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I once heard the suggestion that you buy the cheapest tools you can get when you're starting out. If you break it or wear it out then you move up to better quality because it's probably a tool you use a lot. If it doesn't wear out then you probably don't use it that much and you didn't waste more money than you had to.
It is a very good advice. The only catch is that sometimes, you spend so much time trying to master a cheap tool to realize, it is just not accurate enough, whatever you do. That's what happened with me with a big table saw; I've took on the challenge to master it for 3 years, and was able to do nice stuff. Then I got the 735 Dewalt Jobsite Table Saw to realize I spent 3 years loosing my time to a saw that was never going to provide the results I thought could be achieved
Seen a lot of Ryobi hate - but I can thoroughly recommend their impact driver. I bought it when I had very little money because I needed it for a job. Used it heavily, daily, for a year, dropping it off of multiple first and second story roofs. 2.5 years later still probably the most used tool in my house. One battery charge lasts over 2 months with general house hold use - truly couldn’t be happier with it.
I've been woodworking since I was an early teenager. I'm on the leading edge of 73 now. I've built houses, garages, barns, sheds, furniture and cabinetry with the odd canoe, sailboat, rowboat and dory thrown in for variety. My grandfather taught me the basics of carpentry and cabinetmaking using hand tools only. Over the years, I began to use power tools and learned to adjust and maintain them to get the best results while speeding up productivity. A lot of my workshop power tools are old time Craftsman (Contractor Table Saw with expanded table and modified fence, old school cast iron jointer, etc.) These have been enhanced by using my abilities with milling machines and lathes to either alter or remanufacture parts. (The problems that some people have had using dado stacks with some Craftsman table saws was actually a pretty easy fix.) I have added a Dewalt 735 and love it. I do have a DeWalt miter saw that I have "tuned" and still use it for doing non-repetitive cuts. Repetitive cuts are done with a table saw and sled. A lot of mistakes are made by the woodworker and blamed on their tools. Taking the time to do things correctly is critical to good results. Take the time to plan, measure and set up before putting tool to wood. Power tools are great and save a lot of tedious, fatiguing effort, but can ruin a project if not applied properly. Take the time - you'll be glad you did.
The Skil brand was baught by chevron and their new model had excellent quality as far as anyone can say. Rack and pinion fence that locks on front and back, integrated stand, and a steal of a price. You probably should look into it, no need to trash them anymore.
Agree on this one. They apparently made some upgrades within the last year as well. Better quality, more cut capacity, and a taller stand. It can take a dado blade and it's just a solid saw.
Well, refreshing to hear someone actually give good advice on TH-cam. I made my first cabinet for a client in 1979. I grew up nailing things together with my dad on a ranch. He had absolutely no idea what he was doing but we built stuff anyway. After that I went to work and became a carpenter. Then one day an elderly lady asked me to build a vanity for her and I did. Guess what, I didn’t even have a table saw. I owned a jigsaw, a drill and a 6 1/2” Skillsaw. I drilled a couple of holes in my saw, built a table and bolted that sucker to the bottom and built that cabinet. I built a bunch more like that until I got a used craftsman table saw. I had to clamp a board down for a fence but I did it. Yes it took longer but the cabinets I made really looked good and people keep asking me to build for them. Long story but I ran a professional cabinet shop for years and studied furniture making at a place called The Primrose Center in Missoula MT. I still build cabinets and furniture and have learned leather working for variety. I still laugh at that kid making cabinets with a homemade table saw. Try to buy decent stuff but don’t get hung up over tools. You can make a lot of nice stuff with what you have!
You said it yourself... "yes it took longer" If you value your time, buy decent-to-good tools. If you don't value your time, buy dog shit or jerry rig stuff that no longer serves its original purpose. It's literally that simple. I don't have enough space on this forum to go in to it, but you're taking advice from a guy who has a shop full of the more expensive tools, and that's not a coincidence. If you're broke AF and need a chance, do what you have to do to level up. I would never begrudge a man for that. Every apprentice carpenter on a job should devote *at least* 10% of his weekly paycheck to tools. If you can't afford a good set of tools after a couple months, your boss is underpaying you.
@@fakepseudonym669 Except the comment that the first tool to buy would be a miter saw, (see my comment on that) I found the rest that he had to say very right on the point. I hope that you are not still assembling your cabinetry with nails.
My GF bought me the combo pack of Ryobi with that gawdly huge plastic carry case they first came out with, back in the late 90s. Used them for everything as a storm chaser for over 20 yrs. Still using them today as I build a custom casting deck for my canoe now that I can enjoy retirement. The only thing I've had to do is buy batteries. I'd highly recommend them whether new or old to construction work.
100% agree with you. I've been steadily buying Festool in the 10 years since I went pro as a furniture maker, and they're awesome. But I have an old, blue Ryobi impact driver that just will not die. I dropped it 20 feet onto a concrete floor not once, but twice, and apart from the bits falling out of the holder, it didn't even seem to notice. Replaced the batteries with the LiOn ones and they've also been going strong for 5 years or more. Just a great tool for a ridiculously cheap price.
I’ve been watching woodworking videos on TH-cam for at least 3 years now and never came across this channel for some odd reason. Stumbled upon the dust collection video yesterday and have been catching up on his videos since then. Either this guy is really underrated or the algorithms somehow thought I wouldn’t like his content but man this is refreshing, no bullshit, perfect amount of humour woodworking! Keep it up!
I just watched 3hours of your stuff. Good stuff young man. I started at 17yrs. Old. I tell the story five 5 year Jobs over 30 yrs. . All in one; two; three; four man shops. I'm 63 and just now setting my own low budget shop in Idaho. I will revisit your channel
I’m a GC and we also do a lot of trim and finish carpentry for clients. We use a combo of the dewalt table saw and a Festool track saw. The dewalt table saw has ripped miles of lumber and it impresses every time it just keeps going.
I screwed a sheet of plywood to the top and made supports and I would use a a straight edge to make a fence and I built custom cabinets onsite for several clients onsite. I love my dewalt table saw. I had another one for years before this one but I had to give it to a buddy when I moved away and didn't have room to bring it. Great saws for onsite work
My first major tool purchase for my shop, when I was 17 years old , was a used Delta Professional cabinet makers table saw from probably the forties or fifties. It was eighty dollars with a new blade worth more than the cost of the saw. One of the features of this saw was that for miter cuts the blade remained fixed and the whole table tilted for the angle cut. At first I thought it was strange, however I discovered that the board being cut was pressed against the fence with gravity ,making for a beautiful cut every time. Eventually I thought it was time to upgrade to a newer saw with all the bells and whistles even though the saw never failed I gave the old Delta to my son. Boy I wish I had that old saw back, fifty three years later, but I'm sure he is enjoying it. The point is , like you, we don't need more than what works for you. And you don't always get good results from a fancy name brand tool. I'm still looking for good used tools with quality and safety in mind. Don't focus on name brands because of the name but quality you can usually spot, but you may never know until you use it ,some times we get burned . Very nice video.
100% agree with 95% these recommendations! I used small and old table saws with plenty of success, but by when I upgraded to the Delta you flashed on the screen my life got way better.
I have watched a lot of these "beginner" videos throughout the years. This is the first one that really hits the nail on the head for me! Quite precise about price ranges and expectations
I've been using my Ryobi job site table saw for 12 years now. It has a wide stance integrated fold-up stand, 31" right rip and will easily handle up to 7/8" dado. I've no complaints.
What’s interesting is the reviews for Ryobi table saws are pretty negative. Not exactly sure why but it’s steering me away from them. That said I have a Ryobi miter saw and I really like it.
I have the Ryobi cordless tool set and they are tough!! I built my off grid tiny house with this set years ago. I use them nearly every day since and they are still holding up well. They wont break the bank and they nearly last forever. I did wear out the circular saw bearing though and had to replace that but I had used it heavily. Everything else is still running well.
I love my Ryobi cordless Lithium Ion tools, but weedwacker and the sanders are frustrating to use on battery even if you have a bunch of batteries, but the Newer green 18+ batteries run longer with a more consistent power delivery than older battery tech did (obviously). I was given a huge box literally like 50-60 (used, but free), of the new style batteries so my tolerance for using batteries on those two tools has gone up greatly. Only half or so charge, but I have so many that I haven't taken the time to see if they have a bad cell or just low charge tripping the protection circuit. They are great, I still have some of the old Nickel battery tools and they're still going just got warn out brushes.
@@Lincolnstww Yeah it's awesome I'll just pop one of the 4Ah batteries in there then bring one or two out with me and it works out fine and if not I have a dozen more waiting on the sideline LOL. The other nice thing about these is the power usage profile with the NiMH batteries the tools (especially weed wackers) would noticeably start being weaker within a few minutes and just slowly die off VERY annoying! The lithium batteries start to show power drops closer to being dead then they drop off quick way nicer IMO. They got a lot of different batteries checking mine I have my original two LI+ION batteries from them (P104 dual layer) are 48Wh and my "new" (P108 dual layer) is 72Wh not bad. The others are single thickness but pretty good P102 24Wh, P107 28Wh, P190 36Wh crazy seeing battery evolution.
From my personal experience Ryobi is the brand to go for beginners. The battery ecosystem is fantastic, included features are crazy good for the price, availability and variety of tools and accessories is never a problem, and most importantly, budget. I've had my drill, impact driver, screwdriver, miter saw, jigsaw, trim router and both orbital and finishing sanders for close to 3 years and they've never failed me.
Ryobi is also good for pros on job site stuff. Tools in the primary colors or dark teal tend to walk off on their own, but highlighter green tools tend to stay where they are xD
I haven ran Ryobi from the blue days have 12 of the Lion batteries now for my daily used pro tools I have mostly brushless but those once a year tools I get the cheaper bushed. have over 20 tools drills drivers sanders saws lawn trimer polesaw 4 gallon vac love this for fast car clean up and pellet stove.
It's really easy to put a ryobi battery into a ryobi tool. Other brands with rail-style interfaces I've found it easy to miss one side while not paying enough attention.
I started woodworking in the 7th grade and continued through high school. I make, doors, cabinets, and anything else. Here is part if my list. Chop saw is a Festool, table saw is an Ulmia with sliding table, jointer is a Yates American, stroke sander is an Oliver, bandsaw is a Yates American y-30, vertical belt sander is a Powermatic, mortiser is a Piwermatic foot operated, I also use a Festool Domino 700.planer is a SCMI 9hp. Plus a bunch more in my home shop.
With what you turn out on that Dewalt I can only imagine how much more amazing your work will be when you put a sawstop next to that new festool domino. :-)
You make a lot of great points in this video! I have always hated the "buy once, cry once" mentality. I have always operated on "buy the best you can reasonably afford" and if you end up using the tool a lot, save up for a better version in the future.
I subscribe to this thought process except I borrow from friends first. And if I find I'm borrowing it more than a couple times, I buy my own and know if I want a more expensive one.
I agree, I have been in the WWing business since '79, purchase the best tools you can afford, garbage tools make your job harder. The better the tool the more enjoyable the work. I do not agree on the miter saw comment of the vid poster, every shop is different on what you build, in my shop, cabinet saw, miter saw and cyclone are used daily...
3:28 - ouch! Didn't think Ryobi were bottom of the barrel..? Between my brother and I, we''ve got heaps of their tools and never had a problem in all the wood and mechanical stuff we get up to..
I love my Ryobi cordless drill and driver. I bought them as a combo pack 17 years ago. Since then they have built 2 homes and are still constantly being used. I bought some larger batteries for them a few years ago to get a longer run-time but the originals still hold charge well.
I have a few of the old blue Ryobi stuff and they are still solid - except my random orbit needs a new velcro pad but they are unavailable from Ryobi because "this model has been discontinued" which it shitty of them but I can probably find one that's compatible.
1:25 I've been doing w working for over 30 years. just bought a miter saw this year. love it. 1:59 started using Ryobi in 2004, my drill still works. 41 tools later.... 3:33 my craftsmen jobsite 10" from 2004 still works great in my massive table. 5:00 my H freight orbital one still works after 8 years, I prefer my 2 Ryobi cordless sanders; brushless belt and orbital. 6:31 still havent got a planer but shopping for a 3 blade or spiral.
thank you, because of you i went with Makita. Best power tools out there. there range is huge, now i have tools for woodworking, taking care of my landscape, fans, radios, lamps, coffee maker, etc... so much awesome stuff and all on the same battery platform. im so happy i don't have carry a zillion different brands, i now have one brand of batteries that work on everything i own.
