wow! I really hated that I did not have a sway bar disconnect on our bronco. Problem solved! I really appreciate the detailed explanation on wiring it! Can't wait to check your other content to see what else I can upgrade! Thanks!
Excellent job on the electrical sway bar installation. Thanks for posting the video. I wasn’t quite happy either that my Wildtrack didn’t have one. Demo at the end was icing on the cake. You are genius!
Thanks for the video, just received the stabilizer and Connector. Have to order the fire sleeve, then installing on my 23 wildtrak. In my 60's and didn't feel like crawling under it to disconnect pins to go off-road
Hello, I have a brand new wildtrack. Installing this part - would I lose any functionality and stability of the drive? Wildtrack is made for faster drive through dirt and rough surfaces and comes with sports mode, any harm installing this and losing any of the bells and whistles of wildtrack driving capabilities?
Any reason I couldn’t splice into those wires on my factory setup so that I can select it either through the default switch or override it anytime I want? Would really like to be able to use it in 2wd
This is just my prediction, since I haven't tried it, but I see 2 things happening. 1) if you leave everything connected, but also splice into the wires and supply power to the disconnect, it's going to backfeed power to the computer, probably triggering an error, and possibly damaging the electronics. 2) If you clip the wires and run them to the switch in the same manner I did, when you flip the switch then the computer is going to see the sway bar not in the commanded state, triggering an error code. If you disconnect the sway bar from the factory wiring entirely, and wire it up like I did you will definitely get error codes. The issue is that I've only connected to the actuator solenoids. There are also sensors on the actuator that tell the computer what the sway bar status is. In a non-badlands this is fine because the computer isn't looking for input from those sensors. In a badlands however the computer knows there should be sensors, and they should be showing it what it wants to see. If the computer wants it to be locked, but it's unlocked, you'll get an error. If it doesn't see the sensors at all you'll get an error. I'd be willing to bet that the majority of people with Badlands who have gotten sway bar errors didn't actually have a problem with the sway bar, but rather with the position sensors. I guess that's a long way of saying that if you have a badlands, you're probably stuck with the computer nannies.
This is going to sound very sarcastic but I actually mean it. I wish I was in the position to where I could buy one car and while that car is getting made by another one. Just seems so awesome to me.
Well the full truth is that when i ordered it, i couldn't afford it either. Things changed, I sold a very nice Jeep we built for the shop, and a year later the shop could afford it, but ford hadn't built it so I bought a different one for the business. 7 more months later they finally built it, and i couldn't afford a second one, but also couldn't pass up on the huge discount that it came with via price protection, so I talked a family member into buying it instead.
Great detailed video… I have a Wildtrak as well and would like to do this. Besides the flex test is there any way to know it is disengaged or rather engaged? Can the swaybar re engage at any angle or does it have to be on level ground?
It's pretty noticeable in the roll characteristics when you're driving, but other than the switch position and light on the switch there isn't any indication of if it's engaged or not. You can turn the switch off the switch any time, and it reconnects once it gets to the "level" position. You don't have to be on flat ground to re-engage, but it won't actually reconnect until the suspension gets back to center.
Appreciate the video. Exactly what I was looking for. Do you know if this works with the Fox shocks on the 23 Wildtrak? I would think it’s the same but at the same time, I wouldn’t be surprised if Ford switched other parts to make things not compatible. Thanks
as far as I can tell all they did was swap different shocks onto the 23 wildtraks. I don't see any reason it wouldn't still fit, as the connections at the control arms are still the same.
The Bronco Raptor has sway bar disconnect as well. And I’ve got a Ranger Raptor on order. It’s got front and rear lockers……I’m wondering if this video would help me reference a Bronco Raptor disconnect into my Ranger Raptor!?!?
The ranger raptor has more in common with the standard bronco than the bronco raptor. The entire front frame and suspension sections are the same as far as we could tell from the Ford 3D models. The badlands disconnect would likely bolt right up. No idea if the braptor one would or not.
@paulvasta6159 nope, it's been flawless. I generally flip the switch right after airing down and leave it disconnected until i hit pavement again. Bronco has no idea it's even there.
