Got mine replaced years ago with some SIKKY solid aluminum ones so I'd never have to deal with this problem again. Definitely felt an immediate difference in how the car handled.
I was working on this last night, and same, the nut was just super tight and wouldn't go in by hand. So I lined up the nut into the channel as closely as I could, then installed the entire tool to pull out the outer ring of the diff bushing, and as I started to torqued down on the thing, the nut started slipping into the channel. It's super snug in there now! Maybe I just got lucky...
55:43 look how everything looks pretty except that rusty cross brace. I couldn’t do all that work on the backend and not either sandblast/paint or sandblast/powder coat that component for reinstall. Parts look great, but you also have to treat the old ones to complete the look and protect the component. 😉
52:31 do you know what makes threading those bolts a lot easier, anti-seize! I highly recommend putting anti-seize on the bolts, because it makes everything much better by keeping out moisture/rust, and also allows for easier removal!!
Is the thread inside the receiving end okay?? if not, you will have to drill out the hole and re-tap it for a bigger size bolt. Make sure if you do this to use anti-seize.
You got extremely lucky. I was smacking those bushings out for about a half hour. Then I finally brought out the air hammer and torch to help. Still took some time. Pretty sure mine were worse than normal though.
You should do a 4.09 final drive diff upgrade video. Include testing of 0-60 before and after. There’s alot of mystery out there without any hard numbers besides a handful of forum posts from over 10 years ago. Almost nothing on TH-cam either. If people knew the 4.09 or 4.36 gears can drop the 0-60 on a 350z by a full second, people would be buying more of these. Suggest you do it on a DE car. Testing 0-60 before and after with the dragy app.
Is it normal to hear a loud whine all the time after installing these bushings? Got mine yesterday; and while test driving it I can only hear a damn loud whine all the time, and a slam when changing gears.
Why not put on oversized washer in the removal tool kit so you can use it as a press for install? Just stack the washer under the side you need flat with frame and tighten until it stops. Would be a lot easier than hitting it in with a mallet.
So you would use both press plates, the adapter, the small rod and the washer. Thread on a nut to one side of the small rod, then the adapter with the large plate with the slot away from adapter, then the new oversized washer. Place this assembly against frame, then on other side of the frame put the bushing, then plate, then nut. Tighten until flush, no hammer. 2 washers would be better, 1 under each plate, then you know you wouldn't over tighten.
So I'm attempting to remove my differential and the 17mm nut that screws onto the diff cover will not budge. Breaker bar, PB blaster, I even jacked the car up by the diff just enough so it wouldn't twist in the bushing and it's starting to round off. Has anyone had one as stubborn as mine? Any ideas? I'm tempted to unbolt the diff cover and try to rip it out!
I buyed the diff cover BEFORE seeing this video... Now im certain that im not gonna put it in the near future because i don't have all those tools and elevators... Damn... and im in a part of the world that a Porsche is more easy for mechanics than a 350z... so Is me agaisnt the world here... damn it...
![350Z Solid Diff Bushings Install [Z1 Motorsports]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6duTYesFJGE/mqdefault.jpg)
Got mine replaced years ago with some SIKKY solid aluminum ones so I'd never have to deal with this problem again. Definitely felt an immediate difference in how the car handled.
Hey Z1 investing in a air hammer to remove the side bushings on the differential much faster will save a lot of banging with a heavy duty hammer.
Just when I’m in need of a diff bushings z1 has came thru with a detailed vid 👌🏼
24:27 the large nut for my remover tool didn’t fit into the channel
I had to modify mine with a cutoff wheel. The reason they didnt show them putting the nut in that channel
I was working on this last night, and same, the nut was just super tight and wouldn't go in by hand. So I lined up the nut into the channel as closely as I could, then installed the entire tool to pull out the outer ring of the diff bushing, and as I started to torqued down on the thing, the nut started slipping into the channel. It's super snug in there now! Maybe I just got lucky...