When looking at tables saws, here’s what i ran into. I first picked up a skil. the miter slot was a nonstandard t shape, not 3/4” slot and i could not upgrade the miter gauge. I think that went back to the store after one cut. I replaced it with a Dewalt saw similar to what is shown here, but it did not support dado blade stacks. I got by with it for quite a while, but occasionally was frustrated by the small rip width, lack of dado blade, and underpowered when ripping long boards. All that to say, bigger is better on a table saw, and now I have a small cabinet saw from Grizzly, which is way more fun to use. Think about the features you need before buying... rip width, safety, power, table size, mobility, miter track size, dado blades etc.
Bigger is better, but most people don’t have the money and plenty don’t have the space. The current Dewalt though can do up to 82.5 cm width, has a 2kW motor, uses standard slots and the arbor is long enough for those who want to use a dado blade.
Maybe the deWalt is much better than my Makita. I have a Sedgwick saw in my workshop, but I bought a much cheaper site saw for my home. It is so inferior and less safe. The plastic guard was smashed when a cut off jammed in the insert slot. It is noisy and the mitre fence is loose in the slot. Although it does seem to crosscut square. Without dust extraction the rise and fall needs regular attention. Perhaps a beginner should have a mitre saw for cross cutting and a track saw system for ripping. Both might still be useful after upgrading to a table saw. I also recommend a cheap edge sander till you can afford a better one. The whole thing depends on how much disposable income you have.
@@ian1352 Yep. This. I have the DW745. LOVE it, but it does not accept Dado's as the arbor is just long enough for a single blade. The newer model has included a longer arbor for Dado's and slightly faster blade speed. Motor is exactly the same.
I've been looking at which table saw best suits my needs, and I keep coming back to the Dewalt because it's fence and rail system is better than a lot of other more expensive table saws. Thanks for your insights sir.
I own 3 - 10” table saws. A 3 hp jet cabinet saw. A 1.5 hp jet contractor saw. And a dewalt 10” portable table saw. I use the dewalt saw a lot. It doesn’t have the power of the other 2 and I use it mostly for plywood and soft woods. But I have say, it’s a great saw for the $. And the dust collection is pretty good. I take it to rentals and use it in the garage. When shopping for a saw, make sure it has a good fence. Make sure it’s straight to the blade and SOLID. It should not deflect, unless really pushed on hard.
Bro your channel rocks. Your TH-cam short of falling down the hill to fetch a pallet sold me. I am a hobbyist woodworker with very little skill and very little money. I'm drawn to this craft because of its therapeutic qualities. I literally disappear into my own little world when I'm measuring and cutting. I would encourage anyone who is on the fence about woodworking or an experienced tradesman to subscribe to this man's channel. Let's support the craft one dowel at a time
Love the humour. I'm new to DIY and newer to woodworking. Currently own a drill, driver, and circular saw. I was at a loss over what to buy next. This was very helpful. Thanks man!
1) don't underpower your equipment, make sure you are on a 20 amp to get all the power and not burn out your motors. 1B) (because I am lazy for editing): make sure your motors get fully up to speed before you start cutting, you want the blades to be doing the work and you want to keep the RPMs up. If you slow down the blade the blade will start to wobble and it will throw off your cut. That's how you'll get Burns and scoring in cuts. You can go slow with a miter cut and virtually get no blowout. 2) the orbit (1/8, 1/16, 1/32, and 1/64) are what you need to focus on, get a minimum 1/32 it is good for taking down a surface and decent at a finish... 1/64 is a finish sander and not for taking off volume... Get an adjustable speed and you can slow down the speed (you need to slow down to) with a 1/32 and get a better sand without swirls. (wipe with water or denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner to raise the grain before doing this for a better result) bostch has a good one that is competitively priced. A low orbit sander and cheap sandpaper will leave hook marks and swirls. Also, just like the saws, let the sander do the work. 3) The DeWalt planer and table saw are highly recommend by myself as I have used them professionally for over a decade. They last and do very good job and stay true, and have enough power to be safe... 4) pay attention to professionals and reviews for saws if you're going to get your radial arm, or the more expensive compound miter saws. Some saws that make a great miter box do not make good radial alarm saws as they will not cut square on longer cuts. I have a Delta chop saw that is older than dirt that still works, though it's only a 10 inch. Dewalts make fine 12-in chop saws if you need a little bit more space. I have a Makita compound sliding miter saw for any of my detail work as it's the only one I found to cut square and straight and have all the angles that I need of all saws on the market until you get to the truly expensive stuff (through they no longer make a 12" version of the sliding compound miter saw). 5) DeWalt miter boxes have a lot of power, however the color that holds the motor to the blade is cast aluminum, so if you're too rough with it you can actually bend that and throw it out a square. So don't slam your tool into wood to cut or drop or strike the housing too much as it will ruin your saw. Over 20 years of high end cabinet work and furniture restoration experience.
I definitely need to differ about the skil table saw. I purchased, own, and use a Skil TS6307. It’s a fantastic little saw for 300 bucks. Was square to the fence right off the box, and the fence even all the way through, and easy to adjust. My biggest gripe is the miter gauge is junk, but they all are at this price point.
@@tomsardo6984 Earlier this year, I bought a Craftsman table saw from Lowe's. The problem with it was the fence only extended to 12". So practically useless for sheet stock. After struggling to make it work, or watching it sit out of projects entirely because the saw just couldn't do it, I sold it and bought a DeWalt, with a 32" rip capacity. If my Lowe's store carried that Skil table saw, with its 24" fence, I probably would have bought it, and kept it. There have been a few things I've used the additional capacity of the DeWalt for, but I could work around the Skil.
@@thegardenofeatin5965 if you buy a saw, ANY saw just for the miter gauge, then you’re bound to be sorely disappointed… rather it’s the 300 dollar skil, or 3k Powermatic. Just how the game is played.
I started with a factory rebuilt ShopSmith with a 4 inch jointer. It was a great all around work horse. Solid cast iron bed and fence. Held settings very well. Table saw function wasn't great, but by building a plywood fence box that fit over stock fence, accuracy was improved to within 1/64. Plus the fence had a outfield support, just 4x6 inches. Perfect for most needs. Down fall of the shopsmith as a table saw is depth of cut is controlled by height of table.
That Dewalt saw is a beast! Bought an older model on clearance when I was doing a reno for one of my girls - I like that it had an imperial and a metric scale for the rip fence (metric is great when you need to “take just a little off”). Made some flooring transitions out of red oak and needed to rip down 3/4 x 6” boards to 1/2”. Ripped on edge with blade at full height and the saw never even slowed down. Just a beast! And that fence is dead on accurate.
@@farrockawayboyz6881 I bought the Dewalt and love it. I couldn’t be happier. I took back the Ryobi , what a piece of junk. I could cut more accurately with a spoon
I recently came to the same conclusion that cordless sanders are not worth it due to dust collection hoses. Thanks for the thoughtful explanations and snarky wit. I look forward to your videos.
I went corded simply for price. It was $90 for corded vs. $180 for a battery-powered one. Not everything needs to be cordless and half the price always wins in my books.
I find the idea of a cordless sander to be silly. A sander is one of those tools that you run for extended periods of time. Not very battery friendly. And Jon makes the best point about being tethered to dust collection. A cordless sander is kind of like, wireless cable ties.
Came into this thinking you were going to be trolling, ended up going, "yup, that's true." To pretty much everything. Don't own a jointer or planar yet so got some good advice on top. Both of those are next on the list of purchases for my shop. Its funny how you learn what not to buy when you buy the crap. Learning from mistakes via experience is really one of the best teachers. Those pain lessons always seem to stick the longest. Great vid man.
As for job site tables saws the skil saw portable SPT99-11 with the stand is a very good option. It has wormdrive with a lot of power. the folding is easy and is very easy to move around with the big wheels. It’s fence is easy to square up with the blade. I think it has the widest table with its extension which is nice for ripping sheet goods. It is a lot better than the other skil table saws which I believe you are most likely familiar with.
DeWalt has a jobsite saw with a fence that extends to 32", the Skil goes out to 24". Which is plenty of room for a lot of projects, but that extra room on the DeWalt does open some doors.
@@thegardenofeatin5965 The model number I have and referenced in my post above has a fence that extends out further than 24”. Without looking it up if I remember right it’s 30” so not quite as far as the Dewalt.
Nice video, and good advice. I am fortunate and have been able to pickup good quality mitre and table saws as well as sanders and drill press. I do have the Dewalt 735 planer and I have a nice 6” jointer with a helical head. But I run into problems in that area on several projects, and rather than worrying about replacing my jointer or planer, I have made friends with my wood mill. He has an 8 inch long bed jointer and 24” planer, and for almost nothing he will run things threw for me. It would take me many, many years of projects to pay for either of these things for what it costs to use his. That and it is great to just hang out and talk wood and projects. Never underestimate what you can learn and money you can save by networking with other woodworkers. My experience has always been that they love to share their knowledge and often time to help other woodworkers out.
I just had to tell you, "and now I'm a Makita guy for life because I love blue and weed whackers" is probably both the funniest and most insightful description of cordless platform preference I've seen in the dozens of hours of YT videos I've watched on the subject!
The most surprising tool I've purchased was a Harbor Freight angle grinder. On sale for $7 (I think its typically $11 now) and I had no use for it at the time. But in the last couple of years I've used it from cutting stone to cutting metal fencing (hog wire) in addition to various grinding duties. With the right blade or abrasive wheel it easily did the job and working long after I would have assumed it to fail (again cheapo HF tool). I only minimally take good care of it, it just keeps going. I've been looking at upgrading, maybe a battery powered but really haven't found a case where I need to.
I had one but the switch failed after about 5 uses. If you ever get a good cordless grinder you'll wonder how you lived without it. I also have a corded makita grinder for the bigger jobs.
Good video on tools. I'll tell you what though, harbor freight Hercules brand had been standing the test of durability and precision for it's affordability. Always good to move up when needed though!
Agree completely. I have the Herc. mitre saw. it was accurate right out of the box with a decent blade and I’ve built two decks and a few pieces of furniture with it. Wait for the good sales at HF.
You are correct about the 8 inch jointer. If you build using solid wood, your first 2 operations should be flattening the face and jointing one edge. Next you need to go to the planer and flatten all your stock. Then you can go to the tablesaw to rip your stock. Finally go to the mitersaw (long bed support) for crosscutting. Buy an 8 inch long bed jointer. Your accuracy begins here. Can i do the same thing with handplanes, yes. But it takes 4 times longer. Buy a 15 inch industrial planer with a longer bed and great feed rollers. Can you get by with a lunchbox planer, yes but it will take twice as long and you can not plane wide panels. Buy a 10 or 12 inch tablesaw that has cast iron tables and is 27 inches deep. You can use smaller tablesaws but they are more dangerous. Your fingers matter. Buy a 12 inch miterbox, 10 inch is too small for a lot of stock. I will call bs on not buying a cordles sander. I bought the square base dewalt 2 years ago and was amazed. When i had to work on 2nd story windows on a 28 foot ladder i was glad i did not have a cord. I can run a long time on a 4 ah battery. Things i did right 43 years ago: Bought the 8 inch industrial jointer, 2 hp Bought the 15 1/2 inch industrial planer (They are both still running) Things i did wrong 43 years ago: Bought a smaller tablesaw trying to save money. Finally found a 1957 Delta unisaw that i bought from an 80 year old craftsman who was downsizing. What a difference that was. Bought a 10 inch miterbox. Too small. Bought a nice 12 inch delta when the motor burned up on the 10 inch. Could have saved 50 to 75 percent on my power tools if i had bought them at local auctions or from craftsman who were retiring. This takes time but there are bagains out there. I have bought $400 tablesaws for $40, $225 router for $50, $1500 planers for $200. Went to one auction where there were 5 of everthing. This guy had 5 tablesaws. 5 planers, 4 jointers, 5 lathes, and lots of other stuff. Bought one box lot that had 4 combination squares, marking guages, chisels, and planes that was worth over $200. I paid $15 because i wanted the brass backed dovetail saw i had seen i seen the box. Craigslist, estate sales. Auctions, and clearance bins at home depot can fill up your shop with great tools that will last a lifetime. You don't have to pay full price.
Love your videos because they are not biased and you always tell the truth about woodworking tools, techniques and materials, you had saved me a lot of time and money and I really appreciate it, wish you success !!
As to the mitre saw, I used a simple Dewalt for 6 years but my oh my is the Bosch 12in glide an amazing saw. For the kind of stuff I do it’s perfect. The most stable side to side motion and yet compact in depth because no tubes sticking out the back. I have not hit the point of the mitre saw being unimportant yet, for me it’s second only to my drills for important tools. It’s also much much much safer than the table or circular saws so the 12” blade plus compound takes a lot of cuts away from the other saws.
