How one person can easily set up a
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มี.ค. 2024
- An overview of how I secure my fibreglass masts for Amateur Radio use.
I was heavily influenced by this video of Tracy's -
• The Fastest and Easies...
Mastrant P 4mm rope
www.mastrant.com/on-line-shop...
Mastrant M 2mm rope
www.mastrant.com/on-line-shop...
Nitrile rubber sheet
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265328568632
40-60mm Stainless Steel Jubillee clip (Hose Clamp)
u-bolts-r-us.co.uk/hose-clip/...
Heavy duty galvanised tent poles
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252433179735
CL276 Clamcleat
www.clamcleat.com/medium-line...
Coroplast tape - Shop about for this.
www.landefeld.com/artikel/en/... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Hi Colin, it was Tracy who first influenced me into working outdoors. I remember seeing him out in the freezing cold enjoying himself with portable radio and I’ve followed him ever since and trying a lot of the variations of operating since. I’m biased to vertical antennas simply because they are easy to deploy and do not interfere with enquiring members of the public who tend to find anything loose. Moved home a week ago and internet access just a couple of days ago. Great vid 👍🏻 73 Mike
Thanks Mike. Tracy is a great guy. Good to hear your getting settled in and getting back on the air.
What a lovely pole! :)
Isnt it!
Funnily enough I have 3 of those as well 😂😂
Thanks Colin, looking forward to the transformer winding upload.👍🏻
Thanks. IMO the Autotransformer is easier than the twisted primary.
I use old bicycle inner tubes of various sizes to make stretch sleeves for the joints on my DX Commander poles. I then use electrical tape or zip ties depending on how long the deployment will be. We have a product from the big box lumber stores stateside called stretch and seal. Kind of a self vulcanizing tape that leaves no residue at all. That's great for a quick setup as well. Always look forward to your next vid. 73
Great shout. Love hearing how others go about things.
1. If you forget or break one of your cleats, it's good to know the "Arrow Head hitch". You can find TH-cam videos about it. It adjusts pretty well and is easy to untie. It may not be as strong as the cleat, but it has been strong enough for me.
2. Thanks for the tip on the tape. I'll have to try it. But I've been using KF7P Metalwerks "Grip Lock" ties. They are like strong zip ties except for two things: The inside surface has a rubber layer to protect the surface that you are clamping; and the ratchet pawl has a long tail that you can pull to release the tie. The rubber means that it doesn't take much tightness to keep it from slipping along the pole, so I put it just above a joint, so the rubber can grip the upper section and rest on the end of the lower section.
3. I have purchased, but have yet to try, a set of 5 guy rings from DX Engineering (part DXE-GR-5P, glass-reinforced poly-resin plastic). 5 sizes, and I figure that at least 2 of them will be suitable for my DX Commander poles, at least with a Grip Lock tie (or hose clamp) below it.
4. I have a different erection strategy that allows me to pre-extend the pole and secure the joints while it is lying flat. This also works with non-telescoping poles (like those mil surplus metal poles that plug together, end to end). You do need to place the guy anchors in advance (see below) and attach the uppermost set of guys in advance, at close to the correct length with only a little extra slack so that it can be lifted onto the step. Have the guy plat toward one anchor(or beyond, will depend on how steep these guys are) and the base between the other two anchors, and move the pole such that the foot comes closer to the step until two of the guys are taught. Now lift the pole near the guy plate, keeping those two guys and walk the foot in toward the step. The taught guys will lift and help stabilize the pole as it tilts up, and the third guy will become taught as the pole achieves vertical, preventing ti from falling through. Step the base, and snug up the guys.
5. I like your wooden plate step. But I push out the plug in the center of the DX Commander pole bottom and drop the base over a round headed tent stake. (The kind intended to be driven with a hammer, usually having a side wire to hook the a guy onto, but just a spike would work)
6. In case you have to deal with sloping ground, your guys, if pre-made, like mine, need to have significant adjustment range. The down hill guy or guys (could be all three at a summit) can need to be significantly longer. You don't want the guys to get too steep, since that gives less stabilization force and more collapsing force.
7. On flat ground, if you're fussy like me, and your anchors to be symmetric, it helps to know that the distance between anchors is bigger than the distance from the step to any anchor by a factor of sqrt(3). (1.732 is plenty close enough.) To make these measurements easy, I carry a piece of paracord with a loop at each end, and a knot R from one end, and R*sqrt(3) from the other end, where R is ho far I want the anchors from the step. Attach the short end at the step. (For me this is dropping the loop over the head of the step step.) Carry the knot to where you want the first anchor and make the short end taught: the knot marks the spot. Put in an anchor.drop the loop at the long end over this anchor, and carry the knot to each of the other two anchor locations, and when both ends of the line are taught, the knot marks the spot. No theodolite required. You can do this with one or two measuring tapes, but it's tricky without helpers.
