Some engines have a breather on one side and a regular ball and spring PCV on the other bank. If you have unregulated vacuum applied to the crankcase without the breather, expect seals to be put under the strain of negative pressure, and under the extra positive pressure strain of an occasional backfire. The big issue with PCV's is the way an open failure draws more than expected oil into the intake during high vacuum seen with idling, causing oil consumption, fouling, and gunk coating intake valves especially with a GDI engine. My 2000 LM7 LS variant has a proper PCV and I don't fiddle with it, except to be sure it is still working.
Can say 100% legit because when it fails, it causes major oil consumption issues. If you can’t replace the valve covers, remove them and spray penetrating blaster in the breathe channel and brake fluid to clean out. Air hose it out and change the PVC. Clean your throttle body with throttle body cleaner and reassemble. It’ll smoke the deposits after but should be good after a 15 mile drive.
Definitely helped me glad you put this video up cause I got to replace my valve cover gaskets on the 05 Silverado and it has the same style of valve and wasn’t sure if I needed to replace it but now I know for sure just the gaskets👍🏽
If I can add one more comment through experience, you may notice oil pressure issues upon start up when the oil pressure will go to almost 0 and then as the engine warms up returns to normal. You may even drop a lifter at highway speeds. Most of these engines, 4.8, 5.3, 6.0. will start cavitating air into the oil galleries because the O-ring at the top of the pick up tube has deteriorated after approximately 175,000 miles. They all seem to do it and it’s a simple fix. Remove the oil pan and replace the O-ring, but best to have an experienced shop do it because the oil pan gasket can be a bear to reseal properly. Also replace the O-rings on the oil cooler block on the side of the engine. Good motoring!
Thanks for sharing your experience! That’s a great tip about the pickup tube O-ring-I’ve heard of that causing issues, and it’s good to know it’s common around 175,000 miles. I’ll definitely keep that in mind, along with replacing the oil cooler block O-rings. Thanks again, and happy motoring to you too!
What’s happening is that the single drain hole at the back inside valve cover baffling is plugged, causing the oil to pool and then get pulled up by the PCV orifice and into the Plenum. Every time I stop at a traffic light, I drive away and leave a big puff of blue smoke. Took the valve cover off, drilled extra holes in the baffling and enlarged the single factory hole in the baffling so the oil drains into the engine again. Don’t enlarge the PCV fitting hole, you could be asking for problems.
Thanks for the detailed explanation! That makes a lot of sense, especially with the blue smoke after stops. Drilling extra holes and enlarging the factory drain hole in the baffling sounds like a smart fix. I’ll definitely avoid touching the PCV fitting hole to steer clear of potential issues. Appreciate the tip-it’s always great to learn from others' experiences!
@@RocketGarageService these engines are indestructible and I’m thankful for them. I drive delivery on my 2005 Chevy express cube van with a 4.8. I’m on the second engine now and have the third in line ready to go with the updates. The truck has over 600,000 miles now.
I just realized that my early 2009 production LS3 in my 2010 Camaro SS, has been super horrible blowby. I noticed it at first through the throttle body, so that was bad enough. Then, I installed an oil catch can and my horrors came true. I don’t have AFM/DOD, so I also don’t have a PCV. Chevy uses a flexible u-shaped connection to share a port from the engine valley cover, to the intake manifold. The driver side valve cover is capped off from the factory for this reason. Anyways, I noticed my oil catch can filling up literally every 4-5 days, driving more than 200-250 miles (not including hard driving, etc). My engine/car only has barely 35k miles, and I figured the piston rings weren’t bad (never got it compression checked), the spark plugs seemed okay, and the valley cover gasket couldn’t possibly be messed up. I’m gonna see if I can install an in-line PCV valve (3/8”) either through the inlet of my catch can, which goes to the intake manifold. I believe that this will remedy all the oil blow-by, as a result of the engine design
Making the holes in the pcv restrictors is a mistake. By doing so, you've allowed even more oil vapor into your crank case vent system. You've also interrupted the intake air flow. A catch can will only catch the oil - BUT - the air flow interruption caused by these enlarged holes is probably making your engine idle rough, incomplete fuel burn, and/or/possible detonation. The best way to reduce oil into the intake - is to leave the holes alone, install a catch can, and route fresh air into a valve cover - and dirty air from the valley port (or other valve cover) to a catch can, then into the intake.
