I love the channel painting and decorating two brothers who are third-generation fellas who know their stuff and are meticulous in their approach from prep to finish they use PVA on most applications and I also do without failure. thanks
doing something wrong for a long time doesn't make it correct. As I said, PVA isn't alkali Resisting and thats where the problems come with a surface like bare plaster thats an alakali surface.... stuff I learned at College, not everyone has been there though and I do seem to see a lot more now on the tinternet making stuff up as they go along as 'they've never had any problems'.
I’ve been painting 32 years and always used vinyl Matt thinned never had a problem ever In fact I prefer it to Matt and better to lightly rub rather than rubbing Matt down causing too much dust
Good vid Phil 🤙.. I never use contract paints anymore for mist coating just watered down Johnstone’s cover plus vinyl Matt. .. and there new formulas opacity is truly outstanding 🙌🙌 🦍
Nice one Phil About time someone explained the basics The amount of builders painting the full emulsion straight on plaster frustrates the crap out of me I was advised by F&B to water down their modern emulsion and use that as a mist coat once, then two top coats of finish emulsion. No tones primer. Even in a bathroom I questioned this to death but they were adamant that is what I needed to do I took photos, even of mixing it up with measured water in case it went wrong The build was over a million pound and I was told by the project manager that, that is what had to be done It's been a few years now and so far I haven't heard of any problems, so no idea if it was successful. It would be interesting if anyone else would phone technical up and ask and see if the same is advised I won't do that again regardless but my hands were tied by the contractor Optiva primer all the way for me If I have a room that was wallpaper over plaster lath, I strip it off, sand with the mirka Clean down then prime with a watered down 3 in 1 base coat by Dulux This seals the surface ready for Volden ready mixed filler Once that has been sanded back, a coat of Optiva primer applied to seal for top coat It's a system I use all the time on these types of job It works 100%
Hi Phil, I have issues with painted wall areas bubbling and blistering frequently. It’s a common occurrence and it’s annoying, frustrating and soul destroying. Only this last week I encountered those small moon shaped bubbles you described on a huge hallway. I noticed them on the surface of the previously painted walls while on the preparation stage ( I didn’t notice them when I initially looked at the job due to poor lighting), which suggested the previous painter had the same issues. It seems to me the paint was applied undiluted, evidenced by the extremely heavy brush and roller marks. Nevertheless, the extent of the blistering was widespread following the first coat of emulsion I applied. At this stage, what do you suggest as a solution? In the past I’ve scraped back as much as I can and then applied a coat of coverstain, which seems to provide a stable base. Any suggestions would be appreciated. As I mentioned earlier, this is a common occurrence and I wonder if it is strictly down to the poor application and quality of the first coat. I wonder, post-2010, when paint manufacturers reduced the solvent contents in paint, if paints actually cure nowadays. Do you remember when you would wipe out a kettle or scuttle bucket at the end of a day’s work and use it again the next day without actually washing out the paint? You can’t do that anymore, as the previous paint is softened by the freshly poured paint, hence the emergence of scuttle bucket liners that are sold at decorators merchants. It can’t all be down to DIYers and non-decorators, can it? ‘If you can piss, you can paint!’ so I’m told. All the best
Painting for 32 years used to use Permoglaze high opacity first thinned 30 percent then two vinyl matts Still do it today with crown as Permoglaze has gone
I have a new kitchen to mist coat and finish after. I was going to use Dulux Supermatt watered down 10% for the mist coat through the walls and ceiling. Then a watered down Dulux durable flat Matt tinted in a light tone for the first coat of the ceiling and a further undiluted topcoat. Then was going to use Crown Clean Extreme for the walls, again a slightly watered down coat followed by top coat. What do you think?
tnx, for emultion... 2" 3" and 4", brushes from LickPro and Monach. woodwork, Monarch, arroworth slash cut.. also Nour Heritage have a look at my product testing vids on brushes
I have a mirka thats dustless sanding... but you can dust off or wipe down if you like, but TBH, if you apply a thin wash coat to bare walls you'll collect ay dust in that coat of paint, which you will nid down again when you lightly sand over again before painting with top coats. if you need to fill, do that after the wash coat.
