You’re welcome Francois Karm. Yes, you can change the focus point with the grip by using the joystick. With a half press of the shutter button on the grip the live view screen will activate, and the center focus point will focus and lock in exposure (assuming use of Aperture or Shutter priority). To change the focus point press the joystick once to the right, left, up or down (moves in 4 directions) and the focal point will move one over. It’s very easy to change the focal point this way with the joystick on the control grip. This is with an XCD lens like the 45P. The number of focal points you can move depend on the size you have chosen for the focal point (another topic) but they focus point can be moved easily to cover a large amount of the image area. I hope this helps.
No need for the joystick to move AF point as it cannot be seen in the OVF. So you have just to tap anywhere with you finger on the live view screen and the AF point is set at this place.
Thanks for this, really helpful. Just one more question that I hope you can help me with: in the video you said half pressing the shutter will result auto focus and lock exposure. If I switch to manual focus, then does half pressing the shutter button on the grip still lock the exposure?
You’re welcome, and interesting question. I wasn’t sure when I read your question. So I tested it. I turned of autofocus by pressing the AF/MF button on the control grip, and confirmed I was only in manual focus (MF). Then I half-pressed the shutter button and saw exposure readings. Note I was in Aperture priority (A) mode and had the aperture on f/8. As I moved the camera around to lighter or darker subjects the aperture stayed at f/8, but I saw different shutter speeds from fractions of a second to multiple seconds. The camera was in manual focus and nothing was in focus but the aperture and shutter speed seemed to update with half press shutter press. There was no physical resistance at the half press point like on other D/SLRs but the exposure was read and I guessed locked in. I took a couple of pictures in manual focus (MF), in Aperture priority (A) and it seemed to lock in the exposure at the half press of the shutter button. I checked the histogram and readings for shutter speed recorded. Conclusion half press of the shutter button in manual focus (MF) on the grip with the Hasselblad 907X with the control grip locked in the exposure. Of course the focus depended on my manually focusing. Interesting question! Now we know! :)
@@TariqsRock thanks for the feedback! The reason I’m asking is the auto focus speed on 907x isn’t that great, so I rely more on manual focusing. The problem I’m facing is the exposure metering. I usually do focus- metering - compose - take shot process. Then within the frame (using aperture priority), the brighter area may return f8 1000th a second; the darker area may return f8 500th a second. I want to bright up the darker area and have a good composition. I’m hoping that I can meter the darker area, half pressing the shutter, camera returns f8 500th second, then move the camera to recompose the shot, while it still remains at f8 500th second. Is that achievable with the grip (and on manual focus)? With the 907 body, the shutter speed will change to 1000th second when I recompose the shot to the brighter area..I also don’t think the shutter on 907 body has half press available. Thanks
@@tl-id5it thanks for explaining in more detail what your process is, your question, and where you’re looking for an improved metering experience. I have been thinking about this fro a few days. I see you prefer to focus, then meter, compose and take the shot in that order. So the questions make more sense. Using your example where you really want to maintain the f8 at 1/500th second exposure reading for the darker area, I have two suggestions for you to consider. First, consider switching to manual exposure. You’ll still get a meter reading when you half press the shutter, but you can select the shutter speed and aperture using the back and front dials on the control grip. I like to do that. Yes it feels different and may not be your preferred method. Maybe try it and see how it works. The second idea is what I like to do most with the control grip, which is I custom programmed the AF-D button to be my AE-L (auto exposure lock). What I do is first decide what in my image I want to meter from. Using your example if it is the darker area at. The f8 500th second, I would point to that area, get the meter reading and then lock in the exposure by pressing the customized button to lock in the exposure. After that no matter where I point the camera the exposure is locked in. Personally the AF-D button is not useful for me. I want my exposure decided and locked in, and then I compose and focus (AF or MF). This way I get my exposure, and the little shifts of a half press no longer concern me. I can then pay attention to focus, composition and timing. I hope that makes sense. I know these suggestions are different than your preferred shooting order and style. Sometimes it’s worth trying it differently and then deciding if it’s good, okay or not. Also, I agree there’s not a true half-press resistance point on the 907X grip, unlike other digital SLRs where you feel a clear half way tactile press. Well I hope this helps give you some ideas. A lot of this also depends on what you’re taking pictures of. If you have more time and can go slowly these suggestions may help. The 907X will never win a fast focus contest, but it might win accurate focus, and much more. Good luck and have fun with it!
@@TariqsRock thanks for the detailed response! I just got the handgrip today as well. Speed up the shooting experience dramatically! Like you suggested, I programmed the play button as AEL to accomplish my shooting process. Thanks again for your help!
