I'm a fan of BIN but as I'm lazy I too prefer the bulleye 123 because it's waterbased so cleanup is easy........its called BIN as you BIN your brushes afterwards 🤣
I decided to take on building a wardrobe in my own bedroom after my wife told me we needed a new one, so I was quite relieved to find this series since you videos have helped me out with advice in a few other projects! Looking forward to see how it all turns out!
Looking good Charlie! I’ve been going through your videos for a while now. As a DIY’er I learn a lot from the pro’s videos but your approach is much more my level. Those errors and mistakes disclosed are sooooo educational! So much more than “step 1. here’s £5,000 of tools you can’t afford. Step 2. Here’s a perfectly finished piece” 😕
Hi Charlie, great job on the wardrobe! I’ve been following your wardrobe series to aid with the construction of my own built-in wardrobe project. This series has been a massive help and I have learned a lot from the videos, thanks for that. I feel as if I need to give something back for all the knowledge and tips you have shown me. Just the so you know the ball bearing drawer slides you have used in your build are fitted with C-shape cut outs around the screw holes the you can push out with your thumb to eliminate the need for washers and glazing packers to help when the draw is too narrow for the drawer slides or if the carcass is out of square. Just thought I should let you know as I have I learned so much from you. Great video mate keep up the good work.
I’m loving this series about the wardrobe build. Not that I’m ever going to do anything like this myself. I like the way you explain things in a straight forward way. You’re making a fab job of it. Love the colour of them too. 😊
Charlie, this has been a superb series of videos on the wardrobe build. Your candid and honest approach is much appreciated and although I am now on full alert to avoid making the same mistakes that you very kindly pointed out, although I am pretty confident I will undoubtedly invent some of my own. Thank you for sharing.😀👍
Thanks Norman. It's good to hear from you and I really appreciate that. Yes it's been a lot of fun, this and quite a journey, made very fulfilling by the constructive comments from you wonderful people (the cyclonic extractor being a good example, which arose from the gentle reminder that I shouldn't be air blowing all that MDF dust). I'm currently stuck in the inertia of painting all those drawers and getting to grips with some technical issues. I bought a new camcorder which made the edit on that last video a nightmare. I've finally traced the problem down to the video codec I used being HVEC, which my fairly amateur editing software (and actually most professional suites I'm told) couldn't cope with. I'll endeavour to get a video out this week but it hasn't been easy with the kids at home and is all suffering from a few colds (I'd forgotten what they were like, during lock down).
Another great video Charlie. Well done! For internal measuring (eg between the drawer frames) I would recommend a Hultafors TALM3 tape measure (which I bought (Amazon) on a Peter Millard recommendation). It's very well made and the locking mechanism is very good and precise. Extending the rear part adds exactly 100mm to the measurement markings, so internal measurements are trivial to make...no bending of a normal tape measure and guessing the distance, or needing a laser measure etc. Also, when locked say across the front of the frame, it acts as a sort of "story stick"...just move it to the back, and if it fits with a gap, you're too wide, if it doesn't fit you're too narrow. And when it's a perfect fit...you're bob on!
Charlie I have to say thank you for the inspiration I’ve gain from your videos. Since watching them all may I add... I’ve built some fitted wardrobes, installed a new basin in the bathroom and a thermostatic value for warm water through the outside tap for the dogs ! Keep up the great work and I’m looking forward to the next instalment ..... 👍
JB, can't thank you enough for all your support of the channel, although I cringe that you had to sit through those early videos with the cheesy music 😬 I'm humbled by what you've achieved from watching them, and you've beaten me to it on the mixer tap for the dog! I've bought something much less sophisticated that will require two taps outside and a shower head, but haven't got round to installing it yet! I've had a bit of a hiatus on the vids the last week, but I hope to get cracking again to finish the wardrobe very shortly. Thanks again 👍
Looking good Charlie after years of fitting those drawers it was only recently I realised how to get the right every time purposely make the drawer boxes 1-2mm small on purpose so take the drawer runner size off then an extra 1-2mm. Then if you look on the back of the runner you'll see u shaped cut outs around some holes not all. Push these tabs out slightly and only fix through these holes with the tabs into your carcase. These take up the difference and centre themselves, just put your drawer in a work it back n forth several times so it centres itself. It might feel stuff 1st time, that's normal. Open n close it a few times and it will be real smooth. Means if your cabinet is a mm or 2 out of square, it's not gonna matter.
Aw, Rob, I really appreciate that 👊🏻 You certainly will but it might be a few weeks as I've realised I've given myself a lot to do in the final video... Can't thank you enough for the comment - comments have been such a valuable source of inspiration from you wonderful people over the years. Couldn't have done it without you!! 🙏
Love the videos mate! I'm attempting to replace old kitchen cupboard doors with mdf ones, took on board a lot of tips from yourself and hoping to save a fortune by doing them myself! Brilliant videos as well keep them coming 👍
Slightly unrelated but somehow this video gave me an inspiration to do the floating shelves next to the fireplace before the outside projects kick off this spring.
Loving this series! Really made me want to do a full rebuild of the previous owners fitted wardrobes, but for now, I'll settle with some faker shaker doors and maybe do a rebuild in a few years
Thanks 👍 The faker shaker doors are coming up in a week or two - I've got rather bogged down with the painting the last couple of weeks but am going to try and get a vid out this weekend talking about painting the MDF end grain.
@@CharlieDIYte morning mate. Ah great, I'll keep an eye out! I'm not 100% sure on thickness of doors but also how wide to do the frame pieces, be great if you could give a quick 20-30 seconds on ideal ratios etc. My doors are 400x 2400 and was going to do 80mm wide rails etc. 16mm back with 8mm for the rails and I found these easy fix hinges that don't require you to drill out the holes etc for traditional hinges.
Have a look at some Purdy Dale Elite cutting in brushes. They aren't the cheapest but my word they make cutting in so much easier. I bought the set you can get that has from memory 3 sizes, I use the smallest ones most and rarely the largest. I really do recommend them. Being angled brushes they make such a difference.
I learned a great trick for filling gaps: just use drywall compound. I always have a huge tub of that lying around anyway, and it works fantastic* to shove into the holes so the caulk can just sit on the surface and look neat and flush. In my old rickety house I filled a half inch gap with that stuff and years later it still looked great, no caulk cracks or shifting at all.
Another great video Charlie! I was particularly pleased about the attention you gave to measuring for the drawer runners.I have had drawer runners at home for a while hoping to make drawers for our pots and frying pan cupboard, need to work outside which has not been possible recently. I have been terrified about getting the measurements wrong. You showing the pitfalls gives me confidence to just keep thinking and checking.
