Thread Insert Deathmatch! Helicoil vs TimeSert vs key locking insert vs BigSert
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Have you ever wondered which kind of thread repair insert was best? Here's a battle to the death with different types of thread repair inserts. They get torqued to the point of failure and get ripped out with a hydraulic press.
If you want to skip the intro and go straight to the good stuff...
The torque tests start at 5:20.
The pull out tests start at 13:02.
I know that many people here are complaining about the aluminium as testing material
but helicoils/thread inserts are most commonly used for aluminium to repair stripped threads or to reinforce existing threads
if you need to repair a thread with an insert in steel it is most likely that the insert will also be stronger or at least as strong as the steel.
I recently fixed my oil drain plug with a helicoil
cut the thread, install the insert, insert the bolt and tighten according to factory spec.
Always makes me laugh when people on forums state that Helicoils are no good.
Thats because there not. This test only shows how weak aluminium is and not how strong the inserts are.
problem i have with helicoil is when you remove the bolt the coil comes out with it.
@@addictedtopussy69 you're installing them wrong then
@@nigellawrance2130 i'm not the only one because its not an isolated incident. Research it. The keysert is the best in my opinion.
I agree. Helicoils are perfectly adequate, and perhaps better in some aplications, regardless if there is something better, they work well in anything i have used them in so far.
Thank you for the video. Probably one of the best non-biased comparisons on the internet. Anytime Helicoils are brought up, Timeserts are always thrown up as a better solution. There are also videos of people talking about how timeserts are better but they are extremely biased as they sell the timesert kits. Looking at both from an engineering standpoint the biggest pro for a timesert would be the flange (to keep it from running deeper) and the more positive locking feature (swaging the end threads during insertion). A lot of people keep saying that the con to the Helicoils is that it's just a coiled wire, when in fact this is actually the advantage. Each loop/thread can move independently vs solid insert. This allows more even force on more threads. On a solid insert or bolt, the first 2 threads see 75% of the pull force. WIth a helicoil 80% of the force is spread over the first 4 coils. No bolt is perfectly nominal and neither are taps, and the helicoil can adapt to this better since it isn't as static. Plus since it's just a wire, better materials can be used to manufacture them more easily.
Wise words, the reason I always scan the comments section.
I'm so glad I read the first couple comments. This sounds right. I'm sold on this.
Hey Kevin,
Nice testing video. I thought it was odd that the feeler always releases from the left side first. I think you may have some geometry error in the press setup that is loading the assemble off center slightly. Also technically just because the feeler comes out does not mean anything has yielded yet. The fact you have so much head room over the feeler coming out would be consistent with elastic stretching when the feeler comes out.
The failures are pretty cool to watch. Fasteners typically fail when they are being torqued as opposed to pure tension loading. The shear stress is highest when trying to rotate the fastener when torquing.
Fun video!
All the best,
Tom
Thanks, Tom!
I, too, thought it was odd that the left feeler gauge came out first. The cause has been puzzling me since I did the tests. Maybe I'll put it in backwards and try one again to see if the press is flexing or if it's a geometry issue with my rig.
I stole your use of shim stock after watching the test you did. I guess it's a good thing I used one on each side.
The broken bolt caught me by surprise. When doing the other tests I was standing behind the mill table. After they all pulled out I decided to grab another chunk of aluminum and stuff a BigSert in it. Then, I stood beside the camera when torquing the bolt. Scratch one camera battery cover! That's what complacency gets you.
Kevin
oxtoolco that was my assumption with his constant left side issue. Your answer was/is very thorough! Well spoken... I mean typed
@@RidgewoodMachine I have to think it's because the faces of the blocks are not machined perfectly and the aluminum blocks are giving against each other.
Perhaps matching all contact faces and using steel parallels between blocks will remove the aluminum as a variable. All the aluminum faces have to be machined. Tolerance? maybe .003?
This would obviously be a time-consuming exercise, as well as possibly damaging 2 sets of parallels. maybe not. Obviously, you have to check for left-right problems with the press itself.
It seems to me that on the first test it was the aluminum failing, not the product being tested. I am in the garage drinking, so I might be wrong.
