Soap up your fittings with liquid soap from a hand pump spray bottle to see if it leaks, it will bubble up if it leaking. Double check the side clearance on the front bags. I had mentioned on the last video that your upper brakets looked a little short and might cause binding. If it binds you will not get a full existent of the bag; however, it's had to judge from a video. Try using separate Schrader valves to check each bag for proper travel before you tee them. The Schrader valves are slow because of the size of their opening internally.
Hi chad Try removing the cones on the front and see if it will lift up the front. You could try the cones on the rear of the car and see if it will lift up. You might have a restriction in the connectors on the airbags as when you disconnected from the airbag it blew out a lot of air out of the line, even with low air pressure the airbags would fill up and lift the car slowly, but you are getting no pressure into the airbags. The shroud is to reduce the airbags from swelling outwards and to alow the air to fill the airbags vertical. Plus to protect the airbags from being damaged whilst in use. Both of you are looking good and humble plus the car elvis is looking good too.
test each bag line independently with the good valve. the splitter could be the problem too. also blow out the hoses with a blower. the bags blew off pressure nicely so the clog has to be up stream from them. like you say, probably the schrader valve
Could be the airlines being pinched in the t piece, causing it to be like a one way valve. More volume of air coming out than going in. Or a simple blockage in the T valve.
I think the shock/air bag is binding. There is a bit of an arc happening when the control arm swings. The assy would need to follow that arc to not bind.
Chad _ your air lines are clogged with trash. Take them apart and blow them out. _ Cutting the air lines with a grinder is not good. Use a sharp blade. _ Max Yearwood
i dod not know if this helps but when i was bagging 1998 s10 blazer i was first used 110 off and 90 psi on and it would not lift the truck right i then went to 145 off and think 115 on and it work if your aircompr. is putting out olny like 100 psi and your using a Reg. to set the pres. try turn it all the way up hope this help PS also the line can do it to look like your using 1/4 line i was using 1/2 on my s10 its was like 1/2 OD and 1/4 ID great videos
May be check that T my friend..It dose not take much to stop the air..Also the bag might be binding or twisted a little..I have had them bind on me before..Try may be with out the cup..Thanks guys..You rock..Jolene..Awesome Job ass always...But I think ya might have to hone out that T to allow for more volume of air..Good Luck bro..Yull get it done I,m sure!!...It,s always something minor...lol..We hope..
Need to pull them front shock's back out , dry test them . also you see the tank has 4x air line connections and pushes air even on single lines . there could be something in that Brass T , On the front set , it is something simple , your right there and i no it sucks when things go great on first set in back end , then the front gets messed up. Them Bags may need to be extended out or it is something to due with lower swing arm angle as you add air?? but as i said probably something simple we over Look .if feel yeah .lol I would be in there to help Like a Dirty shirt . Love the Garage , i was in mine every day years ago.
I reviewed the video a couple of times and I noticed the driver side dropping faster than the passenger side. Seeing that makes me think you don't have the weight of the motor pushing down on the bags is causing the problem. The weight of the motor would have the bag squished forcing it to go up and not just filling the canister. The control arms would lift better. Right now the control arms are absorbing most of the lift. Trouble shooting is a process of elimination. Why not try a single line to one air bag without the ' T '.see how fast it goes up. If it is the same then place 600 LBS of dead weight on cross member to load the bags then see how it works.
If you have a bad leak it falls to the ground, valve system could be not set right, air bag rubbing or heat number 1 problem all the time, dish soap and water and spray the hole air system if a little leak, or if you have a manifold set up manifold could be bad, have a 3/8 airline, pressure sensor could be bad, run hard lines though so there is no heat issues and less breakage .Every problem I could think of on an air ride system. hope one helps!
I think the valve adjustment on the shock is a dampening valve. It speeds or slows the recoil of the shock. Take the lines apart, starting at the shrader valve to the tee. You should have the same pressure as out of your compressor.
Since both airbags seem to be inflating at the same rate, I'd be looking for a flow restriction in the common section of the plumbing ie T piece, input line and Schrader valve. Start by checking that your airline is actually delivering >= 50psi. Move on to checking flow through the Schrader valve - should be a good blast, then add the input line and then add the T piece. I'm sure you'll get it sorted.
