Having a good moisture barrier over your insulation will be key to prevent condensation issues, so use suitable tape on the seams and/or add a foil layer. I agree this is a good and cost-effective solution. Like with so many things, the best insulation is the insulation you have and can afford. lol.
Saved my ass with this video Elliot. I just got quoted for $45k for insulation in my steel frame home, TH-cam did me a favour when they put you up first
Believe it or not, if you don't need a hard surface for wall paneling, you can just use the foam board between the metal studs with thin wood slats behind to make it flush with the stud, and provide an air flow gap. Use thin metal ventilation tape to cover the seams flush and hold the foam board. Then, spray the whole thing with spray texture, mixing in a small amount of wood glue to make it stick really well. The texture will cover everything, and look like normal drywall with an orange peel texture. Paint as desired.
Seeeeesh me too. I was flabbergasted by those numbers. The spray foam best be made of diamonds for that kinda money. Although I’m not sure the insulative (is that a word) property of diamonds…
Elliott, I was thinking of you using some plastic drywall anchors in the foam before using the metal straps. The drywall screws just pushed right through, having a nice large drywall anchor would be a huge improvement in holding strength. Sure you say they won't be messed with, but give it a try on your scrap piece. They are cheap if you order them in bulk. I posted a while ago and I think they deleted my comment because I posted a link. Look them up and tell me what you think. I really enjoy your adventures, and your cat!
I have a 40x60. Paid $11k for spray foam with paint. The prices in your area are really high. I can say that it seems like the sealing properties of the spray foam help out a bunch more than the R-Value. Temps in our area are in the 20's in the morning and I live in a windy area. I have two 36000 BTU split duct units and they have been keeping up well so far. We had a hard freeze recently that lasted about a week. Temps were in the -15 to -20's with the windchill and although the split duct units worked still, you could tell that they were at their limit to keep the temps comfortable. Eager to see how your foam board comes out. Sounds like a nice plan. I've seen guys get cans of foam and seal up the seams prior to installing the foam board. Seemed to work well. I've sub'd to follow along.
There’s no doubt prices sky rocketed. My father had his 30x40 done 5 years ago for $5,000. But there’s not much I can do about that besides find an alternative, which I did!
Nice save lots of $$ and should do the trick! Could you do a quick video on you car lift? On why you chose that one and how hard it was to set up , etc. did you shop around different brands?
I actually touch on that in an upcoming video, I can expand on that if you’d like some more in-depth information after that video posts in the next couple days!
@@EverythingElliott I spray foamed my entire shop worked great, six months later though I had electrical issues and guess what the foam was spray over all my wires, couldn't get at any of them ended up having to rewired half of the building cause I couldn't get at them, in the end it cost me a lot of money, and if you don't know this spray foam break down over time if sunlight hits it even with the fire coating on it.
This is getting interesting. 🤔 I don't blame you for going with the foam board over the spray foam to keep cost reasonable. Ceiling first, smart idea 💡 !
I couldn’t even begin to imagine spending that kind of money in my personal shop. It would be different if I were working in here full time then it might be worth the investment
I don’t think that’s gonna work and why such a big gap behind it? Double it up and pack it solid, maybe route out a air flow channel to the trusses and soffit, I think the sheet rock screws are just gonna pop out of the foam if you touch it, plus double up the R value. What is the R value on a piece of that foam anyway? Hope it works, I’m planning on a building similar in the future and I want it warm and am very interested in this insulating process.
Well, I’m told the boards are R-14. Big gap is for air flow to cut down on the possibility of condensation. And since the job is already done, I can tell you it worked, and you’ll just have to stayed tuned to see the final result tomorrow!
I need to do this in my attic, and hadn't considered the mending tie method. I was going to brad nail furring strips to my joists, and butt the foam board up against those strips. Just a FYI, the air gap is meant to prevent thermal bridging between your outer wall and your insulation. You'll still have some bridging on your ribs, but clearly not significant compared to the surface area that you're insulating. Good luck!
my shop is a shipping container 20 foot long and it gets really hot in there .. I am about to go to Lowe's and buy a few of the thin 4x8 foam boards and stick them on the roof of the container hoping that that will reduce the heat caused by the direct sun light. cost will be about 100 dollars .. they want 1500 dollars for complete foam spray .. not gonna happen.
