I just used these 2 videos fixing my 2001 F150 supercrew, 5.4L. It was my #3 plug that popped. I didn't go all the way and replace the insert, but used this technique to re thread the insert. I kept vacuuming it out best I could, and testing the new plug fit about a half dozen times. The sparkplug tightened up, and I installed new coil and boot. Time will tell if this works for now, but at least I have the right tool to get in there. Thanks for the video.
First thank you very much fantastic video learned a lot from you One thing that might help, they sell real long q tips for cleaning AR-15 rifles gas port Maybe slightly bend the end of the one of these q-tips and stick it down there and get the edge of the whole cleaned up, after pulling out each time to clean tool Little grease on q-tips
Great procedure dear sir. This is very helpful if you are doing the procedure head on the engine without dis-assembly. Your procedure is rock solid. Hope the next part will be more interesting as this one and previous one was. Please keep up videos dear sir.
I recently bought a 1998 F150 with the 4.6. If I knew about this problem I never would have touched it. When one fails you only have seven more to worry about. Always liked Fords but this sort of problem is crazy stupid. I have been driving over 50 years and this sort of thing was never an issue in the past. Thanks for the video, trying to be prepared.
This is exactly how I was taught how to drill and tap anything. I had to do this on my 4.6 Ford F-150. Afterwards I rigged up a 1/4 inch hose to my shop vac. I vacuumed the whole cylinder and the top of the piston. Then I used my bore scope to verify that there wasn’t much of anything as far as shavings. 48000 miles later it’s still going.
Great video, very professional!! yes, i see what you are talking about there!! at 13:30 mins , i got real tense watching all those shavings, staying in the cylinder. So yes, you have to remove the HEAD TO THE BENCH! point made, very good video, I will be talking my 2005 fatboy twin cam motor heads OFF the bike!! ty again!!
Great video and idea on using grease to catch the shavings. Luckily I haven't had a blow spark plug whole but if I ever do I will remember and use this technique. Thanks a lot....
I dropped a screw down my spark hole while changing plugs one time. I did not know what to do it was a new jeep. I thought a while and disconnected the coil wire and left the spark plug hole open. I cranked the engine over real slow and thank God it blew the screw out of the spark plug hole. Oh what a relief it was all that compression power push it out of the hole.
Wow try magnet next time or sticky putty on a screwdriver. U got lucky to not slap the head or a valve and break something. Glad it worked tho, that's always my biggest fear and also why I never open all 8 when changing plugs. I only do 1 at a time
You could, using compressed air, pressurize the cylinder through the exhaust or intake. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is well below the cutting tool, in whichever stroke corresponds to the the valve you would be using . Great video! Thank you
Question, if you're doing this without removing cyl head, don't you have to make sure piston is NOT at very top of stroke? So when tool is finishing lowest cut, it does not damage top of piston? I'd be interested to see a straight edge across the head when taping tool is fully inserted into threads..
I enjoyed watching this video, even though I don't own a Ford. I noticed that the shavings that did fall through usually happened on the 5th turn. Perhaps if you only make 3-4 turns before withdrawal and cleaning, it would eliminate any shavings falling through? Would make the job longer and more tedious but an extra 15 minutes wouldn't be a big deal if you could insure no shavings got through. Just a thought. Thanks for the video.
I agree. For the benefit it provides, and the possible consequences for not doing it -- I would go until it gets tight and then only go 1/2 turn more at most. -- An extra hour or two would not be bad compared to having to take the head off.
Some shavings are inevitable and it only takes one to cause scratching on the cyl wall, I wonder about feeding a rubber hose in that just fits, and the other end of the hose attached to a shop vac and "probing" the rubber hose up and down and around in the cyl to vacuum any shavings.
That's what I've always done but that far down u cant possibly make the hose go all the way in all directions to reach outer wall, u can only cover about the center 2 inches. I will use his method, plus air, plus vacuum next time. Best video on this topic imo
Thanks for the video, your method seems very effective...How about a brake line/small hose attached to a shop vac? Do you think the grease might hold the few remaining pieces in the cyl when performing the final blow out with air? How about starting the job with the piston up closer to TDC so there is less volume to fill with your air so you get a higher blow out pressure?
