Ohlins fork seal replacement / GSXR-1000 seals mod
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ค. 2013
- A DIY step by step guide on replacing the oil seals on Ohlins forks (09 Aprilia RSV1000R) with improved GSXR-1000 (2004) seals. Other than a pin-spanner wrench, no special tools were used.
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That wooden fork tube holder jig was worth the watch all by itself. And you made a daunting job look very manageable. Thank you.
@smithj108 Thank you. Your guide has literally saved me over £200. The service centre would have charged £325 to change the seals on my RSV factory. Instead it was £130 including a pin tool for the parts and oil, and a Sunday afternoon. Most of my time actually went on cleaning! I really appreciate you taking the time to make this easy to follow and practical guide. All the best! Keith
you would not want this guy working on your forks. A proper Öhlins service center would only use Öhlins parts & oil. You may save a buck or two initially but overall service life is not up to Öhlins standards. You get what you pay for so...
Mate, I cannot tell you how much this helped me. Thank you.
Thanks mate! Being used to WP and showa, tgis really helped when I replaced the seals on my 999s Ducati forks....
The standard R6 forks have that spacer and I was put off attempting this service as I thought it couldn’t be done without the spring tensioner and rod retainer tool. I might try this now as you managed to get round it successfully and even made use of the spacer to work on the lock nut,
Thanks!
Flat side of the washer against the seal by the way. I downloaded the Dave Moss video and he made it very clear the flat side it against the seal.
Thanks. This was of some help with me doing mine.
Thanks for this well made video TB, very informative. You are clearly what we used to call in my trade a, "gentleman fitter" with your ingenuity and attention to details such as the protection of the anodized components. Still got the Aprilia?
Cheers did mine couple Yr ago after watching this vid on my rsvr forks thanks for the vid
I really hope u did know that u can pull that "nozzle" out of that oil can, lol ! Gr8 video !
Thank you for such a detailed break down. You doing it one handed gives me the confidence bad I will be using both hands "lol." Is this fork in the video any different than on a 2000 Aprillia rsvr Millie? That will be my project, it looks identical.. Ps, any suggestions on bracing the bike to take the forks off
Thanks for the video. What fork grease do did you use?
Thanks for the video. Do you by chance remember what viscosity oil you used? Thanks.
Amaizing detil for your video i like this 💓💓💓💓
Hmmmmm, all I can say is that, that's the way mine was, and I am the original owner of this bike - bought it right out of the crate. Having the smoother "finished" side in contact with the seal insures that washer won't cut/mar/damage into the seal. You'll note that the tube lip that ring sits on is sharply machined as well, so the two flat machined parts fit perfectly. I can't explain why your's were flipped. Perhaps it really doesn't matter, but just good measure install it back how I found it
I searched for that spanner wrench and couldn't find it. Can you please send me a link? Thank you.
This is perfect my R ohlin fork started leaking. Do you happen to have the part number for the K4 1000 GSXR fork seals??
Do you have a part number for the k4 gsxr seals??
I thought the flat side of the washer faced the seal and the rounded side faces away from the seal? thats the way mine was?
Can I use fork oil to lube new seals or do I need specific grease? Thanks. Great video. Changing mine tomorrow.
fork oil is fine or teflon grease.
Thanks for this - really helpful. (what idiot downvoted this?)
BTW the washers on mine were flat side to seal too but it made sense to flip them on rebuild.
Hi I have these on the front of my bike, can you explain the blue nut and how to adjust. Also is the Alan key one inside the blue an adjuster
Depending on your bike for settings blue nut is for spring preload....it has a + and - on the outer ring, + is firmer etc.....the small Allan screw can either be rebound or compression...typically right hand fork is rebound left is compression....
Can you say that the GSXR's seals worked better than the original ones? Or could you give any feedback on the difference between before and after? Thanks
No! he could not say this!
The oil level is supposed to be measured with the spring in and the damping rod pulled out fully.
Hi Brian, thanks for that detail. Information seems very difficult to get hold of for these forks, mine are on an Aprilia RSV factory. I believe they are just called Ohlins 43mm road and track ? Can you tell me where to find detailed information please.
I found that my seals weren't lasting very long at all, I've found what I think seems rather a lot of clearance in the bottom bush. I've adjusted this by carefully filing away a fraction of the bush in the split, so closing the inside diameter. I have refitted the bushes with an 0.5mm or 2 thou shim to ensure the fit into the leg.
Do you know the exact standard oil level, in the past I have just put in 500ml of 5 weight. 👍
Hi Mr Smith, don't suppose you recorded the code numbers from this double spring seal. Looks a better seal than the originals. How often did you have to change yours? Cheers Mitch UK.
I always get amazed by people judging technical stuff just by its looks, I'm sure you don't own a digital suspension bench to show you the hysteresis difference between 2 seals
@@ivanrybkin9384 A seal as I see it has two jobs to do, to seal and stop dirt ingression, it either does this or it leaks. Along as it can perform this simple function for an acceptable service period it's a winner.
I replaced my Ohlins forks seals with items from a reputable manufacturer some two years and ten thousand miles ago, they remain oil tight and fully serviceable.
Forty-seven years in manurfacturing engineering and maintenance has taught me what bullshit smells like too. 😉
Hi! I don’t understand how much is exactly milliliters of oil? First is half a liter and then, how many milliliters you get out?
1000 millilitres = 1 Litre. Half a Litre is 500 millilitres or 500 ml.
