I followed these instructions to the letter and it turned out fantastic. I was able to buy the same cupboards that are in my kitchen so it matches. My only option for a top was bamboo. Looks great! The only downside is how much the final project cost - I thought I'd save lots of money doing it myself. In the end, I only saved about 10-15% off commercial rolling islands. However, there was nothing out there that matched or would really work in my kitchen. So in the end, even though it was expensive (just over CDN $700), it's worth it as it looks great and holds a tremendous amount of stuff. Thanks to TOH for this video, the instructions are clear, simple to follow, and deliver a product just as nice (maybe nicer) than what is in the video.
Jim M if you are comparing what you made to a standard mass produced product it might not seem like what you made gave significant cost savings, but what you ended up with was custom built to fit your space and match your existing cabinets, and to have a contractor build that probably would have been over double what you spent. So be proud of what you accomplished and I hope you’re enjoying it 👍
i got one of the heavier duty carts with bamboo on top from sam's club, and had my granite guy cut a piece for the top when they did my counters. worked out great too, but this is probably cheaper, and i like the hidden storage
Very nice - I was thinking about making a full kitchen island rollable - e.g. 3' x7' with granite top. I figured a little trim to help hide the wheels and maybe a locking mechanism or decending capped mechanical screws.
same here sounds like we're here for the same idea I want a larger Island but I want it with a drop leaf also with granite top and three cupboards on each side two covers will open downwards to hold a garbage and a recycle bin
You guys make this project look easy, and economical. The mineral oil tip for the butcher block is nice, but I wonder if there would be an oily residue, if so is there another food safe option? Thanks for sharing!
From my experience, the surface will seem "oily" only for a little while after applying the oil (maybe 2 uses). Your food should be barely affected. It's generally the least involved finish for a cutting board. Many other people like to use beeswax (or a wax + mineral oil mixture), but that will have the same issue as mineral oil you're worried about. There's also salad bowl finishes, which do more sealing than the above two options: generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-topcoats/oil-based-wood-bowl-finish . But again, this is oil based, so you're not going to avoid this issue. You want your finishes to be oil based so that water from your food is repelled from the wood. Water otherwise would enter the wood, degrade the wood glue, and possibly crack it.
Quick question: when putting in the shims at the top, did you screw in the 5 shims in a pattern (3 on one side, two on the other) or did you screw into each shim from both sides?
I think the overhang on the sides of the doors ought to be a little more just so liquids don’t dribble off the cutting board and down the face of the doors.
I'd like to see this with the backs of the cabinets removed so it's continuous shelves. It'd allow for more space & easy storage of seldom used items like a toaster oven. Is there a good reason that wouldn't work?
What if I wanted an island with drawers, cupboards and have it longer (10ft) and wider (4ft) with a stone top. What would we have to purchase to achieve that?
Very nice. How would you build a pantry? Just shelves on the wall with a Door or a long box with shelves? My kitchen has very little storage and I want to build a pantry can you help me out with suggestions
Sauder makes several kinds of pantrys, easy to assemble, about $100.00, some, if not all available at Wal-Mart. They have other, cheaper ones too. Go to Wal Mart.com and type pantry in the search bar. I'm an experienced wood worker with a well equipped shop & the last time I needed a pantry that's where I went, never regretted it.
Love the info for an island on wheels, You said I could use any material for the top. I'm planning a 5' island with a with 10" overhang for seating on one side. Is it safe to use something as heavy as granite?
you could do it that way, but I'm thinking these are off-cuts from 3/4" plywood he used on the base or scrap he had lying around. To get a larger piece for the filler section on top, you'd probably have to buy a second 2' x 4' of 3/4" plywood.
You mean the top? Because the bottom is one solid piece of plywood. The small pieces glued to the top are just something stronger than the particle board to use to secure the butcher block.
I tore out a turntable cabinet and am going to replace it with a cabinet that fits under the shelf and rolls out to be an island. Also where the cooking pans are there is space above them and decided that putting a slide out top with a couple of quick attach legs for stability would give me a lot more counter space. I don't know why more houses don't use under countertop rolling drawers and shelves to add countertop space. It just makes sense. Stability to the countertop is created by dividers to the floor and building the bracing under the countertop like floor joists. A few 1" or 2" braces on end connected to the dividers should make the countertop sturdier than say a built in. This way you also have easy access to stuff at the back of the cabinet.
