+ Itmechanicus- This in my mind is the classic quintessential New England understatement. It reminds me of spending time with my Grandfather and Great Grandfather. If it was worth their time telling; bet my bottom dollar it was worth my time to listen. I remember two story's among others my Grandfather told about welding an a fuel tank with gas inside and another story and about how tires looked while traveling 100 mph. My favorite was Great Grandfather's telling about how things were done while building the Kangamangus Highway. GunBlue490 harkens to a style that is timelessly classic. While slightly out of vogue with the masses taste for consumption currently it is no less relevant. Let us hope that we are witness to a return of sorts were "nothing changes under the sun" and people will once again see the value of eloquence in succinct meaningful conversation. GunBlue490, don't be concerned or apologetic in your approach or how your message is received. You ARE In your wheel house you Sir, and have brought me closer to home from the shores of Japan. My God continue to bestow his blessings upon you.
I've been a firearms user since childhood, and a reloader for 40+ years. It is only in the last year or so I have started to immerse myself in the wealth of information, and disinformation, available on TH-cam. I absolutely love this gentleman. I may already know much of what I'm viewing but I also am always open to learning or relearning. GunBlue490 presents all the truths without the hype in the most calming, straight forward, matter of fact way imaginable. I've got to wonder how my life, or others' lives would have been changed to have had this man as a school teacher, mentor, or Master serving an apprentice under. One of these cold winter days I'm just going to hit the rack and binge watch every video this man has made. I'd consider it time well spent.
Absolutely love this guy. Very intelligent and so easy to listen to. I'm 23 and relatively new into reloading and while my dad who's been reloading for 35 years has been a great teacher for reloading, you are my #2 guy keep it up!
You are an outstanding young man ! I have watch a few mark dice vids interviewing people on the beach in L.A. ! People don't know anything ! And if they knew that they didn't know anything they would know something !
Hi, You are a living national treasure! I'm a retired engineer. After leaving the demands of work, my son suggested taking up hand loading as a hobby. So I did. I was shocked at how involved hand loading really is, if done properly. You and a few other web instructors have been invaluable in my journey to become a hand loader. Thank you so much for passing along your hand loading skills. HAPPY NEW YEAR! Shalom/gw
I recently started unfortunately lol. Bad time to start these days do to price and availability. But I find it very calming and enjoyable. Keeps me thinking. I'm a operator in oil and gas so as if my job didn't keep me thinking enough lol. Oh well it works for me also. Very interesting and cool hobby
Primers are hard to get now! I'm pretty much stuck with whatever brand of primer I can find these days! Thank You for your very insightful video! God bless you all!
The amount of usable knowledge is just amazing. Please continue this and I hope TH-cam leaves these videos up. I consider these also about safety, which is most important.
Captain you speak the absolute truth! A guy down at my local gun range substituted Magnum primers with a faster ball powder load that was already a heavy powder throw. He was down at our range and it was 100° and discharged his rifle which resulted in a case head separation and a wrecked bolt. He learned pretty quickly to pay heed to the Cardinal rule! Make no substitutions is right!
Expert knowledge presented in a no nonsense manner that a layman can understand. Incredible amount of information packed into video. Top of the line video, without annoying and distracting background music "noise". WELL DONE SIR!
I am a retired Automotive Instructor and your videos are not only educational, but a great source of what its like to be passionate in a specif area and a follower of god! How refreshing to learn this reloading with information with 40+ years of experience. I am just starting to reload and am looking for honest unbias information that is accurate. Very easy to follow-great teaching methods. Way to go!
I dabbled with reloading a couple years ago, moved and never set up my bench at the new house. Watching a couple of your videos answered SO many questions I always had. Thank you for sharing your knowledge Sir.
I'm learning as much about how much I need to learn as I am about primers, rifling, or whichever of his topics I happen to be watching. Who'd have thought that a New Englander sitting at his bench and just talking would be so fascinating.
No-one was ever able to explain the difference in magnum primers (CCI-250) and standard rifle primers (CCI-200) to me until I watched this. Very informative! Thanks for sharing your knowledge, it is truly invaluable.
Great review. I've learned all of this but not in one place. There is so much more to talk on. But it wouldn't all fit into an hour program. All good info.
How refreshing to meet a man who's not obsessed with looking and acting "tactical". Completely unaffected and very understandable. Knowledgeable and trustworthy--we need more men like you on this site! You're becoming my 'go-to' U-toob guy. I bet you don't own even one bit of 'camo' gear!
Very nicely done and helpful as well. Been reloading 58 years and still don't know it all by far! Lots of new stuff to learn as well as forgetting what's not true anymore. I especially found the difference between Lg and Sm pistol primers in Lg pistol cases such as 45 ACP useful. Anything for a tad more accuracy! Also appreciated cutting thru the fog on magnum and "standard" primers. Good job!
Just started watching your channel regularly, really enjoy it. You are meticulous and professional, at my age (72), I have the utmost respect for those character traits. Well Done Sir, keep up the great work!
This is about the best descriptive on primers you can find on the net....period. I've been at hand loading and bullet casting since I was probably pre-teen and over those many years I've learned a ton. The love of guns, shooting, hunting and reloading turned into a vast law enforcement career over the years and a vast cornucopia of learning. At almost 63, I've heard a ton of the "old wives tales" that GunBlue comments on....and dispels btw. His videos are straight forward and they explain the ups & downs of shooting & reloading in a down to earth way......for the lay person to understand. You can't go wrong following this man......;)
I'm just an ordinary shooter who shoot a lot. Plinking and hunting. Been loading for over 50 years. Have learned some stuff from you, some I understand and some over my head. You do a very good job . Thanks
I’ve been reloading for 43 years and I learned a lot from this video! Well done! You should do reloading classes, especially with all the new reloaders in the past several years. Heck, I’d take a class from you!
Getting back to reloading after years away from it. Limbering up all my equipment and looking for knowledgeable people to augment what I remember and what I read. I'm happy to find this channel. Now - to find all your videos. Thank you for sharing years of expertise..
I find I learn something new or open a new food for thought to consider. So often youtube videos are by people I even know are ignorant of their subject or its all about watching them shoot at the range basically. Recommend this channel to friends for good comprehensive information. I am an retired teacher and can tell he has made many presentations in the past .
The warning for W296/H110 powder you were trying to remember is not to decrease loads more than 3%. It's a great powder for full power factory duplicate loads but not for reduced-charge plinking or cowboy action loads. Choose another powder. Too many people try to use one powder for everything. The part about all makers using the same mixture for primers has not been true for some time although all must meet SAAMI specifications. The move to less toxic primers free of heavy metals like lead, barium, antimony and nickel forced manufacturers to come up with new compounds like those used in car air bags. It's also why the nickel disappeared from some brands. Many makers patented their version. Primer mixtures have three components: the initiator (shock-sensitive explosive), oxidizer, and fuel. The combination determines the sensitivity, intensity, heat and burn time of the primer. The paper in the primer cup serves multiple purposes. It helps hold the primer pellet in place. It's foil-backed and sealed with lacquer which helps keep out moisture. The foil burns after ignition which provides long-lasting white-hot metal sparks to help ignite the most insensitive powder without increasing the gas yield significantly. It's not just the manufacturer's nomenclature that's different. Remington 1-1/2 small pistol primers come with a warning, “Do not use 1½ small pistol primers in high intensity pistol cartridges such as the .357 Magnum, .357 SIG and the .40 S&W. Damage to your firearm and/or personal injury may result.” You must use their magnum primers for those cartridges. From what I understand, the difference is the cup brass thickness not the primer mix. Other makers' small pistol primers do not have this limitation.