The adjustments on the airstruts is the dampening for the shocks so you can tune how it rides. The problem with the not lifting is using the Schrader valve it doesn't let enough air pressure to fill up the bags to lift the front of the car. And usually a air ride system is running 160-200 psi. I know it took 180 psi In the tank on my Mazda to lift the front up to 50-60 psi In the bags.
Hey Chad awesome build . I’m a Ford tech and I think the coyote engine would be the way to go .. Different companies make plug and play wiring harnesses for a swap like yours . They can be expensive but time as you say is always the question. I know guys who build there own and it was a nightmare. If you have a Ford dealer near you they may be able to guide you . You could check out Ford Motor Sport as well .
my dude ,for gods sake please if you want to throw the tv video s out the door no more rockets !!!!!!!!!!! man not to be a hater but love you both and the proper english is excuse me duck behind the car ,snot rocket unleach.......you the man .....tallent/hardwork/craftsmanship/will power/positiveity if thats how you spell it. you always express keep that head up and the rest will fallow. so true/so true. bigdog ,back on the the porch! peace out
Right around when u put the drivers brake drum on. The front grille & headlight assembly is shown , with respect to the side view of body lines….then I saw , what this car is…I see your vision of one Bad Car…WTF …that is bes Yet ! It’s still painful to watch you mechanical …lol ….right on Chad🇨🇦😊🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦😊
Would have saved yourself a lot of time by having a gauge with the right fitting to apply your chuck to and check pressure before connecting. Your shop uses around 35psi for painting and close to or over 100psi for your air tools, so this would be a good practice to develop whenever connecting to air (check pressure first) for safety reasons. Some air tools can't take a connection to 100psi safely.
Take the bucket off and weld a 5-6" tube into the top a-arm for the shock to pass through. I think you may be using the wrong shock for the application as it might not support the weight of the entire front end with a complete engine installed. And then there are 'helper' springs. oh, don't forget step#5... read instructions. Cheers and thanks for the daily updates Jolene :D
I’m wondering if you need to make a larger whole for the air bag or cone to fit through . I think I would check the tee fitting ,perhaps take line direct from drivers side without tee and pump directly tobag ,see if air goes better,then try same without tee,and see if maybe the tee is the problem ., I love the look ,I think it would great to sit lower when all the way down great looking machine ,keep up the good work
Chad and jolene you will probably find when you have the cups on the Air ride it will give you a harder or softer ride as the bag is being contained if you take off the cup you will probably then get the hight you want instead. Its like inflating an inner tube inside a tyre at the moment it just makes the ride harder . Hope you understand what I'm trying to say. Keep up the great work the both of you 👍
I agree Proportionet thats how you spell it , BUt look into the portion on the system you will solve it im sure . good luck . its something simple i''m sure . Thanks for your post keep on posting thamks
"Now we're in a pickle". I reckon most people watching this have been in many many similar pickles. This is what makes this channel so special. We see everything, pickles and all :-) Trust Fina to wait until the jack is out to walk under the car hahaha............just making a bee line to her bed. Thanks again guys.
This car is good and acceptable to the American community. I hope it will be popular to watch and even buy if you decide to sell it. I wish you good luck
The rear air shock is lifting the car direct or a 1 to 1 ratio the front is closest to the pivot end of the lower arm which multiplys lth weight it is lifting probably by 3 or 4 times 1 to 3 or more . If 1 inch of shock travel raises the car 3 inches that would be a 1 to 3 ratio and if the wheel had 300 pounds on it then the shock would be lifting 900 pounds. I would suggest moving the bottom mount outward on the bottom arm. Hope this helps
I watch almost every day. Enjoy always. Im learning stuff about autobody from you. Ty. Jolene does an excellent job of camera work and audio so i can see. I dont comment often but be sure i do appreciate what you guys do.
