ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
How to fit an isolation valve ⚡
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มิ.ย. 2019
- How to fit an isolation valve into pipework using a quarter-turn compression isolation valve.
Isolation valves are normally easy to fit as the majority of them are compression or push fit, you can get valves that require soldering, but they are not as common and can be tricky to install without damaging the isolator.
Links to products on ebay- Isolation valves with flat face- fave.co/2x58Rra
Twin pack of isolation valves- fave.co/2x64BI5
Ten pack of isolation valves- fave.co/2KvtA0c
Isolation valves are useful, because you can service items without having to isolate the water to the whole property. Ideally when installing a compression isolation valve, if you tighten the nut finger tight, then give the nut ¾ of a turn using a spanner/wrench that should be sufficient.
When one isn't a plumber, these videos are so super useful. I'll need to get good at DIY because we've bought a house that needs a ton of work.
I'm glad that the videos help 👍
This video saved our Christmas! It's a long story, but this helped out massively! Thank you, and Happy Christmas!
Quite helpful. I attempted replacing mine before watching this video but it was terrible as water was leaking. After watching your video i did the second attempt and there were no leaks. The problem was that on the first attempt I just placed the valve and tightened the nut without pushing the valve further enough. 😂😂
Thank you. Appreciated.
Naturally a lot of plumbers don't want small 10 minute jobs even as they would pass by the house anyway. Our old plumber retired and it is almost impossible to find a reasonably priced plumber who won't charge more than half hour call out and parts. Now I have found the parts are only a small amount anyway but our old plumber only charged £30 for small jobs. That was a lot of his work and he did well taking on the small things.
One in Chichester through a checkatrade quoted almost £100 for a tap washer replacement. Checkatrade has really gone downhill and I shan't use them again after our last two experiences. I don't know how they are getting high reviews. The one star reviews are horrendous now. Seems they were bought out.
You are welcome
It’s always difficult getting tradesmen to do small jobs, as they would rather do the larger jobs!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you so much. Finally fixed my leak and installed a new sink… and all thanks to you 😃
Excellent! 👍
Nice little tips on top of the main points thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I thought I knew everything about fitting isolation valves but that tip about the weeping screw was new to me, thanks! I have replaced valves in the past for that problem.
Sometimes it works, I guess a lot depends on the water and how much solids are contained in the water.
We use Reverse Osmosis water on site and virtually all the minerals etc. are removed from it- so it is notorious for leaking and not sealing again, whereas with normal water sometimes a weep will seal itself.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video and really helpful info on the flexi tails. You have the knack of explaining things that other youtubers leave out. In this case the reason for flow direction. I bought pegler iso valves recently and neither had a direction of flow arrow. Your explanation of how to work out the direction helped. Thanks!
Awesome! Thank you!
👍🤓👍 full bore version is the way to go wherever possible great video as always👍🤓👍🍰
Thanks for the comment, Wayne 👍
Thanks ! I was trying to find out how to connect a flexi tail to an isolation valve I now know you need the flat ended one !
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
First time participating in any plumbing and your instructions and tips really did the trick. Thank you 👍
Glad it helped 👍
Saving me a ton of money as I'm going to give this a go myself. ill feedback when I'm done.
You know what? I´m subscribing from now on. This was informative enough to feed a family of five. Luckily I have no children. I will use my new knowledge very soon to replace a leaking (as in internal which causes a toilet with a broken sealing to have the water tank filled up within 10 hours even though the valve is closed) isolation valve.
Thanks for the comment and the sub 👍
Great video. Ty. I was dreading installing a new basin. But Ty for the clear instructions.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks so much for all your videos. You have helped me out of many sticky situations
I'm glad the videos have helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Big up Alan Smith for that link. Gonna check it out now. Let's hope they do a 1/2" (15mm) to 3/8s " version. Some flexi tap tails are not 1/2".
Yes, those isolation valves are superb.
