So I was watching this video because a friend of mine needs brakes on her Fiat, I ALWAYS shy away from anything in Europe, especially Italy! But I figured the brakes can't be too different/complicated compared to anything else. Great video, can't give enough praise for mentioning greasing the slide pins and ESPECIALLY anti seize on the hub!!! Such a costly mistake so many people make that kills me when I go to do brakes for them 😡. Very thorough, very detailed, awesome to give the torque specs too. The ONLY thing I can add is when I do the caliper housing bolts (the large ones that bolt to the steering knuckle), I always hit them with a wire wheel to clean the rust out of the threads, and hit them with brake clean to get the debris off before reinstallation. However, not necessary if the bolts are good and clean already. Awesome video, thanks for the post!
@@YourHomeGaragealso, when you are resetting the piston, I always take the cap off of the master cylinder to allow pressure release, it also lets the piston seat easier.
I wish I saw this first thing this morning. I spent nearly 5 hours trying to sort out where I was going wrong (it turned out when I had the caliper upside down on top of the disc I was trying to insert the inside pad upside down - not realising the the caliper was upside down) after that it was all pretty straight forward and only took about an hour to sort the other side. What made it difficult was that the car (Fiat Panda Cross twin air 1918) this was the first time the brakes had been worked on from new and everything was pretty dry and loctited to death. The old discs were pretty ropey but the pads had plenty meat on them and not bad for 32000 miles. I couldn't get the spring clips back on no matter what I tried, had to leave them off for the time being as I was losing the will to live. Great video though, thanks for sharing.
We’ve all been there; frustrated with something not going back together followed by a smirk of success when we say to ourselves “why didn’t I think of that!” The spring clips can definitely be a bit stubborn to go on.
Thankyou. I like the way you show and tell us what you are doing. Slightly different model of brake system than I've worked on before. Needed to confirm a few details. My biggest problem was trying to find a 7mm allen key,
Fiat did manufacture a few different brake assemblies, so it might be difficult to find a video that pertains to each one. It sounds like you found a 7mm but for those who are having the same issue, Amazon is convenient.
@@YourHomeGarage I knew I had a 7mm, just it was not in my normal tool box. Found it in kitchen draw! My last Fiat was 20 years ago. Lots of things have changed. Anyway my brakes are back on car, and it's ready to be used. Rear hubs will be looked at on another day. Thank you
Thank you. Mine is a Mk 3 Panda, which is basically the same. My poor 64 year old brain sometimes refuses to figure things out any more, it was mainly the orientation of the retaining clip that I needed to see.
In the video he does say 77 and 21 ft·lb for the bracket and guide pins, respectively. Which is rare for these videos. Though imo best practice is to put them both onscreen and in the description, to be maximally helpful, along with socket sizes. Although, the documentation I have read has always said 75 and 21, which is actually a conversion from the design spec which is in N·m, and is 100 and 28 N·m. A more precise conversion would technically be 73.7 and 20.6 lb·ft respectively. I understand rounding but I'm not sure why they make it 75 not 74, lol. Though this is all somewhat academic, if not pedantic, given even with a digital torque wrench this is well inside the error band, for both the wrench itself and the human applying it. The bolts and guide pins on my girlfriend's Trekking-trim 2014 500L are E-14 and TT45, respectively. Yeah. So, two notes on that. 1, I often see it suggested that the bolts are 13mm-probably since almost everything is metric on these cars-but if the bolts are in any way stuck, you're going to round them. This is because E-14 (these are "external torx", the torx shape but convex or whatever instead of concave) is actually 12.8mm. Conveniently, this is exactly 1/2", and a 1/2" 12-point socket is what I use. 2. In the video he clearly is using a hex not a torx. On my girlfriend's as well, pleasantly, the pins seem sized for compatibility with hex, Torx (it's basically hex sized but with slight ridges at the corners for firmer Torx alignment), and even include the pin for TTorx but recessed so deeply that it isn't a problem for plain Torx. Bizarre but I'm not mad about it.
Great video. Is this the same process for a 2014 Fiat 500L Pop? Why change the bushing? Also, do you have a tutorial for the rear? Thanks in advance for the answers!