I like to use Dulux supermatt for new plaster. It covers so well that it looks almost finished after a piss coat. If it’s just 1 ceiling or something I’ll just piss down the Dulux vinyl matt for a piss coat
Thanks for this Phil! Great info. Can I use Johnstones Trade Aqua Guard (White) with water 50/50 for a decent mist coat? I have that paint already! So will save me having to purchase another tin 😊
Ever tried zinsser 1-2-3 as a mist coat Phil? Got a few litres spare and I’m thinking of trying it as you can use it on plaster according to spec, either that or shall I just do traditional contract Matt thinned down a tad?..
Wot no pva???? 😂 Im glad you mentioned thinning ratios Phil...so many say 50/50...that will ruin a coat of paint because it breaks down the binder too much, and, especially in the case of cheap retail paint, will be like painting skimmed milk!
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorI think half an half too much for any paint (maybe with the exception of Dulux supermatt, although even Dulux only recommend 30% for a mist/wash) I've seen decorators suggest two mists as standard because they thin the paint too much
Phil, thanks for a great video. I'm in the US and recently purchased a home built in 1930 with plaster walls. I'm undecided if I'll tackle the paint job myself or hire a professional. In either case, I'd like to understand the process of painting over plaster. Is a wash coat preferred over existing painted plaster?
glad to have you on board :) wash coat, mist coat, miss coat.. what ever you call it, is a thinned down coat of emulsion/paint that goes over bare plaster. other bare surfaces, you'll thin a paint down to help it soak in, then you can fill/caulk etc and then start your chosen paint system. PRIME - UC - TopCoat (many times two coats) If going over previously painted surfaces, you don't need a wash coat. You may need to ease your paint if it feels a bit hard to apply, this is due to the fact you don't know how porous a surface is and it will take the moisture out of the paint you are applying. Thinning it slightly wil help you get it on. once it's on, then next coat should go on fine.
I done a full renovation every wall replaced,mistcoated new plaster myself and paid a decorator to paint where he had a time covering patches showing from the mistcoat.He said 40yr in trade you use the matt straight out tin and he has never had an issue. You waste paint and money watering it down. After my experience using youtube to make my mistcoat i agree with him.
Phil could u please answer, ive just brought a gaff, god knows what paint is in each room, probably a load of shit on walls etc, if in doubt is it a good shout to just bite the bullet and do a coat of gardzs on all the walls and ceilings prior to doing the whole place in durable matt (johnstones trade) cant be assed with any issues and the cost/time for me to do a coat of gardzs isnt a big issue. Or if u feel another product is a better shout to use ill go with that before the duarlable matt goes on, always enjoy ur videos, cheers
yes, a good idea, OR check out the video I did on the Beeline primer/sealer.... that you thin down and apply prior to painting and is very similar to gardz
Thanks for the reply buddy, just watched the beeline video and looked up the product aswell, as u said on the video its brush only, and tbh there's way too many rooms for me to ass about with a 3 or 4 inch brush, so I'll fly round with the gardzs and a roller, keep up the good work mate and thanks again for the reply 👍
Hi Phil, thanks for this video, it's very timely as I have a load of bare plaster to paint! They don't seem to sell Screwfix No Nonsense Trade Bare Plaster Paint any more, and instead Screwfix sells Fortress Trade Matt Emulsion Bare Plaster Paint. Have you had any experience with the Fortress paint for painting bare plaster? I'm torn between the Fortress paint vs watered down contract matt. I'm looking for the most idiot proof way :)
Hi. I think Screwfix are have a change of supplier as a few no nonsense products have disappeared. The fortress bare plaster paint will be fine... Read the back. It may still need a bit of water in it to help it go on easier for you. Contract Matt is still fine, just thin it enough to soak in well. Remember. A wash/mist coat isn't there for opacity obligation of the surface
Thanks@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorthat's great. Seems like I can't go wrong really. I'll go for the ready-mixed stuff as there seems to be less chance of me cocking it up, and will water down if needed as per whatever it says on the back. Thanks again 👍
Hi Phil, johnstones durable acrylic, ( "always read the can!"), suggests thinning 1 part water for 4 parts paint for porous surfaces and similarly, crown clean extreme 40% water. So, when manufacturers suggest thinning these top coats for bare plaster, why would you use an alternative bare plaster primer/contract emulsion to wash coat? To be sure, I contacted crown and they confirmed that clean extreme, thinned as recommended, should be used on bare plaster. Im confused Phil?!
