Really cool, thanks for sharing! Have you thought about printing the teeth in SLA/DLP (Resin printer like the cheap Anycubic Photon) and directly mold them into the gum (silicone)? This way there is no more manual work required afterwards
My guy, with super sculpey you can harden or soften the material respectively by 'leeching' the oils out with the clay sandwiched in paper which soaks the oil, or adding small amounts of mineral oil like baby oil to condition the clay softer. I imagine the same is true for Fimo, but by combining the 2 you may have found a good workaround. Your work is very impressive, great job!
You can soften Fimo with the addition of a little baby oil or other mineral oil. Experiment. i can't say how well it will effect the hardness. For jewellery I often 3D print a mould and press fimo into it. Never tried to make teeth though!
Not sure if that is your issue with acetone smoothing, but it helped me. Try printing with 100% infill. Otherwise some weird stuff is going on under the surface.
Annealing/Tempering the plastic. (i think he just put in the tongue as well to cure with the base and act as weight?) You can harden it in a decent oven np but unless you have a dedicated oven you'd rather not heat up plastic in the same oven you use for food lol (and you could harden small/thin pieces of sculpey/fimo in boiling water but usually those require a curing temperature of around +130°C but water stays around 100°C so your clay cure wouldn't be ideal for bigger/thicker pieces but thats probably not a big issue with the bits he had)
Dude! I'm really impressed how you combine different techniques and materials for your animatronics. Please keep going!
Really cool, thanks for sharing!
Have you thought about printing the teeth in SLA/DLP (Resin printer like the cheap Anycubic Photon) and directly mold them into the gum (silicone)? This way there is no more manual work required afterwards
yeah you're right about the ABS Smoothing, you really need to wait a full day or two for all the acetone to evaporate from inside the plastic itself
Imma come back to this channel in 10 years when the sex robot is done man.
I'll be customer number 1.
Ayo
My guy, with super sculpey you can harden or soften the material respectively by 'leeching' the oils out with the clay sandwiched in paper which soaks the oil, or adding small amounts of mineral oil like baby oil to condition the clay softer. I imagine the same is true for Fimo, but by combining the 2 you may have found a good workaround. Your work is very impressive, great job!
You can soften Fimo with the addition of a little baby oil or other mineral oil. Experiment. i can't say how well it will effect the hardness.
For jewellery I often 3D print a mould and press fimo into it. Never tried to make teeth though!
Are you planning to make a full head video, with things like the skin lips mouth eyes cheeks etc
Not sure if that is your issue with acetone smoothing, but it helped me. Try printing with 100% infill. Otherwise some weird stuff is going on under the surface.
I like your work with skulpty. I think I would have used plat silicone so that it has realistic jiggle whe it moves.
Will , I Thank You ! Excellent work!
Thanks Gary, I forgot to post a link to your video. Here is the link if anyone missed it: th-cam.com/video/LjvjYadZveE/w-d-xo.html
nice to see support from Twobob. I watched your sculpt video. epic effort. nice job on this
Why did you put the parts in the boiling water? To remove support?
I think it's was to harden the clay, putting it in the oven would completely melt the print. Not sure though
Annealing/Tempering the plastic. (i think he just put in the tongue as well to cure with the base and act as weight?)
You can harden it in a decent oven np but unless you have a dedicated oven you'd rather not heat up plastic in the same oven you use for food lol
(and you could harden small/thin pieces of sculpey/fimo in boiling water but usually those require a curing temperature of around +130°C but water stays around 100°C so your clay cure wouldn't be ideal for bigger/thicker pieces but thats probably not a big issue with the bits he had)
Try cosclay for parts that need to be rubbery.
Not bad!
Its predator, right?
Sir please make a bionic artificial spine supporter that help in weight lifting
Strap a 2x4 to your back at the hip/under you shoulders.
bite of 87
Doubt this'll be seen or even answered, but what 3d printer do you use/recommend
yes
Y DOE?
Aye first viewer but I commented late so nobody will believe me
lol
I don't believe you because I'm certain someone will believe you!
Mattias Fagerlund some how you just blew my mind
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