Brian Pruitt yes, the inserts pulled out of the aluminum. The idea was to see which held the best.
Did you see the damage to the TimeSert?
Just read your reply Brian and you are correct. Now go have another drink LOL
An objective, well thought out and executed test video on TH-cam, and with a control no less. I believe that's a first. Thank you, Kevin!
By the way, I just think the left feeler was out of spec (or the right one) not your setup... ;-)
Even thought Time Serts show as weak in testing, I prefer them for through holes. I install them from the backside so the bolt would be trying to pull the fatter part through the counterbore. Would be interesting to see that tested.
They don't show as weak in testing. This test was bad as aluminium is a very weak material. It should have been tested with steel.
I would never have bet on helicoils doing this well. Learn something new every day.
At 5:30, AvE would have said: Focus, ya fock!
he probably would've made some testing rig as well using that hydraulic ratchet to find exact failure points
Seems like the Bigsert isn't an apples to apples since of course it has more circumfrence contact. I'm surprised the Helicoil did better than the Timesert which was recommended to me for a repair I need to do. I think I may just use Helicoil on my job.
helicoil sucks, many times i get very bad max torque for m6 and m8, less than 10nm for m6 and less than 26nm for m8 this information is wrong.
At home i use helicoil. At work i use the generic brand helicoil knock of.
I need to purchase another set for a size i need and do not have, i was considering time sert.
But after watching this i can only see one advantage that people talk about is they are better for something that is frequently disassembled. But i need it for an aluminum block small engine, it should be 30 years before i need to tear it down again if ever so ill just go with helicoil again because so far they have never let me down.
Timesert is overrated overpriced and underwhelming
Thanks! Your testing technique was WAY superior to anything I could have ever done. After watching, now I have the confidence to use a helicoil to repair the threads in a brake caliper. Most of the load is sideways to the helicoil, not towards pulling out. I will monitor the repair for a while for any evidence of failure. Damn threaded aluminum ....
Give us an update on the caliper repair, I'm dealing with stripped thread on an aluminum caliper right now.
I greatly appreciate this video and was surprised to see how well the Helicoil stood up to its fancier competitors. I had trouble understanding the squish test. I would have been easier (to follow) had you backed off the camera at the beginning to show the entire set up instead going into close up mode right away. I hope you don't mind me saying so. Overall very good video and extremely helpful in making the right choice for those of us who aren't set up to do these types of tests. Thanks.
Eric Mowrey thanks for the feedback. This was the first video of its type I have made and it shows.
One of these I'll get better at this kind of thing.
Interesting test. The basic Helicoil held up pretty good. sometimes low tech is better that high tech, when you factor cost and application.
Thanks, you put some time into setting up this up.
Good testing liked it. I have removed several of those other types that had failed and install Heli-coil. Always liked Heli-Coil and have rarely seen them fail. Thanks for sharing.
What a great demo, this is so nice to see. Ultimately the base metal is the weak point, which puts a limit on any design. Helicoil did pretty well! The TimeSert did not come through with the distinct advantage we all assume and talk about. I wonder how these would perform after a few years of corrosion and galvanic reactions.
Thank you for your testing. Did I miss the point in the video where you showed how you are pulling the bolt out with a press? How are you changing the push into a pull?
I guess I didn't cover that too well. The big rectangular frame (13:37) is narrow enough to fall between the press load surfaces. The test bolt holds the aluminum to the bottom of the rectangular frame. Up close to the camera is a riser running across the press table and it has a partner in the back. On each side are the 1.75" x 3" blocks that support the aluminum. That means all 110 pounds of the fixture are hanging off that little bolt. When I press on the top of the rig that little bolt is the only thing resisting the force.
Okay
What would these all do in cast iron or steel?
Torque Test Channel just released a video on comparing thread repair solutions. Similar results, time-serts aren’t as great as coiled thread insert.
I just watched it. He went much deeper than my simple test. However, he ended up testing weaker 8.8 bolts to failure.
I used 12.9 bolts and tested the inserts to failure.