I just got into reloading and tried to find so information of all the components and found this video! Awesome Sir! Thanks for sharing your experience! I learned a lot! All the best!
Had some primers burn, a pin hole through at the outer edge. These had been purchased during the last primer shortage. Upon inspection of my unused lot, there were those that were very flat and had a sharp transition to the cup's outer edge. There were others nicely rounded. It was very evident that the manufacturing set up was not consistent. So the manufacturer was very considerate and allowed me to return them and compensated me as well. Having one or more failures, etched the bolt face of my rifle. For the most part, the manufacturers of the components that we use do a great job!
A vacuum sealer is a must for reloading, in my opinion. I vacuum seal projectiles and primers. I think powder is fine in it's container with a tight lid and stored in the correct conditions.
I absolutely agree. Never for powder is that would be a damn dangerous thing to do. But I do vacuum seal everything else that goes into long-term storage. Bits, pieces and parts. Molds and dies that aren't used routinely. And most especially for lots of ammunition that I plan to keep for long-term storage. I shield them in practical quantities by cartridge along with a moisture absorber. Even ammunition that is going to be stored for short time I put into the A reseelable bag that you can get. I've even vacuum sealed an old revolver that no longer functions but I keep it for sentimental reasons since it was given to me as a kid.
You did a very good job educating me on learning about primers to an elevated level. Ive been reloading on and off for over 30 years. I only knew the very basics it seems. Good video!
Hi from the UK. I’ve been watching GB490 for about a year or so now. It’s seems to me to be top drawer advice and entertainment . The other non gun related videos which pop up occasionally are worth watching too. Sit down with a good scotch, a cigar and enjoy.
As a new comer to the sport of shooting & hand loading , this video was the most informative by far. I’m probably going to have to pull my most recent 200 + rounds because of improperly stored primers. Thanks for your time.
Proverbs 27:17 Iron sharpeneth iron; So a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend. Whoso keepeth the fig tree shall eat the fruit thereof: So he that waiteth on his master shall be honoured. Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
I love what you had to say about the use of H110. I use it a lot in my 454 Casull firearms and one thing I noticed with it is that the best most consistent velocities were achieved when I was loading to the max book data and beyond. My personal load for my own hard cast Linotype bullets is 32.5 gr H110 and a CCI 400 primer. With this load being shot from my Browning High Wall 1885 in 454 Casull I get an average velocity of 2050 fps with an extreme spread of only 10-15 fps, every once in a while the ES will be in the single digits amongst a 20 round sample. All of the 454 Casull brass I have uses small rifle primers which to my understanding the reason they did that instead of a large pistol or magnum pistol primer is because of the pressures generated could potentially dislodge the primer from the case.
Thank you so much for these vids!!! This is my third year of hand loading... I feel like you're talking just to me... I learn so much from you.. I followed a certain loading manual. I was loading a 454 with H110. I had two squibs and a lot of misfires!! The two squibs the powder was burnt and looked melted into a blueberry sized ball left in the casing!!! Will NEVER use H110 again... I use 2400 and Titegroup.. for this caliber.. No issues.
A bit more experienced than the first time I watched this video. Had to come back for a refresher course now that I’ve loaded a few thousands rounds...and primers are scare. Always a treat, and I pick up something that I didn’t quite capture on the first pass.
Very thorough information and well presented. You need to take a little bit of time to go through this, though, but it's worth the while. I leave with a much better understanding on primers and valuable clarifications on common myth and misconceptions. Thank you for creating and sharing!
One issue I had with my .338LM was with Russian "Muron" brand Magnum primers which would hang fire as if you were shooting a percussion rifle, hopeless for accuracy. Muron LR Primers were excellent, consistent performers in my .22/250 as were any American made Magnum primers later used in the .338LM. Another helpful and factual video, thank you Sir!
Good treatise on selection and use of primers by reloaders. One of your rules really impressed me, because I am the lone ranger in advising case preparers in reloading, NOT to mill or carve on the "membrane" of the case formed by the bottom of the primer cup, or as you say "primer bucket" and the bottom of the inside of the case. It is this membrane that is pierced by the flash hole (.080" dia.) on most all 70-30 brass case designs, large, small, pistol, rifle, etc. You said be careful with the flash hole deburring too,l so as not to try to bevel the exit of the flash hole into the case powder cavity, because removing material there can have consequencies. There is an insidious tool in use by many reloaders called the Primer Pocket Uniformer (PPU). This device removes material from the other side of the membrane at the entrance of flash hole ie. the bottom of the primer pocket or "primer bucket."It provides a method for improving the looks the bottom of the primer pocket by milling off enough brass to show bright and shiny metal. It is basically a hand operated end mill. Its original intent was to set the depth of the primer pocket to a uniform depth. It only works in one direction, that is deepening the pocke,t not making it more shallow. By using it to remove material from the membrane or web of the case head, it is weakening the radial stress supporting structure of the case head. That should be enough said, but many old timers say there is no evidence that removing that material weakens the structure. If that part of the case fails (it would be near peak chamber pressure), the catastrophic failure of the case head (practically unsupported raidially by rimless cartridge chambers at that chamber station) will be lost in the ensuing carnage. Case head structural failure that starts with a crack in the web or membrane, often causes the web and the primer cup to vaporize and be replated back through the wrecked bolt as the plasma cools down.
I use the Lee handheld primer tool for my pistol cases and being a master toolmaker use my Mitutoya depth indicator for checking seating depth. Haven't bought a progressive loader yet, but still use my RCBS I've had for 52 years. Even the books I have from back then, Speer #6, 1964 were compared to my Speer #12, 1995 when I bought the Lee Anniversary set in 1997... All data on reloads is on 3x5 cards and in "Excel" format and kept with the box of shells. Additionally all the shells are kept together for using again in lots to keep track of the number of times reloaded. As for pocket diameters I use guage pins for identifying tolerance and primer fitment.....cheers.
Gee, you’re a great instructor; I have learned much. BTW, when so was on a Navy team shooting the 1911, we used magnum primers with Green Dot on advice of those RCBS fellows since that shotgun powder is slow burning and all the grains need to be ignited at once to burn by the end of the pistol barrel. Oh, my, they were accurate loads.
Great information, I may be going a little overboard with my brass but I do the inside trim like you suggested but after firing, I will use a RCBS primer pocket cleaning brush to clean out all the residue from the spent primer, may also help in getting a better fit when re-priming.
you're a heck of a teacher. thanks for what you do. I hope to hear you do some more coverage on plated bullets and how are you arrive at the proper load data for safety.
To GunBlue.Thanks again for putting together an informative video on primers.Always great to get info from someone who has had a passion for firearms for such a long time and studied issues from a logical perspective You are a true blessing to the gun industry and Im sure everyone appreciates the time you put into telling us how it is.Cheers andGod Bless.