Dry shavings are easily blown or vacuumed away, greasy shavings will stick inside the cylinder and cause damage. I guess there are always pros and cons to any repair technique
I will sure take my chances with grease after seeing this! How could one possibly think air blowing down a hole will ever get out what he had in the 1st pan. And a vacuum is great and what I used last time, but u can only get a small tube to go so far in all directions once in that 3 in hole!! No way u can reach the outer edges(where the rings are lol) my next one, I will definitely use this method with air and then a vacuum. That's the complete fix. Also, the cyl I did with just air and vacuum now has 20% pressure loss which i suspect is bc there was a shaving or 2 i couldn't get to with the vacuum. His method is slower but is best I've ever seen!
@@p71collector30 3:24 watch a big chunk falling, also the cylinder head is on its side, if this was a conventional 4 cyl the head would be horizontal, and even more stuff would fall down. The only way to be sure of a job like this is to take the head off the engine, and do it on a bench.
Have not watched entire video so if this is addressed my apologies...but how about simply using a shopvac (with an adaptor - e.g. piece of tubing) to vacuum out cylinder head? Also use a boroscope to ensure most/all shavings are removed??
At 18:45 you mention that the blow gun shaft needs to be much smaller than the plug hole, and I agree. I'd also make sure the exhaust valve was open fully to allow another exit point. You'd need to ensure the crank doesn't spin because the piston could be affected by whatever small amount of pressure you're causing as well. Great video.
so...in shop class in high school (yes I'm that old) we used to fill cylinder with shaving cream---the cream caught the scarf and shavings--drill and tap--and then crank engine afterwards. cranking would squirt the shaving cream with the shavings out the spark plug hole...then clean out with a little gasoline and air--or brake cleaner. usually it would be totally clan. Anyway great video---nice showing both methods and amount of "scarf"
@@realfixesrealfast I was thinking what if you blew air into the exhaust and rolled the engine around until the exhaust valve for that cylinder opened. Then you'd have airflow pushing the chips out as you went
@@cindytepper8878 could possibly work and sure worth a try, but the resistance along that path would really reduce the force of the air and probably not be very through
I bought a 2005 Mercury sable. . My ? Is that one of the spark plug housing is modafied., With a extended adapter on it witch it doesn't seem to go all the way down into the block. Will it past snog the way it done.
thinking that the more times you run the tap tool in and out with a ratchet the larger the new hole gets. next grease contaminates the threads. Is that not an issue ?
Have you ever tried a shop vac and a clear tube to get the metal out of the cylinder it works good but you do need a bore scope to make sure you get it all.
Fantastic...Upon trying this I find the need for the limited access version of this tool with hole for drive instead of using a socket witch will not fit into plug well. Any idea where to get one? THANKS
As a precision mechanic I would hand thread it in to prevent cross threading as a safe measure then proceed with further cutting, then on the taking out part back it out slowly and again hand remove the tool
Other Issue in this Video is the Cylinder is on its side, when your motor is on, Gravity plays a big part and there is a difference to the shavings coming out being on the side to totally straight down into the motor
+Cooll Asice You have a keen eye. You must have been watching my videos for quite awhile now. Yes, it is my home garage. Our business has grown to the point that we are running out of room. In fact, it's very hard for me to make videos in our shop now because it disrupts the flow of work too much. So I'm shifting things around a bit.
+realfixesrealfast It's no surprise that your business is expanding. Everyone watching your videos can see the quality work that you do, and the word is spreading.
I had one blow out and a so called certified mechanic cracked the cylinder wall no. 3 on a 4.6. It had a like 2 or 3 inch long crack in the cylinder wall. Not sure why so much damage, had to have left all shaving in the cylinder. He also shorted out the coil so i would think it was why it was missing.
