My old neighbor told me when I was having to replace an old rotted, wooden 6' step ladder that broke (while I was on it!), to spend the extra money on quality. A new fiberglass ladder costed about $20-25 MORE than a new wooden ladder. I was VERY strapped for cash and didn't really have the extra money, but I also needed the ladder for my job. Decisions...decisions...decisions.... I can't recall his exact words, but they were something like (speaking of spending more on quality) " ....you'll still have that ladder long after the purchase price is forgotten". So, I sucked it up and purchased the fiberglass ladder. That was in 1989, and I STILL have that ladder. Those words have carried me through many purchases since that day. Maybe they could help somebody who's struggling with a similar decision today. Thank you, Mr. Barthlett. Rest In Peace
I just started the wood working hobby. I consider myself a diyer right now, but will eventually would like to build small cabinets and decorative furniture. I know I have a long road of learning, and most times the information out there are diluted and confusing. Your videos are concise, and professionally presented. No nonsense sales push, gimmicks, and mindless rants. Thank you for your dedication to the wood working craft. Sincerely, wood working noob
As a fellow noob myself with only 2 semesters of woodshop and years between practice, my advice is to practice. I watched all sorts of videos before getting back into the swing of things, but you learn best from your own failures. Soaking up all of this new information is one thing, but being able to recall and apply it with skill takes practice.
I very much appreciate your videos. I have worked with wood both professionally and as a hobbyist for 50 years. Your videos are informative, straight forward, and done very well. Your table saw video is spot on. Well done!
One thing I want to suggest. The motors on some older saws. The motors are vented to the atmosphere. Some folks end up replacing motors that act up. A good dusting with forced air fixes most of them. I’ve picked up a few Craftsman 10 inch models that people game up on. Blew out the motor and oiled it well and they came to life. Great channel. GO WINGS.
Finally, a discussion about table saws that didn't say you're a fool for even looking at anything but a Saw Stop. I know they are great saws and I think you might even have one, but thanks for the recommendations James. As always, much appreciated.
But you are foolish if you don’t realize that anything besides SawStop is too dangerous to use on a regular basis. You are kidding yourself to not factor in the cost of accidents times their probability.
@@garnetsteen I strongly disagree. Good practices go a long way. Yes, there are people who follow bad practices, and have been lucky. Many even promote those bad practices here on YT, and if you call them out, attack you with "Safety Sally" comments and the full wrath of their rabid supporters. I feel like that cavalier attitude does more to promote unsafe practices than tools to to promote them. But there are lots of channels here that promote good practices like the right kinds of push sticks, using riving knives, guards, etc. The good riving knife and optional overhead guard do more to protect you on the Saw Stop than the emergency braking mechanism, because amputations (partial or full) of the finger are not the worst or anywhere near the most common saw accidents. The SawStop protects against only one kind of accident, which is relatively rare compared to kickback. It's a good saw, but the religion around it is annoying. I'm a big fan of proper euro sliding table saws. I know not everyone is. But f you look at those saws, the workflow is different enough that you don't run into many of the same issues (required brake for the blade. better riving knives, overhead guards, different operating position, workpiece carried by the sliding table, no need for sleds, better dust collection, etc.). In the UK and Europe, they're also available for relatively cheap across a broad quality range, whereas only the high-end ones tend to be available here in the US (except for with Grizzly, which has a decent lower-price one). I favor these over the Saw Stop because of all the reasons mentioned above, and how they contribute to an overall higher safety level vs the Saw Stop. Don't get me wrong: the SawStop is a really good saw, but it's a bit of a strongly-funded sock puppet religion here on YT. There are very few channels here recommending Saw Stop who actually had to pay for it themselves. I've found that few actually disclose that openly as well, which is a bad practice. Anyway, this is old, but the database is online and you can build your own queries. www.popularwoodworking.com/article/table-saw-injury-numbers-in-perspective/ . (It's interesting to note that doors cause more finger amputations than table saws.)
Thanks for this review. My current saw is a very old Rockwell with original parts.It helped me raise my family for the past 40 yrs, and I love it. Of course, I've kept it in perfect running order. Not just a saw, an old friend that I will never get rid of. Still does amazing work!
Thanks for this post! I'm a DIY beginner and I especially appreciate the comment about waiting to buy instead of buying a cheap model that may be a bad purchase.
I just recently found a craftsman 113.something after a year of searching for only $150. I built John heitz wood fence which works surprising well. polished the cast top and waxed it good. I love that saw. thanks james. good video
TheMatterManipulator those are the last version of the old belt drive BT3000 and BT 3100 series. They’re so famous they have their own forum and fan base among contractors. Really good saw, but for a portable saw, takes allot of footprint in the truck. I’ve had 2 of these. Now have something similar, with muuuuch more torque. Arguably strongest saw u can find that’s portable and is aimed at contractors. Skilsaw sp-99. Large table, Blade set towards back of table so great for crosscut sleds. Rack-punion fence ( like dewalt, but better. Larger gears and lass slop) And most importantly, blade comes up to 3-5/8” And will plow thru a pressure treated 4x4 without a sweat. I’ve plowed thru 3-1/2” oak with it, and the thing just chews thru it.
I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos. I’m a long time construction wood guy, who recently got into finer wood working. Your videos have given me a lot a guidance. Thanks!
Thanks Jim. I was lucky to have bitten the bullet and bought a Delta unisaw about 20 years ago. Could not be happier. The quality is still there. I added a woodpecker router fence and lift. Far and away the most productive tool in my shop.
When I started woodworking several years ago it was my dream to own a cabinet saw. I started out with the Delta 36-725 as that was all I could afford and while it was a good saw, the runout at the arbor was always a problem. After owning it for a few years I lucked out when I found a mid 1990's Jet 3hp cabinet saw at my local government surplus auction site for a mere $250. It needed a lot of work as it was rusted, was missing the fence, needed motor bearings replaced, new starter, etc but after about another $300 I was able to get it running top notch. It has been a great saw and as luck would have it, the same location I got the Jet from led me to scoring a 1960's 3HP Rockwell Unisaw for a mere $125! This saw was in even worse condition that the Jet but after much hard work and care it looks beautiful. Now I have dedicated cabinet saws for ripping and cross cutting. I never would have imagined I would own two cabinet saws after always desiring just one. Keep your eyes open for deals everyone, they come around and you have to be ready to jump as soon as they do!
I am on my third table saw. One contractor, one less expensive hybrid and now a JPS 10TS. I recently looking into a Saw Stop, but couldn't justify the cost. I did buy the Saw Stop cast iron router table insert and the square cast iron extension which eliminated my old steel ones. They fit great ( only 2 holes drilled over all) and am extremely happy with the upgrade. Oh, by the way, Great Video as always.
James your channel is amazing, the information is always right on point and I think your delivery is one of the best on TH-cam. Your videos are concise and the delivery is near perfect. You don't waste time trying to be too funny or show repetitive tasks ad nauseum, such as drilling multiple holes, you get to the point and give extremely detailed information when needed. Thank you so much you are amazing.
James, great very useful video. Luckily I made the right choice of saw before seeing this video. I'm a homeowner DIY guy that started with a small 1950's vintage Craftsman cast iron top saw 30 years ago. Made the mistake of buying a portable saw that just wasn't accurate or powerful enough. Then I limped along with a newer Craftsman 10" with an aluminum top, it always needed realigning. So my search began for a new saw I knew I wanted a cast iron top and a good fence. I boiled it down to two hybrid models eventually settling on one. I couldn't be happier with it. The hybrid was the way to go. Cast iron top, great fence, solid steel base with dust collection and retractable wheels so it's easy to move around my small shop all for $600. Keep up the great vids.
I don't disagree with anything here really, But I will say that if you have more time than money even the cheapest jobsite saw can get the job done. I grew up working with my father with an $89 builder square table saw and ran it for 20 years until the motor burned out. It was junk, objectively speaking, but you could take your time making sure the fence was lined up and use clamps to hold it in place, build extension tables as needed, we had it on a rolling stand that bolted against the work bench as a table. Never had a problem with 4x8 sheets or dadoing cuts. Probably not enough power for hardwood, but it was just fine, if a bit tedious and annoying to set up cuts. I suppose my point is you just might be better off having a junk table saw today that you can make do the job if you work with it rather than having no saw for a year or two while you save up. and the $100 won't set you back that far on saving for a better saw.
While doing interior carpentry work to my home I bought a table saw at Wal Mart for less than 200. I was only wanting to be able to make square cuts along with 45s to cut my own window trim. I'll say for what I needed I was surprised at the accuracy and ease of cutting straight and accurate. I made a side table same height and a couple jigs for specific cuts. It did all fine but the quality waned with time and I had to use square to check fence. The table also developed problems. It was however well worth the $ it cost and Id recommend it for this type job as well for a beginner. I was both and it helped me recognize what I liked or didn't as well as what all I could do if this was the only floor tool I had room to use. They all even the 189. dollar model can be dangerous and cut hands like wood. Use safely.
I started with a 99 dollar table top from K-Mart. That was about 35 years ago. My wife bought me a Ridgid contractor saw about 6 years ago. So for it has served me well. I do like it’s portability. I build small things up to desks ,shelving units. I’ve learned to measure twice,cut once and allow a bit for sanding. I found your videos only a few weeks ago. Thank you for sharing your information and experience.
I've used the same Harbor Freight portable 10" table saw for the last 13 years and it has held up to what I use it for. Would I love a cabinet saw? Hell yeah. But it is not in my budget. Great video.