I think that the air bags on the rear are helped by the main spring leaf ,but the front must lift the weight by them selves. On systems by Ridetech use larger bags on the front . They have 4" and 5' bagged shocks for the rear and larger bagged shocks for the front. The larger the bag diameter the more the bag can handle at the same pressure
Chad, That knob is to adjust the rebound on the shocks. Nothing to do with the airbags. You have too much leverage built into the shock mount. Move the lower mount out on the control arm and you'll have better geometry. You could also use more pressure as that is a canned high pressure air bag. They normally run around 150 psi. Or lastly get a bigger air bag.
Hey Chad one issue you have is the small line and fittings you are using. It would help to use 1/2in line and a valve for the fast instant pressure. Keep up the great work
try coupling the air line to one side at a time. If that side comes up quicker, the Schraeder valve is restricting the air flow so it takes time to build enough pressure in the air bag to lift the car. With those push in fittings you can sometimes push an air blower nozzle straight in. Try that instead of the Schraeder valve and the air will go in a lot quicker.
everyone should want to lay down a few heavy lines of weld like weve seen chad do....is jolene getting to do any of that type also?...great show and job...its quite interesting what you produce fershir...
This is another great day in the life of the car :) Chad has done a great job with the modifications to the suspension. Jolene got some really great video of the process - like she always does. The testing today will be fun to watch.
Be nice to see it run/ move and complete air ride working. With this front end stuff, i like to assemble it right and proper once i know its all dialed in.
Wonder if Chad’s air compressor has a regulator on it since he paints? I heard it running and stop so up to tank pressure but maybe regulator in-line for paint guns and plasma cutter. Hmmm? He did put air in pig and said he was going to 100. So lots of pressure.
That's the coolest car I have ever seen! It would look awesome painted flat black. Maybe the problem is a faulty valve stem that came with the system. I've had faulty ones in the past.
If both front air bag lines are passing very little air, the problem must be a blockage in the centre leg of the tee or in that tube, or a faulty "tire valve". It does help to read the instructions too, in case you damage the unit. By the way, a box cutter does a quick, clean job cutting those tubes.
height depends on the bags you use, i have a setup on my chrysler 300 and the front are at top height 6" around 120psi but, the back are cheap ones that came with a rear kit i bought and they do not lift at all til about 90-100 and max out around 180 and only lift about 3". with that said i already have a new set for the back that will give me 6" of lift at 100-120 to match the front here waiting for a warm day to install.
I am thinking you should try reading the directions for the kit. I believe there is something blocking the lines or there is a control valve on the air bag that isn't set properly. Just a thought
Chad, lol, this mercury almost looks too normal for your style. All kidding aside, I appreciate your talents and your effort to involve the people who sit on the fence.
I always cut plastic air line with a razor blade knife because it cuts it nice and clean with no debris. It does not take much to clog up air fittings.
The cone would require less air to lift the car do to the restriction of the bag expansion causing greater lift. The rear needs the cones as you can see the bags expanding larger than the size of the cone that would be covering it. I would check one side at a time before pulling the wheels off. The problem seems to be in the T or the shock setting. Just my Belly Button! Great show
It could be the new air valve not mating up with the air supply air valve. I have had to buy two or three new supply air valve to put air in new innertubes because the one I had would not work, it did basically the same thing yours is doing. You asked us if we would go with a 350 or Coyote engine. If I was building a show car and wanted to be happy, I definitely would put a newer Ford Coyote engine. Get it all painted up and pretty and put it in it. I would never cover it after doing all that hard work building the car. If you go with the 350, spray grease remover on it, take it to a car wash and spray it off and bring it home and paint it up.
You have the bottom bracket too close to the fulcrum point it needs to be further out towards the wheel so it's easier for the bag to lift. It's all about leverage the closer the bottom bracket is to the pivot point the grater the lifting force is needs to be magnified in order to push it up andvthe further away from the pivot point 👉 you move the bracket the easier it will be for the bag to do its job.....I will take a shirt XXL lol
Last time I watch this he did not have a drive train in it so you can’t test the airbags without an inch and transformation in the car and adds extra weight I’m sure you installed it fine
I will say one thing, never get under a vehicle with airbags. It could come down on you at anytime. I work with buses and that's one thing we never do unless it's on a lift or has stands under it. Be safe my friend. Maybe take the front bags off and test them off the car with and without the cups.
