WARNING: It is NOT recommended to run fuel into your cabin, like I did in this video. Before proceeding, please watch the last video of the series where I convert my Analog fuel pressure gauge to a digital stepper motor, AND Upgrade the Oil Pressure Line to AN here; th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PY1vRKW34-VPR_VD
Great detailed video. Glad you figured a better way to plumb it- the first concept looked way complicated with adapters and such. But I might be still concerned with running a high pressure fuel line inside the cab. I would consider an electrical pressure sender and gauge for safety. A fire extinguisher might help, but consider getting burned yourself. All when there’s another, safer solution.. You can use mechanical inside the engine bay for backup which is considered safer. Stay safe!
Nice. Great install video Mike. With the amount of time, labor, $$$, you have invested, upgrading gauges to monitor the vitals accurately is a wise decision... besides, they just look cool.
Not sure what you mean by the "old pressure gauge"? Regardless, I upgraded to a Digital Fuel Pressure, and transferred to -03 braided line to the oil pressure gauge. Check it out here: th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.html Thanks!
@josefalero1087 that’s false. You’re talking about a fuel pressure isolator. That’s a separate kit that autometer sells. This is running fuel into the car This is a huge fire hazard and should be avoided When people install a fuel pressure gauge without an isolator they mount it to the hood in the driver’s view I repeat Never run a fuel gauge into the interior of the car
Did you run fuel into the cab ? or did you use a isolator? NHRA would not allow you to run your car without a isolator. Fuel running into your car is very dangerous.
I know this is and older video, but running a fuel line inside the passenger compartment is a HUGE NO NO. Autometer sells an isolator to deal with this, you plumb the fuel line to the isolator (In the engine compartment), and a separate line from the isolator to the gauge.
Just an idea I had for you , on the face plate of your gauge's take a measurement along the bottom and both side's. Then make a piece of sheet metal the same contour and just deep enough to hide the back of the gauge's and paint and attach with 2 or 3 sheet metal screws. It would only be cosmetic. What do you think.?
Yeah, you can add a fitting virtually anywhere... my issue with the "U" side is it would push the fitting forward too much, and hit my air cleaner. Good question! That said, the ultimate fuel pressure gauge is digital... here; th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.html Thanks!
an opinion on the oil pressure gauge line I have used cooprer and plastic I have had the cooper lines crack and leak I have never had a plastic line fail and have used many
I know this is an old video and a few of the comments have addressed this But This is running high pressure fuel into the car This is a huge fire hazard and should be avoided When people install a fuel pressure gauge without an isolator they mount it to the hood in the driver’s view I repeat Never run a fuel gauge into the interior of the car
Agreed! I later switched it out for their Stepper Motor Solid State gauge, and transferred the AN line to the oil gauge, instead of that flimsy plastic tube. Here's the video, if you'd like to see it. th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QO0oyCstn3BzggXQ Thanks for the comment!
Rather than a round file use a d' buring tool. Again, but. Never run ,especially high pressure fuel into the cabin of a car, it is much more flammable than the engine compartment and your rite there getting spread with gasoline!!! For about $100 you can get a fuel air under hood isolator made for this exact situation, It has a pressure diaphram that takes the fuel pressure and translates it into air pressure, if it leaks it's in the engine compartment!!!!!!
@@countrieboyz2009 Yes, they are strictly mechanical, both the diaphragm separating fuel to air, in the engine compartment, and the gauge under the dash. That was and still is the most common, but you can find nowadays pressure sensor over electric, in the engine compartment, those won't show pressure in the dash when turned off.
The engine compartment one is designed to leak only into the engine compartment, if diaphragm fails, and cannot send any real amount of fuel into the passenger compartment , much less under any pressure
Please don’t use a blue crimp connector. They are not safe or reliable. Use a poli-lock connector. They come in butt connector style or a T-tap connector. Best of all, you can remove them if you ever want to make a solder connection. Check them out online. I buy them by the box.
Thanks Mike! I've used Poli Taps before,... not knowing what they were called, lol. Great tip. Looks like McMaster Carr sells them too, so that's good to know. Thanks again!
i'm stopping watching for now, I run into the same thing with people building computers or houses or shops, of which i'm doing all of them now, just so much time to try to help. And I'm not really an expert anymore in any of the areas, I just used to be a jack of all trades and a master of some!!!