You are a genius. I have the Bronco Raptor and hate that I have to be in 4 wheel drive just to disconnect. A lot of trails where I’m at in the Rocky Mountains benefit from the sway bar disconnected with ruts and rocks, plus gives a more plush ride, but hate that I have to run around in 4 wheel drive just to disconnect. 🙄 Just ordered the wiring harness in your description. Going to keep all the factory wiring as-is so I can just plug back in and be back to stock, but do the wiring up to the AUX switches so I can disconnect whenever I want. Curious if you’d know if I might throw codes? 🤞😅
I would be surprised if it didn't throw some kind of code, but it might depend on how you hook it up. If you unplug the entire assembly the computer will probably throw a code because it's not getting feedback from the sensors. I wonder if you left the sensors plugged in, while bypassing the solenoid wires what would happen. My guess is that when the sway bar is connected all will be fine, but it'll probably throw an error when you disconnect. The real question is will the error clear when you reconnect?
@@stinkyfabracing oh good point. I’ll see if I can also buy a male version of that plug so I can build me a little bypass without cutting anything and still keeping the connection to the sensors. Thanks for the feedback. 👊😎
The stabilizer has its own sub-harness that goes from the one big plug and splits to the 4 plugs for the solenoids and sensors. For your setup it might be better to find the connectors for the solenoids directly, rather than the one i used that connects to that sub-harness. This way you could just unplug the solenoids and then plug your new wiring in without cutting anything.
Like I said in the video, any Ford dealer can order the assembly, or you can just use the ebay link I put in the description. That's where I got this one, and google searching the part number will come up with lots of sources.
Have you tried unlocking Rock Crawling GOAT mode with Forscan? I wonder if it would trigger the disconnect and if that would conflict with the AUX 1 position@@stinkyfabracing
That's not really something you can easily measure. The sway bar does not limit actual travel, it limits articulation. The front tires will still travel up and down the exact same distance, the difference is how easily one side can now compress while the other extends. With a standard sway bar (and with this one connected) both sides are joined by the sway bar. The amount of articulation you get is a product of how much load you put on it and how much the sway bar flexes. You'll get more flex on a downhill with all the weight on the front of the vehicle for example. With the disconnect the sway bar is no longer fighting that articulation.
@michaelnice4753 i didn't, because that's not a very relevant measurement since it will vary with loading. The suspension was never fully compressed in either lift, and even just lifting front vs. Rear gets a different height because of weight transfer. I can say that after disconnecting i was able to lift roughly 4-5 more inches on each end after disconnecting.
@@stnkbg1 I just recently got a totaled out 2021 ford ranger lariat tremor, I plan to install this on that ranger. It’s my understanding that the bronco is built on a modified version of the ranger frame. Would love some measurements to ensure this would “bolt up” to the ranger frame as I plan (hope) to do exactly the same thing on a factory rocker switch on the dash in the ranger. If you need my email or cell phone, let me know
@brock13r technically it doesn't. Once your suspension levels out it reengages in the neutral position. It doesn't like force you back to level or anything.
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wow! I really hated that I did not have a sway bar disconnect on our bronco. Problem solved! I really appreciate the detailed explanation on wiring it! Can't wait to check your other content to see what else I can upgrade! Thanks!
Excellent job on the electrical sway bar installation. Thanks for posting the video. I wasn’t quite happy either that my Wildtrack didn’t have one. Demo at the end was icing on the cake. You are genius!
Thanks for the video, just received the stabilizer and Connector. Have to order the fire sleeve, then installing on my 23 wildtrak. In my 60's and didn't feel like crawling under it to disconnect pins to go off-road
@@RandyPeters-w7q Nice!
Thank you for this video! I was wondering if it could be installed on a non badlands.
I have a Badlands so this obviously doesn't apply to me, but that was an amazing video!
Bad ass bro! I’ve been thinking about this for my outer bank Sasquatch. Thanks!!!
Dude awesome video. My only hang up on a Wildtrak was the missing sway bar disconnect. This solves all my problems!
Does it draw enough amps so you have to use switch one? Or could you use 15 or ten amp switch?