Ok Phil, understand your point if cost is that tight 👍🎉. However, some, including manufacturers, seem to now suggest; -contract emulsions should only be used when a quick, breathable decorative coat is needed on semi dry new plaster. -modern acrylic emulsion, correctly thinned, will adhere better to fully dried new plaster, than it will to a chalky contract emulsion mist coat. -no longer use contract paint as mist coat. -modern acrylic over contract emulsion can lead to problems. You will be aware of each of these view points. Are any of them valid? I ask your opinion as it is the one I have come to trust. Many times you have advocated "read the can," "follow manufacturers recommendations," "use the correct system," "price of the paint is a small relative to cost of the job," "only use quality products," "hand in glove" etc. So, in your opinion, what is the BEST way to paint bare plaster? Should contract emulsion mist coat still be used, or, better to apply dedicated primer/top coat thinned to manufacturers recommendation? Nowadays, what's the best way?
Given the millions of apartments which have gone up over the past 20 years, you would think there would be an industry standard by now, and just about everyone would agree on bare plaster skim. Certain channels which PVA the living daylights out of everything excepted of course!
I have a 5x5 meter room to paint. Walls have been plastered, and I've purchased Farrow and Ball primer and paint . Am I good to use a roller to prime the walls ?. . . Forst tie doing this , so looking for advice Many thanks
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator if you’re papering? You said you could use the beeline sealer but then said don’t use gardz. Just wondering why as I thought they did similar things
I just painted a bathroom with permawhite. I used gardz on the bare plaster as zinsser advised . The permawhite can't be diluted for a mist coat, plus the gardz is water resistant
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator oh yeah i know Phil contract paint is crap but youll save a tenner. for paper on new plaster I would use a oil alkali resisting primer
Vinyl matt as a mist/wash coat is fine over a skim if you are going for the same finish. Paint company's will even recommend using thinned acrylics if thats going to be the top coat. It used to be strictly contract matt over plaster, (and I get the reason why), not any more though
@@Lloyd1885 correct always use Matt & no need to buy the expensive either as it's watered down to the consistency of single cream, around 30% water to paint, too watery it runs
Wow 15 minutes about absolute sh.te..iv been miist coating walls with thinned down contractors mat for 25 yrs all off a sudden your advising to use a product from Screwfix that's been around for a cpl off years. What did you use before ???.. boring video this .
It's never been a thing for bare plaster. Were you college trained or who told you to use it? It's not something taught in college.... PVA isn't Alkali resisting..... Bare Plaster is an alkali surface. It's bad enough when paint peels up on you when you roll a ceiling and you know a plasterer has patched something up and gone around the edges priming up before they do their skim up. It's why emulsion is used, as emulsion is alkali resisting.... Hence used as wash coat.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator when I was an apprentice .my boss would lay of solid wall because of high spots that were polished by the plasterer .we called them islands so over the years I discovered this solved the issue learned it from a plasterer when he was putting up covering 4 "1 never let me down used primer sealer here and there ..
sounds like they too were misinformed about the PVA issues then. It's like when people say they've never had any issues putting oil based paint on a bare plaster surface! :eek: again, stuff we learned about at college - saponification.
My dad tried to convince me to use PVA. However, I remembered my upbringing where absolutely any sticky tape on the walls would cause the paint to snap off back to bare plaster. A mist coat for me thank you very much..
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorthere's no pleasing some people is there 🙄.. I appreciate how thoroughly you explain things Phil, it's nice to see a craftsman at work rather than these cowboys on site or Facebook experts I see typing out crap I'm sure they just make up from thin air ...thank you for sharing your skills mate 👍 all the best.
Good to see some basics, many don’t know them
I love the channel painting and decorating two brothers who are third-generation fellas who know their stuff and are meticulous in their approach from prep to finish they use PVA on most applications and I also do without failure. thanks
doing something wrong for a long time doesn't make it correct. As I said, PVA isn't alkali Resisting and thats where the problems come with a surface like bare plaster thats an alakali surface.... stuff I learned at College, not everyone has been there though and I do seem to see a lot more now on the tinternet making stuff up as they go along as 'they've never had any problems'.
Great stuff here. Everyday is a school day here with Phil. Thanks Phil.
Glad you enjoyed it. ;)
great video Phill & information ,
Tnx. I do no try
I never leave the house without a tin of guardz, even when I'm going out on the pull the birds love it
that's what that smell is lol
Brilliantly explained. Understanding the science is what makes a pro........ "Any fool can know, the point is to understand"
He's not explaining a science he's completely contradicting him self.
