Just so your aware, you do NOT need 6" of spray foam. 3" is plenty. I am a professional builder and we do this all the time. Our climate is extremely cold.
@@markwilliams4525 huh. We never use open cell. I suppose some do for roof for a lighter dead load?? The only time I've ever seen it was on a big hydraulic door for a shop. The guy said it was lighter that way. In reality though closed cell really doesn't weigh very much per sq ft.
Good info: door height should be greater than 10 ft. 6 " spray foam is better than fiberglass insulation install outdoor wood burning stove install radiant floor heat put the windows in as you go
@@Cool_Videoz He was talking about an outdoor furnace; he mistakenly used the term wood burning stove when referring to an outdoor furnace. Later, he did talk about he had installed an indoor wood burning, or pellet, stove.
@@Cool_Videozi can't speak for the guy, but I would say that an indoor wood burning furnace would create a vacuum through the need to draft the exhaust, which in a very tight building could require a mechanical system to bring in fresh air to prevent potential back draft and carbon monoxide issues. Secondly, wood burning is never 100% efficient, and creates the requirement for cleaning the exhaust flue. An outdoor furnace would still need to be serviced, but it greatly reduces the risk to your home in the event of a creosote fire and makes servicing the unit significantly easier. (Hardwoods of course reduce the creosote deposits significantly compared to burning softer woods)
@@nandi123 I built a shed for the farm. Make sure everything I thought it would put in it and decided on a couple of 20 wide by 14-6" tall overhead doors. Same thing I can get everything in but it's tight and I got to be careful especially when I'm backing in the combine. Should have gone 24 ft wide. Didn't have room to go 6 in taller but if I would have I wouldn't had to lower the clean grain auger in the hopper which I didn't take into account when I was measuring
Just found your channel and watched for curiosity. Steel buildings have challenges to insulation but there are a couple of authoritative guidance manuals. Condensation and excess humidity is all too common. First, must have a subslab vapor barrier. This isn't cheap poly but a taped membrane system. Next, closed cell insulation cannot be beat on the roof. 3" as any thicker and there's no return on investment. Also do not listen to any installer suggest to put double bubble, Tyvek or any decoupling material between the steel roof panels and insulation. Ignore the rationale of needing to replace a roof panel. In 33 years of these buildings, the only roofs replaced are from tree falls. Hail damage is just an eyesore and small damage everyone just patches. 2" of closed cell on the sidewalls is going to get it done. Again, direct to steel application is best. I personally do not recommend any of my clients planning on conditioning the space just use steel siding to the purlins. I design with wood sheathing, which allows the walls to be effectively insulated with less expensive batt or rigid sheet, superior foundation for house wrap, and then a great thermal break for the steel siding greatly reducing potential for condensation. It's more expense to do this, but the results are superior in many ways. Finally, any building has to breath, and when you insulate tightly and seal all leaks afforded by conventional construction, you need to install ventilation. Normally for us, we design HVAC with fresh air intake and to turn the air over in a space. Doing so improves air quality and regulates moisture.
Thanks for sharing, just saw this video on installing Blue Tex which is a foil backed foam that comes in a roll and in varied thickness. I'm curious what you think about this method, I'm no expert but it seems to be an excellent VB with minimal insulate for not so cold climates. th-cam.com/video/pK8g9lS2_yo/w-d-xo.html
I am building a loft in a 26x40 steel building framing with 2x12 floors on I beams and was planning on shiplap directly to red iron horizontals BUT use sheet metal on ceiling...building is is South Louisiana and very seldom cold The building already has white backed insulation with batt against all sheet metal Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks
Those outdoor stoves eat firewood by the truckload. Install an indoor stove and mount an exhaust fan, vented outside, for the few times some smoke escapes. Radiant, warm floors are a nice thought but also very hard to provide enough heat to when you are in a cold climate. Great video!
As a home builder I can tell you if water is dripping and there's no snow on the roof and it's cold out and it's not raining. Your roof is not leaking it's condensation.. moisture runs from heat and runs too cold. Then it freezes then it melts then I tricks down
Holy crap... my last shop was a steel building (already built when I purchased the property) and I thought for sure the roof had leaks all over. I did the same thing, I went up top and sealed every screw head twice (two years in a row in the spring time) and I still got water coming out of the insulation. Makes a ton of sense that it was condensation... There was no way water was getting in any other way.
This year we are doing good with no water now that we got it all squared away. Way less stressful hoping we didn't have to worry about a leak coming in
Thanks for the videos about your barndo. We bought our property a couple of years ago, and it came with two newish metal buildings on slabs. One is a barn and the other is a garage. The barn is identical to your building when it comes to the structure and insulation, only a smaller (24x24) footprint. I'm fixing to cut into it and add pens for animals inside, which has caused me a little bit of anxiety. I have this brand new building that could be another home or Air B-n-B, and I'm going to house pigs inside - LOL. Anyway, those first cuts and changes are nearing, and I found some comfort after watching a couple of your videos. Like you. I'd never had any experience with a metal building and wood seems a lot less daunting. Thanks again for the help.
in usual circumstances gabled endwalls will be post and beam construction. meaning they will fall unless braced while interior frames are self supported (front to back). It is uncommon for larger steel buildings to use panel shear bracing, but not unheard of. 24x24 could be a single bay building meaning there may not be an interior frame. You should verify that any wall you are cutting into has a cable brace/ wind column/ portal frame bracing it, if not it could still be braced through weak axis bending, but would be impossible to tell by sight. the easiest way you could tell is by pulling the permitting drawings assuming they exist, or look for a peak box sticker and call the manufacturer and see if they can send you a set. They should clearly state the type of bracing used right at the front. The drawings will also specify whether the building is designed as enclosed meaning the roof will not be designed for as much uplift, so also verify that if whatever you're cutting will be open forever that it does not change the building from fitting enclosed criteria to partially enclosed. If in doubt, toss some money to a local engineer. An engineer provided with the drawings would make short work of it and the 100 bucks would give you peace of mind.
Great advice from the above comment. If the structure is missing support it can twist especially in windy situations and collapse. Most of the prefab steel are engineered for wind and roof loads in your area so if you pull stuff that gives it lateral support you might be in trouble.
Pole barn with trusses, attic space , sofet vent , ridge vent , tyvek and rockwool or fiberglass insulation is the way to go. After insulating steel building properly cost more than properly built pole barn garage.
I liked your proposed use of firewood unit to heat your building. I have heated 10,000 sf greenhouses with firewood, but using my innovative infrared heating system, I developed 1973- 1992.You can see more in my system first installation, done by the owner using used 2" dia. pipes. The owner had earlier installed a hot air system, but late fall freeze destroyed almost all his crop. After my system was installed, I tested in February at midnight in a snow storm at -32F outside temperature. Nor a single plant was lost. Your insulated building would really use very little wood fuel. You can see my first big syste, rather crude then but quite nicely improved since then. CBC TV did a video, with my system shown and the owner and later me commenting. Condensation is quite nicely reduced. Floor heating is done perfectly using my Infra red system. Your only maintenance is your boiler. I would prefer your wood stove being steam output, since steam billed pipes don't add weight to your pipes. Steam temperature is perfectly uniform throughout. Just wanting you to know how I would heat your building. The steam pressure will remain below 15 PSI, but typically 2-5 PSI. so no operators are needed, nor inspections.
Nice subject selection. I'm sure this will help a lot of people out. Is that insulation directly on the rolling doors? I like the idea of having a wood burning stove as well.
Yes the doors have r2 insulation on then did it isn't super efficient but it is better than nothing. I think I can retro fit my place with a furnace system with a wood heater, I think I'll try before fall
Excellent. Most of these structures have more than one door. For me, I would just want one door, 15' high like you say, that could easily back the Cedar Creek or whatever RV into it. I would want the foundation plumbing location in advance where a bathroom, shower/tub room addition could be built later on. Semi house and garage, if you will.
When it comes to wood burning stoves, I suggest you get a stove with the option to use a fresh air system. Taking in air from outside does 2 useful things. 1 - It helps improve the burn efficiency 2 - It helps keep the hot air in the building.
My 36x48x28 is just getting finished up. I went with a 12x12, 9x8, and a rear 8x8 rollup. Mines a wood pole barn with steel siding, roof, and trim. I'm ordering my doors from the same company. I did go with a wood structure because it adds add -on ability. I also had 4 man doors and 10 windows installed at the same time as the build. I knew I was going to want the light and the airflow for those hot summer days. Your building looks good though.
That's awesome! Those are some solid door sizes that 12x12 will be super useful. We finally did get our windows in too and it was insane how much a difference those make. Thanks a bunch. How big is the structure inside going to be for you? Are you splitting it into a shop and a house or the whole thing a house?