I have the cheapest Ryobi table saw available. Aligning the blade to the miter slot was a bit wonky, but I was able to get it done, and the fence has its quirks, but I find it works well enough for me. (For these points, very likely I just don't know what I'm missing, and maybe one of these days I'll upgrade to something better and actually realize it). The most glaring issues I've had with it are that the miter slot is a nonstandard size (and there's only one) and the table is tiny, with a puny rip capacity. I made a crosscut sled and DIY'd an extension wing/router table, both of which work...OK (good enough for me). But were I doing it again (and still trying to go cheap) I'd definitely opt for something that at least has 2 standard size miter slots and also try to DIY the rip fence (probably using John Heisz's design).
I have to say, one of the first tools I purchased was the dewalt jobsite table saw with folding stand. It is flawless, accurate and has given me 4 years of faithful service so far. It was an excellent purchase over time. I am precise with my tools, so if you are a rough worker, your results may vary.
Very well done. I owned a commercial woodworking shop but am now retired. I started as a hobby with an old Shopsmith that was given to me. Not recommended! My first table saw was a Delta unisaw. OK but not great. Next was a SawStop, a considerable step up. The An SCMI 12 to 16" sliding table saw, very good. First jointer was a new 6" Powermatic. Not recommended. Next was a used 8" Powermatic, very good. Then an old 16" Crescent that I totally rebuilt and had all parts Blanchard ground, good. 14" delta bandsaw, ended up replacing much of it, now good. Next was a used Mini Max 17" that is pretty good but not serious production level. Shapers: I think one of the least appreciated tools. I've had Delta and Powermatic, both junk. European shapers I've had have all been very good. My favorite is a Gomad tilt. All my shapers have powerfeeds. Be safe, Don't take chances.
Awesome video. The only point I would make on buying used Delta equipment is to stick with the older (made In USA) models. There is a HUUUUGE difference in quality between them and their newer big box/ homeowner cheesy versions. I regularly see older Delta Unisaws, or Contractor saws on FB or CL for less than the cost of the hybrid Delta saw you pictured. Many of the older saws can also run on 110 volts, which is a consideration for many garage shops without 220v power. I bought a used Delta Contractor saw and spent considerable time tuning it and polishing the cast iron top. With a quality blade, I can get cuts every bit as good as your Sawstop. Just my $.02.
I bought cheap in the beginning while learning and had to replace all the Ryobi stuff years ago. Miter saw was good but drills, circular saw and table saw were pretty poor quality and didn't last long. DeWalt, Bosch and Milwaukee brands have been good for remodels and rental house stuff. Definitely worth it imo. And the cordless advice was spot on.
The DeWalt tablesaw has been my affordable favorite for a long damn time now. The first feature that stood out was the tunable fence that stays square tp the table and parallel to the blade (for awhile). Most other saws at that price point, you have to parallel and lock the front and back of the fence individually and double check everytime you move it.... I only check the DeWalt every couple of months to see if it needs retuning.
I'm sure the DeWalt table saw is very nice, but there is only one table saw suitable for a beginner and that is a SawStop and the cost is irrelevant as its dwarfed by the possible cost of having one's fingers re-attached. Now that SawStop makes a $895 model, the extra cost is even modest now.
I have a bosch Table saw and that is fantastic. I have heard nothing but good things about the Dewalt though, yet the Bosch was a few hundred AUD cheaper than the Dewalt.
@@normanklein3155 nonsense, someone with a healthy regard for safety can use any table saw of reputable brand. SawStop is of course ideal, and I would posit that its greatest strength is in fighting complacency with safety, which tends to plague professionals and long-time amateurs the most.
@@normanklein3155 Or just follow common sense safety measures instead of watching careless TH-camrs. My personal safety must is a riving knife as this will greatly help with stopping kickbacks and always using a push stick instead of putting your fingers anywhere near the blade.
This is great stuff! I have always said, "You soon forget how much you paid, but you will always remember the quality." Still, if the amount you think you need to spend is more than you can afford, you never get the tool. Nice of you to put the whole thing is perspective! Keep up the good work.
I have been a carpenter for more than 40 years and to this day i do not have a workshop as clean as yours. there is an age old saying a tradesman never blames his tools you can get the best that money can buy it does not mean your going to get a better result because you can also buy the cheapest and get the best results. spent most my life buying expensive tools but found over the years my old tools serve me better. I almost do everything by hand now because the results are easier to achieve. using an handsaw gives you sense that you have achieved the real skill of wood working. an hand plane give great satisfaction and at the same time keeps you fit. but to each there own.
Great advice video for beginners. I would also add to go with a 8 hole D/A sander VS a 5 hole version. You will get much better dust collection from it and dust collection is also key for abrasive longevity. Your sandpaper will last twice as long with good dust collection.
You've got another sub but I wouldn't rule out Skil as an option for Table saw. I have the Skilsaw SPT99-12 and while I am new to woodworking this thing has handled everything i asked it to. Also has the rack and pinion fence which is so nice of a feature
I have a lumberjack 10" table saw mounted on a Dewalt table saw trolley. Used it for four years on job sites, as long as the blade is kept fresh and 40T or more when doing finish or trim work. As for the router it is only the Triton for me and the work table is hard to beat
I have the Skilsaw SPT99-12 as well. I have no complaints. After initial setup, it runs like a dream and those big wheels make it so comfortable to move around.
I don't own the Skil SPT99-12, Skil's heavy duty 10 in worm drive saw, but it was my top choice for jobsite saws before I decided to get a contractor saw instead. It does well in independent performance tests against saws like the DeWalt. It has a rack and pinion fence system similar to Dewalt's. It'll do dados up to 1/2". And its mobile cart sets the bar for all other mobile carts. Those large wheels are great for stairs and rough terrain on the jobsite.
Almost every single power tool I own was given to me by a relative. I have a 70 year old McGraw/Edison Circular Saw that is still in perfect working condition despite seeing tons of use, and a 40 year old Sears/Craftsman Miter Saw that doesn’t have all the bells and whistles of a newer tool. But it still does it’s job. In fact, the only new power tool I bought myself was a Milwaukee M12 impact driver set, when I bought my home, last year. I appreciate videos like this, because it’s not often that I do spend money on power tools. But with the prospect of turning my garage into a hobby shop, I may eventually need to.
This was great. I actually got many of those you recommended for beginners. Especially the table saw. That one I got on sale to boot. Then I got divorced & she pawned my tools while I was at an appointment with the VA. Saw my favorite speakers in a pawnshop too.
I really appreciate your channel brotha. I found it today while looking for information on beginner woodworking. My 8yo son and I started a little side hustle selling walking sticks made of wild guava wood, Ohia, and assorted other woods at farmer’s markets. It’s been extremely helpful in teaching me some basics because I have zero woodworking experience. I am absolutely hooked now though and I look forward to working with wood every single day! Thanks again!
Kobalt has a very good miter saw for the money. Old Delta saws are also good. Anything with rail forward design or a telescoping arm like that Bosch, can be mounted to a bench with less backspace. That helps a lot. Battery powered tools, Makita and Milwaukee are great and available, Dewalt is up there but just a bit harder to get the top end.
Enjoyable channel. Happy to have stumbled across it. Common sense advice. My situation is a higher budget but limited space. Mine is a one car garage that I've done everything from transmission work, engine repair to furniture. I don't have space for large immovable tools. Everything has got to roll. And nothing can dominate space. Glad to hear your advice regarding contractor table saws and dust collection. A mask! That's what I use. High portable and high filtration. I do use a small shop vac for hand sanders and such. The bigger Ridgid shop vac pulls on the router stand and my BT3000 table saw. I can not justify the expense and space needed for a large filtration unit. Regarding dust escaping from bag units just have a unit in another space or exhaust outside. Appreciate your time.
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
I had a dewalt contractor table saw for years. it was perfectly serviceable and capable of accurate cuts…..However, moving to a powermatic 3 hp table saw i realized just how much more safe a heavy machine was. so much more stable when cutting sheet goods and ripping long material. the blade guard on the powermatic is actually functional without getting in my way unlike the dewalt and i left it one the machine. If i was building a shop from scratch I would head straight for the higher end cabinet saw and go for cheaper options in other areas. just my two cents.
I can highly recommend the Dust Deputy. It collects a lot more than just shavings and large particles, at least when hooked up to a decent shop vac. Last year, I had to cut into a tile floor to repair a plumbing leak under our bathroom. That meant cutting through grout lines, and through a 4" concrete slab. In the past I'd have put on a respirator, taped the door shut, and resigned myself to the room being completely buried in talcum-powder-fine dust. This time I had almost no mess, except directly around the cuts. And when I opened the shop vac, it only had a light dusting on the filter. Everything else was in the bucket under the Dust Deputy....
As a longtime woodworke, I have an assortment of really great tools, Jet, Laguna etc. And what I thought may be a mistake buying was the Ryobi cordless 18 and 23 gauge. Best cheapest toolsI've bought. Outperformed the Makita 23 gauge easily. I still can't believe how well they've been working going on three years now. Amazing how many great pieces I've made, and don't own any Festool.
I think Festool is WAY overpriced in my opinion. A Bosch or DeWalt miter saw is plenty for just about anyone: hobbyist, pro or anything in between. One major issue that most modern miter saws have is that their fences are secured with countersunk bolts, so you can't make fine adjustments and have them stay. All that I know of except for Hitachi and DeWalt have this drawback (yes, even the Festool!). I was able to get around this with my DeWalt aftermarket screws and washers, but I want the security of the countersunk screws combined with a perfectly straight fence, so I'm gonna have to build a custom one at some point.
I am now 70. After 25 years of various iterations of a workshop, I have settled on my preferred setup. Crucial is a planer/thicknesser with a spiral head. If you get grain direction right, you can start sanding at 120 grit. This & a quality 14" bandsaw make up the core of my shop. I also have an old Dewalt chop saw with a quality blade that has worked flawlessly. A table saw is essential & I settled, for various reasons on the Dewalt job site saw; noisy but has never failed me & is capable of serious hard work & is reasonably accurate. I have also embraced the multi function table & the track saw. The track saw will revolutionise woodworking in the same way that the router table has.
Alright, John, you hooked me in. Subscribed to your channel today and slapped that notification bell so I will be checking out your next video. After watching most of your videos, you piqued my interest. I like the humor and down-to-earth approach. And yes, the star wars references. Nuff said. Thanks for the content and looking forward to watching your channel grow John!
There are no dumb channels, only dumb comments. I very much agree with your school of thought here, it is nice to hear a real woodworker say this. Thanks for posting
Good video. I do have a mix of brands, as I just picked up the best tool, for me, for the job. Makita, Milwaukee, Craftsman, Hitachi, Dewault, etc. I did go with the Ryobi battery powered tools. There are cheap models of the tools, as well as higher end ones - and a VERY WIDE variety of tools. Been using them for years with zero issues. The only cheap one I use is the reciprocating saw. I keep waiting for it to die so I can get a better one, but the darn thing won't give up... I like your sponsor by the way!
I enjoyed your video you have some great advice. I will say, that Skil, at least not the TS6307-00, doesn't deserve to be lumped in with HF and Ryobi as far as table saws. I own it and its a great saw similar to the dewalt. It's powerful, accurate, rack and pinon fence, accepts dado stack up to 5/8" and has integrated stand for $350, great value saw.
I agree the Skil 6307 has been good for me and was using a 3/4” dado stack in it this last weekend. I don’t know if it’s significantly better/worse than a Dewalt, but I haven’t had any problems after a year of using it.
I bought a Compact Circular Saw and an Oscillating multi tool to take apart a wood crib and used them to build a dog crate patio table, so my puppy can chill outside and be discrete about it. Worked pretty well. Not gonna lie, the Oscillator is the greatest power tool of my life. Especially for a woman whole doesn't understand why there are so many power tools that only do one thing. They need more all in one tools I think lol
Just found this and it's solid advice. Love that you gave that shout out to Tamar. Everytime someone tells me "you need a sawstop" I point them to her channel to shut them up. I have that exact DeWalt Table saw and it has been bullet proof for the last 6 years for me. Great video.
About ten or twelve years old my kids bought me a kit of Ryobi battery operated tools. I do remodeling and found these to be very functional. They all still work. Also, for a miter saw 10 inch makes sense because the blades are much cheaper than 12". I go through a lot of blades.
I was actually looking to buy a jointer and I would consider myself an intermediate craftsman but I’ve always just used a router and the straight edge to join two pieces of lumber together and it’s worked great for me so thank you for this video!