@Harry Knows well, like I said, mine is much older, maybe the quality has dropped since I got mine, plus, I'm only on my second general purpose blade in the tool, seems to me that those guys who are always forcing a cut are using too much pressure whether it is a saw or a drill. Wears it the cutters quicker. I've always let the tool do it's job at its own pace. I rarely even use the dog's on a chainsaw. Sharp teeth and gravity does the job well enough. Of course you don't have gravity helping with a table saw cut, but light pressure greatly reduces burning in the wood and heat in the blade that allows it to dull more quickly. Thanks for the well wishes, that some day I can afford a better table/cabinet saw.
In 1972 I bought my Delta Rockwell Contractor’s saw with cast iron top and wings-and it’s still the center of my workshop. From Day One it’s been wired for 220 volts. My first modification was a right-side laminate top extension. Then I added a removable out-feed table. When Beisemeyer fences became available, I immediately ordered one; it is infinitely better than the OEM rip-fence! I cannot remember when I replaced the standard V-belt with a Link V-belt, but I do remember how much less vibration I felt. I still have the original blade guard with splitter, but I normally use zero-clearance inserts with splitters. Of course, I’ve made all sorts of jigs, push blocks, feather boards, sleds, etc. over time. Bottom line: it’s served me well for decades; so, I can heartily endorse your comments about this type of table saw.
Thank you soooooo much for making a damn video that wasn't filled with sponsored BS, no tricks or games. You made a professional video that told exactly what needed to be said and plugged your material perfectly AND in a clear voice! The value of this video is well beyond (at this time) the 323,095 views. The 158 people that gave this video a thumbs down are clearly into harry potter coffee mug collectables and furious that their pokemon app will not load. Thank you again!
Thanks. This video led me to spend some time watching classifieds. I found a used contractor saw with a cast iron top and wings and restored it. It is such a good saw, and I saved a lot of money going this route.
you broke it down so simply that even I could understand it. Love this video. I was going to get another job site saw but youve convinced me to save up for a good contractor saw. Maybe one day Ill get a hybrid
I started woodworking a couple of months ago and wasted my money on a ridgid portable saw. It takes me a hell of a lot of time to adjust the fence, the rivig knife is aligned with the blade. Complete waste, I wish I saw this video earlier, I would have saved up my money for a real contractor saw.
I just bought a 1954 Delta Milwaukee contractor saw for 70 bucks. Had to drive, just like you said, but WELL worth it! Sweeeeet saw I tell you. (VERY heavy, too!) Man, I just got lucky on that one. Great and informative presentation!
Great video. As an amateur woodworker and cabinetmaker, I splurged for a DeWalt DW746 with sliding miter table and mobile base and never regretted it. Awesome saw that has always done what I asked of it. I imagine other hybrid saws would do a great job as well, but I have never regretted the investment in the cast iron sliding miter table. This thing is crazy solid. Carry on!
Good content. I just picked up a delta unisaw a few months ago. The lady I purchased it from her husband passed suddenly. She was selling all of his tools and he had lots of tools. After a little negotiation, I managed to purchase the saw along with a few more items for $900. The saw even came with the original receipt which was purchased in 1983. I was 2yrs old at the time. After a little cleanup and a new blade this thing is the best. The only drawback is there isnt a riving knife on the market that will work with unisaws thats readily available.
Really appreciate your objectivity in this video. Good content and sound advice! Buy the best saw you can afford and can fit in your shop as a hobbyist. But there is probably a ceiling where the costs begin to outweigh the benefits.
This info is pure gold, Stumpy! I started out with a Craftsman contractor saw, and upgraded the fence. It serves me well. Thanks! And a special thanks for your videos on table saw safety!
Vintage contractors saw for me. Craftsman 113 with cast iron top, delta t3 fence, custom extension wings and better belt/pulleys. love the old thing, does everything I need it to and I have less that 400.00 into it.
I too have one of those old craftsman 113. Keep it clean and lubed. After market Vega Pro 52 fence - great guns. Also added the trunnion adjustment brackets. Can’t recall the name offhand. Very pleased. Only nits are insert location and size relative to the blade (blade sets too far back for a splitter), and the blade guard needs redesign to incorporate dust collection.
Bought a Craftsman contractor saw with Exact-a-Rip fence about 25 years ago. All cast iron top & extensions, still made by Emerson Electric in St Louis back then. I am the only operator & it's still in mint condition! The only noise it makes is blade whistle, smooth as silk. Fence is offset to right to cut 44 to 45", 3 3/8" depth of cut - watch fingers! 😉👍
Okay, you said to leave a comment.... just now seeing this, having finally pulled the trigger on a SawStop Cabinet Saw (3HP). Yes, I paid a LOT of money for it - and I am just a retiree who fits your ‘hobbyist building small projects’ description. For me, however, the blade stop feature was the deciding factor. FYI: you are becoming one of my favorites for shop talk, tips, techniques. Thanks for what you do!
Stumpy. I've been a DIYer forever. I build & fix just about everything not electronic. Cabinetry & simple furniture manufacture are satisfying hobby & mental therapy. Although have been watching you & others on TH-cam for years, I always enjoy your detailed, well thought out explanations from sharpening to tool selections. Thank you! Thank you!!
This is brilliant advice and articulately presented. Hybrid saws aren't something I commonly see in my usual haunts, but you've convinced me to be patient and hang on for a decent one. Cheers, James!
HI, James. I really love your videos and the things you've built and designed. Regarding this video though, I have a question. Is the Sawstop professional a hybrid, or Cabinet table saw? In other words. Do the trunnions and motor mount to an internal framework, Or do they hang from the under side of the top itself? Thanks, and keep building more Awesome projects. Doug
I was 54 years old before I finally got a shop large enough for my contractor's saw. I wanted 21 feet of length for plywood, at least 10 feet each side of the blade. I got a second identical saw as payment for some minor work I did, as well as a radial arm saw I can find no use for. I still have my Skil 10" portable that started it all, but mostly as a memory of what was. Good video. Thanks.
Great advice ...I did exactly as you recommended...I picked up an old JET contractor saw...for $200 bucks and found a brand new old stock fence on line for $100 and a Incre jig miter gauge for about $25....built some sleds and jigs aligned it ....Took the blade down to an old guy who sharpened it for me...$10 bucks..and was happy as hell with it...built my work bench and shop cabinets with it...That old saw always exceeded my abilities...Never could I honestly say...If only I had a better table saw....Watched the ads and bought a guys 14 inch band saw and Dewalt plunge router and surface planer with a spare set of blades and a toolbox full of router bits all for $200 and went and sprung for that Harbor Freight dust collector ....I couldn't have been happier...I bet I spent more on lumber than I had spent equipping that shop with tools!
I have 3 Unisaws from the 1940s I have restored and upgraded with Beisenmyer fences. They are wicked good with a lot of power and a cool history. They are such a joy to use.
I've been a pretty serious DIYer for about 15 years - currently remodeling my kitchen. I've learned the hard way to embrace the adage "buy once, cry once". When I started out, I cheaped out on many of my tools and suffered every time I used it, until I eventually bought the more expensive one anyway. Not planning to make that mistake with my table saw when I finally graduate from home projects to furniture building. I'll open my wallet, let Sawstop have their way with me, weep gently for a few days, then enjoy a few decades of stress free cutting. Why Sawstop, and not a Powermatic or used Unisaw? I have teenagers that would like to build with me. So until someone breaks the monopoly, Sawstop is a no-brainer. Certainly easier than explaining nine fingered children to the wife.
I am with you. I am in my 60s and new to table saws. I also know I am slowing down, my balance and reflexes are not what they used to be, I did not see that one coming. I will spend the extra grand or so and feel better. I don't need any serious injuries at this point of my life, no one does.
I still have the nearly 70 year old Delta Homecraft that I inherited from by dad. It isn’t large, but it has a cast iron top and the external motor which also drives the attached 4” jointer by switching the belt. I grew up with this saw, watching my dad use it, then using it myself. He bought it new when I was about 5 and I’ll be 74 in a couple of months. It isn’t the biggest or most feature-rich, but it has gotten the job done for a long time.
I wish this was out there 3 years ago! I too started on an awful jobsite saw. I waited out for nearly a year a found a ~20 yr old Jet contractor with solid cast iron wings and rewound 1.5hp 18amp motor, mobile base, mostly new Incra TS-LS 52" fence with joinery system ($900 on it's own), and a few accessories for $800. The deals are out there, you just have to be patient. I have probably about 8 hours in setup, tuning, re-tuning, and more tuning and the blade and fence are within .002" of the miter gauge. That was as close as I was going to get, no matter how much longer I fiddled with it. This should last me many years until I get a new house, budget, and ok from the little lady to upgrade to a cabinet saw. Best advice as Stumpy said is be patient, look every day on craigslist, and be prepared to drive (2hrs for me).
Everyone starts out with the table top 10" toy saw. That's a given and also forgiven. You want real results you buy into a quality 12" cabinet saw. I personally don't have the space for one in my own shop but wish I did. They are much more accurate and reliable. Yes they cost more but if you're a seasoned woodworker you know this is the best investment in your business/hobby you can make. It will give you decades of service and will be a value even when sold every time.
Many thanks for another super survey of the field; in this case table saws. Having used all of the types of saws you mentioned in my 55 years of woodworking, I can attest that everything you said was right on the money. My first table saw, for my basement cabinetmaking shop, was a 1960's vintage Craftsman contractor's saw, with a cast iron table, flimsy stamped steel extension wings and (as you warned) a very poor fence. The fence had to be manually adjusted, front and back, to be sure it was parallel to the blade--and then one had to verify that the width of the cut was still correct. Often this was a circular procedure. All that was corrected when I purchased a Biesemeyer after-market fence. I still have that fence and use it on my Delta Unisaw--40 years after I gave my Craftsman table saw to charity. Yet, as you also said, the contractor's saw is not a bad machine. The the organization I gave it to used it to do all the carpentry required to build a complete house.
