A small piece on the back of all outlet covers is a great place to write the breaker number to that switch or outlet. No more yelling across the house to find the right kill switch.
Another tip, useful especially for wide tape: After it gets a little old or cold, it's hard to peel off (tears vertically down the roll), heat it for about 10 seconds in the microwave. It will then pull off the roll as designed. That's especially useful for the original masking tape which rarely pulls off the roll easily.
Make certain the timer on the microwave oven is set for ten seconds rather than ten minutes. Then again a roll of masking tape in a nuke for ten minutes could probably be passed off as art.
When cutting the painter's tape with the band saw to get the small pieces, do you need to apply painter's tape to the painter's tape to prevent tearout? 😜
Yes and you should also use a piece of painter's tape with the measurement of the small pieces of painters tape to label the pieces of painters tape so you know how big each section of painter's tape is when you go to use the painter's tape as labels.
@Seek Him with all your heart and you will find Him - Keep your superstitions to yourself. I was once like you. A serious, dedicated christian. I even preached from door to door. But then I woke up. Your imaginary friend in the sky doesn't exist. But if you choose to think otherwise, that's fine by me. However, you have no right to push your superstitions on others. Religion is like a penis. Lots of people have one. And that's just fine. But it's not acceptable for them to go waving it around in public, and definitely not if they shove it down other people's throats uninvited. So keep your religion zipped up, and only take it out to play with when you're alone or in consenting company. Am I making myself clear?
Never use a chisel to pry that board off since it could damage the floor. Use longer strips of tape on bottom so you can grab the excess and pull up the tape and board.
@@utubestalker.dotcom Not really. Structure would be free and just bumping on it might cause is to fall over on its own. Better solution would the to chisel area on top for say 3mm steel plate, weld m12 nut on the plate and chisel area for that with bit extra space, get all tread m10 bolt and one of those m10 hammer nuts that are hammered to wood and hold in place due metal teeth, drill m10 hole trough the wood, push bolt trough, get it to contact the treads, insert the plate on top so bolts end lock into cavity, might want to superglue some rubber on the plate though for better friction, lift the wall frame up and tighten the bolt jamming the wall frame between floor and sealing... giving that sealing can handle that. This way there is friction connection that needs serious force to get loose and only damages sealing depending on what that is made out off. Just take panels with say plywood that can be unscrewed from one side and then you can loosen the bolts to move it if you want. On the bottom you can put some say friction mattress to increase holding power there and generally its the bottom area that gets most force applied so that should be most secure. Tape/glue alone i doubt it will hold and can leave glue into floor that is pain in the ass to clean, depending on floor material.
If you use the opposite side of the chisel, no damage to the floor. I use them every single day as a plumber to scrape away caulking & wax ring gunk. Works the same as a scraper razor blade which is much sharper.
You can also use painters tape to write on walls. More specifically, to draw markings for drilling when you are planning to hang something. For instance: -You can place a long strip of Painters Tape above a window and make it mostly level. -Then you can use a straight edge, draw the vertical edges of the window onto the painters tape. -You can use a leveler mark horizontal line down the length of the painters tape. At the spot that the lines intersect, you now have two points of reference that are perfectly level and give you the edges of the windows. You don't need to drill exactly on those two points, but you can use them as starting points to more easily find the drilling locations for something like a curtain rod. You can also use this for hanging a bathroom mirror. I've seen more than one mirror hung (by various people) where they left multiple pencil marks or drilled multiple holes, because they didn't get things marked off correctly the first time. Sometimes the issue is that they don't want to draw a solid line on their wall, so they draw a few small lines. Only, the small lines got out of level, or out of position because the markings were over two feet apart, and the error wasn't visible until the mirror was hung. If you draw a single line across the wall (on top of a piece of Painters Tape), you can see if the line isn't straight before you put any holes in the wall.
When hanging big items like mirrors that have two specific slots where the screws need to be, I like to take a piece of painters tape and run it across the back of the mirror. then mark the places where the screws need to be on the painters tape. next, peel off the tape and trasfer it to the wall. Adjust as necessary to center or level the tape, then drill your holes and remove the tape. perfect every time.
Yes! I was going to suggest the same thing, because I do it all the time when I'm hanging pictures, etc. and don't want to add a lot of pencil marks directly on the wall. But you explained it much better than me.
@@B3nder127 Now that's helpful. I'm actually hanging some large paintings back up in the house tonight and was trying to figure out how to determine where to put the hooks for the three hangers.
Use the tape to hold an envelope in place below where you drill a hole and the envelope will catch more dust. The dust will also be better contained when removing it and won't fall off the tape alone.
2:35 if you're laying a bead of caulk on a joint like that, go ahead and put it in with the caulk gun. Then spray right over the caulking and the surfaces on both sides of the joint with index. Yep, regular old windex. dampen a paper towel with 1-2 sprays too and then simply wipe the caulking with your finger. If any spreads out onto the surrounding surfaces it will just wipe away clean due to the windex you sprayed moments earlier. I do it all the time on baseboards and cabinet moldings. Perfect every time.
I’m not sure I understand your tip as it is written. You are saying to put the caulk down on the joint without tape and then spray the wet caulk and surrounding area? Then you wipe that caulk with the windex dampened paper towel which is now wrapped over your finger to make a nice clean smooth bead? Thanks in advance for clarifying!
Good tips. Regarding the circular saw, simply cut the board from the back to minimize tear out. Also, another tip I recently discovered, place small bits of blue tape where you are going to shoot finish or brad nails, then shoot through the tape - then fill the hole, sand if needed & peel off tape. I do this frequently with pre-finished cabinet crown molding.
I agree with op however, I have been in situations with "built-in" furniture where you do not have clearance for the saw table on the bottom of the board. Also when cutting door bottoms there is not really a "back side" that's mainly when I use tape and go slow. I agree, invest in good blades.
Adding my tip: When you get a new device that has any type electrical cord (phone charger wire, regular electrical plug, etc - you get the idea) write down what it is on a "painter's tape flag" and tape it to the wire near the plug end. This is especially handy if you have things plugged into surge protectors with multiple outlets. I also do this with any computer peripherals. If it has a wire, it gets a flag. :)
1:00. Yes, with your blade SO low below the surface, you’ll get tear out. Even with the painters’ tape. Adjust the saw so it extends *barely* beyond the bottom edge. You’ll get a very clean cut!
Painters tape & a sharpie are one of my favorite kitchen tools. I label leftovers, food that I preserve, or can, plus dates on everything. With a roll in the kitchen, it comes out for many other chores around the house.
This was my least favorite. Of course it works, but you could just write on switch cover directly with a sharpie. Sure, in 10 years you may change colors, but by then you are changing switch or outlet covers as well. I'm not saying it won't work, it's just an extra step.
Cutting the roll of tape to make "labels' is a great idea! Not so much for making labels, but for making RIGHT ANGLE SQUARES to use in corners. Well, that was the first thing I thought of, anyway. But, this video had lots of great ideas. Glad I took the time to watch, and glad LRD2DNY took the time to make this. Thanks!
Another use for painters tape which someone taught me: we were painting a bathroom which we knew would need to be returned to its original white walls after my friend moved out. The mirrored bathroom cabinet had just a very small clearance between it and the corner of the room. We knew we couldn’t get a paintbrush into that corner to do a tidy job, and so my friend painted a 2” wide piece of blue painters tape and taped it to the far /corner side of the mirror. The painted piece of tape was the same color as the rest of the newly painted wall, but when the wall needed to be repainted at the end of the renter living there, the painters tape was just peeled off again, revealing the original white wall beneath.
@Seek Him with all your heart and you will find Him - I was once like you. A serious, dedicated christian. I even preached from door to door. But then I woke up. Your imaginary friend in the sky doesn't exist. But if you choose to think otherwise, that's fine by me. However, you have NO right to push your superstitions on others. Even if your god claims you do. Religion is like a penis. Lots of people have one. And that's just fine. But it's NOT acceptable for them to go waving it around in public, and DEFINITELY NOT if they shove it down other people's throats uninvited. So keep your religion zipped up, and only take it out to play with when you're alone or in consenting company. Am I making myself clear?
@@Garryck-1 Well said. With approximately 8 billion people on the planet, how can any one religion boasts its truth above all the others? I imagine the Dynasties older and revered and shake my head at how some zealots boast about being hypocrites. Even they can not adhere to the guidelines of which they claim to acclaim: Respect for others. When they learn to respect others and their choices they would actually help make this world a little easier to live in…thank you for your candidness. I have friends from all walks of life and that is just it….we walk through this life…through it. Be well my friend.