Ques. Need help. 1st thanks for sharing your knowledge on you tube. I am a disabled vet and not working. Which includes numbing and pain in my hands. Yes its hard but, enough of that. My 2004 GMC yukon had the spark plug blow out problem. I doing this myself because I cannot afford a mechanic. Your instructions are clear and to the point which I appreciate. My issue is that the GMC spark plugs inlets are not visible at all. You are inserting your threading tool blindly. As per your instructions I give it a couple of turns and then remove the threader, clean it, add more grease and con't. However, after 4x on the smaller diameter threads, I feel as though I am not getting any deeper. It feels as though I am at the same spot. Am I doing something wrong? help. thanks.
You are correct, it is very much a "blind" repair. Unfortunately the hole that the sport plug goes into is not very big. I understand your frustration. Here is what I would say to do. Put the piston at top dead center, then back it down 1/2 turn. The as you screw the tool into the damaged hole, it should be hard to turn at first, but when you actually break thru you should feel a definite ease in turning pressure. With the piston placed this way you should not risk it falling into the cylinder. Good luck.
@@realfixesrealfast Thanks for the tip. I actually started working on it prior to me sending you the initial message but, decided to stop and ask. So far so good. Will do & let you know the out come. You would get a kick out of me working on my Yukon. 5'2, still wear my fatigue pants & all you see are to short legs sticking out of the hood. Yikes! Where there is a will there is a way!
you sound like me now. I had a stroke a year and a half ago. I'm working hard on recovering and I keep trying to do things like I used to do. Whenever I have to get down and crawl under a vehicle it looks like I'm part worm, ha ha. So I understand what your going thru.@@laureanog1
What if you just hook your air hose up to your intake for that cylinder, make sure the intake valve is wide open, and then have constant compressed air running into the cylinder to blow all the shavings up and out through the grooves while cutting?
cherrywhite1928 Match the insert to the plug reach. Just simply screw it in. A Big-sert is MUCH better. Those inserts on the video can pop out! They can work sometimes. A Big-sert locks in. Remove inserts with a E-Z out. Tighten the plug lightly until the sealer dries and then remove the plug. Give the sealer plenty of time to dry. The swaging tool might not expand enough and cause the insert to come out. You might not have enough swing on the hammer. Big-serts would be better!
Robert Fryer Yes. But keep removing and replacing the insert to clean off shavings. It's very important to keep doing that to avoid shavings. Big-serts are much better in that it locks in. The Big-sert tool locks the insert permanently. Use an E-Z out to remove inserts.
If you turn your crank to where you are are the exhaust stroke for that cylinder (exhaust valve open), then hook your vacuum to the exhaust pipe, the vacuum will go to that cylinder, THEN, blow down the Spark Plug hole with compressed air, any debris will get pulled out the exhaust. It’s much better off there, than in the cylinder. Someone will say…”What if it gets caught in the valve seat?” Well, guess what? That’s where it’s going if you don’t get it out of the cylinder in the first place!
Ok ... I have to say it... the grease technique is not new... it has been around for a VERY long time... maybe you just found out about it. Short and simple... put cylinder to be repaired to TDC... then back it down a bit so you don't damage the piston with the threading tool. NO need to pre drill the hole... the smaller threads on the tool need something to bite on when being started down the hole... that's what they are there for. Load your threading tool with grease in all the shaving channels and threads and start threading away. No more than 4 cranks at a time as your threading in, at the forth crank back the tool out and clean the shavings off along with the grease. Reapply the grease and repeat process until you are through. Once through inspect the cylinder for any shavings ... they will be shiny. Take a swap and clean the cylinder threads of grease and shavings.... spray some brake cleaner into the cylinder and blow it out with an air tool.... do this a couple of times to ensure a proper cleaning. If you have an inspection snake run it down the cylinder to see if there are any shavings still in there. Do your best to clean them out... once done then thread in the new thread coil as shown..
+soloM81 sure, that could work. And I've done that before I figured out this way to do it. However, in the cylinder there is an area where the rings fit that can trap shavings and a vacuum won't pull them out. Then as soon as the piston moves it can scar the cylinder wall. I prefer to avoid the shavings in the first place
I do that but his way is better. Small tube cannot reach all way out to edges. Use his method along with air and then vacuum. All 3 together is the best guarantee
To do this correctly you have to take the heads off. Leave on shaving in the cylinder and you will have pissed off customer and you know were that goes.