Great video - thanks. Took some looking for to find some guidance on this type of brake caliper. My daughter's Fiat 500 (Lounge 1.2 312-type) had some variations from what you had which might be useful for some. The mounting bolts were Torx E16 not hex head bolts (and wickedly difficult to get off having rusted quite badly after 20K miles). There were also some small securing bolts that hold the disc/rotor to the hub using the two other small holes (not the wheel nut holes). The Brambo discs I put on came with spare of those; they might only be appropriate for the solid discs.
You’re right - there are a couple of variations. Though essentially the same concept, but the tools needed may vary a bit. Those small rotor retaining screws are actually very handy. I wish my kit came with them. What they do is hold the rotor in place during wheel installation. Without them, it’s too easy for the rotor to turn and then the hub, rotor and rim won’t line up to install the lug bolt. It’s a unique setup and most people won’t install them because it’s not critical. But they make life easier.
My fiat panda cross was exactly the same, Luckily a hex socket fitted the Torx head. My discs are vented and unfortunately one of the wheel locating bolts sheared off below the hub slightly so that only left one on the passenger side wheel, I think the Italians went overboard with the loctite, oh hum, never mind
I noticed that you don't have the little giude pins on the rotor into the hub. Is there a reason for that? I ask because mine didn't have them on the front and I put them in and my transmission is messed up now
The rotor retaining screws; which is what I believe you are referring to, went missing on mine a long time ago. However, this isn't a critical part, though they are installed from the factor. It assists by holding the rotor in proper alignment when you put the tire on. Because this is a wheel stud assembly Vs a lug nut - the wheel can easily turn the rotor which makes the alignment of the stud somewhat difficult. I feel as if it's a split decision on if installers/DIY'ers use them or not. They don't carry any load and are only there to guide the rotor in the correct position for the wheel stud. Unfortunately, I fail to see how that would impact the transmission. Can you expand on what the connection might be in your situation?
I bought them from Amazon This is the one I used for the front pads: a.co/d/abVoOIp and You'll need a kit similar to this one for the rear because those calipers need to spin inward to compress. a.co/d/daQwuuP
Just wanna double check aome things before I work on mine. Is this a USA Fiat or European? The clips for the pads have me concerned because ive seen them listed with and without them. (Mines a 2013 Sport)
Mine is a North American car. And you’re correct - some brake setups use the clips while others don’t. Turn your steering wheel to a full lock position and look under the car at your setup. This visual should allow you to see if your model has the clips.
I followed this to the letter on our Fiat 500 1.2 2018, but ran aground on the caliper bolts... They are nothing like the ones you have here. They seem to need a reverse hex socket (if that even exists?) - As mentioned by others, bolt and hex sizes would have been very useful.. - Update: This is the Fiat part number for that bolt - 51794407. Its a star head on it... Why on earth would they put that type of bolt on a caliper.!!..🤔
Not for pad changes. You should loosen the fluid reservoir cap to allow fluid to return when you back the pistons into the calipers (to make room for new pads) but no - no bleeding required.
Lubricant goes on the the outside of the pads only. In this setup - the pad clips slide into the piston, which will help with corrosion. Another good place is on the mounting tabs. Never apply it on the friction surface that touches the rotor.
I'm looking to have to do this soon and your video was easy to follow. One question, do you have to do any calibrations after the reinstall? Like bleeding the brake line to adjust the amount of pressure on the brakes? Thanks again and keep the great videos going! Cheers!
No calibration is needed and a couple of helpful tips: 1. Take your time when compressing the piston. Lot's of people rush this part because they're close to reassembly mode. If the brake fluid is pushed back into the system too fast it could blow a line or leak out the brake reservoir. If this happens, it's likely to occur on the drivers side because that's the shortest distance to the reservoir on most cars. But again, compress slowly and you won't have issues like having to bleed the lines. 2. The back piston is slightly different on the FIAT. That piston has to be turned in as it's part of the emergency brake system. I forgot to hit record, hence the reason I don't have the back brakes on my video. But everything else is the same for procedures, so you'll be fine when doing the rear. You'll need a special tool to turn the piston in - don't let the store sell you the "cube". The cube is a frustrating tool to use and likely won't work. Buy a "Piston Caliper Compressor Rewind Tool Set", Amazon has it for $40.00. Trust me, you'll be glad you bought it and it easily compresses the rear pistons. Sorry for the long message, but the right tools will make the job so much more enjoyable!
