Bob, I personally like the old way of you doing the presentation. I get more out watching you build the project each step of the way. Adding the sprue and the vents. Setting up the mold box and pouring the mold. Same for setting up and pouring the resin, etc. The computer rendering is cold and in personable. People watch you because of your personality and your Shtick! Never underestimate the “Shtick”! I was born and raised in the “Borsch” belt of the Catskill Mountains. The “Shtick” made a lot comedians famous. Best regards, Richard
Yours is the consensus opinion about this video. Everybody wanted to see an actual part come out of a mold. After I made this video I decided that I would continue to use 3-D art but only as part of a project that included real world objects. Thanks for watching and commenting Burt. I appreciate it!
Hi Robert, thanks so much for these videos. I think for those voyeurs who simply like to watch (really, most people on youtube), your other format with actual molds and pours are entertaining and informative, but for me (getting ready to make my first molds) this video contained a TON of useful information. I think you (and all of us watching) might benefit from adding this format to the lineup from time to time. I really like how you can see into the molds, to really understand what's happening and why you are making those choices. Keep it up. Thanks.
Thanks Richard, I appreciate your comment. Be sure to let me know if there are specific topics or issues you’d like me to cover. That really helps me plan the content for my channel.
@@RobertTolone One thing, I'd like to know about casting parts with tighter tolerances and if that's possible. For example, if I have a jar with a snug fitting lid (with a gasket, both lid and jar need to be cast) is there a preferable way to cast this? I would assume a cut mold for the lid and jar would allow some sort of slight deformation of the parts and they wouldn't fit together correctly? Thank you.
Though very informative, and if I were making this mould it is helpful, however, I would rather watch you doing it in real time, Bob. Just do what helps you out, no problem for me, but I like watching the work and the rubber pouring and reveal. Thanks Bob.
The format is great Robert. I cast parts for the models I scratch build and I have seen distortion in even large parts using rubber bands to hold my two part molds together. The method of using a cradle is a great idea and I will make a few for my different molds. I have learned a lot from your tutorials and I will be putting this information to work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I really like the 3D format. It helps convey the message much quicker. Although, I do love watching your physical mold work. Great channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, sir.
Excellent video Robert, I've been casting for about a year now, and just found your channel, and have been watching all your videos and learning so much. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge with us! It is truly priceless.
Always love your videos, but as someone who spends more time doing engineering style models than art style models I found this particularly useful. Thanks!
I think this format is working for what you're trying to accomplish with viewers inputs. It gives a good perspective on what to look for when planning a mold. I would be interested in your overview of the different molding and casting materials. I'm unclear about what materials to use when, or for what reason, particularly for newbies without pressure and vacuum pots. For example I've seen you use urethane for making mother molds, and then turn around and cast 150 tiki's in the same material . Why? So maybe you could break down some general categories of molding and casting resin materials and their appropriate uses - or direct us to the best literature that covers such things. In any case, keep on casting! Your enthusiasm is infectious (in a good way)!
Great idea for a video, thanks for suggesting it. I mostly cast urethane resin in silicone rubber molds. But there are so many methods of making molds and so many materials you can cast with that it is very difficult for beginners to figure out the best materials to use. What kinds of things are you interested in making?
Funny you should ask. I've contemplated sending you some pictures to review. In particular, i'm trying to reproduce vintage door lock handles for a 1940's travel trailer that were originally cast in aluminum (although resin works for me). I've made a silicone mold to cast a few simple ones with some success, but have been stymied by one in particular that has a hex opening to fit onto the lock mechanism. I'll send photos to you for more detail. I've also considered other unavailable trailer pieces like light fixtures as I become a little more proficient. So your videos have been a great help on my learning journey.
This might sound sarcastic but it's not. I like how you include important things no matter how much you repeat yourself from one video to another. So all of the videos are almost self contained.
Robert, I’m a model maker that’s builds mostly science fiction models and I’ve got a general knowledge of making molds and casting. I recently built some masters of some bases I want to use for my built up kits. I need to house electronics in the base which is hollow and I know I need a two part mold to cast them. I’d like to show you photos of what I’m working on but I don’t know how to share them with you. Thanks for the great videos!
Well, since you asked... I think the cg modeling is clear and might save you some time? I'm with Baron McFartybreeks there though, and prefer your personal style more, because as you sort of natter along, little 'wisdoms of practice' come out, and I end up more 'Ah Hah!' moments that don't come with the more textbook approach. Really though, you know what You prefer, and that's most important if you choose to keep sharing these free lessons with us. Them's my two cents anyway, and Thank You.
