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I wanted my artex gone, i plastered it, I'm not a plasterer, it was terrible so i decided to scrape it off, the water in the plaster had soaked through the emulsion into the artex and it all scraped off revealing a nice flat ceiling. It cost me about 6 quid for a bag of plaster and four hours work.

Hi Phil im looking for some advice if that's ok , i recently lining papered a small bedroom with wall rock paper . Before i emulsioned it i run over some of the but joints with a very tight skim of polycell smooth surface filler , after applying two coats of emulsion and letting it completely dry the vertical fill joints are showing through . Any advice on how I can fix this would be greatly appreciated .👍

F&B seem to have a period paint philosophy in a modern world. They also started as a retail "sell the dream" company before approaching the trade where some demand 10000 scrubs and one coat coverage or paint is deemed rubbish. it's a big ask to square that circle. Little Greene probably did a better job of the dream/ trade balance but no doubt their chemists faced the same decisions as Farrow and Balls lot and made different compromises. Personally I didnt have problems with F&B paint coverage back in the day. The flat oil was beyond fine for a wallpaint finish once you had a solid base. The switch after 2010 produced issues probably because we cleverclogs kept using our preferred undercoats instead of sticking to the FB spec. Read the tin, one of your best tips😂

Consider a trip to Farbe in Germany before you die. The biggest paint show on earth. Mind blowing products and puts everything you know in perspective. From this video, the UK is well served with paint tech, and firms like Farrow and Ball are few and far between on the continent. On the other hand, French equivalent of B&Q carry more specialist fillers from Beissier for instance than probably even yer msn from Beissier has in UK. If you go to Farbe you will see that the high end trade in Germany is a big jump in philosophy. Painters are a top tier profession not "just a subby painta". Never hurts to find another bar to aim for. Most stands there speak English which helps

Love your channel please can you tell me the colour of green paint 😁

There’s another so called painter and decorator on TH-cam who is obsessed with PVA. Uses it on everything,especially prior to painting His comment section has regularly got folk telling him otherwise

use proper adhesive or dot and dab a lot better and cheaper and you can fill as you go no nails needed and no extra filling wipe with sponge i used to put a coat of acrylic primer on all the length's before putting it up I've probably put a couple of thousand boxes of that stuff

Hi Phil great video Iv got a small bedroom ceiling which has artex very similar to what you have in your video and I’m thinking of using this product myself my question is do you recommend I use zinsser gardz on the ceiling before i skim it over thanks Ray

You mentioned not being sure what paper FandB are using..Reminded me that hanging non woven and tub paste over pulp lining paper pasted with solvite used to create an issue with the top paper. I'm from way back. The reverse wasnt an issue I suppose because the backing paper is stable? Are there any rules of thumb changes or advance in the technicals for speccing papering jobs? With the pattern questions, it seems that designers sre still the tail wagging the dog😅

Chalk problems solved…. Sometimes you run out of chalk and you just have to get what you can from a local store. If you do get some cracking along the chalked edges just let it dry and then run over it with oil based undercoat and when that’s dry you can Emulsion two coats over the top and problem is solved..hope this helps those in a fix..Even Better Tip…Always buy your chalk in bulk 👍

Great job with the thumbnail. But that tin of peel stop is not big enough for this job….

have you used a pressure pot sprayer used to use them a lot doing porta fleck don't think I've seen it in years

In the old days the final plaster coat had to be applied quickley before going off, the job for a real professional. This system looks like a great fix.

Sniffin’ me bristle.

Isn’t this just roll on and smoothed out Artex?

Isn’t that just smoothed out Artex?

Hi phil. I took my old wallpaper off because it was too thick and had patterns. Theres some flakey paint and uneven walls so i patched them up with filler after i took the wallpaper off. I wanted to put plain wallpaper back on and then paint on the wallpaper. Which one do i use for the flakey paint and after i filled the gaps with filler? Gardz or peel stop. Thanks 😊

Thank you, I was wondering what to do

Cracking idea that 🫡💫

used that in acrylic airbrush paint for years before i ever seen it in out for all this water based crap you can used windolene and isopropyl alcohol as well

I've used a fair few painter-decorators. I live in Herts. Here it's £250-300 day. That would definitely cost at least 1k and that would be the cheaper side.

Seems like alot of work, compared to plastering, wall would be done in two hours perfectly with no sanding, just paint,with multi finish

.hate paper with big match in small rooms look odd to me but i don't have to look at it once its up but i don't like wallpaper my self id rather design my own

pull your plugs mate

By the time you've had 2 goes over 2 days then sanded it . Might as well have skimmed it . Just sayin

What an utter palava. All that faffing and not a close enough seal.

