Thank you for the tips on this one connector. However, having tried your clip trick, it kept slipping or falling off for me. After fighting with this connector for awhile, I took the time to study the design. It’s actually a push on connector that needs a little pressure applied, then the yellow lock can be pushed down. I needed to use a pry bar at the 90deg fitting with gentle pressure.
For ANYONE replacing the whole thing. the connector that people always have problems with is down by the alternator. The solution is to loosen the hose clamps above and below the piece that the connector is attached to and simply rotate it out to the front of the engine. then you can get to it without tearing your hands to shreads
I have a 2015 ford egde sel Ecoboost and i havw a problem when i get gas it has a hardtime starting but otherwise runs fine woiod this be the problem any info would be helpful cause ford wants 160 just to code read it
Hi William, I recommend you get a cheap OBD scanner like this one amzn.to/3ZROfPC for $10 and check your now codes. I'm not sure what you'll find but at least you're not paying $160 and you'll know the code. It could be the purge valve staying open causing an issue but it's best to find out the code first. Keep me posted on what you decide to do.
I got the clip set with a couple of rigged zip tie ends that work great, but just can't push it far enough over to the driver's side to get the locking ring over. Every time I lock it into place, it isn't far enough to catch that ring. Grrrrrrrr. I wish I had seen that below comment about the yellow clip top hose, which is the same as the one giving everyone problems. Folks, if you haven't taken yours apart yet and are planning to tackle this yourself, save your hands, knuckles, wrists, energy, curse words, and frustration. Do this instead - Clip the zip ties holding the 3 hoses together. Undo the white pinch connector hose from the top of the intake and underneath, and also the purge valve over on the driver's side under the intake hose. LEAVE the hose with the YELLOW CONNECTOR ALONE. Undo the zip ties on the new standard piece, and use the hoses there, other than the one with the yellow connectors. After you have the other new hoses set into place and purge valve in place, just zip tie them back together like they were from the factory and you're set. I'm 2 days into a 15 minute job, so don't be like me.
I found there are a lot of different styles depending on model, year, and engine, this was my kids car and I was at home with minimal tools. Thought I would share how I got it installed.
I cut the front tabs off with diag cutters, so you can freely click it closed. I tried a loop of bailing wire, and it didn’t stay in. Getting the old one off, I broke the yellow tabs off with a flat head screw driver and I pulled the whole yellow piece out of it.
Video was not helpful but the comment section was. The correct way is to loosen the two clamps so you can move the nipple a bit further to front of vehicle. Cut the 2 tie wraps off and install the hose with yellow clips, bottom clip first. Press hard on the fitting and push up on yellow clamp. Yellow clip is designed to press up once you have enough pressure on it. Don’t wast time monkeying with yellow clip.
I found there are a lot of different styles depending on model, year, and engine, this was my kids car and I was at home with minimal tools. Thought I would share how I got it installed.
All models are different when it comes to the purge valve, I would have risked causing a leak if I just changed the valve because the plastic lines are a one time install. You lucked out, good for you, and that's great info for other people with similar problems. 👍
Yeah, I didn’t realize until I took it off, that is just a straight line, nothing to do with the purge valve part. The thing to do is leave that one alone, cut the zip tie and just replace the canister purge valve line. I’m still having trouble getting the line on, because it is such a tight fit, I can’t get it far enough on to clip it. I’ve been working on it for a couple hours. I wish I had noticed that one doesn’t have to come off. I’m using your wire trick, but still can’t get that connector fully seated. But thanks for the video.
@@Happahowlie I'm having the exact same issue. I got the clip set with a couple of rigged zip tie ends, but just can't push it far enough over to the driver's side to get the locking ring over. Every time I lock it into place, it isn't far enough to catch that ring. Grrrrrrrr
Thanks for this video. Spent the last hour trying to get this on. So gonna try this now
Thank you so much, without this video I would never figure out how to clip it in 🙏
Hey Denis, You're welcome. I'm glad my little trick worked for someone lol. Thanks for the feedback.
$200 at the mechanic. 6 months later my car making noise again 😐
Thank you for the tips on this one connector. However, having tried your clip trick, it kept slipping or falling off for me. After fighting with this connector for awhile, I took the time to study the design. It’s actually a push on connector that needs a little pressure applied, then the yellow lock can be pushed down. I needed to use a pry bar at the 90deg fitting with gentle pressure.
Yes... I just found it difficult to push it on with so little room, the pry bar will work, I just didn't want to break anything in the process lol.