Great Video! Next project for sure
Also , ur skid plates are what I’m looking for, can I get a link for those
Hello,
I have a brand new wildtrack. Installing this part - would I lose any functionality and stability of the drive?
Wildtrack is made for faster drive through dirt and rough surfaces and comes with sports mode,
any harm installing this and losing any of the bells and whistles of wildtrack driving capabilities?
When engaged it's the same as the non disconnect sway bar in your wildtrak. The bronco in the video is a wildtrak as well.
@@stnkbg1 thanks bud:)
Amazing video thanks for the insight. Can you do a follow-up and let us know how it's been working so far.
Don't really need a whole video for that. I flip the switch, it disconnects. I turn the switch off, it reconnects. Flawless!
@stinkyfabracing appreciate the quick response.I will be going this route with my everglades, Bronco. Thanks
Any reason I couldn’t splice into those wires on my factory setup so that I can select it either through the default switch or override it anytime I want? Would really like to be able to use it in 2wd
This is just my prediction, since I haven't tried it, but I see 2 things happening. 1) if you leave everything connected, but also splice into the wires and supply power to the disconnect, it's going to backfeed power to the computer, probably triggering an error, and possibly damaging the electronics. 2) If you clip the wires and run them to the switch in the same manner I did, when you flip the switch then the computer is going to see the sway bar not in the commanded state, triggering an error code. If you disconnect the sway bar from the factory wiring entirely, and wire it up like I did you will definitely get error codes.
The issue is that I've only connected to the actuator solenoids. There are also sensors on the actuator that tell the computer what the sway bar status is. In a non-badlands this is fine because the computer isn't looking for input from those sensors. In a badlands however the computer knows there should be sensors, and they should be showing it what it wants to see. If the computer wants it to be locked, but it's unlocked, you'll get an error. If it doesn't see the sensors at all you'll get an error. I'd be willing to bet that the majority of people with Badlands who have gotten sway bar errors didn't actually have a problem with the sway bar, but rather with the position sensors.
I guess that's a long way of saying that if you have a badlands, you're probably stuck with the computer nannies.
This is going to sound very sarcastic but I actually mean it. I wish I was in the position to where I could buy one car and while that car is getting made by another one. Just seems so awesome to me.
Well the full truth is that when i ordered it, i couldn't afford it either. Things changed, I sold a very nice Jeep we built for the shop, and a year later the shop could afford it, but ford hadn't built it so I bought a different one for the business. 7 more months later they finally built it, and i couldn't afford a second one, but also couldn't pass up on the huge discount that it came with via price protection, so I talked a family member into buying it instead.
Question on bolts. Did the disconnect come with new bolts or did you have to use the ones that came off the stock sway bar?
It uses the same bolts
@@stnkbg1Thank you! Ordered the sway bar disconnect and have the harness. Going to install as soon as it gets here.
Great detailed video… I have a Wildtrak as well and would like to do this. Besides the flex test is there any way to know it is disengaged or rather engaged? Can the swaybar re engage at any angle or does it have to be on level ground?
It's pretty noticeable in the roll characteristics when you're driving, but other than the switch position and light on the switch there isn't any indication of if it's engaged or not.
You can turn the switch off the switch any time, and it reconnects once it gets to the "level" position. You don't have to be on flat ground to re-engage, but it won't actually reconnect until the suspension gets back to center.
@@stinkyfabracing interesting! Thanks for the reply. I’ll have to add this to the list!
Appreciate the video. Exactly what I was looking for. Do you know if this works with the Fox shocks on the 23 Wildtrak? I would think it’s the same but at the same time, I wouldn’t be surprised if Ford switched other parts to make things not compatible.
Thanks
as far as I can tell all they did was swap different shocks onto the 23 wildtraks. I don't see any reason it wouldn't still fit, as the connections at the control arms are still the same.
Thank you
The Bronco Raptor has sway bar disconnect as well. And I’ve got a Ranger Raptor on order. It’s got front and rear lockers……I’m wondering if this video would help me reference a Bronco Raptor disconnect into my Ranger Raptor!?!?