You forgot to use the blue tape for a measurement guide for hanging objects on the wall, just run the tape against the frame of the picture or object and find your holes, then take that same peice of tape to level and hang that picture or object. It's really helpful and works better than measuring the holes to hang an object or picture.
Holy shit! Why have I never thought of this. Great idea! I usually make a template out of spare cardboard and what not, but this seems much quicker and easier.
I put the strip on the wall and use it as a drawing surface to mark the holes. If you don't have a fancy laser leveler, you can use a normal level and draw the leveled line right on the nearly level tape.
@Seek Him with all your heart and you will find Him • Your post has got absolutely nothing to do with this video. Please stop trying to ram your beliefs down everyone else's throats.
I started using painters tape years ago when I need to saw the bottom of a door for carpet or tile installation , Not only does it prevent tear out when cutting , it gives you a straight line to guide the saw cut , AND it keeps the plate on the saw from leaving scuff marks or gray marks which were causing me to have to touch up the door with paint when I finished , Saves SO much time .
Just to clarify, super glue is CA glue. The thinner the CA (super glue) the faster it will set. The water on the sponge trick should work well, just be sure to apply the damp sponge to the side that does not have the glue.
I came to say this. Also worth mentioning is that while water will speed curing up, baking soda will slow it down, and also thicken it if you need the glue to fill small irregularities in the gluing surface, should you need either of those things.
A little FYI: Super Glue and CA - same thing. The larger CA bottle is just the slightly more "pro use" style container, and most of these "pro style" CA brands can be bought in 3-4 thickness grades. It also reacts with water, like you used with the "super glue", the activator just reacts faster and gives a better and nicer looking joint in most cases, as the activator is formulated to fit the specific chemical type of the CA optimally, although most brands can be used interchangeably albeit with risk of small side effects like discoloration, etc.. You can even use most activators with the little super glue tube stuff in a pinch, in case you run out of the "pro" stuff. Oh, right, try to avoid breathing in the fumes generated in the fast reaction of the glue as well as the accelerator itself, it very unpleasant and not healthy either.
I agree with you about the use of water or spray accelerant. In my mind the most important comment you made was the health effects of CA. I experienced some breathing issues, raspy voice with whistling sounds and fatigue after years of . exposing my self to fumes. I had used CA for many years until one day I was glueing several small parts and inhaled quite a bit. After 2 years I still feel my respiratory system has not recovered.
In my house, the switches for the fans and lights aren't consistent from room to room. Some have the light switch on the left and the fan on the right, and some rooms have it the other way. So I make the screw slots face up-and-down for the lights and side-to-side for the fans so that you can always tell the difference without having to try first.
@@jwalters9089 I completely agree. I have an old house that doesn't have wall switches for most of the lights. So, the longer pull cord is for the light and the shorter is for the ceiling fan. Heck, the entire second floor doesn't even have wall outlets. That's what you get sometimes when you buy an old country house that was built before plumbing and electrical was standard in houses in America. (1820s is as far back as we can trace it in county records, was a sales certificate)
One of my favorites: Keep the inner cardboard. After you have your walls rocked and doors installed, they make great door stoppers while taping/painting is still going on and you cant yet install stoppers.
I'm the same way. Also I put paint info inside a kitchen cabinet door. I've seen some folks who don't take the switch plate off when they paint. But you will always open the kitchen cabinet.
Wow! I thought I was the only person in the world who was fussy about aligning the grooves in all the screws on a switchplate. I'm glad to know I'm not alone. These are great tips. Thanks!
I love learning new "tricks" for tackling DIY projects and while I DID know a couple of them already, the rest were new to me and so very clever. Now if I could just find a good mate with mad DIY skills, a passion for DIY projects and be open to the prospect of having a DIY gal pal to work with, Oh, the fun we could have.
Tradesman tip: To stop circular saw tear out use a sharp blade and make sure its a fine cut that has 40 or more teeth, plus the use of masking tape if you want to use it, will give you a clean tear out free cut👍 Some Great tips in this video👌
All great tips, here's another one: when you want to paint a straight line, put the tape on the surface and caulk the side of the tape you want to paint. Wipe off most of the caulk, then paint it. Now peel the tape off at a 45° angle away from the paint, and now you have a straight paint line.
Yup, with a tiny bit of caulk. This basically fills all the tiny gaps between the uneven surface and the tape, when your don't want the paint to sneak in. And yes, the surface is uneven, unless it's polished marble or glass!
@@jesusramirez-or1qb yes sir! We do this on every job with masking tape saves time, caulk and money (blue tape is expensive) lines come out 99% there’s always a lil tiny bit of touch up no matter what you do am I right? 😊 happy painting
@@heisrisen560 Yes, it is high dollar tape. If someone would come up with an idea to caulk and paint quarter round at the same time would save time and knees.
Great tips. To add to this impressive list: 1. On the back of the faceplate of any receptacle, add the corresponding breaker number in your electric panel. Makes service calls or future DIY projects easier to start. 2. I often bundle together screws with their companion item. For example, I'll tape the screws to the back side of a frame for safe keeping or tape the allen key to one of the chairs underside so when they are loose, I have the key right there. Ikea furniture is notorious for having additional items that just end up in a bag, drawer, or lost forever.
I did this with my breakers several years ago. My kids were on the Playstation in their bedroom one day and I needed to turn off the breaker for the living room. I had to flip all the breakers until I found the one I needed. Needless to say, I flipped the breaker to the Playstation. After that it occurred to me to write the numbers on the back of the plate. I didn't use the tape, I just used a permanent marker.
I'm not going to put tape or any other flammable item near live electrical wires. It may not affect you, but what about years later when the adhesive on the tape dries out and it falls into the box?
ridiculous tip. all the breakers should be labeled on a chart on the the inside of the panel cover. you definitely do NOT want paper products in an electric box!
These are all good!!!! I wanted to add one that I use - if I'm putting up something with two screw holes on the back, like a power strip, I put a strip of tape on it, poke holes where they need to be, and then put that tape on the wall or undercabinet and drill there, using the same trick you shared with the tape as a depth guide. Easy-Peasy. Except I forgot to put on safety glasses and got wood shavings in my eye.
First time viewer here, great video!!! I use a few of these currently. And for gods sake, THANK YOU for straightening the screws on the light switch cover. I do have OCD (for real), and that fixed things for me. I happened across the few tips here that I use mostly by accident, basically the rolls of painters tape I've always had lying around were the only things available when I needed to mark something. Being a startup guitar builder, with no real tools and doing it all by hand the blue painters tape has been my savior. I would've drilled through a few guitar necks and bodies without marking the depth like this. I used it to create and mask off some relicing (fake wear and tear, paint chips, worn spots etc. for those who don't know) on a couple guitars, perfect stuff for many things. I'm really diggin the one where you write all the paint info on the back of the light switch cover, never occurred to me, that's awesome. This topic just really connected with me, I love it.
I'm a plumber and a carpenter and I love that tip about painting. And thanks for mentioning the screws not enough people pay attention to that. Always stand your soldiers at attention!
Great tips, thanks. On using CA glue and accelerator, you might want to recap the glue before spraying the accelerator (and put the glue in the next room). Your CA glue might have become a solid block inside the bottle by the time you read this. Speaking from experience:(
Good advice! Also always remember to cap the CA in general, as it reacts chemically with moisture in the air and slowly solidifies as well (basically exactly like most woodworkers know it from gorilla glue and other Polyurethane glue brands, which are also cyanide compound based like CA).
Change the blade depth on your circular saw so that the teeth just pass the bottom of the piece you are cutting and that will make the cut nicer. That's it's intended purpose for being adjustable.
I’ll admit I clicked here half expecting some ‘ life hacks no one in their right mind will ever need’ type garbage,but was very impressed,both with the suggestions and the quality of presentation. 👍👍 Thanks!👌
Finally, someone that screws in light switch plates and aligns the screws in the same direction. That extra 5 seconds of effort really makes the finished product look that much better.
But they have to be tight or else they will come lose over time. And making them tight requires them to not all be lined up in the same direction. No one ever notices that. And this video is the first time I’ve ever heard of anyone doing that.
I thought this video would be stupid, but after watching, I can say I’m very impressed! Very good suggestions for painters tape, Ive used the drill gauge idea before. But your idea for clean caulk lines takes the cake!! Great job, thanks for a useful video. 😎👍
The key to neat caulking is to push the bead forward rather than drag it. You won't need painters tape if you do that. It takes some practice to get it right though.