''WOW'' SO WHAT WAS THE GREAT SECRETE ??? YOU MADE IT SOUND LIKE USEING GREASE AND COMPRESED AIR WAS'NT THE RIGHT WAY !!! YOU DID MAKE A VERY GOOD VIDEO ,BUT IT WAS FOR SOME ONE WHOSE HAS NEVER DONE IT BEFORE.
Why not get a degree wheel and turn the engine till the exhaust valve is open with that piston is at the top and blow all that shit out into the exhaust manofold.???????
Done several this way and no problem. The minute shaving dust left won't effect the valve seat. (JUST DUST). Always check cylinder with camera down the cylinder before I start the engine.
Should have bought a Honda!! The same engineers who made the mistake still work at Ford and were promoted! The best way to get no shavings in the cylinder is to drive it to the nearest scrap yard and have it crushed!!
With the technology the young mechanics have nowadays, they should learn all these moves not the way they think shop knowledge is, taking your time is the way, not the monkey way....
![โรงเรียนห้ามรัก โดนจับได้ตาย...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4u02Sbr556Q/mqdefault.jpg)
This man is very well endowed. Great video
Taking your time and being patient is the key here. Nice demonstration in the video
i tried to magnatize the tap first ( ha ha)
Truly a good learning experience. Patience is key. Slow and steady always.
I'm glad you took your time and did a good job. the sign of a GOOD Mechanic. Vital!
Brilliant demonstration and a ‘proper’ instructional video, Thank you 👍
It's for sure that you have the best repair videos out there.
I just used these 2 videos fixing my 2001 F150 supercrew, 5.4L. It was my #3 plug that popped. I didn't go all the way and replace the insert, but used this technique to re thread the insert. I kept vacuuming it out best I could, and testing the new plug fit about a half dozen times. The sparkplug tightened up, and I installed new coil and boot. Time will tell if this works for now, but at least I have the right tool to get in there. Thanks for the video.
First thank you very much fantastic video learned a lot from you
One thing that might help, they sell real long q tips for cleaning AR-15 rifles gas port
Maybe slightly bend the end of the one of these q-tips and stick it down there and get the edge of the whole cleaned up, after pulling out each time to clean tool
Little grease on q-tips
Great procedure dear sir. This is very helpful if you are doing the procedure head on the engine without dis-assembly. Your procedure is rock solid. Hope the next part will be more interesting as this one and previous one was. Please keep up videos dear sir.
I recently bought a 1998 F150 with the 4.6. If I knew about this problem I never would have touched it. When one fails you only have seven more to worry about. Always liked Fords but this sort of problem is crazy stupid. I have been driving over 50 years and this sort of thing was never an issue in the past. Thanks for the video, trying to be prepared.
This is exactly how I was taught how to drill and tap anything. I had to do this on my 4.6 Ford F-150. Afterwards I rigged up a 1/4 inch hose to my shop vac. I vacuumed the whole cylinder and the top of the piston. Then I used my bore scope to verify that there wasn’t much of anything as far as shavings. 48000 miles later it’s still going.
yes, brother you did the CORRECT method...100 percent!
Great video, very professional!! yes, i see what you are talking about there!! at 13:30 mins , i got real tense watching all those shavings, staying in the cylinder. So yes, you have to remove the HEAD TO THE BENCH! point made, very good video, I will be talking my 2005 fatboy twin cam motor heads OFF the bike!! ty again!!
Common sense easy and best way to make this procedure work best to eliminate shaving Thanks great idea.
It is nice to see your back making videos.
Great video and idea on using grease to catch the shavings. Luckily I haven't had a blow spark plug whole but if I ever do I will remember and use this technique. Thanks a lot....
