Climbing Aguja Poincenot via Judgement Day
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ส.ค. 2024
- After getting back to Polacos from Saint Exupery, I informed Chris and Billy that the rock fall danger on the approach to Poincenot wasn’t as bad as expected and we were good to go. We racked up in a rush, utilizing the last light, and went to bed with alarms set for 3:40am. We woke and raged our way up the heinous approach gully in under two hours, arriving at the base of the route earlier than expected. We had to wait till first light to attempt to find the start of the route but that didn’t really matter because we started up the wrong way anyway. We eventually merged onto the correct cracks after a few pitches with Chris in the lead. Chris brought us up to the base of the headwall after climbing though many pitches of wet and icy crack. I started out attempting to follow everything free but shorty gave up since the rock was often coated in verglas.
I took over the lead at the headwall and climbed five 60 meter pitches of perfectly vertical splitter cracks up to 5.12a. The first pitch contained a perfect hand crack for 50 feet but eventually widened to 4”-5” inches for almost all of the remaining 150 feet. I leapfrogged a single 4 and 5, while looking down with some concern at over 100 feet of rope with nothing clipped. The next pitch contained steep finger and hand crack on perfect rock that I mostly freed at 5.11+. The third pitch was a bit of breather but the angle steepened and rock quality deteriorated in some places on my last 2 pitches. I finished each having placed my entire triple rack, feeling quite worked and bleeding profusely... Perhaps I should have worn crack gloves. Billy took over and quested off on an epic 1.5 hour lead that took us off route to sketchy and difficult terrain. I almost suggested Chris take back over but Billy more than made up for it, rocketing to the end of the steep terrain quickly and leading our 1000 foot simulclimb in 3 blocks to the summit. We celebrated for a brief few minutes before starting our rappels.
The terrain above the steep part of our route was complex and wandery, and I was nervous about getting back to a familiar anchor before the sun fully set. I led the rappels off the summit, desperately searching for anchors that were often buried by snow and almost always missing a carabiner. We built a few anchors of our own and managed to get almost all the way down to the steep section before the dark. I was worried we were off route and wasted a bunch of critical time of last light but Chris took over for a few rappels and got us back on track to known terrain. I took back over as we began making full 60 meter rappels down vertical terrain. On the steepest pitch, we managed to get our rope stuck which required a fully overhanging jug to reset the knot below a crack. At 1am, we heard another huge rockfall event below us and I hoped everyone at Polacos was okay. It turned out to be a slightly smaller event but it did put another two holes in my tent which Shira was sleeping in. I led all the remaining rappels back to the base where we finally found the true start to the route, maybe 300 feet to the left. We arrived on the ground at 2:50am and hiked back to our packs hungry and thirsty, having consumed everything we brought up. Chris and I had brought up bivy gear having planned to sleep at the base but Billy, exhausted, opted to delay the hike back to Polacos and just pass out on the ropes in an emergency bivy sack. He didn’t quite make it that far, passing out on top of some rocks with no cover. Chris and I went to melt snow, got Billy a bit more comfortable and then passed out ourselves at 4:30am. - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
Watching Tyler karow is better than spanish class
So difficult, beautiful and dangerous. Thanks for posting so normal people can see it too.
These videos are epic man. You're living the dream.
Amazing in every way. You are so chilled
Genuinely the best climbing content on TH-cam! Well fucking done Tyler!
Rock climbing videos always make my hands and feet sweat. The way he stood on top of the summit like that. I'd be shaking.
Awesome brothers!!! First day of spring here in Babylon.... your world is dreamy, straight forward and purified.... climb on warriors! 🐺🙏👍👍👍👊👊👊👆👆👆🌞🧗🏻♂️✅🍀 !
What an amazing climb, so cool to watch
What an amazing route and place! This looks like a super dry season, there's barely any snow on the mountains. I wonder how this affects the risk of rock fall in the area.
Well this season were 3 death cause of that. Avalanches of rock and ice cause it's super dry.
Very cool, nice video.
Way to get after it Tyler!
insane footage
The man likes to run it out!
when you jugged the stuck rope did you place pro on the way up? just wondering how you protect something like that.
No, the knot got stuck in a crack only a few feet below the anchor so both ends of the rope were still down at the lower anchor. We just tied off the end I didn't jug.
@@tylerkarow I am confused, doesn’t that still make it a big gabble on the security of the stuck rope?
@@infamousboone no, it wood be tied off to a good anchor at the bottom, looped through a good anchor on the top, then the jugging happens on the other strand (one of the two just rapped on)
Awesome
Best vids on the internet thank you tyler. How many batteries and gigs do you bring for these adventures?
I usually just bring my single gopro with no accessories and a single extra battery for a day climb.
Wow 😳💪👊
Epic
Hi Tyler, amazing content. Is using the Petzl Microtraxion similar/ the same as using a belay device in guide mode or direct belaying off the anchor? Also, is it safe to do so?
Let’s goooooooo
wow
gnarly stuff but holy shit the views!
I came all over my notebook..... now I have to clean
nice sends! when was this? (and the other ascents)
also holy shit the weather was unbelievable up there!
mid Feb
I notice Tyler places pro within 10ft on his lead but the others don't place for 20+ feet. Am I missing something or is this common practice in big walls?
Love the videos
It’s risky. If you fall into the belay station it’s a factor 2 fall and you are also likely to injure your belayer (who is then likely to drop you to your death).
It mostly depends on the terrain. Every pitch is different
@@tylerkarow Thanks for the reply Tyler. I really appreciate all the videos
see ya billy
on these big wall projects, does not everyone climb each pitch??
It depends. Not on this climb
супер👍
Keep following your nose Tyler!
What camera you use?
GoPro 7 black
i climbed that in one day