Thanks Edward. Ultimately, to be safe, you can put it together first, check it fits and then glue it, but I wouldn't have got into this mess if I had just relief on good old fashioned tape measure and eye, rather than my laser, which always gives you a slightly longer measure.
oh my god I would LOVE THESE!!! I think I am going to watch all your videos and learn how to DIY. One thing that I have always wanted is a Storage Sofa. If you buy a sofa with some sort of storage - it has a spare mattress inside it, and is tailored to pull the mattress out and it is spring loaded to slot into place. This is not a simply sofa that you can remove the spare mattress then you are left with storage space - removing the mattress, leaves you with nothing underneath. I watched a video where a girl cut out the cover from under the sofa (by turning it upside down, and that gave a tiny bit of room to take the 'soft' underbed storage bags (maximum 4 inches in height, but it did help her with the bedding. I never understand why a lot of beds and sofas are never geared to have massive storage space ( I know you do get drawers in beds) - I wish you could get drawers in sofas. People do not have the space they wish they had. I moved into an older home and there is NO CUPBOARDS!!! I need so much storage space, all my furniture needs to have storage. I am working on making this a reality. I am going to watch your fitted wardrobe and make a cupboard in the living room as well as bedroom!! If you every get the chance can you do storage??? all different types of storage - vertical use of space.
Nice job Charlie - A product I've found really good for caulking wider gaps is 'everbuild coving adhesive and joint filler'. It's essential a thicker version of normal caulk and works really well on wood. Used it quite a bit in the past and never had issues with cracking 👍
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Sorry about your technical problems...I can't help. I had to press the power button and the volume button at the same time whilst keeping my fingers crossed this week. Had to lie down afterwards! I also treated myself to a new tool which I could hear laughing as I opened the case...it must be me. Keep up the good work Charlie as always a pleasure to watch.
Your videos are very helpful, as you work in the trade so your experience and others, you can share valuable tips that only experience can teach people Like the way you leave your mistakes in, those things help
Yes Andy, that saying is never far from my mind, but clearly wasn't on Tuesday morning! I think the problem came from relying too heavily on my Leica laser measure which, brilliant tool though it is, tends to over egg the measurement by a mm or two when compared to how you'd manually measure with a tape. Plus if anything the drawers that I had installed were if anything a bit loose in the runners so I was keen to get it bang on, which clearly I didn't 🤦 I did experiment in the evening to see if I could take a drawer apart and it wasn't having any of it!
@@CharlieDIYte the skill in any job is not so much about not making mistakes, but knowing how to get out of them when you do make them. Trust me, we all make mistakes. Yours is quite a refreshing, no ego and real kind of channel. Keep up the great work.
I recently discovered your channel, and I have been binging all of your videos. You have given me the confidence and knowledge to start my own under stairs cupboard. Your videos are excellent. The content, knowledge, explanation, and production values are great. Keep up the great work. Thank you.
Hi Charlie, ive had a big surprise... Having to rush the last two mdf doors, i decided to skip using any sealer, primer or anything! I went straight to Matt Emulsion. In one coat the job was done. I did a second coat and went over the edges a couple of times. Job done super fast and super cheap. In the past i have used Zinser BIN but if this works as well as it looks now, i'm a convert. Maybe you could try it too? Matt Emulsion, in a warm well ventilated room.
charlie a great series and you have made a fantastic job as regards to the weight the runners can take i would imagine that the decreased weight is to do with the soft close as if you had a full 40 or 45 kg in the drawers if the dreaers were pushed in very quickly i don't think the soft close piston would take the pressure of the full weight at speed of the drawer stay safe regards james
Such great work you do. I gasped outloud at the 2mil oversize but at least you know a way to resolve it. Looking forward to the next and last video on this project and excited to see what is next! Excellent content as always! Keep it up and stay safe x
Brilliant video again 👍🏼Been looking forward to every video release to see how you are progressing with your wardrobe. Very impressive, to a professional standard. Have you considered using a clear varnish ontop of the painted surface for added protection. I used water based Sandolin Polyurethate Extra Durable Varnish (Satin) with a synthetic brush ontop of a desk I painted with a sponge roller. It resulted in a much smoother surface and also protecting the paint underneath. Looking forward to part 6. Freebies well deserved for all the effort you but into your projects and making these great videos.
Thanks so much for that Pieter 🙏 I did apply lacquer to my kitchen table but when I had to repaint it, I had to scrape off all the lacquer, so I'm a bit jaundiced about doing this, as a result but I'm interested that it worked so well for you - and if course you used a decent quality varnish rather than a cheap lacquer - so thanks for that. Mental note taken!
The most superior primer that is indeed sand-able (like a drywall compound) is Zinser shellac primer. All water based primers that claim themselves as sandable, are not such per se, and just gum sandpaper, some of them more some of them less, and just not even close to shellac. Another benefit of shellac primer it dries very fast, seals wood pile and lays very thin. All this helps to address surface imperfections that wouldn’t be visible easily very quickly. Basically as you finish with one panel the other already dry and ready for next iteration or top coat.
Thanks mate. Some wise advice there. Interestingly I'm back to BIN on the drawers and I agree it sands much better, and I like your comment about the imperfections. I'm going to do a quick video on painting MDF end grain possibly this week and I think I'll give this a shout out 👍🏻
What a brilliant walk through Charlie . Love how you go over everything the highs and lows. I myself am at the drawer stage now and appreciate the drawer runner advice. I know exactly what you have talked about regarding distance if the drawer cheeks and runners space of runners either side.. .lm off upstairs with the runners and a drawer to check yet again before I commit to the final assembly. Could I ask did you do two coats of primer and 2 coats of Johnson’s eggshell. Also the shelf pegs what router bit did you use to cut the notch out for the inserts for the pegs. Very inspiring work thanks 🙏
I highly recommend you upgrade your jigsaw to the 240v erbaur one from Screwfix for £50. I did recently and it's brilliant and also has a good dust port so has saved me having to constantly blow dust out of the way 🙂 Done a cracking job, mistakes and all 👍
if you want to minimize the look of the bottom of the drawer, you can route a bevel along the bottom edge so it either looks smaller or invisible. you may need to countersink your screws depending on how deep a bevel you want.
@@CharlieDIYte Awesome, that's some achievement, nice one! (I'm interpreting your reply as your wife is now running the business and not that you've left your wife!)