A jointer is definitely a luxury you can live without. I've been woodworking for over 10 years and do it for a living, and I still don't own one. My shop doesn't have the room for one, and I've learned to live without.
I went with Milwaukee because all their tools, including their yard tools, use the same batteries and their high end tools have brushless motors. Particularly love their table saw, circular saw, hedge trimmer (a bit heavy but cuts like a hot knife through butter), and their blower.
@@AlbiWiedersberg While Ryobi tools have improved in quality in recent years, a lot of reviews by tradespeople say to stay away from them, because while they're cheap, they're also cheaply made. I didn't choose Milwaukee only because of the interchangeable batteries and brushless motors (which Ryobi only came out with last year), I also chose Milwaukee for the quality. The tradespeople say to go for Milwaukee, Makita, or Dewalt and I think the tradespeople know what they're talking about.
Why do you hate Ryobi? I am pretty happy with the tools I've bought so far, the ONE+ batteries fit into all their tools. I'm just curious why you hate them.
@@FoolyLiving I said it was a lesser quality tool, and I don't recommend it for a table saw because the fence is absolute junk. Fine for a miter saw and sander. You get what you pay for generally. Much like a Kia vs a BMW
Can definitely vouch for the Dewalt table saw. I don't have a planer/thicknesser and have been using mine to dimension timber and then cleaning up with a hand plane and it is surprisingly accurate with a 40 tooth blade.
@@joejoslin7451 Is yours the Dewalt? Mine seems great for what is a saw designed for a job site. Unfortunately I only have an 8'x10' shed to work in, so my options are kinda limited. That said, I have managed to make some very nice things using this saw.
@@noire1001 Mine's a ShopSeries SS7202. It's designed poorly (too many things to describe and be succinct). Rough cuts *might* be ok for it, but even then I'll use circular or jig saw.
@@joejoslin7451 Mine is a "Benchtop" series sold at K-Mart when they closed a local store (2003?). Also bought at that time a 10" miter saw and drill press. The only thing that seemed to work "out of the box" was the drill press. Hated the miter saw and was skeptical of the table saw. After I saw videos on tuning the saws, then putting good blades on (though not great ones), I would have put both against most any other saw out there. Upgrade the miter saw to a Harbor Freight sliding miter saw. Same thing goes for it as well (though it's time to tune it again).
I've watched a ton of videos about recommended beginner woodworking tools. This is the first one that I've ever "liked" and "subscribed" to. It's also the only one I've ever saved to refer back to later. Keep up the great work! (And thanks for the straight-up honest info!!!)
Don’t forget if you are hand or power sanding to frequently use the unclogger. I managed to do without the dangerous jointer for decades. I now have one but I don’t use it much. I would buy an edge sander if I were starting up. My most used power tools are circular saw, band saw,mitre saw, edge sander, pillar drill and cordless drill. Followed by planer or sanding thicknesser and bench morticer.
Definitely got to agree with the dewalt job site saw. It is awesome! Love that thing!! As for the jointer….. I’ve got 2. One is a small ryobi that well works ok. The other is a makita attached to my planer. I built a roll away stand for it to make it easier to move around. It’s an 8 incher, and I have been able to run 6 footers off of it without adding any extra tables. It runs beautifully! Of course as you said a floor model would be even better but unfortunately I don’t have the space. I would say forget about the sixer and go with a portable 8” especially if you can get it as an attachment for your planer.
I have one of the little Craftsman bench top jointers and love it. When used within its limitations it does exactly what I need. Most of what I need it for is in building bowl blanks between 8 and 12 inches, making that jointer the perfect size. If I’m building a table top I have different tools for that.
I think a lot of what to buy first and what is useful comes down to what you are going to use the tools for. If you are finishing your basement, installing new molding or some cabinets or shelving, maybe building a deck or a shed a miter saw is real handy. If you are building furniture perhaps not. But most beginner's cut their teeth on home improvements and fine woodworking comes much later. The other thing to be mindful of is how much you really expect to use a tool. I would like to have a big jointer but space is limited. So I opted for a good size band saw which I use frequently and work around having a small jointer since I rarely need one.
I'm with you on the 8" jointer. I started off with a 6" and almost immediately knew I needed a larger jointer. It's only 2" wider but it's 10 times the tool.
I also vote highly for the DeWalt DWE7491RS; it is really a great saw and, as you said, the fence is what sets it apart (including their odd but great little fence support bar). The only issue is their crazy miter slot, which defeats many/most featherboards and is sloppy for most miter gauges.
I don't understand why everyone loves the DeWalt fence system on their job site saw. While I thought that their telescoping fence rail was pretty nifty, that flimsy flip down faced fence more than defeats their rail's advantage. Also as someone that has been operating table saws for most of my life, I would have a hard time stepping backward in craftsmanship working with such a saw.
@@ancienttom97 WHAT are you talking about???? How does their flip down fence support in any way make them worse, not better??? If you don't like the little support, don't use it. But I have yet to see ANY other saw fence that extends out past the table but still offers support for long pieces. As to your "I have a hard time stepping backwards", what does THAT have to do with THIS video, beyond apparent snobbery? Jeez.
My husband bought me my fist mitersaw about 15 years ago from Sears. Thought I would return it for what I wanted. Great gift. I have used it for so many things. Not just for things like quarter round. I even used it for cutting the plastic pipes when installing a new kitchen sink. You need really straight cuts for that. For copper you can find pipe cutters. I also used it when rebuilding my balcony, as I could keep it on the lower deck instead of having to walk to the table saw in the garage for cuts. It was enough work going up and down stairs carrying lumber threw the house.. Bought my first table saw for installing laminate flooring in our old house. Did the entire main floor. Got a lot of use out of it over the years. Installed the floor at a friend's house as well. Went more expensive for my second table saw. I have had 4 sanders. The first owed me nothing. Cheapest one at the store. Sanded several pieces of furniture for refinishing, hand sanded 4 wood floors and the kitchen cupboards. Failed just before the kitchen was done. Went with Dewalt for the second. Gone in just over a year. Friend convinced me I got a lemon. The second one barely lasted a year. Bought cheap one from Canadian Tire for my last one. Over 5 years now and still going. My husband had a cheap cordless drill that we used for decades. When it went dead I bought him a Sears cordless drill. Waste of money. As was the next. We now have 2 corded drills and an old cordless one we bought at a garage sale. It is working great, unlike the garbage ones out there now. We also now have a drill press. Last years Christmas present. Not used often, but handy when needed. Would love a wood plane. But just got a new wet tile saw, so I need to wait. Also want a table jig saw. They look much easier than the hand held. I think people often get the new tools to fit a project. And everyone does different things. But brand name does not mean much anymore.
Really like your style and great advice! People may want to consider an alternative to the DeWalt table saw: the Grizzly 2-hp model g0869. Same rack & pinion fence plus soft-start, variable speed, and yes, it takes a dado stack. Extremely pleased with both the saw and the support.
sounds like you need to do some research into decent tools.. Indont have anything fancy and i use my tools literally every day. never let me down. ever. don't be a brand loyalist. Don't buy the brand new thing. buy stuff that's reviewed and works.
@@orestracki6617 The best. You would think a hammer for example will not bend the nails but it does. Every time. The shop refused to accept them back telling me that people who are no good at making things always blame the tools.
I believe that if a power tool is adjustable, you can improve performance not only by fine tuning the machine, but buying the best cutting blade you can afford. Years ago I started buying Forrest blades with dampers. 4.5 inch for my PC trim saw, 12 inch for my Dewalt SDC miter saw and 10 inch blades for my Delta cabinet TS. I mean multiple TS blades: rip, combination, custom top ground ATB, cross cut for plywood and man-made materials. Bought most of mine at trade shows at good discounts and clean and back to Forrest for retipping and sharpening. In 22 years have never replaced a Forrest blade.
@@jasonmartin7137 Aw, that's nothin'! I have a product that I KNOW no one else is making. When you build a lute, you scrape off the top wood around the edge so you can inlay what is called half binding around that edge. NO ONE makes a tool for this, specifically. I figured out how to make one, and I am WELL on the way to world domination and untold riches. Lord knows, I may even sell one or two a year!!! NO ONE will be able to stand in my way!
Good video, brother! I already got the bench top jointer, but I got it at auction for like $40. I'll save up for the used 6". Also, really glad you helped clear up the confusion on what saw to get to enjoy a decent fence. I was looking cabinet saw to replace the Craftsman 10" I got at a yard sale for $20, but maybe I don't need that... At least not until I build my timber frame shop! 😉
My Ryobi Table saw adjusts great. But what made me a Ryobi buyer and fan is their One + tools. My first Ryobi one+ drill Infound partially submerged in a bucket of water. After it dried it worked fairly well, I cleaned it up and oiled the chuck but the impressive thing was the life of the battery. I used that drill periodically for various small jobs and it lasted 6 months give or take without charging. I am very happy with my Ryobi tools.
Support the channel by visiting my Etsy Shop and using affiliate links in the video description. Do it - and I'll keep making videos.
www.etsy.com/shop/LincolnStWoodworks?ref=seller-platform-mcnav
How about you just continue to make content...then you'll get the support 🤦♂️
I once heard the suggestion that you buy the cheapest tools you can get when you're starting out. If you break it or wear it out then you move up to better quality because it's probably a tool you use a lot. If it doesn't wear out then you probably don't use it that much and you didn't waste more money than you had to.
Thats fantastic advice Thomas
I like that philosophy. Because trying to sell an upper tier tool that you realize you don't need is a whole other kind of headache.
It works unless cheap tools means lower quality, like DeWalt stuff.
It is a very good advice. The only catch is that sometimes, you spend so much time trying to master a cheap tool to realize, it is just not accurate enough, whatever you do. That's what happened with me with a big table saw; I've took on the challenge to master it for 3 years, and was able to do nice stuff. Then I got the 735 Dewalt Jobsite Table Saw to realize I spent 3 years loosing my time to a saw that was never going to provide the results I thought could be achieved
Harbor freight method
Seen a lot of Ryobi hate - but I can thoroughly recommend their impact driver. I bought it when I had very little money because I needed it for a job. Used it heavily, daily, for a year, dropping it off of multiple first and second story roofs.
2.5 years later still probably the most used tool in my house. One battery charge lasts over 2 months with general house hold use - truly couldn’t be happier with it.
I've been woodworking since I was an early teenager. I'm on the leading edge of 73 now. I've built houses, garages, barns, sheds, furniture and cabinetry with the odd canoe, sailboat, rowboat and dory thrown in for variety. My grandfather taught me the basics of carpentry and cabinetmaking using hand tools only. Over the years, I began to use power tools and learned to adjust and maintain them to get the best results while speeding up productivity. A lot of my workshop power tools are old time Craftsman (Contractor Table Saw with expanded table and modified fence, old school cast iron jointer, etc.) These have been enhanced by using my abilities with milling machines and lathes to either alter or remanufacture parts. (The problems that some people have had using dado stacks with some Craftsman table saws was actually a pretty easy fix.) I have added a Dewalt 735 and love it. I do have a DeWalt miter saw that I have "tuned" and still use it for doing non-repetitive cuts. Repetitive cuts are done with a table saw and sled. A lot of mistakes are made by the woodworker and blamed on their tools. Taking the time to do things correctly is critical to good results. Take the time to plan, measure and set up before putting tool to wood. Power tools are great and save a lot of tedious, fatiguing effort, but can ruin a project if not applied properly. Take the time - you'll be glad you did.
Thank you Sir
The Skil brand was baught by chevron and their new model had excellent quality as far as anyone can say. Rack and pinion fence that locks on front and back, integrated stand, and a steal of a price.
You probably should look into it, no need to trash them anymore.
Agree on this one. They apparently made some upgrades within the last year as well. Better quality, more cut capacity, and a taller stand. It can take a dado blade and it's just a solid saw.
Sure did, and at 269$ it's an amazing value and very well made. Can't beat the 15 amp 10" table saw by Skil!!
"Sometimes it's the archer and not the arrow, my friends"
I second that.
That’s what she said.
most of the time that is the case if you cant do a good job with the most basic and crap tools then you are not a pro
Thank you Varun
Exactly. Whatever you're building today, someone built it thousands of years ago with a rock and a bone knife.
I got a few skills with tools but you can hand me the crappiest sewing machine and I could make a wedding dress over night!