GOD help me, have you passed your EIT or FE exam? Much less have your PE , IF anybody dies from your u-tube recommendations, you can be sued into oblivion!!! I'm very sorry to say, but many of the design projects I supervised ect. had to do with death and how to fix it so it didn't happen again, an yes I was certified for both the FE and EIT and had a sponsor for my PE!!!
WARNING: It is NOT recommended to run fuel into your cabin, like I did in this video. Before proceeding, please watch the last video of the series where I convert my Analog fuel pressure gauge to a digital stepper motor, AND Upgrade the Oil Pressure Line to AN here; th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PY1vRKW34-VPR_VD
Good call on changing the oil gauge cap tube Mike, I've seen those things break and make one heck of a mess.
Thanks... better safe than sorry.
Great detailed video.
Glad you figured a better way to plumb it- the first concept looked way complicated with adapters and such.
But I might be still concerned with running a high pressure fuel line inside the cab. I would consider an electrical pressure sender and gauge for safety.
A fire extinguisher might help, but consider getting burned yourself. All when there’s another, safer solution..
You can use mechanical inside the engine bay for backup which is considered safer.
Stay safe!
Thanks Eyal... yeah, I'd agree, an electrical sending unit would be much safer. And 3x the price. :) Thanks!
@@FastMonty yeah I know, that’s why I settled on a mechanical gauge in the engine bay.
Some say life is priceless 🤗
@@BlackThorne1987 Ha! Some do say that... :)
Nice. Great install video Mike. With the amount of time, labor, $$$, you have invested, upgrading gauges to monitor the vitals accurately is a wise decision... besides, they just look cool.
Thanks Rickey, and yes, they do look cool.
You can also use a dash -3 tubing for the old pressure gauge, common in race cars.
Not sure what you mean by the "old pressure gauge"? Regardless, I upgraded to a Digital Fuel Pressure, and transferred to -03 braided line to the oil pressure gauge. Check it out here: th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.html Thanks!
@@FastMonty sorry, spell check put (old) .n the sentence.
@@carllollar673 ahhh makes more sense now.. ha, ha..
I have always been told to not run fuel into the cockpit under any circumstances
Agreed... I'll probably switch to electroMechanical at some point. But, I'm an AN fitting/hose addict, and I can't stop! Ha, ha...
There are a diaphragm that fill the with coolant the side for inside the car , so don't have to worried for fuel in cab
@josefalero1087 that’s false.
You’re talking about a fuel pressure isolator. That’s a separate kit that autometer sells.
This is running fuel into the car
This is a huge fire hazard and should be avoided
When people install a fuel pressure gauge without an isolator they mount it to the hood in the driver’s view
I repeat
Never run a fuel gauge into the interior of the car
Great video 👍
Thanks Robert!
As always great tips
Thanks!
Did you run fuel into the cab ? or did you use a isolator? NHRA would not allow you to run your car without a isolator. Fuel running into your car is very dangerous.
You're absolutely right... here's what I ended up doing after this video... th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-ALSCXlW1EIgLR7H Thanks!
Good Stuff Mike
👏
Thanks Brian!
I know this is and older video, but running a fuel line inside the passenger compartment is a HUGE NO NO.
Autometer sells an isolator to deal with this, you plumb the fuel line to the isolator (In the engine compartment), and a separate line from the isolator to the gauge.
Agreed! In a later video I upgraded to a Stepper Motor Guage, then used the AN Fuel line for the oil pressure gauge. Thanks for the comment!
You need to do a video of how beautiful that car look
Ha! I definitely need to do a new one... but, I did do a recent video of mine versus a 68. Check it out... th-cam.com/video/YIBkccFhVds/w-d-xo.html
I use the LPS connection on my 70 Z28 fuse panel for my gauge lamps so when the headlights or parking lights are on then my gauge lights are on.
Good tip. Thanks John!
Your the A.N. KING
That's right! Ha, ha...
Just an idea I had for you , on the face plate of your gauge's take a measurement along the bottom and both side's. Then make a piece of sheet metal the same contour and just deep enough to hide the back of the gauge's and paint and attach with 2 or 3 sheet metal screws. It would only be cosmetic.
What do you think.?
@@johnkennedy8452 That could work, to hide the side view... But, it doesn't bother me yet. ha, ha... Thanks!
Mike where do you get your AN hoses, AN fittings, and MPT junctions? Let me know, thanks.
I get everything from Summit Racing. I typically order too many fittings, and return what I didn't need. Hope that helps!
You got a AN tool for every day of the week lmao
All except for Friday... that's a bottle opener. ha!
