I am wanting to put together a 110 in 25-06AI for targets at distance. Think it would be fun. Probably an onyx chassis (cost issue) and a 26 or 28in barrel.
Pick your brains if you don't mind? I live in Western Oregon, and around here 90% of your shots can be done with a model 94. However, I have a family ranch in Eastern Oregon, I want to set up a DEDICATED long range antelope rifle. 600 to 800 yards. Choices in the safe: 243 (savage 111, and a sako 85) a few 22-250's savage axis, EARLY model 700, and a ruger #1, a Browning A Bolt 270 wsm - I took a BIG MULE BUCK with this one at 450 yards this year cheep 3x9x40 scope. I have a 300 wsm model 70, a 25-06 m77 mark 2 "heavy barrel". Several 30-06, a 6.5 creedmore in a ruger american. 7mm in 700, 300 win mag a-bolt, 300 RUM, and. 375 rum. I am leaning towards the 25-06, but the 270 wsm is confounding this choice! I am a hand loader with GOBS of powder, primers and bullets.. so that's NOT a concern. I also have a FN action 30-06 their mauser 98 action, I want to make a custom rifle oit of it. Originally, I was going 30-06, but... a fast twist 25-06??? Maybe try them all, and see what gets me sub MOA at 800 yards?
For hunting at the distances you are referring too. There are some things to consider. First you need a good ballistics program. I use a free online app www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi there are several you can get at the app store. Start punching in the numbers on the cartridges you might want to use and learn what each will do. Also do not use exposed tipped lead bullets. It is easy to deform the lead tip and it will make a big difference after 300 yards. After the accuracy of the gun things to consider time of flight and wind. How much the bullet is dropping at the target and how much room for error you have for judging distance and your wind call. Take my 25-06 if my range estimation is 750 yards but the target is actually 760 yards according to JBM my bullet will be 2.5 inches lower. At 740yds it is 2.4 inches higher. As far as the wind call goes I always put in a 10mph cross wind. Wind is consistent in that if you double the wind the drift doubles and if you half the wind the drift is half as much. At 750yds JBM says a 10mph wind will move my bullet 26.5 inches. So for every 1mph of wind the bullet will move 2.65 inches. First thing you want to do is educate yourself on the ballistics of each cartridge. From looking at my Hornady manual. The guns you have I would have a go with first is your 270wsm then either 25-06 using the Berger 115gr bullet or 7mag. It sounds like your 270 wsm you have been hunting with. Then the next I would consider is the 300wm or the rum. Then the 30-06 Then 243 or the 6.5 needsmore I would not consider the 22-250 unless it has a fast twist and there is a good 80gr or heaver bullet available At the distances you are talking I would want a gun thats close to 1/2 MOA or better. One thing about building a gun when you order the barrel you can have it threaded and then you can put a brake tuner on it like I did on the gun in this video. Real easy I just set the bullet about 10-15 thou off the lands then worked up the load then started tuning using 3 shot groups. I used this gun in the video where I talk about why case weight matters. Here is the link th-cam.com/video/jC0iWa3Hy5M/w-d-xo.html As far as your cheap scope it all comes down to repeatability. I have a cheap BSA on my every day hiking AR that went through the hell of being broken and on the ground with me. I used that gun in my 1000yd freehand video. I totally took it apart and when I reassembled it point of impact at 100yds was only off by an inch or 2 and it repeats when ever I shoot it at distance. It has tactical turrets on it so it is easy to adjust to what ever distance. The big issue is for you is returning it to zero it has to be easy to reset to zero. Here is how I know a scope is good or not, cheap or one of my Leupolds. Basically take a shot at distence then reset zero then crank it back up shoot another round after each shot repeat. then its a mater of did your groups open up at all and did the point of impact shift? reset zero after each shot. Remember a good hit from a 22-250 beats a miss from the 300rum every time. From what I see of your collection you should have several guns that you should be able to tune a load that will get you to at least 3/4moa. Good luck and have fun in the process. Remember this is just my opinion NDR
Nice shooting....I live in Lyon County Nevada most of the time...I've got some good spots too...I haven't shot much lately, as components are a bear to come by.
No I do not use a spotting scope I prefer to use the optics on the gun. Sounds like we are nabors. I arrived this morning at one of my favorite spots plan a doing some shooting for a few days. If I am lucky I might be able to get a video or 2 made. NDR
What powder and powder charge do you use , and please supply the reamer specs , I want too shoot that same bullet in my 25-06 , waiting for a 1/8" twist Bartlein barrel.