It seems they do sell a 3/8 version- www.bes.co.uk/flat-faced-straight-isolation-valve-15mm-x-3-8-bsp-pm-23640
Thanks for the comment
V.useful video, with clear explanations and easy to follow. We ended up using 240 wet and dry sandpaper instead of a deburrer as we couldn’t find one in our DIY shop and it worked well.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good instructions and informative video 👍👍. Was shocked at the size of that valve,would not like to change them too often.👍
They are not that bad to change, you just remove the 8 or 16 bolts on the flanges and split the pipe and insert a new valve with new gaskets. It's often made more difficult because of where they are positioned, so you are normally on your knees with little room to manoeuvre, but there are worse jobs ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Had to replace mine as shredded the screw ....first ever time doing plumbing thanks man all worked out
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Always measured & fantastic advice !!!
Thanks 👍
Great video, really informative and a great source of information for helping me to replace the isolation valves in my shower and toilet! Thanks.
Great to hear 👍
Extremely helpful.
I have found that the screw seizes up on the valves when they have been in situ for some time. The lever ones are better in that respect.
Agreed they can seize up though mine have been in over 30 years with no problems. Try to avoid the cheaper brands if possible. Lever valves are great when you need to be able to turn off the water very quickly but they need the space to be fitted which is not always possible. Mine are fitted on the supply to the loft tank and the cold water feed to the hot tanks. Much better than gate valves...
The flat faced straight isolation valves look great, never seen those before and have sometimes struggled when connecting the flexi-tail hoses to get a reliable seal. Cheers for the tip, I'll be looking for some of those as I usually keep a few in the tool box for whenever changing a tap etc, having the isolation valves makes all future maintenance so much easier :) One tip I can share is if you're considering using the handled isolation valves, is to check the screw that retains the handle with a magnet. I've found a large number of these that use thinly plated steel screws that rust quite quickly, a replacement stainless fixing is a cheap fix and saves the handle falling off when the steel fixing rusts through, especially when you need to isolate a pipe in a hurry and the handle is missing due to a rusted fixing :) Keep up the great content :)
I once had an incident with a isolation valve, with a handle- th-cam.com/video/8Yfb1dSZHQ0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the tip ;-)
you have really helpful videos thak you :)
Happy to hear that!
I only ever use the Pegler isolation valves, don’t bother with the cheaper versions.
👍
For pipework where you need a a better flow you can buy the full bore ball a fix valves so there's no restrictions in side the pipework, either with a lever or slot.Great instructional video though
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good video and well explained. Why would you use a non full bore over a full bore?
I am planning to put an isolation valve on a pipe that feeds the toilet cistern, would full bore be better here or non? Space isn't an issue.
Always great to watch an expert in motion. Keep those vids coming.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for this. This is going to make my life so much easier. Why were these not installed as standard in older bathrooms?!
There are a few reasons-
1. When the bathroom was installed it might not have been recommended to install isolation valves.
2. Cost of the valve and the added time to install.
3. Introducing something else that could go wrong in future (isolation valves are great until they start leaking)
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for the reply. I popped into Toolstation yesterday and got a couple of them, then straight after in Wickes I found 22 mm isolating valves with flexible pipe to 3/4", which is pretty much perfect for what I want to do (fit a new bath). They were dead easy to fit - cold tap was dribbling a bit at first, but it seems to have stopped now and no more water has come out overnight.
Brilliant as always your info is simple but spot on.
Many thanks! 👍
Another great informative video! Thanks
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Great video. Well filmed and clearly narrated.
Thank you kindly!
Never to be used on an outside tap, use a lever full bore valve, if you get a problem you don’t have to find a screwdriver to turn off.
These are a service valve for ball-valve , taps etc you will find that they start to leak through the screwdriver slot after time.
Thanks a lot for posting!
You're welcome 👍
PTFE tape is a must.
Not for compression fittings- th-cam.com/video/6PR0zTU_v30/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
Such a great video and so well explained. Thank you! Also, you have to love that Lancashire accent :D
Thank you! 😃
Really helpful video, thanks.