This was part of my own research and knowledge. I wanted to run a PCV system to a catch can that was vented to the air. No connection to the intake at all. In the end, I switched up catch can setups. And connected my PCV system to the later version PCV through the valley tray > into a catch can > then the intake.
It started as a real replaceable pcv valve in 99-02 trucks (Camaro and corvette starting in 97) then gm made a fixed orifice update for the valve with no valve in it. Then in 06/early 07 they changed the driver side valve cover to a non replaceable fixed orifice valve cover with improved internal pcv routing for reduced oil consumption.
Thanks for posting. Hard to find a good answer for PCV upgrades. 1999-2006 chevy 5.3L I ran a catch can from driver (updated) valve cover to intake manifold. Blocked the throttle body port and put a breather on passenger cover. Better mileage and performance. Did widening this hole in the driver cover improve anything for you?
At first, I ran my catch can just as a vent. Not connecting the valve cover to the engine. Yes that made a big difference opening to oriface. Since then, I have went back to traditional catch can ans connected the valve cover to the engine. I went from having a good bit of condensation (E85 life) to now, a little bit of oil. I am running some kind of PVC valve now. But I cannot remember how I reconfigured it.
I just realized that my early 2009 production LS3 in my 2010 Camaro SS, has been super horrible blowby. I noticed it at first through the throttle body, so that was bad enough. Then, I installed an oil catch can and my horrors came true. I don’t have AFM/DOD, so I also don’t have a PCV. Chevy uses a flexible u-shaped connection to share a port from the engine valley cover, to the intake manifold. The driver side valve cover is capped off from the factory for this reason. Anyways, I noticed my oil catch can filling up literally every 4-5 days, driving more than 200-250 miles (not including hard driving, etc). My engine/car only has barely 35k miles, and I figured the piston rings weren’t bad (never got it compression checked), the spark plugs seemed okay, and the valley cover gasket couldn’t possibly be messed up. I’m gonna see if I can install an in-line PCV valve (3/8”) either through the inlet of my catch can, which goes to the intake manifold. I believe that this will remedy all the oil blow-by, as a result of the engine design
@@jamesd6247 Nope, seems exactly like what would come directly from my engine. Seeing as how it collects excessively (half to 3/4 can full) within 5-7 days’ worth of driving around ~200-275 miles, I find that to be a ton. It would probably get sucked back up into the intake manifold if I didn’t empty out the can after 8-9, maybe 10 days tops. The only thing so far that I haven’t done, is an actual compression test. My car/engine has 35k all original miles right now, and it’s bone stock, minus some bolt-on mods and a custom tune. I assumed the engine valley cover was fine, and some people assumed that I might have stuck piston rings. I’ve ran top engine/intake system and valve cleaner through the intake hose, to the throttle body, as well as running Seafoam and other engine cleaning formulas (made to go into the fuel tank AND engine crank case). I ended up running an additional in-line PCV valve through the inlet section of my oil catch can routing. I am seeing less blow-by as of the past 5-6 days, but I might leave it for another 6-7 days to check for sure. Someone told me to take out the spark plugs, and soak the pistons from the top down, with Berryman’s B12 or B50 Chemtool formula. I don’t think I can do that method though….
@@isnowyazn I just watched some pros say you can never have too much venting. They were doing most of their own plumbing and didn't talk much about sucking or blowing oil. I did have the impression that is where you may have been going having mentioned design. Was hoping it was something simple.