I few more tips for caulking, all caulking should be tooled with a tooling knife and not the finger (the finger does not always get the air bubbles out which leads to pin holes and cracking). Mix 3 parts water to 1 part dawn soap (original blue color) in a spray bottle and spray the caulking (the tape will protect the surface from the overspray) as this keeps the caulking from sticking to the tool knife and gives it a smooth finish as well. The plastic caulking smoothers are a waste of money as you can use a cake icing smoother or a small spoon as a tooling knife instead of purchasing an actual tooling knife.
Some good ones. Here is another: Cover the ferrule of your paintbrush and the heel of the bristles about a quarter to half inch with painters tape. When ready to clean bush after working peel the tape before cleaning to make it easier, and more importantly this will preserve the brush by preventing paint build up where the bristles meet the ferrule.
This is the best video I have seen in a while. My father has multiple rolls of blue tape in various drawers around the house - (who needs MULTIPLE rolls in one upstairs drawer?). I am sending him this video right now.
Marking the measurement on tape then just taking the tape to the piece you need to cut is incredibly simple but so effective. A "Lifehack" video that was actually helpful 🤟🤟
As far as the splintered plywood, just take a sharp utility knife and score the veneer a little bit and then cut along that scored line. Works like a charm.😁
Nice tease on the 2x4. I will have to watch that video. I liked the cutting of the tape to make labels. I will use that trick to make price tags at my next yard sale. Good Video sir.
That thumbnail was so stupid it was genius. That is a compliment. Good tips. I will say I am not a fan of using it for caulking, it is easy and looks really good when it's first put down, but it leaves a little gouge/corner that collects dust and grime. I mean if you're using silicone or polyurethane, it sure makes clean up easy. But you want to apply it, wipe it in, remove the tape, and then wipe it in again. Just to avoid those little dirt cracks, especially to in food prep areas. I say poly too, but commercial window guys sure put me to shame.
That "gluing" the board trick was absolutely genius! That is great for putting up semi-permanent walls in offices or other areas that need to be changed once in a while. Or even putting up partitions in rooms that can be changed around etc. There are TONS of ideas that I can come up with that work well with that.
I love you man. I was so horrible with caulking, I kept putting it off. I always made such a mess. In the house and on my boat. Your trick for caulking is unbelievably simple and a lifesaver. Thank you so much.
Note that on the 3M Painters Tape directions it states that the tape should be removed within two weeks for easy removal. Back in the day a co-worker of mine was working with a steering wheel to install a prototype airbag. It was rapped in leather so he used several layers of blue tape to protect it. Well, the project took longer than expected and the tape would not come off. Instead of trying a solvent it was decided to have the steering wheel rewrapped with leather. Which was an expensive fix however it was necessary for the program to continue. The take away was to always read the directions-even for tape!
Oh definitely if you leave it on too long it'll tear that right up. Nowadays the painter tapes all have a 7 day clean release or 3 day clean release labeled exactly for that reason
The comments are so rude, jeeeez the guy is trying to inform you, half of you don’t own tape or know how to use it , support fellow you tubers not beat them up over microphone or age of tips being something you heard of . Lots of people get helpful tips from many sources , Sorry to see so many mean spirited people on a diy page
Thanks for the kind words. TH-cam has given me much thicker skin so it's all good. Most of the comments are kind and I'll always focus on those and learn what I can from the rest. And maybe roll my eyes a few times :)
Another tip, when you put tape w/ the paint info on the back of the wall plate, add a sample card or a large drop of the paint so if it that color is discontinued, the paint store can scan the drop/sample and mix it up for you.
It's 4:36 in the morning. I found your video serendipitously. Great information. I admit I would never have thought of that myself. Thanks for your training.
Nice!! Thanks! I only use Frog Tape for painting now though, I keep having terrible spots under my straight lines when using 3M blue tape. Frog tape gives me much cleaner lines and doesn't leave residue months (18 months for one project I still haven't finished lol) after first applied. But sine the 3M is cheaper, it works for everything else.
I've had the same luck as you. Over and over I'd apply painter's tape and it would consistently have random bleed-through where the paint still got on the area being masked. I'll give Frog Tape a shot.
I use it when hanging pictures. Put a strip on the wall, use the stud-finder and a level to work out where you want to drill, marking as required with a sharpie or a pen. Once you have drilled your holes, peel off the tape to remove all of the markings from the wall. I sometimes use yellow frog-tape for this, simply because a black sharpie stands out better than it would against blue tape.
Especially useful for hanging stuff with just the holes in the back where you need to put mounting screws perfectly. Tape on the back of the thing to be hung, poke holes where the hanger-keyhole recessed brackets are, then remove tape, put on wall and level. Drill now precisely
@@edwardschmitt5710 took me a second to realize you mean a single, long piece of tape, covering both mounting points, basically making a mini template with built in adhesive. Brilliant!
That cutting the roll apart is the bomb!! I work as a volunteer in a 50+ shop and we go through a LOT of painter's tape. This is BRILLIANT! There are many times when we teach folks how to clamp with tape and this will make it so much easier. I don't know why I didn't think of this.
As a renter, I was looking for a way to install two-by-fours to the wall and kitchen cabinet without using nails. The tape and glue combination will make this possible. Our temporary puppy gate is just a bit too short to fit between an odd-sized area without damaging the kitchen cabinet and the drywall opposite. This may just be the solution we need. Thank you so much.
You just blew my mind with the caulking trick! I have been struggling all this time to get perfect lines and this trick is the easiest way to get those perfect lines. Great job!!
Love the tip for noting the paint you've used and hiding it behind the lightswitch! Worth noting, though, that CA glue is super glue and water and accelerant works the same for both.
One thing that should be mentioned about tape is that it gets old, and when it does it can be overly sticky, so when your masking over a hardwood floor, when you remove it ,it can remove the existing finish. Only buy tape and paint from a paint store that moves inventory quickly. Try and stay away from hardware stores that may have products that have been on the shelves for sometimes years!
Dried-out masking tape/painter's tape? Pop the roll in the microwave for 20 seconds on high power. It reactivates the adhesive and makes the roll usable again. And: don't pry with a chisel!
I once painted over a bedroom that was previously painted the exact same color as 3M blue tape. It was freaky. And all I could envision was some houseowner going into the paint store, looking at a roll of blue tape, and saying "Yep, that's the color I want on all four walls of my bedroom." Crazy.
As a painter, two tips: The same tip you use for making straight caulk lines can be extended to make sharp crisp lines between paint colors, such as at an accent. No masking tape is enough to keep paint from bleeding through, so caulk the tape line before you paint, and take up the tape immediately, while the caulk is still wet. The caulk prevents bleeding, and you get your perfect line between colors! Gluing a 2x4 to the floor can help when ... Using an extension ladder on wood floors and you need something to keep your ladder feet from slipping! Nice trick! I'll have to use that some day!
I was taught the same trick for drilling drywall and masonry, but we put a an extra small strip flat against the wall, the put the "U- shape" pouch on top of that. When you remove the back piece you have a little pouch an nothing can fall accidentally.
To add to the idea of leaving paint info on the back of the switch plates, you could also make a 1"x1" sample of the paint and leave it there cause then the store could use it to colour match.
Can't believe I never new about the drywall u-shaped pocket. I've drilled hundreds of drywall holes over the past few decades and usually resorted to having the wife or kid hold a vacuum under the spot I was drilling. This is much more convenient. Thanks!
it can work. but what he showed in the video definitely didn't. I guarantee if he had pointed the camera down there was drywall on the ground. you could literally see dust falling below it.
@@darkpheonix77 I am sure it may not be perfect, but it must catch most of the dust. I have not had a need to do this lately, but the next time I do I am going to give it a try.
Awesome tips! I have to close some gaps in my laminate and while I was watching that portion of your video, I had an idea! What about using velcro strips (the kind that comes in a roll with the adhesive backing)? Opposite sides (one on floor panel, other on knocing board) and then do it that way? The only reason I thought of that was because when I use ANY and I mean ANY kind of adhesive, be it glue, PVC floor tile adhesive, etc, I get it EVERYWHERE except where I need it! I'm going to give it a shot and I'll post back here if it works!
I volunteer in a 50+ woodshop and I teach the tear-out thing all the time. I also teach a lot of other techniques that I'm sure you'll cover, but tear-out is a thing with such an easy fix.