I have questions too LOL things like why aren't doorways and hallways wider so people can move in and out of houses easier I always assume it's due to saving space and greediness of the maker
They measure to the edge of the circular saw base, the difference between the Base and the kerf of the blade will be the difference between their measurement and the length of the worktop. if they were using a plunge saw they would have drawn the line on at 36inch.
So I bought all the Parts materials on the list and the carriage bolts are way too long the casters won't turn now I'm questioning the other parts so halfway through we quit. Got to check the parts and probably buy different ones tomorrow
Hello Good morning, congratulations for your videos, very good, if I lived there I would work with Mr; Because I am a professional residential painter. A hug!
I'm fixing my boat trailer. I need to drill a new hole for a bolt. Thing is at the head of the bolt and where the nut will screw on, the surface is at an angle. SO the Bolt and nut wont be flush with the surface its mating up with. any suggestions? and its gota be strong.
A thick washer, a stack of washers or an oversized nut filed or ground to the correct angle between the bolt head and the trailer member and at the other end between the nut & the trailer.
same yo although my house is decent sized with a decent sized kitchen but for some reason I only have one bitty cupboard for my food and one bitty cupboard for my dishes which is pretty lame because I have to have everything on my counters looking cluttered
On the opposite end of where the towel rack is I would of put a fold away extension of the same butcher block where it could be hinged so when the extension is folded down it will bide along the end but it could be moved into place so it would give you more room to work with if needed. The other thing that I would of done is installed some electrical outlets and a cord to plug the temporary island in so you can put some of those things like blenders etc underneath and when you need you just have to move the island into position and plug the one cord into the wall near where your working and use your appliances as needed and you get not just that one counter space but an extension. Now I know your going to say "the extension going to weigh extra when it's out"? I can solve that. On the same end that you have the handle/towel rack and it would have (2) Two heavy duty braces that would go up and on top of those two braces that would extend up from the corners of the cart/island you would have ether a closed cabinet or you would have tow open shelves where between the top of the butcher block and bottom of the small cabinets with a space of 18 Inches. The upper cabinet would be the same width of the island counter top. You could have doors on both sides of the upper cabinet so you can open the doors from over the island and the other set would open over the towel rack. This cupboard could be any height you want it but having it only about 18 to 26 inches would be the best if it is not a open shelve system. This will allow you to use your entire counter space but you get even more storage and under the shelve/cupboard area there could be some lights so the counter space can be illuminated to bring more light to your work space if needed. I would of hand a drawer that could of opened from both sides and below that I would of put cabinet doors so you could accessed both sides of the big lower cabinet. Other than that I like the island you built.
this is great but I got lost somewhere in the middle of your words LOL but instead of having a drop leaf on the end I would have a drop leaf on the side and have the extension thingies to fold it up and down
Awesome project, decided I was going to do this for my Wife. Priced it out on Lowes and it was just over $800 in 2023... I am now looking for cheaper options.
Building your own island with even the cheapest kitchen cabinets is going to be much more durable than the cardboard island Home Depot, Lowes, and Menards sell. Those things are complete junk
My guess is that the back of the cabinets weren't flush with the sides. They probably put them on top too but didn't mention it. You can see the gap at 2:42.
This is a great idea and fun/simple project but they cheated somehow on the sides. There is no way those two cabinets butted up so perfectly that the seam is completely gone on the sides. Either they re-paneled, veneered, or Tommy used some of his magic to make that seem completely disappear. Lol Great video nonetheless.
boon is correct. $300 is a fraction of what my brother had 2 pay a contractor 2 build an island probably not twice the size of that one that didnt move.
Where's the drawers? Islands should have them..... I built an island using two "salvaged" maple kitchen drawer base units, it was more work but turned out great.
+Danyal Ahmad you could easily get discounted cabinets from places like the ReStore Habitat for Humanity, even garage sales, Craigslist, ect. They don't have a budget, so it's easier just to but it all from the store. Or you could make a simple bookcase type build and slap wheels and a butcher block on it.
+Danyal Ahmad I was referring to my own typo in the second message and i was just pointing out that there was a way to make this build cheaper. I had done something similar in my garage with cabinets that I had found from the ReStore
Cliff, locking casters have toe activated levers. All you need to do is push the "up" side of the levers into the down position to lock or unlock them.
