Aid Climbing the Dawn Wall (Mescalito)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ย. 2020
- I had been hanging out with a buddy in El Cap meadow who had been on a wall with “Pass the Pitons” Pete for 12 days and mentioned Pete was looking for porters to haul down some loads from the top El Cap. This was the day before I was planning to climb the West Face of the formation so after my buddy Cedar and I found ourselves on top with plenty of daylight to spare having done the route in 8ish hours, the idea of making a couple hundred bucks suddenly became appealing. We grabbed the bags, regretted our decision about 20 minutes in but it wasn't until about 10 minutes from the parking area when I took a misstep and rolled my ankle. I heard a crunch and immediately knew it was a sprain.
My ankle was not healing at the pace I was hoping and after two weeks I was itching to climb. I convinced my buddies Chris and Billy that it was good enough to aid climb in so we set our sights on Mescalito. Mescalito is an aid line put up in 1973 that ascends the wall of early morning light aka the dawn wall. The famed “Dawn Wall” route on El Cap shares more pitches with Mescalito than any other route. With all of our gear sprawled out while racking up, Alex Honnold rolled by, asked us what route we were climbing and casually questioned why we were considering bringing so much wide gear. We had (2) #4s and a #5 per the topo but Honnold seemed to think were wasn’t a whole lot of wide on the route, we obviously had to downsize so we ditched the #5.
I had heard from multiple sources that the route has bad hardware, a number of missing rivets and could use some work. I personally had no experience with bolting but I had a few days to borrow the necessary tools/hardware and get properly educated on how to hand drill. We hauled loads to the base of the wall on Friday 11/30 and immediately noticed an old rusty belay bolt at the P0 belay. We had time, so we went to work, removing the bolt with tuning forks, drilling out the shallow 1/4” hole to a deeper 3/8” hole and installed a shiny new 3/8” stainless steel expansion bolt.
We woke the next morning, hiked to the base, clipped our new bolt, and started up the route. We climbed 8 pitches before it got dark, set up the ledges, ate some Tasty Bites, and went to bed happy with our progress. Waking up on a portaledge on El Cap is an experience I cannot describe in words… Let’s just say it’s quite rad. We packed up the ledges and booked it up to pitch 15 which we had heard needed the most work. I climbed the pitch just before sunset and confirmed is was in fact sketchy and more dangerous than most would prefer.
The next morning, I woke up and immediately headed up to place a bolt about 10 feet off the belay in the absurdly shallow hole of a missing rivet. Higher up, I pulled out a rusty rivet that was already in the process of coming out of the wall and put in another bolt. Chris added a third bolt to the pitch in the location of another missing rivet towards the top. There is A LOT of ethical debate regarding replacement of rivets with bolts. I don’t intend to get into the details but I feel that our actions were the right ones.
After pitch 15, we only had 2 pitches of aid plus 80 feet of 5.7 to get to an epic ledge called The Bismark. We arrived shortly after 2pm and I raped down to pitch 17 to replace an old lead bolt. When I jugged back up to the Bismark, Chris had just started up the pitch above in order to fix it for our blast to the top the next day. He wearing his free shoes and was prepared to free climb the unprotected 10” section at the top. Chris is a wide climbing aficionado who has dragged me up dozens of pitches of burley off-width and chimney, always cruising them with minimal difficulties. I was in pure chill mode and just got my camera out to take a video of the ledge when Chris yelled “Oh Fuck, Oh Fuck!” and fell 30 feet straight out of the unprotected squeeze. The three of us has been half jokingly hoping each other would whip the entire climb so Billy and I were overjoyed when we saw such an epic fall go down. Chris rested a few minutes, pulled up to his high piece of gear and opted for the layback escape. The layback is only rated 5.10a but it was slick, Chris was exhausted and Billy and I were almost certain he was going to go for another ride. He barley squeaked it clean, got to the anchors and lowered down for burritos and an epic sunset.
We made it to the top mid afternoon with huge smiles on our faces. In all, Chris took two falls, I took two and Billy got away with zero. We watched another unreal sunset on the top of El Cap in an awesome bivy spot and ran into some friends who had just finished the Muir Wall. The Milky Way came out, the shooting stars began to roll through the sky, and a nearly full moon rose. We woke in the morning, packed up and booked it down the east ledges in about 1 hour and 30 minutes. We made it down before noon and had the rest of the day to hang in the meadow and look up at the beautiful piece of stone we had just climbed. - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
"Let me know when I'm on belay"
*silence*
Spoiler alert: Incredible footage freeing the dawn wall in approach shoes
@Chloe Maruffo nobody gives a shit
Very well organized belays. Great route and thank you for the bolt replacements.
I like the fact that in all of that, you noticed and appreciated the succulent. That's aware, man.