I ran into something similar when doing the LS swap on my K5 a few years ago and it had the built-in PCV "orifice" on the driver side and it seemed to be burning oil and getting the crankcase vent smell inside the cabin everytime I would decelerate. My first instinct was either PCV valve, valve seals, or piston rings. So I went with the cheapest I could tackle first and got down to PickAPart and got an older valve cover with the serviceable PCV and bought a real legit PCV valve from local auto store. Consumption is down dramatically now but I think I still need to replace valve seals to get the remaining albeit small amount of consumption fixed on this 150k+ LM7
Many different paths. Starts with what is the issue. If it is clogged and you are wanting to be thrifty. You can pull the "orifice tube/nipple" and clean out every out. Or just replace the old valve cover. I did all this because, I am running a catch can, and no vacuum.
@@RocketGarageService Where is it drawing the air into, maybe it has a ported vacuum source at the throttle body? I see the idea of a metered leak but it seems extreme if it's full vacuum...
That’s exactly what I been wondering 🤯🤷♂️ just bought a pcv and it’s pretty much pointless to replace 🤦♂️ I think the better fix is too get a catch can
@@leenjadetv6220 From some recent reading, they call this "new style pcv" a Orifice PCV system. I ran into it on the Holley Terminator forum. The Orifice style can cause tuning woes for certain applications.
So my 03 Silverado had a pcv valve with a check ball in it when I replaced it auto zone gave me one without a check ball I thought it was odd but then I also considered it may be a redesigned part so I’ve been running it and idk if it’s a good or bad thing but if anyone can tell me I’d appreciate it. Run Pcv with or without check valve in it?
In the Holden Commodores in Australia which were fitted with the 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine from the Camaro they do run a proper PCV valve. In my VY Commodore 2 of the valve rocker covers are teed together by a vacuum hose which is connected to a hose which joins onto a PCV valve which is connected to the inlet manifold via a vacuum hose. A lot of it used to be plastic lines but the rubber Y piece got deteriorated then fell apart so I made my own up. There's also a breather hose which connects between the throttle body & the right hand valve rocker cover !
thank you I though the cover failed and did the same so i ask where is the egr valve he said that the 2003 and 2004 don't have EGR sum sort of cat thing . codes 327-332 !!!???
Not such a great design, there is a bunch of oil inside the air inlet duct on my 2019 . Which can only mean the pcv is not doing it's job . I'll try to squirt some carb cleaner in there and see if it helps. Maybe some brillo in the breather tube to keep it from building a puddle of oil in the air box
Yeah, this journey has been interesting. IDK what you have going on. I had to switch from a non-pcv catch-can system to a pcv catch-can system. Due to back-pressure building up in the crank-case. My front and rear seal started leaking. Now no more leaking.
Gm calls it a 2.5mm integrated pcv orfice and yes it's not serviceable,gm investigated oil consumption and they redesigned the baffling system in late 2007 or 8 lookup the SB to get the new part number or simply invest in catch can
@@RocketGarageService The metered orifice is there to allow "dirty" crankcase air to slow down just enough to allow any oil to drop out of suspension and drain back into the cover. Opening the orifice up just allows more of that dirty air to pass through and into the catch can, which does the same thing, it opens up to a bigger area allows the air to decelerate and drop oil/condensation into the can, before it passes on into the intake manifold and gets recirculated. Its not a perfect design as we all have figured out and opening it up does nothing more than makes your catch can work harder to do the job. Most good catch cans have a screen/mesh and a wad of stainless shavings in the top of the can with the screen below to help scrub and drip the oil or moisture into the can to keep it from flowing straight through.
You can say that again. I bought a 2011 Avalanche and it was using oil like crazy. Learned about these ignorant designed valve covers, replaced the driver side with an updated version and now have no oil usage at all. I might have been able to clean my old one but for the 30 bucks I just swapped it out.
