Climbing Aguja St. Exupery via Chiaro de Luna
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มี.ค. 2022
- Two days before the start of this weather window, my partner bailed on me to climb with someone else, leaving me outraged and in a panic to find a replacement. Shira Biner, who I had met a couple weeks earlier was also partnerless for the upcoming window and agreed to be my backup in case I couldn’t find another partner. Shira claimed to be slow, weak, and high maintenance but I suspected she was a bit better than advertised. We finally agreed to link up and made plans to climb Aguja Saint Exupery via Chiaro de Luna on day 1 of the window and Aguja Rafael Juarez on day 3 after Chris and Billy kindly agreed to let me join them on Aguja Poincenot on day 2 while Shira rested. After rolling into base camp at Polacos in under 6 hours, we went to bed with alarms set for 5am. At 3am, we woke up to one of the loudest noises of our lives as massive rock fall rained down adjacent to camp. Our tent was hit multiple times from smaller stones as we ran outside and huddled behind a large boulder for shelter. We were shook up and I was fairly certain we would not be climbing that day. The assumption at camp was that the rock came from the gully between Poincenot and Rafael Juarez so Chris and Billy opted to forgo their attempt on Raf. Our approach to Saint Exupery only crosses the gully briefly so we decided to wait till it was light to scope it out. We arrived at the edge of the rockfall zone in the light and made the call to book it across the gully which took about 10 minutes going as fast as possible. Once we were across, we could see that the approach to Poincenot and Rafael Juarez was actually not any further in the fresh rockfall zone and therefore a similar risk.
Shira and I made it to the base of Chiaro de Luna just after 8am and roped up in cold and wet conditions. Checking in at 5.11a and 2400 feet, Chiaro is a moderate classic with incredible free climbing. The first vertical pitch of the route is also the crux pitch and was dripping with water. My hands completely numbed out but I managed to free it. Shira got the screaming barfies on the approach pitches and I was almost certain the pitch would be a disaster for her but she managed to second it faster than I led it with no complaints of cold. I was pleasantly surprised. We quickly fell into a grove, simulclimbing up to 5.10-, with Shira zooming up behind me. We made it to the headwall pitches in two and half hours and I hadn’t even eaten a bar or taken a sip of water. We raged up the head wall, had a little hiccup on the traverse and made it up the chimneys just in time to run into Thomas Huber and Pedro Odell on the summit. Our time from base to summit was just over 6 hours. I led every pitch, carrying the tag line in a pack and felt completely in the zone… Stoke was high. We chilled on the summit in perfect weather and zoomed down the rappels in 2 hours. After never ending talus and a run through the rockfall zone, we made it back to camp with day light to spare. - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
Shira - "Well... I'd rather be humble than cocky..!"
Define Perfection.
You've been having a crazy time there, thank you for covering all of this! Shira is so sweet lmao
Haha so cool with the dance on the summit! :) Seems you've had a lot of fun at that climb!
Another cool video. You are so upbeat and positive and have so much fun. The resolution of your videos is so excellent. Keep ‘em coming!
Love the psych! So beautiful, awesome adventure.
watched the whole video with a smile on my face :D Shira had some great energy!
6:23 What a picturesque belay ledge!
Super awesome and inspiring stuff
Adoro la serie del Chalten! Tremendas cumbreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees!
The smell of sulphur after a "good" rockfall is wild! Hangs around for a long time.
Memories...smells...awesome...
Thanks man...that area used to be "expedition" territory...now there are cabins and campgrounds and people on holiday...how times change...
Awesome man...
Heey! good work there! Congrats
i could never do the climbing you do bro, its amazing , and watching your videos , its helping me with my fear of height's . when i 1st started watching your videos , it would make me feel dizzy or just funny feeling , like it does to me in real life, not so much now, still some in person though.. but I definitely can tell its helping me.. plus i like the videos lol I'm not even a climber or anything
Beautiful climb!
Wow, wow and double wow. What a place, what a team.
Nice work bruh
Sweet! Rainforest or desert climb next!🔥🤙🍷
it's so gorgeous, nice climbing, i love crack
Wow dude
God I love these videos
🔥
so cool!!! will you try to climb cerro torre ?
That diving board sticking out at @6:03!!! Holy crap
a life goal of mine is to bat hang there!
wow
Tyler, Dude...!!! She Even Looks like You man too....!!!! Surely the sign of a really lovely Connection...!!!! Seriously though You look like You're having a whale of a time up there in the Fitz Roy....!!!! And You're Still Rocking up the absolute Best Content on You tube literally Barr None....!!!! And this One had such a Lovely Chill vibe man too...!!!! & Such Beautiful Scenery man & the Rockfall with all of those Smouldering Rocks was just wild man too....!!!!! & I def agree with Catsaur Def looks like a lovely connection man & really Lovely climbing partnership too...!!!! :)
The climbing looks so fun but that gulley looks so sketch. I had a close call on Slesse on the approach and narrowly missed getting wiped out by falling ice. Yikes! I know the feeling. Seems like these environments are even more dangerous as the planet warms.
WHO THE HELL HAS THE NERVE TO BAIL ON THIS MAN!
i had the same thought lol
@5:15 thats like if a tree falls in the woods and no ones around does it make a sound lol so if a rock slide happens and no one is on the range , does it make a sound ? lol
She s so funny
Great video! One question, why do you belay from the top with a micro trax? Thanks!!
less friction for elbows, comfy belay, plenty safe!
Hey man!!! I have a question, what selection of camalots do you have? How many and sizes? I would like to climb there, that's why I must invest in equipment
Terrifying place to be. Gotta be unafraid of heights and possible death from any number of things.
looking for advice: what is the ideal ropes(s) to take for this area? double 60? I was thinking maybe 1 triple rated Beal Opera and one gully or icecline both in 60. What do you recommend? thanks!
was it a meteorite?? if so they worth lots of money
How do you evaluate when to use single rope vs twin/half ropes on such a route? Was there basically low risk of the rope getting damaged?
Where was this? This is literally my dream to climb like this
Patagonia, a satellite peak in the Fitz Roy group.
if that's slow, weak and high maintenance I have no chance at all....:(
why on earth did your partner bail on you?
Even TK has flakey partners
Am I seeing old, risty pitons in some of those cracks..?
that's pretty dumb not tied in antics on the summit!
How do you climb with one rope and then rappel with two?
cut the rope?
its the same rope but used in half, I mean you have to put the middle of the rope on the anchor and throw the two rope ends to the cliff
I had a tag line in my backpack
third comment!
Notice the clown didnt show you the mountain trash webbing he left behind everywhere to rap down.
It was great until you threw an F bomb. That ruined it for me.