"I guess we're gonna show Tommy how it's done" lol
You are consistently my favorite climbing TH-camr, all your videos are well edited and too the point! You’re a huge inspiration man hope to do even just a few of the legendary climbs you’ve done!!
Great to see this kind of content on TH-cam man, thanks so much! It's a great way to keep the stoke high as someone that's trying to break into the Big Wall world!
Nice to see the valley open back up again. Great climb guys.
Dude you should have millions of subs. Best climbing channel online ever made! And im not even a climber. Loving these!
Well this isn't climbing
@@patrickoconnell9387 Agree.
Climbing Management Plan: Rock-Based Recreation in Joshua Tree National Park
The establishment of bolt-intensive face climbs, commonly known as “sport climbs”, is considered incompatible with wilderness preservation and management.
In Norway the alpine climbing community treasures highly its code of ethics, summed up in “leave no trace.” It is generally considered unacceptable to add bolted anchors on ice and mountain routes in order to make them easier, safer, and more convenient to climb.
“Fixed anchors should not be placed merely for convenience or to make an otherwise "unclimbable" route climbable...The infrequent placement of new fixed anchors is allowed when ascending a route to connect terrain that is otherwise protected by removable anchors (e.g., one crack system or other natural feature to another)...New, bolt intensive climbing routes (e.g., sport climbs, bolt ladders) are not appropriate in wilderness and should not be created.” - Rocky Mountain Colorado Wilderness Management Plan
@@fedorpravov5372they shouldn’t put up Hand/ guard rails, via farratas, and cables like at half dome for hikers either. Is there a management plan for that crap too? Making dangerous terrain easily accessible to people who have no business being there definitely shouldn’t be encouraged.
@@patrickoconnell9387might as well install a ladder.
A man who takes "video description" seriously, and not for advertising, impressive.
Another banger Tyler! Thanks for all the bolt replacements bro!
Great video and fantastic climbing, guys!. I love Yosemite!
Thanks for the new bolts! We appreciated them this month:)
i seriously can not even imagine sleeping overnight on a fabric ledge attached by ropes, that high up. Cant beleive man had propane burner litght at night, it could easily burn ropes, amazing courage.
Absolutely amazing
Tyler’s not joking about that ankle! saw it for myself the end of October while gearing up for The Nose. the size of a baseball. Kudos for getting back on the wall so quickly! serious commitment.
thanks for the inspiration! I climbed back in high school in the early 2000's and am just now gettin back into it again. Very cool stuff!
"He's in space over there somewhere-" way to make my worst hell even worse, put it at night
Just very recently discovered your channel, its nothing short of amazing man!
Love how stoked you get on falling! Just started lead climbing and I get it for sure! So much fun!
Great video!
These guys bring Beds, Hammers, Food, etc....straight up a wall......WOW
Sick video as usual. Thanks for replacing the old bolts. Alot more work involved than just drilling new bolts.
The fall followed by a sweet little camera flip was epic. Wicked ascent bro-cabrios!
Nice video, awesome adventure. Thanks for the rebolting. Way rad!
Never quit making videos
Awesome videos
Good shit boi s...great filming..
Sick Dude! Thanks for replacing those bolts! Can't wait to go up there
Nice video! And nice work!
14:37 must be a climbing thing to get so excited over a fall lol
Taking a fall like that thousands of feet in the air gets the adrenaline pumping, feels amazing.
@@caedmonswanson2378 Thats fair but the spectators were the ones amped up
Its fun
This is awesome.
Those packets of Indian food you had on the second night are probably one of my favorite things to take with me backpacking or camping. They're super good and those packets are tough.
Watching this is pretty soothing.
Love this stuff. Keep at it. I'd love to photograph you all sometime
Best stuff in this
Would love to see more
Great video.
14:03 nice smoke spot i guess
Please do more scrambling videos, love seeing them they strike less fear into my soul lmfaooo
I remember watching Harding and Caldwell going over the top on TV in the 70's.
These videos kick ass, Dude. Please keep em coming?
Nice video guys. Someday
Nice, it's good they brought there toothbrush
thanks for the subtitles) cool rise) you guys are just cool))) hello from Russia))))
Glad to see you're not flagging the ledges; that never works as well as PTPP says it does.
enjoyed the tribe, souls of mischeif and doobie brothers. we have the same playlist
I am so unbelievably scared of heights I have no idea how you all can possibly do this stuff! Very impressed (especially sleeping while hanging off a cliff that high) o.o
Big walling is exhausting, it's surprisingly easy to konk out after a long day on the wall. Even for me, a person that started with a fear of heights.
Thats super dope that Alex Honnold rolled by and "casually asked" why you guys were bringing so much wide stuff... I ran in to Tommy Caldwell and Blair Williams (vice pres of Edelrid) on El Cap a couple weeks ago on their way to do the Nose and Half Dome in a day. Super sick video man!!
Where was that alex honnald part?