I hate you Charlie 😁 Woke at 6:00am Grabbed phone (Cos you do don't you) Tapped TH-cam and got presented with Video #1 in the feed Just finished binge watching #4 but need to get my sorry arse out of bed so can't watch the rest just yet How very dare you make so many clever, interesting and enjoyable videos 😊
Oh amazing video Charlie. Youre slowly but surely getting there lovey. Looks great so far. Oh and youre definitely forgiven for accepting a freebie....who wouldnt....take care as always. And dont forget its a short week this week and next week
Love your videos Charlie and I’ll be taking on a similar alcove wardrobe build soon. Can I please ask about your paint choice and why you chose the Acrylic Eggshell from Johnstones? I hand painted some pine bedroom furniture a few years ago with Johnstones Eggshell (oil based) and the coverage was fantastic on top of Leyland Acrylic Primer Undercoat. I was planning to use the oil based eggshell again but wondered whether to try the water-based acrylic eggshell this time. Also, have you ever considered finishing with a few coats of Briwax furniture polish to add to the durability of the finish?
Thanks Stuart, chuffed you find them useful. If you're used to the oil based don't go acrylic. You'll be so disappointed! I went water based because there was SO MUCH to paint I would have been waiting for days for everything to dry, and given the time of year, it would have been done inside the house - so lots of fumes. Why disappointed? Because I've had the odd chip but the main issue is the paint scuffing when you open a drawer and the door isn't completely open and the drawer hits it. I'll be applying a protective top layer and doing a video on this at some point. Minwax polycrylic coating and Polyvine decorators varnish are two products recommended by viewers, and a decorator on my Discord forum recommends Tikkurilla Kiva 10 or Blockade Rock Top which I suspect are much better than the previous two.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks for elaborating Charlie and it’ll be very interesting to see your next video then. I’ve been very impressed with how the oil based eggshell with Briwax on top has held up on the drawers I painted. There’s been no discernible chips in the last 6-7 years and the furniture is in our main bedroom so is used daily. Look forward to seeing what you make of the more specialist top/protective coats.
If you need a good filler that won’t go off as quickly as 2 pack. Try Samet! a cabinet maker friend put me on to it. It applies like a stiff icing sugar paste and is super fine, it’s used for filling veneers and can be used to fill edge grain of MDF. I’ve found it’s perfect for filling screw holes, nail holes and moulding joints 👍
Great video Charlie would you give me some advice on a mitre saw for a bit of DIY was looking at a erbauer and a evolution would appreciate if you could reply thanks. Love the channel keep up the good work
Thanks Paul. I would recommend the Evolution. So much tool for your money and my father in law had an Erbauer and I found the blade a real pain to change. I've got the R255SMS single bevel 240v, Product code 1062X on Screwfix but annoyingly out of stock right now. It is available on Amazon though amzn.to/3xaml2S but more expensive.
Thanks Keith. I thought about that. The only problem is that when the runner fully extends, you will see the routed channel so I think shaving a couple of mm off the frames is the quickest and neatest solution. This wouldn't have happened if I had just used my tape measure rather than the laser - which I've realised is 2mm over calibrated 🤦
Charlie, just in the middle of a similar build myself and approaching the draw dilemma. If you had gaps between each draw would you have needed to do the draw frames? As the hinges wouldn't catch/block the movement of the draw? I'm asking as I've fit the hinges one side and didn't think about the frame until watching this. Great stuff though mate, love all your videos 👍
I've done the same with a drawer where I built it and it was too wide being just ever so tight on the runners. I used the router and took 1mm off each side just where the runners mounted and it seemed ok. I now tend to just take 26mm off the internal cabinet width to get the external drawer width instead of shooting for absolute perfection. The runners have that little bit of play anyway.
Reassuring to hear I'm not the only one - thanks for that 👊🏻 The problem was my Leica laser. My carpenter mate was over the other day and we compared two measurements using the laser and my Tajima tape measure and the laser (which I completely relied on for all those drawers) was 2mm wider. I thought about routing but when the runner goes into its double extension you'd see a wider channel so I'd rather trim the frames. Yes, better to under egg it, plus someone pointed out to me that you can bend out the tabs on the runner to micro adjust it.
The drawers are usually not constructed with the base screwed into the walls because all the load from the contents is transferred to the base instead of being more evenly distributed. With enough fasteners, it's probably fine but mechanically it's less stable.
I get that. However with glue and screws it's far stronger than it needs to be / or to put it another way, it won't fail due to weight placed in it, and with this method it gives us DIYers an opportunity to get our drawers perfectly square.
Really looking forward to the finished product. I do wonder though - wouldn't it have been easier to buy prefab drawers like the ones you get from IKEA and install them instead? (Obviously I know you're doing everything from scratch) but I'm just thinking from an efficiency and cost perspective.
Possibly. The Pax system seems quite well received. I wonder if they would be as durable though. Plus, it's not nearly as much fun as making them yourself (though I'm not sure my wife would agree 🙄).
Hi Charlie, have you used that Kregg jig for Concealed hinges? I'm thinking for us weekend DIYers, its a good tool for quick consistent fits. Ive just finished all my doors with butt hinges but if I'd had the jig, i wouldve tried Concealed hinges
Love these videos. Is there any reason not to use ply, instead of mdf? Also, I'm considering painting my pieces before putting them together, so I can spray them - is that inadvisable? I'll give them a coat of clear polyurethane too, which will hopefully mean only minimal touching up, once installed. Thank.
If you done it again. Would you make the drawers first and then make the stand offs afterwards to fit? This would mean make the drawer, then take the dim off for the runners and the gap to make the standoffs.
I don't think there's much in it between the two methods. My problem was that I relied entirely on the measurements pinged off my Leica laser measure. I had a carpenter mate over last week and we measured a random distance (from the edge of the kitchen table to the wall) and the tape measure came in 2mm shorter. So the laser is over calibrated. On tapes like my Tajima you can butt up the tape against the wall, measure the distance and then add the length of the tape to work out the final length, and to make your life even easier the amount you have to add is on the back of the tape.
@@CharlieDIYte I think doing it that way you could make all the drawers in one go and make the stand off to fit. I have the same Leica D2. It's really accurate. Don't know how much it would cost to send it to them. It should be more accurate.
That is a very good point and actually on this sort of job, systemising/ mass producing is crucial to cut down on the build time, so I'll respectfully agree with you on that 👍🏻 D'you know what, that Disto D2, much that I love it, has always over egged measurements by a mm or two. When I first got it, I actually sent it back to the supplier for recalibration and he returned it to me saying there was nothing wrong with it, so I just lived with it. I have dropped it occasionally since though which probably hasn't helped.
Great video as usual Charlie. Quick question, did you go for the plunge saw because of the better dust collection over the circular saw and diy track you made?
Basically yes. The dust generated by the Evolution hybrid circular saw was too great, and unfortunately that DIY track I made over the summer has a slight 3mm deviation in the middle. You'll see me explain a bit about the Erbauer in this video near the start th-cam.com/video/4ylDeQXv1k0/w-d-xo.html
Great video Charlie. I have a domino a pocket hole thing and a dowel jig. I am now wondering why I use these when making drawers. Can someone tell me why we all don’t just screw and glue nicely butted drawer boxes or is just art for arts sake
2mm - pah. I've just finished building some full extension under stairs drawers, after carefully measuring one of the drawer widths I started to cut the ply, stopped halfway as it looked wrong. 73mm too small - arrggh I'd forgotten to add the width of the tape measure when doing the internal measurement. I'd even written it at the top of the page of measurements to make sure I didn't forget.