Well, refreshing to hear someone actually give good advice on TH-cam. I made my first cabinet for a client in 1979. I grew up nailing things together with my dad on a ranch. He had absolutely no idea what he was doing but we built stuff anyway. After that I went to work and became a carpenter. Then one day an elderly lady asked me to build a vanity for her and I did. Guess what, I didn’t even have a table saw. I owned a jigsaw, a drill and a 6 1/2” Skillsaw. I drilled a couple of holes in my saw, built a table and bolted that sucker to the bottom and built that cabinet. I built a bunch more like that until I got a used craftsman table saw. I had to clamp a board down for a fence but I did it. Yes it took longer but the cabinets I made really looked good and people keep asking me to build for them.
Long story but I ran a professional cabinet shop for years and studied furniture making at a place called The Primrose Center in Missoula MT. I still build cabinets and furniture and have learned leather working for variety. I still laugh at that kid making cabinets with a homemade table saw.
Try to buy decent stuff but don’t get hung up over tools. You can make a lot of nice stuff with what you have!
You said it yourself... "yes it took longer"
If you value your time, buy decent-to-good tools. If you don't value your time, buy dog shit or jerry rig stuff that no longer serves its original purpose. It's literally that simple. I don't have enough space on this forum to go in to it, but you're taking advice from a guy who has a shop full of the more expensive tools, and that's not a coincidence.
If you're broke AF and need a chance, do what you have to do to level up. I would never begrudge a man for that. Every apprentice carpenter on a job should devote *at least* 10% of his weekly paycheck to tools. If you can't afford a good set of tools after a couple months, your boss is underpaying you.
Fake Pseudonym - What was the point of your comment under his post? Are you okay?
@@Mita7538 if it wasn't clear, it was to say that the advice given in the video was not that great. I am well. You?
@@fakepseudonym669 Except the comment that the first tool to buy would be a miter saw, (see my comment on that) I found the rest that he had to say very right on the point. I hope that you are not still assembling your cabinetry with nails.
@@Mita7538 Yeah, I felt that way too.
My GF bought me the combo pack of Ryobi with that gawdly huge plastic carry case they first came out with, back in the late 90s. Used them for everything as a storm chaser for over 20 yrs. Still using them today as I build a custom casting deck for my canoe now that I can enjoy retirement. The only thing I've had to do is buy batteries. I'd highly recommend them whether new or old to construction work.
Thats awesome
I still have some of the older Ryobi blue tools (18v) which have outlasted multiple newer tools. Cannot kill those things.
100% agree with you. I've been steadily buying Festool in the 10 years since I went pro as a furniture maker, and they're awesome. But I have an old, blue Ryobi impact driver that just will not die. I dropped it 20 feet onto a concrete floor not once, but twice, and apart from the bits falling out of the holder, it didn't even seem to notice. Replaced the batteries with the LiOn ones and they've also been going strong for 5 years or more. Just a great tool for a ridiculously cheap price.
I’ve been watching woodworking videos on TH-cam for at least 3 years now and never came across this channel for some odd reason. Stumbled upon the dust collection video yesterday and have been catching up on his videos since then. Either this guy is really underrated or the algorithms somehow thought I wouldn’t like his content but man this is refreshing, no bullshit, perfect amount of humour woodworking! Keep it up!
Glad YT helped you find the channel
I just watched 3hours of your stuff. Good stuff young man. I started at 17yrs. Old. I tell the story five 5 year Jobs over 30 yrs. . All in one; two; three; four man shops. I'm 63 and just now setting my own low budget shop in Idaho. I will revisit your channel
Love this no BS channel.
"Sometimes it is the Archer and not the arrow my friends" I love that! And that goes for EVERYTHING. Great work my friend👍
I’m a GC and we also do a lot of trim and finish carpentry for clients. We use a combo of the dewalt table saw and a Festool track saw. The dewalt table saw has ripped miles of lumber and it impresses every time it just keeps going.
Which festool track saw do you use ?
I screwed a sheet of plywood to the top and made supports and I would use a a straight edge to make a fence and I built custom cabinets onsite for several clients onsite. I love my dewalt table saw. I had another one for years before this one but I had to give it to a buddy when I moved away and didn't have room to bring it. Great saws for onsite work
My first major tool purchase for my shop, when I was 17 years old , was a used Delta Professional cabinet makers table saw from probably the forties or fifties. It was eighty dollars with a new blade worth more than the cost of the saw. One of the features of this saw was that for miter cuts the blade remained fixed and the whole table tilted for the angle cut. At first I thought it was strange, however I discovered that the board being cut was pressed against the fence with gravity ,making for a beautiful cut every time. Eventually I thought it was time to upgrade to a newer saw with all the bells and whistles even though the saw never failed I gave the old Delta to my son. Boy I wish I had that old saw back, fifty three years later, but I'm sure he is enjoying it. The point is , like you, we don't need more than what works for you. And you don't always get good results from a fancy name brand tool. I'm still looking for good used tools with quality and safety in mind. Don't focus on name brands because of the name but quality you can usually spot, but you may never know until you use it ,some times we get burned . Very nice video.
100% agree with 95% these recommendations! I used small and old table saws with plenty of success, but by when I upgraded to the Delta you flashed on the screen my life got way better.
Awesome
My friend Jeff, has been a carpenter for 50 years! Makes stunning custom spiral staircases, beautiful cabinets. He uses a table saw from the 70s.
Just got that Dewalt jobsite table saw. I agree, it's a great upgrade!
I have watched a lot of these "beginner" videos throughout the years. This is the first one that really hits the nail on the head for me! Quite precise about price ranges and expectations
Yes! He is really good at giving you the nuts and bolts while being realistic about what people are working with money wise ...
I agree. It was a good video.
Have you tried a hammer?
I've been using my Ryobi job site table saw for 12 years now. It has a wide stance integrated fold-up stand, 31" right rip and will easily handle up to 7/8" dado. I've no complaints.
Yeah, I don't understand his apparent distaste for the Ryobi brand. They are great tools and I swear by them.
What’s interesting is the reviews for Ryobi table saws are pretty negative. Not exactly sure why but it’s steering me away from them. That said I have a Ryobi miter saw and I really like it.
I have the Ryobi cordless tool set and they are tough!! I built my off grid tiny house with this set years ago. I use them nearly every day since and they are still holding up well. They wont break the bank and they nearly last forever. I did wear out the circular saw bearing though and had to replace that but I had used it heavily. Everything else is still running well.
I love my Ryobi cordless Lithium Ion tools, but weedwacker and the sanders are frustrating to use on battery even if you have a bunch of batteries, but the Newer green 18+ batteries run longer with a more consistent power delivery than older battery tech did (obviously). I was given a huge box literally like 50-60 (used, but free), of the new style batteries so my tolerance for using batteries on those two tools has gone up greatly. Only half or so charge, but I have so many that I haven't taken the time to see if they have a bad cell or just low charge tripping the protection circuit.
They are great, I still have some of the old Nickel battery tools and they're still going just got warn out brushes.
Awesome
@@Lincolnstww Yeah it's awesome I'll just pop one of the 4Ah batteries in there then bring one or two out with me and it works out fine and if not I have a dozen more waiting on the sideline LOL. The other nice thing about these is the power usage profile with the NiMH batteries the tools (especially weed wackers) would noticeably start being weaker within a few minutes and just slowly die off VERY annoying! The lithium batteries start to show power drops closer to being dead then they drop off quick way nicer IMO.
They got a lot of different batteries checking mine I have my original two LI+ION batteries from them (P104 dual layer) are 48Wh and my "new" (P108 dual layer) is 72Wh not bad. The others are single thickness but pretty good P102 24Wh, P107 28Wh, P190 36Wh crazy seeing battery evolution.
Yes! I built my cabin in the Adirondacks with my ryobi tools.
I love my 18v ryobi tools.
From my personal experience Ryobi is the brand to go for beginners. The battery ecosystem is fantastic, included features are crazy good for the price, availability and variety of tools and accessories is never a problem, and most importantly, budget. I've had my drill, impact driver, screwdriver, miter saw, jigsaw, trim router and both orbital and finishing sanders for close to 3 years and they've never failed me.
Ryobi is also good for pros on job site stuff. Tools in the primary colors or dark teal tend to walk off on their own, but highlighter green tools tend to stay where they are xD
I haven ran Ryobi from the blue days have 12 of the Lion batteries now for my daily used pro tools I have mostly brushless but those once a year tools I get the cheaper bushed. have over 20 tools drills drivers sanders saws lawn trimer polesaw 4 gallon vac love this for fast car clean up and pellet stove.
It's really easy to put a ryobi battery into a ryobi tool. Other brands with rail-style interfaces I've found it easy to miss one side while not paying enough attention.
Me too
I started woodworking in the 7th grade and continued through high school. I make, doors, cabinets, and anything else. Here is part if my list. Chop saw is a Festool, table saw is an Ulmia with sliding table, jointer is a Yates American, stroke sander is an Oliver, bandsaw is a Yates American y-30, vertical belt sander is a Powermatic, mortiser is a Piwermatic foot operated, I also use a Festool Domino 700.planer is a SCMI 9hp. Plus a bunch more in my home shop.
Haha, someone just sent me this video... thanks for the kind words! I can't wait to upgrade that saw one day though... ha
My crystal ball sees a sawstop in your future! Thanks for stopping by
@@Lincolnstww one day!! 🤞
Tamar is all time great! In a traditionally male dominant field, she is dedicated to her craft and crushes every facet of this art.
He is telling the truth. You are amazing!
With what you turn out on that Dewalt I can only imagine how much more amazing your work will be when you put a sawstop next to that new festool domino. :-)
You make a lot of great points in this video! I have always hated the "buy once, cry once" mentality. I have always operated on "buy the best you can reasonably afford" and if you end up using the tool a lot, save up for a better version in the future.
That's a perfect way to sum it up.
Exactly!
this takes sooo much longer to say, though :)
I subscribe to this thought process except I borrow from friends first. And if I find I'm borrowing it more than a couple times, I buy my own and know if I want a more expensive one.
I agree, I have been in the WWing business since '79, purchase the best tools you can afford, garbage tools make your job harder. The better the tool the more enjoyable the work. I do not agree on the miter saw comment of the vid poster, every shop is different on what you build, in my shop, cabinet saw, miter saw and cyclone are used daily...
3:28 - ouch! Didn't think Ryobi were bottom of the barrel..? Between my brother and I, we''ve got heaps of their tools and never had a problem in all the wood and mechanical stuff we get up to..
I love my Ryobi cordless drill and driver. I bought them as a combo pack 17 years ago. Since then they have built 2 homes and are still constantly being used. I bought some larger batteries for them a few years ago to get a longer run-time but the originals still hold charge well.
I totally agree. I bought a combo pack in 2014 and I'm still using them daily. They don't owe me a dime when they finally crap out.
I have a few of the old blue Ryobi stuff and they are still solid - except my random orbit needs a new velcro pad but they are unavailable from Ryobi because "this model has been discontinued" which it shitty of them but I can probably find one that's compatible.
1:25 I've been doing w working for over 30 years. just bought a miter saw this year. love it.
1:59 started using Ryobi in 2004, my drill still works. 41 tools later....
3:33 my craftsmen jobsite 10" from 2004 still works great in my massive table.
5:00 my H freight orbital one still works after 8 years, I prefer my 2 Ryobi cordless sanders; brushless belt and orbital.
6:31 still havent got a planer but shopping for a 3 blade or spiral.
thank you, because of you i went with Makita. Best power tools out there. there range is huge, now i have tools for woodworking, taking care of my landscape, fans, radios, lamps, coffee maker, etc... so much awesome stuff and all on the same battery platform. im so happy i don't have carry a zillion different brands, i now have one brand of batteries that work on everything i own.
When looking at tables saws, here’s what i ran into. I first picked up a skil. the miter slot was a nonstandard t shape, not 3/4” slot and i could not upgrade the miter gauge. I think that went back to the store after one cut. I replaced it with a Dewalt saw similar to what is shown here, but it did not support dado blade stacks. I got by with it for quite a while, but occasionally was frustrated by the small rip width, lack of dado blade, and underpowered when ripping long boards. All that to say, bigger is better on a table saw, and now I have a small cabinet saw from Grizzly, which is way more fun to use. Think about the features you need before buying... rip width, safety, power, table size, mobility, miter track size, dado blades etc.
Bigger is better, but most people don’t have the money and plenty don’t have the space. The current Dewalt though can do up to 82.5 cm width, has a 2kW motor, uses standard slots and the arbor is long enough for those who want to use a dado blade.
What Ian said
Maybe the deWalt is much better than my Makita. I have a Sedgwick saw in my workshop, but I bought a much cheaper site saw for my home. It is so inferior and less safe. The plastic guard was smashed when a cut off jammed in the insert slot. It is noisy and the mitre fence is loose in the slot. Although it does seem to crosscut square. Without dust extraction the rise and fall needs regular attention. Perhaps a beginner should have a mitre saw for cross cutting and a track saw system for ripping. Both might still be useful after upgrading to a table saw. I also recommend a cheap edge sander till you can afford a better one. The whole thing depends on how much disposable income you have.