HI, James. I really love your videos and the things you've built and designed. Regarding this video though, I have a question. Is the Sawstop professional a hybrid, or Cabinet table saw? In other words. Do the trunnions and motor mount to an internal framework, Or do they hang from the under side of the top itself? Thanks, and keep building more Awesome projects. Doug
SS Pro is a full-on Cabinet saw. SS Industrial is also a cabinet saw, just beefier. Notably the Trunions are stout enough to handle the demands of the optional 7.5 HP motor, and the table is larger, thicker and heavier to withstand the greater forces involved.
I was a flooring/remodeling contractor for many yrs- i have an old delta plastic/aluminum saw exactly like you were speaking of LOL BUT it weighs like 30lbs toss it in my truck & GO! did a ton of hardwood floors with it never lacked for power just keep a sharp blade
As a 70 year old still working carpenter, you mentioning the Rockwell contractor saw. My back problems probably originated lugging that saw around. My choice for portable saws without a roll around cart is Dewalt. With a cart Saw Stop is by far my favorite.
I started woodworking about 2 years ago, with musucal instruments - guitars, drums - as the focus. I bought the small Bosch portable table saw. It drove me crazy. Last summer I found a used Ridgid contractor saw. This older model has cast iron wings. It also has a built-in wheel-lift system, which is essential for me because I use it, along with my planer and jointer, in a single car garage, requiring me to move power tools around. The contractor saw is a dream in comparison to the portable saw, even though I have yet to upgrade the fence. I did retrofit a dust collection chamber beneeth the saw, which capture perhaps 60% of the dust. So Stumpy's advice is right on.
As usual great advice. I bought a used craftsman saw(with a supposed 3hp motor) six years ago with a biesemeyer fence with two rockler tables one with a Rockler router table. I spent $200 which is mind blowing for this saw and accessories. I have made a lot of money off this saw. I just bought and am waiting for the Grizzly Shop Fox w1888. It is a hybrid saw 2 amp and $1500. I am glad you think these saws are a good idea.
I didn't know DeWalt made a contractor saw. I've seen DeWalts jobsite saws, and they're great. Summit stumpy kinda skipped a level of new contractor saws
I decided on a used contractor saw, A Rockwell 9" with a Dayton 1.5hp motor that can be wired for either 115 or 230v. It has a decent looking beefy fence and what looks like an oversize miter gauge and has cast iron extensions on it I got for $250. I intend to do a full restore on it, cleaning, repainting, replacing bearings &c. I'm just an occasional DIYer so I'm sure it's more saw than I'll ever need. Thanks for helping me decide. :)
Thanks James. I have seen some guys build their benchtop saw into their bench for very small shops. The bench creates additional table space and outfeed. One guy even made a fence running off the edge of the bench. Doing that with something like the Bosch or Sawstop version may be a very good option for a wood shop in a garage.
I built our entire set of kitchen cabinets, both lower and upper (about 45 feet of each including island), out of cherry veneered 3/4 inch plywood (cherry face frames) using a job site contractor saw about 20 years ago. It worked out fine but I spent an incredible amount of time adjusting and checking the fence each and every time. Now we are remodeling our first home (kept it after we moved and rented it out for 15 years) and I plan to pick up a hybrid saw but want one at 120 volts since I don't need a 3 hp motor with the type of woodworking I do as a hobby. This is a great video and I am leaning toward a Grizzly brand since their hybrids at the 1200 buck range have very substantial fence system that uses tube steel and not aluminum. If I had ready 220 volts in this older home I would go up a bit but I think 2 hp will work and I want the money on the fence for precision more than anything else. For this house, doing entire kitchen with my son to include upper, lowers, and built in bookshelves for an entire room that will become my new office. I can't wait to get started when the weather improves here.
I mentioned this in another video, but I rented a Makita table saw from Home Depot recently, and the fence still had some play in it. This was my very first time using a table saw so I didn't know better. I was definitely making some rookie mistakes when I first used it, but after I watched your video about how critical fence calibration - making it exactly parallel to the blade - is, I think the fact that it kicked back a piece of wood into my garage door was caused in part by this crappy fence. After watching your video I measured the fence distance from the blade at 2 or 3 points and it was off by as much as a 1/4" from near to far end. I returned the saw today and Home Depot gave me 25% off the rental because of this and they said the fence was full of dust and needed to be inspected. So - two other questions: 1. How much play/wobble should there be in a fence once it is calibrated? 2. What are some good aftermarket fences to buy? (Links may be below for that.)
I’m getting more serious about woodworking. So much so that I am tearing down my shed to build a work shop. Because my shop won’t be large I looked at portable saws but don’t want an aluminum table. So I have my sights set on a Delta 36-725 “hybrid” saw. I did my research and this looks like the best saw for the $. It has a cast iron table and the fence is really decent. Thanks for all your videos and I look forward to all your future ones.
I know this is some time after this comment but I am looking as the same saw. The only thing that has me not running to the store is all the reviews I’ve seen is the motor goes rather quick. I also know someone who has this exact saw and had the same issue. But if you get it and it works out you got a good one!!
@@charliemorrow1654 there is a newer version of that saw (36-725 T2). The motor is bigger (and the fence has a "mini" fence that flips over for thin material). I'll keep you posted.
Nice Video. I was recently in the market for a table saw when my grandfather heard about it and offered me his old contractor saw from what I would assume is the 60's or 70's. After seeing the belt drive and the hanging motor for the first time, I half expected it to break in the first week. Instead, it's one of the best presents and one of the most useful tools I have ever been fortunate enough to receive. After the experience, I completely agree with your advice. And I'm going to follow your advice on finding a new fence, Thank you
Great advice James, I used a old Sears 1.5hp table saw for years and built a truck load of quality stuff with it. Sold it and got a used Grizzly 10" 3 HP 240V Cabinet RIGHT-Tilting Table Saw, now this thing is smooth! Wish I would have up graded long before I did. Thanks for posting.
I have a Craftsman 3 HP Contractors saw that came with cast iron top and wings. It also has a Craftsman Exact-i-rip 72" wide fence system which I believe is on par with a Biesemeyer. I tuned it and run high quality blades. It is pretty much vibration free especially with the addition of a link belt. Unbelievable smooth cuts. I bought this used in 2001 for $300 in California where everything is overpriced and have done a lot of cabinetry and ships carpenter type work with it for the past 18 years running a lot of walnut, maple, mahogany and teak with no trouble at all. I also love the Craftsman tilt head band saw. Large table and it is much easier to run angle cuts on a flat table with the blade angled than the other way around. I is like a miniature shipwrights saw. i think it is the best small band saw around and you can pick them up for about $75.
I have a12” craftsman from 1973 that I got when it was new it has 2 hrs motor on it ! With a Vega fence system! You are right it does the job for me!!!🤗 Thanks Jim for sharing! Good words to think about!
Fantastic!! Never even heard of Hybrid saws. I have a custom elevator cab business and seldom cut anything thicker than 3/4". I use a SawTrax panel saw for ripping and crosscutting my panels. I have a portable RIGID table saw that has served me well, but yes, its loud, and the bearings are starting to go. Always believed a good saw with a great blade can get me what I need. Thanks for this video!!
My old Ridgid TS3612 table saw has been doing everything I need since 2002. Does great, rewired the motor for 220V use, it rips through 2" thick oak just fine. The saw itself is quite sturdy and came with a mobile base which is useless to me as unfortunately my shop has a dirt floor. The fence is very accurate and very smooth thanks to nice plastic glides in the front and rear of the fence, it locks down very solid and with a zero clearance insert and a good blade it cuts very nice too. If I were making a lot of projects I'd certainly love a cabinet style saw with large extensions but the TS3612 does fine for everything I've needed it for.
I almost dropped 3 grand on a sawstop professional. But after a LOT of research, I ended up buying (believe it or not) a skilsaw SPT99-12 for $500. This thing is a beast, & portable for my garage workshop. Love the rack & pinion fence. It may not be for a professional in a dedicated shop, but I’m surprised you over looked this class of saw based based on your topic.
I have more than 40 years experience as a professional cabinet maker. This is a good, concise review of table saw choices. I would add just one point. That is, which way does the blade tilt when at miter? Many saws (most Rockwells) tilt toward the fence. This means that miter cuts of wide stock must be made face down. Having the blade tilt away from the fence is a feature I consider important.
I picked up an old Rockwell 34-450 that was missing the fence system as well as the all important splitter / anti kick back assembly. I replaced the spindle bearings, new switch and an excellent fence system. Sadly I cannot find the removable splitter anywhere.. It does have the long warp around blade guards so I should be happy. Runs like a charm and accurate as he devil 😈.
At the end of 2017 I upgraded from my craftsman bench top table saw (crap) to a Shop Fox 1837 Hybrid. Fantastic investment! It is everything I will ever need in a table saw in my garage. There is not cut I will need to do that it cannot do safely and accurately. The only downside is the stamped steel wings, but as long as they are level with the top, what do they really need to do but be there? Excellent video, Jimmy.
Got a used Sear's Craftsman Contractor Saw, with cast iron top and wings for $125, at a farm auction last year. Top had some surface rust and slight amount of pitting. WD-40 and 1500 wet/dry sand paper, took all the surface rust off in a few minutes. Going through the rest of it now.