Great job. Do you think using more expensive / quality tools would have helped your mitre joints on the trim that a few people pointed out was a little less than perfect? I use a few similar tools to yourself, but then see people using the likes of Festool gear and wonder if it would make my work better?
From bitter experience I can say that 'cheap' tools are often just superficial copies of the more professional brands. You don't need to pay Festool prices to get quality tools that you don't feel like you're fighting with when you use them. The other advantage of paying more for a Makita/Dewalt/Bosch/etc is that you will be able to get spare parts for it. Try that with Erbauer and you'll be told to buy a new one! The only cheap power tool I've bought which has mostly been an exception to the above is a trim router by Katsu Tools, which is a clone of the Makita. It's a bit rough around the edges, but in use works well. Not sure about its longevity though. And when it does go wrong it'll go in the bin.
Thanks Doug. That was the original get out of jail I had in the back of my mind, in case anything went wrong but the problem is, with the second extension of the draw runner to the narrower bit, you'd see a big ugly routed channel in the side of the drawer, so that's not really an option.
Brilliant videos, only came across your videos last week and I've watched them all!! Great advice and tips. On this video, are you able to cut down the drawer slides or do you order them to size?
No, you can't cut them down. You order them to size - they start at 250mm and then go up in 50mm increments right up to 700mm. Best thing to do is to request a catalogue and then you can thumb through it and pick the right ones. I should have mentioned that in the video - there's always something!! 🤦
Hi ppl, I've recently installed some floating shelves with the exterior made from MDF. I've had some issues with the finish paint surface being sticky. My first shelf had an oil based primer and than two coats of water based top coat. The other two shelves I just painted with the water based top coat but still has the sticky feel to it. They have also had a fair time to dry. Is there something I can do to fix this issue? Thanks
Is the 25kg limit on the soft close not purely down to anything heavier will overwhelm the softclose mechanism and not actually relating to strength of the runner. The runners would take the weight of the non softclose but the spring mechanism wouldn't last.
Why did you decide to use MDF rather than plywood for your wardrobe? Is it a matter of cost or does the material not really matter that much? I'm about to tackle a closet build and I shy away from MDF out of concern for it's ability to hold screws for things like clothing rods.
You sure about those hidden runners needing to be recessed ? Pretty sure I've seen them sitting on flat bottom drawers on some TH-cam video Oh and Soudal fix it all makes excellent caulk. Mould resistant as well. So it's good for caulking those "damp spots" like between the patio doors and threshold/skirting.
I think it depends on the design, Dean. There are obviously single extension runners (like the light weight Ikea ones) that screw to the side, but the majority of full extension runners will require a recess. Thanks for the Soudal recommendation 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte Would the full extension runners always need a recess? Or would having the base of the (false) drawer front lower than the drawer bottom suffice? Enough to hide the runner & fix it to? And could you have done away with the drawer frames entirely by spacing the 110 hinges to coincide with the gaps between the drawers, making the gaps wide enough for the hinge to clear?
The thing I like about this guy is not only the massive amount of information he imparts but his honesty 👍
Thanks Andrew 👊🏻
Blokes a legend. Learned so much over the years. Thanks pal.
Cheers pal, really appreciate that 👌👊
A veritable treasure trove of real life hands on experience. Thanks Charlie👍
You're welcome mate. Thanks for the comment 👍🏻
Nice job Charlie, you deserve a few "freebies" for all the hard work you've put in on this build. Plus all the filming and editing.
Thanks mate. I appreciate that 👊🏻
I'm a fan of BIN but as I'm lazy I too prefer the bulleye 123 because it's waterbased so cleanup is easy........its called BIN as you BIN your brushes afterwards 🤣
Gosforth Handyman.. Much of a muchness,I swear that's Andy's catchphrase! Nice one mate.
Thanks mate 😉👊🏻
Thank you! I made a wardrobe following your guide and it turned out great! 👍
I decided to take on building a wardrobe in my own bedroom after my wife told me we needed a new one, so I was quite relieved to find this series since you videos have helped me out with advice in a few other projects! Looking forward to see how it all turns out!
Thanks Craig. You'll have a lot of fun on the build and it will save you a small fortune.
Thank you for these videos! These are the first ones that make me feel like I can do this too!
Looking good Charlie! I’ve been going through your videos for a while now. As a DIY’er I learn a lot from the pro’s videos but your approach is much more my level. Those errors and mistakes disclosed are sooooo educational! So much more than “step 1. here’s £5,000 of tools you can’t afford. Step 2. Here’s a perfectly finished piece” 😕
Another brilliant video. Thanks Charlie! Looking forward to the next one.
Hi Charlie, great job on the wardrobe! I’ve been following your wardrobe series to aid with the construction of my own built-in wardrobe project.
This series has been a massive help and I have learned a lot from the videos, thanks for that.
I feel as if I need to give something back for all the knowledge and tips you have shown me.
Just the so you know the ball bearing drawer slides you have used in your build are fitted with C-shape cut outs around the screw holes the you can push out with your thumb to eliminate the need for washers and glazing packers to help when the draw is too narrow for the drawer slides or if the carcass is out of square. Just thought I should let you know as I have I learned so much from you.
Great video mate keep up the good work.
Dominic that is a golden tip, thanks so much. It had never occurred to me!! I may well employ that over the rest of the build. Massive thanks 🙏👍🏻
I’m loving this series about the wardrobe build.
Not that I’m ever going to do anything like this myself. I like the way you explain things in a straight forward way. You’re making a fab job of it. Love the colour of them too. 😊
Charlie, this has been a superb series of videos on the wardrobe build. Your candid and honest approach is much appreciated and although I am now on full alert to avoid making the same mistakes that you very kindly pointed out, although I am pretty confident I will undoubtedly invent some of my own. Thank you for sharing.😀👍
Thanks Norman. It's good to hear from you and I really appreciate that. Yes it's been a lot of fun, this and quite a journey, made very fulfilling by the constructive comments from you wonderful people (the cyclonic extractor being a good example, which arose from the gentle reminder that I shouldn't be air blowing all that MDF dust). I'm currently stuck in the inertia of painting all those drawers and getting to grips with some technical issues. I bought a new camcorder which made the edit on that last video a nightmare. I've finally traced the problem down to the video codec I used being HVEC, which my fairly amateur editing software (and actually most professional suites I'm told) couldn't cope with. I'll endeavour to get a video out this week but it hasn't been easy with the kids at home and is all suffering from a few colds (I'd forgotten what they were like, during lock down).