@@willemkooij8435 Like I said in the Video the barrel is from Xcaliber. I ordered it in 25-06 so I did not order anything special. It is on a savage action so the barrel came already reamed out. all I had to do was properly install the barrel then set headspace. What I did with the the headspace. I took my full length sizing die set it up so the shell holder bottoms out on the bottom of the die. So my resized cases are the minimum length my die can size them. Then I adjusted it so it is 1.5-2 thousandths of the shoulder. My go gauge barely fits. As for powder I am using IMR 7828 SSC. I got my loading data from Berger I called them up and they were free and easy with the data. For the record I am nowhere near max charge. Also a couple of the powders they have data for and I could not find they claim higher velocity's with. Mine are going about 2950 which is much slower than they claim. On this build I put my first barrel tuner on and In my opinion it is gods gift to easy load development I just worked the load up found what I feel is max charge and started tuning 3 rounds at a time. If you check out my "Why case weight matters video" I talk about the tuner a bit. If you subscribe I have 3 videos with this gun that will be posted in the next couple of months 1 mile 2080 yards and 2200 yards. I feel I did it right with my 1-8 twist so I believe you should like yours. One thing is for sure with the 135gr in the 25-06 no creedmore can come close. NDR
I was curious about the muzzle break as well. I can understand on something like a .458 socom or something, but not on a 25-06. Am I missing something? Maybe I'm not familiar with the recoil due to the cartridge size.
@@dukeravenshadow5532 It has enough recoil to not be able to reliably self spot without it. It's not about the inches on your dick and who's a tough guy, he's just trying to see what he's hitting in real time. He's only got about 1.5 degrees field of view. It has the added bonus of weakening the blast hitting the ground in front and kicking dust. Or maybe he just likes it. Sounds like maybe your gun knowledge comes from gaming.
How much powder are you using for the 135gr to go 2900? Been looking at building a prs rifle possibly in 25-06 using 143 eldx or 147 eldms but cant find any load data for those bullets. Also how much further are you seating the bullets out?
Those 2 Hornady bullets you mentioned I believe are 6.5mm Bullets. I originally wanted a 6.5-06 but could not find any brass. I am seating the Bullets about 10 or 15 Thou off the lands. As for load data I called Berger up and they sent load data to my Email. NDR
I am wanting to put together a 110 in 25-06AI for targets at distance. Think it would be fun. Probably an onyx chassis (cost issue) and a 26 or 28in barrel.
Pick your brains if you don't mind? I live in Western Oregon, and around here 90% of your shots can be done with a model 94.
However, I have a family ranch in Eastern Oregon, I want to set up a DEDICATED long range antelope rifle. 600 to 800 yards.
Choices in the safe: 243 (savage 111, and a sako 85) a few 22-250's savage axis, EARLY model 700, and a ruger #1, a Browning A Bolt 270 wsm - I took a BIG MULE BUCK with this one at 450 yards this year cheep 3x9x40 scope. I have a 300 wsm model 70, a 25-06 m77 mark 2 "heavy barrel". Several 30-06, a 6.5 creedmore in a ruger american. 7mm in 700, 300 win mag a-bolt, 300 RUM, and. 375 rum.
I am leaning towards the 25-06, but the 270 wsm is confounding this choice! I am a hand loader with GOBS of powder, primers and bullets.. so that's NOT a concern.
I also have a FN action 30-06 their mauser 98 action, I want to make a custom rifle oit of it. Originally, I was going 30-06, but... a fast twist 25-06???
Maybe try them all, and see what gets me sub MOA at 800 yards?
For hunting at the distances you are referring too. There are some things to consider. First you need a good ballistics program. I use a free online app www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi there are several you can get at the app store. Start punching in the numbers on the cartridges you might want to use and learn what each will do.
Also do not use exposed tipped lead bullets. It is easy to deform the lead tip and it will make a big difference after 300 yards.
After the accuracy of the gun things to consider time of flight and wind. How much the bullet is dropping at the target and how much room for error you have for judging distance and your wind call. Take my 25-06 if my range estimation is 750 yards but the target is actually 760 yards according to JBM my bullet will be 2.5 inches lower. At 740yds it is 2.4 inches higher. As far as the wind call goes I always put in a 10mph cross wind. Wind is consistent in that if you double the wind the drift doubles and if you half the wind the drift is half as much. At 750yds JBM says a 10mph wind will move my bullet 26.5 inches. So for every 1mph of wind the bullet will move 2.65 inches.
First thing you want to do is educate yourself on the ballistics of each cartridge. From looking at my Hornady manual. The guns you have I would have a go with first is your 270wsm then either 25-06 using the Berger 115gr bullet or 7mag. It sounds like your 270 wsm you have been hunting with.
Then the next I would consider is the 300wm or the rum.
