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How to fit a water isolation valve | Tutorial | Video Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ม.ค. 2017
- Here I take you through the whole process of turning off the water, cutting the water pipe and installing the isolation (iso) valve
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Needed to replace a leaky isolation valve, this tutorial showed exactly what to do....life saver situation 😊😊😊
A few points...some valves have an arrow on the body, indicating direction of water flow.. Also, a set spanner is better in a confined space, rather than an adjustable. This video is excellent, showing the job carried out in a confined space.......as is always the case!
Thank you for sharing. I had a leak and I didn’t know how to turn off the water to the pipe. Now I’ve done it thank you .you saved me a lot of damage etc . Thanks.
thanks for sharing the knowledge, I have just rechanged the valve. It's really useful. Thank you!
I was actually wondering if you could fit an isolation valve, but only have one end connected with the water turned back on so you can carry out work to the taps/pipework at the opposite end of the isolation valve.
Thank you for clearing that up, would've loved to have seen what you did next to reconnect the basin. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you!
I didn't understand how to close the valve directly under my sink.
Your good explanation helped.
You didn't clean the paint off the pipe, you put compound on the threads instead of the olive, sorry but I won't be subscribing to a channel offering bad advice.
My thoughts exactly John. Not cleaning those pipe ends sticks out like a sore thumb !
Very useful. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
You failed to mention that there's a right and a wrong way to fit the valve. It needs to be fitted with the arrow pointing in the direction of water flow.
Agreed! this is why I have to replace 2 of the isolation valves under the kitchen sink. When we moved in last year all was good until I found some water in a small bowl under the sink trap and on both valves, the arrows were pointing downwards. Both valves were showing signs of scaling due to constant leaking and when I changed the tap 2 weeks ago the leaking became worse.
I added one of these valves to the hot supply of my mixer shower and the hot water wasn't coming through all that well, searched the Internet for answers with no joy, you my friend have just solved it for me. I had no idea there were arrows on them. Can you explain the reason for the arrow?, as I can't work out why its important, as it looks like such a simple valve,.. open close!!
@@Beverlymacker The valve is assembled by inserting a ball shaped piece with a hole in it against a spherical seat which is accurately machined into the body of the valve. Then it's secured in place by jamming a spring washer in behind the ball to hold it in place. When the ball is forced against the seat by water pressure it forms a tight seal and blocks the flow. If the valve is fitted the wrong way round then the water pressure pushes the ball against the retaining washer instead which is not accurately machined to fit and so it doesn't seal properly. This wouldn't explain why you don't get a good flow, it just causes leaks.
@@Beverlymacker There are two types of ball valve, the cheap type which only opens to about half the pipe diameter and the full bore type which opens to the full diameter. The full bore type can be identified by their fatter body. The one used in this video is a full bore type as can be seen at 0:57 and not surprisingly they are a bit more expensive. If you have low water pressure then you may need to use the full bore type to get a good water flow.
Good to observe the markings but I believe that some ball valves are bi-directional and won't have an arrow.
Thank you saved me from shutting down the while water supply from every where else.
Any danger of cleaning the paint off the end of the pipe and cleaning up the end. Makes for a much better joint if pipe end is clean and shiny!!!
thanks for not putting music / noise in the back ground, which would make listening to what you are saying, difficult to hear. I appreciate that, thanks again.
Take the paint of first it makes life much easier.
Nice one. Thank you.
You've got more patients than me, working in those tight spaces!! 🙂👍
Great video , what is the process to isolate the hot water supply on an un vented system ?
It would be a good idea to show how to connect another end of the valve (you would want to do that). Also, why not to use a regular compression valve? You seem to have enough space for that. These points must be addressed if the video for beginners (and advanced users do not need it).
@@stokes8626 Yes, that is how I cut in the compression valve. I assume the same is with shark bite. If pipes are not flexible at all, it is a problem I do not know how to address, perhaps by using an adapter and soldering.
