VW Beetle Brake Master Cylinder Install - How To video - Super Beetle master cylinder -
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- This week I demonstrate HOW TO replace the master cylinder on our 1968 VW restoration project.
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Thanks!
Thank you!
This just reminded me about the spacers . I just bought some stickers also .
Thank you for the support Randy, we will be shipping out the stickers Tuesday.
Yeah the spacers are extremely important. More than people realize.
Super timing on this series. I installed a new master cylinder in my super and have been dragging my feet in re-installing the pedals and running the front brake lines. Thanks! I’m motivated again!
Duel with disc brakes is the only way to upgrade these👍
Will definitely go that way when money allows my friend
Thanks for the hint on gravity bleeding. That is my plan for my '68, once the master is delivered. So, attach all the hoses and lines, add fresh brake juice to the reservoir, and crack all 4 of the bleeder screws at the wheel cylinders. It will flow, and then close the bleeder nuts one at a time. Thanks man!
You’re very welcome, thank you very much for being here I truly appreciate it.
Nice to know thanks for showing all the details on how to remove and place it back nice job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you Antonio, I hope you’re doing well my friend.
I'm glad i saw it because I am at that point now. but I got to tell you that you should have safety glasses on when you use youe wire wheel. I oncve had to go to the hospital to have a piece of wire removed from my eye. youre videos are my go to. thanks
Thank you for taking the time to comment!
And you know what? You’re right!
Do you know why you’re really right? Because my wife said the same thing to me. 🙁
I did get metal in my eye one time before. You think I would know better by now.
Thank you for taking the time to be here. I truly appreciate that and thank you for caring.
8:30 I wondered what those holes, were for?😂😂Great! I'll watch at least 4x!
Thanks for being here!!
Awesome demonstration. It helps a lot to do it my self. Thank you so much!
Very good video! I remember some of this from watching the first one that I used as a guide to do my brakes. I don't remember removing the pedal cluster but it's been quite awhile.
Thank you!!. I just thought it would be easier to show the pedal cluster out-of-the-way. It can’t be done without doing it, just a little trickier. I hope you have been doing well my friend!
I've removed and refitted several Beetle master cylinders. I have never found it necessary to remove the pedals, but I can understand why someone might. I always rebuild original ATE master cylinders if they're still there and the piston can be salvaged or replaced with a NOS ATE one. I suppose it's all about personal choice.
Same here; have changed them without removing the pedals.
Excellent video. Nicely explained step by step👍
My 72 still has the original master cylinder installed which does not leak and functions a design has intended so I am making an executive decision to just leave the darn thing in there.
If it ain’t broke….
To me, removing the gas tank is the only way to do this. With all the brake lines, it's easy to get everything right. I had Tie Rods and the Steering damper to replace, too, and the gas tank was full of rust any way, so I did it that way.
Thanks Slade. Doing this now on my 70 bug.
Thank you sir for being part of the community.
keep going man love the detailed stuff its good for the comuity
Thanks my friend! I truly appreciate that.
nice job. just did that with brakes and wheel cylinders and lines.
Thank you Jim, I hope you enjoyed the video.
Awesome and very helpful video!!
Thank you for the kind comment!!
@Slades VW Beetle, RE 22:42, I found that a short bungee to hold the pedals toward the firewall was helpful, when I did this on my Beetle. I didn't have extra hands available, but the hooks fit nicely into the holes in the firewall. (Slick Hack to make things less challenging.)
Great video Slade thanks !! see ya on the next one.
Thank you Doug, I hope you’re doing well my friend.
Great video Tony, a good tutorial for replacing that master cilinder. Keep them coming those video’s my friend👍
Thanks my friend I truly appreciate the kind comments. I hope you’re doing well.
So, is it not advisable (or possible) to rebuild a brake master cylinder? (I assume not because you would have done it!) Loved all the detail in this one.
Honestly for the price, I just replace them. I am sure there are kits for rebuilding. And also for wheel cylinders. I guess it just depends on what the person wants to do.
Nice guide!
Thank you brother!
Just in case you didn't know, they (empi) sell a direct mount dual circuit reservoir. It eliminates the upper reservoir. Used ones or nos are available off some late 80's volvo 240DL cars.
Thanks my friend, I truly didn’t know that to be honest with you. Thank you for checking in.
Great video, as always 😁
Thanks brother!
Great video super educational as usual 👌🏻💯💪🏼❤️
Thank you Leonard, I appreciate that.
Please do a warning before this video for people like me thet took the pedal assembly off and did not need to. On a 1964 it is a real tough time unscrewing the adjusting nut almost all the way off to get enough slack to hook up the clutch cable on the hook. I am learning quick. Almost every job I do there is only enough room to work with one hand and everything you do you are doing blind you can not see a thing.. LOL
Did you end up making a video on gravity bleeding? Would love to check that out
Actually I did not yet sir.
However, I will be doing that on the current Beetle I am on in the near future. Thank you for commenting
Hi, I have a question. I'm probably going to end up removing the fuel tank anyway, so if I do will that give easier access to the master cylinder like how you show in your video? Or is there a bunch of other stuff I would also have to take off? Otherwise, the only way I would think you could get to it would be from under the car, which does NOT sound like fun! By the way, I just found your channel and I really like how you explain everything!