Better to have overlaid blue foam board with the metal sheathing on the outside of the metal studs ....and tape to seal... Add solar barrier if you wish.... I rehung the siding on my building to accomplish this ,well worth its.. It's much more sound proof too😊
@@EverythingElliott BTW ...if the metal siding is fasten with screws? Then it's just as fast to remove siding hang the insulation and refasten the siding over it .less measuring and cutting. And if your shop is ful of stuff to move..... Lol.....uncommon sense.
According to everything I've ever read about insulation, apparently the thermal bridge that is created from your metal support poles pretty much negates any R value that this insulation may afford. Look it up. R-10 foam walls with steel beams which are exposed to the inside surfaces makes the wall have a total R value of possibly as low as R-5. I hope you ended up mounting this foam to the face of the supports, not between them.
Nope, its mounted between the metal supports...and I know I lost some R Value by doing that, however its not completely negated...there is a huge difference in heat loss in my building now that its up. I can just tell from being in there, and how fast the heater heats the building to temp, and how long in-between heat cycles.
What brand of foam board is that? I have a metal building and need to do the same. All the foam board I see to buy has ugly print all over it. I want the white blank side like you have. Thanks for any info
I couldn’t tell you what brand it is, because it isn’t branded…haha sorry I’m not more help, I bought it off a guy on Craigslist that buys factory defects in bulk. If you’re near the WNY area you can send me and email and I can give you his contact info
Why not foam the edges and seams and it will be darn near as good as fully spray foamed. This method is also a quick fix for a broken window in the winter for a temp fix too, just cut the EPS foam half inch short on each side and foam in the gap all the way around - done.
Where were those quotes from if you dont mind me asking? Just so I don't bother wasting my time calling those companies. I'd like to use spray foam, however I'm not trying to spend 40k+
I wish they were a mistake, and that's why I got multiple because the first one I got was the 40k and I said that's gotta be way off...It seems that price on spray foam varies greatly by region.
All those guotes are ridiculous But we’re out ou estimating to an R Value. Because if ou shoot for the same R value then they are very comparable in price in Florida
Wanna know how I got all this Foam In my Shop? Check out this video : th-cam.com/video/wgrqR3zhM5M/w-d-xo.html
(Spoiler Alert: I used my Tractor)
Having a good moisture barrier over your insulation will be key to prevent condensation issues, so use suitable tape on the seams and/or add a foil layer. I agree this is a good and cost-effective solution. Like with so many things, the best insulation is the insulation you have and can afford. lol.
That’s what I keep saying, some insulation is better than none!
Saved my ass with this video Elliot.
I just got quoted for $45k for insulation in my steel frame home, TH-cam did me a favour when they put you up first
Glad you founds the videos! I’m super happy with the results and my shop is way warmer now!
I like your approach. As someone in the south you NEED that air gap or condensation will mold anything.
That's a good point! Sometimes airflow can be our friend!
Let's GO!
Looking forward to watching you work, always fun.
Love your enthusiasm! Thanks for the support!
Believe it or not, if you don't need a hard surface for wall paneling, you can just use the foam board between the metal studs with thin wood slats behind to make it flush with the stud, and provide an air flow gap. Use thin metal ventilation tape to cover the seams flush and hold the foam board. Then, spray the whole thing with spray texture, mixing in a small amount of wood glue to make it stick really well. The texture will cover everything, and look like normal drywall with an orange peel texture. Paint as desired.
Not a bad idea to be honest! Thanks for the tip!
Spray foam won me over. Sealed my buildings up better than any other method that we previously used. Deadens sounds a lot too👍
no doubt that spray foam is the ultimate option, its just completely unreasonably priced in my area.
Wow I'm gonna start a spray foam Business!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Can't wait to see the install video. Good job.