Then the 30-06
Then 243 or the 6.5 needsmore
I would not consider the 22-250 unless it has a fast twist and there is a good 80gr or heaver bullet available
At the distances you are talking I would want a gun thats close to 1/2 MOA or better. One thing about building a gun when you order the barrel you can have it threaded and then you can put a brake tuner on it like I did on the gun in this video. Real easy I just set the bullet about 10-15 thou off the lands then worked up the load then started tuning using 3 shot groups. I used this gun in the video where I talk about why case weight matters. Here is the link
th-cam.com/video/jC0iWa3Hy5M/w-d-xo.html
As far as your cheap scope it all comes down to repeatability. I have a cheap BSA on my every day hiking AR that went through the hell of being broken and on the ground with me. I used that gun in my 1000yd freehand video. I totally took it apart and when I reassembled it point of impact at 100yds was only off by an inch or 2 and it repeats when ever I shoot it at distance. It has tactical turrets on it so it is easy to adjust to what ever distance. The big issue is for you is returning it to zero it has to be easy to reset to zero.
Here is how I know a scope is good or not, cheap or one of my Leupolds. Basically take a shot at distence then reset zero then crank it back up shoot another round after each shot repeat. then its a mater of did your groups open up at all and did the point of impact shift? reset zero after each shot.
Remember a good hit from a 22-250 beats a miss from the 300rum every time.
From what I see of your collection you should have several guns that you should be able to tune a load that will get you to at least 3/4moa.
Good luck and have fun in the process.
Remember this is just my opinion
NDR
I got the cheap stevens 25-06, it's the absolute smoothest action of all my rifles
Nice shooting....I live in Lyon County Nevada most of the time...I've got some good spots too...I haven't shot much lately, as components are a bear to come by.
You don't use a spotting scope?
No I do not use a spotting scope I prefer to use the optics on the gun. Sounds like we are nabors. I arrived this morning at one of my favorite spots plan a doing some shooting for a few days. If I am lucky I might be able to get a video or 2 made.
NDR
What powder and powder charge do you use , and please supply the reamer specs , I want too shoot that same bullet in my 25-06 , waiting for a 1/8" twist Bartlein barrel.
@@willemkooij8435 Like I said in the Video the barrel is from Xcaliber. I ordered it in 25-06 so I did not order anything special. It is on a savage action so the barrel came already reamed out. all I had to do was properly install the barrel then set headspace. What I did with the the headspace. I took my full length sizing die set it up so the shell holder bottoms out on the bottom of the die. So my resized cases are the minimum length my die can size them. Then I adjusted it so it is 1.5-2 thousandths of the shoulder. My go gauge barely fits. As for powder I am using IMR 7828 SSC. I got my loading data from Berger I called them up and they were free and easy with the data. For the record I am nowhere near max charge. Also a couple of the powders they have data for and I could not find they claim higher velocity's with. Mine are going about 2950 which is much slower than they claim. On this build I put my first barrel tuner on and In my opinion it is gods gift to easy load development I just worked the load up found what I feel is max charge and started tuning 3 rounds at a time. If you check out my "Why case weight matters video" I talk about the tuner a bit. If you subscribe I have 3 videos with this gun that will be posted in the next couple of months 1 mile 2080 yards and 2200 yards. I feel I did it right with my 1-8 twist so I believe you should like yours. One thing is for sure with the 135gr in the 25-06 no creedmore can come close.
NDR
@@nevadadesertrat267 thank you , for the info , have fun with that rifle
What twist rate for 135 gr bullets?
Muzzle brake tames the recoil. But are all of 'jump cuts' really necessary? Oops, forget, ADD-genda, nevermind.
I was curious about the muzzle break as well. I can understand on something like a .458 socom or something, but not on a 25-06. Am I missing something? Maybe I'm not familiar with the recoil due to the cartridge size.
@@dukeravenshadow5532 It has enough recoil to not be able to reliably self spot without it. It's not about the inches on your dick and who's a tough guy, he's just trying to see what he's hitting in real time. He's only got about 1.5 degrees field of view. It has the added bonus of weakening the blast hitting the ground in front and kicking dust. Or maybe he just likes it. Sounds like maybe your gun knowledge comes from gaming.
How much powder are you using for the 135gr to go 2900? Been looking at building a prs rifle possibly in 25-06 using 143 eldx or 147 eldms but cant find any load data for those bullets. Also how much further are you seating the bullets out?
Those 2 Hornady bullets you mentioned I believe are 6.5mm Bullets. I originally wanted a 6.5-06 but could not find any brass. I am seating the Bullets about 10 or 15 Thou off the lands. As for load data I called Berger up and they sent load data to my Email.
NDR
.650 BC out of a .257?!
Its a 135gr berger Bullet. They claim a .650 BC. The ballistics calculator gives me good numbers when using 650. So I know the BC is really 650.
NDR