I just dunked the whole reamer into grease tub every time and it worked great 👍
I dropped a screw down my spark hole while changing plugs one time. I did not know what to do it was a new jeep. I thought a while and disconnected the coil wire and left the spark plug hole open. I cranked the engine over real slow and thank God it blew the screw out of the spark plug hole. Oh what a relief it was all that compression power push it out of the hole.
uuuhhhh dummy shouldn't have been messing with anything else while dealing with spark plugs.....dumb dumb want gum gum
Wow try magnet next time or sticky putty on a screwdriver. U got lucky to not slap the head or a valve and break something. Glad it worked tho, that's always my biggest fear and also why I never open all 8 when changing plugs. I only do 1 at a time
Oh sh!7!!!
That's a horror story🥶
Idk why there are 39 dislikes, this guy is showing is something important, you guys knew it was a three part video so get over it
Thank you for being so thorough!
You could, using compressed air, pressurize the cylinder through the exhaust or intake. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is well below the cutting tool, in whichever stroke corresponds to the the valve you would be using . Great video! Thank you
thanks for adding you comments
Question, if you're doing this without removing cyl head, don't you have to make sure piston is NOT at very top of stroke? So when tool is finishing lowest cut, it does not damage top of piston? I'd be interested to see a straight edge across the head when taping tool is fully inserted into threads..
GREAT demonstration!
pretty awesome difference between doing it dry or all in one pass. Good technique, wasn't expecting to see zero visible shavings in the pan.
I enjoyed watching this video, even though I don't own a Ford. I noticed that the shavings that did fall through usually happened on the 5th turn. Perhaps if you only make 3-4 turns before withdrawal and cleaning, it would eliminate any shavings falling through? Would make the job longer and more tedious but an extra 15 minutes wouldn't be a big deal if you could insure no shavings got through. Just a thought. Thanks for the video.
I agree. For the benefit it provides, and the possible consequences for not doing it -- I would go until it gets tight and then only go 1/2 turn more at most. -- An extra hour or two would not be bad compared to having to take the head off.
Some shavings are inevitable and it only takes one to cause scratching on the cyl wall, I wonder about feeding a rubber hose in that just fits, and the other end of the hose attached to a shop vac and "probing" the rubber hose up and down and around in the cyl to vacuum any shavings.
Victorian Sculptures no a bad idea
Very good thinking, exactly that way and that name is situational awareness....😀👍
That's what I've always done but that far down u cant possibly make the hose go all the way in all directions to reach outer wall, u can only cover about the center 2 inches. I will use his method, plus air, plus vacuum next time. Best video on this topic imo
Thanks for the video, your method seems very effective...How about a brake line/small hose attached to a shop vac? Do you think the grease might hold the few remaining pieces in the cyl when performing the final blow out with air? How about starting the job with the piston up closer to TDC so there is less volume to fill with your air so you get a higher blow out pressure?
Also if the Piston is at TDC, the valves will be shot so you don't have to worry about the shavings blowing up into the intake.
Dry shavings are easily blown or vacuumed away, greasy shavings will stick inside the cylinder and cause damage. I guess there are always pros and cons to any repair technique
just what i was thinking now he have half the metal parts but they are sticky and wont go into a vacum cleaner or blowed out
I will sure take my chances with grease after seeing this! How could one possibly think air blowing down a hole will ever get out what he had in the 1st pan. And a vacuum is great and what I used last time, but u can only get a small tube to go so far in all directions once in that 3 in hole!! No way u can reach the outer edges(where the rings are lol) my next one, I will definitely use this method with air and then a vacuum. That's the complete fix. Also, the cyl I did with just air and vacuum now has 20% pressure loss which i suspect is bc there was a shaving or 2 i couldn't get to with the vacuum. His method is slower but is best I've ever seen!
There was no shaving in the pan. So it shows if you take time it works
@@p71collector30 3:24 watch a big chunk falling, also the cylinder head is on its side, if this was a conventional 4 cyl the head would be horizontal, and even more stuff would fall down. The only way to be sure of a job like this is to take the head off the engine, and do it on a bench.
@@TrueBlueEG8 it's easier to get a chunk then have a shit ton of shaving.
thanks for the tip man. I appreciate it a lot. and thanks for all your videos and tips you give to all of us. God bless brother.