His video has far better production value and drama of flying parts. Mine is far more boring but I prefer the results I achieved.
@@RidgewoodMachine I originally watched your video last year and I was shocked that the time-Sert was inferior to the helicoil. I asked Project Farm if he could do some tests. Ironically both Torque Test Channel and Project Farm released videos for both of their tests (on the same day).
Thanks for a very informative video , this is the kind of stuff I often think about but have no idea how to investigate it , you have taken care of that !
Thank you! I think I'm going to try helicoil I just need to repair a stripped thread on a valve cover ~10ftlbs. Didn't how strong each one was or know which to use.
Do you have a theory as to why timeserts were worse than helicoils? As far as I’ve searched, timeserts are praised more but obviously they held less in your test. I’m looking to beef up my 10mm head bolt/stud threads in my aluminium block engine, so I’m looking for the best option.
My opinion is the cast metal of the Timesert is not as robust as the wire used for Helicoils. Every Timesert failure showed the insert being destroyed where the other brands either stretched or pulled out intact.
@codenamecordon Did you end up going with Timeserts? If so, did the hold up over time? I’m looking to do the same upgrade so I’m extremely curious to know how it went!
All the inserts work fine in different applications. I feel you should call your test aluminum stress test.
It's wild how just a lil diameter makes this much difference. This month I did m10x1.5 timeserts in my M54, they're on an angle spec but the wrench said final torque was >70ftlb. One of them pulled but it was my fault for doing a crap job on it. You ran your tap by machine, right? I got myself into all kinds of trouble trying to hand drive that tap, even with that sloppy lil guide sleeve they sell...
better use stronger materials
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What about EZ Lock? I like these because they install with a screw driver
CalVan is FAR superior than any of these. The shoulder prevents fall-thru and sets the depth perfectly. LOCTITE 622 never come loose.
I'm disappointed, I watched through the pull test and noticed that there is SEVERAL discrepancies with this test. Watch the "control" (14:25)and see where the side blocks are set then look at the same test (15:15).. now look at the helicoil (20:16). blocks are set solid next to the test. this is controlling the flex of the aluminum and thus holding the coil in place. Now look at the placement of the time cert (20:45). Recoil (23:25). Big sert (25:21) this one is the only other one placed as close as helicoil. I am sad that I can not honestly take ANY of these tests seriously. The torque test we had no way to see the torque wrench and verify it was actually at the values you stated. I would've like to see a better controlled test to see if they are all equally installed as well. O well, maybe next time.
There ARE several discrepancies!
Remember, subject/verb agreement!
Important factors such as temperature cycling, dissimilar metals, thread/insert diameter, installation techniques and etc.are not considered here.
I wonder what would happen if you install the Time-Sert in a through hole but do the pull test from the opposite side , I seen a comment & someone mentioned to do the same thing but with Heli-coils
Thanks for the time spent & the time you saved me. My truck is fixed.😁
Excellent video. Thanks for all the work and time. Need to make a repair and, not having a lot of experience, this is exactly the kind of 'shootout' I was looking for. Technically you'd need multiple samples and a measurement systems analysis to know if your rig is truly repeatable but for any arm chair mechanic I'm sure this is far more scientific than the "hold my beer' crowd really needs. Well done!
Thanks. I wanted to know the answers, too. The info was hard to find so I did it myself.
Great experiment! Very thorough and informative. What do you think of helicoil in more exotic alloys such as inconel?
Thanks for a great video! It would have been good to repeat the experiments a few times with each repair method to check for variation, but at least there were two related tests for each condition. I was not impressed with the BigSert -- if you make the hole much bigger it is not surprising at all that the joint is stronger. Often that is not an option due to space constraints. The Helicoil repair clearly was best among the holes of a similar size. While a solid bushing seems like it would make a strong repair. the wall of the bushing reduces the amount of possible external thread due to its thickness.
The whole point of the Bigsert is for repairing threads that have already been repaired once before, so a standard insert will not work, I wouldn't use one unless the previous repair had failed, or some muppet has tried drilling a busted bolt and gone off centre and made a total mess of it.