I am definitely doing hands-on projects as the regular content of this channel. I love the moment when something pops out of the mold! The simulations are just a way I can help someone with a project when I don’t actually have their model in hand.
Hey Robert. This video was very informative. Especially the explanation on how to apply preasure evenly on a cube-shaped two part mold was great! The animations are well done, good job on that. And I finally saw a two part mold making project from you. =) Since you asked for suggestions, I would like to leave a few here: 1) I like this video format you are doing, it contains a lot of information in a short amount of time. But I would not replace your other videos entirely with it. The videos where you are actually working with materials, rubber, machines and where you are unmolding your castings are somehow more entertaining. It is very enjoyable to see how much you like your work and it's really entertaining to see you when unmolding your castings, and this format is missing all of that. On the other hand, the video you uploaded right now is very "dense", right on the point, like "POW => Here is the knowledge you are looking for.", which is enjoyable, too. If it comes to my opinion, I would like to see a good mix of this kind of informative "pow"-videos ;-) and the ones you did earlier, where you show the actual work on a project, showing the machines, the materials, the pressure chambers, the unmolding and all that stuff. 2) As I mentioned before, when you feel like it, I would love to see you do another project on your own by searching through your scratch books. =) 3) I will come up with a project idea, but it might take a while until I find the time to do it. I want to create some small figurines, little monsters inspired by the 1991 Trash Bag Bunch. I would like to create an opague inner resin part, which I then want to stick into another mold that will surround the part with a translucent resin. Like a brain and some spikes inside a ghostly outer shape. My idea is to for example take the spikes as the anchor in the second mold. So the spikes will "break through" the translucent resin and will stabilize the inner casting in the second mold. If you already have some tips for me, I would love to hear them. But I will also send an email when I found the time to start my project.
Thanks for the suggestions! They are so helpful to me. I have been receiving a lot of requests for help on projects via email and Facebook. The last two videos were an attempt to address viewer issues when I don’t have the actual model in hand. But these videos will not replace my shop videos where I actually do physical models. My favorite part of molding and casting is pulling a casting out of a mold. I think people get a kick out of that as well. Next week we’ll be back in the shop. Looking forward to seeing the sculptures you come up with.
I have to agree with this comment. The information is very dense and superb. Perfect for understanding solutions to potential problems. I also do like to see the de-moulding as it happens. I certainly get the point that you can illustrate the solution when the original is not in your hands. For myself, I’d like to see how to efficiently and cheaply make a quick yet accurate waste mould of a figure with many extremities in order to continue sculpting in wax. I say that because it’s the exact thing I will soon be doing. I want to minimise shrinkage and maximise the reproduction of the detail that is already present. I don’t work to an industry scale per-se but that’s a consideration perhaps.
Your videos are great. Any format you use is good. Regardless of the format, you are very thorough in your explanations and clear on the reasons behind your process. I find it very easy to learn from your videos. Keep up the great work and keep teaching us about molding and casting.
Thanks Anthony! Feel free to suggest topics or issues you’d like to see me cover on the channel. I am always trying to focus on content that my viewers will find the most useful.
The tip about the mold box shape is awesome, thank you! I love the format too. It would be great to see your solutions put into practice, but I can tell a mold like this could mean that you bring out video content less often. I'm sure there is a balance there somewhere.
Doing a project like this in real life would probably require at least a couple of videos, maybe several. And it will be fun to do more complex projects in the future.
@@RobertTolone Nice to know. I am having a two weeks holiday from now on and am looking forward to watch the new videos right when they are uploaded. ^_^
Super video Robert; awesome choice for this week's "mold puzzle", and even more brilliant "solution" to the mold puzzle for us to learn from you. I found the 3D animation approach very clear and instructive; but at the end, I felt I was really ready for you to say: "Now, let's head into the shop, and do it!". There is something so unbelievably satisfying about watching you "birth" a cast piece from a mold for real; that when I didn't witness that, it was simply not as satisfying in some way. Would you consider combining the two formats, beginning with the 3D animation "Problem, Theory and Solution" classroom section - as you have done here; and then, without having to re-explain the whole approach, move us into the shop with you, so we can watch you do it for real; "in the lab" - so to speak? Being a highly-visual learner, when you mentioned certain materials, such as: half-round spheres, sheet wax, and half-round sprues; it would really be helpful if you could show us an in-hand example of the materials you use (beyond silicone and resin) - I have to presume these are wax or clay, but I don't really know - and please tell us where one buys these things like: half-round spheres, sheet wax, half-round tubes, bees wax, sticky wax, etc; as I for one do not know if I need to go to my local hobby shop, dental supply house, or hardware store for such things. I would have also like to know what adhesive you would have chosen to secure the part to the backer-board; especially for this technique, as you mentioned we want it secure, but not fused to the backer; so not to disturb the setting of the piece in the mold between pouring the two halves. Thanks again for another great video; you are the best!!!