The Old pcvs your thinking about had a ball that used to stop backfiring from your inlet into your crankcase .. those carburettor days are gone (old man😄)
You don't know what you're talking about. Firstly, they didn't have a ball, they had a weighted cylinder, and the real purpose of it was for the oil to condense onto and run back into the valve cover, thus the sump, rather than being drawn into the intake all willy-nilly-like along with the vapor. Additionally, it allowed a stable PCV flow by letting the vapors through only when the pressure reached a calibrated threshold (those cylinders were a calibrated weight by design, specific to each different engine) as well as acting as a one way check valve so the vapors didn't just flow back and forth in there because the flow wants to reverse in between the positive pressure pulses. A proper PCV system is on-off-on-off and so on because the pressure from the pistons moving down is pulsed, not constant. Furthermore, most engines today still use an actual valve for those same reasons and because its a superior design. Going away from a proper valved system was a step backward on GM's part due to cost saving measures. The PCV valve had litterally nothing to do with backfiring whatsoever, ever, lmfao. As backfiring is not, and never has been, a concern of OEMs becaused a properly tuned and mechanically sound engine will never, under any circumstances experience one, so thats moot, and its virtually impossible to happen on a fuel injected engine which every single engine produced since the mid 80's is; and, like I already said, most engines manufactured today still use a weighted PCV valve, so obviously they had nothing to do with carburetors dummy. Just to be clear... so you don't get more confused.... backfiring is not the popping you hear from some vehicles on decel, they're two totally different things. An actual backfire is as loud as a gunshot and can blow your intake and/or TB/carb clean apart, a PCV valve is not going to address that, clearly. It is unlikely that youve ever even heard of or been around an actual engine backfire in your entire life, thats how rare that is. Maybe you should actually know what you're talking about before running your jibs pup.
Let’s all thank GM for the dumbest stupidest engineering fuck up they could’ve thought of. Got mine off ,drilling extra holes in the baffling because every time I stop at a light, I leave a puff of blue.
Lol, couldn’t agree more-definitely not GM’s finest moment! Drilling extra holes in the baffling seems to be the way to go. That blue puff after every stop is super frustrating. Glad you found a fix!
@ thanks brother and thanks for your guidance on this as well. I completed the repair as simple as it is and the blue smoke is gone. Oil consumption back to normal.
Some engines have a breather on one side and a regular ball and spring PCV on the other bank. If you have unregulated vacuum applied to the crankcase without the breather, expect seals to be put under the strain of negative pressure, and under the extra positive pressure strain of an occasional backfire. The big issue with PCV's is the way an open failure draws more than expected oil into the intake during high vacuum seen with idling, causing oil consumption, fouling, and gunk coating intake valves especially with a GDI engine. My 2000 LM7 LS variant has a proper PCV and I don't fiddle with it, except to be sure it is still working.
Great information!!! Thank-you for commenting.
Can say 100% legit because when it fails, it causes major oil consumption issues. If you can’t replace the valve covers, remove them and spray penetrating blaster in the breathe channel and brake fluid to clean out. Air hose it out and change the PVC. Clean your throttle body with throttle body cleaner and reassemble. It’ll smoke the deposits after but should be good after a 15 mile drive.
Man, you get it!!!! Maintenance guys gets the important of this knowledge. It literally changed what I thought I was dealing with.
I ran into a few videos that deal with the oil consumption problem in these chevy engines suggested drilling several holes in the inside valve cover.
Interesting, I wonder if they are drilling it out. And they are putting a traditional PCV in it
@@RocketGarageService . No. They said Leave the permanent PCV.
They suggest about 9 holes in baffle. One hole in PCV. I think was 1/4.
You are correct what happens is the oil is pooling because the drain holes in the baffling get plugged and then the oil gets pulled into the Plenum
A good upgrade for any Ls 06 or older is the 07+ Ls driver side valve cover and it is an easy direct swap with no other mods needed.
I ended up putting in a valley pan style PVC. I believe they used them on LS3s
Definitely helped me glad you put this video up cause I got to replace my valve cover gaskets on the 05 Silverado and it has the same style of valve and wasn’t sure if I needed to replace it but now I know for sure just the gaskets👍🏽
Glad to hear it. Thank-you for commenting!