@@tl-id5it you’re welcome - and I’m glad to hear you’re enjoying it and that programming the AE-Lock is working for you! The system feels more “complete” with the control grip. It’s still nice to have the option to go lighter without it for some minimalist type photography, such as street photography. Thanks for the update on the improved experience. Enjoy!
I shoot in manual focus on my X1Dii and the AF-D (which you admittedly forgot) is useful for getting focus in the ballpark for manual focusing, especially when using focus zoom instead of the less useful focus peaking. None of the base 907x buttons (the few that there are) are programmable, so if you want a system as customized to your way of shooting, the grip is necessary, especially if you own both the X1Dii and the 907x and want to use muscle memory.
Good observations and examples of how you use the X1Dii. I have not used the X1D system, but what you described with the customizable buttons and ease of use is what I have been hearing from other X1Dii photographers. I felt the 907X system would feel more complete with the control grip. I keep the grip on most of the time and know I can remove it for a few limited situations. These are not many. Since making the video I’m programmed the AF-D as as an exposure lock button, or AE-L. This works well for my shooting style especially when spot metering. With the 45P lens I also autofocus and then manually turn the lens for minor adjustments. I’ve not used the focus zoom much (can choose between 100% and 50% zoom). For me the focus peaking has been a last resort tool and it’s worked okay. From other X1Dii photographers I think they have seemed to prefer the ergonomics or ease of use over the 907X. As I have the 907X and not the X1Dii, I’m fine with it and love the control grip to make it feel more convenient. With a background in 503CW for years, this is easier to adjust to for muscle memory and I enjoy it. Thanks for sharing your insights and experience. The subtle differences between the X1Dii and 907X are useful to understand.
Default configuration of these buttons are for me wrong when you are also a X1D user. But it is possible to customize them, having the same functions on the same buttons as the X1D. So menu button becomes AE-L and browse button becomes AF back button and you can drive the 907x as the X1D I or II
Thanks for sharing these good tips on how to map the buttons on the control grip of the 907X to be more familiar to the X1D system. If you have both systems it makes sense to want a similar behavior to help you work efficiently whichever camera you use. I have the 907X and V system bodies but not the X1D. For me the basic layout of the 4 buttons on the grip are a good and intuitive for use. The only button I didn’t find I would use much is the AF-D because I usually don’t use the AF drive function on other systems. What I do like to use is exposure lock. As you found which button makes sense for you to change for AE-L so it is similar to the X1D for you, I changed the AF-D on the control grip to AE-L. For me this is better on the 907X with the control grip. I can find the “neutral gray” within the image as I compose it, press the customized button (AF-D button changed to AE-L), and keep the exposure in memory. Then I can compose and focus on the main subject with the half press of the shutter button (confirming I see the exposure is locked on the screen) and full press to take the image. The customizable buttons allow good flexibility to personalize the use of the buttons. They are easy to find in the menu and also reset to defaults. Thanks again for the good insight to customize the buttons on the control grip (907X) to make them friendly for X1D photographers!
hi Tariq, I rented the x1d2 and I didn't enjoy having to use the screen to move the Af square. I am so used to having a joystick. The good thing about the x1d2 is being able to use a back button to focus. Is this at all possible with the grip of the 907x? thanks Steve
Hi Steve, The circular shutter button on the control grip of the 907X will autofocus with a half-way press. The full press will record the image after the auto-focus. This is very similar shutter button half and full press behavior that is in most digital SLR cameras. I think this is what you are asking about. The button is on the top of the control grip (seen in the thumbnail of the video, the circle part on the left side). The shutter button focus/shutter is pressed with your right hand index finger. When auto-focus is locked it the focus point will turn green [ ] and beep (if you have the audio on) so you know you have focus lock. Like you, I like using a joystick. Something about the tactile feel makes me feel more connected. The screen on the back of the 907X is very responsive, and would be similar to the camera you rented. I like the control grip a lot. It makes the system feel more complete to me, and I there’s still the option to touch the screen too! So it’s a plus to me. I hope the video and description help. Keep enjoying your journey and creating images! Remember to have fun!
@@TariqsRock Thanks for the response Tariq. Back button focus is where you deactivate the AF from the half press of the shutter and have it assigned to a different button. In this mode the shutter is only used to take the image and the said assigned button will act as the AF. This can be done with the x1d2 and I was hoping it could also be done with the 907x?