Good on you mate. Just a matter of diagnosing it…you’ll get it 👍 The cups should be fine on there…I have almost identical on my Harley. Cups are to protect the bag as well as look better.
Chad--You have answered the your own question Those are Air Assist Shocks. (keyword-shocks). They are intended to give you control of the ride not to hold the weight of the car. Totally different from the lift ones you see making the car go up and down.
My SOP has always been - WHEN A JOB JUST WON'T WORK, DIG THE DIRECTIONS OUT OF THE TRASH AND READ HOW IT SHOULD I SUPPOSED TO DO IT. Good luck! I'm sure you will solve the riddle.
I would look into the 7.3 Godzilla, it’s modern like the Coyote 5.0 but the 7.3 is a pushrod engine so hauling and towing will be a breeze. I would be spend a little bit of $ there if your planning on using it to tow present and future projects could be a good investment. You’ll figure out the bag situation just something you’ll have to play with.
@@tobygathergood4990 I would check with MonsterTransmissions or a similar company as I’m sure they would be able to adapt something in a manual. I’m not a fan of these 10 speed automatics either 👍
Check to see if the brass tees have a regular valve in them or if they have shrader valves. If they have shrader valves like they use in road bikes then you need to get a kit at your local bike shop so you can use a regular air chuck like the one you are using in the show. You cannot get enough air other wise.
The angle of your A arms The way they moves it is what's is binding the air shock You will brake the air shock If you keep tring it Realine your pivit bracket And move it with no load on it moves freely This means cutting your welds off your pivots points Tacking an test before you Finishing welding The alinement will take some Time to get right
The simplest tool for the air lines is a razor knife because the grinding wheel melts the line because of the heat it builds up and with the razor knife you won’t have burrs
Soap up your fittings with liquid soap from a hand pump spray bottle to see if it leaks, it will bubble up if it leaking.
Double check the side clearance on the front bags. I had mentioned on the last video that your upper brakets looked a little short and might cause binding. If it binds you will not get a full existent of the bag; however, it's had to judge from a video.
Try using separate Schrader valves to check each bag for proper travel before you tee them. The Schrader valves are slow because of the size of their opening internally.
Hi chad
Try removing the cones on the front and see if it will lift up the front.
You could try the cones on the rear of the car and see if it will lift up.
You might have a restriction in the connectors on the airbags as when you disconnected from the airbag it blew out a lot of air out of the line, even with low air pressure the airbags would fill up and lift the car slowly, but you are getting no pressure into the airbags.
The shroud is to reduce the airbags from swelling outwards and to alow the air to fill the airbags vertical. Plus to protect the airbags from being damaged whilst in use.
Both of you are looking good and humble plus the car elvis is looking good too.
Swap Schrader valve with the one in rear. Since rear is working good.
test each bag line independently with the good valve.
the splitter could be the problem too.
also blow out the hoses with a blower.
the bags blew off pressure nicely so the clog has to be up stream from them.
like you say, probably the schrader valve
Agreed. There wasn't enough pressure out the lines when he tested them off the car. Shrader valve it is.
I agree, i say the shrader valve is restricting the flow
Yep start simple eliminate each part one at a time. Most off all do what blokes generally don't do read the instructions lol
Could be the airlines being pinched in the t piece, causing it to be like a one way valve. More volume of air coming out than going in. Or a simple blockage in the T valve.
I think the shock/air bag is binding. There is a bit of an arc happening when the control arm swings. The assy would need to follow that arc to not bind.
Chad _ your air lines are clogged with trash. Take them apart and blow them out. _ Cutting the air lines with a grinder is not good. Use a sharp blade. _ Max Yearwood
i dod not know if this helps but when i was bagging 1998 s10 blazer i was first used 110 off and 90 psi on and it would not lift the truck right
i then went to 145 off and think 115 on and it work
if your aircompr. is putting out olny like 100 psi and your using a Reg. to set the pres. try turn it all the way up
hope this help
PS also the line can do it to look like your using 1/4 line i was using 1/2 on my s10 its was like 1/2 OD and 1/4 ID
great videos
May be check that T my friend..It dose not take much to stop the air..Also the bag might be binding or twisted a little..I have had them bind on me before..Try may be with out the cup..Thanks guys..You rock..Jolene..Awesome Job ass always...But I think ya might have to hone out that T to allow for more volume of air..Good Luck bro..Yull get it done I,m sure!!...It,s always something minor...lol..We hope..