@@ian1352 Yep. This.
I have the DW745. LOVE it, but it does not accept Dado's as the arbor is just long enough for a single blade. The newer model has included a longer arbor for Dado's and slightly faster blade speed. Motor is exactly the same.
I've been looking at which table saw best suits my needs, and I keep coming back to the Dewalt because it's fence and rail system is better than a lot of other more expensive table saws. Thanks for your insights sir.
I’ve come to the same conclusion, but for a couple of hundred more you can get the saw stop contractor saw….
Happy with my Rigid and it does take a dado blade.
I own 3 - 10” table saws. A 3 hp jet cabinet saw. A 1.5 hp jet contractor saw. And a dewalt 10” portable table saw. I use the dewalt saw a lot. It doesn’t have the power of the other 2 and I use it mostly for plywood and soft woods. But I have say, it’s a great saw for the $. And the dust collection is pretty good. I take it to rentals and use it in the garage. When shopping for a saw, make sure it has a good fence. Make sure it’s straight to the blade and SOLID. It should not deflect, unless really pushed on hard.
Bro your channel rocks. Your TH-cam short of falling down the hill to fetch a pallet sold me. I am a hobbyist woodworker with very little skill and very little money. I'm drawn to this craft because of its therapeutic qualities. I literally disappear into my own little world when I'm measuring and cutting. I would encourage anyone who is on the fence about woodworking or an experienced tradesman to subscribe to this man's channel. Let's support the craft one dowel at a time
Love the humour. I'm new to DIY and newer to woodworking. Currently own a drill, driver, and circular saw. I was at a loss over what to buy next. This was very helpful. Thanks man!
Awesome glad it helped
1) don't underpower your equipment, make sure you are on a 20 amp to get all the power and not burn out your motors.
1B) (because I am lazy for editing): make sure your motors get fully up to speed before you start cutting, you want the blades to be doing the work and you want to keep the RPMs up. If you slow down the blade the blade will start to wobble and it will throw off your cut. That's how you'll get Burns and scoring in cuts. You can go slow with a miter cut and virtually get no blowout.
2) the orbit (1/8, 1/16, 1/32, and 1/64) are what you need to focus on, get a minimum 1/32 it is good for taking down a surface and decent at a finish... 1/64 is a finish sander and not for taking off volume... Get an adjustable speed and you can slow down the speed (you need to slow down to) with a 1/32 and get a better sand without swirls. (wipe with water or denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner to raise the grain before doing this for a better result) bostch has a good one that is competitively priced. A low orbit sander and cheap sandpaper will leave hook marks and swirls. Also, just like the saws, let the sander do the work.
3) The DeWalt planer and table saw are highly recommend by myself as I have used them professionally for over a decade. They last and do very good job and stay true, and have enough power to be safe...
4) pay attention to professionals and reviews for saws if you're going to get your radial arm, or the more expensive compound miter saws. Some saws that make a great miter box do not make good radial alarm saws as they will not cut square on longer cuts. I have a Delta chop saw that is older than dirt that still works, though it's only a 10 inch. Dewalts make fine 12-in chop saws if you need a little bit more space. I have a Makita compound sliding miter saw for any of my detail work as it's the only one I found to cut square and straight and have all the angles that I need of all saws on the market until you get to the truly expensive stuff (through they no longer make a 12" version of the sliding compound miter saw).
5) DeWalt miter boxes have a lot of power, however the color that holds the motor to the blade is cast aluminum, so if you're too rough with it you can actually bend that and throw it out a square. So don't slam your tool into wood to cut or drop or strike the housing too much as it will ruin your saw.
Over 20 years of high end cabinet work and furniture restoration experience.
Thank you for all this!
No s---! Sooooo generous with your advice & detail! THANKS!
Subscribed when you said no one is sponsoring. Like a video without too much commercial intentions. Love your videos.
My wife and I literally burst out laughing when you got to the video sponsor.
wait until Daniel Rybin house flips is the sponsor of an upcoming video, you wont even see it coming until the bill is on your doorstep
@@Lincolnstww you must have me confused with someone actually successful 😆
Yea, dude got my subscription right there lol
Had to subscribe after that.
Yup, me too. I did hit the subscribe button
I definitely need to differ about the skil table saw. I purchased, own, and use a Skil TS6307. It’s a fantastic little saw for 300 bucks. Was square to the fence right off the box, and the fence even all the way through, and easy to adjust. My biggest gripe is the miter gauge is junk, but they all are at this price point.
I've heard all good things about the Soil. I'm gettng one for my remote workshop
I've used proper "good old days" Delta cabinet saws, and even their miter gauges were sewage. Essentially, expect to replace a miter gauge.
@@tomsardo6984 Earlier this year, I bought a Craftsman table saw from Lowe's. The problem with it was the fence only extended to 12". So practically useless for sheet stock.
After struggling to make it work, or watching it sit out of projects entirely because the saw just couldn't do it, I sold it and bought a DeWalt, with a 32" rip capacity.
If my Lowe's store carried that Skil table saw, with its 24" fence, I probably would have bought it, and kept it. There have been a few things I've used the additional capacity of the DeWalt for, but I could work around the Skil.
@@thegardenofeatin5965 if you buy a saw, ANY saw just for the miter gauge, then you’re bound to be sorely disappointed… rather it’s the 300 dollar skil, or 3k Powermatic. Just how the game is played.
I started with a factory rebuilt ShopSmith with a 4 inch jointer. It was a great all around work horse. Solid cast iron bed and fence. Held settings very well. Table saw function wasn't great, but by building a plywood fence box that fit over stock fence, accuracy was improved to within 1/64. Plus the fence had a outfield support, just 4x6 inches. Perfect for most needs. Down fall of the shopsmith as a table saw is depth of cut is controlled by height of table.
That Dewalt saw is a beast! Bought an older model on clearance when I was doing a reno for one of my girls - I like that it had an imperial and a metric scale for the rip fence (metric is great when you need to “take just a little off”). Made some flooring transitions out of red oak and needed to rip down 3/4 x 6” boards to 1/2”. Ripped on edge with blade at full height and the saw never even slowed down. Just a beast! And that fence is dead on accurate.
I just bought the DeWalt job site this is good news
@@farrockawayboyz6881 I bought the Dewalt and love it. I couldn’t be happier. I took back the Ryobi , what a piece of junk. I could cut more accurately with a spoon
I recently came to the same conclusion that cordless sanders are not worth it due to dust collection hoses. Thanks for the thoughtful explanations and snarky wit. I look forward to your videos.
Thank you Lance
I went corded simply for price. It was $90 for corded vs. $180 for a battery-powered one. Not everything needs to be cordless and half the price always wins in my books.
I find the idea of a cordless sander to be silly. A sander is one of those tools that you run for extended periods of time. Not very battery friendly. And Jon makes the best point about being tethered to dust collection. A cordless sander is kind of like, wireless cable ties.
Came into this thinking you were going to be trolling, ended up going, "yup, that's true." To pretty much everything. Don't own a jointer or planar yet so got some good advice on top. Both of those are next on the list of purchases for my shop.
Its funny how you learn what not to buy when you buy the crap. Learning from mistakes via experience is really one of the best teachers. Those pain lessons always seem to stick the longest.
Great vid man.
As for job site tables saws the skil saw portable SPT99-11 with the stand is a very good option. It has wormdrive with a lot of power. the folding is easy and is very easy to move around with the big wheels. It’s fence is easy to square up with the blade. I think it has the widest table with its extension which is nice for ripping sheet goods. It is a lot better than the other skil table saws which I believe you are most likely familiar with.
DeWalt has a jobsite saw with a fence that extends to 32", the Skil goes out to 24". Which is plenty of room for a lot of projects, but that extra room on the DeWalt does open some doors.
@@thegardenofeatin5965 The model number I have and referenced in my post above has a fence that extends out further than 24”. Without looking it up if I remember right it’s 30” so not quite as far as the Dewalt.
Nice video, and good advice. I am fortunate and have been able to pickup good quality mitre and table saws as well as sanders and drill press. I do have the Dewalt 735 planer and I have a nice 6” jointer with a helical head. But I run into problems in that area on several projects, and rather than worrying about replacing my jointer or planer, I have made friends with my wood mill. He has an 8 inch long bed jointer and 24” planer, and for almost nothing he will run things threw for me. It would take me many, many years of projects to pay for either of these things for what it costs to use his. That and it is great to just hang out and talk wood and projects. Never underestimate what you can learn and money you can save by networking with other woodworkers. My experience has always been that they love to share their knowledge and often time to help other woodworkers out.
I just had to tell you, "and now I'm a Makita guy for life because I love blue and weed whackers" is probably both the funniest and most insightful description of cordless platform preference I've seen in the dozens of hours of YT videos I've watched on the subject!
The most surprising tool I've purchased was a Harbor Freight angle grinder. On sale for $7 (I think its typically $11 now) and I had no use for it at the time. But in the last couple of years I've used it from cutting stone to cutting metal fencing (hog wire) in addition to various grinding duties. With the right blade or abrasive wheel it easily did the job and working long after I would have assumed it to fail (again cheapo HF tool). I only minimally take good care of it, it just keeps going. I've been looking at upgrading, maybe a battery powered but really haven't found a case where I need to.
I had one but the switch failed after about 5 uses. If you ever get a good cordless grinder you'll wonder how you lived without it. I also have a corded makita grinder for the bigger jobs.
Good video on tools. I'll tell you what though, harbor freight Hercules brand had been standing the test of durability and precision for it's affordability. Always good to move up when needed though!
Agree completely. I have the Herc. mitre saw. it was accurate right out of the box with a decent blade and I’ve built two decks and a few pieces of furniture with it. Wait for the good sales at HF.
You are correct about the 8 inch jointer. If you build using solid wood, your first 2 operations should be flattening the face and jointing one edge. Next you need to go to the planer and flatten all your stock. Then you can go to the tablesaw to rip your stock. Finally go to the mitersaw (long bed support) for crosscutting. Buy an 8 inch long bed jointer. Your accuracy begins here. Can i do the same thing with handplanes, yes. But it takes 4 times longer. Buy a 15 inch industrial planer with a longer bed and great feed rollers. Can you get by with a lunchbox planer, yes but it will take twice as long and you can not plane wide panels. Buy a 10 or 12 inch tablesaw that has cast iron tables and is 27 inches deep. You can use smaller tablesaws but they are more dangerous. Your fingers matter. Buy a 12 inch miterbox, 10 inch is too small for a lot of stock. I will call bs on not buying a cordles sander. I bought the square base dewalt 2 years ago and was amazed. When i had to work on 2nd story windows on a 28 foot ladder i was glad i did not have a cord. I can run a long time on a 4 ah battery.
Things i did right 43 years ago:
Bought the 8 inch industrial jointer, 2 hp
Bought the 15 1/2 inch industrial planer
(They are both still running)
Things i did wrong 43 years ago:
Bought a smaller tablesaw trying to save money. Finally found a 1957 Delta unisaw that i bought from an 80 year old craftsman who was downsizing. What a difference that was.
Bought a 10 inch miterbox. Too small.
Bought a nice 12 inch delta when the motor burned up on the 10 inch.
Could have saved 50 to 75 percent on my power tools if i had bought them at local auctions or from craftsman who were retiring. This takes time but there are bagains out there. I have bought $400 tablesaws for $40, $225 router for $50, $1500 planers for $200. Went to one auction where there were 5 of everthing. This guy had 5 tablesaws. 5 planers, 4 jointers, 5 lathes, and lots of other stuff. Bought one box lot that had 4 combination squares, marking guages, chisels, and planes that was worth over $200. I paid $15 because i wanted the brass backed dovetail saw i had seen i seen the box. Craigslist, estate sales. Auctions, and clearance bins at home depot can fill up your shop with great tools that will last a lifetime. You don't have to pay full price.
Great info for an amateur just starting out like myself. Thanks!
As a newbie this has been one of the most useful videos I've watched this year. Thanks for the great advice!
Glad it was helpful!
Love your videos because they are not biased and you always tell the truth about woodworking tools, techniques and materials, you had saved me a lot of time and money and I really appreciate it, wish you success !!
As to the mitre saw, I used a simple Dewalt for 6 years but my oh my is the Bosch 12in glide an amazing saw. For the kind of stuff I do it’s perfect. The most stable side to side motion and yet compact in depth because no tubes sticking out the back. I have not hit the point of the mitre saw being unimportant yet, for me it’s second only to my drills for important tools. It’s also much much much safer than the table or circular saws so the 12” blade plus compound takes a lot of cuts away from the other saws.