@Homesteading Barndo I'm building a loft in the rear, over the 8x8 tractor door, that stretches the whole 36' face wall. So 36x15. Under the loft will be my office with a man door and 3 windows. The 2nd story of the office will be an apartment for my daughter(trying to make her stay, lol). We are also building a 30x20 Airbnb next to the shop with the same steel siding and roof. We live on acreage in Oregon and own riverfront so it will be a place for hunters and fisherman to stay overnight. We have a home on the property so it's all shop out there. Doing an attached greenhouse this summer as well.
@@Monkeytrix29 That sounds epic. I like your thinking about trying to keep your daughter around. I'll definitely work on building out properties to try to keep my kids in the area :D
Fiberglass cavity insulation for metal buildings is good. With only one layer of plastic vapor barrier on the interior only. You only want a vapor barrier not a vapor membrane. The condensation needs to escape outside slowly in a vapor state. Spray foam is too tight.
@@homesteadingbarndo Yes I am but I may not be using it for conventional means at least a section of it along with making it a almost net zero building plus I'm still in the process of finding the proper property to do what I want on which is going to require me moving states. But I have been into Barndos or post frame homes for the past 4 years and I have gotten a lot of information on multiple channels about them. But I know if I am going to build a custom home it would be one of those two choices because stick frame takes a lot longer and a concrete home is not conventional it's usable but not modifiable ICF homes come with too many issues and lack of availability to remodel or add on to later sips homes were a good idea but the execution is not to par in my opinion but thank you for taking the time to ask me the question.
@@c.n.h4841 that's awesome!! I wish I would have done spray foam insulation, especially after living in it this year, would be much more efficient, I am also wanting to get net zero too with a solar and battery system
I am planning to use a wood burning stove in my barn/building…I already have the stove, as I was planning to use in my unfinished cabin, however at 700 sf, any ole electric heater will probably suffice.
I just put my pellet stove in the 1200 foot shop half of the building and it has been cold already but it is keeping my house in the mid 60s without heaters! I can't recommend a mini split enough
Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us. Back in the 80s I was a contractor in Central Texas and I erected and finished several steel buildings ,some of them fairly good size.. When I first started doing it I was shown by someone to use chicken wire mesh and cover the entire frame with that before laying the insulation down and that way you can get those seams more secure, and it holds itself up without sagging in your roof...if someone does it please consider putting wood between your flexing steel framework when you tighten the chicken wire.... then after sheet metal is screwed on securely you can remove those wood spacers from your purlins and girts.. None of the buildings I built ever called for spray-in foam , so all I ever used was the vinyl back roll insulation... And there is not a way to do it without hating the experience... LOL! I do certainly like the spray foam better.. Anyhow, great video and for anybody who's doing steel buildings , I would suggest watching this fella and listen to him..
Thank you so much and that's so interesting! It definitely sounds like a terrible experience, but I'm sure it's really effective at keeping everything in place.
That's a great idea! I'll check it out! We did end up putting the pellet stove in the shop and it has been a game changer. We're in the mid to high 50's in the shop and 70's in th house no trouble.
roof insulation-use of vapor block 3/4 foam board strip under roof panel either glued to top fiberglass itch or glued top purlin. roll run itch or insobasket. both ways keeps building from condensationon purlins yes much more expensive but well worth price as itch is full depth of purlin height. or spray foam only one inch against panel then add six inches to that save cost of spray foam...adding an elastomericcompound to roof surface keep condensation down and add years to roof lifespan sealing up all screws and joints. correct use of foam closures is also a must on gables and eves , edge panels
@@homesteadingbarndo we always used what we called silver seal....no idea if thats a name brand...five gallon bucket....hundred bucks ...that was twenty years ago....I've built STAR, CHIEF, VARCO PRUDEN...we mainly used on service calls for leaks or sometimes on standing seam panels where steamer didnt get good closure....mastic tape needs to be semi soft when applied or it will not get squish it needs ..
@@homesteadingbarndo something else, when used do NOT walk anywhere on roof panels stick to walking where purlins are located. panel will flex or kink in weight applied to weak areas....words of wisdom. any kinks need to be reinforce with overlapped peice panel and caulked throughly and silver seal applied around perimeter
ONLY use spray foam on metel IF you are 100% sure there are no condensation that is gonna be traped behinde it, if not its going to coroade or rust it faster, because of traped water. metal by it self cant transportate the water like a wooden building can.
This would probably be a far more cost effective method. I think if I was building again I would just spend WAY more time making sure everything was perfect. I'm happy to say we don't have leak issues anymore but it was alearning curve. Building without being so rushed would have helped too, we were racking up bills for equipment rentals and weather was terrible. High Winds and things so if I had been able to build in in May/June it would have been much easier too. Hindsight is 20/20 right? You building anything?
I used big building Direct to install a 24x50 metal building . What a mistake! It rains inside my building every time it rains outside . No baffle installed under the ridge vent causes rain to blow right in! Crap Job done by Big Building Direct! I’d definitely use someone else 3:10
I'm glad that I saw your post. I suspect that the problems you had reflected what looks like a good price. Taking short cuts that the average buyer doesn't notice or know to look for. Thanks
Look into "PRODEX" INSULATION. It is a foil/ foam/ foil composite that is made to overlap and seal so your moisture barrier is complete and you dont get condesation issues. It is also easy to work with and to retro fit into an existing building. I do appreciate your candor and honesty about your experience with the Barndo. Here's the thing, you jumped in and learned on the fly . and you were ultimately successful. So you just added a bunch of skills to your resume'.There was a moderate amount of risk involved and perhaps some mistakes were made, but in the end you have done something worthwhile that you can be proud of. Future modifications like the rollup doors, floor heat etc. are still possible and even if you designed it to be everything you want today, tomorow things will change and you will be doing some mods anyway. It happens to everybody. I see very little for you to have regrets over here. Job well done. Now get busy on that pilots licence. Then you'll have something to really be proud of. Thumbs up and sub'd
Man thank you so much for the kind words. I gotta say that's how I've been looking at it, I have so many more skills that I never imagined I'd get and a new outlook that if I stick it out it'll eventually get done. Thanks again for the positivity
@@d.mcdave8880 The effectiveness of an insulation material’s resistance to heat flow also depends on how and where the insulation is installed. For example, insulation that is compressed will not provide its full rated R-value. The overall R-value of a wall or ceiling will be somewhat different from the R-value of the insulation itself because heat flows more readily through studs, joists, and other building materials, in a phenomenon known as thermal bridging. In addition, insulation that fills building cavities reduces airflow or leakage and saves energy. Unlike traditional insulation materials, radiant barriers are highly reflective materials that re-emit radiant heat rather than absorbing it, reducing cooling loads. As such, a radiant barrier has no inherent R-value. Although it is possible to calculate an R-value for a specific radiant barrier or reflective insulation installation, the effectiveness of these systems lies in their ability to reduce heat gain by reflecting heat away from the living space.
Look into mass heater fireplace inside. I don't have one but hsve seen many videos on them on TH-cam they cut your firewood consumption down 70% amd they use them in very cold climates like Russia
Do you have any floor plans you can share? I'm looking at doing something similar. Probably smaller but it would be helpful. Partially house and garage
I have my design files you can email me and I can find them. They aren't approved or engineered though so use them at your own risk, my house hasn't fallen down yet though 😆
I would without doubt used Insulated Steel Panels for building. Prefer Panelsell CA. Watch this video by Spray Jones on how much insulation you really need: How Much Spray Foam Insulation do I need?
I hired "professionals" to install my roof and they screwed things up so badly I had to fire them and finish it myself (with the help of my wife). We elected not to install the insulation on the remainder of the roof and I hired an insulation company to come in and install it (with additional fiberglass) after the fact.
That roof install is tough! Good on you for finishing it, I've been very happy with my roll insulation now that I've figured out all the issues with condensation
No one ever tells you what a HUGE problem with condensation is with steel buildings. I run a dehumidifier all winter in my storage barn. ……You will still have the same problem with wood framing because the problem is with the metal roof and siding..
Just curious, what is the point of going higher than 14'? Aside from farmers putting extensions on their combine grain bins, I just don't know what we move around that's higher than the 13'6" legal road height.