I started with a Jet Contractor saw, upgraded to a Powermatic 66, and eventually to a Minimax CU350 combination machine with an 8.5' sliding table. Much improved dust collection over the cabinet saw and the ability to make beautiful square cuts for any panel. No more crosscut sleds when you have a slider. The total footprint of the machine was actually less that the machines it was replacing (jointer, planer, tablesaw). That was 18 years ago and I haven't been tempted to upgrade to something better, because there really isn't anything better.
My first table saw was a circular saw upside down on some plywood. Used it for 16 years. Next Rryobi basic with a stand (used) 9 years. Now (at 55) I have the largest Ridged table saw and I love it. Even with my first set up I could still make 3.5 millimeter strips for tressel bridges for my train set
Been struggling with this exact question - shop size and the (in)ability to move a big cabinet or hybrid around is the issue. Hadn’t pulled back to the DeWalt portable (nice fence) quite yet ... and then saw your show on track saw set ups for the full sheets. Thought yesterday “ah ha, that’s the mix” -- and now I need a hybrid again. So indecisive.... siiiggghh
I have a small garage (no room to even set up my tools *in* the garage) so picked up a Bosch Reaxx jobsite saw when they were still available because I liked the features compared to the Sawstop (particularly the "it doesn't destroy your blade" and "easy to reset/replace cartridge" that costs half as much). That said, we all knowhow the court cases went there so I'm stuck with a pretty rare tool that thankfully I can still buy replacement cartridges for (I've set it off a couple times when forgetting to disable the sensor while cutting aluminum). It's definitely not as powerful as I'd like, but it's what I have room for and the extra safety is always a good thing.
Your advice regarding holding off and saving up a bit more for a better saw, is great advice for those that have the time. Unless what is going to be cut are hardwoods, I would advise people to go for it, if they are short on time as well. Using one will be more finicky, granted. But what could one expect from a cheap set. Buy the most expensive one you can afford. If they are really cheap, like $50, then just be aware that you will most likely have to fidget around with them longer prior to each cut job. Possibly even more frequently. And dare not dream cutting hardwoods. Unless you have a heap of spare drivebelts on reserve.
I have a Delta hybrid saw that I bought six years ago and I love this thing. It cuts straight and it has the option for a 54" table which I bought with mine. The down side is with the insurance which mine is good for two more years I'm out 1,600 bucks on it but I don't regret one red cent I paid for that saw.
Good video and good advice. I bought a Jet hybrid saw six years ago and haven't been sorry for one day since. Lots of board feet pushed through, just a little slower than a big saw.
My 70’s or 80’s Craftsman 113 has a 3 hp motor and cast iron top with stamped steel wings. I added a 50” Vega fence and built a cabinet with locking casters. It performs almost as well as the Powermatic cabinet saw used in my Dad’s shop.
I have a craftsman 113 as well however even though they say it's 3hp all the craftsmans test between 1-1.5hp. Regardless, it does almost everything I ask of it except for terrible dust collection options.
I think it's important to distinguish between fine wood working and framing/trim work in this discussion. I agree with Stumpy on the table saws when used in a shop, I have lived with good contractor saw most of my life and only now am getting a cabinet saw mainly because I wanted a made in Canada saw. As I am getting older and have been helping friends and family with renovations that I have purchased table saws (like the Bosch) and small sliding mitre saws because of their mobility (weight).
After 25 years, I finally had to retire my Ridgid contractor table saw. It served me well, but lived in an outdoor shop in the Everglades and the blade height adjustment just locked up. I hated to give up the cast iron top, I'd even added a cast iron router table wing, but I just couldn't free up the mechanism. I got a DeWalt 7491RS job site saw for less than $500 US that seems pretty good so far. Nice fence and better sawdust handling. It also freed up a ton of space in the shop.
We use a cabinet saw made by saw stop at my job, but for my own saw to get started I will purchase a track saw and a slider miter saw. But your information was good too.
I recently purchased a shop fox 1820 . 12.8 amp/3hp/220v motor. This is supposed to be a great cabinet saw. I am debating on returning it . Cabinet motor door is out of alignment by half an inch for the screw knob that keeps the door closed. It is also cross threaded. The knob will thread from the inside up until it reaches the first few outside threads. This is easily taken care of with my tap set. But when I installed the cast iron wings, I found that they would not flush up to the table in the center. Thought it was the wings, further investigation revealed the center table is warped. checked it with my machinist strait edges. and Levels corner ti corner. Your video was excellent , Although I had done a lot of research, I still wound up with a really crappie saw . Hopefully the company will correct and back their product when I speak to them Monday morning.
I bought a used Delta contractor saw mainly because it already had an Incra TS-LS fence installed. That fence alone would have justified the $800 I paid for the whole thing. That is the only fence that I know of that you can set for a specific sized cut and know it will be accurate. Color me a happy camper.
I own a big delta and I love it. I have had it over five years and the fence on it is actually dead on accurate. I always double check it but have yet to need to adjust it
In fact I’m getting ready to make it even more versatile by putting my router into the open space between the rails on the right side the way that Izzy Swan has his table saw set up. I love the idea of saving floor space and making it easier to use since in my shop I often use those two tools back to back.
Thanks for this. I'm a retired contractor making do with my portable DeWalt saw at the moment. Like you say, the fence is crap, but with care you can make do. Now I've got time on my hands I'm looking to buy better workshop tools, without spending a fortune. To be honest I don't think I've really got it in me to be a real pro cabinet maker, but I know I'd benefit from a better saw. I'm glad you endorsed some of the older, used machines, which is what I'm looking for. I've already found a nice bandsaw and jointer/thicknesser, both for under £300, and they are transforming my work. Just got to be patient now and wait for the right machine to turn up. I find your workshop mouth-watering. Do you mind me asking what it would cost (God forbid) to replace all those tools? I'm guessing the top end of six figures.
Space is at a premium in my garage, so I opted for a Dewalt DW745 (Type 4) and built a table for it with a router extension. I woul have liked to have the Bosch 10 XC, but it was nearly twice the price of the Dewalt, and I couldn't justify the expence at the time. The saw had some issues with the motor when I bought it (heavy vibration and signs of overheating even at light to moderate load), but after a repair, it works nicely. With a little patience, it will happily chew through 3" of glued up pieces of formwork plywood. I made the 1 5/8" tabletop (about 2 3/4'x4 1/4') for my workbench from glued up scrap pieces of formwork plywood that I removed the hard surface from, with the saw. I think it was about 150 yards of cuts through 13/16" plywood to make all the strips, and the saw did it without complaints. :) I rarely need more than the 24" capacity, and when I do, I use my circular saw (Bosch GKS 18V-Li) and tracks.
I have a Ryobe contractor saw. it does the job, but you when setting up a cut you need to use a framing square to check for even distance at the start of the blade and the end of the blade. Once I started checking this, I have not had a problem. This being said I would love to one day have a larger more powerful saw.
I am new to woodworking but not to power equipment as a retired ASE Master Tech. I lost one eye in an accident and so my depth perception is weak, at best. Since I can afford it, my handicap makes the Saw Stop 3 hp single phase cabinet saw the best fit for me. I know many say it isn’t worth the extra money, but it is for me!
I have the Hitachi job site C10RJ and I love. It's actually big for a job site saw. I use it a lot. The fence is great. This has a bigger rip capacity then my old cast iron contractors saw. I not at all saying this is the best saw, all I'm saying is I love it. Top 10 of the best things I purchased for $250. Hasn't let me down yet...I LOVE this channel.
Hey John, glad you brought this up, and I am glad to hear that you love it, because I just bought that saw. Have you had to do any special alignment on either of the table or the fence or anything else since you got it?
@@bobbycarmichael2562 Hi Bobby. I did make a slight adjustment to the back end of the fence. I'm a machinist by trade so a couple of thousands is like a mile to me. I'm sure I could have left it alone. The blade and the miter slot are dead on.
My Powermatic contractor saw is 20 years old now. It’s heavy. It’s fence is great. I am about to start a major tear down/tune up. So I highly recommend it as a used saw. New ones are $1600😳
I started with a cheap circular saw, mounted upside down in a 1" MDF homemade table. But since I bought my e-bay Xcalibur, there's nothing like a good cabinet saw. Mine needed a little work to get it running, a new Polygroove belt and some decent trend Blades and it cuts beautifully.
My old neighbor told me when I was having to replace an old rotted, wooden 6' step ladder that broke (while I was on it!), to spend the extra money on quality. A new fiberglass ladder costed about $20-25 MORE than a new wooden ladder. I was VERY strapped for cash and didn't really have the extra money, but I also needed the ladder for my job.
Decisions...decisions...decisions....
I can't recall his exact words, but they were something like (speaking of spending more on quality) " ....you'll still have that ladder long after the purchase price is forgotten".
So, I sucked it up and purchased the fiberglass ladder. That was in 1989, and I STILL have that ladder.
Those words have carried me through many purchases since that day. Maybe they could help somebody who's struggling with a similar decision today.
Thank you, Mr. Barthlett. Rest In Peace
I just started the wood working hobby. I consider myself a diyer right now, but will eventually would like to build small cabinets and decorative furniture. I know I have a long road of learning, and most times the information out there are diluted and confusing.
Your videos are concise, and professionally presented. No nonsense sales push, gimmicks, and mindless rants.
Thank you for your dedication to the wood working craft.
Sincerely,
wood working noob
As a fellow noob myself with only 2 semesters of woodshop and years between practice, my advice is to practice. I watched all sorts of videos before getting back into the swing of things, but you learn best from your own failures. Soaking up all of this new information is one thing, but being able to recall and apply it with skill takes practice.
This comment is 2 years old. If you've stuck with the hobby; please share what you have learned on this topic.
I very much appreciate your videos. I have worked with wood both professionally and as a hobbyist for 50 years. Your videos are informative, straight forward, and done very well. Your table saw video is spot on. Well done!