@@PROgaming-fm6yu Thanks for clarifying for me. Ok, with the definition of back focus as another button for AF and not the shutter button, that got me curious. So I’m laughing at myself because I reprogrammed the AF-D (Auto Focus Drive) button on the control grip (customized it) to AE-Lock, as that fits my shooting style. So I reprogrammed the AF-D button back to being AF-D and started playing around. Here’s what I found. Pressing the AF-D on the control grip does focus to where you point it to as long as you hold the button down. It gives the same feedback with the green highlight of the focus poin [ ] and the beep as the normal half-way press of the shutter button. I used the AF-D to focus, got focus, released the button, button when I pressed the shutter button (on the grip) it started to auto focus again. Since you don’t want that I experimented. I think I found a way to do this.I presses the AF/MF on the control grip to switch the camera to manual focus. Half press of the shutter button was then disabled. I could manually focus the X lens. Then I tried pressing the AF-D button and it did auto-focus! Then pressing the shutter button took the image. The combination was AF/MF pressed to manual focus, using AF-D to auto-focus, press of shutter button to take exposure. I then checked the focus on the image, and even though it was hand held the focus was sharp. That was really interesting! Thanks for the question. I prefer to shoot in a different way and probably wouldn’t have tried this if you hadn’t asked, Steve. Hopefully, now this answers your question on how you could do it using the control grip on the 907X. Admittedly on regular 35mm style DSLRs the AF button (back focus) for things like sports photography is much faster in focusing. In general the 907X will focus more slowly but tends to get focus sharp. That was interesting. I’ve customized the AF-D button back to AE-L for myself, because I’m used to shooting with a preference on locking in my exposure first, and then focusing. It seems the control grip was designed with autofocus drive in mind and not my preferred AE-L. With the customization, you can reassign any of those four top buttons to many combinations. This was a fun experiment! Enjoy exploring, Steve!
@@PROgaming-fm6yu yes, pressing the “AF/MF” button on the control grip deactivates AF from the shutter. This button toggles control from AF from the shutter button to MF. To switch AF back on for the shutter button, one press of the “AF/MF” button will switch back from manual focus to auto focus control from the shutter button (half press). In MF the shutter button can be used to trip the shutter, or activate the self timer, typically to reduce vibration.
@B LEUNG, yes. I think for the price and value it is worth getting the Hasselblad grip for the 907X. It is light weight and makes holding the camera easy for many shooting positions. These things are simple. More valuable with the grip is it allows more convenience to touch the buttons for controls that are important to photography, in a way that is familiar from other camera bodies. Each of the 4 buttons can be customized making it easier to use. I customized the AF-D button to be an AE-L (exposure lock) as that works better for my slower style. I like the joystick. The grip is not necessary. It is convenient. I leave the grip on the camera all the time, and would only take it off if I needed to go to a smaller setup (camera, lens, digital back), perhaps for some street photography. In one photoshoot and video (Tariq’s Rock VLOG, Hasselblad 907X Biden elected, Washington DC streets) I used the grip and a monopod on the streets of Washington DC while people were celebrating. With many people around, I held on to the grip all the time which felt very secure. The monopod helped also. For one picture (seen at the end of the video of the church), I held the grip and lifted my hand straight up above the crowd to take the picture, and held the monopod close to my chest. For that picture the grip and monopod helped a lot and gave me a good perspective. Without the grip and only the monopod that picture could still work. (Without the grip and monopod, I could not have gotten that picture). So that’s another little experience where I found the grip very valuable. I think the grip is worth the price. Even with the grip, using the touchscreen screen is possible allowing more extra options to get to the settings needed.
@@bleung8323 you’re welcome. I don’t know if I will have the chance to review the XCD 35-70 lens. I would like to and am interested in this lens since I first saw it. It seems it would be a great all around travel lens.
There is “flash sync in” plug and a “flash sync out” on the back of the CFVII 50 C digital back. These plugs are covered by a rubber door that opens with a finger, and they look hidden by the door when the door is up. The plugs are just below the rectangle button on the on/off browse/play button. The camera comes with sync cables in the box. The rest of how to connect a flash system has not been so clear. It seems some third party bracket or brace to hold or attach a flash system (wired or wireless) is needed.
