I had the same idea, water/coolant around the firecone but circulated otherwise it would boil fast. I'm going to just weld stainless together and use plaster-sand mix around it for a further heat sink. I'll see how that goes.
water cooling the throat is bass ackwards...you want to get it white hot if you can. you are just trying to use cheap found materials and i will not work for very long...i still applaud your effort and time and experience will rule the outcome.
I know, I've gotten gasifiers hot enough to melt firebrick. Those were not cheap found materials. Also, this design is using oil for cooling, not water. Oil can get up into 400-500F before it starts breaking down. Still not white hot, I guess. Thanks for stopping by.
@@dansw0rkshop Try using stainless steel, I'm going to try welding some dog dishes and kitchenware bowls with 308L16 rod. One guy bit the bullet and just machined his entire firecone-venturi from stainless LOL!
Dale is right it is backwards. It only gets cooled after it leaves the reactor for the cleaning. This cone type is called an Imbert and is for wood. You want the whole cone to get red hot and submerged in charcoal that forms on the whole bottom end and all around the cone to make pyrolysis. On the outside of the cone as well. Just like when you put a dry spaghetti noodle on the metal of a red hot stove burner. The metal has to get red hot.
1. Yes, the woodgas needs some cooling before entering the engine. 2. You still need a throttle butterfly for throttle control, so I tend to leave the original carburetor in place for that purpose. On generators, this is necessary for frequency control at 60Hz. On a car, this connects to the accelerator pedal. 3. Then, the woodgas "carburetor" is simply a plumbing tee with another valve to control the air-fuel ratio (which can be quite finicky). I'll soon have another video up showing the generator setup.
If you are asking about the oil cooling part, this is something completely different. In this gasifier design, the oil cooling is to keep the hearth and air intake from melting. You can melt steel with charcoal. Easily. The oil cooler prevents that.
Thanks for your video, Sir.
I had the same idea, water/coolant around the firecone but circulated otherwise it would boil fast. I'm going to just weld stainless together and use plaster-sand mix around it for a further heat sink. I'll see how that goes.
water cooling the throat is bass ackwards...you want to get it white hot if you can. you are just trying to use cheap found materials and i will not work for very long...i still applaud your effort and time and experience will rule the outcome.
I know, I've gotten gasifiers hot enough to melt firebrick. Those were not cheap found materials. Also, this design is using oil for cooling, not water. Oil can get up into 400-500F before it starts breaking down. Still not white hot, I guess. Thanks for stopping by.
@@dansw0rkshop Try using stainless steel, I'm going to try welding some dog dishes and kitchenware bowls with 308L16 rod. One guy bit the bullet and just machined his entire firecone-venturi from stainless LOL!
Dale is right it is backwards. It only gets cooled after it leaves the reactor for the cleaning. This cone type is called an Imbert and is for wood. You want the whole cone to get red hot and submerged in charcoal that forms on the whole bottom end and all around the cone to make pyrolysis. On the outside of the cone as well. Just like when you put a dry spaghetti noodle on the metal of a red hot stove burner. The metal has to get red hot.
Dan, i don't understand the design, are you cooling the air / woodgas before it enters the carberetter ? is there a need for a carberetter ?
1. Yes, the woodgas needs some cooling before entering the engine.
2. You still need a throttle butterfly for throttle control, so I tend to leave the original carburetor in place for that purpose. On generators, this is necessary for frequency control at 60Hz. On a car, this connects to the accelerator pedal.
3. Then, the woodgas "carburetor" is simply a plumbing tee with another valve to control the air-fuel ratio (which can be quite finicky). I'll soon have another video up showing the generator setup.
If you are asking about the oil cooling part, this is something completely different. In this gasifier design, the oil cooling is to keep the hearth and air intake from melting. You can melt steel with charcoal. Easily. The oil cooler prevents that.
@@dansw0rkshop thank you.