Use the grease that’s on top of the cupboards to hold sheets up 😂. These look better than that option though

Where are these from please Phil?

Thanks foe letting Darren tell us about it, much easier for all. 👍

Thanks foe letting Darren tell us about it, much easier for all. 👍

i use market stall clamps we had to use the plastic to cover your self if it was insurance and photo everything some customers would try it on

Watching this vid as bought some today to spray some units I have made for a boot room made from ply I do make a lot from mdf what’s best in your opinion for spraying mdf Liking Alcoat as undercoat as I can revolt so quick Cheers

But what if the walls are actually bad to start with will it work?

Good bit o gear👌 Worth a try and a good investment,plus the eco side of it

oil-based paint can fade when exposed to UV light, particularly when exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods, as the ultraviolet rays break down the chemical bonds in the paint pigments, causing color loss; this is why oil paints used outdoors are susceptible to fading over time.

I did find it a bit of a rough texture I think that's how they've achieved such a flat finish

We were taught to pour from the front of the tin because the back has the health and safety information on it. I don't really mind which way because I keep the tin clean anyway

Thanks again Phil for a great Vid! Phil did mention in the Vid, it does go on walls as well. And we have other sheen levels, Low Sheen, Satin and Gloss. We have the Touchgard semi-gloss we are currently working on for Phil. We currently have the satin version. The Semi-Gloss version seen in a previous vid is for woodwork that has frequent hand touching that other paints will soften and pick up dirt and look bad in a very short time. DGH Manufacturing (as seen in a another of Phil's vids) is a small manufacturing company based in Bicester. We manufacture small batches of very high-quality paint for the internal decorative market with the Hanford and Green brand name and external masonry coatings and roofing under the Andura trade name. We are not a faceless international company manufacturing 50,000lt batches of low quality products with the aim to sell high volumes on the cheap. Our paints are mostly sold to professional contractors who paint the insides of hotels (including the Savoy in London etc) and office buildings and the outside with texture coatings and coatings that will cope with cracking due to subsidence. Yes we are aware our products are a little more expensive that you average. But as we deal with professional contractors, we know the paint we supply is a small part of the expense after you factor in man hours and other expenses. Hotels like our decorative products as the are low odour and have fast drying time. So the Hotel can have the rooms painted in the quickest times and not have the early customers complaining of strong smells. These paints are based on high quality acrylic paints with excellent scrub, stain and marking resistance. And Phil has given his comments on how well they apply and give good opacity, flow and levelling etc. Don’t think about the price on the tin but how much you and your customers will like the overall finish and want you to do other work and pass on good comments about you to others. As a special offer we are going to offer a PHIL BECKWITH DISCOUNT if you have never ordered from us. Mention you saw one of Phils videos to get the discount on your first order. The details on the discount is being discussed with my colleagues at the moment. Give us a try and I am sure you will love the paint and want to order more! 😀

What a useless product, cost you a fortune in product and time.

get a box of dry wall screws and screw the board to the stud not enough screws and looks like a cowboy job

use gun grade its a lot better than that crap diy shit

the only thing pva is good for in decorating is putting in paste to give a better grip on crap walls people will not pay to plaster and seal crap walls

UPDATE: For anyone finding this, you can buy Scuff X in 1L tins now (well, 0.94L which is a US quart)

That one can, apart from the name, looks the business. Talking of business, is this the same Bradite paint company that changed the face of the UK paint industry in the early 2000's? If so, their tech department was in a league of their own and their product lines made monkeys out of the UK's best known trade paint cos around the time of the 2010 EU VOC paint regs changes. They also know their history, that oil eggshell was a wall finish adopted in modern times for woodwork. And history has gone full circle so we now seem to have eggshell with much added tech, and we don't have to stipple it to remove brush marks no more.

Loving the channel! Question: I know you said you'd caulk the scribed edges but do you also caulk the internal joins e.g. where shelves meet the side and back panels, after you prime but before top coats?

Huge thanks for ur time doing this vid. Thanks to You I saved some money 🫡

depends some has loads of waste and people thing you should use every bit of paper when they see all the waste in the box quite a lot come off the roll with the obvious repeat in the rightish place

Shame you purchased this product when you could have uesd knotting which is so much cheaper and permanent,probably the best sealer primer that was ever invented. Sometimes the old ways are the best,tried and trusted.

Very interesting did you seal the wall prior?