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
if the pipe is fixed on the wall, how much pipe should you cut out to fit the valve?
Fantastic demo well done pal
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the video.....I've used these a lot but find the "seep" on turning the valve on and off quite common and very annoying. I buy the full bore ones and they don't seem to have that problem.
You are welcome
I think the full bore ones are better quality. There is nothing more annoying that fitting a valve to make the job easier next time- only for the valve to leak!
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman happened to me tonight! I fitted (cheap) isolators on the tails of a radiator and 4 years later I need to change things. Go to turn the slotted part (after first praying to God) and BOTH of them leaked.
Even when I turned it back they leaked. So now they leak permanently:(
So I drained down. No way to further isolate or freeze :(
Thank that was so helpful and very well put .
Glad it was helpful 👍
Thanks mate 🔧
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
cheers cant wait to show my boss my plumbing skillage when we come to do this
👍
Very informative thanks. Subscribed!
Awesome, thank you!
Your Vids are much appreciated 👍 well explained !
Glad you like them!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Another quality video. Thanks for sharing 👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you for saving my money
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
That they can weep out the screw is reassuring.... Mines did that after I closed it off and then opened it again... I stopped the weeping using superglue!!
Thanks for the comment
Another great tip
Thanks.
Ash🏴
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
1:15 how come you havent seen these before? Its mostly used to connect washing machine water supply pipe.
I think you’ll find that they are two completely different things.
Isolation valves are ½ BSP. Washing machine taps are ¾ BSP 👍
excellent video & presentation 👏👍.. the inlet looks smaller than the 15 mm pipe, does that reduce the flow to the tap or cistern ?....
very helpful
I'm sure I've seen a flexi tail with a valve built into the end of it. Will have to see if I can find one for sale.
Yes, you can also get those. I should have included one in the video, but forgot about them!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi, I want to add an isolating valve to a length of 15mm pipe that’s already in place. It runs to an external garden tap. I just want to add it on the internal side of the wall (it runs from a downstairs bathroom) I basically want to cut some length from the middle of the pipe and add the valve in its’ place. How much pipe length should be cut away?
Looking for the answer to this question, did you figure it out?
Great video, very informative.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent man Very nicely explanation given👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
thanks for this, I just relised I fixed a isloation valve the wrong way, as the new one I got had no directional arrow but only a K so I assumed the water flowed to the left I < but it is actually the opposite way. k > this way, yes I am not a plumber, and I could not see nothing on the internet about valves and how to fit them on till this.
👍
if I was installing one of these valves in an existing pipe under a sink what length of pipe should I cut out please.
Great info & presentation, thanks. ps, I found it strange to hear you say 'in situation'. I think you may mean ''In situ'? This does not mean 'in situation'..In situ literally stands for “in place of”, “at the original site of”, “in the natural position of” or “in the undisturbed shape or orientation of”. This is a Latin phrase that is used in different contexts depending upon the area of emphasis. Apologies if im wrong!
I was led to believe that in situ was short for in situation, I could of course be wrong. If the teacher is wrong, the student is wrong 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
Lost a little trust in plastic ones. The previous owner of my house fitted one on the dishwasher, but it wasn't clipped on the hose side. The weight of the hose put pressure on the valve and the plastic housing split and flooded my kitchen. (Lucky I was in when it did it!) Would have been fine if properly installed but still weary of them.
Thanks👍Great tip
Ash🏴
Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video...Thanks👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching! 👍
What distance do i need to cut. Never tells you on any video. Two inch ?
If fitting one in situ 15mm isolation valve on a straight length of pipe how much pipe do you cut out of the pipe for correct operation and installation.👍
Top man , thank you !
You're welcome!
Thanks for the comment
I need to replace my service valve to the toilet cistern, the one in situ has a fibre washer, yet the replacements all have and o seal, will the o seal do same job? Or should i use a fibre washer , replacing o seal obv.