If I can add one more comment through experience, you may notice oil pressure issues upon start up when the oil pressure will go to almost 0 and then as the engine warms up returns to normal. You may even drop a lifter at highway speeds. Most of these engines, 4.8, 5.3, 6.0. will start cavitating air into the oil galleries because the O-ring at the top of the pick up tube has deteriorated after approximately 175,000 miles. They all seem to do it and it’s a simple fix. Remove the oil pan and replace the O-ring, but best to have an experienced shop do it because the oil pan gasket can be a bear to reseal properly. Also replace the O-rings on the oil cooler block on the side of the engine. Good motoring!
Thanks for sharing your experience! That’s a great tip about the pickup tube O-ring-I’ve heard of that causing issues, and it’s good to know it’s common around 175,000 miles. I’ll definitely keep that in mind, along with replacing the oil cooler block O-rings. Thanks again, and happy motoring to you too!
Does the 02 trans am or camaro valve cover fit a 5.3 Silverado 1500 engine I like the valve cover with the rubber for Pcv valve
Yes, in most cases it will work fine. When some aftermarket parts are used, certain valve cover could interfere.
What’s happening is that the single drain hole at the back inside valve cover baffling is plugged, causing the oil to pool and then get pulled up by the PCV orifice and into the Plenum. Every time I stop at a traffic light, I drive away and leave a big puff of blue smoke. Took the valve cover off, drilled extra holes in the baffling and enlarged the single factory hole in the baffling so the oil drains into the engine again. Don’t enlarge the PCV fitting hole, you could be asking for problems.
Thanks for the detailed explanation! That makes a lot of sense, especially with the blue smoke after stops. Drilling extra holes and enlarging the factory drain hole in the baffling sounds like a smart fix. I’ll definitely avoid touching the PCV fitting hole to steer clear of potential issues. Appreciate the tip-it’s always great to learn from others' experiences!
@@RocketGarageService these engines are indestructible and I’m thankful for them. I drive delivery on my 2005 Chevy express cube van with a 4.8. I’m on the second engine now and have the third in line ready to go with the updates. The truck has over 600,000 miles now.
2007-2011 LS engines have an upgraded valve cover starting from 11 Feb 2011 with new PCV system
Yeah. I have valley style PVC on the car that I am using now.
I just realized that my early 2009 production LS3 in my 2010 Camaro SS, has been super horrible blowby. I noticed it at first through the throttle body, so that was bad enough.
Then, I installed an oil catch can and my horrors came true. I don’t have AFM/DOD, so I also don’t have a PCV. Chevy uses a flexible u-shaped connection to share a port from the engine valley cover, to the intake manifold. The driver side valve cover is capped off from the factory for this reason.
Anyways, I noticed my oil catch can filling up literally every 4-5 days, driving more than 200-250 miles (not including hard driving, etc). My engine/car only has barely 35k miles, and I figured the piston rings weren’t bad (never got it compression checked), the spark plugs seemed okay, and the valley cover gasket couldn’t possibly be messed up.
I’m gonna see if I can install an in-line PCV valve (3/8”) either through the inlet of my catch can, which goes to the intake manifold. I believe that this will remedy all the oil blow-by, as a result of the engine design
@@isnowyaznwhere did you have the catch can running from & to? Did you go through the rear drivers side around to int manifold? Or the cold air intake
You say 2007 to 2011 have the upgraded valves? But then say starting from 2011? So 2007 to 2010 dont?
U can hav 2 kinds a breather for both valve covers or for the crankcase intake cc
Making the holes in the pcv restrictors is a mistake. By doing so, you've allowed even more oil vapor into your crank case vent system. You've also interrupted the intake air flow. A catch can will only catch the oil - BUT - the air flow interruption caused by these enlarged holes is probably making your engine idle rough, incomplete fuel burn, and/or/possible detonation. The best way to reduce oil into the intake - is to leave the holes alone, install a catch can, and route fresh air into a valve cover - and dirty air from the valley port (or other valve cover) to a catch can, then into the intake.
This was part of my own research and knowledge. I wanted to run a PCV system to a catch can that was vented to the air. No connection to the intake at all. In the end, I switched up catch can setups. And connected my PCV system to the later version PCV through the valley tray > into a catch can > then the intake.