I have the cheapest Ryobi table saw available. Aligning the blade to the miter slot was a bit wonky, but I was able to get it done, and the fence has its quirks, but I find it works well enough for me. (For these points, very likely I just don't know what I'm missing, and maybe one of these days I'll upgrade to something better and actually realize it).
The most glaring issues I've had with it are that the miter slot is a nonstandard size (and there's only one) and the table is tiny, with a puny rip capacity. I made a crosscut sled and DIY'd an extension wing/router table, both of which work...OK (good enough for me). But were I doing it again (and still trying to go cheap) I'd definitely opt for something that at least has 2 standard size miter slots and also try to DIY the rip fence (probably using John Heisz's design).
A lot of great points in there Jonathan. Thanks for contributing
I have to say, one of the first tools I purchased was the dewalt jobsite table saw with folding stand. It is flawless, accurate and has given me 4 years of faithful service so far. It was an excellent purchase over time. I am precise with my tools, so if you are a rough worker, your results may vary.
Thanks for sharing
Very well done. I owned a commercial woodworking shop but am now retired. I started as a hobby with an old Shopsmith that was given to me. Not recommended! My first table saw was a Delta unisaw. OK but not great. Next was a SawStop, a considerable step up. The An SCMI 12 to 16" sliding table saw, very good. First jointer was a new 6" Powermatic. Not recommended. Next was a used 8" Powermatic, very good. Then an old 16" Crescent that I totally rebuilt and had all parts Blanchard ground, good. 14" delta bandsaw, ended up replacing much of it, now good. Next was a used Mini Max 17" that is pretty good but not serious production level. Shapers: I think one of the least appreciated tools. I've had Delta and Powermatic, both junk. European shapers I've had have all been very good. My favorite is a Gomad tilt. All my shapers have powerfeeds. Be safe, Don't take chances.
Amen on the Makita - same goes for me. I like blue and they generally have a second tier of tools you can upgrade too.
They have an incredible family of tools. It was an easy decision for me
Awesome video. The only point I would make on buying used Delta equipment is to stick with the older (made In USA) models. There is a HUUUUGE difference in quality between them and their newer big box/ homeowner cheesy versions. I regularly see older Delta Unisaws, or Contractor saws on FB or CL for less than the cost of the hybrid Delta saw you pictured. Many of the older saws can also run on 110 volts, which is a consideration for many garage shops without 220v power.
I bought a used Delta Contractor saw and spent considerable time tuning it and polishing the cast iron top. With a quality blade, I can get cuts every bit as good as your Sawstop. Just my $.02.
Those unisaws are fantastic. Can't go wrong with them
I bought cheap in the beginning while learning and had to replace all the Ryobi stuff years ago. Miter saw was good but drills, circular saw and table saw were pretty poor quality and didn't last long. DeWalt, Bosch and Milwaukee brands have been good for remodels and rental house stuff. Definitely worth it imo. And the cordless advice was spot on.
The DeWalt tablesaw has been my affordable favorite for a long damn time now. The first feature that stood out was the tunable fence that stays square tp the table and parallel to the blade (for awhile). Most other saws at that price point, you have to parallel and lock the front and back of the fence individually and double check everytime you move it.... I only check the DeWalt every couple of months to see if it needs retuning.
I'm sure the DeWalt table saw is very nice, but there is only one table saw suitable for a beginner and that is a SawStop and the cost is irrelevant as its dwarfed by the possible cost of having one's fingers re-attached. Now that SawStop makes a $895 model, the extra cost is even modest now.
I have a bosch Table saw and that is fantastic. I have heard nothing but good things about the Dewalt though, yet the Bosch was a few hundred AUD cheaper than the Dewalt.
@@normanklein3155 nonsense, someone with a healthy regard for safety can use any table saw of reputable brand. SawStop is of course ideal, and I would posit that its greatest strength is in fighting complacency with safety, which tends to plague professionals and long-time amateurs the most.
@@normanklein3155 Or just follow common sense safety measures instead of watching careless TH-camrs. My personal safety must is a riving knife as this will greatly help with stopping kickbacks and always using a push stick instead of putting your fingers anywhere near the blade.
This is great stuff! I have always said, "You soon forget how much you paid, but you will always remember the quality." Still, if the amount you think you need to spend is more than you can afford, you never get the tool. Nice of you to put the whole thing is perspective! Keep up the good work.
I have been a carpenter for more than 40 years and to this day i do not have a workshop as clean as yours. there is an age old saying a tradesman never blames his tools you can get the best that money can buy it does not mean your going to get a better result because you can also buy the cheapest and get the best results. spent most my life buying expensive tools but found over the years my old tools serve me better. I almost do everything by hand now because the results are easier to achieve. using an handsaw gives you sense that you have achieved the real skill of wood working. an hand plane give great satisfaction and at the same time keeps you fit. but to each there own.
Great advice video for beginners. I would also add to go with a 8 hole D/A sander VS a 5 hole version. You will get much better dust collection from it and dust collection is also key for abrasive longevity. Your sandpaper will last twice as long with good dust collection.
8 hole and sand nets, pure heaven
You've got another sub but I wouldn't rule out Skil as an option for Table saw. I have the Skilsaw SPT99-12 and while I am new to woodworking this thing has handled everything i asked it to. Also has the rack and pinion fence which is so nice of a feature
hey if it works it works! thanks for the sub
I have a lumberjack 10" table saw mounted on a Dewalt table saw trolley. Used it for four years on job sites, as long as the blade is kept fresh and 40T or more when doing finish or trim work.
As for the router it is only the Triton for me and the work table is hard to beat
I have the Skilsaw SPT99-12 as well.
I have no complaints. After initial setup, it runs like a dream and those big wheels make it so comfortable to move around.
I don't own the Skil SPT99-12, Skil's heavy duty 10 in worm drive saw, but it was my top choice for jobsite saws before I decided to get a contractor saw instead. It does well in independent performance tests against saws like the DeWalt. It has a rack and pinion fence system similar to Dewalt's. It'll do dados up to 1/2". And its mobile cart sets the bar for all other mobile carts. Those large wheels are great for stairs and rough terrain on the jobsite.
Almost every single power tool I own was given to me by a relative. I have a 70 year old McGraw/Edison Circular Saw that is still in perfect working condition despite seeing tons of use, and a 40 year old Sears/Craftsman Miter Saw that doesn’t have all the bells and whistles of a newer tool. But it still does it’s job. In fact, the only new power tool I bought myself was a Milwaukee M12 impact driver set, when I bought my home, last year. I appreciate videos like this, because it’s not often that I do spend money on power tools. But with the prospect of turning my garage into a hobby shop, I may eventually need to.
This was great. I actually got many of those you recommended for beginners. Especially the table saw. That one I got on sale to boot. Then I got divorced & she pawned my tools while I was at an appointment with the VA. Saw my favorite speakers in a pawnshop too.
Holy shit thats crazy
You're still better off without the tools and wife! HAHA
Time to upgrade? 😅
Another trick if you don’t have the best saw is buying a really good blade makes a huge difference.
I really appreciate your channel brotha. I found it today while looking for information on beginner woodworking. My 8yo son and I started a little side hustle selling walking sticks made of wild guava wood, Ohia, and assorted other woods at farmer’s markets. It’s been extremely helpful in teaching me some basics because I have zero woodworking experience. I am absolutely hooked now though and I look forward to working with wood every single day! Thanks again!
That is awesome! I look forward to building with my kids when they get old enough. Good luck
Kobalt has a very good miter saw for the money. Old Delta saws are also good. Anything with rail forward design or a telescoping arm like that Bosch, can be mounted to a bench with less backspace. That helps a lot.
Battery powered tools, Makita and Milwaukee are great and available, Dewalt is up there but just a bit harder to get the top end.
After that sponsorship plug I had to subscribe. Also a huge Star Wars fan.
Same, that hook caught me good
Same here! And the Death Star on the wall.
+1 the channel plug was beautiful
Thank you Gaston! Welcome Aboard
Same here.
Enjoyable channel. Happy to have stumbled across it. Common sense advice. My situation is a higher budget but limited space. Mine is a one car garage that I've done everything from transmission work, engine repair to furniture. I don't have space for large immovable tools. Everything has got to roll. And nothing can dominate space. Glad to hear your advice regarding contractor table saws and dust collection. A mask! That's what I use. High portable and high filtration. I do use a small shop vac for hand sanders and such. The bigger Ridgid shop vac pulls on the router stand and my BT3000 table saw. I can not justify the expense and space needed for a large filtration unit. Regarding dust escaping from bag units just have a unit in another space or exhaust outside.
Appreciate your time.
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
I had a dewalt contractor table saw for years. it was perfectly serviceable and capable of accurate cuts…..However, moving to a powermatic 3 hp table saw i realized just how much more safe a heavy machine was. so much more stable when cutting sheet goods and ripping long material. the blade guard on the powermatic is actually functional without getting in my way unlike the dewalt and i left it one the machine. If i was building a shop from scratch I would head straight for the higher end cabinet saw and go for cheaper options in other areas. just my two cents.
fair statement
I can use mine just perfectly fine, I love my table saw and the various sleds and jigs I’ve built for it. Easily serviceable and simple to use.
I can highly recommend the Dust Deputy. It collects a lot more than just shavings and large particles, at least when hooked up to a decent shop vac. Last year, I had to cut into a tile floor to repair a plumbing leak under our bathroom. That meant cutting through grout lines, and through a 4" concrete slab. In the past I'd have put on a respirator, taped the door shut, and resigned myself to the room being completely buried in talcum-powder-fine dust. This time I had almost no mess, except directly around the cuts. And when I opened the shop vac, it only had a light dusting on the filter. Everything else was in the bucket under the Dust Deputy....
“Sometimes it’s the archer and not the arrow” Love that life lesson right there. 😂
Thanks for this great video. Great advice.
As a longtime woodworke, I have an assortment of really great tools, Jet, Laguna etc. And what I thought may be a mistake buying was the Ryobi cordless 18 and 23 gauge. Best cheapest toolsI've bought. Outperformed the Makita 23 gauge easily. I still can't believe how well they've been working going on three years now. Amazing how many great pieces I've made, and don't own any Festool.
I think Festool is WAY overpriced in my opinion. A Bosch or DeWalt miter saw is plenty for just about anyone: hobbyist, pro or anything in between. One major issue that most modern miter saws have is that their fences are secured with countersunk bolts, so you can't make fine adjustments and have them stay. All that I know of except for Hitachi and DeWalt have this drawback (yes, even the Festool!). I was able to get around this with my DeWalt aftermarket screws and washers, but I want the security of the countersunk screws combined with a perfectly straight fence, so I'm gonna have to build a custom one at some point.
I am now 70. After 25 years of various iterations of a workshop, I have settled on my preferred setup. Crucial is a planer/thicknesser with a spiral head. If you get grain direction right, you can start sanding at 120 grit. This & a quality 14" bandsaw make up the core of my shop. I also have an old Dewalt chop saw with a quality blade that has worked flawlessly. A table saw is essential & I settled, for various reasons on the Dewalt job site saw; noisy but has never failed me & is capable of serious hard work & is reasonably accurate. I have also embraced the multi function table & the track saw. The track saw will revolutionise woodworking in the same way that the router table has.
Alright, John, you hooked me in. Subscribed to your channel today and slapped that notification bell so I will be checking out your next video. After watching most of your videos, you piqued my interest. I like the humor and down-to-earth approach. And yes, the star wars references. Nuff said. Thanks for the content and looking forward to watching your channel grow John!
Thank you for the kind words Ron. Hope to see you on future videos
Factory reconditioned tools from a good manufacturer, when available, provide really good value and generally have the same warranty as new.
Great point!
There are no dumb channels, only dumb comments. I very much agree with your school of thought here, it is nice to hear a real woodworker say this. Thanks for posting
Good video. I do have a mix of brands, as I just picked up the best tool, for me, for the job. Makita, Milwaukee, Craftsman, Hitachi, Dewault, etc.
I did go with the Ryobi battery powered tools. There are cheap models of the tools, as well as higher end ones - and a VERY WIDE variety of tools. Been using them for years with zero issues. The only cheap one I use is the reciprocating saw. I keep waiting for it to die so I can get a better one, but the darn thing won't give up...
I like your sponsor by the way!