Greetings from the UK where the idea of a 'Barndominium' creates confusion and scares the authorities.. I have been attempting to build something similar here for years and the relevant Professions here listen to me, admire my Sketchup drawings.. & I never hear from them again.. There are Steel frame building company's here but are only considered Commercial and never Residential. We are very slow to change here.. I assume when you choose a supply Partner (in the US) they will do all the Regulatory, design and permit requirement including Structural loadings.. in house..? I wonder if an American company would design for me..? In Designing my Build, I decided I would go with a thin PIR Composite panel (1" Kingspan RW1000 type) as my outer skin/cladding instead of bare Metal as these sheets are much easier to handle and fix than 6" thick (and actually constitute 75% of required insulation..) And then when you are weathertight, use spray foam (PU or PIR.. not breathable soft foam..) to the underside metal face (to build up to your requirement).. This should alleviate any Condensation issues. Like you I have been unsure whether to do Framing with Wood or Metal.. I think I currently choose.. Metal (Hot.. not pressed galvanised sections..) for the quick fabrication and erection times.. I love wood (I am a Carpenter..) but I think using engineered Timber like glulam or LVL's seems to be the only real option for speed and efficiency.. Thanks for a most interesting video.
I am sorry you're having a tough time of it! I'm sure you could contact a us based company, but I am sure the engineering requirements and licensing is different. I got the steel building company to get it engineered. I live in a very free county so you don't need any permits to build. I built all my walls and interior structure to code along with all the other mechanicals. I hope you can get it done, it has been really great in my experience
Yea man I know I got that put in after. WHen I was building the instructions didn't say to install the j trim as you put in the sheeting. Definitely made a lot of mistakes but I'd do it better if I did it again
That's a great question, my assumption would be that it would be a larger version of a standard wood burning stove but I really don't know! Thanks for bringing this up, I'll definitely be doing some research on it!
Great video. I plan to build the same size steel building. 37K seems reasonable. What is the name of the company that sold you the building and did that include the erection cost as well? Thanks
It was star state steel, they were great to work with, Linda is the owner, super kind and helpful lmichieli@starstatesteel.com is her email. It didn't include cost to erect, here is a breakdown to the penny of costs to get it to the point of building inside. th-cam.com/video/pfoq-IYr3SE/w-d-xo.html I'll have a complete cost breakdown soon for interior build out too as I get everything finished. Let me know if you have any questions and good luck!!
Respect the professionals who specialize in what you don't know. Thank you for your honesty❤. Unfortunately, you are a product of your generation. It's great that you did a D.Y.I., I only hope you clearly see how spending a tad more for expert guidance could have saved you time, money, and overlooked design choices. An expert would have questioned your satisfaction level to understand how they would help you attain your highest goal.
I respect what you're saying deeply, but I'm going to push back a little bit. I think the problem with my generation is that we leave too many things to perceived specialists. Could a tradesman have done it better? Absolutely. Would it have been easier on my end? Absolutely. The things that I gained though from figuring it out, and not giving myself a way to quit was an invaluable lesson, that I am so grateful I was able to gain. A little bit embarrassed with how pathetic my skill set was. The only way that I would have gained the skills that I now have is through failing miserably, but not giving up and trying. Again. Thanks for your insight though, and I agree my generation could use more of figuring it out while getting wisdom from those who know what they're doing.
Airtight pre-fab would probably be more affordable. The only thing I've heard of many of the pre-fab structure is that the build quality usually isn't as durable.
We didn't put a plastic sheet down. We put down sand and then fine gravel and then 3/4 minus on top of the fine gravel. The excavator went all the way down. th-cam.com/video/nV_BkWr6-gc/w-d-xo.html is what it looked like at the site prep phase.
@@homesteadingbarndo surprise to see so much condensation after what you put in. I'm in Sacramento CA thinking of a 30x40x15 condensation is what's in the back of my mind, cause it does drop to 30 degrees in the winter.
@@notchit3542 Yea it was my ignorance about not knowing I needed to make sure EVERY seam was sealed up, even if it didn't appear that there was a gap in the insulation. It really needs to be air tight, and if you make sure to take your time with the vapor barrier you'll be OK. That is why I think I would suggest spray foam instead if possible, you won't have the vapor barrier issues, but if you do go with fiberglass and just really make sure you don't have gaps or areas that aren't sealed you will be good. I think that a 15' eaves building would be a lot more manageable too, especially if it isn't windy. Good luck are you going to build it by yourself or contract it out?
@@homesteadingbarndo I'm not sure if I'm gonna erect it myself or not. Never done it before. I guess it all depends on cost of renting the heavy equipments & how long will take me, compare to if I contract it out. But I won't be able to start until 6 months from now, cause I'm still trying to finish my house. I did saw another video there's a metal roof panel " same as yours" except the roof panel has a thin layer of fabric material & glue to the panel, which suppose to stop the condensation. Is the same material they put on car's wheel well. I also thought about plywood on top of metal purlins than have the options to either use shingles or self stick roll membrane, or etc.
If you're relatively good at building things you can do it. It really helps to have an extra set of hands for the build too. I really wish I would have watched these guys' series on how to build, it is literally everything you need to know on how to build your shop. This would have saved me so much time: th-cam.com/video/yfR-QVtGEB0/w-d-xo.html
Spray foam has many issues, if you have a roof leak you might not see it for months or years until you have a catastrophic failure. You didn’t install your insulation correctly.
That definitely makes sense. I think if someone has more experience and installs their fiberglass like a vapor barrier they would be good. Definitely user error on my part
i originally went for 14' garage doors on my barndo but that gave the architect(s) ... trouble let's say. it's hard to find planners/architects that can think outside the box so to speak.
@@homesteadingbarndo I eventually told the guy to put a standard height residential garage door in, export everything and then terminated services. It's so hard getting architects/planners to not think in "standard residential" terms even if you find one. Like they seemed to have difficulty grasping the idea of "no plumbing on exterior walls". "But don't you want a window in front of the kitchen sink?" ("Why would I risk a burst pipe for the sole purpose of mindlessly staring outside while doing dishes?!") They really just can't mentally leave the train tracks. You might have been ultimately better served by learning it yourself.
It was 37k we got it from star state steel I did a cost breakdown video here too th-cam.com/video/pfoq-IYr3SE/w-d-xo.html lmichieli@starstatesteel.com is the owner of the company they were great to work with
I just found your video. I am planning on building a bardo too. You mentioned you want to get a helicopter. I can tell you this. My father rebuilt helicopters for lots of the pilots that took the tourists on rides on Miami and Ft. Lauderdale Beaches. I also helped him for many years. You will need to factor in the hight of the trailer to roll it in there. My father built a two story barn. They barley fit. So figure on those doors being about 24 feet high at least. My opinion, get a separate building for it. You can't leave them outside. Of course it all depends on what type of helicopter you get. Also, my father had wheels that he put on the landing rails that he used on some of them. But if you are getting a small kit helicopter for one person they can be shorter. Do you homework. Also there are a lot of rules for aircraft. If you are not rich, rethink it.They are very expensive to upkeep.
@homesteadingbarndo, smart about renting. Consider consulting a tax person (maybe a tax attorney) about whether leading vs owning is a better write off for a business. When I studied for my realtor license years ago, my teacher told us that leasing (his example was the building for a business) was a better choice, compared to owning. This could have changed in the interim, tho 😊
@khm2128 I am building this for my home. I am hoping to stay away from a mortgage at my old age. Especially in this horrible economy. I have no mortgage now. I am selling this place to build on a seven acre piece of land I have in a different state. I am a homesteader. I have been for many years. Moving to a larger piece of property means I can do more. I am on one and a third acres of land right now. Plus this new property is next to a family member. His land and my land together means that we can have cattle and sheep. Not just the chickens I have grown. Plus I have a 20X32 greenhouse ready to put up already there. I have a small greenhouse here. I have lots of different fruit trees that I have planted over the years here. I have already started planting some on that bigger property, but will be a job to plant the amount and diversity that I have here on this site. I like to have some sort of fruit all year long.
My shop I just sold was built in 1994 and it still looks brand new. The horse stalls were build 5 yours latter,and the bees have destroyed it.never again will I use woof for anything except furniture,moldings.or campfires
Thanks, good insight. Consider a rocket mass heater, solves a few problems like, only burn for a few hours instead of constantly maintaining a flame, the mass or "thermal battery" will keep warm long after fire is out, uses a third of the wood and the rocket stove exhausts so well that there's little chance of smelling smoke.
@@homesteadingbarndo you should reach out to "liberator rocket stove" perhaps he'd be willing to sponsor a show or two. I've done a lot of homework on rocket mass heaters and liberator is what I'll be using at the heart of my system when I start building it. I'm in New York looking at West Virginia for homestead land. I would have saved many hours of research had I found your channel sooner. I'm about halfway through your catalogue of videos and you either reinforce what I've learned or taught me new things so thank you friend!... Jay
Im looking at building a 40x60 shop / house soon….would you stay with 1/2 shop 1/2 house for a single guy with no jids or do you think a 1/3 - 2/3 split? Im also thinking just two bedroom / 1 bath and maybe just a half wall to seperate just that 20ft section and keep the rest open….so for example…i could build out a mezzanine and have the living room with couch tv just be open to shop area
I think it depends on what you want to do in the shop. If I had no kids I would have made way more shop, also gotta think about resale value Incase you sell it, so is the 3/2 a more marketable property or a 2 bed shop house.