Another informative loading video from a knowledgeable and credible man. I have learned a lot about the handloading and firearm 'business' from you. Bless you for sharing your information.
I’m in awe! GunBlue490, I tip my hat to you. Thorough, eloquently delivered doctoral dissertation on a critical topic, and so very timely to me as I prepare to load my very first rifle cartridges, .300 AAC Blackout. I have new cases, I have new dies, and I have one box of bullets (thank you Hornady). No trimming tool, no powder, no primers. Doing all I can to learn before dropping money unnecessarily. I need to rewatch this video, just to be sure I didn’t miss anything, but you gave me as much instruction on rifle cartridge preparation as you did on primer selection and seating. Subscribed. Thank you!
Gunblue490, thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and experience. Your posts are highly informative and truly enjoyable. A gifted instructor.
Another great summary of common sense reloading info!Here in Canada if I were to buy Winchester primers, they are designated as both regular and magnum on the box.You didn't mention the Berdan vs. Boxer in any detail. Not usually an issue unless you get range brass. Same with crimped primer pockets. Likely covered in your case prep video.
toy collector As in Canada, Winchester large pistol primers are designated in the US as dual purpose. Their large rifle primers are separately designated. The last thing I wanted to do was dissect the confounding and confusing individual offerings of each company. Rather, my intent was to educate, so that anyone, regardless of product individualities, would be armed with knowledge to intelligently make the appropriate assessments. I follow this theme fairly throughout my series of videos, because far more is gained by learning about how guns tick than examining wee specific brands that are typically the same features in a different lipstick color from one maker to another. Despite the countless offerings, and the many advertizing claims, there isn't much noteworthy difference between one brand of gun or ammo and another. Further, this video is for all-time, and as such, I confine my remarks to facts that relate to specific purposes, rather than specific brand models and packaging that can and do change over time. No, I did not cover Berdan primers in this video, which is really off-topic, and of little interest to my following. Except for an extremely small segment of the ammunition market in the US, Berdan primers are obsolete, and it doesn't take long for most folks to discover that they are not (conventionally) reloaded. I could go further in saying that they are Third World junk, but I won't say that.
You know, I saw 42 minutes to discuss primers and thought, uggg english lit class! :) but it was another wonderful dissertation on my favorite subject.....gunznstuff!, Thanks, Gerry
gerry mckown Well, I must give credit to my beloved English lit and grammar teacher, Miss Daryll Henderson, who burned into my soul, "specificity!" A word that has guided me since. God bless her for that, wherever she may be.
Thank you so much, in this time of ammo drought, primers cannot be found, I was wondering about the information you so generously provided, I decided to be cautious, not substitute one for the other. Luckily I obtained supplies while the prices were good and materials were available,
Nice video! I read that the NATO primers are heavier duty for use in semi-auto's with floating firing pins so if the firing pin bumps the primer it will not discharge.
Thanks for the info. . I had a misfire on a 209 primer and I appreciated the word" fresh" you used when talking about misfires. I don't think the ones I was using were very fresh and were likely stored damp.
Great, accurate video. The only item I would challenge is the "military primers not required"; while this is true for bolt action rifles, it is not the case for autoloading military rifles like the M1 Carbine or AR15. These guns were designed without firing pin return springs for battlefield reliability; you can feel the firing pin "float" back and forth. When the next round is loaded, the free-floating pin will lightly strike the primer, as can be seen by removing the cartridge before firing and seeing the light dent in the primer. The military primers have an extra-thick case to prevent accidental detonation while loading. Standard primers, especially pistol, are too thin to take this. Hence, always only put two test loads in a magazine. The possibility of a full magazine of standard pistol primers going into full-auto (even with the finger off the trigger!) is why people were advised not to reload M1 carbine ammo. CCI would not have gone to the bother of creating a separate product if it was not needed, please use as intended. Bill Brick.
Another great video Sir! I have one comment regarding the CCI #41 "NATO" spec military primers. You mentioned they were designed for the higher pressures of military ammo. This may be correct, but my understanding was they are made with thicker or harder cups; the reasoning being to reduce the chances of slam fires in military rifles with free floating firing pins. I use them in my AR15 and M16/M4 rifles. I'm sure you know this, but if you look at the primers on an unfired round that has previously been chambered (with force) in one of these rifles you will see a dimple in the primer where the firing pin has struck it with a fair amount of force. In rare instances this can cause the rifle to fire when using softer primers. I've been reloading since 1975 and I am still learning new things. I love your videos. They are well laid out and thorough. Thank you.
I have heard the same thing, and have been concerned as well when switching to any other type. Can't remember where, but I read an article about different brands and hardness/thickness ratings for this issue with ar's! I do appreciate learning, that I should use mag's for my 454 with H-110. I have a bunch loaded up and will be watching for squibs... Great listening here! Thanks..
The last thing I do when developing a cartridge load is to try all the different primers I have to see if my groups will shrink. I am mindful of where I am at in regards to max powder charge. Sometimes I’ll work up to my load while trying different primer brands.
Howdy, lots of depth to your well of knowledge. Thanks for sharing. Knowledge not shared is knowledge lost. I know you may have an answer for me on this particular issue: Im reloading .30 carbine for m1. Imeasured the primer height .094 -.098”( my caliber) from spent casings ( three different brands). Same height as spp. Now im confused. So i pulled and measured primer from my .222 rem.; .108.” Now the pockets: .30 carbine .120”
Good video. Thanks However for those who wish to achieve bench rest accuracy, there is more to be learned. Precision Shooting Magazine, some years back, did a in depth analysis of primers. One worth researching. Gun Blue did refer to accuracy being effected by primer changes and gave good advice when he said stick with one make and type. In BPCR (Black Powder Cartridge Rifle) shooting, typically 45-70, we achieve more consistent combustion when we use large pistol primers with a newspaper disk over the primer. So depending on the sensitivity of the density of the powder and the ignition propagation, primers can make a big difference. In some instances when shooting a Cartridge that has Large Rifle Primer pocket like the 38-55, it pays to sleeve the primer pocket to accept a small primer to reduce the flash when using Black Powder
You never cease to amaze me, and I thank you for that. You've been reloading for 45 years, I've been reloading for 37 years. Your videos confirm all I've learned over the years and I enjoy renewing/revisiting information. Your presentation is perfect and "off the cuff", great stuff!! I reload for 4 rifles, 223, 22-250, 45-70 and 45-120. The first 3 use standard primers (small in the 223 of course) and the 45-120 uses magnum primers. Only on one occasion have I had an "oops" situation and that was loading the 120 with standard primers. The 120 uses BP exclusively and there would not have been a major problem because it is only used for "wow" factor, boom, smoke and flame, plus a smile on my face, lol. But after I'd loaded 50 I realised my mistake and pulled all pills, unloaded powder and fired off the primers, replaced them with the magnum primers and felt good. Was quite messy with the lube, but life's like that. Didn't forgive myself for a long time and had to go back to the double check which I do even today. This video has prompted me to do some further experimentation using different primers with my set loads in the 250 as it is my favourite rifle for both pests and at the range, just to see how much of a difference the primers make. Never considered it before as I've always had access to the same primers. Reloading is all about experimentation and you have just planted the seed required for investigation. Many many thanks to you, cheers from downunder :)
I have used magnum primers when loading 223 with the motion that double base ball powder needed it like w 748. I'll have to try non magnum. I do have some very good loads with them. I'll try non magnum, see what happens.