One thing I want to suggest. The motors on some older saws. The motors are vented to the atmosphere. Some folks end up replacing motors that act up. A good dusting with forced air fixes most of them. I’ve picked up a few Craftsman 10 inch models that people game up on. Blew out the motor and oiled it well and they came to life. Great channel. GO WINGS.
Finally, a discussion about table saws that didn't say you're a fool for even looking at anything but a Saw Stop. I know they are great saws and I think you might even have one, but thanks for the recommendations James. As always, much appreciated.
Saw Stop is a very good saw, but when you start getting into that money, it's worth looking at euro saws. Love Felder/Hammer.
But you are foolish if you don’t realize that anything besides SawStop is too dangerous to use on a regular basis. You are kidding yourself to not factor in the cost of accidents times their probability.
@@garnetsteen I strongly disagree. Good practices go a long way. Yes, there are people who follow bad practices, and have been lucky. Many even promote those bad practices here on YT, and if you call them out, attack you with "Safety Sally" comments and the full wrath of their rabid supporters. I feel like that cavalier attitude does more to promote unsafe practices than tools to to promote them.
But there are lots of channels here that promote good practices like the right kinds of push sticks, using riving knives, guards, etc. The good riving knife and optional overhead guard do more to protect you on the Saw Stop than the emergency braking mechanism, because amputations (partial or full) of the finger are not the worst or anywhere near the most common saw accidents. The SawStop protects against only one kind of accident, which is relatively rare compared to kickback. It's a good saw, but the religion around it is annoying.
I'm a big fan of proper euro sliding table saws. I know not everyone is. But f you look at those saws, the workflow is different enough that you don't run into many of the same issues (required brake for the blade. better riving knives, overhead guards, different operating position, workpiece carried by the sliding table, no need for sleds, better dust collection, etc.). In the UK and Europe, they're also available for relatively cheap across a broad quality range, whereas only the high-end ones tend to be available here in the US (except for with Grizzly, which has a decent lower-price one). I favor these over the Saw Stop because of all the reasons mentioned above, and how they contribute to an overall higher safety level vs the Saw Stop.
Don't get me wrong: the SawStop is a really good saw, but it's a bit of a strongly-funded sock puppet religion here on YT. There are very few channels here recommending Saw Stop who actually had to pay for it themselves. I've found that few actually disclose that openly as well, which is a bad practice.
Anyway, this is old, but the database is online and you can build your own queries. www.popularwoodworking.com/article/table-saw-injury-numbers-in-perspective/ . (It's interesting to note that doors cause more finger amputations than table saws.)
Pete Brown why?
What do the European saws have that ours do not?
Thanks for this review. My current saw is a very old Rockwell with original parts.It helped me raise my family for the past 40 yrs, and I love it. Of course, I've kept it in perfect running order. Not just a saw, an old friend that I will never get rid of. Still does amazing work!
Good advise. I used a contractors saw for more than 30 years and, except for the terrible fence, it served me well.
.
that_G_EvanP Spell check strikes again. 😁
Thanks for this post! I'm a DIY beginner and I especially appreciate the comment about waiting to buy instead of buying a cheap model that may be a bad purchase.
I just recently found a craftsman 113.something after a year of searching for only $150. I built John heitz wood fence which works surprising well. polished the cast top and waxed it good. I love that saw. thanks james. good video
TheMatterManipulator those are the last version of the old belt drive BT3000 and BT 3100 series. They’re so famous they have their own forum and fan base among contractors. Really good saw, but for a portable saw, takes allot of footprint in the truck.
I’ve had 2 of these. Now have something similar, with muuuuch more torque. Arguably strongest saw u can find that’s portable and is aimed at contractors. Skilsaw sp-99.
Large table,
Blade set towards back of table so great for crosscut sleds.
Rack-punion fence ( like dewalt, but better. Larger gears and lass slop)
And most importantly, blade comes up to 3-5/8”
And will plow thru a pressure treated 4x4 without a sweat.
I’ve plowed thru 3-1/2” oak with it, and the thing just chews thru it.
I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos. I’m a long time construction wood guy, who recently got into finer wood working. Your videos have given me a lot a guidance. Thanks!
Awesome advise. I love your videos, James. I wish I could apprentice under you, but at 68 years old I suppose it will have to be in the next life.
Thanks Jim. I was lucky to have bitten the bullet and bought a Delta unisaw about 20 years ago. Could not be happier. The quality is still there. I added a woodpecker router fence and lift. Far and away the most productive tool in my shop.
When I started woodworking several years ago it was my dream to own a cabinet saw. I started out with the Delta 36-725 as that was all I could afford and while it was a good saw, the runout at the arbor was always a problem. After owning it for a few years I lucked out when I found a mid 1990's Jet 3hp cabinet saw at my local government surplus auction site for a mere $250. It needed a lot of work as it was rusted, was missing the fence, needed motor bearings replaced, new starter, etc but after about another $300 I was able to get it running top notch. It has been a great saw and as luck would have it, the same location I got the Jet from led me to scoring a 1960's 3HP Rockwell Unisaw for a mere $125! This saw was in even worse condition that the Jet but after much hard work and care it looks beautiful. Now I have dedicated cabinet saws for ripping and cross cutting. I never would have imagined I would own two cabinet saws after always desiring just one. Keep your eyes open for deals everyone, they come around and you have to be ready to jump as soon as they do!
Zerostar369 what do you mean by “runout on the arbor”? I don’t know what that means.
I am on my third table saw. One contractor, one less expensive hybrid and now a JPS 10TS. I recently looking into a Saw Stop, but couldn't justify the cost. I did buy the Saw Stop cast iron router table insert and the square cast iron extension which eliminated my old steel ones. They fit great ( only 2 holes drilled over all) and am extremely happy with the upgrade. Oh, by the way, Great Video as always.
James your channel is amazing, the information is always right on point and I think your delivery is one of the best on TH-cam. Your videos are concise and the delivery is near perfect. You don't waste time trying to be too funny or show repetitive tasks ad nauseum, such as drilling multiple holes, you get to the point and give extremely detailed information when needed. Thank you so much you are amazing.
James, great very useful video. Luckily I made the right choice of saw before seeing this video. I'm a homeowner DIY guy that started with a small 1950's vintage Craftsman cast iron top saw 30 years ago. Made the mistake of buying a portable saw that just wasn't accurate or powerful enough. Then I limped along with a newer Craftsman 10" with an aluminum top, it always needed realigning. So my search began for a new saw I knew I wanted a cast iron top and a good fence. I boiled it down to two hybrid models eventually settling on one. I couldn't be happier with it. The hybrid was the way to go. Cast iron top, great fence, solid steel base with dust collection and retractable wheels so it's easy to move around my small shop all for $600. Keep up the great vids.
I don't disagree with anything here really, But I will say that if you have more time than money even the cheapest jobsite saw can get the job done. I grew up working with my father with an $89 builder square table saw and ran it for 20 years until the motor burned out. It was junk, objectively speaking, but you could take your time making sure the fence was lined up and use clamps to hold it in place, build extension tables as needed, we had it on a rolling stand that bolted against the work bench as a table. Never had a problem with 4x8 sheets or dadoing cuts. Probably not enough power for hardwood, but it was just fine, if a bit tedious and annoying to set up cuts. I suppose my point is you just might be better off having a junk table saw today that you can make do the job if you work with it rather than having no saw for a year or two while you save up. and the $100 won't set you back that far on saving for a better saw.
Thank you this comment
While doing interior carpentry work to my home I bought a table saw at Wal Mart for less than 200. I was only wanting to be able to make square cuts along with 45s to cut my own window trim. I'll say for what I needed I was surprised at the accuracy and ease of cutting straight and accurate. I made a side table same height and a couple jigs for specific cuts. It did all fine but the quality waned with time and I had to use square to check fence. The table also developed problems. It was however well worth the $ it cost and Id recommend it for this type job as well for a beginner. I was both and it helped me recognize what I liked or didn't as well as what all I could do if this was the only floor tool I had room to use. They all even the 189. dollar model can be dangerous and cut hands like wood. Use safely.
I started with a 99 dollar table top from K-Mart. That was about 35 years ago. My wife bought me a Ridgid contractor saw about 6 years ago. So for it has served me well. I do like it’s portability. I build small things up to desks ,shelving units. I’ve learned to measure twice,cut once and allow a bit for sanding.
I found your videos only a few weeks ago. Thank you for sharing your information and experience.
I've used the same Harbor Freight portable 10" table saw for the last 13 years and it has held up to what I use it for. Would I love a cabinet saw? Hell yeah. But it is not in my budget. Great video.
@Harry Knows well, like I said, mine is much older, maybe the quality has dropped since I got mine, plus, I'm only on my second general purpose blade in the tool, seems to me that those guys who are always forcing a cut are using too much pressure whether it is a saw or a drill. Wears it the cutters quicker. I've always let the tool do it's job at its own pace. I rarely even use the dog's on a chainsaw. Sharp teeth and gravity does the job well enough. Of course you don't have gravity helping with a table saw cut, but light pressure greatly reduces burning in the wood and heat in the blade that allows it to dull more quickly. Thanks for the well wishes, that some day I can afford a better table/cabinet saw.
In 1972 I bought my Delta Rockwell Contractor’s saw with cast iron top and wings-and it’s still the center of my workshop. From Day One it’s been wired for 220 volts. My first modification was a right-side laminate top extension. Then I added a removable out-feed table. When Beisemeyer fences became available, I immediately ordered one; it is infinitely better than the OEM rip-fence! I cannot remember when I replaced the standard V-belt with a Link V-belt, but I do remember how much less vibration I felt. I still have the original blade guard with splitter, but I normally use zero-clearance inserts with splitters.