I had to move my side gate and fence. Now I need to change the direction of the gate! Arghhh
Can’t wait to see that video, when you do one. !
Well done Charlie. Almost 250k!! Brilliant as always
Thanks mate. Yes, slowly getting there 👊🏻
You certainly pack a lot into your videos Charlie. I love your honesty too!
This is going to take me days to unpack! Cheers.
Another great video Charlie. Well done!
For internal measuring (eg between the drawer frames) I would recommend a Hultafors TALM3 tape measure (which I bought (Amazon) on a Peter Millard recommendation). It's very well made and the locking mechanism is very good and precise.
Extending the rear part adds exactly 100mm to the measurement markings, so internal measurements are trivial to make...no bending of a normal tape measure and guessing the distance, or needing a laser measure etc.
Also, when locked say across the front of the frame, it acts as a sort of "story stick"...just move it to the back, and if it fits with a gap, you're too wide, if it doesn't fit you're too narrow. And when it's a perfect fit...you're bob on!
Charlie I have to say thank you for the inspiration I’ve gain from your videos. Since watching them all may I add... I’ve built some fitted wardrobes, installed a new basin in the bathroom and a thermostatic value for warm water through the outside tap for the dogs ! Keep up the great work and I’m looking forward to the next instalment ..... 👍
JB, can't thank you enough for all your support of the channel, although I cringe that you had to sit through those early videos with the cheesy music 😬 I'm humbled by what you've achieved from watching them, and you've beaten me to it on the mixer tap for the dog! I've bought something much less sophisticated that will require two taps outside and a shower head, but haven't got round to installing it yet! I've had a bit of a hiatus on the vids the last week, but I hope to get cracking again to finish the wardrobe very shortly. Thanks again 👍
Nice fix with the drawers 👌👍
Thanks mate. 👍
Looking good Charlie after years of fitting those drawers it was only recently I realised how to get the right every time purposely make the drawer boxes 1-2mm small on purpose so take the drawer runner size off then an extra 1-2mm. Then if you look on the back of the runner you'll see u shaped cut outs around some holes not all. Push these tabs out slightly and only fix through these holes with the tabs into your carcase. These take up the difference and centre themselves, just put your drawer in a work it back n forth several times so it centres itself. It might feel stuff 1st time, that's normal. Open n close it a few times and it will be real smooth. Means if your cabinet is a mm or 2 out of square, it's not gonna matter.
Or just shim them - a rare occasion where "you can't put it back on if you take too much off" doesn't matter !
My partner said "It's Line of Duty tonight!" And I said "sod that, I hope it's Charlie's wardrobe build!!!"
That's awesome - hope it didn't disappoint. Maybe I need to make them longer. 🙏👊🏻
Really enjoyed watching this. It's completely put me off ever trying it myself 😂 which is probably a good thing but great to see someone else do it.
Thanks for all your hard work and advice Charlie. I started building this week and your guide has been invaluable!
That's excellent news Ollie. Good luck and let me know if you've got any questions. 👍🏻
This has ben so inspiring Charlie. I do hope we'll see the finished product, I feel that we're all making it with you!
Aw, Rob, I really appreciate that 👊🏻 You certainly will but it might be a few weeks as I've realised I've given myself a lot to do in the final video... Can't thank you enough for the comment - comments have been such a valuable source of inspiration from you wonderful people over the years. Couldn't have done it without you!! 🙏
Love the videos mate! I'm attempting to replace old kitchen cupboard doors with mdf ones, took on board a lot of tips from yourself and hoping to save a fortune by doing them myself! Brilliant videos as well keep them coming 👍
Thanks mate. So glad you're finding them useful. You will save a fortune and get a big kick out of it when they're done 💪🏻👍🏻
Great work nice to see all the problems you have along the way and how you have overcome them.using affordable tools
Another great video ! You are so “real” with your projects I don’t feel so bad about my mistakes😊
Thanks, I really appreciate that! Too much water under the bridge over the years to pretend I'm something I'm not 😉 👍🏻
Legend as usual !
Thanks Frank - you guys are the legends for keeping me motivated with the awesome comments 👊🏻
waiting for this video so much! great work Charlie, lots of info and tips. thank you
Thanks so much. Really chuffed you enjoyed it. Sorry for the wait. All that prepwork took for ever!
great videos crazy amount of information and detail in th videos
Thanks buddy. Yes they take too long to put together 🤦🏻♂️😉
Slightly unrelated but somehow this video gave me an inspiration to do the floating shelves next to the fireplace before the outside projects kick off this spring.
Loving this series! Really made me want to do a full rebuild of the previous owners fitted wardrobes, but for now, I'll settle with some faker shaker doors and maybe do a rebuild in a few years
Thanks 👍 The faker shaker doors are coming up in a week or two - I've got rather bogged down with the painting the last couple of weeks but am going to try and get a vid out this weekend talking about painting the MDF end grain.
@@CharlieDIYte morning mate. Ah great, I'll keep an eye out!
I'm not 100% sure on thickness of doors but also how wide to do the frame pieces, be great if you could give a quick 20-30 seconds on ideal ratios etc.
My doors are 400x 2400 and was going to do 80mm wide rails etc. 16mm back with 8mm for the rails and I found these easy fix hinges that don't require you to drill out the holes etc for traditional hinges.
Looks fantastic Charlie!! We all make mistakes. Take care
Have a look at some Purdy Dale Elite cutting in brushes. They aren't the cheapest but my word they make cutting in so much easier. I bought the set you can get that has from memory 3 sizes, I use the smallest ones most and rarely the largest. I really do recommend them. Being angled brushes they make such a difference.
Hi mate, and good to hear from you 👊🏻 That's a great recommendation. I'll definitely get some of those.
Nice work with the template for the router on the drawer curves.
Thanks Charlie. That is very helpful. I made couple of wardrobes and really appreciate your valuable tips.
Nice work Charlie. Thanks for all the tips. 👍
I learned a great trick for filling gaps: just use drywall compound. I always have a huge tub of that lying around anyway, and it works fantastic* to shove into the holes so the caulk can just sit on the surface and look neat and flush. In my old rickety house I filled a half inch gap with that stuff and years later it still looked great, no caulk cracks or shifting at all.
Another great video Charlie! I was particularly pleased about the attention you gave to measuring for the drawer runners.I have had drawer runners at home for a while hoping to make drawers for our pots and frying pan cupboard, need to work outside which has not been possible recently. I have been terrified about getting the measurements wrong. You showing the pitfalls gives me confidence to just keep thinking and checking.