@@FastMonty I’ll drink to that 🍻
@@CompressionFreak Yes sir! By the way, I changed this gauge out for a "safer" version... th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.html
Couldn’t make it work by the U right by the carb so there wouldn’t be any need to cut hoses just needed to add a fitting in?
Yeah, you can add a fitting virtually anywhere... my issue with the "U" side is it would push the fitting forward too much, and hit my air cleaner. Good question! That said, the ultimate fuel pressure gauge is digital... here; th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.html Thanks!
an opinion on the oil pressure gauge line I have used cooprer and plastic I have had the cooper lines crack and leak I have never had a plastic line fail and have used many
Good to know... thanks Jarod!
Thank You !!!
No, thank you Greg!
Mike,
Did you change your headlights?
You mean to Halo's? Like 10 years ago... why?
@@FastMonty I saw your car on one of the cruise videos and your lights looked new. Do you have halos?
@@ryandoe9278 Ahhh, yep, I have Halo's but, they're not new. lol
@@FastMonty dapper??
@@ryandoe9278 Dapper? Is that a company name? ha, ha...
I know this is an old video and a few of the comments have addressed this
But This is running high pressure fuel into the car
This is a huge fire hazard and should be avoided
When people install a fuel pressure gauge without an isolator they mount it to the hood in the driver’s view
I repeat
Never run a fuel gauge into the interior of the car
Agreed! I later switched it out for their Stepper Motor Solid State gauge, and transferred the AN line to the oil gauge, instead of that flimsy plastic tube. Here's the video, if you'd like to see it. th-cam.com/video/G8tvOfbVqp8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QO0oyCstn3BzggXQ Thanks for the comment!
Rather than a round file use a d' buring tool. Again, but. Never run ,especially high pressure fuel into the cabin of a car, it is much more flammable than the engine compartment and your rite there getting spread with gasoline!!! For about $100 you can get a fuel air under hood isolator made for this exact situation, It has a pressure diaphram that takes the fuel pressure and translates it into air pressure, if it leaks it's in the engine compartment!!!!!!
Good idea! Thanks Mark!
So glad someone pointed out the absolute danger of introducing fuel into the interior of the car
Does the isolator hold true on the pressure reading with the key off?
@@countrieboyz2009 Yes, they are strictly mechanical, both the diaphragm separating fuel to air, in the engine compartment, and the gauge under the dash. That was and still is the most common, but you can find nowadays pressure sensor over electric, in the engine compartment, those won't show pressure in the dash when turned off.
The engine compartment one is designed to leak only into the engine compartment, if diaphragm fails, and cannot send any real amount of fuel into the passenger compartment , much less under any pressure
3 holes to fill, Haha ha every guy can relate
Ha! Too funny, and true...
@@FastMonty I absolutely refuse to use light bulb condoms, too. I don't care who knows about it.
@@riskytime Ha! Too funny, thanks Brother!
Please don’t use a blue crimp connector. They are not safe or reliable. Use a poli-lock connector. They come in butt connector style or a T-tap connector. Best of all, you can remove them if you ever want to make a solder connection. Check them out online. I buy them by the box.
Thanks Mike! I've used Poli Taps before,... not knowing what they were called, lol. Great tip. Looks like McMaster Carr sells them too, so that's good to know. Thanks again!
Good deal
Agreed! Thanks.
i'm stopping watching for now, I run into the same thing with people building computers or houses or shops, of which i'm doing all of them now, just so much time to try to help. And I'm not really an expert anymore in any of the areas, I just used to be a jack of all trades and a master of some!!!
I know the feeling! Thanks for the comments!
GOD help me, have you passed your EIT or FE exam? Much less have your PE , IF anybody dies from your u-tube recommendations, you can be sued into oblivion!!! I'm very sorry to say, but many of the design projects I supervised ect. had to do with death and how to fix it so it didn't happen again, an yes I was certified for both the FE and EIT and had a sponsor for my PE!!!
I understand... which is why I said this is "Not recommended" :) Just for you, I'm gonna add another warning in the description section. Thanks!
@@FastMonty ya, I just overreacted, over tired too much beer and should have just gone to bed ,lol
@@markjackson6829 Ha! I get it, especially the too much beer part... which I'm about to do. But, might turn into Whiskey. See ya!
@@FastMonty Ya, I can't do the whiskey thing anymore, then I get really out of it, but have one for me, lol
@@markjackson6829 Ha! Will do!