I suddenly realized I had no brake lights when I almost got rear-ended! The culprit was the brake light switched. Simple job that makes a huge difference!
I just did this job on my 1974 Super Beetle. But I used a deep socket to loosen the old switches and very quickly install the new. Using a socket was a lot easier than getting a wrench in there. Also, with using a socket, I could use my torque wrench to tighten the new switches in at 14 ft. lbs. I removed and installed one switch completely, before moving on to the second switch. Once the old switch was out, I immediately installed the new one. Then I went to the second switch and repeated this remove-and-quickly-install procedure. Doing one switch at a time cuts your fluid loss quite a bit. In fact, I lost so little brake fluid that when I went to bleed the brakes, I found I really didn’t have to.
I have the same exact problem, was going to work and realized the red light didn't come up when braking, only when pushing hard. Thanks for making the video, now I'm positive what the problem is and how to fix it. Thanks.
To negate having to bleed the brakes unless you were planning on doing it anyway, when changing out the switch, have the new one in hand while someone behind the wheel places light pressure on the brake pedal and quickly thread the new one in. Minimal fluid loss without getting air in the system.
Great video bud! Glad they are in a decent spot to get to. When bleeding the brakes, always start from the furthest point, rear right and work your way to the closest one being front left as your last.
Awesome video. The front brake pressure sensor is for your brake lights the rear is for your brake light tester on the dash. The are open pressure sensor. When you apply your brake pedal they close completing the circuit to send voltage to your brake lights. Takes 30lbs of pressure to close the sensor. Best way to test the pressure sensor is to measure resistance between the prongs on the sensor when the brake is applied.
I’m not sure you described the function correctly. This is a “2 circuit” system. Earlier VWs had essentially a single stage Master Cylinder applying pressure to both the front and rear brakes at the same time. If the Master Cylinder failed, or you got a brake fluid leak anywhere in the system, you would potentially lose all your brakes. At some point they went to what is essentially a Dual Master Cylinder, with one cylinder for the front brakes and another for the rear. So now if you blow out a brake line in either the front or the rear, you only lose half your brakes. So there are now two pressure sensors…one for each “circuit”. Either one will trigger your brake lights. The light in the dash is to warn you if either one of the circuits fail. The dash light doesn’t come on when you hit the brakes unless one of the circuits fail.
On my 1971 beetle, I had aproblem with the h the switches, their opening gets blocked by what seems like gunk and require increasing pressure to switch on. As I remember the top access was easier,after removing the tank. Also are you aware that the brake fluid deteriorates the paint and dipports rust on the steel structure beneath it. What to do, clean up and double epoxy coat. Wasn’t available im my time.
Having a similar issue, but I'm now curious if I'm wired wrong. I'm using a wiring harness that one would more likely find on an old Chevy and need to know which of the 3 prong switch does/needs what. Pretty sure the top is for the dash light, but is left (on both switches) from fuse box or does it matter. I'm told they run parallel so I get that.
Make sure you’ve got them wired up correctly, and check all your grounds grounds are a huge problem. Also, sometimes an air bubble can get in there and cause them to not work.
@@Misunderstoodboygenius you sound like a street technician. "¡hey!! i have an electric issue!! ... you have electrical problems" so cannot be the old electric switch sensors attached then? ppfff
@@claroclarito6430 I guess I didn’t understand your original statement. And I am just a guy. I’m not a VW tech nor do I pretend to be. I do these videos for my own fun and hope someone can maybe get some help if I’ve done something right. Have a great day.
@@Misunderstoodboygenius well i am a vw owner and also i worked in my own car constructing it. these electrical contacts are the orgiginals on mine.i never changed them and they are 2 contacts only. i can suppose they are working wrong or maybe the principal has a malfunction. they donot lights the second part of the bulb when brake is applied, 1967 diagram
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I just did this job on my 1974 Super Beetle. But I used a deep socket to loosen the old switches and very quickly install the new. Using a socket was a lot easier than getting a wrench in there. Also, with using a socket, I could use my torque wrench to tighten the new switches in at 14 ft. lbs.
I removed and installed one switch completely, before moving on to the second switch. Once the old switch was out, I immediately installed the new one. Then I went to the second switch and repeated this remove-and-quickly-install procedure.
Doing one switch at a time cuts your fluid loss quite a bit. In fact, I lost so little brake fluid that when I went to bleed the brakes, I found I really didn’t have to.
I have the same exact problem, was going to work and realized the red light didn't come up when braking, only when pushing hard. Thanks for making the video, now I'm positive what the problem is and how to fix it. Thanks.
The real problem is it does not last. Now all cars have a mechnical switch, never had a failure there.
To negate having to bleed the brakes unless you were planning on doing it anyway, when changing out the switch, have the new one in hand while someone behind the wheel places light pressure on the brake pedal and quickly thread the new one in. Minimal fluid loss without getting air in the system.