If you are just getting started in reloading...take his wise advice especially on the purchase of a loading manual...’Modern Reloading by Richard Lee’ is a good one to start with.
This was a great video, I have never enlarged the primer hole. I have wondered if there was an advantage 🤔 I'm so glad you set me straight and I'm buying regular primers for my 350 legend, maybe match? Thank you so much.
I had issues in igniting vihtavuori n-105 with a Fiocchi small pistol primer in my 357Mag loads, had powder residues on the table and was 100m/sec slower than expected even after optimizing crimping with Lee Factory crimping die. Using a CCI Small Rifle primer fixed the issue. In my experience, there are powders which are very difficult to ignite, especially in long cases, the specific load may require different combination of components.
Glad to have stumbled onto this channel! I've used Winchester primers almost exclusively throughout the last 20 years. I can count the problems I've had on one hand and that's lucky, because I don't like to re-chase that accurate load... Keep up the good work!
Small note.... sometimes you NEED a magnum rifle primer in specific rounds when greater than 45 grains. Specifically when loading a Japense 7.7x58mm pushing a 180 grain bullet with a double base powder like accurate 2700. That is from the powder manufacturer. I was told the same thing you said here about magnum primers and ended up with some unfortunate click boom situations and low pressure issues. CALL THE POWDER MANUFACTURER if you have any questions. He was 100% right about that.
John Milewski Be aware too, that with pistol primers, Winchester for instance makes no distinction. Their pistol primers were developed for either standard or magnum cartridges, and are simply large pistol, which is very handy for the multi caliber loader. Thanks for watching.
I’m new to reloading and find myself taking notes to your videos. Thank you for taking the time help people like me to suck up so much info. Today’s world we can’t get powder or primers, so learning thru your experiences surely helps us save time and money. I do have a question.I have been trying to buy small pistol primers over a year, I live in socialist California cannot find any small pistol primers. Could I use small rifle magnum Primers from CCI for my Sigg P320 9mm? I think I know the answer, but I’m desperate and want to reach out.
The reason I ask about Berdan primers is the man who taught me reloading left me a lot of military brass with Berdan primers. As you said there is a tool for removing them and I have one. In this video you talked about primer seating and fit, since the primer pocket is larger after removing the Berdan do I have to be selective of what primers I use? When my friend was teaching me we only used CCI primers in this brass. Being a novice at that time and even though he had been reloading since the 40s he never said anything about primer fit. We just shot to punch holes in paper. As I got older I got more interested for the hunting aspect. This military brass is more thick walled than civilian brass so it takes pressures better. That's why my concern in primer types for it. Sorry to be so long winded but after a 20 year lapse in reloading I'm beginning to get interested again and finding your channel was like waking up at Christmas or for a birthday.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I have been reloading for quite a while although not as long as you have but I am always wanting to know more and the more I learn the more I realize that I don't know ha. As you mentioned about the large and small primers in the. 45 was interesting I have a friend I wouldn't doubt it if you know him that I asked the same question about the. 45 primers and he said that back in the day 1911s were built sloppy for reliability in the military and large primers were more of a guarantee that the firing pin would hit the primers. Now that they are made with tighter tolerances the large primers are no longer necessary. Perhaps your explanations are more accurate thanks again for all the Information. PS Ron Power is the friend I am referring to Allen
Hi John, thanks for the response about primers. I have been reloading shotshells since I was 12. I am now 69. I those days I used felt wads because I could not yet get plastic wads and cup holders for 16 gauge. I always followed the load recipes, so I never had a safety issue. The only problems I ever had was getting the crimp right on paper cases. A bad crimp would sometimes open up and you would lose the shot before firing the case. Now I am looking to reload 7mm-08 and possibly 280 AI, if I can find a rifle for the 280AI chambering. Perhaps you could go over safety concerns in a new video, now that reloading componets are hard to come by and I believe people are switching between different components such as brass, primers, and even bullets. Maybe you could add something on fire-forming cases? Thanks again, I enjoy listening to all of your videos and learn something new each time.
In a pinch ive used small rifle in a small pistol case many of times..I just back the charge down .75-1.0 of a grain and they work flawlessly. And I have tried to watch so many of your videos but you make them sooooooo long and I just haven't been able to make it through any of them.
Hi GunBlue490,I have just today found your sight and I a Very impressed with you detailed explanations of all aspects in reloading. I have been reloading for about 40 years and you have given me a few pointers that I didn't know about. Thanks Heaps. Cheers from Rod, in Australia.
jason anders They all suffer at about the same degree. What must be considered is that 150 grain bullets are very short and stubby, and rely on velicity to punch through, whereas 140 grain 7mm bullets are long with sectional density that performs better at diminished velocities. The 308 requires a 165 grain bullet to acheive equal sectional density, which the 308 drives at about 100 fps less, but with far greater recoil. All in all, both are superior deer cartridges, and kill deer equally dead, and have bullets of equal sectional density available to them, but at quite different prices of recoil. Short barreled carbines are not typically used for larger game or longer ranges, so considerations of larger game capabilities with larger bore diameter are moot.
Wonderful information. But one thing I wish you would have covered is how to effectively destroy a primer that didn't load right on a press or you just want to discard a primer to get rid of. I've always flooded them with an ammonia based product. But what you use. Thanks for insightful knowledge.
0:12 "There aren't too many things to know about primers."...42 minute run time...this is why I love this channel.
+ Itmechanicus- This in my mind is the classic quintessential New England understatement.
It reminds me of spending time with my Grandfather and Great Grandfather. If it was worth their time telling; bet my bottom dollar it was worth my time to listen.
I remember two story's among others my Grandfather told about welding an a fuel tank with gas inside and another story and about how tires looked while traveling 100 mph. My favorite was Great Grandfather's telling about how things were done while building the Kangamangus Highway.
GunBlue490 harkens to a style that is timelessly classic. While slightly out of vogue with the masses taste for consumption currently it is no less relevant. Let us hope that we are witness to a return of sorts were "nothing changes under the sun" and people will once again see the value of eloquence in succinct meaningful conversation.
GunBlue490, don't be concerned or apologetic in your approach or how your message is received. You ARE In your wheel house you Sir, and have brought me closer to home from the shores of Japan. My God continue to bestow his blessings upon you.
@@jamesgilman1192A lot of old guys from the east coast have an extra level of not talking BS.
I've been a firearms user since childhood, and a reloader for 40+ years. It is only in the last year or so I have started to immerse myself in the wealth of information, and disinformation, available on TH-cam. I absolutely love this gentleman. I may already know much of what I'm viewing but I also am always open to learning or relearning. GunBlue490 presents all the truths without the hype in the most calming, straight forward, matter of fact way imaginable. I've got to wonder how my life, or others' lives would have been changed to have had this man as a school teacher, mentor, or Master serving an apprentice under. One of these cold winter days I'm just going to hit the rack and binge watch every video this man has made. I'd consider it time well spent.