@@homesteadingbarndo I live in Alaska and own three acres with a nice view. This will be my first build ever…sitting tight hoping interest rates come down even just a little.
@@homesteadingbarndo I keep wondering if I can swing as little as 20x30 living space, 20x30 midsection shared living space shared shop with mezzanine and the rest shop. I like the idea of three sections…one completely closed off for living area and a middle area of shared space that couLd have seating, tv, game area and shop storage
Yep! I didn't know I was supposed to put that on as I was sheeting the house! Shows how much I didn't know when I started. Got everything trimmed out now though
If their ars Carpenter bees in your area they will destroy the wood. And they hate red iron.I know from experience. I will have a metal building or NO building. 2- 12x12 & 2) 12x14heated floors , closed cell foam and all electric in pipe. ( EMT OR PVC. Ian skylights. The same size as yours but 30' overhang's all the way around.also a waste oil heat for the shop and a split unit for the house
You can still add them and put the RV under it. Then if you need to close them in at a later date it is much easier to do with red iron than wood. Don't forget to spray roof with closed cell foam. Hope 2023 is a good year for you and your family.
@@homesteadingbarndo not only that you need the right type and a person that knows how to put it on If not done right it causes black mold If you ever get it done do your homework and don't go with the cheapest And for in floor heating works best with the outdoor furnace It's popular here in shediac new Brunswick Canada Actually I'm a iron worker and I've put plenty of structural and pre engineered buildings looks like you did a awesome job And for the overhead doors you always put it a little bigger than what you need Nice building can't wait till I get one 50x100 they want 249k without tax delivery and insulation That's why I was asking where u got yours
@@homesteadingbarndo As somebody who has a lot of spray foam insulation in their house. I can tell you go with closed cell foam and make sure they spray only in lifts no greater than 2". Spray foam is expensive but it's absolutely fantastic and worth it
Thank you! I"ll check it out. SOmetimes I don't know the right questions to ask or that solutions exist, so comments like this are so helpful!@@D4x4Bronc
I haven't seen anyone use insulated panels on steel like this. I've seen some newer products that act like insulated panels that have the same contours as the steel panels. Typically people go 2 ways- either rolled fiberglass or closed cell spray foam. We went with rolled fiberglass because it was the option the company who sold us the kit could include in the sale. Have you seen people use insulated panels? I'm sure that could work somehow, and I'd love to see what that looks like
You built a barn though and you need heat and you move from California to wherever it is and you’re sacrificing the smell of wood burning need to get your priorities straight there bud! Do it right or don’t do it at all?
We got it worked out eventually. th-cam.com/video/bwJQ4RoDxsg/w-d-xo.html I think I need some rich uncles to send me some inheritence so I can keep up with all the expensive priorities I need getting done. :D
Spray foam costs would be the same regardless of the build materials. In today's market it is probably cheaper to do wood because lumber has come down in price so much.
@@homesteadingbarndo I've built hundreds of prefabricated buildings. I actually miss doing them.the trim is what made the buildings look nice. Some of the trim could be pretty tricky.but since it's metal precision is much more difficult
Probably saved around 24k, I did get quotes as high as 38k to have it built but I think I probably would have paid somewhere around 24k if I shopped around. Trouble was too there was no one available to build for at least 6-8 months because everyone was so busy. This is changing with the market I'm sure
Just so your aware, you do NOT need 6" of spray foam. 3" is plenty. I am a professional builder and we do this all the time. Our climate is extremely cold.
That's really good to know! I really appreciate that insight
Closed cell yes. Open cell has lower R value.
@@semosancus5506 true. I just wouldn't use open cell.
@@runninfool I've always heard open cell in the roof closed on the side
@@markwilliams4525 huh. We never use open cell. I suppose some do for roof for a lighter dead load?? The only time I've ever seen it was on a big hydraulic door for a shop. The guy said it was lighter that way. In reality though closed cell really doesn't weigh very much per sq ft.
Good info:
door height should be greater than 10 ft.
6 " spray foam is better than fiberglass insulation
install outdoor wood burning stove
install radiant floor heat
put the windows in as you go
Yep thank you
Why an outdoor wood burning stove?
@@Cool_Videoz He was talking about an outdoor furnace; he mistakenly used the term wood burning stove when referring to an outdoor furnace. Later, he did talk about he had installed an indoor wood burning, or pellet, stove.
@@Cool_Videozi can't speak for the guy, but I would say that an indoor wood burning furnace would create a vacuum through the need to draft the exhaust, which in a very tight building could require a mechanical system to bring in fresh air to prevent potential back draft and carbon monoxide issues.
Secondly, wood burning is never 100% efficient, and creates the requirement for cleaning the exhaust flue. An outdoor furnace would still need to be serviced, but it greatly reduces the risk to your home in the event of a creosote fire and makes servicing the unit significantly easier. (Hardwoods of course reduce the creosote deposits significantly compared to burning softer woods)
@@nandi123 I built a shed for the farm. Make sure everything I thought it would put in it and decided on a couple of 20 wide by 14-6" tall overhead doors. Same thing I can get everything in but it's tight and I got to be careful especially when I'm backing in the combine. Should have gone 24 ft wide. Didn't have room to go 6 in taller but if I would have I wouldn't had to lower the clean grain auger in the hopper which I didn't take into account when I was measuring
Thank you for your honesty and good explanation! I'm starting my 60x40 Bardo this year! Thanks again for sharing your experience! Have a great day!
Thanks for commenting! Are you doing steel or wood frame?
I have 12" vented gables and 2" foam board but its 1.5" below the metal roof so the gables vent to the soffit . No issues in 20 yrs in SE PA
That's awesome, I don't have vented gables but I am sure that's helpful
I'm sorry I have 12" soffits on each side that vent to the all steel ridge vent .I dont have gable vents .@@homesteadingbarndo
Just found your channel and watched for curiosity. Steel buildings have challenges to insulation but there are a couple of authoritative guidance manuals. Condensation and excess humidity is all too common. First, must have a subslab vapor barrier. This isn't cheap poly but a taped membrane system. Next, closed cell insulation cannot be beat on the roof. 3" as any thicker and there's no return on investment. Also do not listen to any installer suggest to put double bubble, Tyvek or any decoupling material between the steel roof panels and insulation. Ignore the rationale of needing to replace a roof panel. In 33 years of these buildings, the only roofs replaced are from tree falls. Hail damage is just an eyesore and small damage everyone just patches. 2" of closed cell on the sidewalls is going to get it done. Again, direct to steel application is best. I personally do not recommend any of my clients planning on conditioning the space just use steel siding to the purlins. I design with wood sheathing, which allows the walls to be effectively insulated with less expensive batt or rigid sheet, superior foundation for house wrap, and then a great thermal break for the steel siding greatly reducing potential for condensation. It's more expense to do this, but the results are superior in many ways. Finally, any building has to breath, and when you insulate tightly and seal all leaks afforded by conventional construction, you need to install ventilation. Normally for us, we design HVAC with fresh air intake and to turn the air over in a space. Doing so improves air quality and regulates moisture.
Man what a great comment thank you so much for your expertise! I don't have any trees around so I won't have to worry about trees falling.
Thanks for sharing, just saw this video on installing Blue Tex which is a foil backed foam that comes in a roll and in varied thickness. I'm curious what you think about this method, I'm no expert but it seems to be an excellent VB with minimal insulate for not so cold climates. th-cam.com/video/pK8g9lS2_yo/w-d-xo.html
I am building a loft in a 26x40 steel building framing with 2x12 floors on I beams and was planning on shiplap directly to red iron horizontals BUT use sheet metal on ceiling...building is is South Louisiana and very seldom cold
The building already has white backed insulation with batt against all sheet metal
Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks
Good video, thanks for sharing your "regrets", I'm taking notes. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you! I have so many new videos in the hopper, stay tuned!
Those outdoor stoves eat firewood by the truckload. Install an indoor stove and mount an exhaust fan, vented outside, for the few times some smoke escapes.
Radiant, warm floors are a nice thought but also very hard to provide enough heat to when you are in a cold climate. Great video!
That's really helpful to know!! Thank you, I was thinking more about In door stove after how well the pellet stove did this winter
As a home builder I can tell you if water is dripping and there's no snow on the roof and it's cold out and it's not raining. Your roof is not leaking it's condensation.. moisture runs from heat and runs too cold. Then it freezes then it melts then I tricks down
Great information. I’m still planning before I choose one and on of my worries is going to small so thank you for helping me decide.