What I want to know is where you got a tap with a 3/8 inch drive, the hole I need to repair is really deep
Have not watched entire video so if this is addressed my apologies...but how about simply using a shopvac (with an adaptor - e.g. piece of
tubing) to vacuum out cylinder head? Also use a boroscope to ensure most/all shavings are removed??
I recently did this repair on a 2003 Ford Taurus 24V and used a shop vac to remove any shavings that fell into the cylinder
Yep, but with his method, nothing ever is in the hole, I'm now gonna do his way plus air plus vac
This is a great video! Thanks for the demonstration!
At 18:45 you mention that the blow gun shaft needs to be much smaller than the plug hole, and I agree. I'd also make sure the exhaust valve was open fully to allow another exit point. You'd need to ensure the crank doesn't spin because the piston could be affected by whatever small amount of pressure you're causing as well. Great video.
I was thinking not only have the exhaust valve fully open but attach a strong vacuum to the tail pipe that could suck out the filings.
Thanks for another super video. You are the man. God speed to you.
so...in shop class in high school (yes I'm that old) we used to fill cylinder with shaving cream---the cream caught the scarf and shavings--drill and tap--and then crank engine afterwards. cranking would squirt the shaving cream with the shavings out the spark plug hole...then clean out with a little gasoline and air--or brake cleaner. usually it would be totally clan. Anyway great video---nice showing both methods and amount of "scarf"
you must have gone to the same shop class that I did, maybe I'll put that in a video if I get the chance Duane
@@realfixesrealfast I was thinking what if you blew air into the exhaust and rolled the engine around until the exhaust valve for that cylinder opened. Then you'd have airflow pushing the chips out as you went
@@cindytepper8878 could possibly work and sure worth a try, but the resistance along that path would really reduce the force of the air and probably not be very through
I bought a 2005 Mercury sable. . My ? Is that one of the spark plug housing is modafied., With a extended adapter on it witch it doesn't seem to go all the way down into the block.
Will it past snog the way it done.
Would this work on a snow blower spark plug?
Thanks for your vid about to do this to my car today this helps alot
thinking that the more times you run the tap tool in and out with a ratchet the larger the new hole gets.
next grease contaminates the threads. Is that not an issue ?
well done Duane slow and easey gets her done
Have you ever tried a shop vac and a clear tube to get the metal out of the cylinder it works good but you do need a bore scope to make sure you get it all.
All of the spark plug threaders will not accept an extension, how are you able to get the extension on to the threader?
Try using spiral flute taps. They bring the chips backwards
Fantastic...Upon trying this I find the need for the limited access version of this tool with hole for drive instead of using a socket witch will not fit into plug well. Any idea where to get one? THANKS
Hello can you link the grease and the tools you used in the description box please
As a precision mechanic I would hand thread it in to prevent cross threading as a safe measure then proceed with further cutting, then on the taking out part back it out slowly and again hand remove the tool
Great informational video, many thanks. 4.6 v8 2 valve motor on 03 ford
excellent video. Thank you for your time and effort to make this. Just super!
Can you tell me the larger thread size. Thanks
Why not put a thin layer on the blow gun tube grease that way anything blown around would hit the grease and also come out
Nice tutorial! Can we put suction in the cylinder or some magnet with a flexible cable to pull out the chips?
its aluminum. not magnetic
What if you stuffed the cylender with a greasy rope and pushed the piston up on it 🤔2
Other Issue in this Video is the Cylinder is on its side, when your motor is on, Gravity plays a big part and there is a difference to the shavings coming out being on the side to totally straight down into the motor
another top notch video from a master ,thanks for vids; what part of the country you from?
Great video, Duane. Is that your home garage? Is the shop under construction? Maybe you're expanding your business. Thanks.
+Cooll Asice You have a keen eye. You must have been watching my videos for quite awhile now. Yes, it is my home garage. Our business has grown to the point that we are running out of room. In fact, it's very hard for me to make videos in our shop now because it disrupts the flow of work too much. So I'm shifting things around a bit.