All of sudden I'm almost feeling lazy to build my own from scratch... unfortunately the big box cabinets are excessively canned that won't fit the concept I have in mind.... but still.........
What happened to, my buddy, Bob Villa?? He would have figured out that you could use the base cabinets and recess the wheels inside of the toe kick, hiding the wheels, giving you drawers or deep cabinet space. You could even modify the back toe kick to match the cabinet overhang in the front :) . If you're going to use Festool, use a screw depth limiting bit that assures a flush head with the cabinet interior screws, then screw covers to make a sanitary condition and the bottom. Just sayin. I agree with the other comment, unless you're getting a boatload of money from Home Depot and disclose it, i would never recommend the made in China poor quality cabinets.
This island has 1 structural flaw that is also often made in cheap diy kitchens: The added baseplate with casters only supports the bottom plate of the cabinets, but not the sides. Why is this a problem? All the weight of the countertop, shelves, pots and pans, doors... rests on those (unsupported) sides. The joint between the bottom and the sides is only designed to hold that bottom plate and a few pots from dropping out the bottom. Just like a cheap diy kitchen with badly engineered legs, it's only a matter of time before this island will start to fall apart, simply because of insufficient support.
+King JD Those prebuilt cabinets are designed to barely hold the weight of some cups, glasses and some cereal. The lower cabinets can hold heavier items solely because the sides are supported on all 4 corners. Notice how the bottom cabinet they showed at the beginning had extended sides that acts as a pedestal. The joined together backs that are also supported by the plate they added to the bottom will make the island stronger than just the 2 cabinets on their own, but relying on that only makes sense if both cabinets are fairly evenly loaded. It's simply bad practice and a sign of not thinking it trough or not caring about longevity to build it like this, even if it happens to survive some years of use.
I was thinking about that, too. like as soon as I put my cast iron set in there the whole thing will collapse around the base. What I did in my build was put that base plate in the bottom to fill the space, then glue and screw that to another larger base that supported the sides as well. I have it in my garage as a portable work station, and so far it's held up well.
+mercerjimmy You can't fit much in it, but if you have the inside loaded and then you bring home a load of groceries and sit it on top, or something similar, it could cause a problem. If you're buying big box store cabinets, they're cheaply made or really expensive. I made one for my garage but extended the base out to the walls and it holds up great. If it was going in my kitchen, I'd probably add trim to the sides to cover the exposed plywood of the base. This build will *probably* be ok for most uses, but overkill is over effective so I'm going to build it like I expect a 300 lb babt elephant to sit on it
+Kendra Gray Couldn't say it any better! Groceries can be very heavy and because of that they often aren't put down very gently, causing a shock. Upper cabinets aren't designed to hold much weight, let alone put a substantial load in 1 big shock on top of them. The only reason lower cabinets and counters hold so much more weight is because of the pedestal/legs supporting what holds the most load: the sides. Don't forget we're talking about cheap particle board, 5/8" in thickness after stripping the melamine, not custom built 3/4" plywood cabinets with perfect fit joins full of heavy duty glue.
I followed these instructions to the letter and it turned out fantastic. I was able to buy the same cupboards that are in my kitchen so it matches. My only option for a top was bamboo. Looks great! The only downside is how much the final project cost - I thought I'd save lots of money doing it myself. In the end, I only saved about 10-15% off commercial rolling islands. However, there was nothing out there that matched or would really work in my kitchen. So in the end, even though it was expensive (just over CDN $700), it's worth it as it looks great and holds a tremendous amount of stuff. Thanks to TOH for this video, the instructions are clear, simple to follow, and deliver a product just as nice (maybe nicer) than what is in the video.
Jim M if you are comparing what you made to a standard mass produced product it might not seem like what you made gave significant cost savings, but what you ended up with was custom built to fit your space and match your existing cabinets, and to have a contractor build that probably would have been over double what you spent. So be proud of what you accomplished and I hope you’re enjoying it 👍
This is just the tutorial I was looking for! Thank you!
Sooooo simple, modern, and so much storage hidden away. Love it 👍
Wow great idea so easy and simple I’m gonna make it this weekend!!