Need to pull them front shock's back out , dry test them . also you see the tank has 4x air line connections and pushes air even on single lines . there could be something in that Brass T , On the front set , it is something simple , your right there and i no it sucks when things go great on first set in back end , then the front gets messed up. Them Bags may need to be extended out or it is something to due with lower swing arm angle as you add air?? but as i said probably something simple we over Look .if feel yeah .lol I would be in there to help Like a Dirty shirt . Love the Garage , i was in mine every day years ago.
I reviewed the video a couple of times and I noticed the driver side dropping faster than the passenger side. Seeing that makes me think you don't have the weight of the motor pushing down on the bags is causing the problem. The weight of the motor would have the bag squished forcing it to go up and not just filling the canister. The control arms would lift better. Right now the control arms are absorbing most of the lift. Trouble shooting is a process of elimination. Why not try a single line to one air bag without the ' T '.see how fast it goes up. If it is the same then place 600 LBS of dead weight on cross member to load the bags then see how it works.
If you have a bad leak it falls to the ground, valve system could be not set right, air bag rubbing or heat number 1 problem all the time, dish soap and water and spray the hole air system if a little leak, or if you have a manifold set up manifold could be bad, have a 3/8 airline, pressure sensor could be bad, run hard lines though so there is no heat issues and less breakage .Every problem I could think of on an air ride system. hope one helps!
This car will look great sitting down in the weeds. Great job Chad!
Hopefully the oil pan doesn’t hit
If the car is lifted with a jack and the air enters the air bucks, this means that the car is heavy or the system is not in its correct place
I think so too
I think the valve adjustment on the shock is a dampening valve. It speeds or slows the recoil of the shock. Take the lines apart, starting at the shrader valve to the tee. You should have the same pressure as out of your compressor.
Since both airbags seem to be inflating at the same rate, I'd be looking for a flow restriction in the common section of the plumbing ie T piece, input line and Schrader valve. Start by checking that your airline is actually delivering >= 50psi. Move on to checking flow through the Schrader valve - should be a good blast, then add the input line and then add the T piece. I'm sure you'll get it sorted.
Air it up without the valve core and see what happens.
The adjustments on the airstruts is the dampening for the shocks so you can tune how it rides. The problem with the not lifting is using the Schrader valve it doesn't let enough air pressure to fill up the bags to lift the front of the car. And usually a air ride system is running 160-200 psi. I know it took 180 psi In the tank on my Mazda to lift the front up to 50-60 psi In the bags.
Hey Chad awesome build . I’m a Ford tech and I think the coyote engine would be the way to go .. Different companies make plug and play wiring harnesses for a swap like yours . They can be expensive but time as you say is always the question. I know guys who build there own and it was a nightmare.
If you have a Ford dealer near you they may be able to guide you . You could check out Ford Motor Sport as well .
Air ride looking good
my dude ,for gods sake please if you want to throw the tv video s out the door no more rockets !!!!!!!!!!! man not to be a hater but love you both and the proper english is excuse me duck behind the car ,snot rocket unleach.......you the man .....tallent/hardwork/craftsmanship/will power/positiveity if thats how you spell it. you always express keep that head up and the rest will fallow. so true/so true. bigdog ,back on the the porch! peace out
Right around when u put the drivers brake drum on. The front grille & headlight assembly is shown , with respect to the side view of body lines….then I saw , what this car is…I see your vision of one Bad Car…WTF …that is bes Yet !
It’s still painful to watch you mechanical …lol ….right on Chad🇨🇦😊🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦😊
Would have saved yourself a lot of time by having a gauge with the right fitting to apply your chuck to and check pressure before connecting. Your shop uses around 35psi for painting and close to or over 100psi for your air tools, so this would be a good practice to develop whenever connecting to air (check pressure first) for safety reasons. Some air tools can't take a connection to 100psi safely.