Baron, your comment is too detailed and complex to answer well here. So I will do a video just on waxes, wax tools and wax suppliers in the near future. In the meantime Google: foundry wax, jewelry wax, Sculpture wax, machinist wax, sprue wax, sticky wax, sheet wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax. You’ll find an amazing amount of info on waxes and suppliers. Thanks for your thoughtful comment!
Also, your question about which adhesive to use to attach a model to the backer board prompts a video all by itself. I glossed over it in this video but it is actually a more complicated and difficult problem to solve than it might at first appear. How to approach this problem is worthy detailed exploration.
Robert, This video is incredibly useful to me. I'm building a surfboard project and this instruction is most helpful. Thank you so much. Did you ever further this project and actually cast the parts? I'd be interested in see more.
I always like your reasoning as to why you do what you do. Ok, you know I’m a novice but I don’t see why you don’t just build a wooden box around the mold? Wood would hold it tightly and be easier to make?
A box can work too. The important thing is to apply even pressure across the face of the mold so that the parting lines close correctly. One bad thing about boxes is that they can hide the parting line. I make sure the lines are perfect around the outside of the mold to help assure they are properly aligned.
So glad I found this channel. Just subbed. Interested in how to avoid silicon seepage on the part halves. My project is a thin wall “cereal bowl” if you will. How can i secure it down (face down) and create a good seal with a clean parting line? Thanks ahead of time!
One way is to seal the edge of the model with the same rubber you will mold with. Paint on just enough to stick the part down. It might help to put some weight on the model; not enough to deform it, just enough to hold it flat. Then paint on the rubber seal. Because it’s such a small amount there’s no pressure to force the rubber under the model. But be careful not to push the rubber under the part with the brush. After the seal is cured you can pour the main body of the mold. This also works for the seams in mold cases etc.
Here’s a link to my material suppliers. Not sponsors, just the places I buy my materials. The parting agents are listed. www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
Robert, your video has me wondering: in foundry work, we produce holes and cavities in metal castings by making "cores" (made of special sand in a separate mold). After the adhesive in the core sand sets, the core is fit into the master sand mold. The metal is poured, and after the parts have cooled, the sand cores are broken out, leaving the cavity behind. I've got a plastic mechanical part and I'd like to produce several dozen copies. But the part has three holes going through it (a 1/2" hexagon, a 1/2" square, and a 3/4" round hole). Couldn't I create three separate molds to make separate "silicone cores"? I'm imagining a brass tube going through each of them (for rigidity and maintaining the shapes) that could be inserted into the master mold? Then, after pouring in the resin and letting it set, I could open the master, and take the main resin part out which would still contain the 3 silicon cores. Next, I could pull the metal rods out, (which would remove the rigidity from the cores), allowing the flexible silicon cores to collapse and come out of the cavities. If I haven't confused you too much, can you see any reasons it wouldn't work?
Your plan would probably work. If you like, send me pics of your project. Possibly I could suggest a simpler method to cast them. But I won’t know until I see the part. Reach me at roberttolone@yahoo.com
Dear Robert, was there ever a second part of this video? I could not find it. (And please, do not feel compelled if there wasn't, I'm just a curious cat). Best.
The 3d graphics really made it more tangible, compared to the 2d and prop video before you can see whats what a lot cleaner. Also i do enjoy the less hands on explanations, mainly because when its more abstract i find it easier to compare to my own projects, that don't necessarily match up 1:1. My recent project has a lot of potted in LEDs and wires, experiments have shown that its really a hassle to make them not float away. sorry for the tangent.
So I have a mighty duck mask that I would like to eventually mold .. I'm falling into two problems 1 being price of silicone lol but 2 I'm very new to this and it is probably very complicated. Two part mold maybe do too its size?