I used the caulk method when installing granite counteracts back splashes, makes the glue almost invisible, it's also good for damaged bumps on sheetrock, so,your stucco sits almost level with the surrounding sheet rock but just a tiny bit high when the tape is removed so only a little bit of sanding.
Sorry if it's already been mentioned here (1.5k comments already), just wanted to add that painter's tape makes a fabulous door or drawer handle in a pinch, too. Tape the end inside the door or drawer then wrap it around the near side of the door or drawer and pull a long length off the tape. Then tape the other end just outside of the door or drawer and press the middle length of the tape together to firm the handle. It won't last forever but works when you need a handle in a pinch, such as when it breaks or you aren't ready to install handles yet (maybe you're painting first? 😉). Thanks for the video!
As well as the paint info, it's also a good idea to include the circuit breaker # as well. On switches that control outlets, it's never safe to assume it shares the same breaker as other switches. I also do this for outlet covers as well. No more sequentially flipping breakers until you finally find the correct one.
That's for sure. There's a single circuit breaker that had gone bad in my dad's house and that's when I found out it actually controls not only the power and switches to both bedrooms, but also the power and switch to the garbage disposal in the kitchen. Everything else in the kitchen is on a different breaker.
@@PGIFilms By switches, do you mean light switches? Bcuz receptacles and lights are never supposed to be on the same circuit. [edit: never allowed for commercial/office application. Might be allowed in residential in some specific circumstances, but not when local codes prohibit it, or newer NEC code prohibits it.]
@@wownewstome6123 Yeah, the lights and receptacles in a given room are on the same circuit breaker. There are only 5 light fixtures (porch, entry way to living room, kitchen, utility/laundry room, and bathroom) but there are no fixtures in the 2 bedrooms. Each bedroom has 3 outlets and one of the 3 is connected to the wall switch. So the single breaker I was talking about controls 8 outlets (2 linked to switches in the bedrooms and 1 linked to the switch for the garbage disposal in the kitchen) spread out in 4 rooms. The condo complex he lives in was constructed back in the 80s if I remember correctly, so maybe this was considered within code for the time. If I had the money I'd tell him to get someone to redo the wiring with a larger circuit panel to put each bedroom on its own breaker.
@@PGIFilms Please see my edit/correction to my earlier comment. I agree that it probably was to code back then. Good that they kept the garbage disposal off the circuit for small appliances/kitchen counter, since not allowed.
@@PGIFilms What he may want added is a ground fault circuit interrupter for the garbage disposal. I'm surprised there isn't one in place already, since they have been available for decades. Now there is a similar device for arcs that may occur in the wall, which can cause a fire. There's a type of circuit breaker for the panel that is supposed to detect arcs, too.
Nice! I've got a more in depth video coming out Saturday about the floor gaps using this technique as well as a new kind of double sided tape but the idea is the same. Good luck!
Just a word of caution. The tape behind the lightswitch cover may be against electrical code. Not supposed to have anything flammable in those boxes. That's why when you buy wooden lightswitch covers they have a metal plate on the back. The caulking tip is genius BTW.
Anytime you want a perfect line when you butt two paint colors together, put your tape down and run a very light bead of caulking on the edge, wipe off the excess , paint as usual and pull off the tape before the caulk starts to set up and you have a perfect line.
@@danielquaternik22 Alternatively; paint 1st colour slightly beyond desired position - 1/4" to 1/2"; lay painter's tape, creating desired outline; paint thin layer of 1st colour on tape edge nearest planned area for 2nd colour; once dry, paint 2nd colour; peel tape = precision lines, every time. Painting 1st colour on tape line seals tape edge with same colour as that beneath tape; any bleeding results in 1st colour on 1st colour = not distinguishable. If transitioning colours in a vertical corner, draw a light score line (floor to ceiling) to create a miniscule separation between the two adjoining walls. As you paint, the slight hollow from the score line will prevent puddled or pooling paint from creeping over to the adjacent wall.
@@jasonarthurs3885 Thank you Jason. I think we are on the same path just slightly different ways of getting there. A good seal on the tape edge is key so no bleeding. Thanks
Nice video! One suggestion. The caulking tip is nice but in reality it leaves a tiny edge where dirt and mildew will form. This is very noticeable when caulking a bath tub and shower wall. To avoid this is to run your finger again over the caulk once the tape has been removed.
Great tips. I have a couple questions, though. After cleaning the residue from the masking tape, how do you remove the residue from the WD40? Or does it not stain? Also.. Are you gonna remember to take off a lightswitch cover before you go shopping for paint?
A small piece on the back of all outlet covers is a great place to write the breaker number to that switch or outlet. No more yelling across the house to find the right kill switch.
Or a sharpie but I've used both
Still check.
@@MMSpan every time, those surprises suck, lol
That’s really clever! Thanks for sharing
Why do you need to write on tape? Sharpie on the cover works too!
I've been a painter for 24 years and you taught me a couple things I never knew about tape and I use the shit almost everyday. Thank you GREAT VIDEO
Another tip, useful especially for wide tape: After it gets a little old or cold, it's hard to peel off (tears vertically down the roll), heat it for about 10 seconds in the microwave. It will then pull off the roll as designed.
That's especially useful for the original masking tape which rarely pulls off the roll easily.
Nice. I will definitely try that. Thanks!
Love it! That makes perfect sense.
Top tip! Thanks:)
Make certain the timer on the microwave oven is set for ten seconds rather than ten minutes. Then again a roll of masking tape in a nuke for ten minutes could probably be passed off as art.
Throw the roll out. Once it gets to that stage you spend more time trying make it work than it is worth.
When cutting the painter's tape with the band saw to get the small pieces, do you need to apply painter's tape to the painter's tape to prevent tearout? 😜
Yes and you should also use a piece of painter's tape with the measurement of the small pieces of painters tape to label the pieces of painters tape so you know how big each section of painter's tape is when you go to use the painter's tape as labels.
ROFL this some "Inception" shiz right dr.
I think you guys just 🏆 Won 🏆 my whole internet's for the night. 😊 Thanks.
@Seek Him with all your heart and you will find Him - Keep your superstitions to yourself.
I was once like you. A serious, dedicated christian. I even preached from door to door. But then I woke up. Your imaginary friend in the sky doesn't exist. But if you choose to think otherwise, that's fine by me. However, you have no right to push your superstitions on others.
Religion is like a penis. Lots of people have one. And that's just fine. But it's not acceptable for them to go waving it around in public, and definitely not if they shove it down other people's throats uninvited.
So keep your religion zipped up, and only take it out to play with when you're alone or in consenting company.
Am I making myself clear?
Best thread ever
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Never use a chisel to pry that board off since it could damage the floor. Use longer strips of tape on bottom so you can grab the excess and pull up the tape and board.
I say tape and glue a handle to said 2 by 4 to manipulate it anyway necessary
5:47 good tip.. that method of tape and glue for wood might be a good way to set up a temporary wall for renters
@@utubestalker.dotcom Not really. Structure would be free and just bumping on it might cause is to fall over on its own. Better solution would the to chisel area on top for say 3mm steel plate, weld m12 nut on the plate and chisel area for that with bit extra space, get all tread m10 bolt and one of those m10 hammer nuts that are hammered to wood and hold in place due metal teeth, drill m10 hole trough the wood, push bolt trough, get it to contact the treads, insert the plate on top so bolts end lock into cavity, might want to superglue some rubber on the plate though for better friction, lift the wall frame up and tighten the bolt jamming the wall frame between floor and sealing... giving that sealing can handle that. This way there is friction connection that needs serious force to get loose and only damages sealing depending on what that is made out off. Just take panels with say plywood that can be unscrewed from one side and then you can loosen the bolts to move it if you want. On the bottom you can put some say friction mattress to increase holding power there and generally its the bottom area that gets most force applied so that should be most secure. Tape/glue alone i doubt it will hold and can leave glue into floor that is pain in the ass to clean, depending on floor material.
If you use the opposite side of the chisel, no damage to the floor. I use them every single day as a plumber to scrape away caulking & wax ring gunk. Works the same as a scraper razor blade which is much sharper.
no you can just put pressure on the side of the board and the tape will come up... your over estimating how sticky painters tape lmao
@ the 6:20 mark, Your super glue and your instacure are both CA glue and the accelerator works on both.
You can also use painters tape to write on walls. More specifically, to draw markings for drilling when you are planning to hang something.
For instance:
-You can place a long strip of Painters Tape above a window and make it mostly level.