MArtin - what you can do at present is this - the reply from Tariq is spot on bit for one exception - the dedicated optic is detachable from the bracket which comes with it. There is a very small space to add a trigger - I would guard against an actual strobe/flash. I use mine outdoors shooting automotive with Broncolor 1200L's and the small lightweight RFS transmitter - just about hangs on - and I use tape to hold it in place - as a pro this does not bother me too much as so long as we get the shot I don't care what the kit looks like - just what it does and what is in front of it. The 907x is a very sweet thing and because we use it on both a crane and a drone it is super light and matches in perfectly with the H6D colour wise - also Hass have now released an optical adaptor which enhances coverage of the H lenses , shortens the focal length and increases the aperture by 0.86 (??) - which say on a 100mm F2.2 H lens will now become a 65mm F0.79 (??) which is even faster, lighter and smaller than the X series 80mm and 65mm
@@nelsonclub7722 thank you for sharing your wisdom and careful use of the tape with RFS transmitter with the 907X. They did such a good job making this camera small that we have a new challenge with adding flashes and transmitters. It’s good to hear how you’re using the 907X with the crane and drones too. Yes, the XH Converter 0,8 unlocks another level of quality between systems. It’s nice to see a “reverse crop factor” with focal length gained instead of lost. Back to the little plate on the top of the 907X where the bracket for the Optical ViewFinder (OVF) slides in, it is a small space. I enjoy the OVF to preview many images for the 45P and to decide if I want to take a picture or not. The only day I removed the OVF, the attachment arm, and used the “Hasselblad” thin plate on top of the 907X is when I knew I went to Washington, DC to take pictures the day Joe Biden was announced President Elect (November 7, 2020). I was worried the OVF could get caught on my clothing or someone else’s clothing in the crowd of people. Removing the OVF and arm, I used the 907X body, the CFV II 50C, and the control grip (helped a lot securing the camera!), and a monopod (also helped a lot). There was no need for the OVF that day, and the smaller form of the camera felt safer in the crowd. An X1D II would have been preferable for the street photography that day if I’m looking for what could be better, but the 907X worked well. I knew using the Canon 5D mk III would have been more convenient and easier to use and I could get many more pictures. However I wasn’t looking for quantity, I just wanted a few pictures on a Hasselblad to record some history. A small fill flash could have helped, and so I am actively searching for which flash I want and how to attach it. I’ve decided I’ll use a bracket below the camera but I’m still researching what will work best for me. Thanks again, Nelson for sharing everything! Very helpful!
@@TariqsRock HI Tariq I loved your pictures that you took - there were some interesting angles and of course a very poignant moment in world history not just American history. All photographs should tell a story and yours do just that - in years to come these will have more value as those memories and that day become more apparent. THe little X1D also has its place as you say - I have never done 'street' but I would imagine the X1D will give you a composition faster, whereas the 907 will give you more of an 'under cover' type of photography. I really do think that if you seriously looked at anything currently on the market Hasselblad has the most rounded lineup for true artists in photography. I had a Fuji GFX for a while and hated it - far too complex - a camera which put itself in charge of you. HaveI turned this off, have I have left this on? Should I do this or that, and too many menu buttons which in turn give you too many sub menus. THe tilty viewfinder thing was worse than useless, the grip only gave you more buttons to accidentally press which only activated more menus, and the lenses are sharp but the colours are not a patch on Hass. Hass call it ture color - I took a test picture with mine when I got it. A banana, an apple. an orange and a purple coloured plum. Simply stunning rendition. I have a saying: You never regret paying for quality. Have a super day - please give us more videos when you can - I hope this channel is successful for you - all the best - Simon J Miller - (Nelson Club was a tribute to Lord Horatio Nelson)
@@nelsonclub7722 (Simon J Miller) thank you for your kind and thoughtful response. I agree with quality and more. Hasselblad had an add campaign a couple of decades ago that was something to the effect of “Get it right the first time.” I think it had a picture of a Hasselblad. It’s been true for me. In the long run it costs less. I have not used the GFX but I’ve heard comments from several photographers who have the GFX looking more closely at the 907X and H1D II. The balance of knobs and menus is a lot to contend with. The Hasselblad 907X and H1D menus are easier to navigate for me than my Canon 5D (as much as it offers). It feels more organic and analog, the touchscreen. Thank you again for the sentiments of the pictures on the streets of Washington, DC. Over time the stories and pictures gain more significance. I’m grateful to the people I photographed. Each expressed their presence in that moment. I’m glad I chose the Hasselblad 907X over the Canon 5D. About half a dozen photographers talked to me on the street that day about the 907X, each of them pausing to compliment the system. I had to protect the camera a few times from people spraying champagne over each other, having to spin myself around and tuck the camera and monopod into my chest away from the jubilant spray. Over time the memory of the champagne will fade. I hope the pictures will preserve the rest. All the best to you, as well, Simon! We’ll pick up on some more videos soon.
Very nicely explained Tariq. It will be niice to see how you use it with 503SW.
thanks for your video.
can you change the focus point location with the grip ?