Seeeeesh me too. I was flabbergasted by those numbers. The spray foam best be made of diamonds for that kinda money. Although I’m not sure the insulative (is that a word) property of diamonds…
Elliott, I was thinking of you using some plastic drywall anchors in the foam before using the metal straps. The drywall screws just pushed right through, having a nice large drywall anchor would be a huge improvement in holding strength. Sure you say they won't be messed with, but give it a try on your scrap piece. They are cheap if you order them in bulk. I posted a while ago and I think they deleted my comment because I posted a link. Look them up and tell me what you think. I really enjoy your adventures, and your cat!
That’s a great idea! Thanks for the support
I have a 40x60. Paid $11k for spray foam with paint. The prices in your area are really high. I can say that it seems like the sealing properties of the spray foam help out a bunch more than the R-Value. Temps in our area are in the 20's in the morning and I live in a windy area. I have two 36000 BTU split duct units and they have been keeping up well so far. We had a hard freeze recently that lasted about a week. Temps were in the -15 to -20's with the windchill and although the split duct units worked still, you could tell that they were at their limit to keep the temps comfortable. Eager to see how your foam board comes out. Sounds like a nice plan. I've seen guys get cans of foam and seal up the seams prior to installing the foam board. Seemed to work well. I've sub'd to follow along.
There’s no doubt prices sky rocketed. My father had his 30x40 done 5 years ago for $5,000. But there’s not much I can do about that besides find an alternative, which I did!
Nice save lots of $$ and should do the trick! Could you do a quick video on you car lift? On why you chose that one and how hard it was to set up , etc. did you shop around different brands?
I actually touch on that in an upcoming video, I can expand on that if you’d like some more in-depth information after that video posts in the next couple days!
I have a metal building and used the same thing and it was amazing how well it works.
Should pay for itself in no time!
@@EverythingElliott I spray foamed my entire shop worked great, six months later though I had electrical issues and guess what the foam was spray over all my wires, couldn't get at any of them ended up having to rewired half of the building cause I couldn't get at them, in the end it cost me a lot of money, and if you don't know this spray foam break down over time if sunlight hits it even with the fire coating on it.
@@c-v-n3322 that’s exactly why I want mine removable
This is getting interesting. 🤔
I don't blame you for going with the foam board over the spray foam to keep cost reasonable. Ceiling first, smart idea 💡 !
I couldn’t even begin to imagine spending that kind of money in my personal shop. It would be different if I were working in here full time then it might be worth the investment
Those quotes are crazy. I have a building that is similar size and that spray foam insulation would be more than my building costed.
That’s the exact situation I was in, and I could not come to justify spending that kind of money
I don’t think that’s gonna work and why such a big gap behind it? Double it up and pack it solid, maybe route out a air flow channel to the trusses and soffit, I think the sheet rock screws are just gonna pop out of the foam if you touch it, plus double up the R value. What is the R value on a piece of that foam anyway? Hope it works, I’m planning on a building similar in the future and I want it warm and am very interested in this insulating process.
Well, I’m told the boards are R-14. Big gap is for air flow to cut down on the possibility of condensation. And since the job is already done, I can tell you it worked, and you’ll just have to stayed tuned to see the final result tomorrow!
@@EverythingElliott alright that’s awesome then…R14 that’s decent too!
Maybe try baffles behind the foam board. There are some videos on installing baffles in attic spaces.
I need to do this in my attic, and hadn't considered the mending tie method. I was going to brad nail furring strips to my joists, and butt the foam board up against those strips.
Just a FYI, the air gap is meant to prevent thermal bridging between your outer wall and your insulation. You'll still have some bridging on your ribs, but clearly not significant compared to the surface area that you're insulating.
Good luck!
Some insulation is better than none! I realize there are inherent flaws to this technique but it will be the most cost/time effective
my shop is a shipping container 20 foot long and it gets really hot in there .. I am about to go to Lowe's and buy a few of the thin 4x8 foam boards and stick them on the roof of the container hoping that that will reduce the heat caused by the direct sun light. cost will be about 100 dollars .. they want 1500 dollars for complete foam spray .. not gonna happen.
I did one of those DIY spray foam kits in my mudroom and it turned out really well, might want to consider that for a small area like that
That's a great cat right there.