Of course, I’ve made all sorts of jigs, push blocks, feather boards, sleds, etc. over time. Bottom line: it’s served me well for decades; so, I can heartily endorse your comments about this type of table saw.
Thank you soooooo much for making a damn video that wasn't filled with sponsored BS, no tricks or games. You made a professional video that told exactly what needed to be said and plugged your material perfectly AND in a clear voice! The value of this video is well beyond (at this time) the 323,095 views. The 158 people that gave this video a thumbs down are clearly into harry potter coffee mug collectables and furious that their pokemon app will not load. Thank you again!
Thanks. This video led me to spend some time watching classifieds. I found a used contractor saw with a cast iron top and wings and restored it. It is such a good saw, and I saved a lot of money going this route.
you broke it down so simply that even I could understand it. Love this video. I was going to get another job site saw but youve convinced me to save up for a good contractor saw. Maybe one day Ill get a hybrid
I started woodworking a couple of months ago and wasted my money on a ridgid portable saw. It takes me a hell of a lot of time to adjust the fence, the rivig knife is aligned with the blade. Complete waste, I wish I saw this video earlier, I would have saved up my money for a real contractor saw.
I just bought a 1954 Delta Milwaukee contractor saw for 70 bucks. Had to drive, just like you said, but WELL worth it! Sweeeeet saw I tell you. (VERY heavy, too!) Man, I just got lucky on that one. Great and informative presentation!
That was one of the most informatiive videos per minute I have ever seeen.
Great video. As an amateur woodworker and cabinetmaker, I splurged for a DeWalt DW746 with sliding miter table and mobile base and never regretted it. Awesome saw that has always done what I asked of it. I imagine other hybrid saws would do a great job as well, but I have never regretted the investment in the cast iron sliding miter table. This thing is crazy solid. Carry on!
More good advice-thank you. I had just about settled on a hybrid saw. I think it’s right for my purposes!
Good content. I just picked up a delta unisaw a few months ago. The lady I purchased it from her husband passed suddenly. She was selling all of his tools and he had lots of tools. After a little negotiation, I managed to purchase the saw along with a few more items for $900. The saw even came with the original receipt which was purchased in 1983. I was 2yrs old at the time. After a little cleanup and a new blade this thing is the best. The only drawback is there isnt a riving knife on the market that will work with unisaws thats readily available.
Really appreciate your objectivity in this video. Good content and sound advice! Buy the best saw you can afford and can fit in your shop as a hobbyist. But there is probably a ceiling where the costs begin to outweigh the benefits.
This info is pure gold, Stumpy! I started out with a Craftsman contractor saw, and upgraded the fence. It serves me well. Thanks! And a special thanks for your videos on table saw safety!
Little late to the party here but how did you upgrade the fence on yours?
Vintage contractors saw for me. Craftsman 113 with cast iron top, delta t3 fence, custom extension wings and better belt/pulleys. love the old thing, does everything I need it to and I have less that 400.00 into it.
same :D
I too have one of those old craftsman 113. Keep it clean and lubed. After market Vega Pro 52 fence - great guns. Also added the trunnion adjustment brackets. Can’t recall the name offhand. Very pleased. Only nits are insert location and size relative to the blade (blade sets too far back for a splitter), and the blade guard needs redesign to incorporate dust collection.
@@grobish PALS :)
The PALS kit is next on my list. Still got it to .002 accuracy without it but they are a pain to adjust
Bought a Craftsman contractor saw with Exact-a-Rip fence about 25 years ago.
All cast iron top & extensions, still made by Emerson Electric in St Louis back then.
I am the only operator & it's still in mint condition!
The only noise it makes is blade whistle, smooth as silk.
Fence is offset to right to cut 44 to 45", 3 3/8" depth of cut - watch fingers! 😉👍
your videos and advices are very professional.
thanks
Okay, you said to leave a comment.... just now seeing this, having finally pulled the trigger on a SawStop Cabinet Saw (3HP). Yes, I paid a LOT of money for it - and I am just a retiree who fits your ‘hobbyist building small projects’ description. For me, however, the blade stop feature was the deciding factor.
FYI: you are becoming one of my favorites for shop talk, tips, techniques. Thanks for what you do!
Just wanted to say THANKS for the great advice on table saws and.....GO REDWINGS!!!!!
"REDWINGS” yuck, I prefer unpainted cast-iron wings which are usually grey... and NJ Devils ;-)
I find I keep coming back to this video.
And LGB!
Miss the old "chuck" Norris.
Stumpy. I've been a DIYer forever. I build & fix just about everything not electronic. Cabinetry & simple furniture manufacture are satisfying hobby & mental therapy. Although have been watching you & others on TH-cam for years, I always enjoy your detailed, well thought out explanations from sharpening to tool selections. Thank you! Thank you!!
Best overview and and explanation I’ve seen or heard,
Thank you for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This is brilliant advice and articulately presented. Hybrid saws aren't something I commonly see in my usual haunts, but you've convinced me to be patient and hang on for a decent one. Cheers, James!
The saw i have is a dewalt dw745 its accurate its powerful it never has not pleased me and it rips through hardwoods with no problem
HI, James. I really love your videos and the things you've built and designed. Regarding this video though, I have a question. Is the Sawstop professional a hybrid, or Cabinet table saw?
In other words. Do the trunnions and motor mount to an internal framework, Or do they hang from the under side of the top itself?
Thanks, and keep building more Awesome projects.
Doug
I was 54 years old before I finally got a shop large enough for my contractor's saw. I wanted 21 feet of length for plywood, at least 10 feet each side of the blade. I got a second identical saw as payment for some minor work I did, as well as a radial arm saw I can find no use for. I still have my Skil 10" portable that started it all, but mostly as a memory of what was. Good video. Thanks.
I didn't hear anything that was said. I was shocked and was viewing your background in your video in awe. So was table saw is the best? ;)
Great advice ...I did exactly as you recommended...I picked up an old JET contractor saw...for $200 bucks and found a brand new old stock fence on line for $100 and a Incre jig miter gauge for about $25....built some sleds and jigs aligned it ....Took the blade down to an old guy who sharpened it for me...$10 bucks..and was happy as hell with it...built my work bench and shop cabinets with it...That old saw always exceeded my abilities...Never could I honestly say...If only I had a better table saw....Watched the ads and bought a guys 14 inch band saw and Dewalt plunge router and surface planer with a spare set of blades and a toolbox full of router bits all for $200 and went and sprung for that Harbor Freight dust collector ....I couldn't have been happier...I bet I spent more on lumber than I had spent equipping that shop with tools!
You didn’t trash your first saw, I have it! Thanks for the video.
I have 3 Unisaws from the 1940s I have restored and upgraded with Beisenmyer fences. They are wicked good with a lot of power and a cool history. They are such a joy to use.
I've been a pretty serious DIYer for about 15 years - currently remodeling my kitchen. I've learned the hard way to embrace the adage "buy once, cry once". When I started out, I cheaped out on many of my tools and suffered every time I used it, until I eventually bought the more expensive one anyway. Not planning to make that mistake with my table saw when I finally graduate from home projects to furniture building. I'll open my wallet, let Sawstop have their way with me, weep gently for a few days, then enjoy a few decades of stress free cutting.
Why Sawstop, and not a Powermatic or used Unisaw? I have teenagers that would like to build with me. So until someone breaks the monopoly, Sawstop is a no-brainer. Certainly easier than explaining nine fingered children to the wife.
I am with you. I am in my 60s and new to table saws. I also know I am slowing down, my balance and reflexes are not what they used to be, I did not see that one coming. I will spend the extra grand or so and feel better. I don't need any serious injuries at this point of my life, no one does.
I wept until my SawStop arrived. Now I am all smiles!!!
I still have the nearly 70 year old Delta Homecraft that I inherited from by dad. It isn’t large, but it has a cast iron top and the external motor which also drives the attached 4” jointer by switching the belt. I grew up with this saw, watching my dad use it, then using it myself. He bought it new when I was about 5 and I’ll be 74 in a couple of months. It isn’t the biggest or most feature-rich, but it has gotten the job done for a long time.
The timing on this video is perfect. Thank you
I wish this was out there 3 years ago! I too started on an awful jobsite saw. I waited out for nearly a year a found a ~20 yr old Jet contractor with solid cast iron wings and rewound 1.5hp 18amp motor, mobile base, mostly new Incra TS-LS 52" fence with joinery system ($900 on it's own), and a few accessories for $800. The deals are out there, you just have to be patient. I have probably about 8 hours in setup, tuning, re-tuning, and more tuning and the blade and fence are within .002" of the miter gauge. That was as close as I was going to get, no matter how much longer I fiddled with it. This should last me many years until I get a new house, budget, and ok from the little lady to upgrade to a cabinet saw. Best advice as Stumpy said is be patient, look every day on craigslist, and be prepared to drive (2hrs for me).
Everyone starts out with the table top 10" toy saw. That's a given and also forgiven. You want real results you buy into a quality 12" cabinet saw. I personally don't have the space for one in my own shop but wish I did. They are much more accurate and reliable. Yes they cost more but if you're a seasoned woodworker you know this is the best investment in your business/hobby you can make. It will give you decades of service and will be a value even when sold every time.
I have a 12" 3hp sliding table saw... 35 years and going strong.
I run 10" blades.. never found a need for 12".