I’ve been painting 32 years and always used vinyl Matt thinned never had a problem ever In fact I prefer it to Matt and better to lightly rub rather than rubbing Matt down causing too much dust
Here in the netherlands we use waterthin acrylic primer(deep primer) and saturate the surface with it and after drying apply wallpaper or paint.
Good info on this subject
Glad you liked it
Phil your brilliant mate 👏👏👏🏴
Good vid Phil 🤙.. I never use contract paints anymore for mist coating just watered down Johnstone’s cover plus vinyl Matt. .. and there new formulas opacity is truly outstanding 🙌🙌 🦍
Nice one Phil
About time someone explained the basics
The amount of builders painting the full emulsion straight on plaster frustrates the crap out of me
I was advised by F&B to water down their modern emulsion and use that as a mist coat once, then two top coats of finish emulsion.
No tones primer.
Even in a bathroom
I questioned this to death but they were adamant that is what I needed to do
I took photos, even of mixing it up with measured water in case it went wrong
The build was over a million pound and I was told by the project manager that, that is what had to be done
It's been a few years now and so far I haven't heard of any problems, so no idea if it was successful.
It would be interesting if anyone else would phone technical up and ask and see if the same is advised
I won't do that again regardless but my hands were tied by the contractor
Optiva primer all the way for me
If I have a room that was wallpaper over plaster lath, I strip it off, sand with the mirka
Clean down then prime with a watered down 3 in 1 base coat by Dulux
This seals the surface ready for Volden ready mixed filler
Once that has been sanded back, a coat of Optiva primer applied to seal for top coat
It's a system I use all the time on these types of job
It works 100%
Ive F&B tech help line number in my phone... Press #2 to get directed through to on the relevant team lol
Hi Phil,
I have issues with painted wall areas bubbling and blistering frequently. It’s a common occurrence and it’s annoying, frustrating and soul destroying.
Only this last week I encountered those small moon shaped bubbles you described on a huge hallway. I noticed them on the surface of the previously painted walls while on the preparation stage ( I didn’t notice them when I initially looked at the job due to poor lighting), which suggested the previous painter had the same issues. It seems to me the paint was applied undiluted, evidenced by the extremely heavy brush and roller marks. Nevertheless, the extent of the blistering was widespread following the first coat of emulsion I applied.
At this stage, what do you suggest as a solution? In the past I’ve scraped back as much as I can and then applied a coat of coverstain, which seems to provide a stable base. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
As I mentioned earlier, this is a common occurrence and I wonder if it is strictly down to the poor application and quality of the first coat. I wonder, post-2010, when paint manufacturers reduced the solvent contents in paint, if paints actually cure nowadays. Do you remember when you would wipe out a kettle or scuttle bucket at the end of a day’s work and use it again the next day without actually washing out the paint? You can’t do that anymore, as the previous paint is softened by the freshly poured paint, hence the emergence of scuttle bucket liners that are sold at decorators merchants. It can’t all be down to DIYers and non-decorators, can it? ‘If you can piss, you can paint!’ so I’m told.
All the best
Painting for 32 years used to use Permoglaze high opacity first thinned 30 percent then two vinyl matts
Still do it today with crown as Permoglaze has gone
I have a new kitchen to mist coat and finish after. I was going to use Dulux Supermatt watered down 10% for the mist coat through the walls and ceiling. Then a watered down Dulux durable flat Matt tinted in a light tone for the first coat of the ceiling and a further undiluted topcoat.
Then was going to use Crown Clean Extreme for the walls, again a slightly watered down coat followed by top coat.
What do you think?
Hi Phil.
Another really helpful video as I prepare to paint my freshly skimmed walls with FB. Do you have a guide on what brushes to have to hand?
tnx,
for emultion... 2" 3" and 4", brushes from LickPro and Monach.
woodwork, Monarch, arroworth slash cut.. also Nour Heritage
have a look at my product testing vids on brushes
Did you see Greg Wallace Sunday night” Inside the Factory” he was at Farrow and Ball
m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02XXPZ5boxZDadQMNAbGN4WDV5mw1xpxbTLfMwmECqqrX9zamHghdSeax779Sc7Rjbl&id=100089373200373
How about old plaster that's only had cheap wallpaper over it? OK to just plod on? I'm using grey emulsion btw
Hi. Strip it off, clean down the surface and give it a coat of Gardz.