The ranger raptor has more in common with the standard bronco than the bronco raptor. The entire front frame and suspension sections are the same as far as we could tell from the Ford 3D models. The badlands disconnect would likely bolt right up. No idea if the braptor one would or not.
@@stnkbg1can’t wait to find out. Hook it to an aux like this gentleman did…and boom…f+r lockers already come standard.
Have you had any issues with this method of install since you first installed the disconnect?
@paulvasta6159 nope, it's been flawless. I generally flip the switch right after airing down and leave it disconnected until i hit pavement again. Bronco has no idea it's even there.
You are a genius. I have the Bronco Raptor and hate that I have to be in 4 wheel drive just to disconnect. A lot of trails where I’m at in the Rocky Mountains benefit from the sway bar disconnected with ruts and rocks, plus gives a more plush ride, but hate that I have to run around in 4 wheel drive just to disconnect. 🙄
Just ordered the wiring harness in your description. Going to keep all the factory wiring as-is so I can just plug back in and be back to stock, but do the wiring up to the AUX switches so I can disconnect whenever I want. Curious if you’d know if I might throw codes? 🤞😅
I would be surprised if it didn't throw some kind of code, but it might depend on how you hook it up.
If you unplug the entire assembly the computer will probably throw a code because it's not getting feedback from the sensors. I wonder if you left the sensors plugged in, while bypassing the solenoid wires what would happen. My guess is that when the sway bar is connected all will be fine, but it'll probably throw an error when you disconnect. The real question is will the error clear when you reconnect?
@@stinkyfabracing oh good point. I’ll see if I can also buy a male version of that plug so I can build me a little bypass without cutting anything and still keeping the connection to the sensors. Thanks for the feedback. 👊😎
The stabilizer has its own sub-harness that goes from the one big plug and splits to the 4 plugs for the solenoids and sensors. For your setup it might be better to find the connectors for the solenoids directly, rather than the one i used that connects to that sub-harness. This way you could just unplug the solenoids and then plug your new wiring in without cutting anything.
@@stinkyfabracing you’re the man. How do I pay you a consulting fee?
@daineclark 😂 no need for that, but feel free to take a look though stinkyfab.com and see if you like any of our products!
Where did you manage to find one?
Like I said in the video, any Ford dealer can order the assembly, or you can just use the ebay link I put in the description. That's where I got this one, and google searching the part number will come up with lots of sources.
Have you tried unlocking Rock Crawling GOAT mode with Forscan? I wonder if it would trigger the disconnect and if that would conflict with the AUX 1 position@@stinkyfabracing
What’s the cost?
Did you happen to measure the amount of extra travel
That's not really something you can easily measure. The sway bar does not limit actual travel, it limits articulation. The front tires will still travel up and down the exact same distance, the difference is how easily one side can now compress while the other extends. With a standard sway bar (and with this one connected) both sides are joined by the sway bar. The amount of articulation you get is a product of how much load you put on it and how much the sway bar flexes. You'll get more flex on a downhill with all the weight on the front of the vehicle for example. With the disconnect the sway bar is no longer fighting that articulation.
If you measure from ground to the forks that was the measurement I was talking about
@michaelnice4753 i didn't, because that's not a very relevant measurement since it will vary with loading. The suspension was never fully compressed in either lift, and even just lifting front vs. Rear gets a different height because of weight transfer.
I can say that after disconnecting i was able to lift roughly 4-5 more inches on each end after disconnecting.
How much was the auto sway bar?
Price seems to vary but I've seen them frequently for around $1500
@@stnkbg1 I just recently got a totaled out 2021 ford ranger lariat tremor, I plan to install this on that ranger. It’s my understanding that the bronco is built on a modified version of the ranger frame. Would love some measurements to ensure this would “bolt up” to the ranger frame as I plan (hope) to do exactly the same thing on a factory rocker switch on the dash in the ranger. If you need my email or cell phone, let me know
That's awesome! Where is SFR located?
All of our products are manufactured in Southern California, but www.stinkyfab.com is where they are sold.
How do you get it to reconnect?
Turn off the switch.
@@stnkbg1how does it re-center?
@brock13r technically it doesn't. Once your suspension levels out it reengages in the neutral position. It doesn't like force you back to level or anything.