Many thanks for another super survey of the field; in this case table saws. Having used all of the types of saws you mentioned in my 55 years of woodworking, I can attest that everything you said was right on the money. My first table saw, for my basement cabinetmaking shop, was a 1960's vintage Craftsman contractor's saw, with a cast iron table, flimsy stamped steel extension wings and (as you warned) a very poor fence. The fence had to be manually adjusted, front and back, to be sure it was parallel to the blade--and then one had to verify that the width of the cut was still correct. Often this was a circular procedure. All that was corrected when I purchased a Biesemeyer after-market fence. I still have that fence and use it on my Delta Unisaw--40 years after I gave my Craftsman table saw to charity. Yet, as you also said, the contractor's saw is not a bad machine. The the organization I gave it to used it to do all the carpentry required to build a complete house.
HI, James. I really love your videos and the things you've built and designed. Regarding this video though, I have a question. Is the Sawstop professional a hybrid, or Cabinet table saw?
In other words. Do the trunnions and motor mount to an internal framework, Or do they hang from the under side of the top itself?
Thanks, and keep building more Awesome projects.
Doug
SS Pro is a full-on Cabinet saw. SS Industrial is also a cabinet saw, just beefier. Notably the Trunions are stout enough to handle the demands of the optional 7.5 HP motor, and the table is larger, thicker and heavier to withstand the greater forces involved.
I was a flooring/remodeling contractor for many yrs- i have an old delta plastic/aluminum saw exactly like you were speaking of LOL BUT it weighs like 30lbs toss it in my truck & GO! did a ton of hardwood floors with it never lacked for power just keep a sharp blade
Can you do a video for drill presses? Its hard to sift through all the trash products and your experience would be helpful
I went through the same. If you have a Northern Tool near you their drill presses are great and affordable.
As a 70 year old still working carpenter, you mentioning the Rockwell contractor saw. My back problems probably originated lugging that saw around. My choice for portable saws without a roll around cart is Dewalt. With a cart Saw Stop is by far my favorite.
I started woodworking about 2 years ago, with musucal instruments - guitars, drums - as the focus. I bought the small Bosch portable table saw. It drove me crazy. Last summer I found a used Ridgid contractor saw. This older model has cast iron wings. It also has a built-in wheel-lift system, which is essential for me because I use it, along with my planer and jointer, in a single car garage, requiring me to move power tools around. The contractor saw is a dream in comparison to the portable saw, even though I have yet to upgrade the fence. I did retrofit a dust collection chamber beneeth the saw, which capture perhaps 60% of the dust.
So Stumpy's advice is right on.
111,111 views. I'm glad i was able to witness that satisfying occurrence
Brandon Peterson and 11 thumbs up. I can’t change that!
I almost didn't like this... Because it had 11 & I was 12th
As usual great advice. I bought a used craftsman saw(with a supposed 3hp motor) six years ago with a biesemeyer fence with two rockler tables one with a Rockler router table. I spent $200 which is mind blowing for this saw and accessories. I have made a lot of money off this saw. I just bought and am waiting for the Grizzly Shop Fox w1888. It is a hybrid saw 2 amp and $1500. I am glad you think these saws are a good idea.
Alert: Dewalt contractor saw arbor will not accept anything other than a minimal thickness dado stack. Ask me how I know. 😢
I didn't know DeWalt made a contractor saw. I've seen DeWalts jobsite saws, and they're great. Summit stumpy kinda skipped a level of new contractor saws
I decided on a used contractor saw, A Rockwell 9" with a Dayton 1.5hp motor that can be wired for either 115 or 230v. It has a decent looking beefy fence and what looks like an oversize miter gauge and has cast iron extensions on it I got for $250. I intend to do a full restore on it, cleaning, repainting, replacing bearings &c. I'm just an occasional DIYer so I'm sure it's more saw than I'll ever need. Thanks for helping me decide. :)
Thanks James. I have seen some guys build their benchtop saw into their bench for very small shops. The bench creates additional table space and outfeed. One guy even made a fence running off the edge of the bench. Doing that with something like the Bosch or Sawstop version may be a very good option for a wood shop in a garage.
I built our entire set of kitchen cabinets, both lower and upper (about 45 feet of each including island), out of cherry veneered 3/4 inch plywood (cherry face frames) using a job site contractor saw about 20 years ago. It worked out fine but I spent an incredible amount of time adjusting and checking the fence each and every time. Now we are remodeling our first home (kept it after we moved and rented it out for 15 years) and I plan to pick up a hybrid saw but want one at 120 volts since I don't need a 3 hp motor with the type of woodworking I do as a hobby. This is a great video and I am leaning toward a Grizzly brand since their hybrids at the 1200 buck range have very substantial fence system that uses tube steel and not aluminum. If I had ready 220 volts in this older home I would go up a bit but I think 2 hp will work and I want the money on the fence for precision more than anything else. For this house, doing entire kitchen with my son to include upper, lowers, and built in bookshelves for an entire room that will become my new office. I can't wait to get started when the weather improves here.
I mentioned this in another video, but I rented a Makita table saw from Home Depot recently, and the fence still had some play in it. This was my very first time using a table saw so I didn't know better. I was definitely making some rookie mistakes when I first used it, but after I watched your video about how critical fence calibration - making it exactly parallel to the blade - is, I think the fact that it kicked back a piece of wood into my garage door was caused in part by this crappy fence. After watching your video I measured the fence distance from the blade at 2 or 3 points and it was off by as much as a 1/4" from near to far end. I returned the saw today and Home Depot gave me 25% off the rental because of this and they said the fence was full of dust and needed to be inspected. So - two other questions: 1. How much play/wobble should there be in a fence once it is calibrated? 2. What are some good aftermarket fences to buy? (Links may be below for that.)
I’m getting more serious about woodworking. So much so that I am tearing down my shed to build a work shop. Because my shop won’t be large I looked at portable saws but don’t want an aluminum table. So I have my sights set on a Delta 36-725 “hybrid” saw. I did my research and this looks like the best saw for the $. It has a cast iron table and the fence is really decent.
Thanks for all your videos and I look forward to all your future ones.
I know this is some time after this comment but I am looking as the same saw. The only thing that has me not running to the store is all the reviews I’ve seen is the motor goes rather quick. I also know someone who has this exact saw and had the same issue. But if you get it and it works out you got a good one!!
@@charliemorrow1654 there is a newer version of that saw (36-725 T2). The motor is bigger (and the fence has a "mini" fence that flips over for thin material). I'll keep you posted.
Nice Video. I was recently in the market for a table saw when my grandfather heard about it and offered me his old contractor saw from what I would assume is the 60's or 70's. After seeing the belt drive and the hanging motor for the first time, I half expected it to break in the first week. Instead, it's one of the best presents and one of the most useful tools I have ever been fortunate enough to receive. After the experience, I completely agree with your advice. And I'm going to follow your advice on finding a new fence, Thank you
Great advice James, I used a old Sears 1.5hp table saw for years and built a truck load of quality stuff with it. Sold it and got a used
Grizzly 10" 3 HP 240V Cabinet RIGHT-Tilting Table Saw, now this thing is smooth! Wish I would have up graded long before I did. Thanks for posting.
I have a Craftsman 3 HP Contractors saw that came with cast iron top and wings. It also has a Craftsman Exact-i-rip 72" wide fence system which I believe is on par with a Biesemeyer. I tuned it and run high quality blades. It is pretty much vibration free especially with the addition of a link belt. Unbelievable smooth cuts. I bought this used in 2001 for $300 in California where everything is overpriced and have done a lot of cabinetry and ships carpenter type work with it for the past 18 years running a lot of walnut, maple, mahogany and teak with no trouble at all. I also love the Craftsman tilt head band saw. Large table and it is much easier to run angle cuts on a flat table with the blade angled than the other way around. I is like a miniature shipwrights saw. i think it is the best small band saw around and you can pick them up for about $75.
I have a12” craftsman from 1973 that I got when it was new it has 2 hrs motor on it ! With a Vega fence system! You are right it does the job for me!!!🤗 Thanks Jim for sharing! Good words to think about!
Fantastic!! Never even heard of Hybrid saws. I have a custom elevator cab business and seldom cut anything thicker than 3/4". I use a SawTrax panel saw for ripping and crosscutting my panels. I have a portable RIGID table saw that has served me well, but yes, its loud, and the bearings are starting to go. Always believed a good saw with a great blade can get me what I need. Thanks for this video!!
My old Ridgid TS3612 table saw has been doing everything I need since 2002. Does great, rewired the motor for 220V use, it rips through 2" thick oak just fine. The saw itself is quite sturdy and came with a mobile base which is useless to me as unfortunately my shop has a dirt floor. The fence is very accurate and very smooth thanks to nice plastic glides in the front and rear of the fence, it locks down very solid and with a zero clearance insert and a good blade it cuts very nice too.
If I were making a lot of projects I'd certainly love a cabinet style saw with large extensions but the TS3612 does fine for everything I've needed it for.
I almost dropped 3 grand on a sawstop professional. But after a LOT of research, I ended up buying (believe it or not) a skilsaw SPT99-12 for $500. This thing is a beast, & portable for my garage workshop. Love the rack & pinion fence. It may not be for a professional in a dedicated shop, but I’m surprised you over looked this class of saw based based on your topic.
I went from one of those crappy Ryobi saws you showed to a Delta 36-725. Very happy with it so far.
I have more than 40 years experience as a professional cabinet maker.
This is a good, concise review of table saw choices.
I would add just one point. That is, which way does the blade tilt when at miter?
Many saws (most Rockwells) tilt toward the fence. This means that miter cuts of wide stock must be made face down.
Having the blade tilt away from the fence is a feature I consider important.
Most saws these days tilt to the left, away from the fence.