Or re line it. Then Paint
Thanks mate. Will it be a headache if i just go ahead with the emulsion? Kinda stuck for time@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
Hi if you get the bubbles due to a contract paint what do u do to rectify. Sand and apply a primer sealer and then topcoat? ❤
Something like Gardz :)
That tip to fly over with light sandpaper to get plaster splashes off is a great tip. Remember goin over whole rooms with scraper. Never again !
After sanding walls how do you clean them ready for paint - brush off or wipe down with a damp cloth?
I have a mirka thats dustless sanding... but you can dust off or wipe down if you like, but TBH, if you apply a thin wash coat to bare walls you'll collect ay dust in that coat of paint, which you will nid down again when you lightly sand over again before painting with top coats.
if you need to fill, do that after the wash coat.
I like to use Dulux supermatt for new plaster. It covers so well that it looks almost finished after a piss coat.
If it’s just 1 ceiling or something I’ll just piss down the Dulux vinyl matt for a piss coat
Piss Pants
Thanks for this Phil! Great info. Can I use Johnstones Trade Aqua Guard (White) with water 50/50 for a decent mist coat?
I have that paint already! So will save me having to purchase another tin 😊
I wouldn't
Is that David Brent?
Ever tried zinsser 1-2-3 as a mist coat Phil? Got a few litres spare and I’m thinking of trying it as you can use it on plaster according to spec, either that or shall I just do traditional contract Matt thinned down a tad?..
123 is a bit good lol
Contract Matt will be fine, just thin it so it soaks in and not sitting on the surface ;)
@ProfessionalPainterDecorator what ratio? 10/20%? Surely 50/50 is overkill lol
@@AlfGuitar as said in the video... That can be for spraying.. and will depend on what the paint is.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Leyland contract Matt
Wot no pva???? 😂
Im glad you mentioned thinning ratios Phil...so many say 50/50...that will ruin a coat of paint because it breaks down the binder too much, and, especially in the case of cheap retail paint, will be like painting skimmed milk!
50/50 may be a bit too much with some paint... depends what you'll be applying it with.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorI think half an half too much for any paint (maybe with the exception of Dulux supermatt, although even Dulux only recommend 30% for a mist/wash) I've seen decorators suggest two mists as standard because they thin the paint too much
Contract emulsions are used for new build work.
Or Leyland Super Leytex
the standard of new build work is poor due to the low budget set for a whole house paint out... :(
Contract matt is completely pointless.
You can always tell when you’ve made it as a decorator when you can handle 4 inches without thinking about it 😂
Phil, thanks for a great video. I'm in the US and recently purchased a home built in 1930 with plaster walls. I'm undecided if I'll tackle the paint job myself or hire a professional. In either case, I'd like to understand the process of painting over plaster. Is a wash coat preferred over existing painted plaster?
glad to have you on board :)
wash coat, mist coat, miss coat.. what ever you call it, is a thinned down coat of emulsion/paint that goes over bare plaster.
other bare surfaces, you'll thin a paint down to help it soak in, then you can fill/caulk etc and then start your chosen paint system.
PRIME - UC - TopCoat (many times two coats)
If going over previously painted surfaces, you don't need a wash coat.
You may need to ease your paint if it feels a bit hard to apply, this is due to the fact you don't know how porous a surface is and it will take the moisture out of the paint you are applying. Thinning it slightly wil help you get it on. once it's on, then next coat should go on fine.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thank you, Phil. Ill let you know how everything works out.
Can you use zinsser bin to prime bare plaster ? Got spare tin and need to do where taken couple rads of (plastered over 10 years ago)
Hi, I wouldn't do, it's not really for bare plaster and wouldn't be easy to apply.
Could you use a contract matt instead on old plaster then?@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
I done a full renovation every wall replaced,mistcoated new plaster myself and paid a decorator to paint where he had a time covering patches showing from the mistcoat.He said 40yr in trade you use the matt straight out tin and he has never had an issue. You waste paint and money watering it down.
After my experience using youtube to make my mistcoat i agree with him.
Why's that?