That sponsor is a real hard ass
I enjoyed your video you have some great advice. I will say, that Skil, at least not the TS6307-00, doesn't deserve to be lumped in with HF and Ryobi as far as table saws. I own it and its a great saw similar to the dewalt. It's powerful, accurate, rack and pinon fence, accepts dado stack up to 5/8" and has integrated stand for $350, great value saw.
I agree the Skil 6307 has been good for me and was using a 3/4” dado stack in it this last weekend. I don’t know if it’s significantly better/worse than a Dewalt, but I haven’t had any problems after a year of using it.
Yeah, I love my Skil saw! There's a handful of TH-camrs that rank that saw almost equal to the Dewalt equivalent.
I bought a Compact Circular Saw and an Oscillating multi tool to take apart a wood crib and used them to build a dog crate patio table, so my puppy can chill outside and be discrete about it. Worked pretty well. Not gonna lie, the Oscillator is the greatest power tool of my life. Especially for a woman whole doesn't understand why there are so many power tools that only do one thing. They need more all in one tools I think lol
Just found this and it's solid advice. Love that you gave that shout out to Tamar. Everytime someone tells me "you need a sawstop" I point them to her channel to shut them up. I have that exact DeWalt Table saw and it has been bullet proof for the last 6 years for me. Great video.
Glad you liked the video. Tamar is the best
Awesome video, agree with everything you said and love the "Ryobi and up" thought!
Thanks dude
About ten or twelve years old my kids bought me a kit of Ryobi battery operated tools. I do remodeling and found these to be very functional. They all still work. Also, for a miter saw 10 inch makes sense because the blades are much cheaper than 12". I go through a lot of blades.
You should think about getting them sharpened. This could save you some money.
@@williamweatherall8333 how do you sharpen blades?
@@jeancarlodelaluz6415 a local sharpening place will do it
I was actually looking to buy a jointer and I would consider myself an intermediate craftsman but I’ve always just used a router and the straight edge to join two pieces of lumber together and it’s worked great for me so thank you for this video!
Glad you liked it!
A jointer is definitely a luxury you can live without. I've been woodworking for over 10 years and do it for a living, and I still don't own one. My shop doesn't have the room for one, and I've learned to live without.
I went with Milwaukee because all their tools, including their yard tools, use the same batteries and their high end tools have brushless motors. Particularly love their table saw, circular saw, hedge trimmer (a bit heavy but cuts like a hot knife through butter), and their blower.
You could literally say the same about ryobi
@@AlbiWiedersberg
While Ryobi tools have improved in quality in recent years, a lot of reviews by tradespeople say to stay away from them, because while they're cheap, they're also cheaply made. I didn't choose Milwaukee only because of the interchangeable batteries and brushless motors (which Ryobi only came out with last year), I also chose Milwaukee for the quality. The tradespeople say to go for Milwaukee, Makita, or Dewalt and I think the tradespeople know what they're talking about.
@@Dr.TJ1 well the quality aspect makes sense to me
Why do you hate Ryobi? I am pretty happy with the tools I've bought so far, the ONE+ batteries fit into all their tools. I'm just curious why you hate them.
I was unaware I hated Ryobi. I think I said they are a suitable option for certain tools.
I love my Ryobi tools and Ryobi days are awesome to update batteries and get a free tool.
@@Lincolnstww Whats the downside? You mentioned it several times like it was junk comparable to Skil.
@@FoolyLiving I said it was a lesser quality tool, and I don't recommend it for a table saw because the fence is absolute junk. Fine for a miter saw and sander. You get what you pay for generally. Much like a Kia vs a BMW
I watch a lot of project farm and keep notes of all the stuff he tests so if I ever have occasion to buy something i'm better informed lol.
Can definitely vouch for the Dewalt table saw. I don't have a planer/thicknesser and have been using mine to dimension timber and then cleaning up with a hand plane and it is surprisingly accurate with a 40 tooth blade.
I *hate* my tablesaw with an utter passion. I'll use my miter saw and even jig saw to avoid using it if at all possible.
@@joejoslin7451 Is yours the Dewalt? Mine seems great for what is a saw designed for a job site. Unfortunately I only have an 8'x10' shed to work in, so my options are kinda limited. That said, I have managed to make some very nice things using this saw.
@@noire1001 Mine's a ShopSeries SS7202. It's designed poorly (too many things to describe and be succinct). Rough cuts *might* be ok for it, but even then I'll use circular or jig saw.
@@joejoslin7451 Mine is a "Benchtop" series sold at K-Mart when they closed a local store (2003?). Also bought at that time a 10" miter saw and drill press. The only thing that seemed to work "out of the box" was the drill press. Hated the miter saw and was skeptical of the table saw. After I saw videos on tuning the saws, then putting good blades on (though not great ones), I would have put both against most any other saw out there. Upgrade the miter saw to a Harbor Freight sliding miter saw. Same thing goes for it as well (though it's time to tune it again).
I've watched a ton of videos about recommended beginner woodworking tools. This is the first one that I've ever "liked" and "subscribed" to.
It's also the only one I've ever saved to refer back to later.
Keep up the great work! (And thanks for the straight-up honest info!!!)
Nice breakdown of tool recommendations... I refer to it often. Wish there was something on routers though
Thanks, Ill do a video on routers soon enough
In my shop, most of my tools are chorded. I have a couple of battery drill motors but I will take the chord anyway in my shop.
Corded gives you much more options and power and lower prices.
What kind of music can they play?
Very underrated response by M
@@mattwarrensocal NO rap
Don’t forget if you are hand or power sanding to frequently use the unclogger. I managed to do without the dangerous jointer for decades. I now have one but I don’t use it much. I would buy an edge sander if I were starting up. My most used power tools are circular saw, band saw,mitre saw, edge sander, pillar drill and cordless drill. Followed by planer or sanding thicknesser and bench morticer.
Definitely got to agree with the dewalt job site saw. It is awesome! Love that thing!!
As for the jointer….. I’ve got 2. One is a small ryobi that well works ok. The other is a makita attached to my planer. I built a roll away stand for it to make it easier to move around. It’s an 8 incher, and I have been able to run 6 footers off of it without adding any extra tables. It runs beautifully! Of course as you said a floor model would be even better but unfortunately I don’t have the space. I would say forget about the sixer and go with a portable 8” especially if you can get it as an attachment for your planer.
It is a great saw. Like you said on the jointer the biggest you can fit and afford is the way to go
I have one of the little Craftsman bench top jointers and love it. When used within its limitations it does exactly what I need. Most of what I need it for is in building bowl blanks between 8 and 12 inches, making that jointer the perfect size. If I’m building a table top I have different tools for that.
I think a lot of what to buy first and what is useful comes down to what you are going to use the tools for. If you are finishing your basement, installing new molding or some cabinets or shelving, maybe building a deck or a shed a miter saw is real handy. If you are building furniture perhaps not. But most beginner's cut their teeth on home improvements and fine woodworking comes much later. The other thing to be mindful of is how much you really expect to use a tool. I would like to have a big jointer but space is limited. So I opted for a good size band saw which I use frequently and work around having a small jointer since I rarely need one.
I'm with you on the 8" jointer. I started off with a 6" and almost immediately knew I needed a larger jointer. It's only 2" wider but it's 10 times the tool.
I also vote highly for the DeWalt DWE7491RS; it is really a great saw and, as you said, the fence is what sets it apart (including their odd but great little fence support bar). The only issue is their crazy miter slot, which defeats many/most featherboards and is sloppy for most miter gauges.
I don't understand why everyone loves the DeWalt fence system on their job site saw. While I thought that their telescoping fence rail was pretty nifty, that flimsy flip down faced fence more than defeats their rail's advantage. Also as someone that has been operating table saws for most of my life, I would have a hard time stepping backward in craftsmanship working with such a saw.
yeah nothing much wrong with it. if you want a 400kg cast iron thing then do so but this is portable so...
@@ancienttom97 WHAT are you talking about???? How does their flip down fence support in any way make them worse, not better??? If you don't like the little support, don't use it. But I have yet to see ANY other saw fence that extends out past the table but still offers support for long pieces.
As to your "I have a hard time stepping backwards", what does THAT have to do with THIS video, beyond apparent snobbery? Jeez.
@@ancienttom97 Its a portable jobsite saw. Certain limitations are to be expected. Its a nice tool.
My husband bought me my fist mitersaw about 15 years ago from Sears. Thought I would return it for what I wanted. Great gift. I have used it for so many things. Not just for things like quarter round. I even used it for cutting the plastic pipes when installing a new kitchen sink. You need really straight cuts for that. For copper you can find pipe cutters.
I also used it when rebuilding my balcony, as I could keep it on the lower deck instead of having to walk to the table saw in the garage for cuts. It was enough work going up and down stairs carrying lumber threw the house..
Bought my first table saw for installing laminate flooring in our old house. Did the entire main floor. Got a lot of use out of it over the years. Installed the floor at a friend's house as well.
Went more expensive for my second table saw.
I have had 4 sanders. The first owed me nothing. Cheapest one at the store. Sanded several pieces of furniture for refinishing, hand sanded 4 wood floors and the kitchen cupboards. Failed just before the kitchen was done.
Went with Dewalt for the second. Gone in just over a year. Friend convinced me I got a lemon. The second one barely lasted a year. Bought cheap one from Canadian Tire for my last one. Over 5 years now and still going.
My husband had a cheap cordless drill that we used for decades. When it went dead I bought him a Sears cordless drill. Waste of money. As was the next.
We now have 2 corded drills and an old cordless one we bought at a garage sale. It is working great, unlike the garbage ones out there now.
We also now have a drill press. Last years Christmas present. Not used often, but handy when needed.
Would love a wood plane. But just got a new wet tile saw, so I need to wait. Also want a table jig saw. They look much easier than the hand held.
I think people often get the new tools to fit a project. And everyone does different things. But brand name does not mean much anymore.
Really like your style and great advice! People may want to consider an alternative to the DeWalt table saw: the Grizzly 2-hp model g0869. Same rack & pinion fence plus soft-start, variable speed, and yes, it takes a dado stack. Extremely pleased with both the saw and the support.
Thank you
Every time I try to fix something or build something, my tools are sure to let me down, no matter how expensive they are.
sounds like you need to do some research into decent tools.. Indont have anything fancy and i use my tools literally every day. never let me down. ever. don't be a brand loyalist. Don't buy the brand new thing. buy stuff that's reviewed and works.
Lmao what tools do u use
@@orestracki6617 The best. You would think a hammer for example will not bend the nails but it does. Every time. The shop refused to accept them back telling me that people who are no good at making things always blame the tools.
Your obviously not using the best because I have no issues with any tools lol
@@roddyoccultis4266 lol I’m a broke college student buying dollarama tools and do just fine.. think this problems on you buddy
I believe that if a power tool is adjustable, you can improve performance not only by fine tuning the machine, but buying the best cutting blade you can afford. Years ago I started buying Forrest blades with dampers. 4.5 inch for my PC trim saw, 12 inch for my Dewalt SDC miter saw and 10 inch blades for my Delta cabinet TS. I mean multiple TS blades: rip, combination, custom top ground ATB, cross cut for plywood and man-made materials. Bought most of mine at trade shows at good discounts and clean and back to Forrest for retipping and sharpening. In 22 years have never replaced a Forrest blade.
Whew - Looks like I'll be able to go cheap with my Dutch Clog business I'm starting.
Danish Clog millionaire
Clogs are Dutch...
@@ezecheech Sounds to me like he's going to corner the market, then. After all, what better way to rule the place than to be the only one doing it?
@@willmorrison1022 Just got my patent for my Chinese Clogs, so all of that 1.4B people market is mine! (Insert Dr. Evil laugh)
@@jasonmartin7137 Aw, that's nothin'! I have a product that I KNOW no one else is making. When you build a lute, you scrape off the top wood around the edge so you can inlay what is called half binding around that edge. NO ONE makes a tool for this, specifically. I figured out how to make one, and I am WELL on the way to world domination and untold riches. Lord knows, I may even sell one or two a year!!! NO ONE will be able to stand in my way!
Good video, brother! I already got the bench top jointer, but I got it at auction for like $40. I'll save up for the used 6". Also, really glad you helped clear up the confusion on what saw to get to enjoy a decent fence. I was looking cabinet saw to replace the Craftsman 10" I got at a yard sale for $20, but maybe I don't need that... At least not until I build my timber frame shop! 😉
My Ryobi Table saw adjusts great. But what made me a Ryobi buyer and fan is their One + tools. My first Ryobi one+ drill Infound partially submerged in a bucket of water. After it dried it worked fairly well, I cleaned it up and oiled the chuck but the impressive thing was the life of the battery. I used that drill periodically for various small jobs and it lasted 6 months give or take without charging. I am very happy with my Ryobi tools.