Robert Tolone, thanks for replying, the tire is small, inside diameter of 1.74 inch, height of the tire is 1.23 in, and outside diameter of tire is 2.5 in. I have a couple vintage Rc cars that the only reason I don’t drive them anymore is because they don’t sell tires for them anymore. I actually have an old Rc Lamborghini that I have had for 28 years, the tires are so hard from age, but the rest of the car is perfect. Learning how to replicate tires would be amazing. Thanks again for your time!
Iridium I have never made a functioning rubber tire and have no idea if I could do it successfully but it would be a lot of fun to try. If you want to do it as a project here on the channel send pics to roberttolone@yahoo.com. Thanks!
I would search for a silicone with the properties you require. The Shore scale measures how hard the rubber is, the modulus of elongation tells you how much it will stretch before breaking. The material data sheet for a particular rubber will give you this information. It should be a simple enough matter to search for the appropriate material. I cannot give you a specific product recommendation because I have very little experience working with translucent silicone.
Molds for interior surfaces can be very complex to produce. The easiest approach is always to mold such parts in separate halves. But it would be very interesting to do a mold with an interior mold. I can give it a try!
Exactly what i needed. I am close to molding a printed batman weapon and its pure tech and hollow parts. Do you have an email adress or something to contact you if i have questions?
can you show how to make a copy of a part where you need the hole to be copied because it cant be drilled or machined out? Is there a way to email you?
Deep holes in rubber molds are difficult because the rubber bends or sags. Plus it’s very easy to tear out the rubber when removing the casting. Email me at roberttolone@yahoo.com.
If you have a mold case surrounding your rubber so that each half of the rubber mold is held in a box, then clamps work fine. As long as you are clamping wood to wood. But if you are applying clamping pressure on rubber to rubber it is almost impossible to get the clamp pressure even. So you run the risk of distorting the mold. Even if you have a nice thick piece of plywood on each side of the rubber mold, you’re still clamping rubber to rubber. The bottom line is, clamps will work but it’s finicky to get the pressure even.
This video was an experiment that I have not repeated. I wanted to see if people would like videos that explored techniques of mold making using 3-D graphics instead of physically making a mold. But the consensus was the same as yours. Everyone felt cheated out of not getting to see the real world rubber and resin in action.
I had a hard time following this one. I do better with the real objects and processes being shown. Also, a general comment. When I listen to you talk I have to crank up the sound, then you fire up the band saw or table saw and I get blasted. Even when you do a voice-over the sound goes way up. So if you could work on leveling the volume I would appreciate it.
You are a fantastic educator. I teach elementary children engineering and design thinking and I cant wait to teach my students what you’ve taught me. 𝕋𝕙𝕒𝕟𝕜 𝕐𝕠𝕦 ☺️ for sharing your talent and expertise.
Highly informative, thank you.
Great format. The CG instructions show maximum detail and don’t have any potential lighting issues.
Bob, I personally like the old way of you doing the presentation. I get more out watching you build the project each step of the way. Adding the sprue and the vents. Setting up the mold box and pouring the mold. Same for setting up and pouring the resin, etc. The computer rendering is cold and in personable. People watch you because of your personality and your Shtick! Never underestimate the “Shtick”! I was born and raised in the “Borsch” belt of the Catskill Mountains. The “Shtick” made a lot comedians famous. Best regards, Richard
This was an experiment that was not popular with the viewers so I never repeated it. Live and learn! 😄
Wow, so many good tips. Truly a masterclass is molding design.
The 3D modeling format works great for me, but it would be very nice to see the final product in the real world. Thanks, Robert.
Yours is the consensus opinion about this video. Everybody wanted to see an actual part come out of a mold. After I made this video I decided that I would continue to use 3-D art but only as part of a project that included real world objects. Thanks for watching and commenting Burt. I appreciate it!
Loved this one! Very instructive. Would like to see more on mechanical parts like electronics knobs, arrow keys with living hinges. Etc.
More mechanical parts videos are in the works. Thanks!
Just when I thought you had reached the end of your tricks and tips, you come up with another one. Nice going! Best regards, Richard
Many thanks Richard!
Hi Robert, thanks so much for these videos. I think for those voyeurs who simply like to watch (really, most people on youtube), your other format with actual molds and pours are entertaining and informative, but for me (getting ready to make my first molds) this video contained a TON of useful information. I think you (and all of us watching) might benefit from adding this format to the lineup from time to time. I really like how you can see into the molds, to really understand what's happening and why you are making those choices. Keep it up. Thanks.
Thanks Richard, I appreciate your comment. Be sure to let me know if there are specific topics or issues you’d like me to cover. That really helps me plan the content for my channel.