Thank you very much for making this video. Makes me more confident on using helicoils over the more expensive timeserts
It would be nice to hear what you're saying
Wait you said the big sert broke the bolt. Isn't that good. Meaning it held so god the bolt broke or did you say that wrong?
Goes to show you. You cannot please everyone even some testing. But that's okay. Each to their own devices.
Question? So witch one would u recommend to use one and engine head thats holding down the valve spring on a lt1 camaro..
In this part of the world mechanists use a brass tube/pipe and using die make an outside thread on it.
Then they drill the hole of slipped thread bigger and chamfer end and use moose to create inner threads in it. Then apply some two part locking compound insert the bushing and then create inner threads of the size of the bolt.
These have never failed and are very strong.
Can you also try it and run it through similar test? As I have never seen any thing about this in the mainstream media.
Appreciate the video and subscribed
Heli coil DID NOT FAIL,the aluminum did
Great vid, thanks for the upload, you really need to invest in a mic
So the big sert is the best one. But I can only afford a Helicoil.
Despite torquing only to spec, I managed to strip some threads where my car's exhaust manifold mounts. This actually seems consistent with the control testing in this video.
I'd like to repair this properly, and had purchased some helicoils. I was debating whether I'd rather use Timeserts instead since the install seems cleaner IMO. I was also debating whether I should also do the threads that are not stripped to add strength.
This seems to be the only real side-by-side. And I'm incredibly grateful it exists! What's more, it properly includes a control! From this I've decided to stick with helicoil (I'd consider big-sert if they came in stainless. Maybe I'll look around) and will indeed to all bolt holes.
Thank you so much for putting this video together!
What would u recommend to use if the bolt holding the valve spring on lt1 head pull the tread.helicoil or time sert
I've tried the Heli-Coil's and TimeSerts in Corvair spark plug threads - Helicoil's a bit more work on an installed head but far superior!! Thanks for the test.
Good vid, great info, but you maybe should have included the Huhnsolutions insert. They are larger diameter, courser thread, thicker walled. They would absolutely destroy the time serts for holding power. Those time serts are junk, that is why they have a SECOND fix kit, for when the first one fails, sometimes at FIRST torquing...industrial strength dumb design. GM, Toyota, and others recommending them is about as stupid as the original head bolt/thread design, which frankly, begs belief. It's not like this is the first aluminum engine anyone has built.
I don't buy Camrys to do major engine repair at 145k...I was pissed when it started dripping coolant from the rear head gasket. I saw it had a timing chain and that was a major feature, my mind, so now I'm doing something 5X harder instead and not much further into service life. Toyota design engineers, you suck. I feel like I own an American car here, dependability wise.
My TL had well over 310K before it was touched and then it was a tranny rebuild, clutches just worn out (go figure), engine still uses no oil, oil is honey colored when changed, same pep it had new. Had a starter, an alternator, and a couple of motor mounts (finally gave up on the hydraulic one and went solid rubber) so far. Maybe I'll just stick with Acura from now on (haven't looked to see if they had the same stupid problem, but I will before my next buy). When I got that far in their literature I thought, next competitor please (here, our fix fails, come buy it!). They also don't have that dumb locking mechanism. Better thought out and designed all the way around.
I'm not familiar with the big sert, my only comment is that if that is a head bolt fix you are holding they are WAY too short and as you said, making the thread finer is going in exactly the WRONG direction, sometimes I am embarrassed to call myself an engineer when I see crap like this...what the heck were they THINKING??? You want to dramatically INCREASE the sert/block thread interface, not REDUCE them. Give the huhns a look, you will like them, I predict. Test them, and I know you will. I predict they will at hold at least 50% over these, and double to triple would not surprise me, at all.
And no. I have nothing to do with that company, I am (was, retired) an aerospace engineer. Thank god, the mechanical guys I worked with were WAY smarter than these designers. It could also be a bean counter problem.
You should try two bolts with one feeler gage between them.