It started as a real replaceable pcv valve in 99-02 trucks (Camaro and corvette starting in 97) then gm made a fixed orifice update for the valve with no valve in it. Then in 06/early 07 they changed the driver side valve cover to a non replaceable fixed orifice valve cover with improved internal pcv routing for reduced oil consumption.
They updated the design to fix some of the oil burning issues. New design in baffles and smaller orifice.
I thought this was the updated design, with the fixed orifice
Thanks for posting. Hard to find a good answer for PCV upgrades. 1999-2006 chevy 5.3L
I ran a catch can from driver (updated) valve cover to intake manifold. Blocked the throttle body port and put a breather on passenger cover. Better mileage and performance.
Did widening this hole in the driver cover improve anything for you?
At first, I ran my catch can just as a vent. Not connecting the valve cover to the engine. Yes that made a big difference opening to oriface. Since then, I have went back to traditional catch can ans connected the valve cover to the engine.
I went from having a good bit of condensation (E85 life) to now, a little bit of oil. I am running some kind of PVC valve now. But I cannot remember how I reconfigured it.
I just realized that my early 2009 production LS3 in my 2010 Camaro SS, has been super horrible blowby. I noticed it at first through the throttle body, so that was bad enough.
Then, I installed an oil catch can and my horrors came true. I don’t have AFM/DOD, so I also don’t have a PCV. Chevy uses a flexible u-shaped connection to share a port from the engine valley cover, to the intake manifold. The driver side valve cover is capped off from the factory for this reason.
Anyways, I noticed my oil catch can filling up literally every 4-5 days, driving more than 200-250 miles (not including hard driving, etc). My engine/car only has barely 35k miles, and I figured the piston rings weren’t bad (never got it compression checked), the spark plugs seemed okay, and the valley cover gasket couldn’t possibly be messed up.
I’m gonna see if I can install an in-line PCV valve (3/8”) either through the inlet of my catch can, which goes to the intake manifold. I believe that this will remedy all the oil blow-by, as a result of the engine design
Maybe it's not as bad as it seems. I haven't done the catch can thing but the blow-by can get loaded with water vapor and drippin like a tailpipe.
@@jamesd6247 what do you mean by water vapor? And wouldn’t that be mixed into what’s caught in the oil catch can.?
@@isnowyazn yes, that is exactly what I was thinking. I suspect the oil in the catch can would seem thin and be mostly condensation.
@@jamesd6247 Nope, seems exactly like what would come directly from my engine. Seeing as how it collects excessively (half to 3/4 can full) within 5-7 days’ worth of driving around ~200-275 miles, I find that to be a ton. It would probably get sucked back up into the intake manifold if I didn’t empty out the can after 8-9, maybe 10 days tops.
The only thing so far that I haven’t done, is an actual compression test. My car/engine has 35k all original miles right now, and it’s bone stock, minus some bolt-on mods and a custom tune. I assumed the engine valley cover was fine, and some people assumed that I might have stuck piston rings.
I’ve ran top engine/intake system and valve cleaner through the intake hose, to the throttle body, as well as running Seafoam and other engine cleaning formulas (made to go into the fuel tank AND engine crank case).
I ended up running an additional in-line PCV valve through the inlet section of my oil catch can routing. I am seeing less blow-by as of the past 5-6 days, but I might leave it for another 6-7 days to check for sure. Someone told me to take out the spark plugs, and soak the pistons from the top down, with Berryman’s B12 or B50 Chemtool formula. I don’t think I can do that method though….
@@isnowyazn I just watched some pros say you can never have too much venting. They were doing most of their own plumbing and didn't talk much about sucking or blowing oil.
I did have the impression that is where you may have been going having mentioned design. Was hoping it was something simple.
I ran into something similar when doing the LS swap on my K5 a few years ago and it had the built-in PCV "orifice" on the driver side and it seemed to be burning oil and getting the crankcase vent smell inside the cabin everytime I would decelerate. My first instinct was either PCV valve, valve seals, or piston rings. So I went with the cheapest I could tackle first and got down to PickAPart and got an older valve cover with the serviceable PCV and bought a real legit PCV valve from local auto store. Consumption is down dramatically now but I think I still need to replace valve seals to get the remaining albeit small amount of consumption fixed on this 150k+ LM7
Good insight, I appreciate the comment.
