Lovely to see so much attention going to the Hasselblad V system again! The CFVII 50c brings the V system back to life.. :) The Focus Issue: I noticed it immediately too, and was immediately told by a half dozen people that I needed to have my 500CMs adjusted/modified to focus properly with the back. This made no sense to me because I get the same super-crisp focus with my film backs. So I considered the issues and did some experimentation. - Focusing hand-held with the waist level finder produced a great deal of inconsistency shot to shot, and particularly with my Distagon 50mm. The Planar 80 and longer lenses produced less inconsistency. - Putting the camera on a tripod and taking a little more time to set up the focus improved consistency by a significant margin, particular with the 50mm lens. - Fitting the magnifying chimney finder instead of the WL finder improved focusing consistency yet again, both hand-held and on a tripod. My take on this was that the issue is that the digital sensor image plane is in the right position and the mirror/focusing screen are aligned correctly, but that the focusing screens I had were not optimized for best focus with the more critical pixel focus afforded by the digital sensor. Film and digital sensors have different characteristics and see light differently ... with digital sensors, critical focus is MORE critical, to say it simplistically. Then I discovered that Hasselblad included an updated focusing screen with the previous version of the back, the CFV 50c. This focusing screen is the latest surface type, is optimized for use with the digital back, and includes framing scribe lines for the digital sensor's full format (44x33 mm) and square crop (33x33 mm). The "Hasselblad Focusing Screen for CFV-50c Digital Back" MFR-#H-3042264 was available from B&H Photo (albeit requiring a wait because they sell out very quickly): I acquired one and fitted it to one of my 500CM bodies. Immediately, it became apparent that this focusing screen was the key: focus snaps in and out with much greater clarity than with any of my other focusing screens and matches focus when observed via Live View and in exposures afterwards. The split image focus aid helps in quickly getting to the right setting, the fine focus field surrounding it allows clean critical focus as well. The scribed framing lines are accurate and don't occlude the 6x6 film view at all. And it works just as well with the WL finder as it does with the focusing chimney (or a prism finder). I immediately ordered a second one so now my 1978-1979 era 500CM bodies are equipped properly for the digital back's focusing needs ... and the same screen allows me to obtain just as excellent a focus for my shots with the film backs. I'm happy. I also acquired a Hasselblad A16 back to use when shooting film and digital in the same session. Having the same framing proportions as the digital back, it's a bit easier to get the same framing on both by extrapolating the framing lines to the vertical edges of the screen, and the difference between the two recording media in FoV terms is much smaller. It makes for an easier "shoot film and digital together" session. :D
I can only echo your findings and solution. I came to the same analysis (that focus seems to be simply more critical on the sensor and hence easier missed) and have resolved it with the new screen. Whilst I understand that screen 3042264 is no longer produced I was able to find one in the web a few months ago at list price. Anyway I understand that the Acute Matte D 42215 identical (apart from the 33x44 marks, which can draw oneself with a waterproof felt pen)
Sam, now that you have the 500 series Hasselblad to pair the CFV II 50C digital back with, please continue to produce more videos like this! Don’t stop!
If you like the 500 CM you’re gonna go nuts if you use an ELM which is what I’ve been using for 30 years on all my catalog shoots it winds on automatically but if you’re worried about framing just cut a little piece of black cardboard and stick it in the viewfinder for your crop!
BTW focus being off is a known issue when pairing the digital back to the 500 series hasselblad bodies. Hasselblad offers a calibration service so that both film and digital images can be equally sharp.
Ok, so I presume there is a way to shift the sensor in the 50c digital back both forward and backwards to adjust to match the film plane. Maybe the next version will make this user adjustable like modern AF microadjustments on digital cameras!
@@bthemedia that's a different thing: that shifts the autofocus control, not the sensor plane.
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The digital sensor surface area looks to be 1/3 size of 6x6cm. Digital backs have been 20 years in development. It will probably take another 20 to get full 6x6 digital back.
I wish I would have commented the day of but… I was a fledgling photographer during the pandemic (still am), playing on my Ricoh GRIII daily until I came across this video. I’d just seen Platon on an episode of Abstract Art on Netflix-and that shutter sound was echoing through my head. I knew Hasselblad was in my future, but then you pulled out the 2nd back and I salivated. I watched this video at least once a month for a year-as I combed EBay. I found a 500C in good condition and boom…as soon as she arrived while I unboxed you know what I had on in the back ground-cause the music just hit different. Now fast forward another year and I found a 907x Mint that needed a home-when she arrived you already know what was playing. MEMEME ME MEEEE! I love it-it’s been a wild ride with both backs and I want to thank you for the inspiration to shimmy into the world of (portrait) photography, you’re influence has been there every step of the way. And just today I found you’ve got a follow up video of the past year with this set up. I can’t wait.
Yo! Woh! This was a great comment. Thank you for the story. That episode of Art Of Design was life changing for me. I rewatching occasionally to re-inspire myself. Let’s talk more about it!
the back simply replaces the film and uses the built-in shutter. The electronic shutter in 907x is not usable for anything except photographing mountains ;-) (my personal opinion)
How are your thoughts after using this set up for a few years? I keep coming back to this video and each time feeling more inspired and feeling this is the creative way forward for me. Thanks!
I like very much your videos on the digital back. I came from a 503CW and Phase One p20 10 years ago and ended up shooting with X1D 50c today. Gosh I miss the 503CW and a digital back.... How do you get the film simulations? Are them presets? Could you please share?
Would love to see the detailed functional operation differences between using the digital back vs the film back. With the CFV II on your 501c, can you still use the CFV screen for focus confirmation? @3:50 I was suspicious of soft focus / misalignment from the WLF in difference between film vs digital sensor plane, does it clear up at f8-16 or so?
