I’m a ryegrass lover with a huge experience. All you need for better winter hardiness is: 1. Use fall nitrogen blitz. Rye need a lot of nitrogen right before the winter 2. Use fungicides DMI spectrum before snowing. For example, azoxystrobine and propiconazole. It helps prevent snow mold and other pathogens. 3. Mow quite short before the first snow. As short as can your mower. 10 mm? Perfect.
Hey Stanislav. I have seen people use the nitrogen blitz, feels a bit too much, even bought stuff for it but hesitate to use it. Maybe I´ll try it this year and see if that has any effect. I always mow short before winter, but I kept it at around 20 mm, I´ll try shorter next time. No fungicides are available for home owners here in Sweden, all those chemicals are banned for non commercial use. Thanks for the input Stanislav, nice to see there are more people out there who actually like ryegrass like me :)
Just a tip, take a small amount of seeds to pre-germinate ahead of your full overseed amount. This way, you can see and know when to anticipate the sprouts and not having to go far past. If you are able to source granular humic, that's also a great carrier in lieu of milorganite.
Hey mate, that's actually an awesome tip! Definitely going to do that next time I am trying out a new type of seed, really smart! Granular humic was actually something I found here, but it's sooo expensive in Sweden. Sand worked, but it wasn't optimal, I might just try humic next time if it works better. Thanks for the feedback mate, appreciate it 🙏
@@SamsLawnOf course, man, I'm happy to share! I'm also not sure how my comment landed on this video as I commented on the one you posted today 😅 Yes, as sand also doesn't have nutrients the seeds need to develop. I'm sure you will notice the difference on the next overseed with the humic 🤙🏽I'd also find a balanced fertilizer with phosphorus, the seedlings will thrive with that.
Damn Sam your lawn gets roughed up there in Stockholm during winter, mine here in Copenhagen comes back pretty much full every year after winter, damn lot of work, respect man!
Maybe you could try pre-germinating the Kentucky Bluegrass. I've seen a couple of youtubers doing it now. The best way seems, first 24 hours in water. Then after that, put it for 5 mins in new water a day (so drain it after 5 mins and let it dry), do this untill you see germination, then mix it with sand or something dry, and spread/seed it. Water should be not too cold ideally, since temperature is a factor. I'm planning on trying it myself later as well. Could be ideal for KBG as well since it takes so long to germinate. You could also try a small bit first to see how it works and then try it again with the big batch you need. Anyway just an idea!
I did that and yep, is not 20 days to germinate the kbg, but 15 days. With an average temperature of 14-15ºC . Now I think that 5 days does not deserves all the pre- work 😕
@@PataPatadelcid Well 5 days is still quite something. But also if you would do it inside the house, you could be even faster especially in spring over there in Sweden since its sol cold out there. Could really give you a head start I would imagine.
Hey Mate, For sure, I have already prepped the buckets and bought strainers for it :) Never tried it before myself, not this way at least, super exited to see how it works. From what I understand it's not all about faster germination, for sure you will have faster germination but also better germination rate overall from all the seeds.
@Arietje 15 days to germinate, 5 less than if not soaked. I like the kbg, but I am going to put some raygrass in the bare spots. Have too many hungry birds in the garden and can't 20 days , nor wait to the kbg to fill the bare spots, my seed is not so good I thnk. This time, I'll try a different brand . 😊
Tjena, jag gillar den, estetiskt är det väldigt fint. Jag hade den innan jag startade om med min matta. Det jag kände var att den inte tål trafik så bra. Vi spelar mycket fotboll på vår matta och det kändes som att extra green tunnades ut väldigt lätt om det var för mycket trafik på den. Kan absolut bero på annat men det var känslan jag fick.
80-10 sand and some compost or peat moss is a great root zone. Vertical drains here are a strip, put in with a narrow machine trencher. Ban the spikes!!!
Tjena, jag köpte en av Barenbrugsäckarna med 100% RPR, från Xeed i för sig men den finns inte på hemsidan. Har sett att många har problem med den, dock är den bild jag visar, på en matta som ligger 1 km ifrån mig och det är exakt samma gräs 🤷🏻♂️ Den verkar vara extremt beroende av att du har exakt rätt förutsättningar verkar det som. Ger den 1 år till innan jag ger upp 😅
Space your stone blocks 0.5 centimeters and they will drain or do a 6 inch wide 10 inch down trench infront if them and fill it with sand, then reseed. I think a lot of your grass is dead because of snow mold. I get that in michigan every year and I have mix or fescue rye and kbg
Hey Stefan, that was my first thought, but I am dreading it since it´s so much work to dig everything up again, I have so many rocks in the soil so digging is a pain. I have gravel underneath, but apparently it wasn´t enough. That´s what you get for not doing the work properly in the first place 😂 But if none of my measures help, then that is the only option left. It´s definitely snow mold too, which also thrives when the lawn is wet after winter. For the first time I wish fungicides weren´t banned in Sweden ;) Thanks for the input Stefan, appreciate it mate.