Gauges are your friend.
Take the bucket off and weld a 5-6" tube into the top a-arm for the shock to pass through. I think you may be using the wrong shock for the application as it might not support the weight of the entire front end with a complete engine installed.
And then there are 'helper' springs.
oh, don't forget step#5... read instructions.
Cheers and thanks for the daily updates Jolene :D
cant wait to see the air-ride in action thanks chad n jolene
I think this might have been a good way to go w/ Jolene's Bugatti rather than bags and separate dampers.
I’m wondering if you need to make a larger whole for the air bag or cone to fit through . I think I would check the tee fitting ,perhaps take line direct from drivers side without tee and pump directly tobag ,see if air goes better,then try same without tee,and see if maybe the tee is the problem ., I love the look ,I think it would great to sit lower when all the way down great looking machine ,keep up the good work
Look forward to it
cant wait to see it working
Chad and jolene you will probably find when you have the cups on the Air ride it will give you a harder or softer ride as the bag is being contained if you take off the cup you will probably then get the hight you want instead. Its like inflating an inner tube inside a tyre at the moment it just makes the ride harder . Hope you understand what I'm trying to say. Keep up the great work the both of you 👍
Try to loosen the schrader. It's probably not opening the check on your air chuck. Happens to me all the time with refrigeration systems.
You'll get it sorted Chad! Maybe try swapping the t fitting with the back and see if it makes a difference.
I agree Proportionet thats how you spell it , BUt look into the portion on the system you will solve it im sure . good luck . its something simple i''m sure . Thanks for your post keep on posting thamks
I to think it’s that valve stem fitting up front , because even when he had the lines off the bags it wasn’t letting enough air through the lines.
The air ride, never had to deal with adjusters on the shocks. Manual may give you an idea.
"Now we're in a pickle". I reckon most people watching this have been in many many similar pickles. This is what makes this channel so special. We see everything, pickles and all :-)
Trust Fina to wait until the jack is out to walk under the car hahaha............just making a bee line to her bed. Thanks again guys.
Chad and Jolene are such a good team. It takes hard work from both to bring us these great videos.
This car will be eye candy
This car is good and acceptable to the American community. I hope it will be popular to watch and even buy if you decide to sell it. I wish you good luck
U need to win a hat just so we can hear him say ur name lol
The rear air shock is lifting the car direct or a 1 to 1 ratio the front is closest to the pivot end of the lower arm which multiplys lth weight it is lifting probably by 3 or 4 times 1 to 3 or more . If 1 inch of shock travel raises the car 3 inches that would be a 1 to 3 ratio and if the wheel had 300 pounds on it then the shock would be lifting 900 pounds.
I would suggest moving the bottom mount outward on the bottom arm.
Hope this helps
Boingy boingy boingy. It's aliiiiive!!!! Can't wait to see this.
Best content on TH-cam. Keep up the good work Chad & Jolene.
I watch almost every day. Enjoy always. Im learning stuff about autobody from you. Ty. Jolene does an excellent job of camera work and audio so i can see. I dont comment often but be sure i do appreciate what you guys do.
I think that the air bags on the rear are helped by the main spring leaf ,but the front must lift the weight by them selves. On systems by Ridetech use larger bags on the front . They have 4" and 5' bagged shocks for the rear and larger bagged shocks for the front. The larger the bag diameter the more the bag can handle at the same pressure
Chad, That knob is to adjust the rebound on the shocks. Nothing to do with the airbags.
You have too much leverage built into the shock mount. Move the lower mount out on the control arm and you'll have better geometry. You could also use more pressure as that is a canned high pressure air bag. They normally run around 150 psi. Or lastly get a bigger air bag.
Elvis is going to be an awesome ride with that system on it. Chad, I thank you for the wealth of knowledge that you share with us.
glad air rides done wana see paint going on
Lets get down to the ground. Thanks for the video
70. No so afraid to do the front air bags now. Thanks Chad..and Jolene for the excellent camera work.. dident miss a thing
air bags should work great.....best on you tube
Hey Chad one issue you have is the small line and fittings you are using. It would help to use 1/2in line and a valve for the fast instant pressure. Keep up the great work
try coupling the air line to one side at a time. If that side comes up quicker, the Schraeder valve is restricting the air flow so it takes time to build enough pressure in the air bag to lift the car.