Holy crap... my last shop was a steel building (already built when I purchased the property) and I thought for sure the roof had leaks all over. I did the same thing, I went up top and sealed every screw head twice (two years in a row in the spring time) and I still got water coming out of the insulation. Makes a ton of sense that it was condensation... There was no way water was getting in any other way.
This year we are doing good with no water now that we got it all squared away.
Way less stressful hoping we didn't have to worry about a leak coming in
@@homesteadingbarndo Once the fiberglass gets wet it no longer works as it was designed to work.
@@philhensley5986 that makes sense
Great information to have. You are such a trooper! Wishing you all your dreams come true.
Thanks for the videos about your barndo. We bought our property a couple of years ago, and it came with two newish metal buildings on slabs. One is a barn and the other is a garage. The barn is identical to your building when it comes to the structure and insulation, only a smaller (24x24) footprint. I'm fixing to cut into it and add pens for animals inside, which has caused me a little bit of anxiety. I have this brand new building that could be another home or Air B-n-B, and I'm going to house pigs inside - LOL. Anyway, those first cuts and changes are nearing, and I found some comfort after watching a couple of your videos. Like you. I'd never had any experience with a metal building and wood seems a lot less daunting. Thanks again for the help.
in usual circumstances gabled endwalls will be post and beam construction. meaning they will fall unless braced while interior frames are self supported (front to back). It is uncommon for larger steel buildings to use panel shear bracing, but not unheard of. 24x24 could be a single bay building meaning there may not be an interior frame. You should verify that any wall you are cutting into has a cable brace/ wind column/ portal frame bracing it, if not it could still be braced through weak axis bending, but would be impossible to tell by sight. the easiest way you could tell is by pulling the permitting drawings assuming they exist, or look for a peak box sticker and call the manufacturer and see if they can send you a set. They should clearly state the type of bracing used right at the front. The drawings will also specify whether the building is designed as enclosed meaning the roof will not be designed for as much uplift, so also verify that if whatever you're cutting will be open forever that it does not change the building from fitting enclosed criteria to partially enclosed. If in doubt, toss some money to a local engineer. An engineer provided with the drawings would make short work of it and the 100 bucks would give you peace of mind.
Great advice from the above comment. If the structure is missing support it can twist especially in windy situations and collapse. Most of the prefab steel are engineered for wind and roof loads in your area so if you pull stuff that gives it lateral support you might be in trouble.
Pole barn with trusses, attic space , sofet vent , ridge vent , tyvek and rockwool or fiberglass insulation is the way to go. After insulating steel building properly cost more than properly built pole barn garage.
Agree with you, especially in this market with the price of lumber coming way down from when I built in 2020
I liked your proposed use of firewood unit to heat your building. I have heated 10,000 sf greenhouses with firewood, but using my innovative infrared heating system, I developed 1973- 1992.You can see more in my system first installation, done by the owner using used 2" dia. pipes.
The owner had earlier installed a hot air system, but late fall freeze destroyed almost all his crop. After my system was installed, I tested in February at midnight in a snow storm at -32F outside temperature. Nor a single plant was lost. Your insulated building would really use very little wood fuel. You can see my first big syste, rather crude then but quite nicely improved since then. CBC TV did a video, with my system shown and the owner and later me commenting.
Condensation is quite nicely reduced. Floor heating is done perfectly using my Infra red system. Your only maintenance is your boiler.
I would prefer your wood stove being steam output, since steam billed pipes don't add weight to your pipes. Steam temperature is perfectly uniform throughout. Just wanting you to know how I would heat your building. The steam pressure will remain below 15 PSI, but typically 2-5 PSI.
so no operators are needed, nor inspections.
That is incredible! Thank you so much for all this great insight and feedback. This really gives me some great things to think about!
Nice subject selection. I'm sure this will help a lot of people out. Is that insulation directly on the rolling doors? I like the idea of having a wood burning stove as well.
Yes the doors have r2 insulation on then did it isn't super efficient but it is better than nothing. I think I can retro fit my place with a furnace system with a wood heater, I think I'll try before fall
Great video thank you.
Thanks Nathan! I got another one coming out today finally
Excellent. Most of these structures have more than one door. For me, I would just want one door, 15' high like you say, that could easily back the Cedar Creek or whatever RV into it. I would want the foundation plumbing location in advance where a bathroom, shower/tub room addition could be built later on. Semi house and garage, if you will.
Yea that sounds good!
When it comes to wood burning stoves, I suggest you get a stove with the option to use a fresh air system.
Taking in air from outside does 2 useful things.
1 - It helps improve the burn efficiency
2 - It helps keep the hot air in the building.
This is really helpful thank you!
And you can always put the plastic slats over the actual opening so even though the door is open it still has a cover
That's a good idea!
My 36x48x28 is just getting finished up. I went with a 12x12, 9x8, and a rear 8x8 rollup. Mines a wood pole barn with steel siding, roof, and trim. I'm ordering my doors from the same company. I did go with a wood structure because it adds add -on ability. I also had 4 man doors and 10 windows installed at the same time as the build. I knew I was going to want the light and the airflow for those hot summer days. Your building looks good though.
That's awesome! Those are some solid door sizes that 12x12 will be super useful.
We finally did get our windows in too and it was insane how much a difference those make. Thanks a bunch.
How big is the structure inside going to be for you? Are you splitting it into a shop and a house or the whole thing a house?
@Homesteading Barndo I'm building a loft in the rear, over the 8x8 tractor door, that stretches the whole 36' face wall. So 36x15. Under the loft will be my office with a man door and 3 windows. The 2nd story of the office will be an apartment for my daughter(trying to make her stay, lol). We are also building a 30x20 Airbnb next to the shop with the same steel siding and roof. We live on acreage in Oregon and own riverfront so it will be a place for hunters and fisherman to stay overnight. We have a home on the property so it's all shop out there. Doing an attached greenhouse this summer as well.
@@Monkeytrix29 That sounds epic.
I like your thinking about trying to keep your daughter around. I'll definitely work on building out properties to try to keep my kids in the area :D
@@homesteadingbarndoBuilding small family communities is the future before all the foreigners from the border crossing come invading the land .
Great video. A lot of food for thought! I'll look to see if you have an update on this, since this is the 1st video I found on your channel 😊
I have a ton of content backlog but more to come, excited to publish these next videos
Experience makes perfect..
Blessings!
That's the truth!
Fiberglass cavity insulation for metal buildings is good. With only one layer of plastic vapor barrier on the interior only. You only want a vapor barrier not a vapor membrane. The condensation needs to escape outside slowly in a vapor state. Spray foam is too tight.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video
Thanks for watching and commenting. You thinking about building a barndo?
@@homesteadingbarndo Yes I am but I may not be using it for conventional means at least a section of it along with making it a almost net zero building plus I'm still in the process of finding the proper property to do what I want on which is going to require me moving states. But I have been into Barndos or post frame homes for the past 4 years and I have gotten a lot of information on multiple channels about them. But I know if I am going to build a custom home it would be one of those two choices because stick frame takes a lot longer and a concrete home is not conventional it's usable but not modifiable ICF homes come with too many issues and lack of availability to remodel or add on to later sips homes were a good idea but the execution is not to par in my opinion but thank you for taking the time to ask me the question.
@@c.n.h4841 that's awesome!! I wish I would have done spray foam insulation, especially after living in it this year, would be much more efficient, I am also wanting to get net zero too with a solar and battery system
I just bought a commercial land and I’m looking to build a steel or wood.
Your advice will help.
Thanks
No problem! Prices of wood and steel are down right now so you have good timing
Good info. Have you considered a boiler unit for radiate heat, floor and interior? And what's the price on firewood?
You can't get fire wood for supper cheap harvesting on forested land with a permit.
Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Thanks for commenting! Are you planning on building something soon
@@homesteadingbarndo yes my family is.
@@owenjosiahmusic exciting! Good luck
If your shop is tall enough you definitely need one 14 by 14 door you'll never fit a semi or anything larger than it
I am planning to use a wood burning stove in my barn/building…I already have the stove, as I was planning to use in my unfinished cabin, however at 700 sf, any ole electric heater will probably suffice.
I just put my pellet stove in the 1200 foot shop half of the building and it has been cold already but it is keeping my house in the mid 60s without heaters!
I can't recommend a mini split enough
Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us.
Back in the 80s I was a contractor in Central Texas and I erected and finished several steel buildings ,some of them fairly good size..
When I first started doing it I was shown by someone to use chicken wire mesh and cover the entire frame with that before laying the insulation down and that way you can get those seams more secure, and it holds itself up without sagging in your roof...if someone does it please consider putting wood between your flexing steel framework when you tighten the chicken wire.... then after sheet metal is screwed on securely you can remove those wood spacers from your purlins and girts..