Absolutely fascinating video, had no idea that kind of film backs even existed. Are the film simulations for digital supplied by Hasselblad like the fuji simulations?
Roberto Garganta Go for it. It’s great, If you have a 60mm lens it will be something like a “normal” field of view wih the crop factor. I love the results i got out of mine. I do not see any issue with focusing (my 503CW seems well enough aligned.) Forget about verticals, unless you really want to torture yourself :D
@@robertogarganta I'm using it with the 80mm lens and the results are really good but the focus is not perfectly calibrated. If I shoot F5.6 or F8 it is not a problem. this is by far the best digital back for a hasselblad v system I have tried. I have the CW winder so shooting vertical is not a problem.
“Elevated experience of picture taking” that’s exactly it. One needs some skill to pull it off and I think a lot of beginners get frustrated. But it’s a uniquely fun experience once learns how to properly use a Hasselblad. I am getting this 907x for my 500CM
Sam, very quickly, the relative “thickness” focus plane of a digital sensor is practically zero where as film has tremendous latitude. You need to recalibrate - it’s called shimming - your optical viewfinder to perfectly match your digital sensor. The film back will be fine
Any example videos of this online or need to send to Hasselblad? Can do front/back focus correction on digital cameras... but shimming the WLF ground glass can only go one direction.
Shimming the viewfinder for digital would throw the film back off. If you want to use both film and digital on this camera, the digital back has to be adjusted because the camera is already perfectly calibrated.
I have the same maddening issue - pin sharp film but when using the digital back it’s off slightly soft... shimming only works upwards and I needed lower so I tried flipping the screen upside down and in the end just adjust my focus “off” slightly to be in focus.
Insanely good stuff. Pictures looks unreal, escpecially on film. Just got to know about the 907x and your channel over the weekend. This Video was the climax to the Impression i got from the digital back on a Film camera idea
I have the 50c back on a 503cw. Perfectly sharp. I also have a matte glass with a line where the digital frame dimensions are visible, but also everything around it (6x6). Are those film emulations a new feature or just you? ;)
The new digital lenses are really expensive. How do you think a 45P would work out on this as the only lens for general purpose? Walk about, street, portrait.
One question: scratching a negative causes "white" scratches on the negative, meaning you will get black lines in the print!? I've had those kind of stripes too on Tri-X and it turned out it was a production failiure - too much emulsion on the negative... Maybee I'm wrong, but I asume, you didn't scratch it biut the film was defect!? Would be interresting, if I'm right ...
No, that doesn't make sense. Dust blocks light, so you'll have white spots on the print. Sure! But a scratch makes the negative more transparent, so you will see a darker or black stripe on the (positive) print. I've just scratches an old negative and prooved that. Check your negatives: there MUST be dark stripes that result in white lines in the print. Theses dark stripes in the negative CANNOT be scratches, these are failiures in production or a long hair :-))) Check it out with a magnifier: your negatives will not show marks of scratches! You didn't mess them up, it is a common problem with Tri-X!!!
I just watched the video and was thinking of the digital pictures and that you used Film simulations. They locked really good especially the Porta 160 and the TriX. Did you do them your self or did you found them on the internet :)
Interesting video Sam! May I ask and would you like to tell me which software and film simulations you used for the digital files? Thanks in advance and creative greetings, Alain
The numbers. We can use the diagonals to find crop factor. 67 film: 89mm, 6x6 film: 79mm, 645 film: 71mm, most MF digital: 55mm (47mm square), full frame: 43mm (40mm 4:3 & 34mm square). If we look at the HB 80mm lens. On FF cropped square you would need a 35mm lens for similar angle of view. With the digital back cropped to square you would need 50mm lens. Using the 80mm lens on the digital back cropped to square would be like using a 135mm lens on 6x6 film. If you don't crop the digital back but crop the 6x6 film to 645 (4:3 ratio) the 80mm lens works on the digital back as a 105mm lens on 6x6 film ( 45mm on FF cropped to same (4:3) ratio).
As someone said you can calibrate the camera, or film back?, to fix focus. The focus is also much more critical on digital than film, which could be the problem. Based on the sound of the camera when you were winding it Ill say you need to hand it in for service anyway ;). I second what someone else mentioned; the music is a bit much...
Yes, the issue is he doe does not want to miss the focus with film. If you shoot film, probably you know how it goes: one shoot a bunch of session and the brain learn to adjust for the focus, if it's always in the same direction (back focus or front focus). A better solution is to by and used H, or sale a kitney your liver and do 10 years of extra hours and buy the Phase One. This is how it looks with the H: th-cam.com/video/gBvR9NdjYzU/w-d-xo.html . , I can assure you that once one looks the world to the viewfinder of the H with a fast lens. (in my case the. 100mm f2.2) one never forgets it.
I really like this....;.a lot!!! So if I want to shoot a roll of black and white film, I can do that. But if I need to go digital, I can do that as well. And by the way, I like the iconic design of the Hasselblad. And I also like the Iconic design of the 35mm before digital. When digital first came out, I wasn't too sure if I would like it. But I do like digital. However, there's something about shooting and developing a beautiful black and white photograph. You know this guy......Ansel Adams. And the 50 megapix back, great!!!!!! So I can shoot in total digital, in digital simulating film with the grain if I want, or just film. What can be better? And the camera has a great iconic design.
Honestly. I’d go for it. They’re going that way. ARRI shoved two vertically oriented super35 sensors together and that’s how we got “Open Gate”. That’s almost square.
Idea is seductive, but what can move me to purchase a 50 mp Hasselblad back for insane price , when I have Sony A7R2 42 mp full frame and unlimited number of lenses fitted on it? Besides, I have 500C in chrome with three lenses for 35 years and will be glad to have something reasonable priced and 6x6 on it in future. But it is not here yet.