The helicoil is strong when holding pieces together but the problem i have and many others have with helicoil is that it tends to come out when you turn counter clockwise to remove the bolt. Thats why some people use thread locker to hopefully hold the coils in but that doesn't always work. Plus you have to wait for the thread locker to dry before putting in the bolt or it'll be seized in with the red locktite.
when doing tests, stainless>aluminium. aluminium is not the same all the way through and has soft spots, basically it's more of a test on the aluminium stock then the inserts. i have to know these things as i'm a inventor and deal with material values .
VCMD propulsion but, did you know that I only had a 10,000 proving ring and already had inserts in those sizes? I also have a major project ahead of me that is largely aluminum.
You dance with the feet you've got.
very true. I couldn't see the measuring device or the act on it, but that was pretty funny the first time the metal unsprung and exploded, lol
I'm also still watching right at 26:00
Happy to see the tests in aluminium, that’s the place I use thread repair systems the most, not often I have to use them in stainless, mild, or high tensile steel, it’s an aluminium alloy and cast iron the most.
In 40 years of machining parts for all major industries, DOD, NASA, satellites, jet engines etc., no thread insert other than Helicoils have ever been specified for mission critical applications. If a Helicoil fails to meet a particular size bolt torque specs, then either the Helicoil thread was not made correct due to a wrong size drill or thread alignment, or the insert was not installed correctly.
way over prices for a tap and drill bits for a few dollars that was made from china, show me manufacture "made in usa"..and if your not fixing threads for a living, then helicoil will be suffice.
Awesome. Thx for making this video!
Excellent video comparison, I wonder if results would have been the same when adding an insert to steel?
I have a wheel hub where threads are on their last legs from looking at video Big sert looks to be strongest, but that is really intended as you note in the video to be the thread repair when others have failed, would it make sense to go with the big sert from the start for lug bolt requiring 80# ft torque?
Honestly, being in the auto industry for many years I would replace the hub.
I doubt the inserts would be stronger than the steel hub and you would be introducing another possible point of failure into a rather critical piece of the car.
So my torque specs are 31 ft.lbs. on my drain plug… How can any of these options even work effectively? The margin of error is extremely small if i am to torque it to spec. It seems like the aluminum would definitely fail, and the helicoil would be close to failing. And i have 2 stripped oil pans now for the same bike… so im getting pretty frustrated and confused about my options…
Should i just go straight for a bigsert?
Different sizes will have different torque limits. Larger is generally higher.
That's how you test stuff, man. Very objective. Scientific method in full effect. Fantastic video, brother! Keep up the good work!
What I was looking for: Manufacturer's listed pull-out strength in 6061 aluminum: HeliCoil = 10,116 lbs; KeenSert = 9,239 lbs; TimeSert = no manufacturer listing
That was why I did this test. No listing on Timesert and a math formula from KeenSert.
I'm glad you took the initiative. It was well done and very helpful for me.
Nice video, Tom Lipton did some tests on some bolts that were interesting. (torque load)
Yeah, I stole his idea about checking the tension. I didn't have any shim stock so I used the cheapie .0015" feeler gauges instead.
Whatever sert you put in, eventually it is still the aluminium thread that is holding it. Once the outer thread (aluminium) it is dstroyed, the sert just have nothing to hold on to. But if you were to be able to increase the thickness of the sert or even glued the sert with JB weld, the stress will be transferred to the bolt and having the smaller diameter it will just break. This is pure physic as the force has to go somewhere.
I used a Helicoil to repair a stripped bolt hole for a mount on aluminum Honda transmission. As expected, everyone on the Honda forum I was on was like "It might work but timesert is better blah blah blah". I was able to reach full torque on the bolt (28 lb-ft) and I've been running the helicoil repaired hole for years without issue. The transmission mounts use very stiff rubber and a lot of vibration gets transferred into the chassis. Couldn't be happier w the helicoil
I’m having a hard time hearing you
I first became aware of Timeserts in the late 90's when the Cadillac Northstars were coming apart with pulled bolts and corrosion. General Motors specified Timeserts for Northstar block repairs. I never heard why HeliCoils weren't recommended, but maybe there was Corporate interest in promoting Timeserts? Up until then, Helicoils were all I knew, especially in racing.