Thank you for the kind comments I appreciate that. If it is a super beetle, and you remove the gas tank, you will not see the master cylinder
If it is a standard beetle, it helps greatly. That way you can jack up the car slightly and safely with jackstands. Take your left front wheel off. And removing the gas tank gives you access to two different ways which makes it very nice.
@@SladesVWBeetleThank you for the reply! I'm pretty sure mine is a Super Beetle 😢 so I guess it's going to be a bit harder
@@ct92404 you’re very welcome, it’s not that bad. You just can’t remove the gas tank to get access to the master cylinder. But you would be jacking it up and stabilizing it, and pulling the left front wheel. It is truly not as bad as you think. Here is a video to the super beetle that I did.
th-cam.com/video/HOKzRm_g4oA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YiP8iF79wRUG6_ni
@@SladesVWBeetleOk, thank you. I'm not quite ready for it yet, but I just wanted to see what I would be getting into once I'm going to start working on the brakes and replace the master cylinder.
Hi Slade, I have another quick question for you! I just put a new pedal assembly in, and I'm trying to connect the clutch cable. The engine and clutch aren't installed yet, I was just connecting the clutch cable to the transmission. I THINK I have it connected right, but I was wondering how much does the throw out bearing need to move to activate the pressure plate on the clutch? Sorry if my terminology is off! In other words, when you step on the pedal, how much does the lever and throw out bearing need to move? I tightened the cable and the lever is moving with the pedal. But I'm just wondering if the clutch pedal needs more travel to move the throw out bearing enough? Sorry, I hope this question makes sense. I think I have the pedal assembly on right, the clutch pedal is pretty much vertical when released, but it doesn't have a whole lot of travel.
Great video one ? What holds the spacer in place, just the pressure of the fire walls
Normally, nothing holds them in place. If you pull the bolt out the spacer will fall. His were held in place by rust. I didn't have any rust and I left the bolts in place so I wouldn't have the headache of fishing them out.
@@michaelrobinson1945Way to do it; leave the bolts and spacers in the chassis.
i'd like to see some closeup photos or vid of that wolfsburg master. which of theirs did you get? i see they don't have a chinese version.
Just send me a email my friend, and I will take some close-up shots for you and give you a link to the one I purchased.
sladesbeetle@yahoo.com
I got a new MC and also new lines and Hoses on the front, I fill up the reservoir the oil goes to the MC but seems to not getting to the Hoses, I step down on the brake pedal many times to create pressure open up the bleeder valve nothing comes out. I wonder what could be going on?
Couldnt i just unbolt the master cylinder and leave the pedal assembly in place? I was planning on leaving the rod attached to the assembly and find a way to tie it somewhere close to centered in the hole
Yes, you can do that! I was just showing how the pedal assembly came out at the same time.
@@SladesVWBeetle btw thanks for taking the time to do these videos man it helps a lot. I often have an idea of how im gonna do the job but still always check if you have a video about it to have the extra knowledge. I like the way you go in detail about everything
@@mastermoi thank you for the kind comments. I truly appreciate that. I’m glad these videos are helping folks out. I’m reworking my website right now. And I’m going to make an index on it that will lead right to the TH-cam videos. But you’ll be able to go right to the website and click what you need, like braking system, stuff like that. Hopefully it’ll make it easier for folks.
Cool how to. How is the progress on the beetle coming along? Haven’t seen any updates lately.
Thanks I appreciate that. I’m actually starting on the underneath this week. I have to wire wheel the whole underneath of the car and hit it with rust bullet. So I’ll be back to filming on it. I just figured I would show some other things were going on along the way
Hi, doing my 66 drums. Switching to dual cylinder
Did your residual pressure valves fit in your new master cylinder ?? I bought 2 new cylinders. Neither will accept my stock valves.
Im not gonna leave them out cause Bentley says they are needed.
$20 each for the aftermarket ones ???????????
what did you do ?
If there's brake fluid in the master, what happens when you remove the plunger from it?
If you mean the hose connection? You have to draw the fluid out of the reservoir before disconnecting anything. And of course there will have fluid inside of the master so have some thing underneath it.
@@SladesVWBeetle I meant ....if the system is full, does it hurt to remove the brake pedal push rod (behind the pedal)?
@@dunlapmichaell Ohhhh!! My bad!! You can remove that!! No fluid will come from that area.
If it would, that means your master cylinder is bad. But you would’ve already known that.
Do not change the adjustment on that push rod!! If you do, you will have to readjust it, it’s not much fun. Thank you for being here.
Hi i really hope you see this. Ive been fighting a 73 super and bleeding it. the front bleeds out fine. But the back is bad, it barely spits out fluid. I have replaced all soft lines and lines that go to all wheel cylinders including new shoes and wheel cylinders all the way around, ive vacuum checked all the rest of the hard lines and they all pass. Im at a loss, but i seen in your videos and others the brake pedal rod that pushes into the master are adjustable, but mine is a solid rod. Did they come with both style of push rods? Its the only thing i can think of, rod is too short.
My clutch cable dosen't want to come out so that i can reattach to pedals. Any recommendations?
You need to loosen it at the transaxle end first.
How do u get clutch cable to unhook ?
You need to loosen the cable at the transaxle end first.