Phil could u please answer, ive just brought a gaff, god knows what paint is in each room, probably a load of shit on walls etc, if in doubt is it a good shout to just bite the bullet and do a coat of gardzs on all the walls and ceilings prior to doing the whole place in durable matt (johnstones trade) cant be assed with any issues and the cost/time for me to do a coat of gardzs isnt a big issue. Or if u feel another product is a better shout to use ill go with that before the duarlable matt goes on, always enjoy ur videos, cheers
yes, a good idea,
OR check out the video I did on the Beeline primer/sealer.... that you thin down and apply prior to painting and is very similar to gardz
Thanks for the reply buddy, just watched the beeline video and looked up the product aswell, as u said on the video its brush only, and tbh there's way too many rooms for me to ass about with a 3 or 4 inch brush, so I'll fly round with the gardzs and a roller, keep up the good work mate and thanks again for the reply 👍
Personally I stay completely clear of contract matt, it can affect durable top coats. So I always prime with acrylic primer get 20L tins for £60
Hi , where do you get the 20 litre tins of acrylic ??
@@charlesfalconer6231 UK paint
COULDN'T AGREE MORE!
Hi Phil, thanks for this video, it's very timely as I have a load of bare plaster to paint! They don't seem to sell Screwfix No Nonsense Trade Bare Plaster Paint any more, and instead Screwfix sells Fortress Trade Matt Emulsion Bare Plaster Paint. Have you had any experience with the Fortress paint for painting bare plaster? I'm torn between the Fortress paint vs watered down contract matt. I'm looking for the most idiot proof way :)
Hi. I think Screwfix are have a change of supplier as a few no nonsense products have disappeared.
The fortress bare plaster paint will be fine... Read the back. It may still need a bit of water in it to help it go on easier for you.
Contract Matt is still fine, just thin it enough to soak in well.
Remember. A wash/mist coat isn't there for opacity obligation of the surface
Thanks@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorthat's great. Seems like I can't go wrong really. I'll go for the ready-mixed stuff as there seems to be less chance of me cocking it up, and will water down if needed as per whatever it says on the back. Thanks again 👍
Ooops my boyfriend just used Dulux standard white emulsion thinned. Hope it’s ok???
you'll be ok
I got the same bit sandpaper for 6 years never use it my Finnish looks like artex
Hi Phil, johnstones durable acrylic, ( "always read the can!"), suggests thinning 1 part water for 4 parts paint for porous surfaces and similarly, crown clean extreme 40% water. So, when manufacturers suggest thinning these top coats for bare plaster, why would you use an alternative bare plaster primer/contract emulsion to wash coat? To be sure, I contacted crown and they confirmed that clean extreme, thinned as recommended, should be used on bare plaster.
Im confused Phil?!
There's no point paying for a durable Matt paint to be thinned down and used as a wash coat
But... The option is there if you do want to do it.
Ok Phil, understand your point if cost is that tight 👍🎉. However, some, including manufacturers, seem to now suggest;
-contract emulsions should only be used when a quick, breathable decorative coat is needed on semi dry new plaster.
-modern acrylic emulsion, correctly thinned, will adhere better to fully dried new plaster, than it will to a chalky contract emulsion mist coat.
-no longer use contract paint as mist coat.
-modern acrylic over contract emulsion can lead to problems.
You will be aware of each of these view points. Are any of them valid? I ask your opinion as it is the one I have come to trust.
Many times you have advocated "read the can," "follow manufacturers recommendations," "use the correct system," "price of the paint is a small relative to cost of the job," "only use quality products," "hand in glove" etc.
So, in your opinion, what is the BEST way to paint bare plaster? Should contract emulsion mist coat still be used, or, better to apply dedicated primer/top coat thinned to manufacturers recommendation? Nowadays, what's the best way?
@@stevehinson4957 I've not used contract Matt emulsion for years since Optiva Primer and more dedicated primers are available.
Thanks Phil, appreciate your time🙏
Should have kept this under your hat. I get so many jobs courtesy of builders not priming walls properly 😂
Do you rate Armstead contract Matt ?
For what use?
For Mist coating new plaster
@@peterhamilton967 course you can. Thin it down. But as I said in the video it's a false opacity paint and will soften back up when it gets wet.
Optiva primer 😎
we like that
Given the millions of apartments which have gone up over the past 20 years, you would think there would be an industry standard by now, and just about everyone would agree on bare plaster skim.
Certain channels which PVA the living daylights out of everything excepted of course!
9k subscribers 🤩 not long now till the picasso,classic and Rembrandt giveaway for 10k 😍
Someone better get in touch and send me a load then lol
I have a 5x5 meter room to paint. Walls have been plastered, and I've purchased Farrow and Ball primer and paint .