Absolutely love this guy. Very intelligent and so easy to listen to. I'm 23 and relatively new into reloading and while my dad who's been reloading for 35 years has been a great teacher for reloading, you are my #2 guy keep it up!
you keep on watching this man. He knows his stuff, more importantly he is willing to share what he has learned.
You are an outstanding young man !
I have watch a few mark dice vids interviewing people on the beach in L.A. ! People don't know anything ! And if they knew that they didn't know anything they would know something !
Keep ur ears open an mouth mainly shut and keep at it young buck ull b ok
He is great.. he doesn’t push on one brand over another. He just shares years of information from the heart. Thanks
Every time I listen to you, I learn something of value.
Hi, You are a living national treasure! I'm a retired engineer. After leaving the demands of work, my son suggested taking up hand loading as a hobby. So I did. I was shocked at how involved hand loading really is, if done properly. You and a few other web instructors have been invaluable in my journey to become a hand loader. Thank you so much for passing along your hand loading skills. HAPPY NEW YEAR! Shalom/gw
I recently started unfortunately lol. Bad time to start these days do to price and availability. But I find it very calming and enjoyable. Keeps me thinking. I'm a operator in oil and gas so as if my job didn't keep me thinking enough lol. Oh well it works for me also. Very interesting and cool hobby
Primers are hard to get now! I'm pretty much stuck with whatever brand of primer I can find these days! Thank You for your very insightful video!
God bless you all!
The amount of usable knowledge is just amazing. Please continue this and I hope TH-cam leaves these videos up. I consider these also about safety, which is most important.
Captain you speak the absolute truth! A guy down at my local gun range substituted Magnum primers with a faster ball powder load that was already a heavy powder throw. He was down at our range and it was 100° and discharged his rifle which resulted in a case head separation and a wrecked bolt. He learned pretty quickly to pay heed to the Cardinal rule! Make no substitutions is right!
Expert knowledge presented in a no nonsense manner that a layman can understand. Incredible amount of information packed into video. Top of the line video, without annoying and distracting background music "noise". WELL DONE SIR!
I am a retired Automotive Instructor and your videos are not only educational, but a great source of what its like to be passionate in a specif area and a follower of god! How refreshing to learn this reloading with information with 40+ years of experience. I am just starting to reload and am looking for honest unbias information that is accurate.
Very easy to follow-great teaching methods.
Way to go!
I dabbled with reloading a couple years ago, moved and never set up my bench at the new house. Watching a couple of your videos answered SO many questions I always had. Thank you for sharing your knowledge Sir.
"Unseemly in it's conduct"!! I love your mastery of the english language! Thanks for the video!
I'm learning as much about how much I need to learn as I am about primers, rifling, or whichever of his topics I happen to be watching. Who'd have thought that a New Englander sitting at his bench and just talking would be so fascinating.
No-one was ever able to explain the difference in magnum primers (CCI-250) and standard rifle primers (CCI-200) to me until I watched this. Very informative! Thanks for sharing your knowledge, it is truly invaluable.
Great review. I've learned all of this but not in one place. There is so much more to talk on. But it wouldn't all fit into an hour program. All good info.
Thank you so much for this info on primers, I was confused about all the different #’s and could never find answers, now I have them THANK YOU!
How refreshing to meet a man who's not obsessed with looking and acting "tactical". Completely unaffected and very understandable. Knowledgeable and trustworthy--we need more men like you on this site! You're becoming my 'go-to' U-toob guy.
I bet you don't own even one bit of 'camo' gear!
Best source of knowledge for reloading on the internet! Great teacher 👍👍👍
Very nicely done and helpful as well. Been reloading 58 years and still don't know it all by far! Lots of new stuff to learn as well as forgetting what's not true anymore. I especially found the difference between Lg and Sm pistol primers in Lg pistol cases such as 45 ACP useful. Anything for a tad more accuracy! Also appreciated cutting thru the fog on magnum and "standard" primers. Good job!
Just started watching your channel regularly, really enjoy it. You are meticulous and professional, at my age (72), I have the utmost respect for those character traits. Well Done Sir, keep up the great work!
This is about the best descriptive on primers you can find on the net....period. I've been at hand loading and bullet casting since I was probably pre-teen and over those many years I've learned a ton. The love of guns, shooting, hunting and reloading turned into a vast law enforcement career over the years and a vast cornucopia of learning. At almost 63, I've heard a ton of the "old wives tales" that GunBlue comments on....and dispels btw. His videos are straight forward and they explain the ups & downs of shooting & reloading in a down to earth way......for the lay person to understand. You can't go wrong following this man......;)
I'm just an ordinary shooter who shoot a lot. Plinking and hunting. Been loading for over 50 years. Have learned some stuff from you, some I understand and some over my head. You do a very good job .
Thanks
I’ve been reloading for 43 years and I learned a lot from this video! Well done! You should do reloading classes, especially with all the new reloaders in the past several years. Heck, I’d take a class from you!
I've been reloading off and on since I was 16 and am now 69! Always something new to learn!
Getting back to reloading after years away from it. Limbering up all my equipment and looking for knowledgeable people to augment what I remember and what I read. I'm happy to find this channel. Now - to find all your videos. Thank you for sharing years of expertise..
I find I learn something new or open a new food for thought to consider. So often youtube videos are by people I even know are ignorant of their subject or its all about watching them shoot at the range basically. Recommend this channel to friends for good comprehensive information. I am an retired teacher and can tell he has made many presentations in the past .
I started typing you a huge long question and by the time I was done typing you had answered it just as I was finished lol.
As a 70yo, "considering" getting into reloading, this Gentleman is awesome!
WOW, such knowledge.......
Its never to late to start. I been loading 50 years STILL LEARNING
The warning for W296/H110 powder you were trying to remember is not to decrease loads more than 3%. It's a great powder for full power factory duplicate loads but not for reduced-charge plinking or cowboy action loads. Choose another powder. Too many people try to use one powder for everything.
The part about all makers using the same mixture for primers has not been true for some time although all must meet SAAMI specifications. The move to less toxic primers free of heavy metals like lead, barium, antimony and nickel forced manufacturers to come up with new compounds like those used in car air bags. It's also why the nickel disappeared from some brands. Many makers patented their version. Primer mixtures have three components: the initiator (shock-sensitive explosive), oxidizer, and fuel. The combination determines the sensitivity, intensity, heat and burn time of the primer. The paper in the primer cup serves multiple purposes. It helps hold the primer pellet in place. It's foil-backed and sealed with lacquer which helps keep out moisture. The foil burns after ignition which provides long-lasting white-hot metal sparks to help ignite the most insensitive powder without increasing the gas yield significantly. It's not just the manufacturer's nomenclature that's different. Remington 1-1/2 small pistol primers come with a warning, “Do not use 1½ small pistol primers in high intensity pistol cartridges such as the .357 Magnum, .357 SIG and the .40 S&W. Damage to your firearm and/or personal injury may result.” You must use their magnum primers for those cartridges. From what I understand, the difference is the cup brass thickness not the primer mix. Other makers' small pistol primers do not have this limitation.
I just got into reloading and tried to find so information of all the components and found this video! Awesome Sir! Thanks for sharing your experience! I learned a lot! All the best!