Thank you! I have never seen anything like this or this simple - I love it!!
That is a really neat idea, thanks for sharing.
Thank you ,sir! Appreciate your projects, as they seem more doable to me and don't require so much to be made from raw lumber...
awesome can.t wait to try it out. pretty simple build and it looks great. i loved it
I absolutely love this old house videos.
i got one of the heavier duty carts with bamboo on top from sam's club, and had my granite guy cut a piece for the top when they did my counters. worked out great too, but this is probably cheaper, and i like the hidden storage
I like the idear of putting it in the carner
Lol, Boston accent
I wanna use it as a serva for a patty
carnah'
+lostintime86 Haha! Love it..
good for outdoor bbq serving
Thanks for sharing. Just my kind of project - functional, simple and quick
That is awesome!!! Very clever and easy to do.
Beautifully built 👍
Very nice - I was thinking about making a full kitchen island rollable - e.g. 3' x7' with granite top. I figured a little trim to help hide the wheels and maybe a locking mechanism or decending capped mechanical screws.
same here sounds like we're here for the same idea I want a larger Island but I want it with a drop leaf also with granite top and three cupboards on each side two covers will open downwards to hold a garbage and a recycle bin
Love this Idea. never thought about using cabinets
great build guys. really enjoyed that.
Excellent tip.
You guys make this project look easy, and economical. The mineral oil tip for the butcher block is nice, but I wonder if there would be an oily residue, if so is there another food safe option? Thanks for sharing!
From my experience, the surface will seem "oily" only for a little while after applying the oil (maybe 2 uses). Your food should be barely affected.
It's generally the least involved finish for a cutting board. Many other people like to use beeswax (or a wax + mineral oil mixture), but that will have the same issue as mineral oil you're worried about.
There's also salad bowl finishes, which do more sealing than the above two options: generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-topcoats/oil-based-wood-bowl-finish .
But again, this is oil based, so you're not going to avoid this issue. You want your finishes to be oil based so that water from your food is repelled from the wood. Water otherwise would enter the wood, degrade the wood glue, and possibly crack it.
apprentice58 +
These options sound great. Thanks for the tips!
This is straight brilliant. Brilliant!!
Best time to do this, is when you're renovating your kitchen. Just order 2 extra 30" upper cabinets and everything will be cohesive.
If only the Home Depot in my neighborhood was this organized lol
preach LOL
This is a great idea! I've been brain storming how to make a one of these. Now if I only had someone to help me build one. Thanks guys.
same yo same I've been drawing out a blueprint the last few days coming up with my design and I found this video which helps guide me for what I want
Great, fun, useful project!!
I'm going to give it a try...👍🏽👍🏽😉
Good Idea Love how you did this
love this project - great idea!
Would love to do similar but have a drop leaf round top. I qant it to be. Hogh top dining table too.
Also how much over hang could two 30 inch cabinets support?
I would love a 48 inch wide tabletop with two 9 inch drop leafs
Great idea
Awesome video. What size screws did you use?
I want that, so fantastic!
Quick question: when putting in the shims at the top, did you screw in the 5 shims in a pattern (3 on one side, two on the other) or did you screw into each shim from both sides?
Is the maximum size when using quartz as a countertop for mobile islands as it is heavy ?
I think the overhang on the sides of the doors ought to be a little more just so liquids don’t dribble off the cutting board and down the face of the doors.
just what i was looking for. thanx!
the cabinets that I can get that will be an exact match to my existing dont have the upper and lower lip. Will that cause an issue constructing this?
Any tips on cutting the overhang off of a floor cabinet?
Outstanding video....
Hey Tom how much did it cost to make that movable kitchen storage table?
I'd like to see this with the backs of the cabinets removed so it's continuous shelves. It'd allow for more space & easy storage of seldom used items like a toaster oven. Is there a good reason that wouldn't work?
Bravo!
Love it
What if I wanted an island with drawers, cupboards and have it longer (10ft) and wider (4ft) with a stone top. What would we have to purchase to achieve that?
Very nice. How would you build a pantry? Just shelves on the wall with a Door or a long box with shelves? My kitchen has very little storage and I want to build a pantry can you help me out with suggestions
like a walk thru pantry? that would be cool
Sauder makes several kinds of pantrys, easy to assemble, about $100.00, some, if not all available at Wal-Mart.