Thanks
Excellent video thanks
How do you drain the water before fittings
Thanks.
Normally, I isolate the water via the main stopcock, then open the outside tap, then open the taps upstairs and the water normally drains out.
Some heating systems will have a gate valve, which can be closed (if it's hot water)
Thanks for the comment
Why does it weep from the screw when isolating and turning back on? What would be the reason for it not working to stop the leak? Would you just need a whole new valve?
Yes, if the valve is leaking from the slot, it might need replacing, although sometimes if you turn the slot slightly, it will stop weeping.
have you ever tried to use a gas rated valve on a water setup ? i was told by a plumber that gas fittings will leak if used with water, but in my experience they dont, i would be interested how many bar of pressure they can withstand.
No, I have never tried a gas fitting 🤔
Thanks for the comment 👍
can you not file down, sand down the thread so it's flat?
You can, as long as you get it completely flat 👍
Great video, one question when fitting the 15 mm isolation ball valve, it will mean cutting some of the existing pipe out to make space for it, how best to measure the space needed by the isolation valve?
There is normally a line on the isolation valve, showing where the pipe will insert to. Just hold that up to the pipe and then make two marks using a marker pen 👍
Great video mate. Just to be sure, the direction of the arrow should be towards the appliance yes ? Ie to the tap or toilet
Yes, that is correct.
Thanks for the comment
Another great video mate. Here's a tip: When you come to close one of these valves after they've not been touched in a long time, squirt some WD40 into the gap near the screwdriver slot, turn it a little, then squirt some more. If resistance is met try turning it the other way.
Thanks for the info
Can I add this isolation valve to a live water pipe? Not sure if i can turn hot water off in my house want to change kitchen tap.
Yes, but you will have to isolate and drain down first
I have this exact job to do on our bathroom sink taps, I must admit I'm a bit nervous about it and have notified the local flood management authority for South Leicestershire.
LOL, as long as you isolate the water and rain it down, it will be fine ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman hopefully it wont "rain it down" in the house 🙄🤭
😎👍☘🍺
Thank you for this informative upload. Are the terms "15mm" and "1/2"" interchangeable for UK fittings?
Yes, only last week I replaced two radiators for a friend and their pipes were 1/2 copper.
Normal 15mm olives (copper are best) and 15mm compression fitting worked perfectly 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Great, thanks so much.
Great video, when fitting to a pipe under the floor what length piece of pipe needs to be cut out to allow fitting?
It depends on the make of fitting, normally it is about 40mm (if I remember rightly).
It’s best to check with the fitting that you buy 👍
Silly question. But does the olive come already inside the flat faced isolation valve?
yes 👍
Very good
Thanks 👍
I have a leak from the isolation valve abutting my cold water storage tank. The unit seems to have a threaded extension from where the leak is coming. The nut to nut dimension is about 69 mm. Is a standard isolation vale OK or do I need a service valve...what is the difference? (I'd like a lever this time). Thank you!!
It sounds like it could be a service valve. There is often a fibre washer in one of those, it is probably damaged and just needs replacing (unless the valve itself is leaking). You can turn the existing valve 90 degrees then replace the washer. If you want to replace the whole valve with a lever type, you will have to isolate the water elsewhere 👍
Hello, thanks for such a good video. We have installed the valve as per your instructions but it's leaking from both screws. The previous valve was installed the other way round. Do you think it has an effect? What would you suggest??
Thanks in advance! Once again, very helpful videos!!!!
If it is leaking from the compression nuts, they might just need tightening?
Ideally the arrow should point in the direction of flow, but in most cases it will not matter.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thank you for the quick response!!!!
How can I know I fastened it well?
It's not leaking or something I just afraid.
If it’s not leaking, it should be fine 😉
The previous owner of my house installed a number of valves the wrong way around. They actually seem to work correctly that way as long as they're in open position. However as soon as you close them (which I need to do to replace the tap) they started to leak heavily from the valve knob... :(
Thanks for the comment
When we're deburring a pipe which has been placed vertically, do we need to worry about the pieces of copper dropping right in to the pipe? What plumbers usually do about it?