It would have been better for the head to have been thicker where the spark plug screws in the head to get more threads hold the plug, so the thicker the insert more threads to hold. Aluminium never could stand to heat for long time. Think about Aluminium blocks and heads won’t last 200,000 miles plus
Is the engagement of each insert identical? How about the Keensert (heavy duty or thin walled). Great Video
Are you using 1.5*DIA helicoil inserts?
Oh I see. You answer that at 30:30
Great video, you should be a tester for Consumer Reports, I've known several, testing bores the hell out of me but real world application is always the best or makes you wonder how the hell it's working so well. Don't stop.
That's a good bolt
Muchas gracias por aclarar mis dudas y aportar mas de lo que esperaba
good information, but to be more scientifically valid you really need a number of the same tests for each product. A single sample and event does not make a statistically valid test.
These inserts are designed to repair or reinforce thee existing threads, i daught they actually see those maximum loads in real life. In aerospace i used the heli coil quite often to reinforce the threads in the 7075 T6 to reduce the wear and tear of the aluminum threads. Good video tho. 👍
Need a load cell on your press. 😁
You have to do the same test with studs
Makes sense that the bigsert held the most, it has the most surface area in the parent material. But I'm surprised the heli coil did better than the timesert, the timesert and bigsert are the same design, one just has a skinner body...
I still can't afford to buy a BigSert kit so I'll have to stick with helicoils.
something on your setup cant be centered cause the left side fails first on every sert / control
diy-pc-mods coming-soon - I noticed that, too. It was written off to the cheap Harbor Freight press. The good thing is that it was consistent.
Is the bolts specified maximum in steel not aluminium?
Nice demonstration, but most oil pan drain plugs torque at about (22 ft-lb). Still interesting to see how much aluminum can handle. Most people don't use a torque wrench and over tighten most of the time, which damages the inner threads of said oil pan over time or at the time depending on how over tightened it is/was.
First, thank you for this video, I was leaning toward Time-serts but I'm going to use Helicoils now. QUESTION: I have a stripped hole for a head bolt; M11x1.25, 80mm deep hole, 60mm of threads in bottom. If I stack these (4, for a total of 60 mm Helicoil threads) does the torque and load capacity increase? As someone without a lot of experience I'm guessing yes, but I'd like to get the opinion of someone with your experience.
Helicoil makes longer inserts than the ones that come with the kits, but I had trouble finding anyone that sells them. Finally found a place in the UK, waiting for them to come in. Going to try repairing M11 x 1.5 threads for a Toyota head bolt. Not sure how you would stack shorter inserts, since the deep end of each coil bends across the bolt-hole so the special bolt that drives in the insert can get a grip and turn the insert. Seems like having those sticking out into the bolt hole in a stacking scenario would not work.
Great video. One thing that I would find interesting is torque beyond spec, remove bolt and retorque. In the field, this could be common during maintenance and repair. So say a 250lb gorilla torqued the 1/4" bolt to 45ft lbs on the helicoil, how would it stand up the next go around? I purchased Acme keylock inserts based off of field experience. It was nice to see the parent material failing before the insert. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Thanks for the demonstration, well done!
excellent Deathmatch! Have a striped out AL oil pan drain that need to be repaired and the timesert seems to be what most use. Great Job interesting to see the destruction.
awesome video! like they say you have let the engineering facts do the talking ! how does the ns300L stack up to these? i am rebuilding my daughters and would like to make best choice
i need a helicoil 1/2''x20 thread were can i find one
my 06 lly the oil cooler was leaking. so i thought. removed it and low and behold a idiot had been here before. the 8mm x 1.25 stud on the engine adapter plate for the oil cooler elbow had come out. apparently there repair using a heli coil did not hold. they used what looks like jb weld as well. also appears they drilled partly into the water jacket. i believe the reason for the jb weld. i drilled and tapped it out to 10mm x 1.25 reassembled the oil cooler and installed it into the freshly tapped hole. after filling the partially penetrated water jacket with water weld epoxy from jb weld..it failed. i installed helicoil it failed so now its time sert ,big sert or recoil. which one would you recommend
thanks in advance
I would do a Timesert because it's solid and should not leak if the threads are sealed.