+realfixesrealfast It's no surprise that your business is expanding. Everyone watching your videos can see the quality work that you do, and the word is spreading.
I had one blow out and a so called certified mechanic cracked the cylinder wall no. 3 on a 4.6. It had a like 2 or 3 inch long crack in the cylinder wall. Not sure why so much damage, had to have left all shaving in the cylinder. He also shorted out the coil so i would think it was why it was missing.
Just did this moments ago hope it works well!
Ques. Need help. 1st thanks for sharing your knowledge on you tube. I am a disabled vet and not working. Which includes numbing and pain in my hands. Yes its hard but, enough of that. My 2004 GMC yukon had the spark plug blow out problem. I doing this myself because I cannot afford a mechanic. Your instructions are clear and to the point which I appreciate. My issue is that the GMC spark plugs inlets are not visible at all. You are inserting your threading tool blindly. As per your instructions I give it a couple of turns and then remove the threader, clean it, add more grease and con't. However, after 4x on the smaller diameter threads, I feel as though I am not getting any deeper. It feels as though I am at the same spot. Am I doing something wrong? help. thanks.
You are correct, it is very much a "blind" repair. Unfortunately the hole that the sport plug goes into is not very big. I understand your frustration. Here is what I would say to do. Put the piston at top dead center, then back it down 1/2 turn. The as you screw the tool into the damaged hole, it should be hard to turn at first, but when you actually break thru you should feel a definite ease in turning pressure. With the piston placed this way you should not risk it falling into the cylinder. Good luck.
@@realfixesrealfast Thanks for the tip. I actually started working on it prior to me sending you the initial message but, decided to stop and ask. So far so good. Will do & let you know the out come. You would get a kick out of me working on my Yukon. 5'2, still wear my fatigue pants & all you see are to short legs sticking out of the hood. Yikes! Where there is a will there is a way!
you sound like me now. I had a stroke a year and a half ago. I'm working hard on recovering and I keep trying to do things like I used to do. Whenever I have to get down and crawl under a vehicle it looks like I'm part worm, ha ha. So I understand what your going thru.@@laureanog1
how many more years you plan on doing what you do? retirement getting close??
great tips and presentation
thanks for video. very informative
really appreciate this video
What if you just hook your air hose up to your intake for that cylinder, make sure the intake valve is wide open, and then have constant compressed air running into the cylinder to blow all the shavings up and out through the grooves while cutting?
good idea. Glad to see our creative thinking
What is the size of the portal hole? I can't find a socket smaller enough to insert inside the portal hole. Help!!!
happy new year to you sir...long time no videos from you. they all are very helpfull.....tx from making them..
Where is your shop located? Thank You Sir!
What do you do when a lump of grease falls of and goes into cylinder
you should be able to blow most of it out with a air gun, the rest will burn out
great videos!
Thank You Sir!👍
nice video...
Great tip. Thanks.
What if I don’t have a borescope to see how far I am threading the insert? How would I be able to tell I am not putting it in too far?
cherrywhite1928 Match the insert to the plug reach. Just simply screw it in. A Big-sert is MUCH better. Those inserts on the video can pop out! They can work sometimes. A Big-sert locks in. Remove inserts with a E-Z out. Tighten the plug lightly until the sealer dries and then remove the plug. Give the sealer plenty of time to dry. The swaging tool might not expand enough and cause the insert to come out. You might not have enough swing on the hammer. Big-serts would be better!
13:10 every time he does this I'm screaming in my head the entire time
You need to vote Trump 2020 and calm yourself down
Thank you so much for the video
Simply Superb....
Hey , where can i get a tool like that?
all of the FORD owners are watching
Can you use petroleum jelly as a substitute for bearing grease?
Robert Fryer Yes. But keep removing and replacing the insert to clean off shavings. It's very important to keep doing that to avoid shavings. Big-serts are much better in that it locks in. The Big-sert tool locks the insert permanently. Use an E-Z out to remove inserts.