Thanks Edward. Ultimately, to be safe, you can put it together first, check it fits and then glue it, but I wouldn't have got into this mess if I had just relief on good old fashioned tape measure and eye, rather than my laser, which always gives you a slightly longer measure.
oh my god I would LOVE THESE!!! I think I am going to watch all your videos and learn how to DIY. One thing that I have always wanted is a Storage Sofa. If you buy a sofa with some sort of storage - it has a spare mattress inside it, and is tailored to pull the mattress out and it is spring loaded to slot into place. This is not a simply sofa that you can remove the spare mattress then you are left with storage space - removing the mattress, leaves you with nothing underneath. I watched a video where a girl cut out the cover from under the sofa (by turning it upside down, and that gave a tiny bit of room to take the 'soft' underbed storage bags (maximum 4 inches in height, but it did help her with the bedding. I never understand why a lot of beds and sofas are never geared to have massive storage space ( I know you do get drawers in beds) - I wish you could get drawers in sofas. People do not have the space they wish they had.
I moved into an older home and there is NO CUPBOARDS!!! I need so much storage space, all my furniture needs to have storage. I am working on making this a reality. I am going to watch your fitted wardrobe and make a cupboard in the living room as well as bedroom!! If you every get the chance can you do storage??? all different types of storage - vertical use of space.
Ah, so glad you found it useful. Yes storage is a problem for all of us. Do let me know how you get on with those 👍
Nice job Charlie - A product I've found really good for caulking wider gaps is 'everbuild coving adhesive and joint filler'. It's essential a thicker version of normal caulk and works really well on wood. Used it quite a bit in the past and never had issues with cracking 👍
That's a lovely tip, that's going straight into my resource section. I'll give that a go sometime. Many thanks 👍🏻
Another really informative update Charlie. Can't wait to see the end result 🙂👍
Thanks for this series Charlie, amazing work as usual 👏. Look forward to the full compilation of the build 😀
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Sorry about your technical problems...I can't help. I had to press the power button and the volume button at the same time whilst keeping my fingers crossed this week. Had to lie down afterwards! I also treated myself to a new tool which I could hear laughing as I opened the case...it must be me. Keep up the good work Charlie as always a pleasure to watch.
Your videos are very helpful, as you work in the trade so your experience and others, you can share valuable tips that only experience can teach people
Like the way you leave your mistakes in, those things help
Thanks, I really appreciate that and am chuffed you find my videos useful.
As a 55 year old carpenter, the adage "measure twice, cut once" proves right again. Throughly enjoyed the series. Keep up the great work.
Yes Andy, that saying is never far from my mind, but clearly wasn't on Tuesday morning! I think the problem came from relying too heavily on my Leica laser measure which, brilliant tool though it is, tends to over egg the measurement by a mm or two when compared to how you'd manually measure with a tape. Plus if anything the drawers that I had installed were if anything a bit loose in the runners so I was keen to get it bang on, which clearly I didn't 🤦 I did experiment in the evening to see if I could take a drawer apart and it wasn't having any of it!
@@CharlieDIYte the skill in any job is not so much about not making mistakes, but knowing how to get out of them when you do make them. Trust me, we all make mistakes. Yours is quite a refreshing, no ego and real kind of channel. Keep up the great work.
I recently discovered your channel, and I have been binging all of your videos.
You have given me the confidence and knowledge to start my own under stairs cupboard.
Your videos are excellent.
The content, knowledge, explanation, and production values are great.
Keep up the great work.
Thank you.
Thanks so much mate - really appreciate all the binging! Drop me a comment if you ever have any questions 👍🏻
Hi Charlie, ive had a big surprise...
Having to rush the last two mdf doors, i decided to skip using any sealer, primer or anything!
I went straight to Matt Emulsion. In one coat the job was done. I did a second coat and went over the edges a couple of times.
Job done super fast and super cheap.
In the past i have used Zinser BIN but if this works as well as it looks now, i'm a convert.
Maybe you could try it too?
Matt Emulsion, in a warm well ventilated room.
charlie a great series and you have made a fantastic job
as regards to the weight the runners can take i would imagine that the decreased weight is to do with the soft close as if you had a full 40 or 45 kg in the drawers if the dreaers were pushed in very quickly i don't think the soft close piston would take the pressure of the full weight at speed of the drawer stay safe
regards
james
Thanks James. Yes I suspected it was something to do with that. To be honest I would have been very happy with the standard runners.👍🏻
Such great work you do. I gasped outloud at the 2mil oversize but at least you know a way to resolve it.
Looking forward to the next and last video on this project and excited to see what is next!
Excellent content as always! Keep it up and stay safe x
Every time watching your videos is so useful! Nice job there!
Keep on man! \m/
Another great vlog, and with lots of very helpful & useful hints n tips 👍
Thanks John 👍🏻
Great video as always Charlie. 👍
Bro you are really good 👌 and too honest
Brilliant video again 👍🏼Been looking forward to every video release to see how you are progressing with your wardrobe. Very impressive, to a professional standard. Have you considered using a clear varnish ontop of the painted surface for added protection. I used water based Sandolin Polyurethate Extra Durable Varnish (Satin) with a synthetic brush ontop of a desk I painted with a sponge roller. It resulted in a much smoother surface and also protecting the paint underneath. Looking forward to part 6. Freebies well deserved for all the effort you but into your projects and making these great videos.
Thanks so much for that Pieter 🙏 I did apply lacquer to my kitchen table but when I had to repaint it, I had to scrape off all the lacquer, so I'm a bit jaundiced about doing this, as a result but I'm interested that it worked so well for you - and if course you used a decent quality varnish rather than a cheap lacquer - so thanks for that. Mental note taken!
Really good video, great pacing and editing and packed with info. May your postbox fill with freebies 👍
The most superior primer that is indeed sand-able (like a drywall compound) is Zinser shellac primer. All water based primers that claim themselves as sandable, are not such per se, and just gum sandpaper, some of them more some of them less, and just not even close to shellac. Another benefit of shellac primer it dries very fast, seals wood pile and lays very thin. All this helps to address surface imperfections that wouldn’t be visible easily very quickly. Basically as you finish with one panel the other already dry and ready for next iteration or top coat.
Thanks mate. Some wise advice there. Interestingly I'm back to BIN on the drawers and I agree it sands much better, and I like your comment about the imperfections. I'm going to do a quick video on painting MDF end grain possibly this week and I think I'll give this a shout out 👍🏻
Well done Charlie great work , amazing detail as always I’m really looking forward to seeing the finished product . 👏🏻👏🏻
Great build , well done
Thanks 👍🏻
Nice drawers Charlie!