Any feedback on how the GSXR seal is holding up?
Sure... 3+ year later and no leaks, no wetting, no weeping. Forks are still tip-top. Very happy with gixer seals.
Does anyone know what gsxr seals will fit the 2000 aprilia rsv? I have ohlins.
You can buy Öhlins seals relatively cheap & then you know it will be correct! Why take a chance on an inferior part?
Hi,can anyone tell me where I can buy this tool ? for opening the fork?`a link from a shop would be enough for me
search amazon or ebay for pin spanner. aprilia makes a tool as well you can order from af1.
mate.. any recommended tools for adjusting that up n bottom blue alloy bolt with leave any marks/scrathes on it? cuz its annoying to see it permanently scraths.. thankyou
Aside from purchasing and anti-marr wrench/socket, you could try wrapping the nut in masking tape. A few layers of tape might enable a snug fit from a standard socket wrench next socket size up.
i covered the bolt with plastic handbeg..and no marks/scratch on it.. i tried to turn my preload bolt clockwise-counter clockwise, but i found it too tight.. do i need to lift the front wheel first before trying to turn the bolt? thankyou.
smithj108 mate.. had my fork serviced last week.. but now.. it leaks in between the preload adjuster (blue anodised) and fork cap
www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=272446&d=1423245108
same like this..
+Kamarul Azlan put a plastic baggie on the nut and put wrench over the bag.
mate.. do you know diameter for all those o-rings in ohlins? mine is leak.. and we dont have ohlins dealer in here.. thank you
oil number motul ?
I cant find anyone who's replacing the bushing.
Looking at how he is skimping on buying the correct parts & oil he probably does not have the correct tools or training to do a bushing replacement. The bushings are not very expensive. call Öhlins USA for all seals, bushings, etc. & service to your forks if needed
That is a bad way of installing the fork seals. The new seals should be installed onto the inner tube and the oil seal should tapped into the outer tube with a seal driver. If a seal driver is not in you future you can install the new seal into the outer tube but put the dust seal over the inner tube. That way you can watch and guide how the inner tube goes into the oil seal. The inner tube usually has sharpe edges that can shave rubber off, cut or damage the oil seal if the tube is just pushed straight in. Actually if you angle the tube just slightly and put it in the seal pulling it over to one side stretching the opening of the seal slightly while slowing feeding the inner tube into the seal as you tip it back vertically and wiggle it laterally so you do not catch anywhere. There are numerous other things you can do much better but I get the fact that the guy that made the video is not a professional; he is someone trying to save some cash by doing it himself. Note --> Even may so called professionals are hacks!
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I cannot disagree with you. Your comment is indeed the proper (by the book) way of installing the seals. That said, yes I did demonstrate an unorthodox method in this video for those without a seal driver handy. I don't think cost is an issue more than having a driver available at the time. Regardless, yes the tube-end can be sharp enough to damage the seals. In which case one can apply tape or plastic bag on the end - and that can be apply to either method. Regardless, your point is well received - careful not to damage the seals with the fork-tube ends.
do it the correct way or hack your way through it like this guy
why would you not use Öhlins fork seals & Öhlins oil? makes no sense!
No need to mate. Ohlins don't make their own seals, they are just hydraulic cylinder seals.? Nothing magical about them and buying them from anyone but Ohlins lowers the price by about half.
@@nigelmitchell351 there are high & low quality bike parts out there for a reason. Öhlins chooses to run tests on all available seals from many different manufacturers & then only chooses one! The best made, longest lasting parts. So you get what you pay for with Öhlins! Considering that this is the main seal that holds all the fluid inside the system why would you try to skimp & try to save a dollar in this area? It only tells what level of mechanic you are! Good luck to your customers
@@discmotoslots Bullshit Harry, I've worked in heavy industry for 45 years so I've seen some action. You're right there are substandard or counterfeit parts out there, but if you new the mark up on these parts you'd be shocked. Reputable manufacturers parts at realistic prices that's what I've always sourced and never had problems. Motorcycle fork seals have an easy life compared to hydraulic oil and dust seals working in hydraulic plant at huge pressures and in such adverse conditions that you wouldn't believe and there really isn't much new in double lipped oil seals nowadays.
So you keep paying through the nose for those OE bagged parts if you like, I'll trust in my judgement and save my pounds. Sounds like you have more money than sense or experience.
I don't have customers I only work on my own bikes and family cars as I have since iwas a lad. Peace & love Harry, Mitch.
i work at Öhlins so i am qualified to speak on the subject. more power to you for doing a job i would love to do myself but am not fully qualified . forks are constantly moving so its hardly an 'easy life'. if you offer the choice to the customer perhaps they will choose the correct parts for the job & it takes the pressure off of you in these trying times
@@discmotoslots Hi Harry when I refered to an easy life, I of course meant by comparison with the fixed and mobile plant powered by complex high pressure hydraulic systems. These systems operate in extremely hostile environments which test any component to the max. You can easily buy these components through engineering suppliers and will be exactly the same as the expensive one in the OE bags. TBF, Ohlins standard front fork seals do not have the best reputation anyway, that's why this guy is using some different ones for a Suzuki.
This guy may look to you to be working in very a rudimentary underequiped workshop but it just shows that the the most important tools you need are intelligence and ingenuity, look at the way he cares to protect the anodised components. You often won't get a mech this good at your local bike shop.