You’re welcome Francois Karm. Yes, you can change the focus point with the grip by using the joystick. With a half press of the shutter button on the grip the live view screen will activate, and the center focus point will focus and lock in exposure (assuming use of Aperture or Shutter priority). To change the focus point press the joystick once to the right, left, up or down (moves in 4 directions) and the focal point will move one over. It’s very easy to change the focal point this way with the joystick on the control grip. This is with an XCD lens like the 45P. The number of focal points you can move depend on the size you have chosen for the focal point (another topic) but they focus point can be moved easily to cover a large amount of the image area. I hope this helps.
No need for the joystick to move AF point as it cannot be seen in the OVF.
So you have just to tap anywhere with you finger on the live view screen and the AF point is set at this place.
Thanks for this, really helpful. Just one more question that I hope you can help me with: in the video you said half pressing the shutter will result auto focus and lock exposure. If I switch to manual focus, then does half pressing the shutter button on the grip still lock the exposure?
You’re welcome, and interesting question. I wasn’t sure when I read your question. So I tested it. I turned of autofocus by pressing the AF/MF button on the control grip, and confirmed I was only in manual focus (MF). Then I half-pressed the shutter button and saw exposure readings. Note I was in Aperture priority (A) mode and had the aperture on f/8. As I moved the camera around to lighter or darker subjects the aperture stayed at f/8, but I saw different shutter speeds from fractions of a second to multiple seconds. The camera was in manual focus and nothing was in focus but the aperture and shutter speed seemed to update with half press shutter press. There was no physical resistance at the half press point like on other D/SLRs but the exposure was read and I guessed locked in. I took a couple of pictures in manual focus (MF), in Aperture priority (A) and it seemed to lock in the exposure at the half press of the shutter button. I checked the histogram and readings for shutter speed recorded. Conclusion half press of the shutter button in manual focus (MF) on the grip with the Hasselblad 907X with the control grip locked in the exposure. Of course the focus depended on my manually focusing. Interesting question! Now we know! :)
@@TariqsRock thanks for the feedback! The reason I’m asking is the auto focus speed on 907x isn’t that great, so I rely more on manual focusing.
The problem I’m facing is the exposure metering. I usually do focus- metering - compose - take shot process.
Then within the frame (using aperture priority), the brighter area may return f8 1000th a second; the darker area may return f8 500th a second.
I want to bright up the darker area and have a good composition. I’m hoping that I can meter the darker area, half pressing the shutter, camera returns f8 500th second, then move the camera to recompose the shot, while it still remains at f8 500th second. Is that achievable with the grip (and on manual focus)?
With the 907 body, the shutter speed will change to 1000th second when I recompose the shot to the brighter area..I also don’t think the shutter on 907 body has half press available. Thanks
@@tl-id5it thanks for explaining in more detail what your process is, your question, and where you’re looking for an improved metering experience. I have been thinking about this fro a few days. I see you prefer to focus, then meter, compose and take the shot in that order. So the questions make more sense. Using your example where you really want to maintain the f8 at 1/500th second exposure reading for the darker area, I have two suggestions for you to consider. First, consider switching to manual exposure. You’ll still get a meter reading when you half press the shutter, but you can select the shutter speed and aperture using the back and front dials on the control grip. I like to do that. Yes it feels different and may not be your preferred method. Maybe try it and see how it works. The second idea is what I like to do most with the control grip, which is I custom programmed the AF-D button to be my AE-L (auto exposure lock). What I do is first decide what in my image I want to meter from. Using your example if it is the darker area at. The f8 500th second, I would point to that area, get the meter reading and then lock in the exposure by pressing the customized button to lock in the exposure. After that no matter where I point the camera the exposure is locked in. Personally the AF-D button is not useful for me. I want my exposure decided and locked in, and then I compose and focus (AF or MF). This way I get my exposure, and the little shifts of a half press no longer concern me. I can then pay attention to focus, composition and timing. I hope that makes sense. I know these suggestions are different than your preferred shooting order and style. Sometimes it’s worth trying it differently and then deciding if it’s good, okay or not. Also, I agree there’s not a true half-press resistance point on the 907X grip, unlike other digital SLRs where you feel a clear half way tactile press. Well I hope this helps give you some ideas. A lot of this also depends on what you’re taking pictures of. If you have more time and can go slowly these suggestions may help. The 907X will never win a fast focus contest, but it might win accurate focus, and much more. Good luck and have fun with it!
@@TariqsRock thanks for the detailed response! I just got the handgrip today as well. Speed up the shooting experience dramatically! Like you suggested, I programmed the play button as AEL to accomplish my shooting process. Thanks again for your help!