Thanks Paul. 👍🏻
nice one mr darcy... :------- )
Ha, thanks 😉
What a brilliant walk through Charlie . Love how you go over everything the highs and lows. I myself am at the drawer stage now and appreciate the drawer runner advice. I know exactly what you have talked about regarding distance if the drawer cheeks and runners space of runners either side.. .lm off upstairs with the runners and a drawer to check yet again before I commit to the final assembly. Could I ask did you do two coats of primer and 2 coats of Johnson’s eggshell. Also the shelf pegs what router bit did you use to cut the notch out for the inserts for the pegs.
Very inspiring work thanks 🙏
I highly recommend you upgrade your jigsaw to the 240v erbaur one from Screwfix for £50. I did recently and it's brilliant and also has a good dust port so has saved me having to constantly blow dust out of the way 🙂
Done a cracking job, mistakes and all 👍
Thanks Charles, I'll take a look at that. 👍🏻
Nice work
Thanks 👍🏻
I'm still waiting to fit my bathroom fan Charlie! 😂
Thanks
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment, Mike 👍
if you want to minimize the look of the bottom of the drawer, you can route a bevel along the bottom edge so it either looks smaller or invisible. you may need to countersink your screws depending on how deep a bevel you want.
Another great job and video Charlie, thank you. You mentioned "previous job", have I missed a new job... full time TH-camr?
Thanks Chris. Yes, I ran a soft furnishings company with my wife, but I've left her to run it now and am doing this full time.
@@CharlieDIYte Awesome, that's some achievement, nice one!
(I'm interpreting your reply as your wife is now running the business and not that you've left your wife!)
Im in dominican rep on my honeymoon having a beer on the balcony and im like video 4 into this .. hahahahaha love this channel
I hate you Charlie 😁
Woke at 6:00am
Grabbed phone (Cos you do don't you)
Tapped TH-cam and got presented with Video #1 in the feed
Just finished binge watching #4 but need to get my sorry arse out of bed so can't watch the rest just yet
How very dare you make so many clever, interesting and enjoyable videos 😊
It’s coming on....👍🏻
Oh amazing video Charlie. Youre slowly but surely getting there lovey. Looks great so far. Oh and youre definitely forgiven for accepting a freebie....who wouldnt....take care as always. And dont forget its a short week this week and next week
Thanks Val, and great to hear from you. You take care too 👍🏻
Fantastic videos Charlie, I'd be interested to know how much it cost in materials?
Try the new 123 plus bin. It’s in a turquoise tin. Night and day to the old 123. I’m a decorator by trade.
Thanks mate. I'll check that out. 👍🏻
Love your videos Charlie and I’ll be taking on a similar alcove wardrobe build soon.
Can I please ask about your paint choice and why you chose the Acrylic Eggshell from Johnstones?
I hand painted some pine bedroom furniture a few years ago with Johnstones Eggshell (oil based) and the coverage was fantastic on top of Leyland Acrylic Primer Undercoat.
I was planning to use the oil based eggshell again but wondered whether to try the water-based acrylic eggshell this time.
Also, have you ever considered finishing with a few coats of Briwax furniture polish to add to the durability of the finish?
Thanks Stuart, chuffed you find them useful. If you're used to the oil based don't go acrylic. You'll be so disappointed! I went water based because there was SO MUCH to paint I would have been waiting for days for everything to dry, and given the time of year, it would have been done inside the house - so lots of fumes. Why disappointed? Because I've had the odd chip but the main issue is the paint scuffing when you open a drawer and the door isn't completely open and the drawer hits it. I'll be applying a protective top layer and doing a video on this at some point. Minwax polycrylic coating and Polyvine decorators varnish are two products recommended by viewers, and a decorator on my Discord forum recommends Tikkurilla Kiva 10 or Blockade Rock Top which I suspect are much better than the previous two.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks for elaborating Charlie and it’ll be very interesting to see your next video then.
I’ve been very impressed with how the oil based eggshell with Briwax on top has held up on the drawers I painted. There’s been no discernible chips in the last 6-7 years and the furniture is in our main bedroom so is used daily.
Look forward to seeing what you make of the more specialist top/protective coats.
If you need a good filler that won’t go off as quickly as 2 pack. Try Samet! a cabinet maker friend put me on to it. It applies like a stiff icing sugar paste and is super fine, it’s used for filling veneers and can be used to fill edge grain of MDF. I’ve found it’s perfect for filling screw holes, nail holes and moulding joints 👍
That's a great tip. Is it rock hard when it's gone off and any shrinkage?
Not rock hard but stands up to a bit of abuse 👍
Great video Charlie would you give me some advice on a mitre saw for a bit of DIY was looking at a erbauer and a evolution would appreciate if you could reply thanks. Love the channel keep up the good work
Thanks Paul. I would recommend the Evolution. So much tool for your money and my father in law had an Erbauer and I found the blade a real pain to change. I've got the R255SMS single bevel 240v, Product code 1062X on Screwfix but annoyingly out of stock right now. It is available on Amazon though amzn.to/3xaml2S but more expensive.
@@CharlieDIYte thanks for that Charlie appreciate it
Charlie. Top work. Will inevitably steal some ideas for the desk that I’ll make in a few months. Which is the caulking guide / kit used?
Another option to gain the extra space for the over sized drawers would be to recess the runners in the sides
Thanks Keith. I thought about that. The only problem is that when the runner fully extends, you will see the routed channel so I think shaving a couple of mm off the frames is the quickest and neatest solution. This wouldn't have happened if I had just used my tape measure rather than the laser - which I've realised is 2mm over calibrated 🤦
Charlie, just in the middle of a similar build myself and approaching the draw dilemma.
If you had gaps between each draw would you have needed to do the draw frames? As the hinges wouldn't catch/block the movement of the draw? I'm asking as I've fit the hinges one side and didn't think about the frame until watching this.
Great stuff though mate, love all your videos 👍
I've done the same with a drawer where I built it and it was too wide being just ever so tight on the runners. I used the router and took 1mm off each side just where the runners mounted and it seemed ok. I now tend to just take 26mm off the internal cabinet width to get the external drawer width instead of shooting for absolute perfection. The runners have that little bit of play anyway.
Reassuring to hear I'm not the only one - thanks for that 👊🏻 The problem was my Leica laser. My carpenter mate was over the other day and we compared two measurements using the laser and my Tajima tape measure and the laser (which I completely relied on for all those drawers) was 2mm wider. I thought about routing but when the runner goes into its double extension you'd see a wider channel so I'd rather trim the frames. Yes, better to under egg it, plus someone pointed out to me that you can bend out the tabs on the runner to micro adjust it.
The drawers are usually not constructed with the base screwed into the walls because all the load from the contents is transferred to the base instead of being more evenly distributed. With enough fasteners, it's probably fine but mechanically it's less stable.
I get that. However with glue and screws it's far stronger than it needs to be / or to put it another way, it won't fail due to weight placed in it, and with this method it gives us DIYers an opportunity to get our drawers perfectly square.