@@RobertTolone One thing, I'd like to know about casting parts with tighter tolerances and if that's possible. For example, if I have a jar with a snug fitting lid (with a gasket, both lid and jar need to be cast) is there a preferable way to cast this? I would assume a cut mold for the lid and jar would allow some sort of slight deformation of the parts and they wouldn't fit together correctly? Thank you.
Though very informative, and if I were making this mould it is helpful, however, I would rather watch you doing it in real time, Bob. Just do what helps you out, no problem for me, but I like watching the work and the rubber pouring and reveal. Thanks Bob.
This video was an experiment. The consensus from the audience was that people preferred the real deal. So this video was one of a kind.
The format is great Robert. I cast parts for the models I scratch build and I have seen distortion in even large parts using rubber bands to hold my two part molds together. The method of using a cradle is a great idea and I will make a few for my different molds. I have learned a lot from your tutorials and I will be putting this information to work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks John!
I really like the 3D format. It helps convey the message much quicker. Although, I do love watching your physical mold work. Great channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, sir.
Thanks Mario. I’ll be back to pouring resin in the next video! Thanks for commenting, it really helps me out.
Excellent video Robert, I've been casting for about a year now, and just found your channel, and have been watching all your videos and learning so much. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge with us! It is truly priceless.
Thanks for watching, I appreciate the nice comment!
learnt something today. drill the mounting holes as a separate process
Yes and all surfaces that mate to other parts that have precision tolerance requirements such as the bore of the motor housing.
Always love your videos, but as someone who spends more time doing engineering style models than art style models I found this particularly useful.
Thanks!
More mechanical models are coming up in future videos. Thanks for watching.
I think this format is working for what you're trying to accomplish with viewers inputs. It gives a good perspective on what to look for when planning a mold.
I would be interested in your overview of the different molding and casting materials. I'm unclear about what materials to use when, or for what reason, particularly for newbies without pressure and vacuum pots. For example I've seen you use urethane for making mother molds, and then turn around and cast 150 tiki's in the same material . Why? So maybe you could break down some general categories of molding and casting resin materials and their appropriate uses - or direct us to the best literature that covers such things. In any case, keep on casting! Your enthusiasm is infectious (in a good way)!
Great idea for a video, thanks for suggesting it. I mostly cast urethane resin in silicone rubber molds. But there are so many methods of making molds and so many materials you can cast with that it is very difficult for beginners to figure out the best materials to use. What kinds of things are you interested in making?
Funny you should ask. I've contemplated sending you some pictures to review. In particular, i'm trying to reproduce vintage door lock handles for a 1940's travel trailer that were originally cast in aluminum (although resin works for me). I've made a silicone mold to cast a few simple ones with some success, but have been stymied by one in particular that has a hex opening to fit onto the lock mechanism. I'll send photos to you for more detail. I've also considered other unavailable trailer pieces like light fixtures as I become a little more proficient. So your videos have been a great help on my learning journey.
This might sound sarcastic but it's not. I like how you include important things no matter how much you repeat yourself from one video to another. So all of the videos are almost self contained.
I always worry about the repetition in my videos. But my statistics tell me that for every video the large majority of viewers are first-time viewers.
Robert, I’m a model maker that’s builds mostly science fiction models and I’ve got a general knowledge of making molds and casting. I recently built some masters of some bases I want to use for my built up kits. I need to house electronics in the base which is hollow and I know I need a two part mold to cast them. I’d like to show you photos of what I’m working on but I don’t know how to share them with you. Thanks for the great videos!
Hi Jeff, send pics to roberttolone@yahoo.com.
Well, since you asked...
I think the cg modeling is clear and might save you some time? I'm with Baron McFartybreeks there though, and prefer your personal style more, because as you sort of natter along, little 'wisdoms of practice' come out, and I end up more 'Ah Hah!' moments that don't come with the more textbook approach. Really though, you know what You prefer, and that's most important if you choose to keep sharing these free lessons with us. Them's my two cents anyway, and Thank You.
I am definitely doing hands-on projects as the regular content of this channel. I love the moment when something pops out of the mold! The simulations are just a way I can help someone with a project when I don’t actually have their model in hand.
Hey Robert. This video was very informative. Especially the explanation on how to apply preasure evenly on a cube-shaped two part mold was great!
The animations are well done, good job on that. And I finally saw a two part mold making project from you. =)
Since you asked for suggestions, I would like to leave a few here:
1) I like this video format you are doing, it contains a lot of information in a short amount of time. But I would not replace your other videos entirely with it.