They have other, cheaper ones too. Go to Wal Mart.com and type pantry in the search bar.
I'm an experienced wood worker with a well equipped shop & the last time I needed a pantry that's where I went, never regretted it.
Love the info for an island on wheels, You said I could use any material for the top. I'm planning a 5' island with a with 10" overhang for seating on one side. Is it safe to use something as heavy as granite?
can the butcher block top be purchased at the same place as the rest of the materials...say home depote or lowes
I like you job, is ver y nice hobby
Brilliant. I will build and top with granite. (why do I find myself repeating, draw, carner, taommy, etc) after watching these vids?
adorei a ideia
what language is this your speaking it looks beautiful typed out
@@lulugust8140 português
Team work
Subscribed 😀
5:05 what is the purpose of putting all of those smaller pieces in the bottom why not just one big one that fits on each side
you could do it that way, but I'm thinking these are off-cuts from 3/4" plywood he used on the base or scrap he had lying around. To get a larger piece for the filler section on top, you'd probably have to buy a second 2' x 4' of 3/4" plywood.
You mean the top? Because the bottom is one solid piece of plywood. The small pieces glued to the top are just something stronger than the particle board to use to secure the butcher block.
I tore out a turntable cabinet and am going to replace it with a cabinet that fits under the shelf and rolls out to be an island.
Also where the cooking pans are there is space above them and decided that putting a slide out top with a couple of quick attach legs for stability would give me a lot more counter space.
I don't know why more houses don't use under countertop rolling drawers and shelves to add countertop space. It just makes sense.
Stability to the countertop is created by dividers to the floor and building the bracing under the countertop like floor joists. A few 1" or 2" braces on end connected to the dividers should make the countertop sturdier than say a built in.
This way you also have easy access to stuff at the back of the cabinet.
I have questions too LOL things like why aren't doorways and hallways wider so people can move in and out of houses easier I always assume it's due to saving space and greediness of the maker
I dig it, however cabinets can get expensive!
This is MUCH cheaper than the cardboard bullshit you can buy at any big box store sold as a kitchen island.
Look for curb alerts or CL and paint them
@@debbvideo can you explain what curb alerts and cl is
Nice
amazing im going to make one
Can I redo my 3 laundry basket cart into a kitchen island w/ a marble top for rolling bake goods.
muy buena .idea
is it me or do they measure less than 36"?
They measure to the edge of the circular saw base, the difference between the Base and the kerf of the blade will be the difference between their measurement and the length of the worktop. if they were using a plunge saw they would have drawn the line on at 36inch.
They had to adjust for the base plate of the circular saw.
Yes they measured 35". But they don't cut on 35' instead they clamp a piece of board as a guide for saw. So cut was just at 36"
now it makes sense, thank you! I paused the video and said "wtf, why is he at 34 5/8?"
Chris H. Same
So I bought all the Parts materials on the list and the carriage bolts are way too long the casters won't turn now I'm questioning the other parts so halfway through we quit. Got to check the parts and probably buy different ones tomorrow
He marked at 35 because he had a inch to his blade
nice
Hello Good morning, congratulations for your videos, very good, if I lived there I would work with Mr; Because I am a professional residential painter. A hug!
It's awfully potboiler done work! Money to the wind!
Muito bom!!
i like it
I'm fixing my boat trailer. I need to drill a new hole for a bolt. Thing is at the head of the bolt and where the nut will screw on, the surface is at an angle. SO the Bolt and nut wont be flush with the surface its mating up with. any suggestions? and its gota be strong.
A thick washer, a stack of washers or an oversized nut filed or ground to the correct angle between the bolt head and the trailer member and at the other end between the nut & the trailer.
Question, is there a way to use stock drawer cabinet with this amazing project ?
Could you make a video tutorial on this.