-Then you can use a straight edge, draw the vertical edges of the window onto the painters tape.
-You can use a leveler mark horizontal line down the length of the painters tape.
At the spot that the lines intersect, you now have two points of reference that are perfectly level and give you the edges of the windows. You don't need to drill exactly on those two points, but you can use them as starting points to more easily find the drilling locations for something like a curtain rod.
You can also use this for hanging a bathroom mirror. I've seen more than one mirror hung (by various people) where they left multiple pencil marks or drilled multiple holes, because they didn't get things marked off correctly the first time. Sometimes the issue is that they don't want to draw a solid line on their wall, so they draw a few small lines. Only, the small lines got out of level, or out of position because the markings were over two feet apart, and the error wasn't visible until the mirror was hung. If you draw a single line across the wall (on top of a piece of Painters Tape), you can see if the line isn't straight before you put any holes in the wall.
When hanging big items like mirrors that have two specific slots where the screws need to be, I like to take a piece of painters tape and run it across the back of the mirror. then mark the places where the screws need to be on the painters tape. next, peel off the tape and trasfer it to the wall. Adjust as necessary to center or level the tape, then drill your holes and remove the tape. perfect every time.
Yes! I was going to suggest the same thing, because I do it all the time when I'm hanging pictures, etc. and don't want to add a lot of pencil marks directly on the wall. But you explained it much better than me.
@@B3nder127 Now that's helpful. I'm actually hanging some large paintings back up in the house tonight and was trying to figure out how to determine where to put the hooks for the three hangers.
silicone tip is great. I always struggled with tracing silicon cleanly, now I know how to do that professionally.
Use the tape to hold an envelope in place below where you drill a hole and the envelope will catch more dust. The dust will also be better contained when removing it and won't fall off the tape alone.
or if you are really messy, tape a sandwich brown paper bag under where you drill. that should catch most of the dust/debris
Since most people don't have an envelope on a job site, just fold a piece of paper in half to catch the dust and tape one edge to the wall.
@@haljohnston8122 I'm damn sure any homeowner would be able to provide an envelope. Or just go prepared.
Post-it notes work well in a pinch, too. Stick it to the wall and fold the bottom half up. The dust stays in the fold when you pull it off.
@Andrew_koala Newspaper....what's THAT? ;-)
2:35 if you're laying a bead of caulk on a joint like that, go ahead and put it in with the caulk gun. Then spray right over the caulking and the surfaces on both sides of the joint with index. Yep, regular old windex. dampen a paper towel with 1-2 sprays too and then simply wipe the caulking with your finger. If any spreads out onto the surrounding surfaces it will just wipe away clean due to the windex you sprayed moments earlier. I do it all the time on baseboards and cabinet moldings. Perfect every time.
I’m not sure I understand your tip as it is written. You are saying to put the caulk down on the joint without tape and then spray the wet caulk and surrounding area? Then you wipe that caulk with the windex dampened paper towel which is now wrapped over your finger to make a nice clean smooth bead? Thanks in advance for clarifying!
@@maryhemphill9419 Yes, but I wipe with my wet finger first, then go over with a damp to slightly wet sponge. Works perfectly every time.
Good tips. Regarding the circular saw, simply cut the board from the back to minimize tear out. Also, another tip I recently discovered, place small bits of blue tape where you are going to shoot finish or brad nails, then shoot through the tape - then fill the hole, sand if needed & peel off tape. I do this frequently with pre-finished cabinet crown molding.
Yeah and use finer tooth sharp blade.
@@bretb8799 Yeah, my first response was that's a horrible blade for plywood!!!!
@@DaryleTilroe I think he used that blade with 1/4" ply to exaggerate the effect so it was easier to see.
Using the correct blade and setting the depth works great. You shouldn't be using a crosscut blade on plywood.
I agree with op however, I have been in situations with "built-in" furniture where you do not have clearance for the saw table on the bottom of the board. Also when cutting door bottoms there is not really a "back side" that's mainly when I use tape and go slow. I agree, invest in good blades.
Adding my tip: When you get a new device that has any type electrical cord (phone charger wire, regular electrical plug, etc - you get the idea) write down what it is on a "painter's tape flag" and tape it to the wire near the plug end. This is especially handy if you have things plugged into surge protectors with multiple outlets. I also do this with any computer peripherals. If it has a wire, it gets a flag. :)
Great tip!
1:00. Yes, with your blade SO low below the surface, you’ll get tear out. Even with the painters’ tape. Adjust the saw so it extends *barely* beyond the bottom edge. You’ll get a very clean cut!
And use a finish blade
Painters tape & a sharpie are one of my favorite kitchen tools. I label leftovers, food that I preserve, or can, plus dates on everything. With a roll in the kitchen, it comes out for many other chores around the house.
The paint and date idea in the light switch is a good idea. Even adding a dab of the paint to color match is something I would also do.
Neat trick too!
This was my least favorite. Of course it works, but you could just write on switch cover directly with a sharpie. Sure, in 10 years you may change colors, but by then you are changing switch or outlet covers as well. I'm not saying it won't work, it's just an extra step.
Cutting the roll of tape to make "labels' is a great idea! Not so much for making labels, but for making RIGHT ANGLE SQUARES to use in corners. Well, that was the first thing I thought of, anyway.
But, this video had lots of great ideas. Glad I took the time to watch, and glad LRD2DNY took the time to make this. Thanks!
same here. It is always a pain to get the tape to tear square...
Another use for painters tape which someone taught me: we were painting a bathroom which we knew would need to be returned to its original white walls after my friend moved out. The mirrored bathroom cabinet had just a very small clearance between it and the corner of the room. We knew we couldn’t get a paintbrush into that corner to do a tidy job, and so my friend painted a 2” wide piece of blue painters tape and taped it to the far /corner side of the mirror. The painted piece of tape was the same color as the rest of the newly painted wall, but when the wall needed to be repainted at the end of the renter living there, the painters tape was just peeled off again, revealing the original white wall beneath.
@Seek Him with all your heart and you will find Him - I was once like you. A serious, dedicated christian. I even preached from door to door. But then I woke up. Your imaginary friend in the sky doesn't exist. But if you choose to think otherwise, that's fine by me. However, you have NO right to push your superstitions on others. Even if your god claims you do.
Religion is like a penis. Lots of people have one. And that's just fine. But it's NOT acceptable for them to go waving it around in public, and DEFINITELY NOT if they shove it down other people's throats uninvited.
So keep your religion zipped up, and only take it out to play with when you're alone or in consenting company.
Am I making myself clear?
@@merlincultofficial3235 - Thanks mate! These kind of assholes really annoy me.
@@merlincultofficial3235 - And feel free to use it yourself.. spread the word!
@@Garryck-1 Well said. With approximately 8 billion people on the planet, how can any one religion boasts its truth above all the others? I imagine the Dynasties older and revered and shake my head at how some zealots boast about being hypocrites. Even they can not adhere to the guidelines of which they claim to acclaim: Respect for others. When they learn to respect others and their choices they would actually help make this world a little easier to live in…thank you for your candidness. I have friends from all walks of life and that is just it….we walk through this life…through it. Be well my friend.
@@SoniaBDorsey - Thank you, Sonia.. much appreciated! Be well.
You forgot to use the blue tape for a measurement guide for hanging objects on the wall, just run the tape against the frame of the picture or object and find your holes, then take that same peice of tape to level and hang that picture or object. It's really helpful and works better than measuring the holes to hang an object or picture.
Holy shit! Why have I never thought of this. Great idea!
I usually make a template out of spare cardboard and what not, but this seems much quicker and easier.
Literally the best trick ever. Definitely my favorite.
I put the strip on the wall and use it as a drawing surface to mark the holes. If you don't have a fancy laser leveler, you can use a normal level and draw the leveled line right on the nearly level tape.
@Seek Him with all your heart and you will find Him • Your post has got absolutely nothing to do with this video. Please stop trying to ram your beliefs down everyone else's throats.
Awesome tip. Never thought of doing that. Thanks.
I started using painters tape years ago when I need to saw the bottom of a door for carpet or tile installation , Not only does it prevent tear out when cutting , it gives you a straight line to guide the saw cut , AND it keeps the plate on the saw from leaving scuff marks or gray marks which were causing me to have to touch up the door with paint when I finished , Saves SO much time .
Just to clarify, super glue is CA glue. The thinner the CA (super glue) the faster it will set. The water on the sponge trick should work well, just be sure to apply the damp sponge to the side that does not have the glue.
