We have the tool in our kit. I battle like hell trying to fill stuff in. Now days I paint the entire base coat on entire item then fill it with oven clay, smear of the rest, acetone wipe and spray over that with desired color. Once done I remove clay to show fine details and fonts
@US2A_ARMS some guys are really good at it, myself I suck. Cerakote sell baking clay which makes it easier to remove however having said that this is mainly for H series applications. On C series leave clay on for along as you can till C series cures according to manufacturers recommendation and then using a fine soft tooth comb with some mild alcohol gently brush out. That's how I do it but maybe not for everyone.
@US2A_ARMS not to worry because I have had so many expensive mistakes when it comes to stencils etc. I don't do guns mainly motorcycle parts like side covers, exhausts, rims, hubs all of which are big items with lots of surface area to play with. I have done a few sunglasses aswell and this is where my heart drops as one mistake by blotching a letter and or removing tape and pulling coating off off around logo and you're back to square one. Cerakote CAN drive a man to drink sometimes but its still fun😁
Will this stuff resist ordinary cleaners and solvents? FYI, filling in engravings on things like sockets makes it a hell of a lot easier for old people to identify them. I use paint Sharpies to do this. The problem is that if you clean a socket later, you may remove the paint. If you let old guys with reading glasses know about this pen, you could sell a lot of them, provided the Cerakote will stay put.
Its very very strong yeah, burns through sandpaper way faster than any other paint finish and even acetone just cleans the finish once it's cured, I paint with it daily at work and I think it would be perfect for your sockets!
When doing both sides of the rear of slide that has been deep engraved, would you have to fill one side, flash cure, then fill the second side so there is no run?
This would be a whole lot easier than what I've been doing, just spraying to lightly cover the areas that need infill, and wiping off the excess after a light tack
@@Cerakote you add ptfe to it like others have done for years? Or do you mean cerakote being in it is what makes it better? I'll stick to kg, where I don't have to waste any paint. That lays thinner, and holds up just the same.
I heard you cannot color fill Cerakote using normal methods. (Crayons/wax, nail polish, acrylic paint, other paints). Is that true? I also heard that not even Cerakote will stick to Cerakote after it's cured, so you have to color fill as part of the original Cerakote and "flash cure" the base layer... because once the Cerakote is fully cured you cannot color fill or Cerakote it any farther. Is that true also?
Doing a flash cure for 10 to 15 minutes or so makes the Cerakote hard enough to touch and work on but the new coating will adhere properly. That has been my experience and that is also what we were taught during Cerakote training....
@@Cerakote Man talk about answering questions ambiguously. Seriously man just tell us in no uncertain terms what we need to know to buy this. How deep does the engraving need to be on a fully cured surface?
I just engraved some SBRs for a customer, this would have been the crowning touch!! Keep up the good work!!
Good seeing you Moose. Looking forward to seeing you in person next time we are out there.
Dang what a neat idea!
We have the tool in our kit. I battle like hell trying to fill stuff in. Now days I paint the entire base coat on entire item then fill it with oven clay, smear of the rest, acetone wipe and spray over that with desired color. Once done I remove clay to show fine details and fonts
@US2A_ARMS some guys are really good at it, myself I suck. Cerakote sell baking clay which makes it easier to remove however having said that this is mainly for H series applications. On C series leave clay on for along as you can till C series cures according to manufacturers recommendation and then using a fine soft tooth comb with some mild alcohol gently brush out. That's how I do it but maybe not for everyone.
@US2A_ARMS not to worry because I have had so many expensive mistakes when it comes to stencils etc. I don't do guns mainly motorcycle parts like side covers, exhausts, rims, hubs all of which are big items with lots of surface area to play with. I have done a few sunglasses aswell and this is where my heart drops as one mistake by blotching a letter and or removing tape and pulling coating off off around logo and you're back to square one. Cerakote CAN drive a man to drink sometimes but its still fun😁
Ah man, I just did an order last week, would have loved to know about this before it shipped lol.
Amazon sells them also
Will this stuff resist ordinary cleaners and solvents? FYI, filling in engravings on things like sockets makes it a hell of a lot easier for old people to identify them. I use paint Sharpies to do this. The problem is that if you clean a socket later, you may remove the paint.
If you let old guys with reading glasses know about this pen, you could sell a lot of them, provided the Cerakote will stay put.
Its very very strong yeah, burns through sandpaper way faster than any other paint finish and even acetone just cleans the finish once it's cured, I paint with it daily at work and I think it would be perfect for your sockets!
When doing both sides of the rear of slide that has been deep engraved, would you have to fill one side, flash cure, then fill the second side so there is no run?
Wont the acitone tske off the anodizing on the actual reciever your color filling ?
This would be a whole lot easier than what I've been doing, just spraying to lightly cover the areas that need infill, and wiping off the excess after a light tack
You didn't mention straining the mixed coating. Is that not required?
Yes, straining is required.
What make your pen different from others?
nothing
🤣
The coating inside it.
@@Cerakote you add ptfe to it like others have done for years? Or do you mean cerakote being in it is what makes it better? I'll stick to kg, where I don't have to waste any paint. That lays thinner, and holds up just the same.
@Old Dog Tools kg gunkote.
I heard you cannot color fill Cerakote using normal methods. (Crayons/wax, nail polish, acrylic paint, other paints). Is that true?
I also heard that not even Cerakote will stick to Cerakote after it's cured, so you have to color fill as part of the original Cerakote and "flash cure" the base layer... because once the Cerakote is fully cured you cannot color fill or Cerakote it any farther. Is that true also?
I do know that Cerakote will not stick to cured Cerakote. Not sure about the rest of it though.
@@maryannepeters8811 I've heard different things from different people... but I think there are videos of people color-filling Cerakoted parts.
Doing a flash cure for 10 to 15 minutes or so makes the Cerakote hard enough to touch and work on but the new coating will adhere properly. That has been my experience and that is also what we were taught during Cerakote training....
I've done serial projects and did the base coat.left in the oven overnight.next day did my 4 color camo....no problems...H series!!
@@donthit707 Good to know. Thanks.
Is this going on a tacked out partially cured surface? I am assuming it wouldn't adhear otherwise.
Typically color filling is applied on a partially cured surface. However, it can be applied to a fully cured surface if the engraving is deep enough.
@@Cerakote Man talk about answering questions ambiguously. Seriously man just tell us in no uncertain terms what we need to know to buy this. How deep does the engraving need to be on a fully cured surface?
@@iDiveDOTtv you might get a response if you ask nicely. Psychology for dummies...
Nice!
I thought it was Jonah Hill for a second lol
😂
This is leterally a caligrahpy pen
I used my wife's nail polish and cleaned off the excess,, FREE
Better put on her heels too! 👠
@@scorpionsting47 🤣
Did you make it rub the lotion on its skin?