So is it a good idea to hammer out old valve or replace entire valve cover? (5.3 vortec)
Many different paths. Starts with what is the issue. If it is clogged and you are wanting to be thrifty. You can pull the "orifice tube/nipple" and clean out every out. Or just replace the old valve cover. I did all this because, I am running a catch can, and no vacuum.
My 03 1500 Express V-6 has the same. Did you see any difference when you bored it out ?
So, I am running a catch can that doesn’t connect to the engine. But yes, a huge difference in venting
Let us know how it goes on that express van . I have a 08 Silverado with the 4.3 v6. Consuming oil out the ass.
The valve is inline in the hose system on the later stuff...
My 02 LS1 trans am had a PCV valve. My 06 Sierra does not.
@@RocketGarageService Where is it drawing the air into, maybe it has a ported vacuum source at the throttle body? I see the idea of a metered leak but it seems extreme if it's full vacuum...
That’s exactly what I been wondering 🤯🤷♂️ just bought a pcv and it’s pretty much pointless to replace 🤦♂️ I think the better fix is too get a catch can
@@leenjadetv6220 From some recent reading, they call this "new style pcv" a Orifice PCV system. I ran into it on the Holley Terminator forum. The Orifice style can cause tuning woes for certain applications.
Good stuff Brotha. Subbed up
Thanks for the sub!
2008 chevy express van 4.8l v8... pcv valve?
Man, I’m not sure about that. I don’t think so, but I can’t say for certain.
So my 03 Silverado had a pcv valve with a check ball in it when I replaced it auto zone gave me one without a check ball I thought it was odd but then I also considered it may be a redesigned part so I’ve been running it and idk if it’s a good or bad thing but if anyone can tell me I’d appreciate it. Run Pcv with or without check valve in it?
I believe either way is fine. I would stress it. Biggest thing is changing/cleaning it as routine maintenance. So, it doesn't clog.
In the Holden Commodores in Australia which were fitted with the 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine from the Camaro they do run a proper PCV valve.
In my VY Commodore 2 of the valve rocker covers are teed together by a vacuum hose which is connected to a hose which joins onto a PCV valve which is connected to the inlet manifold via a vacuum hose.
A lot of it used to be plastic lines but the rubber Y piece got deteriorated then fell apart so I made my own up.
There's also a breather hose which connects between the throttle body & the right hand valve rocker cover !
My 02 Trans Am had a y setup too. Thank-you for the comment!!!!
thank you I though the cover failed and did the same so i ask where is the egr valve he said that the 2003 and 2004 don't have EGR sum sort of cat thing . codes 327-332 !!!???
Going through this right now, had 2 quarts of oil in my air box collector
Thank you for your video, it helps me a lot
You’re welcome! I’m glad it helped you! Thank-you for the comment
Not such a great design, there is a bunch of oil inside the air inlet duct on my 2019 . Which can only mean the pcv is not doing it's job . I'll try to squirt some carb cleaner in there and see if it helps. Maybe some brillo in the breather tube to keep it from building a puddle of oil in the air box
Yeah, this journey has been interesting. IDK what you have going on. I had to switch from a non-pcv catch-can system to a pcv catch-can system. Due to back-pressure building up in the crank-case. My front and rear seal started leaking. Now no more leaking.
Well damn never known this my 06 i have vented to atmosphere but im boosted never knew there was a tiny hole guese ill drill it bigger .
Glad I could provide some new info! Thank-you for the comment
Gm calls it a 2.5mm integrated pcv orfice and yes it's not serviceable,gm investigated oil consumption and they redesigned the baffling system in late 2007 or 8 lookup the SB to get the new part number or simply invest in catch can
The car does have a catch can. I opened the orifice to the inner diameter. Catch can "catches" a-lot my fluid now.