@@SamsLawn I lose about 20 % of the grass every winter even with fungicide, try finding a good size brick chisel and make the gap between the stones larger. If you start from the last one that probably move a bit if you have the chisel in the seem and hammer it. All you probably need is a few mm at each seam to let water out.
I think I got an easy fix for you if you can find the tool. You need an flower bulb auger drill bit. It's around 30 bucks here, it's about 2.5 inch round drill bit. If you can find it, drill a bunch of holes infront of the stone edge, go about 6 inches down, probably do a hole every 3 inches, fill with sand and overseed. If you can find the drill bit, see if they have the extention for it so you are not on your knees drilling holes.
@@StefanKolev-oh5hz Thanks Stefan, I might actually try that. I just tried it with a soil drill, but stones in the yard makes it really hard. Smaller drill and smaller holes might actually be easier. I will release a video of me trying to make vertical drains in just a few min. Have a look and tell me your thoughts mate, really appreciate it 🙏🙏
I actually used a gas driven drill, I will show you in the next video. But that revealed other issues too 🤦♂️ Drilling is not easy when the soil underneath has soooo many rocks...
Ooooohhh, the rocks!!! I got so many bruises from the auger when I did mine about 10 years ago because of large stones and rocks. Did improve my drainage though. Can’t wait to see that video.
@@SamsLawn of course use shin guards with high top boots with rocks but punching holes is easier than doing manual aerating with a tine its easier with a cordless hammer drill
I’m a ryegrass lover with a huge experience. All you need for better winter hardiness is:
1. Use fall nitrogen blitz. Rye need a lot of nitrogen right before the winter
2. Use fungicides DMI spectrum before snowing. For example, azoxystrobine and propiconazole. It helps prevent snow mold and other pathogens.
3. Mow quite short before the first snow. As short as can your mower. 10 mm? Perfect.
Hey Stanislav.
I have seen people use the nitrogen blitz, feels a bit too much, even bought stuff for it but hesitate to use it. Maybe I´ll try it this year and see if that has any effect.
I always mow short before winter, but I kept it at around 20 mm, I´ll try shorter next time.
No fungicides are available for home owners here in Sweden, all those chemicals are banned for non commercial use.
Thanks for the input Stanislav, nice to see there are more people out there who actually like ryegrass like me :)
The nice thing with a lawn like that is that it's time for a new big renovation! 🥳
Exactly my thought too! 🥳
5k later @@SamsLawn
8:01 squanaflsugh
Just a tip, take a small amount of seeds to pre-germinate ahead of your full overseed amount. This way, you can see and know when to anticipate the sprouts and not having to go far past. If you are able to source granular humic, that's also a great carrier in lieu of milorganite.
Hey mate, that's actually an awesome tip! Definitely going to do that next time I am trying out a new type of seed, really smart!
Granular humic was actually something I found here, but it's sooo expensive in Sweden. Sand worked, but it wasn't optimal, I might just try humic next time if it works better. Thanks for the feedback mate, appreciate it 🙏
@@SamsLawnOf course, man, I'm happy to share! I'm also not sure how my comment landed on this video as I commented on the one you posted today 😅 Yes, as sand also doesn't have nutrients the seeds need to develop. I'm sure you will notice the difference on the next overseed with the humic 🤙🏽I'd also find a balanced fertilizer with phosphorus, the seedlings will thrive with that.
Hi Sam! Thank you for the video. I am anticipating seeing your next video really interested to see what you are going to do. Have a nice day.
Hi Lucy! I did it this weekend, hopefully it will work out, video will come soon :)
Thanks for dropping by, always appreciate it! 🙏🙏
Äntligen! Orimligt taggad på första sommaren med gräsmatta! 👏🏻
Jag med!
Jag med! Vill bara ut och börja :) snart snart snart!
Damn Sam your lawn gets roughed up there in Stockholm during winter, mine here in Copenhagen comes back pretty much full every year after winter, damn lot of work, respect man!
You lucky duck! I always say to my wife that we need to move further south, maybe Copenhagen then! 😅
Maybe you could try pre-germinating the Kentucky Bluegrass. I've seen a couple of youtubers doing it now. The best way seems, first 24 hours in water. Then after that, put it for 5 mins in new water a day (so drain it after 5 mins and let it dry), do this untill you see germination, then mix it with sand or something dry, and spread/seed it. Water should be not too cold ideally, since temperature is a factor. I'm planning on trying it myself later as well. Could be ideal for KBG as well since it takes so long to germinate. You could also try a small bit first to see how it works and then try it again with the big batch you need. Anyway just an idea!