Why you did not clean the pipe stil paint on it also why did you put the compound on treat instead of olive
And why you did not removed the basin after shutting the main hot water???
Because he's not a plumber! I can see many a plumber cringing at this video.
Jointing compound seems much better than ptfe tape because the tape is very fiddly and fragile.
Would it not have been a better idea to attach the isolation valves at a better height for the new tap tails and clean/deburr the supply pipes before fitting. Strange approach even if the basic message about compression fittings is good
Thanks Chris Packham!
Very helpful detailed video. Thank you for your efforts.
Don’t put them on the wrong way round or you’ll cut off the water supply for the whole town!
Poor lad lol getting a lot of stick. I was going to say why not take the basin off then fit the valve. Also i would of cut the pipe alot lower if it was possible to fit the valve to give you a bit more length for your new tap fittings. But we all have our own way of doing things. I have never used jointing compound and cant see the point as long as you make sure the olive is in situ it shouldnt leak.
how about push fit ( John Guest speedfit, and fit the collet locking clips, or Tectite valves ) in awkward situations,.
I stagger the valves so that you can tighten the nuts, without the other valve been in the way, and always use DZR full bore valves,, and take the paint off the tube before I cut the tube, and use McAlpine anti-siphon bottle P traps.on wash hand basins. thanks for your video.it's down to earth. which I like.
I don't like pedestal basins, it makes things very awkward, just for looks, which seems to be more important to most people, than functionality.
nearly forgot - how tight, to make the compression fitting, with out over doing it, which causes leaks..mark them with a felt tip pen in line , when hand tight
one and a quarter turns after benn hand tightened, for 15mm.
one turn, after hand tightened on 22mm
3/4 of a turn, after hand tightened, on 28mm
or watch " Conex Compression Installation Sequence " or when you do it for living, you can tell when it's right, through experience.
My isolation valve is leaking from the adjustment thread (where you turn with the flat head screw driver) do I need a new valve ?
Yes you will need a new valve, this is all to common experience after fitting. Beware cheap valves sold in multipacks! Buy single well built product to be reliable. Use lever valves £5.00 each to be sure no leak at on/off control.
Ok I did the exactly same thing cut the pipe. Sand papered the paint on top. But both cold and hot still leaked ?
Hi,
Thanks for the video but I find these type of isolation valves to be rubbish, the one's with the handles are much better, I want to move my tap & one of these are fitted but it's ceased, any advice on how to free it?
Thanks.
Do you mean it's seized?
@@unclegreybeard3969 Yes, sorry, Auto correct, didn't even notice.
Nicely explained. Thank you.
Thank you
thankyou! the best video i have watched so far for me to have a go!
You're welcome Janice. Good luck.
I have one of these before my shower, my shower has very low water pressure, would this be lowing my water pressure
Heads up if your a young guy reading this, screw fix is NOT what its name suggests, its a tool and part suppler.
Remove the waste trap and create more space and make your life a lot easier.
Would have been clearer if you'd have shown fitting the first valve as fitting the second was virtually all hidden by the one in front of it.
That's a very useful video mate, thanks for posting it.
OK got three of them on a 6ft pipe to the shower, one joining the shower to the pipe
They are not full bore.
I'm thinking of taking two off and using full bore couplers, keeping one
Will removing two isolation valves that are flow restricted and keeping one make the water faster
Is one faster than three or is it the same flow rate and psi
How did you judge the gap in the pipes though. Nobody says.
Here I was thinking there was some sort of welding was involved and got a quote for £120 lmao
Ouch
I would have turned the water off, cut the pipes, removed the sink and THEN put on the fittings. Much easier
The idea was to show us how to do it under normal circumstances, i.e: when not replacing a sink/toilet cistern/bath/etc.
But hey, if you want to undo the drain piping as well as the supply piping in order to remove your sink, go ahead.
Excellent. Thank you.