@@YourHomeGarage No need to apologize. Thank you for including the extra information. Is that the same tool you used for the front brakes or is that one specific to the rear brakes? Last question, what do you mean by "turned in" for the rear brakes? Sorry not much of a car guy but I am good with my hands on just about anything. Jack of all trades, master of none type of dude myself. Anyways, get back to me when you can and I appreciate you responding to my questions. :)
@@MrJauxT The front brake piston pushes straight in, the rear ones turn in to set the adjustment for the brake cable. A lot of European manufacturers adapted that system. So, you use two different compression tools for the front and back piston. Not sure if this picture will show you what the rear brake piston looks like images.app.goo.gl/B9SnMogyqiCTn6Jn7. Basically, the piston has a cross on it which compresses, but only while it turns. Look up the piston rewind tool that I talked about on my other reply and you’ll see how they work together. There are also great video tutorials out there. Unfortunately, I didn’t capture the rear brakes on my video.
So I was watching this video because a friend of mine needs brakes on her Fiat, I ALWAYS shy away from anything in Europe, especially Italy! But I figured the brakes can't be too different/complicated compared to anything else. Great video, can't give enough praise for mentioning greasing the slide pins and ESPECIALLY anti seize on the hub!!! Such a costly mistake so many people make that kills me when I go to do brakes for them 😡. Very thorough, very detailed, awesome to give the torque specs too. The ONLY thing I can add is when I do the caliper housing bolts (the large ones that bolt to the steering knuckle), I always hit them with a wire wheel to clean the rust out of the threads, and hit them with brake clean to get the debris off before reinstallation. However, not necessary if the bolts are good and clean already. Awesome video, thanks for the post!
Nice touch and added comment to the caliber bracket process. Thank you overall for the kind words.
@@YourHomeGaragealso, when you are resetting the piston, I always take the cap off of the master cylinder to allow pressure release, it also lets the piston seat easier.
I wish I saw this first thing this morning. I spent nearly 5 hours trying to sort out where I was going wrong (it turned out when I had the caliper upside down on top of the disc I was trying to insert the inside pad upside down - not realising the the caliper was upside down) after that it was all pretty straight forward and only took about an hour to sort the other side. What made it difficult was that the car (Fiat Panda Cross twin air 1918) this was the first time the brakes had been worked on from new and everything was pretty dry and loctited to death. The old discs were pretty ropey but the pads had plenty meat on them and not bad for 32000 miles. I couldn't get the spring clips back on no matter what I tried, had to leave them off for the time being as I was losing the will to live. Great video though, thanks for sharing.
We’ve all been there; frustrated with something not going back together followed by a smirk of success when we say to ourselves “why didn’t I think of that!”
The spring clips can definitely be a bit stubborn to go on.
I'm the same as you I didn't know what was going on until I watched this video.
Thankyou. I like the way you show and tell us what you are doing. Slightly different model of brake system than I've worked on before. Needed to confirm a few details. My biggest problem was trying to find a 7mm allen key,
Fiat did manufacture a few different brake assemblies, so it might be difficult to find a video that pertains to each one. It sounds like you found a 7mm but for those who are having the same issue, Amazon is convenient.
@@YourHomeGarage I knew I had a 7mm, just it was not in my normal tool box. Found it in kitchen draw! My last Fiat was 20 years ago. Lots of things have changed. Anyway my brakes are back on car, and it's ready to be used. Rear hubs will be looked at on another day. Thank you
great video but why doesnt anyone tell you the bolt sizes
Thank you. Mine is a Mk 3 Panda, which is basically the same. My poor 64 year old brain sometimes refuses to figure things out any more, it was mainly the orientation of the retaining clip that I needed to see.
It takes a 7 mm Allen socket for the caliper bolts
Can you help me with torque values in Nm for the bolts ?
Please tell me what size hex bit socket size ;you used for the caliper slide pins??
I’m not 100% sure but I’d guess it’s 7mm?
At least that’s what it was for my old Alfa Romeo Mito
I guess you're right I try 6mm too lose
For anyone wondering. They’re 7mm Allen. Don’t use a 1/4. It’ll get stuck.
Wow this is so well made video you made, I can learn so much from you.
Your words are too kind Arni - the truth is, I'm the one learning from you my friend!
GREAT TUTORIAL. THANK YOU.
Get to do this next weekend on the wife's 500x!
Wasn't sure if the rotors had the abs ring in there or not. Thanks for the upload!