Had some primers burn, a pin hole through at the outer edge. These had been purchased during the last primer shortage. Upon inspection of my unused lot, there were those that were very flat and had a sharp transition to the cup's outer edge. There were others nicely rounded. It was very evident that the manufacturing set up was not consistent. So the manufacturer was very considerate and allowed me to return them and compensated me as well. Having one or more failures, etched the bolt face of my rifle. For the most part, the manufacturers of the components that we use do a great job!
A vacuum sealer is a must for reloading, in my opinion. I vacuum seal projectiles and primers. I think powder is fine in it's container with a tight lid and stored in the correct conditions.
I absolutely agree. Never for powder is that would be a damn dangerous thing to do. But I do vacuum seal everything else that goes into long-term storage. Bits, pieces and parts. Molds and dies that aren't used routinely. And most especially for lots of ammunition that I plan to keep for long-term storage. I shield them in practical quantities by cartridge along with a moisture absorber. Even ammunition that is going to be stored for short time I put into the A reseelable bag that you can get. I've even vacuum sealed an old revolver that no longer functions but I keep it for sentimental reasons since it was given to me as a kid.
You did a very good job educating me on learning about primers to an elevated level. Ive been reloading on and off for over 30 years. I only knew the very basics it seems. Good video!
Brother, I love you! I am an advanced reloader and I always learn something from you! God Bless you and your wife!
Hi from the UK. I’ve been watching GB490 for about a year or so now. It’s seems to me to be top drawer advice and entertainment . The other non gun related videos which pop up occasionally are worth watching too. Sit down with a good scotch, a cigar and enjoy.
As a new comer to the sport of shooting & hand loading , this video was the most informative by far. I’m probably going to have to pull my most recent 200 + rounds because of improperly stored primers. Thanks for your time.
Proverbs 27:17
Iron sharpeneth iron;
So a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend.
Whoso keepeth the fig tree shall eat the fruit thereof:
So he that waiteth on his master shall be honoured.
Thank you for another wonderful lesson.
Best gun channel on TH-cam
I love what you had to say about the use of H110. I use it a lot in my 454 Casull firearms and one thing I noticed with it is that the best most consistent velocities were achieved when I was loading to the max book data and beyond. My personal load for my own hard cast Linotype bullets is 32.5 gr H110 and a CCI 400 primer. With this load being shot from my Browning High Wall 1885 in 454 Casull I get an average velocity of 2050 fps with an extreme spread of only 10-15 fps, every once in a while the ES will be in the single digits amongst a 20 round sample. All of the 454 Casull brass I have uses small rifle primers which to my understanding the reason they did that instead of a large pistol or magnum pistol primer is because of the pressures generated could potentially dislodge the primer from the case.
Thank you so much for these vids!!! This is my third year of hand loading... I feel like you're talking just to me... I learn so much from you.. I followed a certain loading manual. I was loading a 454 with H110. I had two squibs and a lot of misfires!! The two squibs the powder was burnt and looked melted into a blueberry sized ball left in the casing!!! Will NEVER use H110 again... I use 2400 and Titegroup.. for this caliber.. No issues.
i never cared for H110 in my 44 Rem mag or 22Hornet. Nothing special about H110.
A bit more experienced than the first time I watched this video. Had to come back for a refresher course now that I’ve loaded a few thousands rounds...and primers are scare. Always a treat, and I pick up something that I didn’t quite capture on the first pass.
Very thorough information and well presented. You need to take a little bit of time to go through this, though, but it's worth the while. I leave with a much better understanding on primers and valuable clarifications on common myth and misconceptions. Thank you for creating and sharing!
One issue I had with my .338LM was with Russian "Muron" brand Magnum primers which would hang fire as if you were shooting a percussion rifle, hopeless for accuracy. Muron LR Primers were excellent, consistent performers in my .22/250 as were any American made Magnum primers later used in the .338LM. Another helpful and factual video, thank you Sir!
Good treatise on selection and use of primers by reloaders. One of your rules really impressed me, because I am the lone ranger in advising case preparers in reloading, NOT to mill or carve on the "membrane" of the case formed by the bottom of the primer cup, or as you say "primer bucket" and the bottom of the inside of the case. It is this membrane that is pierced by the flash hole (.080" dia.) on most all 70-30 brass case designs, large, small, pistol, rifle, etc. You said be careful with the flash hole deburring too,l so as not to try to bevel the exit of the flash hole into the case powder cavity, because removing material there can have consequencies. There is an insidious tool in use by many reloaders called the Primer Pocket Uniformer (PPU). This device removes material from the other side of the membrane at the entrance of flash hole ie. the bottom of the primer pocket or "primer bucket."It provides a method for improving the looks the bottom of the primer pocket by milling off enough brass to show bright and shiny metal. It is basically a hand operated end mill. Its original intent was to set the depth of the primer pocket to a uniform depth. It only works in one direction, that is deepening the pocke,t not making it more shallow. By using it to remove material from the membrane or web of the case head, it is weakening the radial stress supporting structure of the case head. That should be enough said, but many old timers say there is no evidence that removing that material weakens the structure. If that part of the case fails (it would be near peak chamber pressure), the catastrophic failure of the case head (practically unsupported raidially by rimless cartridge chambers at that chamber station) will be lost in the ensuing carnage. Case head structural failure that starts with a crack in the web or membrane, often causes the web and the primer cup to vaporize and be replated back through the wrecked bolt as the plasma cools down.
I watch your channel as the bible of shooting. Thanks very much!
I use the Lee handheld primer tool for my pistol cases and being a master toolmaker use my Mitutoya depth indicator for checking seating depth.
Haven't bought a progressive loader yet, but still use my RCBS I've had for 52 years. Even the books I have from back then, Speer #6, 1964 were compared to my Speer #12, 1995 when I bought the Lee Anniversary set in 1997...
All data on reloads is on 3x5 cards and in "Excel" format and kept with the box of shells. Additionally all the shells are kept together for using again in lots to keep track of the number of times reloaded.
As for pocket diameters I use guage pins for identifying tolerance and primer fitment.....cheers.
Thank you Sir for passing on your endless knowledge.
Gee, you’re a great instructor; I have learned much. BTW, when so was on a Navy team shooting the 1911, we used magnum primers with Green Dot on advice of those RCBS fellows since that shotgun powder is slow burning and all the grains need to be ignited at once to burn by the end of the pistol barrel. Oh, my, they were accurate loads.
Great information, I may be going a little overboard with my brass but I do the inside trim like you suggested but after firing, I will use a RCBS primer pocket cleaning brush to clean out all the residue from the spent primer, may also help in getting a better fit when re-priming.
you're a heck of a teacher. thanks for what you do. I hope to hear you do some more coverage on plated bullets and how are you arrive at the proper load data for safety.
To GunBlue.Thanks again for putting together an informative video on primers.Always great to get info from
someone who has had a passion for firearms for such a long time and studied issues from a logical perspective
You are a true blessing to the gun industry and Im sure everyone appreciates the time you put into telling us how it is.Cheers andGod Bless.
Another informative loading video from a knowledgeable and credible man. I have learned a lot about the handloading and firearm 'business' from you. Bless you for sharing your information.