The videos where you are actually working with materials, rubber, machines and where you are unmolding your castings are somehow more entertaining.
It is very enjoyable to see how much you like your work and it's really entertaining to see you when unmolding your castings, and this format is missing all of that.
On the other hand, the video you uploaded right now is very "dense", right on the point, like "POW => Here is the knowledge you are looking for.", which is enjoyable, too.
If it comes to my opinion, I would like to see a good mix of this kind of informative "pow"-videos ;-) and the ones you did earlier, where you show the actual work on a project, showing the machines, the materials, the pressure chambers, the unmolding and all that stuff.
2) As I mentioned before, when you feel like it, I would love to see you do another project on your own by searching through your scratch books. =)
3) I will come up with a project idea, but it might take a while until I find the time to do it. I want to create some small figurines, little monsters inspired by the 1991 Trash Bag Bunch.
I would like to create an opague inner resin part, which I then want to stick into another mold that will surround the part with a translucent resin. Like a brain and some spikes inside a ghostly outer shape. My idea is to for example take the spikes as the anchor in the second mold. So the spikes will "break through" the translucent resin and will stabilize the inner casting in the second mold. If you already have some tips for me, I would love to hear them. But I will also send an email when I found the time to start my project.
Thanks for the suggestions! They are so helpful to me. I have been receiving a lot of requests for help on projects via email and Facebook. The last two videos were an attempt to address viewer issues when I don’t have the actual model in hand. But these videos will not replace my shop videos where I actually do physical models. My favorite part of molding and casting is pulling a casting out of a mold. I think people get a kick out of that as well. Next week we’ll be back in the shop.
Looking forward to seeing the sculptures you come up with.
I have to agree with this comment. The information is very dense and superb. Perfect for understanding solutions to potential problems. I also do like to see the de-moulding as it happens. I certainly get the point that you can illustrate the solution when the original is not in your hands. For myself, I’d like to see how to efficiently and cheaply make a quick yet accurate waste mould of a figure with many extremities in order to continue sculpting in wax. I say that because it’s the exact thing I will soon be doing. I want to minimise shrinkage and maximise the reproduction of the detail that is already present. I don’t work to an industry scale per-se but that’s a consideration perhaps.
Just started following the other day , enjoying and learning . Like the format too .
Thanks for watching and commenting Glen.
AMAZING FORMAT!!!
Your videos are great. Any format you use is good. Regardless of the format, you are very thorough in your explanations and clear on the reasons behind your process. I find it very easy to learn from your videos. Keep up the great work and keep teaching us about molding and casting.
Thanks Anthony! Feel free to suggest topics or issues you’d like to see me cover on the channel. I am always trying to focus on content that my viewers will find the most useful.
The tip about the mold box shape is awesome, thank you!
I love the format too. It would be great to see your solutions put into practice, but I can tell a mold like this could mean that you bring out video content less often. I'm sure there is a balance there somewhere.
Doing a project like this in real life would probably require at least a couple of videos, maybe several. And it will be fun to do more complex projects in the future.
Love the illustrations, but still like watching the pours and other steps that show finesse.
Yep. I thought the same. The video is well done, but I would miss the pours und unmolds, if the animations would completely replace it.
Not to worry; I’ll be pouring resin again next week!
@@RobertTolone Nice to know. I am having a two weeks holiday from now on and am looking forward to watch the new videos right when they are uploaded. ^_^
Super video Robert; awesome choice for this week's "mold puzzle", and even more brilliant "solution" to the mold puzzle for us to learn from you. I found the 3D animation approach very clear and instructive; but at the end, I felt I was really ready for you to say: "Now, let's head into the shop, and do it!". There is something so unbelievably satisfying about watching you "birth" a cast piece from a mold for real; that when I didn't witness that, it was simply not as satisfying in some way. Would you consider combining the two formats, beginning with the 3D animation "Problem, Theory and Solution" classroom section - as you have done here; and then, without having to re-explain the whole approach, move us into the shop with you, so we can watch you do it for real; "in the lab" - so to speak? Being a highly-visual learner, when you mentioned certain materials, such as: half-round spheres, sheet wax, and half-round sprues; it would really be helpful if you could show us an in-hand example of the materials you use (beyond silicone and resin) - I have to presume these are wax or clay, but I don't really know - and please tell us where one buys these things like: half-round spheres, sheet wax, half-round tubes, bees wax, sticky wax, etc; as I for one do not know if I need to go to my local hobby shop, dental supply house, or hardware store for such things. I would have also like to know what adhesive you would have chosen to secure the part to the backer-board; especially for this technique, as you mentioned we want it secure, but not fused to the backer; so not to disturb the setting of the piece in the mold between pouring the two halves. Thanks again for another great video; you are the best!!!