Theodore is the MVP
Better to have overlaid blue foam board with the metal sheathing on the outside of the metal studs ....and tape to seal...
Add solar barrier if you wish....
I rehung the siding on my building to accomplish this ,well worth its..
It's much more sound proof too😊
That is dedication. I don’t have the time for that, that’s for sure
@@EverythingElliott install during original build.....
@@MalleusDei275 yeah, great idea then, I'm way past that though...
@@EverythingElliott BTW ...if the metal siding is fasten with screws?
Then it's just as fast to remove siding hang the insulation and refasten the siding over it .less measuring and cutting.
And if your shop is ful of stuff to move.....
Lol.....uncommon sense.
According to everything I've ever read about insulation, apparently the thermal bridge that is created from your metal support poles pretty much negates any R value that this insulation may afford. Look it up. R-10 foam walls with steel beams which are exposed to the inside surfaces makes the wall have a total R value of possibly as low as R-5. I hope you ended up mounting this foam to the face of the supports, not between them.
Nope, its mounted between the metal supports...and I know I lost some R Value by doing that, however its not completely negated...there is a huge difference in heat loss in my building now that its up. I can just tell from being in there, and how fast the heater heats the building to temp, and how long in-between heat cycles.
That’s BS !! That slim piece of metal no way will reduce your R value that much.
Very clever!😀
Thanks for watching! Check back tomorrow to see how it turned out!
I have a 20 foot shipping container. Building it into a bunker. Does the foam board offgas ?
Not that I’ve noticed
I am in Gasport, did you find a cheap place for the sheets? Len-co or someone else?
There’s a guy in the city of buffalo that I got them from for cheap. He advertises on Craigslist
The air gap you're trying to explain is called a thermal break!
I’ll take scientific terms for 500, Alex.
What brand of foam board is that? I have a metal building and need to do the same. All the foam board I see to buy has ugly print all over it. I want the white blank side like you have. Thanks for any info
I couldn’t tell you what brand it is, because it isn’t branded…haha sorry I’m not more help, I bought it off a guy on Craigslist that buys factory defects in bulk. If you’re near the WNY area you can send me and email and I can give you his contact info
@@EverythingElliott bummer thanks. I’m in Texas and have been searching and searching for exactly what you have.
If I'm overlooking something I apologize. How thick is this material
2” thick
Thanks
You’re welcome
Welll E.. $27,000 is a lot of money… you could buy two wood stoves and 200 cord of wood and still have money left over…
Right?! I can’t even begin to justify spending that kinda money for some spray foam.
Why not foam the edges and seams and it will be darn near as good as fully spray foamed. This method is also a quick fix for a broken window in the winter for a temp fix too, just cut the EPS foam half inch short on each side and foam in the gap all the way around - done.
The edges were pretty darn tight...no need for the spray foam to make up any gaps. That's a good recommendation though!
Where were those quotes from if you dont mind me asking? Just so I don't bother wasting my time calling those companies. I'd like to use spray foam, however I'm not trying to spend 40k+
One was southern tier spray foam, the other two were just guys names I got through word of mouth.
What kind of tape do you use?
Aluminum tape
i feel like those quotes are off by a mile. we had our 60x100 steel hut done, 2" thick for $13.000
I wish they were a mistake, and that's why I got multiple because the first one I got was the 40k and I said that's gotta be way off...It seems that price on spray foam varies greatly by region.
What is the name of your foam board
I’m not sure, it doesn’t have any markings on it at all.
What is the thickness of the foam boards you used?
2” rigid foam board
You can buy the building for that
Yeah spray foam is unreasonable
Spray foam is effective but, something that expensive shouldn't look like puke.
Haha you’re not wrong. You need a wall covering afterward!
Spray foam is just in peoples heads it’s not that good, I’d never use it in a metal building to air tight
I’ve been pretty happy with the foam board
All those guotes are ridiculous
But we’re out ou estimating to an R Value.
Because if ou shoot for the same R value then they are very comparable in price in Florida
The price for insulation would have been more than the building!