Am I good to use a roller to prime the walls ?. . . Forst tie doing this , so looking for advice
Many thanks
Yes. If you've got the ceiling and walls primer from F&B you'll be fine. You may need to thin it to help application on the new plaster
@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate that. Yes, I have the primer and enough paint for two coats
Why not use gardz out of interest?
You don't need Gardz on new plaster surfaces.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator if you’re papering? You said you could use the beeline sealer but then said don’t use gardz. Just wondering why as I thought they did similar things
new plaster, there's no need to use gardz, papering or even painting.
I just painted a bathroom with permawhite. I used gardz on the bare plaster as zinsser advised . The permawhite can't be diluted for a mist coat, plus the gardz is water resistant
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I just find it easier that knocking up size when lining on to bare plaster
Jesus get on with it im fallin sleep
Tiktoc for you at night then lol
should have got leyland or armstead phil could have saved yourself a tenner
contract paint?
😅😅
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yeah contract paint
@@jackwardley3626 lol and what did I say in the video about cheap contract Matt lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator oh yeah i know Phil contract paint is crap but youll save a tenner. for paper on new plaster I would use a oil alkali resisting primer
Isomat 2 in 1
lets not confuse people too soon
Maxvac for painting the plaster?Total overkill Phil
Gotta earn it's keep
Why is it overkill ?
Dapper Dan Man
is that a good or a bad thing?
Woodchip it all
Ancient Egyptian tip No.87 Never use Vinyl matt on newly fresh plaster.
Vinyl matt as a mist/wash coat is fine over a skim if you are going for the same finish.
Paint company's will even recommend using thinned acrylics if thats going to be the top coat.
It used to be strictly contract matt over plaster, (and I get the reason why), not any more though
@@Lloyd1885 correct always use Matt & no need to buy the expensive either as it's watered down to the consistency of single cream, around 30% water to paint, too watery it runs
Coat of pish
Just zip over it with the mirka. Pointless sanding mist coat.
That plaster still looks wet
It was dry, it was only a skim over insulation plaster boards
Jeezz, hope his not on day rate, what a bore.
No one makes money on day rate
No but it’s easy money no rushing about just do a good job in your own time it suits me anyway just saying
@@Ramblingpete you set your limit on day rate and capped your earning potential.
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@@Ramblingpete yeah, meant to say he's on day rate, couldn't waffle like that on price
Bash it
Wow 15 minutes about absolute sh.te..iv been miist coating walls with thinned down contractors mat for 25 yrs all off a sudden your advising to use a product from Screwfix that's been around for a cpl off years. What did you use before ???.. boring video this .
You watched all of it then
I don't think its shit, great info not all people no. Keep the videos coming Phil.
Look at the fat coming through the paint
Fat?
Get on with it mate! Falling asleep
Thanks for letting it still play
There's a fast forward or off button. You're welcome.
It's called a mist coat not washed coat 😂
And the difference is............
Only 400 videos what have you been doing with yourself lol 🤪
Clearly having no life
So you have your Porsche 924 now then
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
Been using pva for 40 years no bubbles no issues now pva is a dirty word .
It's never been a thing for bare plaster.
Were you college trained or who told you to use it?
It's not something taught in college.... PVA isn't Alkali resisting..... Bare Plaster is an alkali surface.
It's bad enough when paint peels up on you when you roll a ceiling and you know a plasterer has patched something up and gone around the edges priming up before they do their skim up.
It's why emulsion is used, as emulsion is alkali resisting.... Hence used as wash coat.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator when I was an apprentice .my boss would lay of solid wall because of high spots that were polished by the plasterer .we called them islands so over the years I discovered this solved the issue learned it from a plasterer when he was putting up covering 4 "1 never let me down used primer sealer here and there ..
sounds like they too were misinformed about the PVA issues then.
It's like when people say they've never had any issues putting oil based paint on a bare plaster surface! :eek:
again, stuff we learned about at college - saponification.
My dad tried to convince me to use PVA. However, I remembered my upbringing where absolutely any sticky tape on the walls would cause the paint to snap off back to bare plaster. A mist coat for me thank you very much..
By god he talks to much
Thanks for watching
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorthere's no pleasing some people is there 🙄.. I appreciate how thoroughly you explain things Phil, it's nice to see a craftsman at work rather than these cowboys on site or Facebook experts I see typing out crap I'm sure they just make up from thin air ...thank you for sharing your skills mate 👍 all the best.