55:43 look how everything looks pretty except that rusty cross brace. I couldn’t do all that work on the backend and not either sandblast/paint or sandblast/powder coat that component for reinstall. Parts look great, but you also have to treat the old ones to complete the look and protect the component. 😉
52:31 do you know what makes threading those bolts a lot easier, anti-seize! I highly recommend putting anti-seize on the bolts, because it makes everything much better by keeping out moisture/rust, and also allows for easier removal!!
What happens if you strip the bolt, does the thread in the hole cross thread? And how do I fix it
Thank you for this video! We really appreciate what you guys do for us.
Just finished!❤
Is the thread inside the receiving end okay?? if not, you will have to drill out the hole and re-tap it for a bigger size bolt. Make sure if you do this to use anti-seize.
Is this the same process for an automatic transmission, as in car in neutral for the driveshafts to spin?
Why dont they use the extractor backwards to put the new bushing in place???
You got extremely lucky. I was smacking those bushings out for about a half hour. Then I finally brought out the air hammer and torch to help. Still took some time. Pretty sure mine were worse than normal though.
You should do a 4.09 final drive diff upgrade video. Include testing of 0-60 before and after. There’s alot of mystery out there without any hard numbers besides a handful of forum posts from over 10 years ago. Almost nothing on TH-cam either. If people knew the 4.09 or 4.36 gears can drop the 0-60 on a 350z by a full second, people would be buying more of these.
Suggest you do it on a DE car. Testing 0-60 before and after with the dragy app.
How would cruising at highway speeds be though? I dont really want to be sitting at like 5k rpm
Is it normal to hear a loud whine all the time after installing these bushings? Got mine yesterday; and while test driving it I can only hear a damn loud whine all the time, and a slam when changing gears.
I just installed the z1 polyurethane bushings on my 2005 350z. No whining noise, but I still have bad wheel hop.
Awesome video, excellent job !!!👏👏👏🤝
Could i just fill the factory bushing with window weld?
Does anybody have an idea of what to use for that if we don't have an air hammer or a specially ground down Xtra large socket?
Why not put on oversized washer in the removal tool kit so you can use it as a press for install?
Just stack the washer under the side you need flat with frame and tighten until it stops. Would be a lot easier than hitting it in with a mallet.
So you would use both press plates, the adapter, the small rod and the washer. Thread on a nut to one side of the small rod, then the adapter with the large plate with the slot away from adapter, then the new oversized washer. Place this assembly against frame, then on other side of the frame put the bushing, then plate, then nut. Tighten until flush, no hammer.
2 washers would be better, 1 under each plate, then you know you wouldn't over tighten.
I have never heard of scotchbriteing the new mating surfaces. Is this something you should really do?
If it's a brand new cover, it is not required, but helps the RTV create a good seal.
how much would this whole job cost?
So I'm attempting to remove my differential and the 17mm nut that screws onto the diff cover will not budge. Breaker bar, PB blaster, I even jacked the car up by the diff just enough so it wouldn't twist in the bushing and it's starting to round off.
Has anyone had one as stubborn as mine? Any ideas? I'm tempted to unbolt the diff cover and try to rip it out!
I can’t get the mounting bolts to go in at all any solution?
Your captive washers in the subframe may be stripped. In that case, the only solution unfortunately is to replace your subframe.
They aren't threading in, or you can't line the bolt holes up with the new bushings?
Y’all always leaving jerseys on my clean floors when y’all work on David’s car.
The entire under carriage needs to be treated with dry ice to remove all the rust before it falls out.
I buyed the diff cover BEFORE seeing this video... Now im certain that im not gonna put it in the near future because i don't have all those tools and elevators... Damn... and im in a part of the world that a Porsche is more easy for mechanics than a 350z... so Is me agaisnt the world here... damn it...
I need this done to my G35 from Jersey and mine looks like that also, I should bring mine down since you are good with rusty cars from Jersey 😂
We have a loootttt of practice from Dave’s car 😂
@@Z1Motorsports23 😄
Gotta put some anger behind Wilton!
Wouldn't the top hole be a fill hole? Bottom is drain and top is fill
With the Z1 Dif Cover, you get a fill hole (top), drain hole (bottom), and an additional hole in case you want to install a diff cooler.
I think that's worse than the "z1 test car" Jon bought from me back in 2018