😊
this is what I'm also looking for as I also want to have a few drawers along with cabinets
This is my next project. I like my house, but it's very small and I have very little cabinet and counter space. This would do nicely.
same yo although my house is decent sized with a decent sized kitchen but for some reason I only have one bitty cupboard for my food and one bitty cupboard for my dishes which is pretty lame because I have to have everything on my counters looking cluttered
you can also use vegetable/olive oil as a finish. works just as good if not better
Definitely do NOT do this to maintain butcher block. Those oils can go rancid
On the opposite end of where the towel rack is I would of put a fold away extension of the same butcher block where it could be hinged so when the extension is folded down it will bide along the end but it could be moved into place so it would give you more room to work with if needed. The other thing that I would of done is installed some electrical outlets and a cord to plug the temporary island in so you can put some of those things like blenders etc underneath and when you need you just have to move the island into position and plug the one cord into the wall near where your working and use your appliances as needed and you get not just that one counter space but an extension. Now I know your going to say "the extension going to weigh extra when it's out"? I can solve that. On the same end that you have the handle/towel rack and it would have (2) Two heavy duty braces that would go up and on top of those two braces that would extend up from the corners of the cart/island you would have ether a closed cabinet or you would have tow open shelves where between the top of the butcher block and bottom of the small cabinets with a space of 18 Inches. The upper cabinet would be the same width of the island counter top. You could have doors on both sides of the upper cabinet so you can open the doors from over the island and the other set would open over the towel rack. This cupboard could be any height you want it but having it only about 18 to 26 inches would be the best if it is not a open shelve system. This will allow you to use your entire counter space but you get even more storage and under the shelve/cupboard area there could be some lights so the counter space can be illuminated to bring more light to your work space if needed. I would of hand a drawer that could of opened from both sides and below that I would of put cabinet doors so you could accessed both sides of the big lower cabinet.
Other than that I like the island you built.
this is great but I got lost somewhere in the middle of your words LOL but instead of having a drop leaf on the end I would have a drop leaf on the side and have the extension thingies to fold it up and down
Awesome project, decided I was going to do this for my Wife. Priced it out on Lowes and it was just over $800 in 2023... I am now looking for cheaper options.
I would paint the sides with an elastic paint to fill in the ugly line on the sides.
illuminati could always add a nice piece of trim
I gotta figure out how to make this fit under a diy table
Eh. I'm building stuff to avoid the poor quality cabinets of the big box stores. Neat idea though.
I'd do this project if I already had that cabinets, like found them in the trash or somewhere.
Building your own island with even the cheapest kitchen cabinets is going to be much more durable than the cardboard island Home Depot, Lowes, and Menards sell. Those things are complete junk
@@Aplexity That's just most furniture. Made over seas with particle board.
Did he measure a little under 35'' at 5:44 when they said they would cut 36''?
The difference was to allow for the distance from the edge of the saw to the blade when he ran it along the straight edge.
Less expensive and easier: start from scratch!
Termite concern here in HI. What are materials options? My ply shelves are coming out with all termite houses.
Why did you use shims?..
My guess is that the back of the cabinets weren't flush with the sides. They probably put them on top too but didn't mention it. You can see the gap at 2:42.
The shims are to prevent the backs of the cabinets from bowing towards each other
I'm great at carpentry except for the measuring part.
This is a great idea and fun/simple project but they cheated somehow on the sides. There is no way those two cabinets butted up so perfectly that the seam is completely gone on the sides. Either they re-paneled, veneered, or Tommy used some of his magic to make that seem completely disappear. Lol Great video nonetheless.
The seam is still there 06:40 it's just hard to notice from a distance.
I wondered the same thing but I think the seam is there they may have leveled it better or sand it down
Would have preferred to seen this installed with plinths and a braking system for the wheels which could be accessed with the plinths in place.
boon is correct. $300 is a fraction of what my brother had 2 pay a contractor 2 build an island probably not twice the size of that one that didnt move.
How to fix a loose and wobbly vinyl railing?
Where's the drawers? Islands should have them..... I built an island using two "salvaged" maple kitchen drawer base units, it was more work but turned out great.
Come make one for me!
osm
4:15 I KNEW IT WOULD HAPPEN. KEVIN JUST SCREWED IT UP! HAHAHAHAHA
Man at 1:08 in black T and empty cart is a plant.
It's a really good idea but it cost just as much to buy than to build. Those cabinets cost $90 each. To build this it would cost $225-300!
And that's how much it would cost to buy!
+Danyal Ahmad you could easily get discounted cabinets from places like the ReStore Habitat for Humanity, even garage sales, Craigslist, ect. They don't have a budget, so it's easier just to but it all from the store. Or you could make a simple bookcase type build and slap wheels and a butcher block on it.