Hey Tyler. Your vids are top notch. Do you have any vids of your beginner climbs or did you document your early progress? like did you start in a gym? what was your progression? older new climber here. thanks!
no words - as normal people you can't belive what are you doing - gratulation for this
Kinda liked that old mank....Charlie Porter might've placed one you chopped....I'd treasure that keepsake.
Oh I'm aware. I still got em!
Siicckk dude, love your videossss
awsome !!
can you do more footage of you coming down to complete your trips?
Flight of the conchords!
Love your videos Tyler!
Is that a Petzl Tribloc that you are using for your easy daisy'z?
Those hand drilled bolts reminded me of the mighty Warren Harding.
All drilling in the park is hand drilled
All drilling in the park is hand drilled
I love that quinoa and brown rice.
That’s actually insane views
Dude you guys are awesome. Thanks! How long does it take to put in one bolt by hand like that?
As a german/czech sandstone climber i really want to try aid climbing.. i mean ive never placed metal pro, not even gone start on hooks, but it kinda looks fun.
these type videos give me a weird sinking feeling in my stomach.
Was this on halloween weekend? If so I might have a 15sec clip of you guys from the meadow. It kinda looks like I got the spot around @3:40 in your video.
Incredible video, incredible quality!
Just my personal curiosity, how much weight did the leader carry? I saw about 30 friends, hooks, a hammer, pitons, probably nuts? I want to build a similar rack in the future, currently I have only a small rack (a set of friends and nuts, plus a hammer and some pitons) but I already feel that it weights a lot...
I have no idea how many pounds the rack was. Your estimate is about right, just add a few beaks and yes to the nuts. Check the rack recommendations on topos for what is needed on routes you're psyched to do.
a tribe called quest!!
I dont know whats more surprising, the fact that I watched every second of this without being distracted, or that I'm 19 and knew over half those songs you all were jamming to whilst rebolting🤣🤣great video! Watched the rock fall vid first as it was recommended, but all your videos are very well produced and extremely captivating !! Keep it up man
genuine question, once you reach the top of the mountain do you have to climb back down it? or is there a pre plan hike back down tot he base? i dont see any vids after the climb on how most get back down.
I think that was the same 1mm cord u clipped in 1998
What u smoke ing CBD or strait THC ,I couldn't imagine being baked that high ,what a pun
Camping up there must have been awesome 😎,do it now because once you get old ,say good by to that ,big wall stuf
I just here for the succulents.
Very few people out there who'll even climb this. Even fewer who will replace bolts. For something like this do you have to talk to someone about replacing bolts? How often were you able to reuse existing holes?
👏👏👏
I wouldn't know what rope to touch, damn.
That fall at 14:35 should definitely be on #weekendwhipper
Hey Dude! Good work replacing those bolts!
Cheers Mark! Hopefully see ya in the valley again next season!
I'm a fairly new climber - only climb indoors right now.. trying to get my endurance enough so I can go do some outdoor stuff (I'm in PA) but how do you do these big walls? Do you need to wait until other parties are finished the route you are on or can multiple parties climb the same route?
The Jacob collier of climbing
these dude climbing up with a whole camp site
What brand of ladders?
Smoking a doobie on the Dawn Wall, nice!
I notice you use an alfifi in this video but just use your adjustable daisies in later videos. What made you ditch the alfifi? Do you think the adjustable daisies make it redundant?
My friend had one and I tried it out for a pitch but I didn’t like it. I just use adjustable daisies. Way better.
belays? I think not lol!! how much time could one spend hahahaha!! my grandkids dont call anymore.
Nice video. But was someone smoking on El Cap? I would have been yelled at in the 80’s if I lit up. 🔥
14:01 is what life's all about.
do you sleep with secutirty on ? I would not trust myself to not roll of the thing :D
Anyone sleeping like that is simply a god
Apart from the fact that flashing my loft is nigh impossible for me, if I did have the ability to do what you guys are doing, the engineer in me would not want to trust something I just hammered into the rock without verifying it somehow that didn't involve human live testing!
What I wonder is: how do you shit in that situation? You just drop it down?
14:03
4.20pm
watching this makes me feel exposed :s
It just doesnt seem all real to me. Like CGI almost. What a feeling it must be to be comfortable up there.
Bravado masks the fear.
Recommendations of sorts here from the tribes of Amzônia brazil
Is it OK to post "Oh Hell No" in every one of your videos?
‘Are you freeclimbing??? That’s not allowed’
smoking a joint on the dawn wall lets fucking go lmao
"Are you free climbing? That's not allowed." 🤣😂 More like that's impossible unless you're Ondra, Caldwell or Jorgenson.
Nice filming...not the swirl and jerk helmet cam BS
check out this beautiful succulent.
i dont know the first thing about climbing but i know i aint doing that, palms are sweating just watching
these great walls are gonna be littered with spots to climb on, which is good and bad
Do you stay attached while sleeping?
always