Superb idea 🤙
I did that and yep, is not 20 days to germinate the kbg, but 15 days. With an average temperature of 14-15ºC . Now I think that 5 days does not deserves all the pre- work 😕
@@PataPatadelcid Well 5 days is still quite something. But also if you would do it inside the house, you could be even faster especially in spring over there in Sweden since its sol cold out there. Could really give you a head start I would imagine.
Hey Mate, For sure, I have already prepped the buckets and bought strainers for it :)
Never tried it before myself, not this way at least, super exited to see how it works. From what I understand it's not all about faster germination, for sure you will have faster germination but also better germination rate overall from all the seeds.
@Arietje 15 days to germinate, 5 less than if not soaked. I like the kbg, but I am going to put some raygrass in the bare spots. Have too many hungry birds in the garden and can't 20 days , nor wait to the kbg to fill the bare spots, my seed is not so good I thnk. This time, I'll try a different brand . 😊
vad tycker du om WEIBULLS EXTRA GREEN ?
Tjena, jag gillar den, estetiskt är det väldigt fint. Jag hade den innan jag startade om med min matta. Det jag kände var att den inte tål trafik så bra. Vi spelar mycket fotboll på vår matta och det kändes som att extra green tunnades ut väldigt lätt om det var för mycket trafik på den. Kan absolut bero på annat men det var känslan jag fick.
80-10 sand and some compost or peat moss is a great root zone.
Vertical drains here are a strip, put in with a narrow machine trencher.
Ban the spikes!!!
Already bought the compost, I love that stuff, so good!! :)
Thanks for dropping by Wayne, always appreciated! 🙏
Är detta xeeds rpr? Många på gräsmattans vänner som skriver om liknande problem..
Tjena, jag köpte en av Barenbrugsäckarna med 100% RPR, från Xeed i för sig men den finns inte på hemsidan. Har sett att många har problem med den, dock är den bild jag visar, på en matta som ligger 1 km ifrån mig och det är exakt samma gräs 🤷🏻♂️
Den verkar vara extremt beroende av att du har exakt rätt förutsättningar verkar det som. Ger den 1 år till innan jag ger upp 😅
Space your stone blocks 0.5 centimeters and they will drain or do a 6 inch wide 10 inch down trench infront if them and fill it with sand, then reseed. I think a lot of your grass is dead because of snow mold. I get that in michigan every year and I have mix or fescue rye and kbg
Hey Stefan, that was my first thought, but I am dreading it since it´s so much work to dig everything up again, I have so many rocks in the soil so digging is a pain. I have gravel underneath, but apparently it wasn´t enough. That´s what you get for not doing the work properly in the first place 😂
But if none of my measures help, then that is the only option left.
It´s definitely snow mold too, which also thrives when the lawn is wet after winter. For the first time I wish fungicides weren´t banned in Sweden ;)
Thanks for the input Stefan, appreciate it mate.
@@SamsLawn I lose about 20 % of the grass every winter even with fungicide, try finding a good size brick chisel and make the gap between the stones larger. If you start from the last one that probably move a bit if you have the chisel in the seem and hammer it. All you probably need is a few mm at each seam to let water out.
@@StefanKolev-oh5hz that's awesome advice Stefan, thanks a lot mate! Might give that a go, sounds easier than digging!
I think I got an easy fix for you if you can find the tool. You need an flower bulb auger drill bit. It's around 30 bucks here, it's about 2.5 inch round drill bit. If you can find it, drill a bunch of holes infront of the stone edge, go about 6 inches down, probably do a hole every 3 inches, fill with sand and overseed. If you can find the drill bit, see if they have the extention for it so you are not on your knees drilling holes.
@@StefanKolev-oh5hz Thanks Stefan, I might actually try that. I just tried it with a soil drill, but stones in the yard makes it really hard. Smaller drill and smaller holes might actually be easier. I will release a video of me trying to make vertical drains in just a few min. Have a look and tell me your thoughts mate, really appreciate it 🙏🙏
Use a drill and a long drill bit in low areas to work as an auger
Easy drainage
I actually used a gas driven drill, I will show you in the next video. But that revealed other issues too 🤦♂️
Drilling is not easy when the soil underneath has soooo many rocks...
Ooooohhh, the rocks!!! I got so many bruises from the auger when I did mine about 10 years ago because of large stones and rocks. Did improve my drainage though. Can’t wait to see that video.
@@SamsLawn of course use shin guards with high top boots with rocks but punching holes is easier than doing manual aerating with a tine
its easier with a cordless hammer drill
Sand will help with drainage
I hope it does mate, something's gotta give :D
Are not spiked shoes mini areators? 😅
haha if only man!! 😂
fusarium
Definitely some pink snow mold in there, too much water on the surface, hopefully I can fix that.