@@tl-id5it you’re welcome - and I’m glad to hear you’re enjoying it and that programming the AE-Lock is working for you! The system feels more “complete” with the control grip. It’s still nice to have the option to go lighter without it for some minimalist type photography, such as street photography. Thanks for the update on the improved experience. Enjoy!
I shoot in manual focus on my X1Dii and the AF-D (which you admittedly forgot) is useful for getting focus in the ballpark for manual focusing, especially when using focus zoom instead of the less useful focus peaking. None of the base 907x buttons (the few that there are) are programmable, so if you want a system as customized to your way of shooting, the grip is necessary, especially if you own both the X1Dii and the 907x and want to use muscle memory.
Good observations and examples of how you use the X1Dii. I have not used the X1D system, but what you described with the customizable buttons and ease of use is what I have been hearing from other X1Dii photographers. I felt the 907X system would feel more complete with the control grip. I keep the grip on most of the time and know I can remove it for a few limited situations. These are not many. Since making the video I’m programmed the AF-D as as an exposure lock button, or AE-L. This works well for my shooting style especially when spot metering. With the 45P lens I also autofocus and then manually turn the lens for minor adjustments. I’ve not used the focus zoom much (can choose between 100% and 50% zoom). For me the focus peaking has been a last resort tool and it’s worked okay. From other X1Dii photographers I think they have seemed to prefer the ergonomics or ease of use over the 907X. As I have the 907X and not the X1Dii, I’m fine with it and love the control grip to make it feel more convenient. With a background in 503CW for years, this is easier to adjust to for muscle memory and I enjoy it. Thanks for sharing your insights and experience. The subtle differences between the X1Dii and 907X are useful to understand.
Default configuration of these buttons are for me wrong when you are also a X1D user.
But it is possible to customize them, having the same functions on the same buttons as the X1D.
So menu button becomes AE-L and browse button becomes AF back button and you can drive the 907x as the X1D I or II
Thanks for sharing these good tips on how to map the buttons on the control grip of the 907X to be more familiar to the X1D system. If you have both systems it makes sense to want a similar behavior to help you work efficiently whichever camera you use. I have the 907X and V system bodies but not the X1D. For me the basic layout of the 4 buttons on the grip are a good and intuitive for use. The only button I didn’t find I would use much is the AF-D because I usually don’t use the AF drive function on other systems. What I do like to use is exposure lock. As you found which button makes sense for you to change for AE-L so it is similar to the X1D for you, I changed the AF-D on the control grip to AE-L. For me this is better on the 907X with the control grip. I can find the “neutral gray” within the image as I compose it, press the customized button (AF-D button changed to AE-L), and keep the exposure in memory. Then I can compose and focus on the main subject with the half press of the shutter button (confirming I see the exposure is locked on the screen) and full press to take the image. The customizable buttons allow good flexibility to personalize the use of the buttons. They are easy to find in the menu and also reset to defaults. Thanks again for the good insight to customize the buttons on the control grip (907X) to make them friendly for X1D photographers!
hi Tariq, I rented the x1d2 and I didn't enjoy having to use the screen to move the Af square. I am so used to having a joystick. The good thing about the x1d2 is being able to use a back button to focus. Is this at all possible with the grip of the 907x?
thanks
Steve
Hi Steve, The circular shutter button on the control grip of the 907X will autofocus with a half-way press. The full press will record the image after the auto-focus. This is very similar shutter button half and full press behavior that is in most digital SLR cameras. I think this is what you are asking about. The button is on the top of the control grip (seen in the thumbnail of the video, the circle part on the left side). The shutter button focus/shutter is pressed with your right hand index finger. When auto-focus is locked it the focus point will turn green [ ] and beep (if you have the audio on) so you know you have focus lock. Like you, I like using a joystick. Something about the tactile feel makes me feel more connected. The screen on the back of the 907X is very responsive, and would be similar to the camera you rented. I like the control grip a lot. It makes the system feel more complete to me, and I there’s still the option to touch the screen too! So it’s a plus to me. I hope the video and description help. Keep enjoying your journey and creating images! Remember to have fun!
@@TariqsRock Thanks for the response Tariq. Back button focus is where you deactivate the AF from the half press of the shutter and have it assigned to a different button. In this mode the shutter is only used to take the image and the said assigned button will act as the AF. This can be done with the x1d2 and I was hoping it could also be done with the 907x?