Really looking forward to the finished product. I do wonder though - wouldn't it have been easier to buy prefab drawers like the ones you get from IKEA and install them instead? (Obviously I know you're doing everything from scratch) but I'm just thinking from an efficiency and cost perspective.
Possibly. The Pax system seems quite well received. I wonder if they would be as durable though. Plus, it's not nearly as much fun as making them yourself (though I'm not sure my wife would agree 🙄).
Hi Charlie, have you used that Kregg jig for Concealed hinges? I'm thinking for us weekend DIYers, its a good tool for quick consistent fits.
Ive just finished all my doors with butt hinges but if I'd had the jig, i wouldve tried Concealed hinges
Love these videos. Is there any reason not to use ply, instead of mdf? Also, I'm considering painting my pieces before putting them together, so I can spray them - is that inadvisable? I'll give them a coat of clear polyurethane too, which will hopefully mean only minimal touching up, once installed. Thank.
If you done it again. Would you make the drawers first and then make the stand offs afterwards to fit? This would mean make the drawer, then take the dim off for the runners and the gap to make the standoffs.
I don't think there's much in it between the two methods. My problem was that I relied entirely on the measurements pinged off my Leica laser measure. I had a carpenter mate over last week and we measured a random distance (from the edge of the kitchen table to the wall) and the tape measure came in 2mm shorter. So the laser is over calibrated. On tapes like my Tajima you can butt up the tape against the wall, measure the distance and then add the length of the tape to work out the final length, and to make your life even easier the amount you have to add is on the back of the tape.
@@CharlieDIYte I think doing it that way you could make all the drawers in one go and make the stand off to fit. I have the same Leica D2. It's really accurate. Don't know how much it would cost to send it to them. It should be more accurate.
That is a very good point and actually on this sort of job, systemising/ mass producing is crucial to cut down on the build time, so I'll respectfully agree with you on that 👍🏻 D'you know what, that Disto D2, much that I love it, has always over egged measurements by a mm or two. When I first got it, I actually sent it back to the supplier for recalibration and he returned it to me saying there was nothing wrong with it, so I just lived with it. I have dropped it occasionally since though which probably hasn't helped.
You can route a chamfer in the base to hide them
Sorry mate, to hide what 🤔
Great video as usual Charlie. Quick question, did you go for the plunge saw because of the better dust collection over the circular saw and diy track you made?
Basically yes. The dust generated by the Evolution hybrid circular saw was too great, and unfortunately that DIY track I made over the summer has a slight 3mm deviation in the middle. You'll see me explain a bit about the Erbauer in this video near the start th-cam.com/video/4ylDeQXv1k0/w-d-xo.html
@@CharlieDIYte Great stuff, thanks Charlie! Made my own track and the circular saw dust collection really is terrible! Will investigate a track saw..
Great video Charlie. I have a domino a pocket hole thing and a dowel jig. I am now wondering why I use these when making drawers. Can someone tell me why we all don’t just screw and glue nicely butted drawer boxes or is just art for arts sake
I think dominos / dowels make alignment easier when assembling
2mm - pah. I've just finished building some full extension under stairs drawers, after carefully measuring one of the drawer widths I started to cut the ply, stopped halfway as it looked wrong.
73mm too small - arrggh I'd forgotten to add the width of the tape measure when doing the internal measurement. I'd even written it at the top of the page of measurements to make sure I didn't forget.
Gutting! I've done so many things like that. Typically when I'm a bit tired, or distracted..
Great job. Do you think using more expensive / quality tools would have helped your mitre joints on the trim that a few people pointed out was a little less than perfect? I use a few similar tools to yourself, but then see people using the likes of Festool gear and wonder if it would make my work better?
From bitter experience I can say that 'cheap' tools are often just superficial copies of the more professional brands. You don't need to pay Festool prices to get quality tools that you don't feel like you're fighting with when you use them. The other advantage of paying more for a Makita/Dewalt/Bosch/etc is that you will be able to get spare parts for it. Try that with Erbauer and you'll be told to buy a new one!
The only cheap power tool I've bought which has mostly been an exception to the above is a trim router by Katsu Tools, which is a clone of the Makita. It's a bit rough around the edges, but in use works well. Not sure about its longevity though. And when it does go wrong it'll go in the bin.
Rather than taking your spacers out and reducing by 2mm you could rout a 1mm recess into the draws on each side,
Thanks Doug. That was the original get out of jail I had in the back of my mind, in case anything went wrong but the problem is, with the second extension of the draw runner to the narrower bit, you'd see a big ugly routed channel in the side of the drawer, so that's not really an option.
Brilliant videos, only came across your videos last week and I've watched them all!! Great advice and tips. On this video, are you able to cut down the drawer slides or do you order them to size?
No, you can't cut them down. You order them to size - they start at 250mm and then go up in 50mm increments right up to 700mm. Best thing to do is to request a catalogue and then you can thumb through it and pick the right ones. I should have mentioned that in the video - there's always something!! 🤦
There always is 😂 your very thorough and videos are great for someone trying to learn how things are done 👍
Hi ppl, I've recently installed some floating shelves with the exterior made from MDF.
I've had some issues with the finish paint surface being sticky. My first shelf had an oil based primer and than two coats of water based top coat. The other two shelves I just painted with the water based top coat but still has the sticky feel to it.
They have also had a fair time to dry.
Is there something I can do to fix this issue? Thanks
Is the 25kg limit on the soft close not purely down to anything heavier will overwhelm the softclose mechanism and not actually relating to strength of the runner.
The runners would take the weight of the non softclose but the spring mechanism wouldn't last.
Yes I think that's it, Paul. I suspect I'll be around 25kg so should be ok.
Hi, what colour paint dud you use for this project?
Why did you decide to use MDF rather than plywood for your wardrobe? Is it a matter of cost or does the material not really matter that much? I'm about to tackle a closet build and I shy away from MDF out of concern for it's ability to hold screws for things like clothing rods.
You sure about those hidden runners needing to be recessed ? Pretty sure I've seen them sitting on flat bottom drawers on some TH-cam video
Oh and Soudal fix it all makes excellent caulk. Mould resistant as well. So it's good for caulking those "damp spots" like between the patio doors and threshold/skirting.
I think it depends on the design, Dean. There are obviously single extension runners (like the light weight Ikea ones) that screw to the side, but the majority of full extension runners will require a recess. Thanks for the Soudal recommendation 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte Would the full extension runners always need a recess? Or would having the base of the (false) drawer front lower than the drawer bottom suffice? Enough to hide the runner & fix it to? And could you have done away with the drawer frames entirely by spacing the 110 hinges to coincide with the gaps between the drawers, making the gaps wide enough for the hinge to clear?