Lol if you're taking the basin out then you could of just turned the water off, take basin out and then put iso valves on, only need to struggle like that if you're not replacing basin 😉
Your valve is Duff when you turned it off it was still showing light.
Valve is fine, it was just light reflecting off of it
Thank you very much John
Are these valves designed to work only in the fully open or fully closed position - IE can they be used to merely reduce the flow of water if there's too much pressure? the problem I have is that since getting a combi system installed I cannot get the pressure right - there's too much pressure at the bathroom sink and the mixer tap is stiff to operate. If you turn the pressure down to an acceptable level using the main stop valve then the water is just a trickle the rest of the house.
I would guess that using isolation valves to restrict the flow of water would eventually wear the internal ball valve - just as water from a dripping tap cuts into the seat. Seek other methods tp reduce pressure.
Please tell me where you bought that valve. it is the style I want. Low profile!
I have a gone and bought myself a German made monobloc tap and the nut ends, of it's flexi tails, are too small for my isolation valves. I measured, roughly, the diameter of the bore of the current isolation valves and they're roughly 20mm. Can I replace those isolation valves with 15mm isolation valves without having to change the pipework or find and fit some sort of diameter adapter (should such a thing exist)?
My plumber has recently had an operation, on his shoulder, and he's going to be out of action for a while. There isn't another plumber for fifty miles. I haven't been able to find one that will come out so far. I tried to replace the tap, myself, and destroyed it in the process (the tails were seized on). Now I have no water in the kitchen and, to make matters worse, in my effort to get the old flexitails off I have caused a drip from the hot water isolation valve.
Angels will smile upon anybody who is able to advise me. :)
Incidentally - it's UK plumbing (the pipes are copper and they look to be the same size as the ones in the tutorial). It's Cumbrian plumbing - to be precise. I suspect there is regional variation - there are special Cumbrian versions of everything else in this house!
There won't be a regional variation mate. I suspect that the 20mm you speak of is probably 22mm and you certainly can get a reducer to 15mm almost anywhere.
I wanted to see the complete job done not just half way?
great insight thanks
Thanks
lmao.. so we have all these experts here.. who know how to fit an isolation valve. so why are they here?
Great thank you!
It is wrong to do compound on the thread. The thread only pulls the olive onto the bare copper, the thread does not seal. When turning, the olive is formed on the bare copper. Copper forms a positive fit on copper, which creates the seal. No compound is allowed in there.
which type of valve should you install on kitchen taps normal or full bore?
Normal is usually okay because the kitchen is a long way from the loft so the hot would have good pressure. The cold will always be of a high pressure because it comes directly from the mains supply.
If you are replacing them it's a good opportunity to put some good full bore valves in.
It’s not bad , he missed few things tho ... the way he put jointing compound it’s wrong, it’s not enough to begin with, you suppose first get abrasive mini strips to clean the old painting off where valve it’s going to sit , after that you need to undo the nut and olive and put it on a pipe work thank get a jointing compound and rubb around the pipe almost to the end , but don’t put it inside it, and rest of it it’s showing on a video .
Why don't British isolation valves have a handle so that the user can turn them off/on without the use of a screwdriver? The American isolation valve has a handle.
With a combi hot water system what valve do you turn off to fit a new isolation valve at a hot tap?
Colin Clarke turn off either the boiler or better if you have separate hw controls turn off the hw control on the boiler. That should do it but you can also (belt and braces) isolate the cold water supply to the boiler either at the boiler if possible or at the house cold water supply.
Why would you install a valve that needs a tool for it be shut off instead of a ball valve with a quarter turn handle?
It stops those pesky anklebiters from messing with your head.
@@petehiggins33 this
These valves come in handy if a customer is not forthcoming with the money... Connect one of these somewhere and turn into off position and await payment
not bothering with how to connect the top pipe? that is the tricky part
Separate video Grak, the whole bathroom needed plastering and tiling before the new basin was installed.