I came to say this. Also worth mentioning is that while water will speed curing up, baking soda will slow it down, and also thicken it if you need the glue to fill small irregularities in the gluing surface, should you need either of those things.
A little FYI: Super Glue and CA - same thing. The larger CA bottle is just the slightly more "pro use" style container, and most of these "pro style" CA brands can be bought in 3-4 thickness grades. It also reacts with water, like you used with the "super glue", the activator just reacts faster and gives a better and nicer looking joint in most cases, as the activator is formulated to fit the specific chemical type of the CA optimally, although most brands can be used interchangeably albeit with risk of small side effects like discoloration, etc.. You can even use most activators with the little super glue tube stuff in a pinch, in case you run out of the "pro" stuff. Oh, right, try to avoid breathing in the fumes generated in the fast reaction of the glue as well as the accelerator itself, it very unpleasant and not healthy either.
I agree with you about the use of water or spray accelerant. In my mind the most important comment you made was the health effects of CA. I experienced some breathing issues, raspy voice with whistling sounds and fatigue after years of . exposing my self to fumes. I had used CA for many years until one day I was glueing several small parts and inhaled quite a bit. After 2 years I still feel my respiratory system has not recovered.
Superglue (CA) from the pound store is just as good as posh branded stuff unless you need high viscosity or flexible variants.
It's also worth noting that accelerant weakens the bond a little. If bonding strength is important, it's best to let it dry naturally.
In my house, the switches for the fans and lights aren't consistent from room to room. Some have the light switch on the left and the fan on the right, and some rooms have it the other way. So I make the screw slots face up-and-down for the lights and side-to-side for the fans so that you can always tell the difference without having to try first.
Very clever!
My wife would go bat crazy if all the screws weren't facing the same way and would call me sm idiot, lol.
Great idea!!!!
Move some of the switches so they are all consistent.
@@jwalters9089 I completely agree. I have an old house that doesn't have wall switches for most of the lights. So, the longer pull cord is for the light and the shorter is for the ceiling fan. Heck, the entire second floor doesn't even have wall outlets.
That's what you get sometimes when you buy an old country house that was built before plumbing and electrical was standard in houses in America. (1820s is as far back as we can trace it in county records, was a sales certificate)
Thanks!
One of my favorites:
Keep the inner cardboard. After you have your walls rocked and doors installed, they make great door stoppers while taping/painting is still going on and you cant yet install stoppers.
I just love the fact that you made all of the screw slots aiming the same way. I thought I was crazy doing that hahaha. It looks so much cleaner!
I'm the same way. Also I put paint info inside a kitchen cabinet door. I've seen some folks who don't take the switch plate off when they paint. But you will always open the kitchen cabinet.
And if they’re vertically aligned like that they don’t catch as much dust.
Oh on! To me, their all being aligned means their all being not as tight as they can be, and that sets my nerves on edge!
Wow! I thought I was the only person in the world who was fussy about aligning the grooves in all the screws on a switchplate. I'm glad to know I'm not alone. These are great tips. Thanks!
I do trim in eletrical . I've done every plate screw lined upward, on 8 compete houses. It looks best and only takes extra few seconds
He called us OCD people, I prefer CDO... ;)
I'm an electrician and almost every electrician I've met does this. It's called trim etiquette.
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n This information reassures me that some people seek order in the world.
@@AeanMichael Absolutely. Also, sometimes you spend 3 days on a house and this is all they see, the rest is inside the walls, so...
I AM IMPRESSED! Learn something new everyday! Even at my age!! I wont be without this kind of tape any more!!
I love learning new "tricks" for tackling DIY projects and while I DID know a couple of them already, the rest were new to me and so very clever. Now if I could just find a good mate with mad DIY skills, a passion for DIY projects and be open to the prospect of having a DIY gal pal to work with, Oh, the fun we could have.
Tradesman tip:
To stop circular saw tear out use a sharp blade and make sure its a fine cut that has 40 or more teeth, plus the use of masking tape if you want to use it, will give you a clean tear out free cut👍
Some Great tips in this video👌
All great tips, here's another one: when you want to paint a straight line, put the tape on the surface and caulk the side of the tape you want to paint. Wipe off most of the caulk, then paint it. Now peel the tape off at a 45° angle away from the paint, and now you have a straight paint line.
Yup, with a tiny bit of caulk. This basically fills all the tiny gaps between the uneven surface and the tape, when your don't want the paint to sneak in. And yes, the surface is uneven, unless it's polished marble or glass!
You can also just use paint instead of caulk.... Just use a little bit and spread it very, very thin. Once dry. Same as caulk. Facts!
@@jesusramirez-or1qb yes sir! We do this on every job with masking tape saves time, caulk and money (blue tape is expensive) lines come out 99% there’s always a lil tiny bit of touch up no matter what you do am I right? 😊 happy painting
@@heisrisen560 Yes, it is high dollar tape. If someone would come up with an idea to caulk and paint quarter round at the same time would save time and knees.
Great tips. To add to this impressive list:
1. On the back of the faceplate of any receptacle, add the corresponding breaker number in your electric panel. Makes service calls or future DIY projects easier to start.
2. I often bundle together screws with their companion item. For example, I'll tape the screws to the back side of a frame for safe keeping or tape the allen key to one of the chairs underside so when they are loose, I have the key right there. Ikea furniture is notorious for having additional items that just end up in a bag, drawer, or lost forever.
Love your breaker tip!
I did this with my breakers several years ago. My kids were on the Playstation in their bedroom one day and I needed to turn off the breaker for the living room. I had to flip all the breakers until I found the one I needed. Needless to say, I flipped the breaker to the Playstation. After that it occurred to me to write the numbers on the back of the plate. I didn't use the tape, I just used a permanent marker.
I'm not going to put tape or any other flammable item near live electrical wires. It may not affect you, but what about years later when the adhesive on the tape dries out and it falls into the box?
@@wownewstome6123 you tell em Karen!
ridiculous tip. all the breakers should be labeled on a chart on the the inside of the panel cover. you definitely do NOT want paper products in an electric box!
These are all good!!!! I wanted to add one that I use - if I'm putting up something with two screw holes on the back, like a power strip, I put a strip of tape on it, poke holes where they need to be, and then put that tape on the wall or undercabinet and drill there, using the same trick you shared with the tape as a depth guide. Easy-Peasy. Except I forgot to put on safety glasses and got wood shavings in my eye.
That's a great tip!
First time viewer here, great video!!! I use a few of these currently. And for gods sake, THANK YOU for straightening the screws on the light switch cover. I do have OCD (for real), and that fixed things for me. I happened across the few tips here that I use mostly by accident, basically the rolls of painters tape I've always had lying around were the only things available when I needed to mark something. Being a startup guitar builder, with no real tools and doing it all by hand the blue painters tape has been my savior. I would've drilled through a few guitar necks and bodies without marking the depth like this. I used it to create and mask off some relicing (fake wear and tear, paint chips, worn spots etc. for those who don't know) on a couple guitars, perfect stuff for many things. I'm really diggin the one where you write all the paint info on the back of the light switch cover, never occurred to me, that's awesome. This topic just really connected with me, I love it.
I'm a plumber and a carpenter and I love that tip about painting. And thanks for mentioning the screws not enough people pay attention to that. Always stand your soldiers at attention!
Contrarian here: I think they look better lying down. Not sure why, tho.
@@gurugee2112 yeah some guys like to lay their soldiers to rest. That's fine as long as they're not f****** pointing in every different direction!
I was happily surprized to see I'm not alone in being OCD with the screws 😊😊
Thanks for the many useful tips 👍👍
Great tips, thanks. On using CA glue and accelerator, you might want to recap the glue before spraying the accelerator (and put the glue in the next room). Your CA glue might have become a solid block inside the bottle by the time you read this. Speaking from experience:(
Good advice! Also always remember to cap the CA in general, as it reacts chemically with moisture in the air and slowly solidifies as well (basically exactly like most woodworkers know it from gorilla glue and other Polyurethane glue brands, which are also cyanide compound based like CA).
Man cutting the roll into segments is genius!
Change the blade depth on your circular saw so that the teeth just pass the bottom of the piece you are cutting and that will make the cut nicer. That's it's intended purpose for being adjustable.
You can tell your a homeowner. Higher blade means better angle of cut , means smoother cut
Nice simple and articulate video. No fluff..perfect.