@@RocketGarageService The metered orifice is there to allow "dirty" crankcase air to slow down just enough to allow any oil to drop out of suspension and drain back into the cover. Opening the orifice up just allows more of that dirty air to pass through and into the catch can, which does the same thing, it opens up to a bigger area allows the air to decelerate and drop oil/condensation into the can, before it passes on into the intake manifold and gets recirculated. Its not a perfect design as we all have figured out and opening it up does nothing more than makes your catch can work harder to do the job. Most good catch cans have a screen/mesh and a wad of stainless shavings in the top of the can with the screen below to help scrub and drip the oil or moisture into the can to keep it from flowing straight through.
ok tks
👍
Looks like GM did not do any high mileage testing to speak of with this design. Hey, lets invent a valve cover - pcv valve combo, NOT !!!
That is true. Probably related to all of them having rear main seal leak too.
You can say that again. I bought a 2011 Avalanche and it was using oil like crazy. Learned about these ignorant designed valve covers, replaced the driver side with an updated version and now have no oil usage at all. I might have been able to clean my old one but for the 30 bucks I just swapped it out.
The Old pcvs your thinking about had a ball that used to stop backfiring from your inlet into your crankcase .. those carburettor days are gone (old man😄)
Understood. Being why I made the video. Just sharing what I found. I learned a lot.
You don't know what you're talking about. Firstly, they didn't have a ball, they had a weighted cylinder, and the real purpose of it was for the oil to condense onto and run back into the valve cover, thus the sump, rather than being drawn into the intake all willy-nilly-like along with the vapor. Additionally, it allowed a stable PCV flow by letting the vapors through only when the pressure reached a calibrated threshold (those cylinders were a calibrated weight by design, specific to each different engine) as well as acting as a one way check valve so the vapors didn't just flow back and forth in there because the flow wants to reverse in between the positive pressure pulses. A proper PCV system is on-off-on-off and so on because the pressure from the pistons moving down is pulsed, not constant. Furthermore, most engines today still use an actual valve for those same reasons and because its a superior design. Going away from a proper valved system was a step backward on GM's part due to cost saving measures. The PCV valve had litterally nothing to do with backfiring whatsoever, ever, lmfao. As backfiring is not, and never has been, a concern of OEMs becaused a properly tuned and mechanically sound engine will never, under any circumstances experience one, so thats moot, and its virtually impossible to happen on a fuel injected engine which every single engine produced since the mid 80's is; and, like I already said, most engines manufactured today still use a weighted PCV valve, so obviously they had nothing to do with carburetors dummy. Just to be clear... so you don't get more confused.... backfiring is not the popping you hear from some vehicles on decel, they're two totally different things. An actual backfire is as loud as a gunshot and can blow your intake and/or TB/carb clean apart, a PCV valve is not going to address that, clearly. It is unlikely that youve ever even heard of or been around an actual engine backfire in your entire life, thats how rare that is. Maybe you should actually know what you're talking about before running your jibs pup.
Thanks for the lesson 👍
As a 59yo mechanic, I thought I knew everything .. You should be a teacher ..
Let’s all thank GM for the dumbest stupidest engineering fuck up they could’ve thought of. Got mine off ,drilling extra holes in the baffling because every time I stop at a light, I leave a puff of blue.
Lol, couldn’t agree more-definitely not GM’s finest moment! Drilling extra holes in the baffling seems to be the way to go. That blue puff after every stop is super frustrating. Glad you found a fix!
@ thanks brother and thanks for your guidance on this as well. I completed the repair as simple as it is and the blue smoke is gone. Oil consumption back to normal.
I found the solution 😁 for this problem
Glad you figured it out
Dude who made this video I'm sorry but ur Not a GM Engineer which are the bests. Gd Luck with ur assumptions and Pointless investigations... 😂
@@EdwardArencibia-hh2hj Thank-you for the comment!
I have a Tahoe 2000 5.3 I decoded this problem my Tahoe runs like fast tank like a rhino 🦏 0$ just let me show you 😂you thank me
I wanna know