With those push in fittings you can sometimes push an air blower nozzle straight in. Try that instead of the Schraeder valve and the air will go in a lot quicker.
looks perfect good job maybe might be the tee fitting
Looks good sir!
Use a sharp razor blade on the airline to cut it, it'll make a clean cut.
Diggin the build.
everyone should want to lay down a few heavy lines of weld like weve seen chad do....is jolene getting to do any of that type also?...great show and job...its quite interesting what you produce fershir...
Chad is a master welder, no doubt.
There was little to no air on either line when the bags were unhooked. So its either blocked in the T or the valve stem is bad.
This is another great day in the life of the car :) Chad has done a great job with the modifications to the suspension. Jolene got some really great video of the process - like she always does. The testing today will be fun to watch.
Be nice to see it run/ move and complete air ride working.
With this front end stuff, i like to assemble it right and proper once i know its all dialed in.
Wonder if Chad’s air compressor has a regulator on it since he paints? I heard it running and stop so up to tank pressure but maybe regulator in-line for paint guns and plasma cutter. Hmmm? He did put air in pig and said he was going to 100. So lots of pressure.
That's the coolest car I have ever seen! It would look awesome painted flat black. Maybe the problem is a faulty valve stem that came with the system. I've had faulty ones in the past.
If both front air bag lines are passing very little air, the problem must be a blockage in the centre leg of the tee or in that tube, or a faulty "tire valve". It does help to read the instructions too, in case you damage the unit.
By the way, a box cutter does a quick, clean job cutting those tubes.
Chad the rear of the car has a spring and helps it move faster probably
height depends on the bags you use, i have a setup on my chrysler 300 and the front are at top height 6" around 120psi but, the back are cheap ones that came with a rear kit i bought and they do not lift at all til about 90-100 and max out around 180 and only lift about 3". with that said i already have a new set for the back that will give me 6" of lift at 100-120 to match the front here waiting for a warm day to install.
I am thinking you should try reading the directions for the kit. I believe there is something blocking the lines or there is a control valve on the air bag that isn't set properly. Just a thought
Lookin good Chad hope you get the air ride problem fixed up
Chad, lol, this mercury almost looks too normal for your style. All kidding aside, I appreciate your talents and your effort to involve the people who sit on the fence.
A PVC cutter that is used in lawn sprinkler work, works EXCELLENT for cutting that tubing....No burs, no contaminants.
Thanks for the tour and visit today it was great to meet you both and see your work!! 👍
I always cut plastic air line with a razor blade knife because it cuts it nice and clean with no debris. It does not take much to clog up air fittings.
The cone would require less air to lift the car do to the restriction of the bag expansion causing greater lift. The rear needs the cones as you can see the bags expanding larger than the size of the cone that would be covering it. I would check one side at a time before pulling the wheels off. The problem seems to be in the T or the shock setting. Just my Belly Button! Great show
It could be the new air valve not mating up with the air supply air valve. I have had to buy two or three new supply air valve to put air in new innertubes because the one I had would not work, it did basically the same thing yours is doing. You asked us if we would go with a 350 or Coyote engine. If I was building a show car and wanted to be happy, I definitely would put a newer Ford Coyote engine. Get it all painted up and pretty and put it in it. I would never cover it after doing all that hard work building the car. If you go with the 350, spray grease remover on it, take it to a car wash and spray it off and bring it home and paint it up.
Looks awesome I would replace t valve Or check it one air line at a time
This is an awesome build. Have you had any thoughts on the interior?
You have the bottom bracket too close to the fulcrum point it needs to be further out towards the wheel so it's easier for the bag to lift.