I picked up an old Rockwell 34-450 that was missing the fence system as well as the all important splitter / anti kick back assembly. I replaced the spindle bearings, new switch and an excellent fence system. Sadly I cannot find the removable splitter anywhere.. It does have the long warp around blade guards so I should be happy. Runs like a charm and accurate as he devil 😈.
At the end of 2017 I upgraded from my craftsman bench top table saw (crap) to a Shop Fox 1837 Hybrid. Fantastic investment! It is everything I will ever need in a table saw in my garage. There is not cut I will need to do that it cannot do safely and accurately. The only downside is the stamped steel wings, but as long as they are level with the top, what do they really need to do but be there? Excellent video, Jimmy.
Got a used Sear's Craftsman Contractor Saw, with cast iron top and wings for $125, at a farm auction last year. Top had some surface rust and slight amount of pitting. WD-40 and 1500 wet/dry sand paper, took all the surface rust off in a few minutes. Going through the rest of it now.
I started with a Jet Contractor saw, upgraded to a Powermatic 66, and eventually to a Minimax CU350 combination machine with an 8.5' sliding table. Much improved dust collection over the cabinet saw and the ability to make beautiful square cuts for any panel. No more crosscut sleds when you have a slider. The total footprint of the machine was actually less that the machines it was replacing (jointer, planer, tablesaw). That was 18 years ago and I haven't been tempted to upgrade to something better, because there really isn't anything better.
My first table saw was a circular saw upside down on some plywood. Used it for 16 years. Next Rryobi basic with a stand (used) 9 years. Now (at 55) I have the largest Ridged table saw and I love it.
Even with my first set up I could still make 3.5 millimeter strips for tressel bridges for my train set
Been struggling with this exact question - shop size and the (in)ability to move a big cabinet or hybrid around is the issue. Hadn’t pulled back to the DeWalt portable (nice fence) quite yet ... and then saw your show on track saw set ups for the full sheets. Thought yesterday “ah ha, that’s the mix” -- and now I need a hybrid again. So indecisive.... siiiggghh
You are the best, as a novice who is getting better and better it has a lot to do with your info.
I have a small garage (no room to even set up my tools *in* the garage) so picked up a Bosch Reaxx jobsite saw when they were still available because I liked the features compared to the Sawstop (particularly the "it doesn't destroy your blade" and "easy to reset/replace cartridge" that costs half as much). That said, we all knowhow the court cases went there so I'm stuck with a pretty rare tool that thankfully I can still buy replacement cartridges for (I've set it off a couple times when forgetting to disable the sensor while cutting aluminum). It's definitely not as powerful as I'd like, but it's what I have room for and the extra safety is always a good thing.
Your advice regarding holding off and saving up a bit more for a better saw, is great advice for those that have the time.
Unless what is going to be cut are hardwoods, I would advise people to go for it, if they are short on time as well.
Using one will be more finicky, granted. But what could one expect from a cheap set.
Buy the most expensive one you can afford. If they are really cheap, like $50, then just be aware that you will most likely have to fidget around with them longer prior to each cut job. Possibly even more frequently. And dare not dream cutting hardwoods. Unless you have a heap of spare drivebelts on reserve.
I have a Delta hybrid saw that I bought six years ago and I love this thing. It cuts straight and it has the option for a 54" table which I bought with mine. The down side is with the insurance which mine is good for two more years I'm out 1,600 bucks on it but I don't regret one red cent I paid for that saw.
Good video and good advice. I bought a Jet hybrid saw six years ago and haven't been sorry for one day since. Lots of board feet pushed through, just a little slower than a big saw.
My 70’s or 80’s Craftsman 113 has a 3 hp motor and cast iron top with stamped steel wings. I added a 50” Vega fence and built a cabinet with locking casters. It performs almost as well as the Powermatic cabinet saw used in my Dad’s shop.
I have a craftsman 113 as well however even though they say it's 3hp all the craftsmans test between 1-1.5hp. Regardless, it does almost everything I ask of it except for terrible dust collection options.
I think it's important to distinguish between fine wood working and framing/trim work in this discussion. I agree with Stumpy on the table saws when used in a shop, I have lived with good contractor saw most of my life and only now am getting a cabinet saw mainly because I wanted a made in Canada saw. As I am getting older and have been helping friends and family with renovations that I have purchased table saws (like the Bosch) and small sliding mitre saws because of their mobility (weight).
After 25 years, I finally had to retire my Ridgid contractor table saw. It served me well, but lived in an outdoor shop in the Everglades and the blade height adjustment just locked up. I hated to give up the cast iron top, I'd even added a cast iron router table wing, but I just couldn't free up the mechanism.
I got a DeWalt 7491RS job site saw for less than $500 US that seems pretty good so far. Nice fence and better sawdust handling. It also freed up a ton of space in the shop.
We use a cabinet saw made by saw stop at my job, but for my own saw to get started I will purchase a track saw and a slider miter saw. But your information was good too.
I recently purchased a shop fox 1820 . 12.8 amp/3hp/220v motor. This is supposed to be a great cabinet saw. I am debating on returning it . Cabinet motor door is out of alignment by half an inch for the screw knob that keeps the door closed. It is also cross threaded. The knob will thread from the inside up until it reaches the first few outside threads. This is easily taken care of with my tap set. But when I installed the cast iron wings, I found that they would not flush up to the table in the center. Thought it was the wings, further investigation revealed the center table is warped. checked it with my machinist strait edges. and Levels corner ti corner. Your video was excellent , Although I had done a lot of research, I still wound up with a really crappie saw . Hopefully the company will correct and back their product when I speak to them Monday morning.
I bought a used Delta contractor saw mainly because it already had an Incra TS-LS fence installed. That fence alone would have justified the $800 I paid for the whole thing. That is the only fence that I know of that you can set for a specific sized cut and know it will be accurate. Color me a happy camper.
Great advice on the pros and cons of each level of saw. Invaluable as I look to progress past a portable saw. Thanks
I own a big delta and I love it. I have had it over five years and the fence on it is actually dead on accurate. I always double check it but have yet to need to adjust it
Hard to beat a Delta.
In fact I’m getting ready to make it even more versatile by putting my router into the open space between the rails on the right side the way that Izzy Swan has his table saw set up. I love the idea of saving floor space and making it easier to use since in my shop I often use those two tools back to back.
What a helpful and calmly delivered video. Thank you.
Thanks for this. I'm a retired contractor making do with my portable DeWalt saw at the moment. Like you say, the fence is crap, but with care you can make do. Now I've got time on my hands I'm looking to buy better workshop tools, without spending a fortune. To be honest I don't think I've really got it in me to be a real pro cabinet maker, but I know I'd benefit from a better saw. I'm glad you endorsed some of the older, used machines, which is what I'm looking for. I've already found a nice bandsaw and jointer/thicknesser, both for under £300, and they are transforming my work. Just got to be patient now and wait for the right machine to turn up.
I find your workshop mouth-watering. Do you mind me asking what it would cost (God forbid) to replace all those tools? I'm guessing the top end of six figures.
Users generally rave about how great the fence is on the Dewalt.
Space is at a premium in my garage, so I opted for a Dewalt DW745 (Type 4) and built a table for it with a router extension. I woul have liked to have the Bosch 10 XC, but it was nearly twice the price of the Dewalt, and I couldn't justify the expence at the time.
The saw had some issues with the motor when I bought it (heavy vibration and signs of overheating even at light to moderate load), but after a repair, it works nicely. With a little patience, it will happily chew through 3" of glued up pieces of formwork plywood.
I made the 1 5/8" tabletop (about 2 3/4'x4 1/4') for my workbench from glued up scrap pieces of formwork plywood that I removed the hard surface from, with the saw. I think it was about 150 yards of cuts through 13/16" plywood to make all the strips, and the saw did it without complaints. :)
I rarely need more than the 24" capacity, and when I do, I use my circular saw (Bosch GKS 18V-Li) and tracks.
I have a Ryobe contractor saw. it does the job, but you when setting up a cut you need to use a framing square to check for even distance at the start of the blade and the end of the blade. Once I started checking this, I have not had a problem. This being said I would love to one day have a larger more powerful saw.
I am new to woodworking but not to power equipment as a retired ASE Master Tech. I lost one eye in an accident and so my depth perception is weak, at best. Since I can afford it, my handicap makes the Saw Stop 3 hp single phase cabinet saw the best fit for me. I know many say it isn’t worth the extra money, but it is for me!
I have the Hitachi job site C10RJ and I love. It's actually big for a job site saw. I use it a lot. The fence is great. This has a bigger rip capacity then my old cast iron contractors saw. I not at all saying this is the best saw, all I'm saying is I love it. Top 10 of the best things I purchased for $250. Hasn't let me down yet...I LOVE this channel.
Hey John, glad you brought this up, and I am glad to hear that you love it, because I just bought that saw. Have you had to do any special alignment on either of the table or the fence or anything else since you got it?
@@bobbycarmichael2562 Hi Bobby. I did make a slight adjustment to the back end of the fence. I'm a machinist by trade so a couple of thousands is like a mile to me. I'm sure I could have left it alone. The blade and the miter slot are dead on.
I purchased a Laguna Fusion F2 I love it. It replaced a Kolbolt portable. My very first saw was a Craftsman contracters saw which was steel.
My Powermatic contractor saw is 20 years old now. It’s heavy. It’s fence is great. I am about to start a major tear down/tune up.
So I highly recommend it as a used saw. New ones are $1600😳
I started with a cheap circular saw, mounted upside down in a 1" MDF homemade table.
But since I bought my e-bay Xcalibur, there's nothing like a good cabinet saw.
Mine needed a little work to get it running, a new Polygroove belt and some decent trend Blades and it cuts beautifully.