Well you could use petroleum jelly, But you may catch yourself spanking the monkey in between turning the tap ....better to just use bearing grease
If you turn your crank to where you are are the exhaust stroke for that cylinder (exhaust valve open), then hook your vacuum to the exhaust pipe, the vacuum will go to that cylinder, THEN, blow down the Spark Plug hole with compressed air, any debris will get pulled out the exhaust. It’s much better off there, than in the cylinder. Someone will say…”What if it gets caught in the valve seat?” Well, guess what? That’s where it’s going if you don’t get it out of the cylinder in the first place!
what kind of grease
Very useful! Thanks!
Bro your awesome
Nice wish me luck
great video
Good technique..
Thank you
Umm, I would think that the intake valve held open and compressed air blown into the air intake and no shavings in side.
Great, now u have shaving in the intake lol just to eventually get right back into cylinder wall
Thanks ,learn , maybe put some grease on the blow gun tube, catch more dirt, my 2 cents.
Ok ... I have to say it... the grease technique is not new... it has been around for a VERY long time... maybe you just found out about it. Short and simple... put cylinder to be repaired to TDC... then back it down a bit so you don't damage the piston with the threading tool. NO need to pre drill the hole... the smaller threads on the tool need something to bite on when being started down the hole... that's what they are there for. Load your threading tool with grease in all the shaving channels and threads and start threading away. No more than 4 cranks at a time as your threading in, at the forth crank back the tool out and clean the shavings off along with the grease. Reapply the grease and repeat process until you are through. Once through inspect the cylinder for any shavings ... they will be shiny. Take a swap and clean the cylinder threads of grease and shavings.... spray some brake cleaner into the cylinder and blow it out with an air tool.... do this a couple of times to ensure a proper cleaning. If you have an inspection snake run it down the cylinder to see if there are any shavings still in there. Do your best to clean them out... once done then thread in the new thread coil as shown..
Chad O'Neill.. you might think you're smarter, but you basically just repeated what he said.. in the 1st video..
Hey!!! That's exactly what he did lol
why not use a flexible vacuum hose that will fit thru the hole to suck all that stuff out
+soloM81 sure, that could work. And I've done that before I figured out this way to do it. However, in the cylinder there is an area where the rings fit that can trap shavings and a vacuum won't pull them out. Then as soon as the piston moves it can scar the cylinder wall. I prefer to avoid the shavings in the first place
I do that but his way is better. Small tube cannot reach all way out to edges. Use his method along with air and then vacuum. All 3 together is the best guarantee
Yeah but it will make a difference if the head was flat like it is when it's bolted on the engine
By The way, The proper term for those'grooves' or 'channels' as you call then is 'flutes'
What ??
@@midnightrunner684 Those 'grooves' in the threading tap are properly called 'flutes'
www.newmantools.com/taps/styles.htm
To do this correctly you have to take the heads off. Leave on shaving in the cylinder and you will have pissed off customer and you know were that goes.
''WOW'' SO WHAT WAS THE GREAT SECRETE ??? YOU MADE IT SOUND LIKE USEING GREASE AND COMPRESED AIR WAS'NT THE RIGHT WAY !!! YOU DID MAKE A VERY GOOD VIDEO ,BUT IT WAS FOR SOME ONE WHOSE HAS NEVER DONE IT BEFORE.
Change the playback speed to 2x to avoid a mental breakdown
Why not get a degree wheel and turn the engine till the exhaust valve is open with that piston is at the top and blow all that shit out into the exhaust manofold.???????
Done several this way and no problem. The minute shaving dust left won't effect the valve seat. (JUST DUST). Always check cylinder with camera down the cylinder before I start the engine.
Should have bought a Honda!! The same engineers who made the mistake still work at Ford and were promoted! The best way to get no shavings in the cylinder is to drive it to the nearest scrap yard and have it crushed!!
Awesome
They should make a magnetic tap somehow
In this particular example the head construction is aluminum.
+Frank Totino ah didn't even think about that. Good point
blowing it outs a bad idea. shit can go into intake an exuast ports. I diconnect coil an injector let idle a couple minutes
With the technology the young mechanics have nowadays, they should learn all these moves not the way they think shop knowledge is, taking your time is the way, not the monkey way....