I’m in awe! GunBlue490, I tip my hat to you. Thorough, eloquently delivered doctoral dissertation on a critical topic, and so very timely to me as I prepare to load my very first rifle cartridges, .300 AAC Blackout. I have new cases, I have new dies, and I have one box of bullets (thank you Hornady). No trimming tool, no powder, no primers. Doing all I can to learn before dropping money unnecessarily. I need to rewatch this video, just to be sure I didn’t miss anything, but you gave me as much instruction on rifle cartridge preparation as you did on primer selection and seating. Subscribed. Thank you!
Nothing but top shelf information from this gentleman.
Gunblue490, thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and experience. Your posts are highly informative and truly enjoyable. A gifted instructor.
Another great summary of common sense reloading info!Here in Canada if I were to buy Winchester primers, they are designated as both regular and magnum on the box.You didn't mention the Berdan vs. Boxer in any detail. Not usually an issue unless you get range brass. Same with crimped primer pockets. Likely covered in your case prep video.
toy collector
As in Canada, Winchester large pistol primers are designated in the US as dual purpose. Their large rifle primers are separately designated. The last thing I wanted to do was dissect the confounding and confusing individual offerings of each company. Rather, my intent was to educate, so that anyone, regardless of product individualities, would be armed with knowledge to intelligently make the appropriate assessments. I follow this theme fairly throughout my series of videos, because far more is gained by learning about how guns tick than examining wee specific brands that are typically the same features in a different lipstick color from one maker to another. Despite the countless offerings, and the many advertizing claims, there isn't much noteworthy difference between one brand of gun or ammo and another.
Further, this video is for all-time, and as such, I confine my remarks to facts that relate to specific purposes, rather than specific brand models and packaging that can and do change over time.
No, I did not cover Berdan primers in this video, which is really off-topic, and of little interest to my following. Except for an extremely small segment of the ammunition market in the US, Berdan primers are obsolete, and it doesn't take long for most folks to discover that they are not (conventionally) reloaded. I could go further in saying that they are Third World junk, but I won't say that.
Well spoken as usual. Your knowledge deserves a book for all-time!
I’ve learned so much in 42:29 minutes! Thank you for making this video!
I could listen to this all day.
You know, I saw 42 minutes to discuss primers and thought, uggg english lit class! :) but it was another wonderful dissertation on my favorite subject.....gunznstuff!, Thanks, Gerry
gerry mckown
Well, I must give credit to my beloved English lit and grammar teacher, Miss Daryll Henderson, who burned into my soul, "specificity!" A word that has guided me since. God bless her for that, wherever she may be.
Thank you so much, in this time of ammo drought, primers cannot be found, I was wondering about the information you so generously provided, I decided to be cautious, not substitute one for the other. Luckily I obtained supplies while the prices were good and materials were available,
Nice video! I read that the NATO primers are heavier duty for use in semi-auto's with floating firing pins so if the firing pin bumps the primer it will not discharge.
yes thats true they also have a hotter flash. the cci #34 compared to federal 210 it has 2600 more psi and 46 more fps
Literally the grandpa I never got to have. Appreciate you doing this sir.
Thanks for the info. . I had a misfire on a 209 primer and I appreciated the word" fresh" you used when talking about misfires. I don't think the ones I was using were very fresh and were likely stored damp.
Great, accurate video. The only item I would challenge is the "military primers not required"; while this is true for bolt action rifles, it is not the case for autoloading military rifles like the M1 Carbine or AR15. These guns were designed without firing pin return springs for battlefield reliability; you can feel the firing pin "float" back and forth. When the next round is loaded, the free-floating pin will lightly strike the primer, as can be seen by removing the cartridge before firing and seeing the light dent in the primer. The military primers have an extra-thick case to prevent accidental detonation while loading. Standard primers, especially pistol, are too thin to take this. Hence, always only put two test loads in a magazine. The possibility of a full magazine of standard pistol primers going into full-auto (even with the finger off the trigger!) is why people were advised not to reload M1 carbine ammo. CCI would not have gone to the bother of creating a separate product if it was not needed, please use as intended. Bill Brick.
so, what i'm hearing is, match the primer to the case, not the weapon, when choosing between pistol and rifle primers...? did I say that right?
Indeed you did.
There is also a small primer that is used in rifle or pistol that I’m currently using in both right now and they work great.
Very well explained with no useless information. Well done, sir.
Another great video Sir! I have one comment regarding the CCI #41 "NATO" spec military primers. You mentioned they were designed for the higher pressures of military ammo. This may be correct, but my understanding was they are made with thicker or harder cups; the reasoning being to reduce the chances of slam fires in military rifles with free floating firing pins. I use them in my AR15 and M16/M4 rifles. I'm sure you know this, but if you look at the primers on an unfired round that has previously been chambered (with force) in one of these rifles you will see a dimple in the primer where the firing pin has struck it with a fair amount of force. In rare instances this can cause the rifle to fire when using softer primers. I've been reloading since 1975 and I am still learning new things. I love your videos. They are well laid out and thorough. Thank you.
I have heard the same thing, and have been concerned as well when switching to any other type. Can't remember where, but I read an article about different brands and hardness/thickness ratings for this issue with ar's!
I do appreciate learning, that I should use mag's for my 454 with H-110. I have a bunch loaded up and will be watching for squibs...
Great listening here! Thanks..
The last thing I do when developing a cartridge load is to try all the different primers I have to see if my groups will shrink. I am mindful of where I am at in regards to max powder charge. Sometimes I’ll work up to my load while trying different primer brands.
Howdy, lots of depth to your well of knowledge. Thanks for sharing. Knowledge not shared is knowledge lost.
I know you may have an answer for me on this particular issue:
Im reloading .30 carbine for m1. Imeasured the primer height .094 -.098”( my caliber) from spent casings ( three different brands). Same height as spp. Now im confused. So i pulled and measured primer from my .222 rem.; .108.”
Now the pockets: .30 carbine .120”
loved it from new zealand learn heaps just learning a little bout reloading etc bin a buy thee ammo off the shelf guy for 40 odd yrs thank you
Good video. Thanks
However for those who wish to achieve bench rest accuracy, there is more to be learned.
Precision Shooting Magazine, some years back, did a in depth analysis of primers. One worth researching. Gun Blue did refer to accuracy being effected by primer changes and gave good advice when he said stick with one make and type.
In BPCR (Black Powder Cartridge Rifle) shooting, typically 45-70, we achieve more consistent combustion when we use large pistol primers with a newspaper disk over the primer. So depending on the sensitivity of the density of the powder and the ignition propagation, primers can make a big difference.
In some instances when shooting a Cartridge that has Large Rifle Primer pocket like the 38-55, it pays to sleeve the primer pocket to accept a small primer to reduce the flash when using Black Powder
You never cease to amaze me, and I thank you for that. You've been reloading for 45 years, I've been reloading for 37 years. Your videos confirm all I've learned over the years and I enjoy renewing/revisiting information. Your presentation is perfect and "off the cuff", great stuff!!
I reload for 4 rifles, 223, 22-250, 45-70 and 45-120. The first 3 use standard primers (small in the 223 of course) and the 45-120 uses magnum primers. Only on one occasion have I had an "oops" situation and that was loading the 120 with standard primers. The 120 uses BP exclusively and there would not have been a major problem because it is only used for "wow" factor, boom, smoke and flame, plus a smile on my face, lol. But after I'd loaded 50 I realised my mistake and pulled all pills, unloaded powder and fired off the primers, replaced them with the magnum primers and felt good. Was quite messy with the lube, but life's like that. Didn't forgive myself for a long time and had to go back to the double check which I do even today.
This video has prompted me to do some further experimentation using different primers with my set loads in the 250 as it is my favourite rifle for both pests and at the range, just to see how much of a difference the primers make. Never considered it before as I've always had access to the same primers. Reloading is all about experimentation and you have just planted the seed required for investigation.
Many many thanks to you, cheers from downunder :)
I have used magnum primers when loading 223 with the motion that double base ball powder needed it like w 748. I'll have to try non magnum. I do have some very good loads with them. I'll try non magnum, see what happens.
Full size state of the union right there! !!! Excellent information! !!
Another GREAT, information packed video... Thank You!
Great information. It’s just too bad no one can get primers anymore. I hope this changes soon.
If you are just getting started in reloading...take his wise advice especially on the purchase of a loading manual...’Modern Reloading by Richard Lee’ is a good one to start with.
Could you talk about removing live primers/crushed or inverted primers and how to make them inert and dispose?
This was a great video, I have never enlarged the primer hole. I have wondered if there was an advantage 🤔 I'm so glad you set me straight and I'm buying regular primers for my 350 legend, maybe match? Thank you so much.
I had issues in igniting vihtavuori n-105 with a Fiocchi small pistol primer in my 357Mag loads, had powder residues on the table and was 100m/sec slower than expected even after optimizing crimping with Lee Factory crimping die. Using a CCI Small Rifle primer fixed the issue. In my experience, there are powders which are very difficult to ignite, especially in long cases, the specific load may require different combination of components.
Glad to have stumbled onto this channel! I've used Winchester primers almost exclusively throughout the last 20 years. I can count the problems I've had on one hand and that's lucky, because I don't like to re-chase that accurate load... Keep up the good work!
Small note.... sometimes you NEED a magnum rifle primer in specific rounds when greater than 45 grains. Specifically when loading a Japense 7.7x58mm pushing a 180 grain bullet with a double base powder like accurate 2700. That is from the powder manufacturer. I was told the same thing you said here about magnum primers and ended up with some unfortunate click boom situations and low pressure issues.
CALL THE POWDER MANUFACTURER if you have any questions. He was 100% right about that.
Thank you for verifying Magnum and standard primers in pistol cases. You answered my question.
John Milewski
Be aware too, that with pistol primers, Winchester for instance makes no distinction. Their pistol primers were developed for either standard or magnum cartridges, and are simply large pistol, which is very handy for the multi caliber loader. Thanks for watching.
So enjoy all your knowlage and sharing it with us. Now jus to find primers. thanks so much
Nicely done! Great information too! Thanks for sharing!
I’m new to reloading and find myself taking notes to your videos. Thank you for taking the time help people like me to suck up so much info. Today’s world we can’t get powder or primers, so learning thru your experiences surely helps us save time and money. I do have a question.I have been trying to buy small pistol primers over a year, I live in socialist California cannot find any small pistol primers. Could I use small rifle magnum Primers from CCI for my Sigg P320 9mm? I think I know the answer, but I’m desperate and want to reach out.
The reason I ask about Berdan primers is the man who taught me reloading left me a lot of military brass with Berdan primers. As you said there is a tool for removing them and I have one. In this video you talked about primer seating and fit, since the primer pocket is larger after removing the Berdan do I have to be selective of what primers I use? When my friend was teaching me we only used CCI primers in this brass. Being a novice at that time and even though he had been reloading since the 40s he never said anything about primer fit. We just shot to punch holes in paper. As I got older I got more interested for the hunting aspect.
This military brass is more thick walled than civilian brass so it takes pressures better. That's why my concern in primer types for it. Sorry to be so long winded but after a 20 year lapse in reloading I'm beginning to get interested again and finding your channel was like waking up at Christmas or for a birthday.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I have been reloading for quite a while although not as long as you have but I am always wanting to know more and the more I learn the more I realize that I don't know ha. As you mentioned about the large and small primers in the. 45 was interesting I have a friend I wouldn't doubt it if you know him that I asked the same question about the. 45 primers and he said that back in the day 1911s were built sloppy for reliability in the military and large primers were more of a guarantee that the firing pin would hit the primers. Now that they are made with tighter tolerances the large primers are no longer necessary. Perhaps your explanations are more accurate thanks again for all the Information.
PS Ron Power is the friend I am referring to
Allen
i have 20 year old primers cci 200 stored just on the shelve in storage room, still work 100% loaded 100 rounds today all shot like new
Good job for newbies.. I am a 25 year reloading
Hi John, thanks for the response about primers. I have been reloading shotshells since I was 12. I am now 69. I those days I used felt wads because I could not yet get plastic wads and cup holders for 16 gauge. I always followed the load recipes, so I never had a safety issue. The only problems I ever had was getting the crimp right on paper cases. A bad crimp would sometimes open up and you would lose the shot before firing the case. Now I am looking to reload 7mm-08 and possibly 280 AI, if I can find a rifle for the 280AI chambering. Perhaps you could go over safety concerns in a new video, now that reloading componets are hard to come by and I believe people are switching between different components such as brass, primers, and even bullets. Maybe you could add something on fire-forming cases? Thanks again, I enjoy listening to all of your videos and learn something new each time.
Again love your segments. could you please do a segment on bullet pulling. please Make more. cheers Paul in South Australia.
Thank you, another excellent session.
I actually have a couple of dozen of those .45 cases with small primer pockets. They have worked just fine.
In a pinch ive used small rifle in a small pistol case many of times..I just back the charge down .75-1.0 of a grain and they work flawlessly. And I have tried to watch so many of your videos but you make them sooooooo long and I just haven't been able to make it through any of them.
Hi GunBlue490,I have just today found your sight and I a Very impressed with you detailed explanations of all aspects in reloading. I have been reloading for about 40 years and you have given me a few pointers that I didn't know about. Thanks Heaps. Cheers from Rod, in Australia.
Thanks for the reply. I thought the 7mm-08 would suffer more from a shorter barrel but I will take your advice and go that route.
jason anders
They all suffer at about the same degree. What must be considered is that 150 grain bullets are very short and stubby, and rely on velicity to punch through, whereas 140 grain 7mm bullets are long with sectional density that performs better at diminished velocities. The 308 requires a 165 grain bullet to acheive equal sectional density, which the 308 drives at about 100 fps less, but with far greater recoil. All in all, both are superior deer cartridges, and kill deer equally dead, and have bullets of equal sectional density available to them, but at quite different prices of recoil. Short barreled carbines are not typically used for larger game or longer ranges, so considerations of larger game capabilities with larger bore diameter are moot.
Thanks again!
Wonderful information. But one thing I wish you would have covered is how to effectively destroy a primer that didn't load right on a press or you just want to discard a primer to get rid of. I've always flooded them with an ammonia based product. But what you use. Thanks for insightful knowledge.
very good info, always open to learn! Keep -up the good job,KEEP YA POWDER DRY !