I don't think there is much you can do, apart from flush out the bits afterwards.
To be honest, If I was a plumber I'd make something to push in the pipe to stop the shavings dropping down 👍
Great detail video but I wondering do you need to make the pipe shorter to allow for the length of valve and how much?
Yes, you need to make it shorter, unless there is a lot of movement in the pipework. You can measure how much by inserting the pipe and olive into one end.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have push fit isolation valves in my bathroom but I can't turn them, a normal flathead screwdriver is too small. I don't know if I need a special tool
Normally you just need the correct size flat screwdriver. If it one of the valves where the screw slot is plastic - they are crap and the screw often gets chewed up!
If I do this in situ, will the copper chippings from cutting and deburring cause any issues if they fall down the pipes? Or can I just run the tap with the aerator / nozzle removed to flush them out?
It will be fine, as long as you flush the pipe out afterward, as you say though- remove the aerator if possible.
Thanks for the comment 👍
My isolation valve has stopped working turn to on water started to run then it stopped still no water
I've not come across that before.
Is it definitely installed the correct way (with the arrow pointing in the direction of flow) ?
Do I need to clean the pipe of old paint before applying these compression valves or push fit connections? If so what’s the best way to clean them?
Yes it is best to clean the pipe, you can use wire wool, or if you are struggling a blowtorch will quickly remove paint from copper pipe.
Ultimate Handyman thank you, appreciate it, love your videos have me the confidence to rip out my old bath room saving a fortune, looking to do the same in my new house but will attempt to put it back together again!
it seams like just about every time i turn one of those valves off it bloody leaks, had to replace one yesterday that wouldn't stop leaking, right pain in the bum, turned off two stopcocks to that building and i still had water coming through the pipes, a bit more looking around and discovered a third stopcock, about two hours wasted just replacing a 15 mm isolation valves :-(
We have lots of these at work and they always leak when you turn them initially, but they seem to reseal again after a while. Perhaps this is why a lot of plumbers do not bother installing them in the first place.
Thanks for the comment 👍
How much do you need to cut out of an existing pipe?
I assume the pack will have this measurement on it.
In most cases you have to holed the valve up next to the pipe, you should be able to see where to mark the pipe for cutting. If you are lucky, it might say on the packaging!
Now how do you do it at finger tip reach, out of sight behind a bath with a sink pedestal in the way?
It's almost impossible to do it, once the bath is in position. Ideally the isolating valves should be installed before the bath is installed.
Thanks for the comment
Cheers!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
are these isolation valves made as non return valves? or you would need a non return valve and a isolation valve for fitting mixer tap. thanks
No, you would need a check valve to prevent backflow, as an isolation valve will only isolate 👍
If fitting valve to pipe allready on wall how much pipe needs cutting off?
It depends on the make of the valve.
Always best to get the valve and measure 👍
You don't mention the size of the copper pipe
You can get these for 15mm or 22mm pipe 👍
What happens if you need to take the fitting off and reinstall. Would you need a new O ring or can it just tighten all back up as normal without anything extra required
It depends, most of the time you can remove and refit it. If the joint weeps, you can wrap a little PTFE tape around the olive and it should be fine.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Its v difficult when the isolator is tight against wall and in bottom corner, its v hard to get the 2 spanners in. Are there any other tools which can be used?
These can be difficult in confined spaces.
A push fit version would be much easier to fit.
You can get compression nut spanners, but the ones cut from sheet steel are crap.
I have one of these, but it depends how much room you have -
bit.ly/37w7oQd
Are they always in direction of the water flow? Some are in the direction of the pressure, although same thing I suppose
Sometimes they are fitted the incorrect way, it's not normally a problem, but could cause problems when trying to isolate the valve (if there is a lot of pressure).