@@PROgaming-fm6yu Thanks for clarifying for me. Ok, with the definition of back focus as another button for AF and not the shutter button, that got me curious. So I’m laughing at myself because I reprogrammed the AF-D (Auto Focus Drive) button on the control grip (customized it) to AE-Lock, as that fits my shooting style. So I reprogrammed the AF-D button back to being AF-D and started playing around. Here’s what I found. Pressing the AF-D on the control grip does focus to where you point it to as long as you hold the button down. It gives the same feedback with the green highlight of the focus poin [ ] and the beep as the normal half-way press of the shutter button. I used the AF-D to focus, got focus, released the button, button when I pressed the shutter button (on the grip) it started to auto focus again. Since you don’t want that I experimented. I think I found a way to do this.I presses the AF/MF on the control grip to switch the camera to manual focus. Half press of the shutter button was then disabled. I could manually focus the X lens. Then I tried pressing the AF-D button and it did auto-focus! Then pressing the shutter button took the image. The combination was AF/MF pressed to manual focus, using AF-D to auto-focus, press of shutter button to take exposure. I then checked the focus on the image, and even though it was hand held the focus was sharp. That was really interesting! Thanks for the question. I prefer to shoot in a different way and probably wouldn’t have tried this if you hadn’t asked, Steve. Hopefully, now this answers your question on how you could do it using the control grip on the 907X. Admittedly on regular 35mm style DSLRs the AF button (back focus) for things like sports photography is much faster in focusing. In general the 907X will focus more slowly but tends to get focus sharp. That was interesting. I’ve customized the AF-D button back to AE-L for myself, because I’m used to shooting with a preference on locking in my exposure first, and then focusing. It seems the control grip was designed with autofocus drive in mind and not my preferred AE-L. With the customization, you can reassign any of those four top buttons to many combinations. This was a fun experiment! Enjoy exploring, Steve!
@@TariqsRock is it possible to deactivate the Af from the shutter?
@@PROgaming-fm6yu yes, pressing the “AF/MF” button on the control grip deactivates AF from the shutter. This button toggles control from AF from the shutter button to MF. To switch AF back on for the shutter button, one press of the “AF/MF” button will switch back from manual focus to auto focus control from the shutter button (half press). In MF the shutter button can be used to trip the shutter, or activate the self timer, typically to reduce vibration.
for the price is it worth to get this grip ?
@B LEUNG, yes. I think for the price and value it is worth getting the Hasselblad grip for the 907X. It is light weight and makes holding the camera easy for many shooting positions. These things are simple. More valuable with the grip is it allows more convenience to touch the buttons for controls that are important to photography, in a way that is familiar from other camera bodies. Each of the 4 buttons can be customized making it easier to use. I customized the AF-D button to be an AE-L (exposure lock) as that works better for my slower style. I like the joystick. The grip is not necessary. It is convenient. I leave the grip on the camera all the time, and would only take it off if I needed to go to a smaller setup (camera, lens, digital back), perhaps for some street photography. In one photoshoot and video (Tariq’s Rock VLOG, Hasselblad 907X Biden elected, Washington DC streets) I used the grip and a monopod on the streets of Washington DC while people were celebrating. With many people around, I held on to the grip all the time which felt very secure. The monopod helped also. For one picture (seen at the end of the video of the church), I held the grip and lifted my hand straight up above the crowd to take the picture, and held the monopod close to my chest. For that picture the grip and monopod helped a lot and gave me a good perspective. Without the grip and only the monopod that picture could still work. (Without the grip and monopod, I could not have gotten that picture). So that’s another little experience where I found the grip very valuable. I think the grip is worth the price. Even with the grip, using the touchscreen screen is possible allowing more extra options to get to the settings needed.
@@TariqsRock thx
Will you have a chance to review the xcd 35-70 lens ?
@@bleung8323 you’re welcome. I don’t know if I will have the chance to review the XCD 35-70 lens. I would like to and am interested in this lens since I first saw it. It seems it would be a great all around travel lens.
@@TariqsRock Thx again !
is there a way to hook up flash system
There is “flash sync in” plug and a “flash sync out” on the back of the CFVII 50 C digital back. These plugs are covered by a rubber door that opens with a finger, and they look hidden by the door when the door is up. The plugs are just below the rectangle button on the on/off browse/play button. The camera comes with sync cables in the box. The rest of how to connect a flash system has not been so clear. It seems some third party bracket or brace to hold or attach a flash system (wired or wireless) is needed.