Is that a 12 mm bolt to release the caliper ?
Dope job! What size is on that breaker bar
Good tutorial. Wish you listed required tools.
Is this same brake orientation fir 2012 pop?
What are the tightening torques please?
In the video he does say 77 and 21 ft·lb for the bracket and guide pins, respectively. Which is rare for these videos. Though imo best practice is to put them both onscreen and in the description, to be maximally helpful, along with socket sizes.
Although, the documentation I have read has always said 75 and 21, which is actually a conversion from the design spec which is in N·m, and is 100 and 28 N·m.
A more precise conversion would technically be 73.7 and 20.6 lb·ft respectively. I understand rounding but I'm not sure why they make it 75 not 74, lol. Though this is all somewhat academic, if not pedantic, given even with a digital torque wrench this is well inside the error band, for both the wrench itself and the human applying it.
The bolts and guide pins on my girlfriend's Trekking-trim 2014 500L are E-14 and TT45, respectively. Yeah. So, two notes on that.
1, I often see it suggested that the bolts are 13mm-probably since almost everything is metric on these cars-but if the bolts are in any way stuck, you're going to round them. This is because E-14 (these are "external torx", the torx shape but convex or whatever instead of concave) is actually 12.8mm. Conveniently, this is exactly 1/2", and a 1/2" 12-point socket is what I use.
2. In the video he clearly is using a hex not a torx. On my girlfriend's as well, pleasantly, the pins seem sized for compatibility with hex, Torx (it's basically hex sized but with slight ridges at the corners for firmer Torx alignment), and even include the pin for TTorx but recessed so deeply that it isn't a problem for plain Torx. Bizarre but I'm not mad about it.
What's the size for the guide pins
I came to the comments looking for the same thing guess nobody knows
What size is the hex bolt?
What size bit to remove pins ? 7 mm?
Correct, 7 mm
Great video. Is this the same process for a 2014 Fiat 500L Pop? Why change the bushing? Also, do you have a tutorial for the rear? Thanks in advance for the answers!
What kind of tool is it for caliper bracket 1:37 ?
At 1:37 I had a hex bit socket on my wrench.
@@YourHomeGarage Can you write the number of hex bit?
Sorry for the late reply - 7mm hex bit
Thank you so much my friend, subscribed.
Great video - thanks. Took some looking for to find some guidance on this type of brake caliper. My daughter's Fiat 500 (Lounge 1.2 312-type) had some variations from what you had which might be useful for some. The mounting bolts were Torx E16 not hex head bolts (and wickedly difficult to get off having rusted quite badly after 20K miles). There were also some small securing bolts that hold the disc/rotor to the hub using the two other small holes (not the wheel nut holes). The Brambo discs I put on came with spare of those; they might only be appropriate for the solid discs.
You’re right - there are a couple of variations. Though essentially the same concept, but the tools needed may vary a bit.
Those small rotor retaining screws are actually very handy. I wish my kit came with them. What they do is hold the rotor in place during wheel installation. Without them, it’s too easy for the rotor to turn and then the hub, rotor and rim won’t line up to install the lug bolt. It’s a unique setup and most people won’t install them because it’s not critical. But they make life easier.
My fiat panda cross was exactly the same, Luckily a hex socket fitted the Torx head. My discs are vented and unfortunately one of the wheel locating bolts sheared off below the hub slightly so that only left one on the passenger side wheel, I think the Italians went overboard with the loctite, oh hum, never mind
Very helpful 👍
I noticed that you don't have the little giude pins on the rotor into the hub. Is there a reason for that? I ask because mine didn't have them on the front and I put them in and my transmission is messed up now
The rotor retaining screws; which is what I believe you are referring to, went missing on mine a long time ago. However, this isn't a critical part, though they are installed from the factor. It assists by holding the rotor in proper alignment when you put the tire on. Because this is a wheel stud assembly Vs a lug nut - the wheel can easily turn the rotor which makes the alignment of the stud somewhat difficult. I feel as if it's a split decision on if installers/DIY'ers use them or not. They don't carry any load and are only there to guide the rotor in the correct position for the wheel stud. Unfortunately, I fail to see how that would impact the transmission. Can you expand on what the connection might be in your situation?
piston bushing pops in easier if you insert from the other side and the rotors have a non oil coating to stop rusting so no brake clean required
what socket number did you use to remove the tire?