For ANYONE replacing the whole thing. the connector that people always have problems with is down by the alternator. The solution is to loosen the hose clamps above and below the piece that the connector is attached to and simply rotate it out to the front of the engine. then you can get to it without tearing your hands to shreads
Thanks, this was my first one, they get easier after 10 lol.
I changed my valve due to the 1450. Got that gone now i’m getting just the 443. Any Ideas?
I recommend you double check all your connections, especially the purge control valve electrical connection.
Will do. I also “attempted” at reusing the plastic line. Would a vaccum leak on the line cause that 443?
It says not compatible on Amazon but this for sure works for the 2015 ford edge sel 2.0? Fwd
Thanks Mooshycow 👍
😊🎉 wonder how these various tabs work
Hi Lee 🍺
I have a 2015 ford egde sel Ecoboost and i havw a problem when i get gas it has a hardtime starting but otherwise runs fine woiod this be the problem any info would be helpful cause ford wants 160 just to code read it
Hi William, I recommend you get a cheap OBD scanner like this one amzn.to/3ZROfPC for $10 and check your now codes. I'm not sure what you'll find but at least you're not paying $160 and you'll know the code. It could be the purge valve staying open causing an issue but it's best to find out the code first. Keep me posted on what you decide to do.
I got the clip set with a couple of rigged zip tie ends that work great, but just can't push it far enough over to the driver's side to get the locking ring over. Every time I lock it into place, it isn't far enough to catch that ring. Grrrrrrrr. I wish I had seen that below comment about the yellow clip top hose, which is the same as the one giving everyone problems.
Folks, if you haven't taken yours apart yet and are planning to tackle this yourself, save your hands, knuckles, wrists, energy, curse words, and frustration. Do this instead - Clip the zip ties holding the 3 hoses together. Undo the white pinch connector hose from the top of the intake and underneath, and also the purge valve over on the driver's side under the intake hose. LEAVE the hose with the YELLOW CONNECTOR ALONE. Undo the zip ties on the new standard piece, and use the hoses there, other than the one with the yellow connectors. After you have the other new hoses set into place and purge valve in place, just zip tie them back together like they were from the factory and you're set. I'm 2 days into a 15 minute job, so don't be like me.
I found there are a lot of different styles depending on model, year, and engine, this was my kids car and I was at home with minimal tools. Thought I would share how I got it installed.
THANK YOU.
Yes! you're welcome Mikey 🍺
I cut the front tabs off with diag cutters, so you can freely click it closed. I tried a loop of bailing wire, and it didn’t stay in.
Getting the old one off, I broke the yellow tabs off with a flat head screw driver and I pulled the whole yellow piece out of it.
Thanks for the tips Nathaniel 🍺
Did you have to go under the car to remove it
Hi Tony, no, everything was accessible from the top, just a little tight.
@@EddieCarrara1 Just another dumb design, like the battery location, wtf Ford?
Video was not helpful but the comment section was. The correct way is to loosen the two clamps so you can move the nipple a bit further to front of vehicle. Cut the 2 tie wraps off and install the hose with yellow clips, bottom clip first. Press hard on the fitting and push up on yellow clamp. Yellow clip is designed to press up once you have enough pressure on it. Don’t wast time monkeying with yellow clip.
I found there are a lot of different styles depending on model, year, and engine, this was my kids car and I was at home with minimal tools. Thought I would share how I got it installed.
You don’t neeed to replace that hose neither! 😂😂😂 I did mine today DORMAN part, is the same to the oem, but half price 👍
All models are different when it comes to the purge valve, I would have risked causing a leak if I just changed the valve because the plastic lines are a one time install. You lucked out, good for you, and that's great info for other people with similar problems. 👍
What’s that doorman part number for what to replace?
Beers 🍻
Cheers James 🍻
Don’t have to take off the yellow one it’s a pain in the ass to put back on
Where were you when I needed you lol. That whole line is a pain in the ass 😂
Yeah, I didn’t realize until I took it off, that is just a straight line, nothing to do with the purge valve part. The thing to do is leave that one alone, cut the zip tie and just replace the canister purge valve line. I’m still having trouble getting the line on, because it is such a tight fit, I can’t get it far enough on to clip it. I’ve been working on it for a couple hours. I wish I had noticed that one doesn’t have to come off. I’m using your wire trick, but still can’t get that connector fully seated. But thanks for the video.
@@Happahowlie I'm having the exact same issue. I got the clip set with a couple of rigged zip tie ends, but just can't push it far enough over to the driver's side to get the locking ring over. Every time I lock it into place, it isn't far enough to catch that ring. Grrrrrrrr