73,, Bill - KE1G
Really appreciate the comments bill. I've taken a copy for future reference. I will try that knot first. 73.
Great stuff, Colin! 73 from VE3TWM.
Thanks again Tracy, you are the inspiration for this modified method 👏
Wow, thanks a lot, this one is really really useful! Best! Denis.
Thanks, it did take me a while to figure this setup but served me well since.
Thanks for the tip about coroplast tape. I'd never heard of it before but it's precisely what I'm looking for. Great suggestions all around. I'm also going to adopt your idea of using two loops instead of one for each of the three guy points on the pole. Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to put this together and share your experience. Take care. 73
Cheers Don. The coroplast tape is a great tip thanks to Rick. I lost the gloss coating off my 6m poles by using regular electrical tape.
Ive done this for a couple of years but i made an 8 inch spike plate that i push in the ground with my foot for the bottom of the pole. Rock solid is an understatement and a spiderbeam guy at 7 meters too.
Good shout 👌
Great tips. I do something similar with my mast.
Thanks Mike.
Nice one Colin
Thanks mate 👍
Great video guide Colin.
Thanks 👍
Something that you may want to try is using dyneema cord for your guy lines, using a whoopie sling. They are used in climbing and for supporting hammocks. Very strong, small diameter with no stretch. A whoopie sling is self contained, and infinitely adjustable, no buckle needed. There are many videos on how to make them, and they are light and compact. That said, I drive solid fiberglass rods, 11/16" diameter into the ground to support my squid poles. I also found some fishing pole holders that push into the ground, with a "spring" coil that holds the smaller poles. Thanks for all the great videos.
Thanks for the tips, I will give them a go.
Ingenious
Thanks 👍
Great video as always, Colin. I really like the idea of using hose clamps and sections of 3mm Nitrile to make tie points on the pole base! Cheers, Thomas
Thanks Thomas, not perfect but not let me down yet.
Nice. I put a small loop off cord around the top loop and attach a small “s-biner”. It’s small enough to stay on and fit under the cap when collapsed. 🍻
Great idea 👍
Thanks Colin. I have just ordered a Spiderbeam and have now ordered some of the hardware for it that you recommend. I’d be interested to see your tips on connecting various antennas to the pole and then erecting it.
I will look to make a video on this over the summer.
Your solution is more flexible than mine in terms of positioning mast. I screwed some wood to a concrete fence post, with super heavy duty cable ties going behind this and fastening to 68mm drainpipe, which supports Spider beam pole perfectly. Just have to gently twist it as you remove so bottom rubber bung comes out too.
Its not perfect but fits most of my needs.
Hi Colin I use Mastrant cordage and accessories they sell these on moon raker
Yep, it was Nevada I used, now Moonraker. Supply can be a bit up and down though.
nice presentation Colin. done exactly the same myself in the past, now i just wack it on a fence with plumber pipe clamps, dont need all the guys that way, radials all on one side of the fence doesn't seem to make any difference. I think Cal sells the clamps you use already with plastic on them, I think. cheers zl3xdj.
Cheers Brian. Ideal what you suggest when you have a fence. As you you unfortunately I can't have anything else up full time. As I have a public path to side and rear I cant put the pole on the fence as its breaking the EMF regs.
@@MM0OPXFieldRadio ok never heard of that before, presume that's keeping rf from being near the public.
Wonder how some of my uk mates get on with ants near neighbours. Cheers.
@@brianfields4479 its Mandated by Ofcom now mate. All UK licencees were contacted. We must do assessments for any antenna we use that it's far away from anyone other than the licencee. This includes your family. The RSGB has a simple online calculator. You will only be asked for it if Offcom come chapping your door. On the 1KW I was running the other week I needed 3.6m of horizontal spacing for example so needed to keep the mast in from the fence.
@@MM0OPXFieldRadio well I never, what next. Wonder what happens with folk who have indoor ants or ants on the wall of your house, like many do everywhere. Oh well, that's life these days eh.
Its all gone a bit mad mate!
🙂👍
Tnx Colin. Cheers de SM3TEK
Your welcome 🙏
Why not insert something to bring the inner sections up? Something conical so you can grip the centre and pull up instead of using wire. Maybe that rubber you have so you have better access to the sections.
Good shout 👏
I want to put up a 3 or 4 element lfa yagi for 11m. I want to go 50-60ft.
If I place rotator on the base, is a push up mast acceptable for permanent qth antenna?
Thats some height. On 11m you will have some "lensing" in your pattern. For me 30ft on 11m is fine. What you suggest is fine but it will need very securely fixed and checked regularly.