*buy it from the store
+Kendra Gray I'm not a complete idiot. I was referring to Home Depot prices, which was (probably still is) a store the last time I checked.
+Danyal Ahmad I was referring to my own typo in the second message and i was just pointing out that there was a way to make this build cheaper. I had done something similar in my garage with cabinets that I had found from the ReStore
How did the wheels lock, I don't wanna chase this unit around kitchen.
Cliff, locking casters have toe activated levers. All you need to do is push the "up" side of the levers into the down position to lock or unlock them.
Cliff Carlo .
so you can chase it all around the kitchen! ha ha ha ha
All of sudden I'm almost feeling lazy to build my own from scratch... unfortunately the big box cabinets are excessively canned that won't fit the concept I have in mind.... but still.........
What happened to, my buddy, Bob Villa?? He would have figured out that you could use the base cabinets and recess the wheels inside of the toe kick, hiding the wheels, giving you drawers or deep cabinet space. You could even modify the back toe kick to match the cabinet overhang in the front :) . If you're going to use Festool, use a screw depth limiting bit that assures a flush head with the cabinet interior screws, then screw covers to make a sanitary condition and the bottom. Just sayin. I agree with the other comment, unless you're getting a boatload of money from Home Depot and disclose it, i would never recommend the made in China poor quality cabinets.
why did they use drywall screws and not wood screws?
Reupload? I saw this same video from you guys months ago.
And you watched it again... either you must have liked it, or you're an idiot
+MKRM27 same title, same thumbnail, same time count. I'm not an idiot.
lol
Anyone noticed Kevin marked the butcher butcher block at 34 1/16
Eric Brown Jr they did that for the track of the saw. that way the saw blade itself is at 36" so the final cut is 36"
I think the overhang on the top could have been more like 3" or more
I like the part where Tom used a simple straight edge instead of a $1,000 festool track saw for the cut.
This island has 1 structural flaw that is also often made in cheap diy kitchens: The added baseplate with casters only supports the bottom plate of the cabinets, but not the sides.
Why is this a problem? All the weight of the countertop, shelves, pots and pans, doors... rests on those (unsupported) sides. The joint between the bottom and the sides is only designed to hold that bottom plate and a few pots from dropping out the bottom.
Just like a cheap diy kitchen with badly engineered legs, it's only a matter of time before this island will start to fall apart, simply because of insufficient support.
+King JD Those prebuilt cabinets are designed to barely hold the weight of some cups, glasses and some cereal. The lower cabinets can hold heavier items solely because the sides are supported on all 4 corners.
Notice how the bottom cabinet they showed at the beginning had extended sides that acts as a pedestal.
The joined together backs that are also supported by the plate they added to the bottom will make the island stronger than just the 2 cabinets on their own, but relying on that only makes sense if both cabinets are fairly evenly loaded.
It's simply bad practice and a sign of not thinking it trough or not caring about longevity to build it like this, even if it happens to survive some years of use.
I was thinking about that, too. like as soon as I put my cast iron set in there the whole thing will collapse around the base. What I did in my build was put that base plate in the bottom to fill the space, then glue and screw that to another larger base that supported the sides as well. I have it in my garage as a portable work station, and so far it's held up well.
+Kendra Gray Exactly!
+mercerjimmy You can't fit much in it, but if you have the inside loaded and then you bring home a load of groceries and sit it on top, or something similar, it could cause a problem. If you're buying big box store cabinets, they're cheaply made or really expensive. I made one for my garage but extended the base out to the walls and it holds up great. If it was going in my kitchen, I'd probably add trim to the sides to cover the exposed plywood of the base. This build will *probably* be ok for most uses, but overkill is over effective so I'm going to build it like I expect a 300 lb babt elephant to sit on it
+Kendra Gray Couldn't say it any better!
Groceries can be very heavy and because of that they often aren't put down very gently, causing a shock. Upper cabinets aren't designed to hold much weight, let alone put a substantial load in 1 big shock on top of them.
The only reason lower cabinets and counters hold so much more weight is because of the pedestal/legs supporting what holds the most load: the sides.
Don't forget we're talking about cheap particle board, 5/8" in thickness after stripping the melamine, not custom built 3/4" plywood cabinets with perfect fit joins full of heavy duty glue.
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟❤