Cross referencing multiple manuals has always helped me get loads right where I want them. Also, a chronograph was one of the best investments I made in my reloading setup. They are relatively inexpensive, too.
Excellent video, as always, thanks guys. I would add one more thing - you should learn how to "read" your fired cases to look for the warning signs of over pressure. I know this is in most manuals, but as we know many people don't read the entire manual (especially us guys).
For any new load or load adjustments its a good practice to check your spent primers in the spent cases for signs of excessive pressure such as deformation as well as looking the spent case over for any signs of fatigue, deformation, or splits and cracks.
One thing not covered, and at least it's this way with the Lyman's manual, is they're kind of a fun "read". They have sections discussing how gun power and primers are created at the factory, how brass is made, how a cartridge is tested with a little copper cup, etc. A lot of the cartridge recipes will also include a brief history lesson on how and why they were developed and it's lineage to other cartridges (like the relationship between 300 Blackout and 300 Whisper).
It’s mind blowing how many guys won’t buy a manual and just ask people on Facebook for loads. Im all for recommending a powder primer bullet combo, but powder charges can really be less straightforward to recommend. Work up your own load with a manual. The Hornady manual is free to download as an app and is only $0.99 per caliber. That’s so cheap if your just getting started.
@@shootmcrunfast it's bad. The few that get out to retailers are usually bought up within an hour and then listed on places like GunBroker for $300+/brick. I have tried to find some on local shelves, but no luck for the past 6+ months
Also good to have multiple manuals. My lee manual has some early 5.7x28 load data that compared to my lyman manual looks crazy; like starting loads 0.9-1.1gr higher for similar bullets and powder, which in the 5.7x28 is very spicy. It's nice to have multiple sources to compare and refer to when starting load development.
A couple of other rules of thumb are; 1) use the powder that best fills the case to the base of the bullet, these are almost always the slowest burning powders listed, 2) never seat the bullet any farther than the base of the neck, 3) when developing a load start 1 1/2 to 2 grains short of the maximum listed in the manual. That is where I usually start and work up 1/2 grain until I reach 0.0005 expansion at the web of the case, back off 1/2 grain and work up 1/10 of a grain until I can match speed with accuracy. Accuracy may not be the highest speed...but it’ll be darn close.
Lyman and Lee manuals always. Powder manufacturers usually have theirs available for download. I started almost 40 years ago with a book called the ABC'S of reloading. Your tip on verification of internet data in a manual is spot on.
how about a video about recognizing pressure signs, and how different pressure signs can change loads. also which pressure signs are the most valid (or least), and which are most worrisome.
Chronograph also helps to get some baseline data from some factory loaded bullets so you have a good idea of what speeds to get out of certain guns. Also, inspect your casings, they will show signs of overpressure.
After the manual or whatever source for solid data, the chronograph is a MUST tool for handloading! A pressure trace device is even better but, it's a luxury item.
Agree with a chronograph, it was a gamechanger for me. I learned (as I suspected) that my loads developed without it were very safe and conservative. It also began an obsession with getting the lowest SD/ES possible and really upped my game with brass prep. I make way better ammo now after getting a chrono.
I bought a race gun really inexpensive and had no idea what 38 Super was. Lucky for me a friend had been loading for years and he helped me. I now load 10 calibers and have many books, several presses, and a chronograph (of course) and I am still learning. Great info and thanks for sharing.
Superb video, gentlemen, thank you. However, I’ll offer one addition: I no longer reload, but every decade or so, I buy a new Lyman’s manual, simply because - and this is the key point - good manuals are filled with interesting and important shooting-related information. Several times monthly, I’ll analyze some internet expert’s claim, and the manual plainly is an invaluable resource. So, imho, if one is serious regarding the art and sciences of firearms, then my experience is a reasonably current and excellent reloading manual is entirely worth the cost.
In a perfect world, you want load data for your specific bullet. Just because you have a “230 grain X” bullet doesn’t mean it’s identical to Hornady or Sierra’s version of the same bullet, and the recommended overall length could be different. Plated and coated bullets, especially, may have very specific load data that’s not in load manual. Call the bullet manufacturer and try to get data from them for their specific bullet. The answer may be “just use data for similar lead bullet” but at least you got it from the bullet maker. Another suggestion is to try to have at least 2 sources to compare. Some of the powder companies have data available online, so check that if you can. I have several load manuals that I can cross reference. Finally, you need to know if there is anything special about your firearm. For example, 1 manual has a separate section for .308/7.62 “service rifles”. Another has the same for .223/5.56 “service rifles”. And there are three different sets of load data for .45-70 depending on what firearm you are loading for. Bottom line: you can never have too much data!
Just starting out I’m getting A manual. I’ve got A RCBS and Powder I’m keeping Jack with you guys and many others that’s my whole back right now starting at 3:57 magnum and 38 special
Excellent video gentlemen! It appears that I've been reloading now for 40 years and I wholeheartedly endorse your thoughts. Started with a DBI reloading manual, followed by an '82 Hornady, then a Speer, then a Lyman. A hearty "Amen" on a chronograph - they're cheap now folks - get one please. It's not about the speed either, it's about tracking the velocity progression as the charge increases. All that good stuff and the coffee cups appear to be in order too - though Caleb switched his out awhile back on me and it took a couple videos for me to notice.... stay well. :)
What I run into is having to make executive decisions on what bullet listing most closely matches what bullet I'm loading. For instance, the Hornady book you have there only deals with Hornady bullets. Then you can go to the Hodgdon's reloading data website and it'll show a few bullets by different makers. Then I have the Sierra app which only deals with their bullets. But I start out conservative. Also, my new chronograph is being delivered today so I'm really wishing I could be home enjoying this nice weather playing with my toys instead of here at the office!
Ideally, you have several data books in your library. Most of the powder manufacturers will mail you load data books that they've compiled for free. And yeah, you can also get things like the Hornady app on your phone and buy the data for just the bullets you use.
...and, Hornady doesn't seem to publish the length of their bullets. Anywhere. Not even in their Reloading Manual. This doesn't make it easy to see if a similar weight projectile is comparable in length to one of Hornady's.
@@dahut3614 I just looked in my 9th Edition Horady manual, my Hornady reloading app, and 5he Hornady Ballistics Calculator app and you're absolutely right. I received a delivery of toys today from BassPro and your comment had me look closer at the two boxes of Hornady bullets that came in. (And they sent me Varmint Soft Points instead of the FMJ-BT I ordered...oh well.)
I have the 9th Edition Hornady book from 2012 that seems to be pretty nice. I think they just released the 11th edition recently...like this month. I also downloaded the Hornady reloading app on my phone. It's got a lot of information BUT they make you pay either $19.99 for the electronic book or you can pay $.99 for each caliber you are reloading. Then I added the Sierra app to my phone. That one cost $3.99 but there's a lot of information on it. It's a bit aggravating sometimes, though. One thing I would HIGHLY recommend right now is to go to the Hodgdon's reloading data website and just poke around. It's easy to use on your phone or a computer.
I’ve always checked my primers after my first shot with a certain load to see if the primer has been flattened or cratered that can be a sign of pressure issues with that load!
Okay so im fairly new to reloading as it was fun back in the covid days and still enjoy it, but some times I cant help thinking there is a lot of marketing ploy involved. If we buy factory loads they are expected to work in any rifle in whatever chambering they are in so why all this load development why not have a manual that gives us a safe usable load given a set of components and call it a day. One other thing I've noticed while researching loads for a 280Rem was that the test barrel A26 inch Lilja precision custom barrel. What factory Remington 280/7MM Express was built with that barrel? I'd bet zero. How am I to chronograph my loads and compare them to that? Im still learning and video's like this are a big help thank you
A video on barrel life of a ar15 and if long periods of fire i.e heat getting the barrel hot effects life of barrel like a m&p sport 2 556 barrel comparison to a colt or a good barrel that will dissipate heat to extend barrel life is a heavy barrel better or fluted witch is the best option or do all barrels just get hot quickly
Great advice, thanks. When the manual provides data, for example, for a 24" barrel but I have a 22" - what's the recommendation for a load starting point? Is this type of situation addressed in some/any of the manuals?
The starting point and load development process are the same. Barrel length won't affect peak pressure, so there aren't any safety issues with different barrel lengths. But a shorter barrel means lower velocity (rule of thumb is 20-30 fps per inch), so you likely won't be able to get the same velocity in the manual.
Heads up fellow shooters. If you purchase a Brownells retro scope from Optics Planet you will have no warranty from them or Brownells. I notified them both that I would warn you. Joe Harris
Why is it that if you look into different load manuals they have different Max powder ranges one says one thing and another one has two to three grains over as a Max powder charge one can say a Max charge of 44 and the Hornady book will say Max charge of 47 that's like a three grain difference if you say they do it in laboratories under control conditions how do they come up with such a large variance
Because they aren't all using the exact same components and their equipment isn't all identical. If they were you'd really only need one manual, because everyone would come up with the exact same results. Two guns off the same production line back to back won't be identical either. That's why you don't just start at the max in the book (or take your buddy's max load and drop it into your gun), because you don't know if the max for your gun is the same as the max for the manual.
Contact Hodgdon and ask. Have the jug of powder with you for the lot number when you call. Could be a weak powder charge or too much powder, neck tension or chamber dimensions. Could be ???
Is there a Manual that is more universal instead of brand specific as you mentioned? In any case what would you recommend to someone interested in reloading?
Yes. Manuals, manuals, manuals. You can't have too manuals. Lymans is a must as it's not brand specific on bullets or powders. Lee is the same way. The the brand specific manuals to go along side. Compare load data from several manuals on the caliber your looking to load. AND YOU GOOD FOLKS AT BROWNELLS, you keep talking and advertising reloading equipment and components but this is a mute point when you can't find primers or have to pay 17 to 18$ a hundred and take what's there. 140$ for a 1000 large pistol and only get 1000 because that's all and only. I say this because their are several new reloaders in my area who have geared up in recent months and cant get those little spark plugs unless they beg, borrow or in a couple of cases steel from those of us who have a little stock on hand. People are getting desperate, desperate I tell you. HELP HELP HELP US!
It is a good thing to be aphrensive at all times. What takes away degradation of failure is the smile one gets after all the time you take in doing the research, watching videos if this helps, when you pull the trigger for that first time and it's the first reloaded round going down "your tube". It would like being an elite swimmer who even though they are comfortable with the water, still have the greatest respect for any body of the same. When one gets too comfortable and lax in anything might be when the dangers of compromise sets one on the course for failure.
YES! There's a reason they want you to enter the water volume of your cases in quickload. Remember to add some water along with your powder guys! jk :)
Cross referencing multiple manuals has always helped me get loads right where I want them. Also, a chronograph was one of the best investments I made in my reloading setup. They are relatively inexpensive, too.
Excellent video, as always, thanks guys. I would add one more thing - you should learn how to "read" your fired cases to look for the warning signs of over pressure. I know this is in most manuals, but as we know many people don't read the entire manual (especially us guys).
For any new load or load adjustments its a good practice to check your spent primers in the spent cases for signs of excessive pressure such as deformation as well as looking the spent case over for any signs of fatigue, deformation, or splits and cracks.
very good point.
One thing not covered, and at least it's this way with the Lyman's manual, is they're kind of a fun "read". They have sections discussing how gun power and primers are created at the factory, how brass is made, how a cartridge is tested with a little copper cup, etc. A lot of the cartridge recipes will also include a brief history lesson on how and why they were developed and it's lineage to other cartridges (like the relationship between 300 Blackout and 300 Whisper).
Hear hear absolutely agree. Hornady and Sierra have a bit of historical information, too.
It’s mind blowing how many guys won’t buy a manual and just ask people on Facebook for loads. Im all for recommending a powder primer bullet combo, but powder charges can really be less straightforward to recommend. Work up your own load with a manual. The Hornady manual is free to download as an app and is only $0.99 per caliber. That’s so cheap if your just getting started.
How to start developing a load. Step zero: find some primers
There are some out there, right up on the top shelf between the gold and silver ingots, but they are there.
@@shootmcrunfast it's bad. The few that get out to retailers are usually bought up within an hour and then listed on places like GunBroker for $300+/brick. I have tried to find some on local shelves, but no luck for the past 6+ months
@@shootmcrunfast I look at several places(on and offline stores) two, 3 or 4 times a week and haven't been able to buy ANY for well over a year!!
@@shootmcrunfast I found some cci br4 last week for 14 dollars per 100. I was sick but I got my 3 box limit
I have a good stock of primers but I'm almost out of powder. Can't find any anywhere
In the future, any discussion of the dangers of bullet setback and proper crimping would be helpful
I agree. First bullets I loaded were 308 set too deep. Didn't get dangerous, but I knew I screwed up the moment I pulled the trigger.
Also good to have multiple manuals. My lee manual has some early 5.7x28 load data that compared to my lyman manual looks crazy; like starting loads 0.9-1.1gr higher for similar bullets and powder, which in the 5.7x28 is very spicy. It's nice to have multiple sources to compare and refer to when starting load development.
Great info, thanks.
A couple of other rules of thumb are; 1) use the powder that best fills the case to the base of the bullet, these are almost always the slowest burning powders listed, 2) never seat the bullet any farther than the base of the neck, 3) when developing a load start 1 1/2 to 2 grains short of the maximum listed in the manual. That is where I usually start and work up 1/2 grain until I reach 0.0005 expansion at the web of the case, back off 1/2 grain and work up 1/10 of a grain until I can match speed with accuracy. Accuracy may not be the highest speed...but it’ll be darn close.
Lyman and Lee manuals always. Powder manufacturers usually have theirs available for download. I started almost 40 years ago with a book called the ABC'S of reloading. Your tip on verification of internet data in a manual is spot on.
I have ove4 24 reloading manuals and the first 6 abc's of reloading. Love dean grennell 's righting in a b c. Take care
how about a video about recognizing pressure signs, and how different pressure signs can change loads. also which pressure signs are the most valid (or least), and which are most worrisome.
Chronograph also helps to get some baseline data from some factory loaded bullets so you have a good idea of what speeds to get out of certain guns. Also, inspect your casings, they will show signs of overpressure.
After the manual or whatever source for solid data, the chronograph is a MUST tool for handloading! A pressure trace device is even better but, it's a luxury item.
Man FEDEX came by and I have a brand new chronograph sitting on my front porch RIGHT NOW! Weather is perfect.
Aaaaaaaaand we're working late tonight.
Agree with a chronograph, it was a gamechanger for me. I learned (as I suspected) that my loads developed without it were very safe and conservative. It also began an obsession with getting the lowest SD/ES possible and really upped my game with brass prep. I make way better ammo now after getting a chrono.
I usually start developing a load with coffee
😆
I bought a race gun really inexpensive and had no idea what 38 Super was. Lucky for me a friend had been loading for years and he helped me. I now load 10 calibers and have many books, several presses, and a chronograph (of course) and I am still learning. Great info and thanks for sharing.
Waiting on the new Hornady manual that I pre-ordered with the app last year
Great timing! Just ordered my Hornady and Hodgdon manuals yesterday. Already have most of my equipment, just need to get powder and primers now.
Superb video, gentlemen, thank you. However, I’ll offer one addition: I no longer reload, but every decade or so, I buy a new Lyman’s manual, simply because - and this is the key point - good manuals are filled with interesting and important shooting-related information. Several times monthly, I’ll analyze some internet expert’s claim, and the manual plainly is an invaluable resource. So, imho, if one is serious regarding the art and sciences of firearms, then my experience is a reasonably current and excellent reloading manual is entirely worth the cost.
Very good show! They always are.
In a perfect world, you want load data for your specific bullet. Just because you have a “230 grain X” bullet doesn’t mean it’s identical to Hornady or Sierra’s version of the same bullet, and the recommended overall length could be different. Plated and coated bullets, especially, may have very specific load data that’s not in load manual. Call the bullet manufacturer and try to get data from them for their specific bullet. The answer may be “just use data for similar lead bullet” but at least you got it from the bullet maker.
Another suggestion is to try to have at least 2 sources to compare. Some of the powder companies have data available online, so check that if you can. I have several load manuals that I can cross reference.
Finally, you need to know if there is anything special about your firearm. For example, 1 manual has a separate section for .308/7.62 “service rifles”. Another has the same for .223/5.56 “service rifles”. And there are three different sets of load data for .45-70 depending on what firearm you are loading for.
Bottom line: you can never have too much data!
Just starting out I’m getting A manual. I’ve got A RCBS and Powder I’m keeping Jack with you guys and many others that’s my whole back right now starting at 3:57 magnum and 38 special
Remember that the powder manufacturers have data on their website too. Just received today Alliant data manual. Very nice.
Excellent video gentlemen! It appears that I've been reloading now for 40 years and I wholeheartedly endorse your thoughts. Started with a DBI reloading manual, followed by an '82 Hornady, then a Speer, then a Lyman. A hearty "Amen" on a chronograph - they're cheap now folks - get one please. It's not about the speed either, it's about tracking the velocity progression as the charge increases. All that good stuff and the coffee cups appear to be in order too - though Caleb switched his out awhile back on me and it took a couple videos for me to notice.... stay well. :)
great video guys as always :)
What I run into is having to make executive decisions on what bullet listing most closely matches what bullet I'm loading.
For instance, the Hornady book you have there only deals with Hornady bullets. Then you can go to the Hodgdon's reloading data website and it'll show a few bullets by different makers. Then I have the Sierra app which only deals with their bullets.
But I start out conservative.
Also, my new chronograph is being delivered today so I'm really wishing I could be home enjoying this nice weather playing with my toys instead of here at the office!
Ideally, you have several data books in your library. Most of the powder manufacturers will mail you load data books that they've compiled for free. And yeah, you can also get things like the Hornady app on your phone and buy the data for just the bullets you use.
...and, Hornady doesn't seem to publish the length of their bullets. Anywhere. Not even in their Reloading Manual. This doesn't make it easy to see if a similar weight projectile is comparable in length to one of Hornady's.
@@dahut3614 I just looked in my 9th Edition Horady manual, my Hornady reloading app, and 5he Hornady Ballistics Calculator app and you're absolutely right.
I received a delivery of toys today from BassPro and your comment had me look closer at the two boxes of Hornady bullets that came in. (And they sent me Varmint Soft Points instead of the FMJ-BT I ordered...oh well.)
Could you link a few of the best reloading/firearm ammunition books you guys use? Very insightful video as always!👏
I have the 9th Edition Hornady book from 2012 that seems to be pretty nice. I think they just released the 11th edition recently...like this month.
I also downloaded the Hornady reloading app on my phone. It's got a lot of information BUT they make you pay either $19.99 for the electronic book or you can pay $.99 for each caliber you are reloading.
Then I added the Sierra app to my phone. That one cost $3.99 but there's a lot of information on it. It's a bit aggravating sometimes, though.
One thing I would HIGHLY recommend right now is to go to the Hodgdon's reloading data website and just poke around. It's easy to use on your phone or a computer.
@@Cautionary_Tale_Harris very helpful thanks a lot!
FYI: Brownells has the 11th Edition Hornady book available for pre-order. Other suppliers have it in stock, but this just shows how new the book is.
@@Cautionary_Tale_Harris yeah that's much appreciated...much rather get something updated for sure 👍
The Lee manual is a good all around book, the Lyman book has some harder to find data, and lists alot of cast cast projectiles.
Always good videos guys! Could we have one on where to store our gun powder?
I’ve always checked my primers after my first shot with a certain load to see if the primer has been flattened or cratered that can be a sign of pressure issues with that load!
My first manual was speer 49 years ago
Good advice.
Love reloading. Probably just as much as actually shooting
Perfect quality to have...
When is Barnes bullets going to update their manual????
Very good!!!!!!!
Morning gentlemen
I don’t even see primers on their table.
thanks guys and know the early warning sighs of high pressure; flattening of primers, hard case election etc.
I read the title and just yelled out, TACO TUESDAY!!!.
Stay hydrated.
Okay so im fairly new to reloading as it was fun back in the covid days and still enjoy it, but some times I cant help thinking there is a lot of marketing ploy involved. If we buy factory loads they are expected to work in any rifle in whatever chambering they are in so why all this load development why not have a manual that gives us a safe usable load given a set of components and call it a day.
One other thing I've noticed while researching loads for a 280Rem was that the test barrel A26 inch Lilja precision custom barrel. What factory Remington 280/7MM Express was built with that barrel? I'd bet zero. How am I to chronograph my loads and compare them to that?
Im still learning and video's like this are a big help thank you
Safe advice
A video on barrel life of a ar15 and if long periods of fire i.e heat getting the barrel hot effects life of barrel like a m&p sport 2 556 barrel comparison to a colt or a good barrel that will dissipate heat to extend barrel life is a heavy barrel better or fluted witch is the best option or do all barrels just get hot quickly
Great job Guys 😁👍☕☕
Amen!!!
How to start up a subsonic load, like for a 300 blackout?
Do you have any experience with Quickloads? Do you think their chamber pressure estimates are accurate? Giving you input all the correct information?
Great advice, thanks. When the manual provides data, for example, for a 24" barrel but I have a 22" - what's the recommendation for a load starting point? Is this type of situation addressed in some/any of the manuals?
The starting point and load development process are the same. Barrel length won't affect peak pressure, so there aren't any safety issues with different barrel lengths. But a shorter barrel means lower velocity (rule of thumb is 20-30 fps per inch), so you likely won't be able to get the same velocity in the manual.
I have a reloading book that is several years old. Do you see any need to get an updated book if only reloading common calibers ? TIA !
but how to develop a load for which there is no data?
e.g., 338 WBY with a 160gr bullet or 7PRC with 130gr bullet
I the barcode label still on the bottom of Calebs cup ? L0L
What book is that
My Alliant reloader’s giluide just showed up in the mail.
Heads up fellow shooters. If you purchase a Brownells retro scope from Optics Planet you will have no warranty from them or Brownells. I notified them both that I would warn you. Joe Harris
Anyone make their own 6.5x52 carcano? I’m looking at making my own loads and want some tips to get started
Why is it that if you look into different load manuals they have different Max powder ranges one says one thing and another one has two to three grains over as a Max powder charge one can say a Max charge of 44 and the Hornady book will say Max charge of 47 that's like a three grain difference if you say they do it in laboratories under control conditions how do they come up with such a large variance
Because they aren't all using the exact same components and their equipment isn't all identical. If they were you'd really only need one manual, because everyone would come up with the exact same results. Two guns off the same production line back to back won't be identical either. That's why you don't just start at the max in the book (or take your buddy's max load and drop it into your gun), because you don't know if the max for your gun is the same as the max for the manual.
Any idea why my reloads are discharging black smoke when firing my rifle?( CFE .223 powder, 55 grain fmj boat tail)
Contact Hodgdon and ask. Have the jug of powder with you for the lot number when you call. Could be a weak powder charge or too much powder, neck tension or chamber dimensions. Could be ???
Is there a Manual that is more universal instead of brand specific as you mentioned? In any case what would you recommend to someone interested in reloading?
Lyman and Lee
@@TheRotorhound thank you
@@mrcbrrr7484 👍
Whiskey helps. Whiskey ALWAYS helps.
Primers.....
In God we trust; On 'Starting Load' we rely.
Always, always, always recheck your powder load and make sure it is for that caliber. It is too easy to look at the wrong line.
Start small you don't want to load a1000 rounds just to find they don't cycle
Which "brand" reload manual do you recommend..?
Had to do a double take on the title
😂😂
Yes. Manuals, manuals, manuals. You can't have too manuals. Lymans is a must as it's not brand specific on bullets or powders. Lee is the same way. The the brand specific manuals to go along side. Compare load data from several manuals on the caliber your looking to load. AND YOU GOOD FOLKS AT BROWNELLS, you keep talking and advertising reloading equipment and components but this is a mute point when you can't find primers or have to pay 17 to 18$ a hundred and take what's there. 140$ for a 1000 large pistol and only get 1000 because that's all and only. I say this because their are several new reloaders in my area who have geared up in recent months and cant get those little spark plugs unless they beg, borrow or in a couple of cases steel from those of us who have a little stock on hand. People are getting desperate, desperate I tell you. HELP HELP HELP US!
When I want to start developing a load....well, nevermind.
Okay. I'm now scared enough not to ever reload.
I just started in September and I enjoy it. It'll be more enjoyable if the components ever become readily available again...
It is a good thing to be aphrensive at all times. What takes away degradation of failure is the smile one gets after all the time you take in doing the research, watching videos if this helps, when you pull the trigger for that first time and it's the first reloaded round going down "your tube". It would like being an elite swimmer who even though they are comfortable with the water, still have the greatest respect for any body of the same. When one gets too comfortable and lax in anything might be when the dangers of compromise sets one on the course for failure.
🌍💓❤️🎉☔️☔️🏆
Tons of load data for s&w..... s&w admitted their weapons wont take the pressures that rugers will 😂
Stay hydrated.
YES! There's a reason they want you to enter the water volume of your cases in quickload. Remember to add some water along with your powder guys!
jk :)