Baron, your comment is too detailed and complex to answer well here. So I will do a video just on waxes, wax tools and wax suppliers in the near future.
In the meantime Google: foundry wax, jewelry wax, Sculpture wax, machinist wax, sprue wax, sticky wax, sheet wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax.
You’ll find an amazing amount of info on waxes and suppliers. Thanks for your thoughtful comment!
Also, your question about which adhesive to use to attach a model to the backer board prompts a video all by itself. I glossed over it in this video but it is actually a more complicated and difficult problem to solve than it might at first appear. How to approach this problem is worthy detailed exploration.
I liked this, always good to see other options, cad clears up some of the unknowns and simplifies understanding. good video Robert!!
Thanks, Paul.
Robert, This video is incredibly useful to me. I'm building a surfboard project and this instruction is most helpful. Thank you so much. Did you ever further this project and actually cast the parts? I'd be interested in see more.
No, the designer of the part wanted to cast them himself.
I always like your reasoning as to why you do what you do.
Ok, you know I’m a novice but I don’t see why you don’t just build a wooden box around the mold? Wood would hold it tightly and be easier to make?
A box can work too. The important thing is to apply even pressure across the face of the mold so that the parting lines close correctly. One bad thing about boxes is that they can hide the parting line. I make sure the lines are perfect around the outside of the mold to help assure they are properly aligned.
Thank you for this ☺️
So glad I found this channel. Just subbed. Interested in how to avoid silicon seepage on the part halves. My project is a thin wall “cereal bowl” if you will. How can i secure it down (face down) and create a good seal with a clean parting line? Thanks ahead of time!
One way is to seal the edge of the model with the same rubber you will mold with. Paint on just enough to stick the part down. It might help to put some weight on the model; not enough to deform it, just enough to hold it flat. Then paint on the rubber seal. Because it’s such a small amount there’s no pressure to force the rubber under the model. But be careful not to push the rubber under the part with the brush. After the seal is cured you can pour the main body of the mold. This also works for the seams in mold cases etc.
great information thanks for you 're time in putting this together
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Bravo!
Great format and information. Thank you. Can you please share what parting agent was used between the two two halves of this silicon mold?
Here’s a link to my material suppliers. Not sponsors, just the places I buy my materials. The parting agents are listed.
www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
Makes sense.
Robert, your video has me wondering: in foundry work, we produce holes and cavities in metal castings by making "cores" (made of special sand in a separate mold). After the adhesive in the core sand sets, the core is fit into the master sand mold. The metal is poured, and after the parts have cooled, the sand cores are broken out, leaving the cavity behind.
I've got a plastic mechanical part and I'd like to produce several dozen copies. But the part has three holes going through it (a 1/2" hexagon, a 1/2" square, and a 3/4" round hole). Couldn't I create three separate molds to make separate "silicone cores"? I'm imagining a brass tube going through each of them (for rigidity and maintaining the shapes) that could be inserted into the master mold? Then, after pouring in the resin and letting it set, I could open the master, and take the main resin part out which would still contain the 3 silicon cores. Next, I could pull the metal rods out, (which would remove the rigidity from the cores), allowing the flexible silicon cores to collapse and come out of the cavities. If I haven't confused you too much, can you see any reasons it wouldn't work?
Your plan would probably work. If you like, send me pics of your project. Possibly I could suggest a simpler method to cast them. But I won’t know until I see the part. Reach me at roberttolone@yahoo.com
nice visuals. works well
Thanks Ross!
i want one
I told Wade to let us know when he has them operational. Be a lot of fun to see it in action.
Very excited for the cad work format. The color coding is especially good for clarity during your explanation. What software do you use if I may ask?
I used Rhino 3d By McNeel.
LOVE your channel
thanks for watching!
Dear Robert, was there ever a second part of this video? I could not find it. (And please, do not feel compelled if there wasn't, I'm just a curious cat). Best.
No, only the one video.
The 3d graphics really made it more tangible, compared to the 2d and prop video before you can see whats what a lot cleaner. Also i do enjoy the less hands on explanations, mainly because when its more abstract i find it easier to compare to my own projects, that don't necessarily match up 1:1. My recent project has a lot of potted in LEDs and wires, experiments have shown that its really a hassle to make them not float away. sorry for the tangent.