I’ll admit I clicked here half expecting some ‘ life hacks no one in their right mind will ever need’ type garbage,but was very impressed,both with the suggestions and the quality of presentation. 👍👍 Thanks!👌
Finally, someone that screws in light switch plates and aligns the screws in the same direction. That extra 5 seconds of effort really makes the finished product look that much better.
But they have to be tight or else they will come lose over time. And making them tight requires them to not all be lined up in the same direction. No one ever notices that. And this video is the first time I’ve ever heard of anyone doing that.
I thought this video would be stupid, but after watching, I can say I’m very impressed! Very good suggestions for painters tape, Ive used the drill gauge idea before. But your idea for clean caulk lines takes the cake!! Great job, thanks for a useful video. 😎👍
So glad you found some good tips in there!
Same. The caulking thing had my slapping my head. Why didn't I think of that? LOL
The key to neat caulking is to push the bead forward rather than drag it. You won't need painters tape if you do that. It takes some practice to get it right though.
Merely the same old uses being done for years since the invention of tape.
I few more tips for caulking, all caulking should be tooled with a tooling knife and not the finger (the finger does not always get the air bubbles out which leads to pin holes and cracking). Mix 3 parts water to 1 part dawn soap (original blue color) in a spray bottle and spray the caulking (the tape will protect the surface from the overspray) as this keeps the caulking from sticking to the tool knife and gives it a smooth finish as well. The plastic caulking smoothers are a waste of money as you can use a cake icing smoother or a small spoon as a tooling knife instead of purchasing an actual tooling knife.
06:46 - For the record, the Superglue shown just before that is also CA or cyanoacrylate glue.
Some good ones. Here is another: Cover the ferrule of your paintbrush and the heel of the bristles about a quarter to half inch with painters tape. When ready to clean bush after working peel the tape before cleaning to make it easier, and more importantly this will preserve the brush by preventing paint build up where the bristles meet the ferrule.
THIS is a great idea!
This is the best video I have seen in a while. My father has multiple rolls of blue tape in various drawers around the house - (who needs MULTIPLE rolls in one upstairs drawer?). I am sending him this video right now.
Marking the measurement on tape then just taking the tape to the piece you need to cut is incredibly simple but so effective. A "Lifehack" video that was actually helpful 🤟🤟
The caulk trick was good 👍🏾
As far as the splintered plywood, just take a sharp utility knife and score the veneer a little bit and then cut along that scored line. Works like a charm.😁
You can also set the blade to do the same method, just run through the piece twice
Or just turn the piece over and cut from the back.
@@wswerv1not if your triming a hollow core door.😁
@@tonkatoy200 what do you mean, set the blade and run through it twice ?
@JonH3234 You set the blade so it just touches the work piece, then score the veneer first pass
Nice tease on the 2x4. I will have to watch that video. I liked the cutting of the tape to make labels. I will use that trick to make price tags at my next yard sale. Good Video sir.
That thumbnail was so stupid it was genius. That is a compliment. Good tips. I will say I am not a fan of using it for caulking, it is easy and looks really good when it's first put down, but it leaves a little gouge/corner that collects dust and grime. I mean if you're using silicone or polyurethane, it sure makes clean up easy. But you want to apply it, wipe it in, remove the tape, and then wipe it in again. Just to avoid those little dirt cracks, especially to in food prep areas. I say poly too, but commercial window guys sure put me to shame.
That "gluing" the board trick was absolutely genius! That is great for putting up semi-permanent walls in offices or other areas that need to be changed once in a while. Or even putting up partitions in rooms that can be changed around etc. There are TONS of ideas that I can come up with that work well with that.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who has every screw perfectly straightened on every switch/outlet cover in the house🤣
OCDers Unite!
What's YOUR OCD? Vertical screw slots or horizontal? 😀
I learned the vertical screw slot trick from the electrician who wired my house 35 years ago.
Every electrician does this
@Mama C too cheap to get lexan plates?
I love you man. I was so horrible with caulking, I kept putting it off. I always made such a mess. In the house and on my boat. Your trick for caulking is unbelievably simple and a lifesaver. Thank you so much.
That's me! I've been putting it off, too! Now I think I could do it
Note that on the 3M Painters Tape directions it states that the tape should be removed within two weeks for easy removal. Back in the day a co-worker of mine was working with a steering wheel to install a prototype airbag. It was rapped in leather so he used several layers of blue tape to protect it. Well, the project took longer than expected and the tape would not come off. Instead of trying a solvent it was decided to have the steering wheel rewrapped with leather. Which was an expensive fix however it was necessary for the program to continue. The take away was to always read the directions-even for tape!
Oh definitely if you leave it on too long it'll tear that right up. Nowadays the painter tapes all have a 7 day clean release or 3 day clean release labeled exactly for that reason
Excellent tips, thanks! I would never have thought to use it for a caulking guideline, def glad to know that one!
The comments are so rude, jeeeez the guy is trying to inform you, half of you don’t own tape or know how to use it , support fellow you tubers not beat them up over microphone or age of tips being something you heard of . Lots of people get helpful tips from many sources , Sorry to see so many mean spirited people on a diy page
Thanks for the kind words. TH-cam has given me much thicker skin so it's all good. Most of the comments are kind and I'll always focus on those and learn what I can from the rest. And maybe roll my eyes a few times :)
Wow!!! You have the best ideas for painters tape!!! Wish I new these years ago. Particularly the writing on the tape, and put it on the switch plate.
Another tip, when you put tape w/ the paint info on the back of the wall plate, add a sample card or a large drop of the paint so if it that color is discontinued, the paint store can scan the drop/sample and mix it up for you.
It's 4:36 in the morning. I found your video serendipitously. Great information. I admit I would never have thought of that myself. Thanks for your training.
Nice!! Thanks! I only use Frog Tape for painting now though, I keep having terrible spots under my straight lines when using 3M blue tape. Frog tape gives me much cleaner lines and doesn't leave residue months (18 months for one project I still haven't finished lol) after first applied. But sine the 3M is cheaper, it works for everything else.
I've had the same luck as you. Over and over I'd apply painter's tape and it would consistently have random bleed-through where the paint still got on the area being masked. I'll give Frog Tape a shot.
I use it when hanging pictures. Put a strip on the wall, use the stud-finder and a level to work out where you want to drill, marking as required with a sharpie or a pen. Once you have drilled your holes, peel off the tape to remove all of the markings from the wall. I sometimes use yellow frog-tape for this, simply because a black sharpie stands out better than it would against blue tape.
Especially useful for hanging stuff with just the holes in the back where you need to put mounting screws perfectly. Tape on the back of the thing to be hung, poke holes where the hanger-keyhole recessed brackets are, then remove tape, put on wall and level. Drill now precisely
@@edwardschmitt5710 took me a second to realize you mean a single, long piece of tape, covering both mounting points, basically making a mini template with built in adhesive. Brilliant!
@@edwardschmitt5710 Brilliant!
That cutting the roll apart is the bomb!! I work as a volunteer in a 50+ shop and we go through a LOT of painter's tape. This is BRILLIANT! There are many times when we teach folks how to clamp with tape and this will make it so much easier. I don't know why I didn't think of this.
Setting the depth of cut on your circular saw properly helps too. (blade should only siick out 1/4 inch below piece)
I don't straighten the screw heads cuz I'm OCD about the plates being flat lol
I love the tip for bordering the caulking line! The end result is an extremely crisp, straight line, not like my caulk lines usually are.
Yeah my caulk usually makes a mess.
Very crafty...knew most of them, but there's always something new.
The tape-for-caulking is a thing of beauty.
As a renter, I was looking for a way to install two-by-fours to the wall and kitchen cabinet without using nails. The tape and glue combination will make this possible. Our temporary puppy gate is just a bit too short to fit between an odd-sized area without damaging the kitchen cabinet and the drywall opposite. This may just be the solution we need. Thank you so much.
You just blew my mind with the caulking trick! I have been struggling all this time to get perfect lines and this trick is the easiest way to get those perfect lines. Great job!!
Love the tip for noting the paint you've used and hiding it behind the lightswitch! Worth noting, though, that CA glue is super glue and water and accelerant works the same for both.
You can also put a small dab of paint on the tape and take the switch cover with you to the paint store to help color match it.
Thank you, yes! Cyanoacrylate *is* super glue
I'm happy that you took the time to straighten the screws on the switch cover. I do it too.