None of the buildings I built ever called for spray-in foam , so all I ever used was the vinyl back roll insulation...
And there is not a way to do it without hating the experience... LOL!
I do certainly like the spray foam better..
Anyhow, great video and for anybody who's doing steel buildings , I would suggest watching this fella and listen to him..
Thank you so much and that's so interesting! It definitely sounds like a terrible experience, but I'm sure it's really effective at keeping everything in place.
Instead of a woodstove, look into radiant heating. Not the floor, but overhead radiant heat.
That's a great idea! I'll check it out! We did end up putting the pellet stove in the shop and it has been a game changer. We're in the mid to high 50's in the shop and 70's in th house no trouble.
roof insulation-use of vapor block 3/4 foam board strip under roof panel either glued to top fiberglass itch or glued top purlin. roll run itch or insobasket. both ways keeps building from condensationon purlins yes much more expensive but well worth price as itch is full depth of purlin height. or spray foam only one inch against panel then add six inches to that save cost of spray foam...adding an elastomericcompound to roof surface keep condensation down and add years to roof lifespan sealing up all screws and joints. correct use of foam closures is also a must on gables and eves , edge panels
What kind of elsatomeric compound do you suggest? Great advice thank you
@@homesteadingbarndo we always used what we called silver seal....no idea if thats a name brand...five gallon bucket....hundred bucks ...that was twenty years ago....I've built STAR, CHIEF, VARCO PRUDEN...we mainly used on service calls for leaks or sometimes on standing seam panels where steamer didnt get good closure....mastic tape needs to be semi soft when applied or it will not get squish it needs ..
@@homesteadingbarndo something else, when used do NOT walk anywhere on roof panels stick to walking where purlins are located. panel will flex or kink in weight applied to weak areas....words of wisdom. any kinks need to be reinforce with overlapped peice panel and caulked throughly and silver seal applied around perimeter
ONLY use spray foam on metel IF you are 100% sure there are no condensation that is gonna be traped behinde it, if not its going to coroade or rust it faster, because of traped water. metal by it self cant transportate the water like a wooden building can.
great work and great insight and video. thx!
Thanks
Could you do spray foam on the ceiling and cheaper insulation on the walls to save $$ money and not have the vapor / moisture issues?
This would probably be a far more cost effective method. I think if I was building again I would just spend WAY more time making sure everything was perfect. I'm happy to say we don't have leak issues anymore but it was alearning curve.
Building without being so rushed would have helped too, we were racking up bills for equipment rentals and weather was terrible. High Winds and things so if I had been able to build in in May/June it would have been much easier too.
Hindsight is 20/20 right?
You building anything?
Second wood build. Have 72 x 34 timber frame. Cedar siding.
Nice
Great information, Thank You!!!!!!
Absolutely! No problem, are you thinking about building?
@@homesteadingbarndo Yes , I would like to build me a garage, I hope to retire in about 11 years, I need it paid for before then.
I used big building Direct to install a 24x50 metal building . What a mistake! It rains inside my building every time it rains outside . No baffle installed under the ridge vent causes rain to blow right in! Crap Job done by Big Building Direct! I’d definitely use someone else 3:10
I'm so sorry you had that happen! That's real tough. I wonder if doing closed cell spray foam would fix that?
I'm glad that I saw your post. I suspect that the problems you had reflected what looks like a good price. Taking short cuts that the average buyer doesn't notice or know to look for.
Thanks
Look into "PRODEX" INSULATION. It is a foil/ foam/ foil composite that is made to overlap and seal so your moisture barrier is complete and you dont get condesation issues. It is also easy to work with and to retro fit into an existing building.
I do appreciate your candor and honesty about your experience with the Barndo. Here's the thing, you jumped in and learned on the fly . and you were ultimately successful. So you just added a bunch of skills to your resume'.There was a moderate amount of risk involved and perhaps some mistakes were made, but in the end you have done something worthwhile that you can be proud of. Future modifications like the rollup doors, floor heat etc. are still possible and even if you designed it to be everything you want today, tomorow things will change and you will be doing some mods anyway. It happens to everybody. I see very little for you to have regrets over here. Job well done. Now get busy on that pilots licence. Then you'll have something to really be proud of. Thumbs up and sub'd
Man thank you so much for the kind words. I gotta say that's how I've been looking at it, I have so many more skills that I never imagined I'd get and a new outlook that if I stick it out it'll eventually get done.
Thanks again for the positivity
Prodex is a 100% complete scam.
@@todds5956 Care to elaborate?
@@d.mcdave8880 The effectiveness of an insulation material’s resistance to heat flow also depends on how and where the insulation is installed. For example, insulation that is compressed will not provide its full rated R-value. The overall R-value of a wall or ceiling will be somewhat different from the R-value of the insulation itself because heat flows more readily through studs, joists, and other building materials, in a phenomenon known as thermal bridging. In addition, insulation that fills building cavities reduces airflow or leakage and saves energy.
Unlike traditional insulation materials, radiant barriers are highly reflective materials that re-emit radiant heat rather than absorbing it, reducing cooling loads. As such, a radiant barrier has no inherent R-value.
Although it is possible to calculate an R-value for a specific radiant barrier or reflective insulation installation, the effectiveness of these systems lies in their ability to reduce heat gain by reflecting heat away from the living space.
I wouldn't do radiant floor heating if you're going to mount and bolt things to the floor
That's a good point!
I wud add door to oppositeside to b able to drive straight threw building eliminatingbacking into dark inside
Someday a drive thru workshop will be on the list of things to do
Look into mass heater fireplace inside. I don't have one but hsve seen many videos on them on TH-cam they cut your firewood consumption down 70% amd they use them in very cold climates like Russia
That's really helpful thank you so much
Love th vids man. Where in socal you grow up?
@@rickymcu grew up in Laguna niguel and Dana point what about you?
Have you never took a cold drink out of a refrigerator and took it outside
Yea i have but I didn't think it happened to buildings! I came from SoCal where it is consistent weather
Wow, I can’t believe how expensive the spray foam insulation would have been.
The diy in version is much more affordable but you have to know what you're doing
I can see you are missing header trim and h trim on your pass door
Yea we didn't trim that out as we installed things, the instructions didn't show what order to trim stuff.
Do you have any floor plans you can share? I'm looking at doing something similar. Probably smaller but it would be helpful. Partially house and garage
I have my design files you can email me and I can find them. They aren't approved or engineered though so use them at your own risk, my house hasn't fallen down yet though 😆
@@homesteadingbarndo how can I get in touch with you?
@@tehxii7706 email me at homesteadyrv@gmail.com
I have the same regret with the windows. We added our own later and it sucked.
Sometimes you have to do what you have to do right?
I would without doubt used Insulated Steel Panels for building. Prefer Panelsell CA. Watch this video by Spray Jones on how much insulation you really need: How Much Spray Foam Insulation do I need?
Awesome thanks for the tip!!
interesting, hope for the next video
Thanks I'm working on getting back to weekly videos
I hired "professionals" to install my roof and they screwed things up so badly I had to fire them and finish it myself (with the help of my wife). We elected not to install the insulation on the remainder of the roof and I hired an insulation company to come in and install it (with additional fiberglass) after the fact.
That roof install is tough! Good on you for finishing it, I've been very happy with my roll insulation now that I've figured out all the issues with condensation
i'm doing 10 x 10 doors i some times worry they are too short but my build would allow high doors without making the building taller for 10 more grand
That totally makes sense. They are not bad, but definitely wish I would have put at least 1 bigger door in
No one ever tells you what a HUGE problem with condensation is with steel buildings. I run a dehumidifier all winter in my storage barn. ……You will still have the same problem with wood framing because the problem is with the metal roof and siding..
Yep I had no clue
How has the mini split system helped with condensation?
Seems like it. The mini split has been spectacular, love it so much and it is super efficient
Just curious, what is the point of going higher than 14'? Aside from farmers putting extensions on their combine grain bins, I just don't know what we move around that's higher than the 13'6" legal road height.
I think it'd give you better light and also if you have large fork lifts driving in it would be helpful too.
Greetings from the UK where the idea of a 'Barndominium' creates confusion and scares the authorities.. I have been attempting to build something similar here for years and the relevant Professions here listen to me, admire my Sketchup drawings.. & I never hear from them again..
There are Steel frame building company's here but are only considered Commercial and never Residential. We are very slow to change here..
I assume when you choose a supply Partner (in the US) they will do all the Regulatory, design and permit requirement including Structural loadings.. in house..?
I wonder if an American company would design for me..?
In Designing my Build, I decided I would go with a thin PIR Composite panel (1" Kingspan RW1000 type) as my outer skin/cladding instead of bare Metal as these sheets are much easier to handle and fix than 6" thick (and actually constitute 75% of required insulation..) And then when you are weathertight, use spray foam (PU or PIR.. not breathable soft foam..) to the underside metal face (to build up to your requirement).. This should alleviate any Condensation issues.