It's all about leverage the closer the bottom bracket is to the pivot point the grater the lifting force is needs to be magnified in order to push it up andvthe further away from the pivot point 👉 you move the bracket the easier it will be for the bag to do its job.....I will take a shirt XXL lol
Sweet deep purple with pink on doors and do ur glass trick would look sick
Last time I watch this he did not have a drive train in it so you can’t test the airbags without an inch and transformation in the car and adds extra weight I’m sure you installed it fine
Another great video thanks guys
Hello HILTZ MOTOR CO. Looks like you might have a bad fitting not letting air go through. You should have more air coming out of the lines
Check all your fittings are clear and have good air flow Chad!
DUDE DUDE DUDE THE VALVE IS BAD...TAKE THE ONE FROM THE BACK TRY IT ON THE FRONT GOOD LUCK LOVE THE SHOW
Oh it will work guaranteed look forward to every to be inspired
I will say one thing, never get under a vehicle with airbags. It could come down on you at anytime. I work with buses and that's one thing we never do unless it's on a lift or has stands under it. Be safe my friend. Maybe take the front bags off and test them off the car with and without the cups.
The underneath of the car shows a lot of work you have done and to me looks amazing, my man Chad and his nice looking woman to me #1, Thanks people
Good on you mate. Just a matter of diagnosing it…you’ll get it 👍
The cups should be fine on there…I have almost identical on my Harley. Cups are to protect the bag as well as look better.
Chad--You have answered the your own question Those are Air Assist Shocks. (keyword-shocks). They are intended to give you control of the ride not to hold the weight of the car. Totally different from the lift ones you see making the car go up and down.
Just mocked up. still have a long way to go with the rest of the install. Concept is great and looks good.
He sure does. Chad puts 100% effort in his work.
Did your 55 have a “Bermuda bell”
Great stuff
Whoa! I hate having to stop and read directions but sometimes it’s all we can do,but no doubt in my mind you’ll figure it out 👍😀
My SOP has always been - WHEN A JOB JUST WON'T WORK, DIG THE DIRECTIONS OUT OF THE TRASH AND READ HOW IT SHOULD I SUPPOSED TO DO IT. Good luck! I'm sure you will solve the riddle.
Good to see it kind of working, good luck 👍
I would look into the 7.3 Godzilla, it’s modern like the Coyote 5.0 but the 7.3 is a pushrod engine so hauling and towing will be a breeze. I would be spend a little bit of $ there if your planning on using it to tow present and future projects could be a good investment. You’ll figure out the bag situation just something you’ll have to play with.
@@tobygathergood4990 I would check with MonsterTransmissions or a similar company as I’m sure they would be able to adapt something in a manual. I’m not a fan of these 10 speed automatics either 👍
@@tobygathergood4990 very true. They just don’t make things like they use to.
Check to see if the brass tees have a regular valve in them or if they have shrader valves. If they have shrader valves like they use in road bikes then you need to get a kit at your local bike shop so you can use a regular air chuck like the one you are using in the show. You cannot get enough air other wise.
Hi guys I won a Tshirt and I don't know where to send my details
The angle of your A arms
The way they moves it is what's is binding the air shock
You will brake the air shock
If you keep tring it
Realine your pivit bracket
And move it with no load on it moves freely
This means cutting your welds off your pivots points
Tacking an test before you
Finishing welding
The alinement will take some
Time to get right
Awesome vid man, Thanks.
Looking good, nice and even. Will look great going down the road 👍💥
Chad will work it out.... He always does figure it out in the end 👍
Thanks for the bad bags Henry! Just kidding you'll figure it out looks great down low.
It deserves more then just a black paint
I think so too. At least two or three tone. Got a love the scallop on the side
I can see that salmon and black colour scheme looking good.
350 will be very reliable, and you already have it!👍👍
Mounts are done very nice, the car looks good laid out👍
If anybody can figure out what was happening to the front airbags, it will be Bad Chad himself! I have all my trust & faith in him 100%
Nice work! Just a little troubleshooting left to do!
The simplest tool for the air lines is a razor knife because the grinding wheel melts the line because of the heat it builds up and with the razor knife you won’t have burrs
Take a shock off and try it by its self to see if it works
Swap the valve from the back to the front see if that works, doesn’t seem to be enough pressure going through the lines Chad, hope this helps 👍