MArtin - what you can do at present is this - the reply from Tariq is spot on bit for one exception - the dedicated optic is detachable from the bracket which comes with it. There is a very small space to add a trigger - I would guard against an actual strobe/flash. I use mine outdoors shooting automotive with Broncolor 1200L's and the small lightweight RFS transmitter - just about hangs on - and I use tape to hold it in place - as a pro this does not bother me too much as so long as we get the shot I don't care what the kit looks like - just what it does and what is in front of it. The 907x is a very sweet thing and because we use it on both a crane and a drone it is super light and matches in perfectly with the H6D colour wise - also Hass have now released an optical adaptor which enhances coverage of the H lenses , shortens the focal length and increases the aperture by 0.86 (??) - which say on a 100mm F2.2 H lens will now become a 65mm F0.79 (??) which is even faster, lighter and smaller than the X series 80mm and 65mm
@@nelsonclub7722 thank you for sharing your wisdom and careful use of the tape with RFS transmitter with the 907X. They did such a good job making this camera small that we have a new challenge with adding flashes and transmitters. It’s good to hear how you’re using the 907X with the crane and drones too. Yes, the XH Converter 0,8 unlocks another level of quality between systems. It’s nice to see a “reverse crop factor” with focal length gained instead of lost. Back to the little plate on the top of the 907X where the bracket for the Optical ViewFinder (OVF) slides in, it is a small space. I enjoy the OVF to preview many images for the 45P and to decide if I want to take a picture or not. The only day I removed the OVF, the attachment arm, and used the “Hasselblad” thin plate on top of the 907X is when I knew I went to Washington, DC to take pictures the day Joe Biden was announced President Elect (November 7, 2020). I was worried the OVF could get caught on my clothing or someone else’s clothing in the crowd of people. Removing the OVF and arm, I used the 907X body, the CFV II 50C, and the control grip (helped a lot securing the camera!), and a monopod (also helped a lot). There was no need for the OVF that day, and the smaller form of the camera felt safer in the crowd. An X1D II would have been preferable for the street photography that day if I’m looking for what could be better, but the 907X worked well. I knew using the Canon 5D mk III would have been more convenient and easier to use and I could get many more pictures. However I wasn’t looking for quantity, I just wanted a few pictures on a Hasselblad to record some history. A small fill flash could have helped, and so I am actively searching for which flash I want and how to attach it. I’ve decided I’ll use a bracket below the camera but I’m still researching what will work best for me. Thanks again, Nelson for sharing everything! Very helpful!
@@TariqsRock HI Tariq I loved your pictures that you took - there were some interesting angles and of course a very poignant moment in world history not just American history. All photographs should tell a story and yours do just that - in years to come these will have more value as those memories and that day become more apparent. THe little X1D also has its place as you say - I have never done 'street' but I would imagine the X1D will give you a composition faster, whereas the 907 will give you more of an 'under cover' type of photography. I really do think that if you seriously looked at anything currently on the market Hasselblad has the most rounded lineup for true artists in photography. I had a Fuji GFX for a while and hated it - far too complex - a camera which put itself in charge of you. HaveI turned this off, have I have left this on? Should I do this or that, and too many menu buttons which in turn give you too many sub menus. THe tilty viewfinder thing was worse than useless, the grip only gave you more buttons to accidentally press which only activated more menus, and the lenses are sharp but the colours are not a patch on Hass. Hass call it ture color - I took a test picture with mine when I got it. A banana, an apple. an orange and a purple coloured plum. Simply stunning rendition. I have a saying: You never regret paying for quality. Have a super day - please give us more videos when you can - I hope this channel is successful for you - all the best - Simon J Miller - (Nelson Club was a tribute to Lord Horatio Nelson)
@@nelsonclub7722 (Simon J Miller) thank you for your kind and thoughtful response. I agree with quality and more. Hasselblad had an add campaign a couple of decades ago that was something to the effect of “Get it right the first time.” I think it had a picture of a Hasselblad. It’s been true for me. In the long run it costs less. I have not used the GFX but I’ve heard comments from several photographers who have the GFX looking more closely at the 907X and H1D II. The balance of knobs and menus is a lot to contend with. The Hasselblad 907X and H1D menus are easier to navigate for me than my Canon 5D (as much as it offers). It feels more organic and analog, the touchscreen. Thank you again for the sentiments of the pictures on the streets of Washington, DC. Over time the stories and pictures gain more significance. I’m grateful to the people I photographed. Each expressed their presence in that moment. I’m glad I chose the Hasselblad 907X over the Canon 5D. About half a dozen photographers talked to me on the street that day about the 907X, each of them pausing to compliment the system. I had to protect the camera a few times from people spraying champagne over each other, having to spin myself around and tuck the camera and monopod into my chest away from the jubilant spray. Over time the memory of the champagne will fade. I hope the pictures will preserve the rest. All the best to you, as well, Simon! We’ll pick up on some more videos soon.