People are always better at criticizing than appreciating..... If the clips bother you just move on.....
7:35 and reached an Oh Dear stage. No more for me.
cant beleive turning the tap off in the sink doesn't prevent water from leaking out when you cut the pipe to the off tap. I mean the tap the live water pipe feeds if off! And yeah good job you pointed out you don't just "pop" the isolation valve on end of open pipe and leave it!! Sure everybody will be great full you pointed out you have to tighten it up!! It's a wonder we even have plumbing before this video
There is a clue in the title. They aren't called compression fittings and have a nut on them for nothing 😁
You apply jointing compounds to the seats of the fitting and inside the olive.... the threads are not what makes a sound joint its compression of the olive onto the two seats.
You are teaching people the wrong way mate and i don't mean to sound awkward in any way.
I fixed my fucking sink thanks to your advice: YOU LEGEND
Ive noticed a small leak on the vavle itself were you turn with a screwdriver... Do i need a new valve mate??
Sometimes they drip slightly in the closed position, but the drip may stop when you open it back up again. If it doesn't, you will have to replace it. If the slot is really small and the valve is old. DON'T! They are notorious for splitting and fine misting spray all over. Close your main stop tap, drain down and replace it altogether.
PS. If it's on mains pressure, a std valve will do. If it's gravity fed, from a tank, you'll need a full bore valve. If you don't the flow rate from a gravity fed tank will be restricted. In the latter case you will have to isolate the mains feeding the tank, or tie up the float valve and drain down.
@@loafersheffield cheers mate
Yer welcome
Does turning the screw in the valve so that screw slot is at 90 degrees to the flow of the water close the valve?
YES ! unless you have a faulty valve.
@@keithterry2169 Thanks Terry
@@GeordieFX You can 'dry test' the valve before you fit it if you want to be sure. Remove the olive and nut and blow into the valve. When the screw is at 90 degrees you won't hear any air passing through.
@@keithterry2169 My question was asked because my washing machine was filling up with water when not in a wash cycle and turned off at the wall. It has a hot and cold water supply connected to it. Obviously one of the inlet valves in the washing machine is faulty. In order to find out which one it was, I wanted to isolate the water supply one at a time. The small blue and red taps have been in the open position for years and they would not budge with a moderate amount of force. I chose to use the isolation valves for fear the taps would break. Hence my question but thanks for your reply anyway.
Correct
Lol I could still see a bit of light when it was closed
enjoy the video
Great
In a true emergency, I would much rather have a lever operated ball valve. I don't know many people who walk around with a straight blade screwdriver all the time.
you could have done second pipe fist and fist pipe second it would have been easiy to record
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how do you connect to the taps?
Think if they are flexi taps just screw on top once you take screw bolt off.
You might need another piece of piping, probably a hose connection. Connect that to the top side of the isolation valve, and then to the taps. Some hose connections actually come with an isolation valve at one end so it’s an all one job.
Didn't clean the pipe
Didn't mention the direction of flow arrow
Could have removed the basin to make fitting the isolation valves easier or at least show the cold one being done first to stop it being in the way for the demo of the hot side.
You're not a very good plumber are you? Metal tools left in a China washbasin? Really, like marking or cracking customers property? Did you check 8f heat source was turned off before clising cold feed gate and drawing system. Complete amateur.
Comical chaos. God sake man, get yourself a small Footprint wrench and stop struggling with those adjustables. Footprints are designed for this kind of close-quarter fittings. A 60 second job.
This is a perfect example of you don't know what you don't know. How are you teaching this.You don't even know what you're doing..
You explained almost everything except for cleaning the pipes, putting compound on the male thread, not female and which way the valve goes with the arrows.
And no its not self explanatory. It's vital to know this and probably most DIY ers wouldn't even think to make sure the arrows are facing the flow of water.
Just awful advise. I wonder how many floodey their homes from this.