Sorry for the late response - 17mm
Best video.. No BS talking
Where did you purchase the piston compressor?
I bought them from Amazon
This is the one I used for the front pads:
a.co/d/abVoOIp
and
You'll need a kit similar to this one for the rear because those calipers need to spin inward to compress.
a.co/d/daQwuuP
Just wanna double check aome things before I work on mine.
Is this a USA Fiat or European?
The clips for the pads have me concerned because ive seen them listed with and without them.
(Mines a 2013 Sport)
Mine is a North American car. And you’re correct - some brake setups use the clips while others don’t.
Turn your steering wheel to a full lock position and look under the car at your setup. This visual should allow you to see if your model has the clips.
@@YourHomeGarage My Fiat Panda Cross (2018) is right hand drive UK model and the brakes are identical to yours. 👍
Hey great tutorial. Maybe you should say the size of the sockets and that the brake pins needed a 7mm Allen. But thanks for telling us the torque. 🙄
I followed this to the letter on our Fiat 500 1.2 2018, but ran aground on the caliper bolts... They are nothing like the ones you have here. They seem to need a reverse hex socket (if that even exists?) - As mentioned by others, bolt and hex sizes would have been very useful.. - Update: This is the Fiat part number for that bolt - 51794407. Its a star head on it... Why on earth would they put that type of bolt on a caliper.!!..🤔
Did you find a tool for the reverse hex bolt in the end? Just come across the same problem!
what! no fluid bleeding🤔🤔
Not for pad changes. You should loosen the fluid reservoir cap to allow fluid to return when you back the pistons into the calipers (to make room for new pads) but no - no bleeding required.
Everything is well done, but why use grease on the pads?
Lubricant goes on the the outside of the pads only. In this setup - the pad clips slide into the piston, which will help with corrosion. Another good place is on the mounting tabs. Never apply it on the friction surface that touches the rotor.
I'm looking to have to do this soon and your video was easy to follow. One question, do you have to do any calibrations after the reinstall? Like bleeding the brake line to adjust the amount of pressure on the brakes? Thanks again and keep the great videos going! Cheers!
No calibration is needed and a couple of helpful tips:
1. Take your time when compressing the piston. Lot's of people rush this part because they're close to reassembly mode. If the brake fluid is pushed back into the system too fast it could blow a line or leak out the brake reservoir. If this happens, it's likely to occur on the drivers side because that's the shortest distance to the reservoir on most cars. But again, compress slowly and you won't have issues like having to bleed the lines.
2. The back piston is slightly different on the FIAT. That piston has to be turned in as it's part of the emergency brake system. I forgot to hit record, hence the reason I don't have the back brakes on my video. But everything else is the same for procedures, so you'll be fine when doing the rear. You'll need a special tool to turn the piston in - don't let the store sell you the "cube". The cube is a frustrating tool to use and likely won't work. Buy a "Piston Caliper Compressor Rewind Tool Set", Amazon has it for $40.00. Trust me, you'll be glad you bought it and it easily compresses the rear pistons.
Sorry for the long message, but the right tools will make the job so much more enjoyable!
@@YourHomeGarage No need to apologize. Thank you for including the extra information. Is that the same tool you used for the front brakes or is that one specific to the rear brakes? Last question, what do you mean by "turned in" for the rear brakes? Sorry not much of a car guy but I am good with my hands on just about anything. Jack of all trades, master of none type of dude myself. Anyways, get back to me when you can and I appreciate you responding to my questions. :)
@@YourHomeGarage oh, and what brand did you buy for the Piston Caliper Compressor Rewind Tool Set? Thanks again!
@@MrJauxT The front brake piston pushes straight in, the rear ones turn in to set the adjustment for the brake cable. A lot of European manufacturers adapted that system. So, you use two different compression tools for the front and back piston. Not sure if this picture will show you what the rear brake piston looks like images.app.goo.gl/B9SnMogyqiCTn6Jn7. Basically, the piston has a cross on it which compresses, but only while it turns. Look up the piston rewind tool that I talked about on my other reply and you’ll see how they work together. There are also great video tutorials out there. Unfortunately, I didn’t capture the rear brakes on my video.
@@MrJauxT The ATPEAM 24 pcs
0:09 - 2:36 6:25 10:59
Sicherrungsschrauben Bremsscheibe ??