Fixing problems with Phillips PCA061 colour analyser and RA4 prints from calibration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2021
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In this video I fixed my Phillips PCA061 color analysis and made my first prints on the new settings, found problems with my printing and set up the process. I also bought new paper for larger format color printing (but more on that in the next videos) and restocked my negative storage system.
Thank you for taking the time to provide insight and practical knowledge.
Thank you for support!
good video. Came because of the analyser and got a lot more valuable information. Thanks
Thx for support!
I use the same analyser and also get very good results. Like you pointed out, once calibrated you save lots of material if you stick to the same film type. As mentioned below, looks complicated but just follow the step-by-step instructions. Would not try using one of these without the manual. Tip for opening the bottles, usually you can flip the cap over and give it a twist. The small teeth neatly removes the foil.
Thx for supporting!
I have a question about 11:32. After calibration, did you have to measure each dial by setting it to zero, or did you only do this for Cyan?
Also, I’m confused about the calibration process itself. Did you measure with the sensor and set the dials manually afterwards?
You can check this video on my channel: th-cam.com/video/h_dOBzsGhF4/w-d-xo.html
or just google manual for the device:
www.docdroid.net/r6kKyvA/philips-pca-061-manual-english-pdf
It's really self explanatory.
Well I received mine (PCA 060) and the detector motor doesn't even turn. I'm in for a lonnnng debugging session.
Oh, good luck!
I don't quite understand how the color analyser works, but it seems rather complicated to use.
I've heard that it was used when many prints had to be made at once, to be consistent, but still isn't totally necessary.
In general, this device is an exposure meter with three rotating filters that measures exposure in three channels. It is extremely easy to use, which may not be very obvious from the video, since it takes place in the dark.
Step one is to get a good balanced print (you can use any print or calibration target as i used before) on a large enough print so that the exposure time is between 10 and 20 seconds. Then set the calibration knobs to central positions and adjust the shutter speed knob on the instrument according to your exposure and adjust the knob for channel C, then for the other channels one by one. And that's it - the calibration is over. Once this is done, you can copy the settings to another negative and it is almost irrelevant to which negative and how it was taken. You can change the magnification for the same negative and recalculate the exposure time and do other things that make life insanely easier and reduce the cost of paper and developer. The main purpose of this device is to take away the routine selection of exposure and color and go straight to more precise corrections from some less than average point or to creative color changes. Given its ridiculously low cost and my interest in how this thing works - I honestly enjoyed using it despite its primitiveness and shortcomings.
@@NordicLab
Wow, that's really interesting !
Thanks for explaining.
How do I remove a Newtonian ring?
It depends on your negative holder. If you have standard glass in holder - it will create problems. So on general good pair special glass holder will help, or you can completely remove glass. Additionally you can clean holder with acetone/IPA and dry it fully. It can happen if you though glass surface and filled surface with hand oil.
@@NordicLab ok thanks a lot, i will try it