When checking the Stator you need to check with your multimeter between the red wire and the white wire you should have 125 ohms + or - 15 ohms, between the green wire and the white wire you should have 730 ohms + or - 35 ohms. This next part make sure your meter is set to AC voltage.when turning the engine over you should see between the red and battery neg around 1.5 to 4 volts AC , This is the trigger signal for the CDI/coil to send the power from the capacitor in the CDI to the spark plug. on the Green wire when turning the engine over you should be seeing an AC voltage of around 80 volts AC. This charges the capacitor in the CDI/Coil.Also the green wire will go to the ignition switch and when in the OFF position will short it to earth to kill the engine so unplug it from the stator wiring and see if you get a spark then. (norm a white plug with a green and yellow wire in it just Unplug it)if you get a spark now it will more than likely be the wiring to the ignition switch or the ignition switch itself the starter motor would not have any effect on it as long as it is turning over fast enough. I hope this helps, It did me and mine is up and running now.
Hi friend. I checked everything as you described and mostly the values are approximate. I got 980ohm on the green wire and 0.7v on the red wire. What could be the problem?
Your testing basically proves only one thing, the wiring loom is ok. The resistance checks prove do don’t have a short, but none of what you checked would tell you why you don’t have a spark. Ok working backwards, Sparkplug>lead> COIL(generator aswell if it doesn’t keep running. DMM Check the lead for continuity. Buy a new spark plug if it isn’t already new... test coil (from lead socket to coils ground ohms should be between 10k and 12.5k
Did you ever find out what the problem was? Im having exactly the same trouble on the same bike after fitting a new crank and cylinder etc.. Its already had 4 different coils, 4 stator plates and a brand new flywheel! Its doing exactly the same as what yours is doing with the spark being intermitent.. Im starting to lose my temper with the poxy thing at the moment.!!! 🤔
Have u change the coil pack and ht lead make sure u have put this on correctly as this will be an issue. If your saying you have tryed everthing and everything works as it should then it can only be coil and ht lead there is nothing else left to check
Stuart Da Veiga it turned out that this bike had a compression problem, crack in the piston wall where the head bolted on. Also adjusted the wiring, will take a look today and reply with the proper connection points
When checking the Stator you need to check with your multimeter between the red wire and the white wire you should have 125 ohms + or - 15 ohms, between the green wire and the white wire you should have 730 ohms + or - 35 ohms. This next part make sure your meter is set to AC voltage.when turning the engine over you should see between the red and battery neg around 1.5 to 4 volts AC , This is the trigger signal for the CDI/coil to send the power from the capacitor in the CDI to the spark plug. on the Green wire when turning the engine over you should be seeing an AC voltage of around 80 volts AC. This charges the capacitor in the CDI/Coil.Also the green wire will go to the ignition switch and when in the OFF position will short it to earth to kill the engine so unplug it from the stator wiring and see if you get a spark then. (norm a white plug with a green and yellow wire in it just Unplug it)if you get a spark now it will more than likely be the wiring to the ignition switch or the ignition switch itself the starter motor would not have any effect on it as long as it is turning over fast enough. I hope this helps, It did me and mine is up and running now.
Hey Andy if you see This I need help with mine
Hi friend. I checked everything as you described and mostly the values are approximate. I got 980ohm on the green wire and 0.7v on the red wire. What could be the problem?
Your testing basically proves only one thing, the wiring loom is ok. The resistance checks prove do don’t have a short, but none of what you checked would tell you why you don’t have a spark. Ok working backwards, Sparkplug>lead> COIL(generator aswell if it doesn’t keep running. DMM Check the lead for continuity. Buy a new spark plug if it isn’t already new... test coil (from lead socket to coils ground ohms should be between 10k and 12.5k
same story with my rieju rs 50 mate same engine
Did you ever find out what the problem was?
Im having exactly the same trouble on the same bike after fitting a new crank and cylinder etc..
Its already had 4 different coils, 4 stator plates and a brand new flywheel!
Its doing exactly the same as what yours is doing with the spark being intermitent..
Im starting to lose my temper with the poxy thing at the moment.!!! 🤔
The starter was dragging and robbing power. Try bump starting it and it should fire up. If so then the problem is an old starter.
Have u change the coil pack and ht lead make sure u have put this on correctly as this will be an issue. If your saying you have tryed everthing and everything works as it should then it can only be coil and ht lead there is nothing else left to check
griffspeed the comment by Andy Furber was very helpful as well.
My bike will only run if the yellow wire is put where the white and red wire goes and the red and white wire goes where the yellow wire was
Stuart Da Veiga it turned out that this bike had a compression problem, crack in the piston wall where the head bolted on. Also adjusted the wiring, will take a look today and reply with the proper connection points
Did you try lifting up your kick stand you know it's got a censor on it that will not allow it to get spark.lol😂😂