One thing that should be mentioned about tape is that it gets old, and when it does it can be overly sticky, so when your masking over a hardwood floor, when you remove it ,it can remove the existing finish. Only buy tape and paint from a paint store that moves inventory quickly. Try and stay away from hardware stores that may have products that have been on the shelves for sometimes years!
I love that you straightened out the light switch screws!
Dried-out masking tape/painter's tape? Pop the roll in the microwave for 20 seconds on high power. It reactivates the adhesive and makes the roll usable again.
And: don't pry with a chisel!
Love painter’s tape for caulking guidelines. Absolutely my favorite painters tape hack! 😊
I once painted over a bedroom that was previously painted the exact same color as 3M blue tape. It was freaky. And all I could envision was some houseowner going into the paint store, looking at a roll of blue tape, and saying "Yep, that's the color I want on all four walls of my bedroom." Crazy.
Haha! That’s too funny. Must have been trippy.
The caulking tip... blew my mind out!!!
Ahh... Super Glue is a trade name for Cyanoacrylate Adhesive (CA)
Good tips though.
So glad you straightened your screws on the wall plate! I always do that.😊
As a painter, two tips:
The same tip you use for making straight caulk lines can be extended to make sharp crisp lines between paint colors, such as at an accent. No masking tape is enough to keep paint from bleeding through, so caulk the tape line before you paint, and take up the tape immediately, while the caulk is still wet. The caulk prevents bleeding, and you get your perfect line between colors!
Gluing a 2x4 to the floor can help when ...
Using an extension ladder on wood floors and you need something to keep your ladder feet from slipping! Nice trick! I'll have to use that some day!
Glad I'm not the only one that straightens switch plate screws
I was taught the same trick for drilling drywall and masonry, but we put a an extra small strip flat against the wall, the put the "U- shape" pouch on top of that. When you remove the back piece you have a little pouch an nothing can fall accidentally.
Great tips. Looking forward to the next edition (s).
Stay well & safe.
Dude you blew my frickin mind with that caulking tip. Game changer yo
Oh man labeling the paint on the back of the switch plate is genius. So simple. Such a life saver.
To add to the idea of leaving paint info on the back of the switch plates, you could also make a 1"x1" sample of the paint and leave it there cause then the store could use it to colour match.
Can't believe I never new about the drywall u-shaped pocket. I've drilled hundreds of drywall holes over the past few decades and usually resorted to having the wife or kid hold a vacuum under the spot I was drilling. This is much more convenient. Thanks!
it can work. but what he showed in the video definitely didn't. I guarantee if he had pointed the camera down there was drywall on the ground. you could literally see dust falling below it.
@@darkpheonix77 I am sure it may not be perfect, but it must catch most of the dust. I have not had a need to do this lately, but the next time I do I am going to give it a try.
Awesome tips! I have to close some gaps in my laminate and while I was watching that portion of your video, I had an idea! What about using velcro strips (the kind that comes in a roll with the adhesive backing)? Opposite sides (one on floor panel, other on knocing board) and then do it that way? The only reason I thought of that was because when I use ANY and I mean ANY kind of adhesive, be it glue, PVC floor tile adhesive, etc, I get it EVERYWHERE except where I need it! I'm going to give it a shot and I'll post back here if it works!
what about using double-sided carpet tape then?
Did it work?
I volunteer in a 50+ woodshop and I teach the tear-out thing all the time. I also teach a lot of other techniques that I'm sure you'll cover, but tear-out is a thing with such an easy fix.
I used the caulk method when installing granite counteracts back splashes, makes the glue almost invisible, it's also good for damaged bumps on sheetrock, so,your stucco sits almost level with the surrounding sheet rock but just a tiny bit high when the tape is removed so only a little bit of sanding.
Nice!
Sorry if it's already been mentioned here (1.5k comments already), just wanted to add that painter's tape makes a fabulous door or drawer handle in a pinch, too. Tape the end inside the door or drawer then wrap it around the near side of the door or drawer and pull a long length off the tape. Then tape the other end just outside of the door or drawer and press the middle length of the tape together to firm the handle. It won't last forever but works when you need a handle in a pinch, such as when it breaks or you aren't ready to install handles yet (maybe you're painting first? 😉).
Thanks for the video!
As well as the paint info, it's also a good idea to include the circuit breaker # as well. On switches that control outlets, it's never safe to assume it shares the same breaker as other switches. I also do this for outlet covers as well. No more sequentially flipping breakers until you finally find the correct one.
That's for sure. There's a single circuit breaker that had gone bad in my dad's house and that's when I found out it actually controls not only the power and switches to both bedrooms, but also the power and switch to the garbage disposal in the kitchen. Everything else in the kitchen is on a different breaker.
@@PGIFilms By switches, do you mean light switches? Bcuz receptacles and lights are never supposed to be on the same circuit. [edit: never allowed for commercial/office application. Might be allowed in residential in some specific circumstances, but not when local codes prohibit it, or newer NEC code prohibits it.]
@@wownewstome6123 Yeah, the lights and receptacles in a given room are on the same circuit breaker. There are only 5 light fixtures (porch, entry way to living room, kitchen, utility/laundry room, and bathroom) but there are no fixtures in the 2 bedrooms. Each bedroom has 3 outlets and one of the 3 is connected to the wall switch. So the single breaker I was talking about controls 8 outlets (2 linked to switches in the bedrooms and 1 linked to the switch for the garbage disposal in the kitchen) spread out in 4 rooms. The condo complex he lives in was constructed back in the 80s if I remember correctly, so maybe this was considered within code for the time. If I had the money I'd tell him to get someone to redo the wiring with a larger circuit panel to put each bedroom on its own breaker.
@@PGIFilms Please see my edit/correction to my earlier comment. I agree that it probably was to code back then. Good that they kept the garbage disposal off the circuit for small appliances/kitchen counter, since not allowed.
@@PGIFilms What he may want added is a ground fault circuit interrupter for the garbage disposal. I'm surprised there isn't one in place already, since they have been available for decades. Now there is a similar device for arcs that may occur in the wall, which can cause a fire. There's a type of circuit breaker for the panel that is supposed to detect arcs, too.
Great tips. I especially liked the caulking one. Thanks
As a woodworker I like a lot of your tips, especially the tape & CA glue. I do have a wood floor that has gaps so I’ll try that. Thanks
Nice! I've got a more in depth video coming out Saturday about the floor gaps using this technique as well as a new kind of double sided tape but the idea is the same. Good luck!
@@LRN2DIY Hey, great video. I thought it was worth noting that CA glue and superglue are one and the same. :)
#3 is a great idea...thanks for having a creative mind...or sharing someone's creative mind.
Just a word of caution. The tape behind the lightswitch cover may be against electrical code. Not supposed to have anything flammable in those boxes. That's why when you buy wooden lightswitch covers they have a metal plate on the back. The caulking tip is genius BTW.
Anytime you want a perfect line when you butt two paint colors together, put your tape down and run a very light bead of caulking on the edge, wipe off the excess , paint as usual and pull off the tape before the caulk starts to set up and you have a perfect line.
@@danielquaternik22 Alternatively; paint 1st colour slightly beyond desired position - 1/4" to 1/2"; lay painter's tape, creating desired outline; paint thin layer of 1st colour on tape edge nearest planned area for 2nd colour; once dry, paint 2nd colour; peel tape = precision lines, every time.
Painting 1st colour on tape line seals tape edge with same colour as that beneath tape; any bleeding results in 1st colour on 1st colour = not distinguishable.
If transitioning colours in a vertical corner, draw a light score line (floor to ceiling) to create a miniscule separation between the two adjoining walls. As you paint, the slight hollow from the score line will prevent puddled or pooling paint from creeping over to the adjacent wall.
@@jasonarthurs3885 Thank you Jason. I think we are on the same path just slightly different ways of getting there. A good seal on the tape edge is key so no bleeding. Thanks
The caulking is fabulous. Thanks for this.
Nice video! One suggestion. The caulking tip is nice but in reality it leaves a tiny edge where dirt and mildew will form. This is very noticeable when caulking a bath tub and shower wall. To avoid this is to run your finger again over the caulk once the tape has been removed.
Wet your finger with water before running it over the caulk the second time. Acts as a lubricant and release agent.
= Better looking fillets! 👍
I like the tip to use the tape for caulking, it leaves a nice clean caulking line. Thanks!
Great tips. I have a couple questions, though. After cleaning the residue from the masking tape, how do you remove the residue from the WD40? Or does it not stain? Also.. Are you gonna remember to take off a lightswitch cover before you go shopping for paint?
Love the caulking tip!