Like you I have been unsure whether to do Framing with Wood or Metal.. I think I currently choose.. Metal (Hot.. not pressed galvanised sections..) for the quick fabrication and erection times..
I love wood (I am a Carpenter..) but I think using engineered Timber like glulam or LVL's seems to be the only real option for speed and efficiency..
Thanks for a most interesting video.
I am sorry you're having a tough time of it!
I'm sure you could contact a us based company, but I am sure the engineering requirements and licensing is different. I got the steel building company to get it engineered.
I live in a very free county so you don't need any permits to build. I built all my walls and interior structure to code along with all the other mechanicals.
I hope you can get it done, it has been really great in my experience
I wasn't clear the first five times, so could you please repeat that you had zero experience with steel buildings?
Just to remind you, I had no experience and also I still don't 🤣 if you'd like I can email you my resume but it will be blank
You’re missing J channel at the top of the man door, and on the one bay door
Yea man I know I got that put in after. WHen I was building the instructions didn't say to install the j trim as you put in the sheeting. Definitely made a lot of mistakes but I'd do it better if I did it again
With a chimney and an enclosed wood burning stove you shouldn't notice smoke inside your house
Don’t you still need electricity to to an outdoor furnace to circulate the hot water in to the house.
That's a great question, my assumption would be that it would be a larger version of a standard wood burning stove but I really don't know!
Thanks for bringing this up, I'll definitely be doing some research on it!
Great video. I plan to build the same size steel building. 37K seems reasonable. What is the name of the company that sold you the building and did that include the erection cost as well? Thanks
It was star state steel, they were great to work with, Linda is the owner, super kind and helpful lmichieli@starstatesteel.com is her email. It didn't include cost to erect, here is a breakdown to the penny of costs to get it to the point of building inside. th-cam.com/video/pfoq-IYr3SE/w-d-xo.html I'll have a complete cost breakdown soon for interior build out too as I get everything finished. Let me know if you have any questions and good luck!!
Did you mean $3,500 or $35,000 just to redo de insulation? Thanks for the video.
It would be around 35k to get spray foam in there
Respect the professionals who specialize in what you don't know. Thank you for your honesty❤. Unfortunately, you are a product of your generation. It's great that you did a D.Y.I., I only hope you clearly see how spending a tad more for expert guidance could have saved you time, money, and overlooked design choices. An expert would have questioned your satisfaction level to understand how they would help you attain your highest goal.
I respect what you're saying deeply, but I'm going to push back a little bit. I think the problem with my generation is that we leave too many things to perceived specialists. Could a tradesman have done it better? Absolutely. Would it have been easier on my end? Absolutely. The things that I gained though from figuring it out, and not giving myself a way to quit was an invaluable lesson, that I am so grateful I was able to gain. A little bit embarrassed with how pathetic my skill set was. The only way that I would have gained the skills that I now have is through failing miserably, but not giving up and trying. Again. Thanks for your insight though, and I agree my generation could use more of figuring it out while getting wisdom from those who know what they're doing.
Is a fabricated insulated structure more affordable. I know there easier to heat and cool because they’re built air tight.
Airtight pre-fab would probably be more affordable. The only thing I've heard of many of the pre-fab structure is that the build quality usually isn't as durable.
did you put a plastic sheet over your gravel before you pour the concrete?
We didn't put a plastic sheet down. We put down sand and then fine gravel and then 3/4 minus on top of the fine gravel. The excavator went all the way down. th-cam.com/video/nV_BkWr6-gc/w-d-xo.html is what it looked like at the site prep phase.
@@homesteadingbarndo surprise to see so much condensation after what you put in. I'm in Sacramento CA thinking of a 30x40x15 condensation is what's in the back of my mind, cause it does drop to 30 degrees in the winter.
@@notchit3542 Yea it was my ignorance about not knowing I needed to make sure EVERY seam was sealed up, even if it didn't appear that there was a gap in the insulation. It really needs to be air tight, and if you make sure to take your time with the vapor barrier you'll be OK. That is why I think I would suggest spray foam instead if possible, you won't have the vapor barrier issues, but if you do go with fiberglass and just really make sure you don't have gaps or areas that aren't sealed you will be good.
I think that a 15' eaves building would be a lot more manageable too, especially if it isn't windy. Good luck are you going to build it by yourself or contract it out?
@@homesteadingbarndo I'm not sure if I'm gonna erect it myself or not. Never done it before. I guess it all depends on cost of renting the heavy equipments & how long will take me, compare to if I contract it out. But I won't be able to start until 6 months from now, cause I'm still trying to finish my house. I did saw another video there's a metal roof panel " same as yours" except the roof panel has a thin layer of fabric material & glue to the panel, which suppose to stop the condensation. Is the same material they put on car's wheel well. I also thought about plywood on top of metal purlins than have the options to either use shingles or self stick roll membrane, or etc.
If you're relatively good at building things you can do it. It really helps to have an extra set of hands for the build too.
I really wish I would have watched these guys' series on how to build, it is literally everything you need to know on how to build your shop. This would have saved me so much time: th-cam.com/video/yfR-QVtGEB0/w-d-xo.html
Spray foam has many issues, if you have a roof leak you might not see it for months or years until you have a catastrophic failure. You didn’t install your insulation correctly.
That definitely makes sense. I think if someone has more experience and installs their fiberglass like a vapor barrier they would be good. Definitely user error on my part
37k for a 60x40 with the insulation
Did u buy this in 1911
190k for mine in Moncton canasa
Nope I bought in fall of 2020.
190k!?!?! You got scammed
you paid 190k just for insulation on a 2400 square foot building, are you insane ??
Where you buy your building? Thanks
i originally went for 14' garage doors on my barndo but that gave the architect(s) ... trouble let's say. it's hard to find planners/architects that can think outside the box so to speak.
What did you end up with? I couldn't find any architects to help out on the house design so I had to learn it
@@homesteadingbarndo I eventually told the guy to put a standard height residential garage door in, export everything and then terminated services.
It's so hard getting architects/planners to not think in "standard residential" terms even if you find one.
Like they seemed to have difficulty grasping the idea of "no plumbing on exterior walls". "But don't you want a window in front of the kitchen sink?" ("Why would I risk a burst pipe for the sole purpose of mindlessly staring outside while doing dishes?!") They really just can't mentally leave the train tracks.
You might have been ultimately better served by learning it yourself.
These guys draw up designs that look good on paper but aren’t practical when you build them.
if you do a bigger door you may want to re install the door some where so you have a drive thru just saying
There's no drive thru happening with my current setup but if I was smarter I would have planned for that 😂
How much did the building cost you 137k or 37k and what's the name of the factory that build it
It was 37k we got it from star state steel I did a cost breakdown video here too th-cam.com/video/pfoq-IYr3SE/w-d-xo.html
lmichieli@starstatesteel.com is the owner of the company they were great to work with
I just found your video. I am planning on building a bardo too. You mentioned you want to get a helicopter. I can tell you this. My father rebuilt helicopters for lots of the pilots that took the tourists on rides on Miami and Ft. Lauderdale Beaches. I also helped him for many years. You will need to factor in the hight of the trailer to roll it in there. My father built a two story barn. They barley fit. So figure on those doors being about 24 feet high at least. My opinion, get a separate building for it. You can't leave them outside. Of course it all depends on what type of helicopter you get. Also, my father had wheels that he put on the landing rails that he used on some of them. But if you are getting a small kit helicopter for one person they can be shorter. Do you homework. Also there are a lot of rules for aircraft. If you are not rich, rethink it.They are very expensive to upkeep.
This is really helpful thank you! I think I'll try to rent out helicopters when I start learning rather than buying one.
@homesteadingbarndo, smart about renting.
Consider consulting a tax person (maybe a tax attorney) about whether leading vs owning is a better write off for a business.
When I studied for my realtor license years ago, my teacher told us that leasing (his example was the building for a business) was a better choice, compared to owning. This could have changed in the interim, tho 😊
@khm2128 I am building this for my home. I am hoping to stay away from a mortgage at my old age. Especially in this horrible economy. I have no mortgage now. I am selling this place to build on a seven acre piece of land I have in a different state. I am a homesteader. I have been for many years. Moving to a larger piece of property means I can do more. I am on one and a third acres of land right now. Plus this new property is next to a family member. His land and my land together means that we can have cattle and sheep. Not just the chickens I have grown. Plus I have a 20X32 greenhouse ready to put up already there. I have a small greenhouse here. I have lots of different fruit trees that I have planted over the years here. I have already started planting some on that bigger property, but will be a job to plant the amount and diversity that I have here on this site. I like to have some sort of fruit all year long.