Doesn't this back steal business from their H-series 50 back? And if that doesn't worry them, will they make a 100mp version? Unlike all the "medium format" cameras out there now, this is a back unobstructed by a lens-mount, and mounts well to a view camera (Linhof makes a back for it); give Phase One and Leaf a run for their money, for less money! By the way, where'd you get an all black back; is this the previous 907x special? The current Cfv 50c II is always shown with chrome trim.
What images did you end up using, film or digital? Or a mix.. When I shoot both I almost always go for the film shots, so I probably won't get a digital back because of that.
On a Hasselblad, the winder doesn't just wind the film but it also recocks the shutter in the camera lens so yes, to take another photo, one would have to still crank the winder to reset the in-lens shutter.
I really like the design and performance of the Hasselblad sensor despite the crop factor. I really think it would be cool to have a similar setup for 35mm cameras where it would offer a full-frame high megapixel sensor in a compact design. Unfortunately, the current digital backs for 35mm cameras have a crappy sensor with an unwieldy digital back which looks like an oversized motor drive.
wow that's like a baby sensor compared to the film size!!! when can they make one that is the same size ? like you said there is the crop factor is the issue well when can they make one that's not cropped I know they can do it.
They are prohibited by price!!! Life's a compromise find the one that effects you the least!" Rodney Smith will educate you on the virtue of film sadly he is no more but his legacy is! Check him out!
@Pete Melon technical superior images in the sense of a scientific achievement agreed! A more pertinent question is do you prefer oil or water paint!! Film beasts digital hands down but its resolution is no comparison
@Pete Melon :) it's good we can have different opinions isn't it!? My Z7 is reserved for enlarging images for prints! An amazing scientific instrument it is. If Rodney Smith were still amungst us I am certain he would probably agree with me. But a difference of opinion is a beautiful thing so long the end result wreaks no havoc! I bid you good day sir :)
Great video, and Allen Stone?..solid! That being said, I have a Mamiya 645AFD which I just placed a Mamiya ZD digi back on. Now, I'm aware that the ZD back is a "much lower end" back, so I expected that some of my images would be "under par". However, the main issue I seem to be having is that my focus is just a little off with the digital back on, definitely a little soft, whereas with my film back, it's razor sharp! I mean, withy film back, you can literally see "split ends" in someone's hair if they're sitting like 3 ft from me across the table at a restaurant. So,...while I'm NOT glad that you're getting those type of results, I "am" relieved to know that it's not just singular phenomena with my digi' back, and that what I'm going through right now may not be totally unique. And while I do plan to get a Leaf Aptus, Credo 50 (or other higher end back), in the future, I'm wondering if I'm going to have the same issue. I will shoot the same shot and subject simultaneously with my Nikon D4, and the images are just "scalpel sharp!", As are my film images out of the same 645. Anyway, I wanted to share this with you since I saw your video. I hadn't noticed how long ago this video was posted so hopefully it wasn't too long ago but I would love to hear any feedback you have. Thanks again! bencruz@bencruzphoto.com
I believe it's a fake feeling. X series back is not suitable for 6x6 camera like 503cw or 501cm. Definitely, because of size sensor H series back (it's not on the table yet) is the right one.
This is a really well made video. The framing of each shot, the grade, the comparison. I really everything about this. It’s a shame its the last upload on your channel. You should consider uploading more just for fun. I wonder why you stopped uploading but whatever the reasoning you should pick it back up for fun
I've been watching your videos of your 907x adventures and it's been very interesting. I'm wondering if anyone will come up with an adaptor for the native V system lenses that will act as a focal reducer for the digital back on the V system? That would be interesting and not only allow you to retain pretty much all the framing with no cropping....but you'd also gain about a stop of light on each lens. If I might offer a little constructive criticism....the music on this video. Parts of it were very annoying especially at the beginning, the music should be a compliment to the video, and not stand out so much. You're a film maker and know this, but maybe give it a bit more thought on next one. Anyway, been enjoying your videos...I have a V System camera and am considering getting the 907x. I recently got a Fuji Film GFX100 and need to pay that off and use it a bit first, but I see the Hassy 907 system in my future after that, if for nothing else just the fun of hooking it to my 501 CM like you did and switching film/digital. Please update if you get the Hassy adjustments to allow you to shoot as sharply on film as digital!! Good luck, stay safe!! CC
If you don’t take thousands of frames on your shoots. If you enjoy working in the darkroom or don’t mind scanning film. The medium format film camera simply has a special look to it that digital doesn’t.
@Pete Melon I shoot digital and film up to 4x5. I have been to galleries around the world with the most famous photographers work on display. I know what I am talking about child.
Insane prices. I have a feeling this is novelty. For people who already own so much equipment and have the money to spend. I guess with 5700$ you could buy a Fuji digital medium format and keep a lot of change. Writing that while I got a Hassy myself..
Lovely comparison! Unfortunately, for me personally, the choice of music is absolutely atrocious and unbearable, I could hardly focus on the images and your words because of overstimulation, which is a shame for your nice storytelling. Sick shots though!
It’s nuts how much negative “real estate” the digital back gives up…compared to the 6x6/film. I mean…that’s WHY I bought into the system in 1984….😂. If a true FF/sq. Sensor back was available, I’d probably make the plunge…for fun sake, not practicality. (Ive got 36-45mp DSLRs for that).
why are so many camera gear videos so nonchalant about how expensive this stuff is? That digital back runs between $3 to 5K. No mention of that fact whatsoever.
I also recommend not buying any of this and just using what you have already. The value of “expensive” gear is a factor that will change for a person over time, today this might seem expensive, but after years in a photography career, this camera price tag may seem very typical.
@@SamMcGhee yeah i guess you are right. i just feel like people should be more upfront about the price of gear when doing a review of the gear. Like, you should definitely mention how much the gear costs if you are doing a review of it. Whether you think it's typical or not.
not a word about the comparison of the digital back vs the film back........youtube photographers are in aself centered lala land for clicks and attention.
Camera is fine , its your eye and workflow that does the focus , does it same as for Film but its not same , there is a slight difference , Sensor is a bit further in. So when you swap like that , you get accidental film focusing , when you indeed need to configure it for Digital back , its not the same . And im pretty sure in User manual it says so . Sensors work differently they are layered so its impossible to be like film , a flat sheet . Its a small difference . What you do , is go in to live view , focus digitally , there you go spot on . Or maybe there is a shift , focus shift mechanism in there , like on other cameras with Diopter , so it can adopt a bit , but i dont know i dont have that camera. Nor do i believe in what you told . There is absolutely no difference using it with Film or Digital back . Other then one is analog and the other is digital . Its like an Effect put on the image . One gives that ,other gives this . There is no better here . Depends on what kind of image you are taking , but if you are good in your craft , there wont be any difference , i mean you will adapt , and figure it out . And you can do the same with any old camera , the Tool does not make an artist , Artist makes the art with tools he has . So be it digital , or film , picture or video . its you . Fun is Fun , but its not Fun making Art , it takes time , its work , yeah maybe you like it today , sucks tomorrow . things are like that . And most artists whos pictures i like , had basic cameras . its not about having a big camera , actually you need it small , and compact ,so that you can take it anywhere . And if you developed your style , its a fixed lens , no zooms . Because you already know what you will take pictures of . That is what pros do . Small Camera , fixed lens to their needs and there you go . That camera is for studio work , im sorry to tell you but its for those Trash magazine style images , most trashy photographers use it , sell it if you want the world to notice . That is a mediocre photographers tool , not even that , its below , just above amateur . And im not saying it to hurt your filling , i know the feeling , i have cameras ,you think bigger better , more expensive makes better art , but no , just doesn't work that way ..Camera needs to be invisible , to get out of the way , that one with its winding and what not is not . Only for Nature and geography , something big and still . There it can be used . Or in studio for studio work , or make a YT video of it .
A. Super in-depth. I appreciate it. The intentionality is very palpable. B. Agreed with the title conflict. It’s hard to figure out something catchy that’s real.
Lovely to see so much attention going to the Hasselblad V system again! The CFVII 50c brings the V system back to life.. :)
The Focus Issue: I noticed it immediately too, and was immediately told by a half dozen people that I needed to have my 500CMs adjusted/modified to focus properly with the back. This made no sense to me because I get the same super-crisp focus with my film backs. So I considered the issues and did some experimentation.
- Focusing hand-held with the waist level finder produced a great deal of inconsistency shot to shot, and particularly with my Distagon 50mm. The Planar 80 and longer lenses produced less inconsistency.
- Putting the camera on a tripod and taking a little more time to set up the focus improved consistency by a significant margin, particular with the 50mm lens.
- Fitting the magnifying chimney finder instead of the WL finder improved focusing consistency yet again, both hand-held and on a tripod.
My take on this was that the issue is that the digital sensor image plane is in the right position and the mirror/focusing screen are aligned correctly, but that the focusing screens I had were not optimized for best focus with the more critical pixel focus afforded by the digital sensor. Film and digital sensors have different characteristics and see light differently ... with digital sensors, critical focus is MORE critical, to say it simplistically. Then I discovered that Hasselblad included an updated focusing screen with the previous version of the back, the CFV 50c. This focusing screen is the latest surface type, is optimized for use with the digital back, and includes framing scribe lines for the digital sensor's full format (44x33 mm) and square crop (33x33 mm). The "Hasselblad Focusing Screen for CFV-50c Digital Back" MFR-#H-3042264 was available from B&H Photo (albeit requiring a wait because they sell out very quickly): I acquired one and fitted it to one of my 500CM bodies.
Immediately, it became apparent that this focusing screen was the key: focus snaps in and out with much greater clarity than with any of my other focusing screens and matches focus when observed via Live View and in exposures afterwards. The split image focus aid helps in quickly getting to the right setting, the fine focus field surrounding it allows clean critical focus as well. The scribed framing lines are accurate and don't occlude the 6x6 film view at all. And it works just as well with the WL finder as it does with the focusing chimney (or a prism finder). I immediately ordered a second one so now my 1978-1979 era 500CM bodies are equipped properly for the digital back's focusing needs ... and the same screen allows me to obtain just as excellent a focus for my shots with the film backs. I'm happy.
I also acquired a Hasselblad A16 back to use when shooting film and digital in the same session. Having the same framing proportions as the digital back, it's a bit easier to get the same framing on both by extrapolating the framing lines to the vertical edges of the screen, and the difference between the two recording media in FoV terms is much smaller. It makes for an easier "shoot film and digital together" session. :D
Looks like the screen is no longer produced. Wonder how people get critical focus now?
str8 off the bat,no problems with mine,shooting 500c/m & 2000FCM....yr2023.
I can only echo your findings and solution. I came to the same analysis (that focus seems to be simply more critical on the sensor and hence easier missed) and have resolved it with the new screen. Whilst I understand that screen 3042264 is no longer produced I was able to find one in the web a few months ago at list price. Anyway I understand that the Acute Matte D 42215 identical (apart from the 33x44 marks, which can draw oneself with a waterproof felt pen)
Sam, now that you have the 500 series Hasselblad to pair the CFV II 50C digital back with, please continue to produce more videos like this! Don’t stop!
You made me fall deeply in love with this setup and then I saw this video was shot on an Arri Mini LF...
If you like the 500 CM you’re gonna go nuts if you use an ELM which is what I’ve been using for 30 years on all my catalog shoots it winds on automatically but if you’re worried about framing just cut a little piece of black cardboard and stick it in the viewfinder for your crop!
BTW focus being off is a known issue when pairing the digital back to the 500 series hasselblad bodies. Hasselblad offers a calibration service so that both film and digital images can be equally sharp.
I do not have that problem? But maybe mine was already calibrated.
They make both "equally sharp" ... by making the digital "more sharp" and the film "less sharp"?
Ok, so I presume there is a way to shift the sensor in the 50c digital back both forward and backwards to adjust to match the film plane. Maybe the next version will make this user adjustable like modern AF microadjustments on digital cameras!
For reference, Canon 50D had AF microadjustments for users back in 2008.
@@bthemedia that's a different thing: that shifts the autofocus control, not the sensor plane.
The digital sensor surface area looks to be 1/3 size of 6x6cm. Digital backs have been 20 years in development. It will probably take another 20 to get full 6x6 digital back.
I hope someday hasselblad starts to make again the hasselblad 501cm and new modern lenses for this camera, new film holders and all the stuff
That would be so badass.
I wish I would have commented the day of but… I was a fledgling photographer during the pandemic (still am), playing on my Ricoh GRIII daily until I came across this video. I’d just seen Platon on an episode of Abstract Art on Netflix-and that shutter sound was echoing through my head. I knew Hasselblad was in my future, but then you pulled out the 2nd back and I salivated. I watched this video at least once a month for a year-as I combed EBay.
I found a 500C in good condition and boom…as soon as she arrived while I unboxed you know what I had on in the back ground-cause the music just hit different.
Now fast forward another year and I found a 907x Mint that needed a home-when she arrived you already know what was playing.
MEMEME ME MEEEE!
I love it-it’s been a wild ride with both backs and I want to thank you for the inspiration to shimmy into the world of (portrait) photography, you’re influence has been there every step of the way. And just today I found you’ve got a follow up video of the past year with this set up. I can’t wait.
Yo! Woh! This was a great comment. Thank you for the story. That episode of Art Of Design was life changing for me. I rewatching occasionally to re-inspire myself. Let’s talk more about it!
Assuming the back needs to use the electronic shutter, do you notice any rolling shutter issues? Seems like most of this stuff was stationary though.
the back simply replaces the film and uses the built-in shutter. The electronic shutter in 907x is not usable for anything except photographing mountains ;-) (my personal opinion)
So much texture in your videos, I love it, and the music was perfect contrast with the old-new technologies playing together. Superb.
I´m using a Phase One p25 on the Hasselblad. Never had any Fokus Issues. Have to check again now :) Great Video.
you are the best and most fun filled Photography enthusiast creator out there period.
You are the best and most thoughtful commenter on here period.
How are your thoughts after using this set up for a few years? I keep coming back to this video and each time feeling more inspired and feeling this is the creative way forward for me. Thanks!
Check out my recent video for an update!
I like very much your videos on the digital back. I came from a 503CW and Phase One p20 10 years ago and ended up shooting with X1D 50c today. Gosh I miss the 503CW and a digital back.... How do you get the film simulations? Are them
presets? Could you please share?
Would love to see the detailed functional operation differences between using the digital back vs the film back. With the CFV II on your 501c, can you still use the CFV screen for focus confirmation? @3:50 I was suspicious of soft focus / misalignment from the WLF in difference between film vs digital sensor plane, does it clear up at f8-16 or so?
Absolutely fascinating video, had no idea that kind of film backs even existed. Are the film simulations for digital supplied by Hasselblad like the fuji simulations?
I would like to know this too!
Thank you for sharing your experience. I did not know that digital back has some focus problem.
Lovely video, beautiful stills.
Enjoyed every second of this!
I got the Standard edition (chrome) and started using it with my 503cw. It's not as sharp as the native xcd lenses but I love it
I have a 503cw and im thinking to buy a 907 digital back. Do you recommend? What about shoot in vertical? Are you happy with the results? Thanks🙏🏼
Roberto Garganta Go for it. It’s great, If you have a 60mm lens it will be something like a “normal” field of view wih the crop factor. I love the results i got out of mine. I do not see any issue with focusing (my 503CW seems well enough aligned.) Forget about verticals, unless you really want to torture yourself :D
@@robertogarganta I'm using it with the 80mm lens and the results are really good but the focus is not perfectly calibrated. If I shoot F5.6 or F8 it is not a problem. this is by far the best digital back for a hasselblad v system I have tried. I have the CW winder so shooting vertical is not a problem.
Very cool! I do the same with the Mamiya RZ67 with a Phase One back. The focus shouldn't be off. Did you end up fixing it?
Still working on it. I think it’s my 500 camera.
“Elevated experience of picture taking” that’s exactly it. One needs some skill to pull it off and I think a lot of beginners get frustrated. But it’s a uniquely fun experience once learns how to properly use a Hasselblad.
I am getting this 907x for my 500CM
Sam, very quickly, the relative “thickness” focus plane of a digital sensor is practically zero where as film has tremendous latitude. You need to recalibrate - it’s called shimming - your optical viewfinder to perfectly match your digital sensor. The film back will be fine
Any example videos of this online or need to send to Hasselblad? Can do front/back focus correction on digital cameras... but shimming the WLF ground glass can only go one direction.
Shimming the viewfinder for digital would throw the film back off. If you want to use both film and digital on this camera, the digital back has to be adjusted because the camera is already perfectly calibrated.
I have the same maddening issue - pin sharp film but when using the digital back it’s off slightly soft... shimming only works upwards and I needed lower so I tried flipping the screen upside down and in the end just adjust my focus “off” slightly to be in focus.
@@kurtschmidt3440 not an ideal solution 🙁
The fact that it seems you stayed in the same spot for most of the comparison shots makes it super helpful to visualize the crop factor- thanks!
Insanely good stuff. Pictures looks unreal, escpecially on film. Just got to know about the 907x and your channel over the weekend. This Video was the climax to the Impression i got from the digital back on a Film camera idea
Hi! love your content on 907x. May I ask which emulation/presets you use for film emulations? thank you!
VSCO. Friggin discontinued. They are the best. I heard verygoodpresets.com is a good alternative.
I have the 50c back on a 503cw. Perfectly sharp. I also have a matte glass with a line where the digital frame dimensions are visible, but also everything around it (6x6). Are those film emulations a new feature or just you? ;)
I thought you couldn’t top the last video, but you did. Thanks 🙏🏼
love song, can anyone tell me name plz
Where could one possibly go when one has an Alexa Mini LF for TH-cam? A Hasselblad for Instagram, of course!
Nice. So the only thing that matters is the image.... do you prefer the film image more?
Hi Have you tried to use film back on 907X body. then if so, how did you advanced the film?
try shooting in live view to nail focus
The new digital lenses are really expensive. How do you think a 45P would work out on this as the only lens for general purpose? Walk about, street, portrait.
Hi Sam, I also have a back focussing issue with my C/M. Did you fix the issue? any tips?
great video and AMAZING shots, well done Sam! I really wish we get to see more videos from you in the future!
Attempting to make this happen. 🤘🏻😅
One question: scratching a negative causes "white" scratches on the negative, meaning you will get black lines in the print!? I've had those kind of stripes too on Tri-X and it turned out it was a production failiure - too much emulsion on the negative... Maybee I'm wrong, but I asume, you didn't scratch it biut the film was defect!? Would be interresting, if I'm right ...
No, that doesn't make sense. Dust blocks light, so you'll have white spots on the print. Sure! But a scratch makes the negative more transparent, so you will see a darker or black stripe on the (positive) print. I've just scratches an old negative and prooved that. Check your negatives: there MUST be dark stripes that result in white lines in the print. Theses dark stripes in the negative CANNOT be scratches, these are failiures in production or a long hair :-))) Check it out with a magnifier: your negatives will not show marks of scratches! You didn't mess them up, it is a common problem with Tri-X!!!
Man I want that setup so bad...
I want this, but that focusing issue would be a real issue for me. Can you share your solutions, work around?
I just watched the video and was thinking of the digital pictures and that you used Film simulations. They locked really good especially the Porta 160 and the TriX. Did you do them your self or did you found them on the internet :)
Which other film cameras can you get digital backs for ?
Epic intro!!!
Interesting video Sam! May I ask and would you like to tell me which software and film simulations you used for the digital files? Thanks in advance and creative greetings, Alain
that hip hop music was nice. thx for not using the same vlogger music that everyone uses. btw, what did you use to emulate Tri-X on the digital?
Song name?
I enjoyed this comparison but what I would have liked to see it shot with chromes instead of Porta.
The numbers. We can use the diagonals to find crop factor. 67 film: 89mm, 6x6 film: 79mm, 645 film: 71mm, most MF digital: 55mm (47mm square), full frame: 43mm (40mm 4:3 & 34mm square). If we look at the HB 80mm lens. On FF cropped square you would need a 35mm lens for similar angle of view. With the digital back cropped to square you would need 50mm lens. Using the 80mm lens on the digital back cropped to square would be like using a 135mm lens on 6x6 film. If you don't crop the digital back but crop the 6x6 film to 645 (4:3 ratio) the 80mm lens works on the digital back as a 105mm lens on 6x6 film ( 45mm on FF cropped to same (4:3) ratio).
As someone said you can calibrate the camera, or film back?, to fix focus. The focus is also much more critical on digital than film, which could be the problem. Based on the sound of the camera when you were winding it Ill say you need to hand it in for service anyway ;). I second what someone else mentioned; the music is a bit much...
Yes, the issue is he doe does not want to miss the focus with film. If you shoot film, probably you know how it goes: one shoot a bunch of session and the brain learn to adjust for the focus, if it's always in the same direction (back focus or front focus). A better solution is to by and used H, or sale a kitney your liver and do 10 years of extra hours and buy the Phase One. This is how it looks with the H: th-cam.com/video/gBvR9NdjYzU/w-d-xo.html . , I can assure you that once one looks the world to the viewfinder of the H with a fast lens. (in my case the. 100mm f2.2) one never forgets it.
I really like this....;.a lot!!! So if I want to shoot a roll of black and white film, I can do that. But if I need to go digital, I can do that as well. And by the way, I like the iconic design of the Hasselblad. And I also like the Iconic design of the 35mm before digital.
When digital first came out, I wasn't too sure if I would like it. But I do like digital. However, there's something about shooting and developing a beautiful black and white photograph. You know this guy......Ansel Adams.
And the 50 megapix back, great!!!!!! So I can shoot in total digital, in digital simulating film with the grain if I want, or just film. What can be better? And the camera has a great iconic design.
It baffles me why none of the sensors come square format
Honestly. I’d go for it. They’re going that way. ARRI shoved two vertically oriented super35 sensors together and that’s how we got “Open Gate”. That’s almost square.
Idea is seductive, but what can move me to purchase a 50 mp Hasselblad back for insane price , when I have Sony A7R2 42 mp full frame and unlimited number of lenses fitted on it? Besides, I have 500C in chrome with three lenses for 35 years and will be glad to have something reasonable priced and 6x6 on it in future. But it is not here yet.
Question with the x-v adapter are the old v lenses good or look like film ?
Old lenses are so good.
insanely good video, and not the typical lo-fi stuff like the other analogue film channels.
Doesn't this back steal business from their H-series 50 back? And if that doesn't worry them, will they make a 100mp version? Unlike all the "medium format" cameras out there now, this is a back unobstructed by a lens-mount, and mounts well to a view camera (Linhof makes a back for it); give Phase One and Leaf a run for their money, for less money! By the way, where'd you get an all black back; is this the previous 907x special? The current Cfv 50c II is always shown with chrome trim.
How much was the digital back ?
How did you get those film simulations in the digital back? Thanks
I’m using VSCO in Lightroom. But they’re long gone. Much like this comment from 2 years ago!
What images did you end up using, film or digital? Or a mix.. When I shoot both I almost always go for the film shots, so I probably won't get a digital back because of that.
Mix. For sure. I lean toward film every time though.
do you have to wind the camera when shooting digital? Or is that just a part of your rhythm?
On a Hasselblad, the winder doesn't just wind the film but it also recocks the shutter in the camera lens so yes, to take another photo, one would have to still crank the winder to reset the in-lens shutter.
the Hasselblad 501c measured to be sharp with film back precise measurment. I think Hasselblad forgot about it.
Dude I had no idea this thing existed!! Time to max out my credit card
Are you able to just buy the back yet? I don't want to buy the whole small body and lenses. I have a 500cm with two lenses.
I really like the design and performance of the Hasselblad sensor despite the crop factor. I really think it would be cool to have a similar setup for 35mm cameras where it would offer a full-frame high megapixel sensor in a compact design. Unfortunately, the current digital backs for 35mm cameras have a crappy sensor with an unwieldy digital back which looks like an oversized motor drive.
Might have found the most underrated film channel on this entire platform👀 great video!
wow that's like a baby sensor compared to the film size!!! when can they make one that is the same size ? like you said there is the crop factor is the issue well when can they make one that's not cropped I know they can do it.
They are prohibited by price!!! Life's a compromise find the one that effects you the least!"
Rodney Smith will educate you on the virtue of film sadly he is no more but his legacy is! Check him out!
@Pete Melon technical superior images in the sense of a scientific achievement agreed!
A more pertinent question is do you prefer oil or water paint!!
Film beasts digital hands down but its resolution is no comparison
@Pete Melon :) it's good we can have different opinions isn't it!?
My Z7 is reserved for enlarging images for prints! An amazing scientific instrument it is.
If Rodney Smith were still amungst us I am certain he would probably agree with me. But a difference of opinion is a beautiful thing so long the end result wreaks no havoc!
I bid you good day sir :)
like I would love to have a 6x7 digital back or 6x9 6x6 just something bigger then 645/35mm and this sense still can't be as big as the film wow.
Thanks for the video...
Great video!!! Just asked for one for Christmas
Want one
wow the digital files are almost as good as the film scans.. hmmm, makes me wanna sell everything and try and get the back... great video.
Imagine if they made a 6x6 digital back.
Great video, and Allen Stone?..solid!
That being said, I have a Mamiya 645AFD which I just placed a Mamiya ZD digi back on. Now, I'm aware that the ZD back is a "much lower end" back, so I expected that some of my images would be "under par". However, the main issue I seem to be having is that my focus is just a little off with the digital back on, definitely a little soft, whereas with my film back, it's razor sharp!
I mean, withy film back, you can literally see "split ends" in someone's hair if they're sitting like 3 ft from me across the table at a restaurant.
So,...while I'm NOT glad that you're getting those type of results, I "am" relieved to know that it's not just singular phenomena with my digi' back, and that what I'm going through right now may not be totally unique.
And while I do plan to get a Leaf Aptus, Credo 50 (or other higher end back), in the future, I'm wondering if I'm going to have the same issue.
I will shoot the same shot and subject simultaneously with my Nikon D4, and the images are just "scalpel sharp!", As are my film images out of the same 645.
Anyway, I wanted to share this with you since I saw your video. I hadn't noticed how long ago this video was posted so hopefully it wasn't too long ago but I would love to hear any feedback you have.
Thanks again!
bencruz@bencruzphoto.com
You went way over my head. Got my technical observations beat by a mile. I should be asking you for feedback!
Ha ha ha...that's funny....well, thanks buddy. We can share in our technical saavy
digital back sensor is so small : (
It is small. 120 film is so big!
Shocked to see Allen Stone in a photography video, but hey I’m not complaining
I believe it's a fake feeling. X series back is not suitable for 6x6 camera like 503cw or 501cm. Definitely, because of size sensor H series back (it's not on the table yet) is the right one.
This is a really well made video. The framing of each shot, the grade, the comparison. I really everything about this. It’s a shame its the last upload on your channel. You should consider uploading more just for fun.
I wonder why you stopped uploading but whatever the reasoning you should pick it back up for fun
Just noticing this comment and am so grateful for your kind words.
I've been watching your videos of your 907x adventures and it's been very interesting.
I'm wondering if anyone will come up with an adaptor for the native V system lenses that will act as a focal reducer for the digital back on the V system?
That would be interesting and not only allow you to retain pretty much all the framing with no cropping....but you'd also gain about a stop of light on each lens.
If I might offer a little constructive criticism....the music on this video.
Parts of it were very annoying especially at the beginning, the music should be a compliment to the video, and not stand out so much. You're a film maker and know this, but maybe give it a bit more thought on next one.
Anyway, been enjoying your videos...I have a V System camera and am considering getting the 907x. I recently got a Fuji Film GFX100 and need to pay that off and use it a bit first, but I see the Hassy 907 system in my future after that, if for nothing else just the fun of hooking it to my 501 CM like you did and switching film/digital.
Please update if you get the Hassy adjustments to allow you to shoot as sharply on film as digital!!
Good luck, stay safe!!
CC
If you don’t take thousands of frames on your shoots. If you enjoy working in the darkroom or don’t mind scanning film. The medium format film camera simply has a special look to it that digital doesn’t.
@Pete Melon Obviously you have never shot and printed film images.
@Pete Melon no
@Pete Melon I shoot digital and film up to 4x5. I have been to galleries around the world with the most famous photographers work on display. I know what I am talking about child.
Cool video name , but its not the Film and Digital in the same camera . Its Film and Digital on the same lens .
Holy crap the roll off on the film MURDERS the digital!
Great video!
Ok, your outtro phrases are getting better and better 😂😂😂
If only i have a few xtra $$$$$...love mechanical and digital...but digital for convenience
Good stuff McGhee!! ;)
God, just how many hipsters are in Brooklyn? Is there some kind of assembly line there?
I love your opposition to fun.
Well...for 5700.00 they damn well better be calibrating that back to perfection...for free!
Insane prices. I have a feeling this is novelty. For people who already own so much equipment and have the money to spend. I guess with 5700$ you could buy a Fuji digital medium format and keep a lot of change. Writing that while I got a Hassy myself..
I tried this digital combo for a few months but get back to my GFX, which is at the moment light years ahead of any Hasselblad.
Fujifilm yawn
It's really good that Hasselblad make this, but for this camera...It should be film all the way.
Sorry, and it can vary lens by lens.
Lovely comparison! Unfortunately, for me personally, the choice of music is absolutely atrocious and unbearable, I could hardly focus on the images and your words because of overstimulation, which is a shame for your nice storytelling. Sick shots though!
Send me some track ideas.
Where you been? Did you survive the pandemic?
Possibly. Did you?
@@SamMcGhee Indeed
It’s nuts how much negative “real estate” the digital back gives up…compared to the 6x6/film. I mean…that’s WHY I bought into the system in 1984….😂. If a true FF/sq. Sensor back was available, I’d probably make the plunge…for fun sake, not practicality. (Ive got 36-45mp DSLRs for that).
I appreciate this kind of intentional response.
Great video. Great music. More of this.
Epson RD-1 bruh .. we've been there for years. #2007 bitches.
Epson v600 bruh. Been good to me.
@@SamMcGhee Bruh .. you even 11x14 flat-bed scan in large format?! lol
I want to do large format!
@@SamMcGhee It's so 2007 bruh ... do a van sized pin hole scanner long exposure. lol #YOLO
Cool shit. Subscribing now.
why are so many camera gear videos so nonchalant about how expensive this stuff is? That digital back runs between $3 to 5K. No mention of that fact whatsoever.
I also recommend not buying any of this and just using what you have already. The value of “expensive” gear is a factor that will change for a person over time, today this might seem expensive, but after years in a photography career, this camera price tag may seem very typical.
@@SamMcGhee yeah i guess you are right. i just feel like people should be more upfront about the price of gear when doing a review of the gear. Like, you should definitely mention how much the gear costs if you are doing a review of it. Whether you think it's typical or not.
😎
not a word about the comparison of the digital back vs the film back........youtube photographers are in aself centered lala land for clicks and attention.
For those of you who have never seen a Scrum Board - I hope you never will.
An UNSHARP review.
Great video, annoying song lol
Camera is fine , its your eye and workflow that does the focus , does it same as for Film but its not same , there is a slight difference , Sensor is a bit further in. So when you swap like that , you get accidental film focusing , when you indeed need to configure it for Digital back , its not the same . And im pretty sure in User manual it says so . Sensors work differently they are layered so its impossible to be like film , a flat sheet . Its a small difference . What you do , is go in to live view , focus digitally , there you go spot on . Or maybe there is a shift , focus shift mechanism in there , like on other cameras with Diopter , so it can adopt a bit , but i dont know i dont have that camera. Nor do i believe in what you told . There is absolutely no difference using it with Film or Digital back . Other then one is analog and the other is digital . Its like an Effect put on the image . One gives that ,other gives this . There is no better here . Depends on what kind of image you are taking , but if you are good in your craft , there wont be any difference , i mean you will adapt , and figure it out .
And you can do the same with any old camera , the Tool does not make an artist , Artist makes the art with tools he has . So be it digital , or film , picture or video . its you . Fun is Fun , but its not Fun making Art , it takes time , its work , yeah maybe you like it today , sucks tomorrow . things are like that . And most artists whos pictures i like , had basic cameras . its not about having a big camera , actually you need it small , and compact ,so that you can take it anywhere . And if you developed your style , its a fixed lens , no zooms . Because you already know what you will take pictures of .
That is what pros do . Small Camera , fixed lens to their needs and there you go . That camera is for studio work , im sorry to tell you but its for those Trash magazine style images , most trashy photographers use it , sell it if you want the world to notice . That is a mediocre photographers tool , not even that , its below , just above amateur .
And im not saying it to hurt your filling , i know the feeling , i have cameras ,you think bigger better , more expensive makes better art , but no , just doesn't work that way ..Camera needs to be invisible , to get out of the way , that one with its winding and what not is not . Only for Nature and geography , something big and still . There it can be used . Or in studio for studio work , or make a YT video of it .
A. Super in-depth. I appreciate it. The intentionality is very palpable.
B. Agreed with the title conflict. It’s hard to figure out something catchy that’s real.
Terrible choice in music, wonderful camera and content