You're not really testing the strength of the inserts. You're just showing how strong or weak the aluminum holds up to retain the various inserts installed. Failure of the inserts could only be manifested if they stripped off from the pulling bolt. None of that happened in each case. The weakest part of the setup is in the base material the inserts were installed in.
If you watch closely you will see the TimeSerts did, indeed, fail. They broke apart and came out in pieces.
I was limited to 10,000 lbs by the proving ring so aluminum was the best choice.
Interesting that they all seem to fail on the left first..
While Brembo calipers are great for stopping cars, they have a known issue with the steel mount bolts seizing in the aluminum caliper mount holes. Would you recommend these inserts as a good repair option?
I see no problem running the Helocoil.
Why that cross bar is on top of the other one on left sid?
I'd be curious to see what these would do witb a large bolt and harder testing material. We use key locks at work and they seem to be pretty decent. This on waukesha heads, large and cast iron.
Here is the issue u are drilling out aluminum that u already fatigued you should have drilled a new hole for each coil your test is unless.
I did use a new hole for each test. The bar was drilled all the way through at the repair size. One insert was installed and tested. The bar was then flipped over, another insert was installed, and the second test performed. A different bar was used for each type of insert.
Please give me some info where I can learn who makes the absolute best taps and the best drill bits for removing broken fasteners......I have small applications....6mm - 12mm. I just realized grade 8 fasteners are waaay too hard for off the shelf drill bits.....I bought some Champion/Brute and they are amazing...... but being new to this hardened stuff I’m list.....thank you.
Thank You for such a great video....
I use Cleveland left handed drills for broken bolts. Use moderate pressure and speed. They will dig in, grip the bolt, and spin it right out.
❤️
Kevin, my compliments on what seemed a thorough test but from my perspective not really one based on what threadcert would be best. You using it on aluminum never allowed the actual strength of the cert to be tested. If you had used them on steel and really put them to a test of their own strength I think it would have been much more informative.
I could only measure up to 10,000 lbs. These were pushing that limit.
Besides, I was laying out a project in aluminum so that was the most logical metal to use.
@@RidgewoodMachine well I do understand it from your pointand hopefully someone will come up with a test that shows actual strength of the insert not the product it is being put into. I hope whatever your project was it turned out the way you wanted it to
Timeserts are often used to replace aluminum threads which have pulled out. So it is valid to see what works best in this situation.
Awesome video!!!!!!
Thank you for the video. I was going to use stainless steel Helicoils but was talked out of using them. The voice on the other end of the phone said to use Time-Serts instead. After seeing the video I don't see any reason not to use Helicoils on my project.
Very interesting. Over the years, I have used Heli-Coil very successfully. However, i always seem to get the Time-Sert argument and was ready to step up and try them on the next repair. In your case, it sounds as if the "voice on the other end of the phone" may sell Time-Serts. However, this test shows the Time-Serts to be nearly double the price of Heli-Coil and do not perform as well. Heli-Coil remains my choice. This reminds me of the various penetrating oil tests that have been published recently. The famous and hallowed Kroil, at 3 to 4 times the price of other common penetrants, did not out perform and in some cases failed to match the competing oils. This is a perfect example of the value of independent testing.
I have purchased a set of Helicoil inserts to fix stripped out threads on a guitar bridge's fine tuners. These are actively used as adjustments and the mild steel of the original tapped hole just eventually wore out. Is there a specification or test for the durability of these inserts against active use and friction wear? All I know to do is grease up the Helicoil and hope for the best.
I honestly haven't got a clue. This test was intended to satisfy my curiosity and I thought others might enjoy it, too.
This test indicates a standard tapped thread in 6061 Aluminum will have a holding force of 5000 pounds and the Helicoils create a wedging effect and go beyond that .
Look at the results again. The threads pulled out of the 6061 at a force that was about 10% less than the Helicoils. The inserts extended the strength but not by a great margin.
Thanks! Excellent test.
Wow! I will use this information in my Engineering work.