Great video bud! Glad they are in a decent spot to get to. When bleeding the brakes, always start from the furthest point, rear right and work your way to the closest one being front left as your last.
True. Although on dual circuit you can just do front then back or vice versa. But I always do farthest to nearest out of habit.
Great video brother! I did that over the winter to mine. Buddy is starting to look really nice. You’re doing a great job.
Thanks! Brake lights are importent!
your channel kicks ass
Awesome video. The front brake pressure sensor is for your brake lights the rear is for your brake light tester on the dash. The are open pressure sensor. When you apply your brake pedal they close completing the circuit to send voltage to your brake lights. Takes 30lbs of pressure to close the sensor. Best way to test the pressure sensor is to measure resistance between the prongs on the sensor when the brake is applied.
I’m not sure you described the function correctly. This is a “2 circuit” system. Earlier VWs had essentially a single stage Master Cylinder applying pressure to both the front and rear brakes at the same time. If the Master Cylinder failed, or you got a brake fluid leak anywhere in the system, you would potentially lose all your brakes. At some point they went to what is essentially a Dual Master Cylinder, with one cylinder for the front brakes and another for the rear. So now if you blow out a brake line in either the front or the rear, you only lose half your brakes. So there are now two pressure sensors…one for each “circuit”. Either one will trigger your brake lights. The light in the dash is to warn you if either one of the circuits fail. The dash light doesn’t come on when you hit the brakes unless one of the circuits fail.
On my 1971 beetle, I had aproblem with the h the switches, their opening gets blocked by what seems like gunk and require increasing pressure to switch on. As I remember the top access was easier,after removing the tank. Also are you aware that the brake fluid deteriorates the paint and dipports rust on the steel structure beneath it. What to do, clean up and double epoxy coat. Wasn’t available im my time.
I have a 76 ball on my bug too! Thanks for the informative video
Hey you’re welcome. We had one on ours as a kid so I had to get one :)
Where did you get the brake light switches? By the way great video. Both of my brake lights stopped working at the same time.
Awesome vid. Would love to see your process for bleeding the brakes...(hint hint)😬
It’s not too hard. I need to do the Volvo so maybe I’ll do that one. Essentially the same.
Thankfully I've got my fuel tank pulled out so I don't have to worry about removing a wheel!
🤣
Looks good! The cars behind you should see you brake now. I wonder why that wire was cut, Are you sure someone is not out to get you...
I think that front switch being the original may have been faulty. They may have cut it just to turn off the dash warning light? It works now!
Thank you Needed this
Most welcome!
Where did you get the switches? I need both as well. Thank you!
I believe CIP1 or Jbugs.
Can’t this be done without bleeding the brakes?
Maybe. But I think small air bubbles are inevitable.
Do your brake lights only come on when the key is in the on position or running?
I believe on most older cars that wax the way it was.
Having a similar issue, but I'm now curious if I'm wired wrong. I'm using a wiring harness that one would more likely find on an old Chevy and need to know which of the 3 prong switch does/needs what. Pretty sure the top is for the dash light, but is left (on both switches) from fuse box or does it matter. I'm told they run parallel so I get that.
I believe they do. The exact routing may be different on different years. Best to check a wiring diagram.
I replaced my master cylinder and reinstalled the brake switches from before then boom no lights. Dont know what happened
Make sure you’ve got them wired up correctly, and check all your grounds grounds are a huge problem. Also, sometimes an air bubble can get in there and cause them to not work.
@@Misunderstoodboygeniusgood to know thank you I didnt think i screwed it up that bad
@@throwaway-hp1wt just stuff to check.
If a bubble gets in there, how do you correct that around the switches?
Same thing happened to me, I was gonna get new switches but I’m not sure if it’s just on my end. Did you fix it and if you did what was the problem
As my cholo friend use to say “switches get bitches “ he was into the low rider stuff lol
I’m this case it keeps me from getting rear ended!
When replacing the switch do you have to bleed the system or just replace the fluid that was lost?
I’ve done both. But the brakes always work better when fully bled properly.
mine ligths with switch on but there is no light when brake is apllied
i would do this one by one and the replace part just beside to change it inmediately..
Electrical problems drive me nuts. Good luck
@@Misunderstoodboygenius you sound like a street technician. "¡hey!! i have an electric issue!! ... you have electrical problems" so cannot be the old electric switch sensors attached then? ppfff
@@claroclarito6430 I guess I didn’t understand your original statement. And I am just a guy. I’m not a VW tech nor do I pretend to be. I do these videos for my own fun and hope someone can maybe get some help if I’ve done something right. Have a great day.
@@Misunderstoodboygenius well i am a vw owner and also i worked in my own car constructing it. these electrical contacts are the orgiginals on mine.i never changed them and they are 2 contacts only. i can suppose they are working wrong or maybe the principal has a malfunction. they donot lights the second part of the bulb when brake is applied, 1967 diagram