Hello Chris. I still watch all your videos. You r really a teacher of Mechanic and electrical issues . From overseas I learnt a lot of things from you. My job to fix electrical damages and electrical harness restoration. As especially the old harness of American trucks. Much appreciation, Nabeel subhi , Baghdad
I've got 2 bugs and installed the aluminum version quick shift , spacer/ball that you showed a pic of. The throws are much shorter. You will probably like it. You need longer bolts of course. Some are plastic, I'd worry about those ones.
So how much side-to-side play should the shifter have once it's in gear? Mine clicks into all gears just fine but once in gear, there's as much play as if it were in neutral. I have already replaced the coupler and front shift bushing. Thanks!!
For some reason with my new shifter, I still get that grinding in the reverse. For some reason, it actually goes into reverse easier without pushing the shifter down, which was the case with the first shifter. It also has a brand new lockout plate installed so I have no clue
@@chriscraft77022 I have the plate in correctly, and have found the issue; It is in the manufacture of the plate. I tested this last night by welding on the curved edge(the edge that the welded washer on the stock shifter engages in and rides on to guide into reverse)of the 'ramp' of the reverse side. I then grounded down the weld to make a 90 degree angle, instead of the stock curved edge. Now the shifter will not go into reverse......not a chance now. The curved edge is what sucks in the little guide(welded washer) that runs under the plate when the shifter is pushed down. I will make a video on what I did sometime soon to help out. Now, both of my shifters either need the button pushed or to be pushed down to engage reverse.
I’ve done a couple and I’ve gotten lucky; they went in easy. The headache is making sure the shift rod goes straight back and doesn’t get tangled with the tubes for heater cables inside the tunnel in the back. Good call on keeping the coupling in the back; way better than the red urethane ones. I don’t use any red urethane components if I can help it.
@@chriscraft77022 and the EMPI shifter you bought is good (I had one in a dune buggy I built in 1987) but after the work you did with the stock system you might not need it at all.
Hello Chris.
I still watch all your videos.
You r really a teacher of
Mechanic and electrical
issues .
From overseas
I learnt a lot of things from
you. My job to fix electrical
damages and electrical
harness restoration.
As especially the old harness of American trucks.
Much appreciation,
Nabeel subhi ,
Baghdad
Nice detail in your breakdown of the shifter and components
I've got 2 bugs and installed the aluminum version quick shift , spacer/ball that you showed a pic of. The throws are much shorter. You will probably like it. You need longer bolts of course. Some are plastic, I'd worry about those ones.
So how much side-to-side play should the shifter have once it's in gear? Mine clicks into all gears just fine but once in gear, there's as much play as if it were in neutral. I have already replaced the coupler and front shift bushing. Thanks!!
How was the car acting before the repairs?
Where exactly did you get that bentley cleaning solvent? I’d like a gallon or two 😊
$100 a gallon I got you
@@chriscraft77022 🤣
For some reason with my new shifter, I still get that grinding in the reverse. For some reason, it actually goes into reverse easier without pushing the shifter down, which was the case with the first shifter. It also has a brand new lockout plate installed so I have no clue
you might have the lock out plate in backwards. Mine will not go into reverse at all without pushing down a whole bunch
@@chriscraft77022 I have the plate in correctly, and have found the issue; It is in the manufacture of the plate. I tested this last night by welding on the curved edge(the edge that the welded washer on the stock shifter engages in and rides on to guide into reverse)of the 'ramp' of the reverse side. I then grounded down the weld to make a 90 degree angle, instead of the stock curved edge. Now the shifter will not go into reverse......not a chance now. The curved edge is what sucks in the little guide(welded washer) that runs under the plate when the shifter is pushed down. I will make a video on what I did sometime soon to help out. Now, both of my shifters either need the button pushed or to be pushed down to engage reverse.
@@drummer4hire12 good info, thanks
Was the worn bushing causing it not to lockout the reverse gear or was it a lockout plate?
the bushing was the problem… lockout plate was fine… buy the taller one if you do the job
I’ve done a couple and I’ve gotten lucky; they went in easy. The headache is making sure the shift rod goes straight back and doesn’t get tangled with the tubes for heater cables inside the tunnel in the back. Good call on keeping the coupling in the back; way better than the red urethane ones. I don’t use any red urethane components if I can help it.
i nailed the shifter i speed shift that thing when i drive it..
@@chriscraft77022 and the EMPI shifter you bought is good (I had one in a dune buggy I built in 1987) but after the work you did with the stock system you might not need it at all.
Dam i just worked out i may have to cut a hole in my kit car 😢