I love hearing what people are working on. I’ll definitely be doing more potting-in videos in the future. Potting can be really tricky!
So I have a mighty duck mask that I would like to eventually mold ..
I'm falling into two problems 1 being price of silicone lol but 2 I'm very new to this and it is probably very complicated. Two part mold maybe do too its size?
If you want, send me some pics. roberttolone@yahoo.com
Would love some advice on how to cast a Remote control car tire. I have an old vintage car that I would love to replicate the tire.
How big is the tire?
Robert Tolone, thanks for replying, the tire is small, inside diameter of 1.74 inch, height of the tire is 1.23 in, and outside diameter of tire is 2.5 in. I have a couple vintage Rc cars that the only reason I don’t drive them anymore is because they don’t sell tires for them anymore. I actually have an old Rc Lamborghini that I have had for 28 years, the tires are so hard from age, but the rest of the car is perfect. Learning how to replicate tires would be amazing. Thanks again for your time!
Iridium I have never made a functioning rubber tire and have no idea if I could do it successfully but it would be a lot of fun to try. If you want to do it as a project here on the channel send pics to roberttolone@yahoo.com. Thanks!
This is a fun format! What software are you using?
Rhino 3D
If I wanted to make a small molded piece of translucent silicone with high tear strength, what would you recommend? Thank you
I would search for a silicone with the properties you require. The Shore scale measures how hard the rubber is, the modulus of elongation tells you how much it will stretch before breaking. The material data sheet for a particular rubber will give you this information. It should be a simple enough matter to search for the appropriate material. I cannot give you a specific product recommendation because I have very little experience working with translucent silicone.
It's amazing
Could u make silicone mold for m4 magazine or any thing have an internal silicone part ,please
Molds for interior surfaces can be very complex to produce. The easiest approach is always to mold such parts in separate halves. But it would be very interesting to do a mold with an interior mold. I can give it a try!
@@RobertTolone i hope see something like that in your channel
Exactly what i needed. I am close to molding a printed batman weapon and its pure tech and hollow parts. Do you have an email adress or something to contact you if i have questions?
Reach me at roberttolone@yahoo.com.
can you show how to make a copy of a part where you need the hole to be copied because it cant be drilled or machined out? Is there a way to email you?
Deep holes in rubber molds are difficult because the rubber bends or sags. Plus it’s very easy to tear out the rubber when removing the casting. Email me at roberttolone@yahoo.com.
Why not pony clamps to hold the box together?
If you have a mold case surrounding your rubber so that each half of the rubber mold is held in a box, then clamps work fine. As long as you are clamping wood to wood. But if you are applying clamping pressure on rubber to rubber it is almost impossible to get the clamp pressure even. So you run the risk of distorting the mold. Even if you have a nice thick piece of plywood on each side of the rubber mold, you’re still clamping rubber to rubber. The bottom line is, clamps will work but it’s finicky to get the pressure even.
Love your channel! Tks!
Thanks Rodrigo! Let me know what problems or issues you have with mold making. It really helps me make relevant content on the channel.
What computer generated program are you using for the mov up?
I didn’t draw the model. The viewer sent it in. I brought it in to Rhino 3d for the mold parts.
Does someone know what computer program is this?
It’s Rhino 3D by McNeil and Associates.
Understood the concept mechanically of the design , but what I didn’t understand was, did we just get cheated out of building a mold and a pour? 🤔
This video was an experiment that I have not repeated. I wanted to see if people would like videos that explored techniques of mold making using 3-D graphics instead of physically making a mold. But the consensus was the same as yours. Everyone felt cheated out of not getting to see the real world rubber and resin in action.
@@RobertTolone You can tell me but showing me is much better! Seeing is believing! 😁
👍🇧🇷Londrina Brasil
I had a hard time following this one. I do better with the real objects and processes being shown.
Also, a general comment. When I listen to you talk I have to crank up the sound, then you fire up the band saw or table saw and I get blasted. Even when you do a voice-over the sound goes way up. So if you could work on leveling the volume I would appreciate it.
Sound has been the biggest challenge for me. I work on it constantly but perfection eludes me!
You are a fantastic educator. I teach elementary children engineering and design thinking and I cant wait to teach my students what you’ve taught me. 𝕋𝕙𝕒𝕟𝕜 𝕐𝕠𝕦 ☺️ for sharing your talent and expertise.