My shop I just sold was built in 1994 and it still looks brand new. The horse stalls were build 5 yours latter,and the bees have destroyed it.never again will I use woof for anything except furniture,moldings.or campfires
Thanks that's good to know. Sorry you had a bad experience with carpenter bees that sounds rough
Why not 500 gallon propane tank with a generator large enough to power most of the house?
That's a good idea for sure
Thanks, good insight. Consider a rocket mass heater, solves a few problems like, only burn for a few hours instead of constantly maintaining a flame, the mass or "thermal battery" will keep warm long after fire is out, uses a third of the wood and the rocket stove exhausts so well that there's little chance of smelling smoke.
That's an awesome suggestion thank you so much!
@@homesteadingbarndo you should reach out to "liberator rocket stove" perhaps he'd be willing to sponsor a show or two. I've done a lot of homework on rocket mass heaters and liberator is what I'll be using at the heart of my system when I start building it. I'm in New York looking at West Virginia for homestead land. I would have saved many hours of research had I found your channel sooner. I'm about halfway through your catalogue of videos and you either reinforce what I've learned or taught me new things so thank you friend!... Jay
How thin was your insulation? I typically see upwards of of 20” usually
We had 6 inch insulation for exterior walls and interior walls had the batted 2x4 insulation
@@homesteadingbarndo oh okay, I see. Thanks for the response !
Im looking at building a 40x60 shop / house soon….would you stay with 1/2 shop 1/2 house for a single guy with no jids or do you think a 1/3 - 2/3 split? Im also thinking just two bedroom / 1 bath and maybe just a half wall to seperate just that 20ft section and keep the rest open….so for example…i could build out a mezzanine and have the living room with couch tv just be open to shop area
I think it depends on what you want to do in the shop. If I had no kids I would have made way more shop, also gotta think about resale value Incase you sell it, so is the 3/2 a more marketable property or a 2 bed shop house.
@@homesteadingbarndo The more I talk with people…the more we lean. 40/60 building split in the middle. So 40/30 shop…40/30 living space
@@Numminz Sounds epic! What state are you thinking about?
@@homesteadingbarndo I live in Alaska and own three acres with a nice view. This will be my first build ever…sitting tight hoping interest rates come down even just a little.
@@homesteadingbarndo I keep wondering if I can swing as little as 20x30 living space, 20x30 midsection shared living space shared shop with mezzanine and the rest shop. I like the idea of three sections…one completely closed off for living area and a middle area of shared space that couLd have seating, tv, game area and shop storage
Ya didn't use J-trim around the openings! Seen that in the first 3 seconds of the video!
Yep! I didn't know I was supposed to put that on as I was sheeting the house! Shows how much I didn't know when I started. Got everything trimmed out now though
With a building that tall you should have put in a 16 X 16 door in the end.
That would have been a better option for sure. It was hard to get drywall sheets delivered because the openings would not fit the forklifts
If their ars Carpenter bees in your area they will destroy the wood. And they hate red iron.I know from experience. I will have a metal building or NO building. 2- 12x12 & 2) 12x14heated floors , closed cell foam and all electric in pipe. ( EMT OR PVC. Ian skylights. The same size as yours but 30' overhang's all the way around.also a waste oil heat for the shop and a split unit for the house
I wish I would have done overhang. That sounds like a great setup
You can still add them and put the RV under it. Then if you need to close them in at a later date it is much easier to do with red iron than wood. Don't forget to spray roof with closed cell foam. Hope 2023 is a good year for you and your family.
You need to be very careful with spray foam it needs to be installed correctly
That's what I've heard, that temperature is very important when installing
@@homesteadingbarndo not only that you need the right type and a person that knows how to put it on
If not done right it causes black mold
If you ever get it done do your homework and don't go with the cheapest
And for in floor heating works best with the outdoor furnace
It's popular here in shediac new Brunswick Canada
Actually I'm a iron worker and I've put plenty of structural and pre engineered buildings looks like you did a awesome job
And for the overhead doors you always put it a little bigger than what you need
Nice building can't wait till I get one 50x100 they want 249k without tax delivery and insulation
That's why I was asking where u got yours
@@homesteadingbarndo As somebody who has a lot of spray foam insulation in their house. I can tell you go with closed cell foam and make sure they spray only in lifts no greater than 2". Spray foam is expensive but it's absolutely fantastic and worth it
This year I've had lots of trouble with my rolled batted insulation because I added my windows. I really wish I would have gone that route
The structural engineering included the window calculations.... right?
Yes they have steel rough opening frames. I'm doing a video about designing with the steel company very soon
@@homesteadingbarndo Good on ya!
What state are you in?
I'm in northern Idaho
Water leaks is from not having enough vents for air to get out.
Interesting I haven't heard that before! Thanks I'll have to do some research. Do you have any good sources to learn more about this?
@@homesteadingbarndo home eaves vents . Look up roof vents and eaves vents it needs air flow in and out.
Thank you! I"ll check it out. SOmetimes I don't know the right questions to ask or that solutions exist, so comments like this are so helpful!@@D4x4Bronc
Did you go to Aliso HS?
Yep, did you?
@@homesteadingbarndo I did... About to build a Bardo myself and came across your channel. Cheers from So cal!
What year did you graduate? Also where you building?
@@homesteadingbarndo 04 Murrieta CA
You can’t run a outdoor wood boiler without electricity, it has pumps.
Good to know. I ended up putting a pellet stove in the shop and it is a game changer! It's 18 outside today but 51 in the shop and 70 in the house
How tall is the building?
22 foot to the eves and 28 foot at the peak
Why didn't you use insulated panels ?
I haven't seen anyone use insulated panels on steel like this. I've seen some newer products that act like insulated panels that have the same contours as the steel panels.
Typically people go 2 ways- either rolled fiberglass or closed cell spray foam. We went with rolled fiberglass because it was the option the company who sold us the kit could include in the sale.
Have you seen people use insulated panels? I'm sure that could work somehow, and I'd love to see what that looks like
I saw a TH-cam video the other day that a guy was using insulation panels for his. He loved them. He spoke about the condensation too.
bro if you could get those doors to florida i would buy your old doors, my shop's going up in january
I'm stuck for a little bit, but I did actually buy them from rollupdoorsdirect.com and I'm pretty sure they are in FL
@@homesteadingbarndo ok i'll check em out thanks!
You built a barn though and you need heat and you move from California to wherever it is and you’re sacrificing the smell of wood burning need to get your priorities straight there bud! Do it right or don’t do it at all?
We got it worked out eventually. th-cam.com/video/bwJQ4RoDxsg/w-d-xo.html
I think I need some rich uncles to send me some inheritence so I can keep up with all the expensive priorities I need getting done. :D
Then just trade them out with the door supplier and get taller ones
I wish i could do a swap, they're in florida so it'd cost a fortune to get them shipped back
30K I would it be easier and cheaper to heat and insulate a wood structure
Spray foam costs would be the same regardless of the build materials. In today's market it is probably cheaper to do wood because lumber has come down in price so much.
"... another thing is, I wanna get a helicopter at some point...", he said nonchalantly.
Gotta dream it! Just need to find a million or so dollars that I can use
Not exactly
You don't have all your trim on your doors. You just not know what your doing it's easy
Yep I didn't trim it out as I was putting the metal on like I should have.
what about a alcohol heater
I've never heard of those, how does that work?
…a helicopter…??? I subbed for Heli videos…lol. …and I am in the planning stages for my own building someday…
I'm working on the helicopter! Just need 700K lol
What are you planning, post frame or steel
No door header on that doori noticed in 1st two minutes
Yea I didn't trim it out the right way, but got it all set now 🤣
@@homesteadingbarndo I've built hundreds of prefabricated buildings. I actually miss doing them.the trim is what made the buildings look nice. Some of the trim could be pretty tricky.but since it's metal precision is much more difficult
@@Herecomesthethruth yea definitely agree, I didn't know what I was doing and so it was much harder to figure out than it should have been
How much did you save by erecting the building yourself?
Probably saved around 24k, I did get quotes as high as 38k to have it built but I think I probably would have paid somewhere around 24k if I shopped around.
Trouble was too there was no one available to build for at least 6-8 months because everyone was so busy. This is changing with the market I'm sure
Start young on your endless project.
It is an endless project for sure!
spray foam is a fire risk you would have had to put plywood up all around 8 foot up atleast
I had no idea about that! Thanks for letting me know, that would have been insane expensive back when I built but prices are better now
have to be fired rated plywood not to burn...or use a liner panel
@@jon-qd4gb yep we are doing sheet rock
@@homesteadingbarndo metal studs n add extra itch if possible