The Single Most Misused Item In The World Of Cars
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- The solderless wiring connector is one of the true miracles of the modern age. Everybody uses them but very few actually use them correctly. Here's what you need to know.
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Also stagger your connections if you're doing multiple wires in the same loom. That way you don't have a giant pile of connectors. If they're staggered evenly it is easier to hide in a loom
A bonus to staggering is if two connections do fail, the wires will not short across each other. If all of your connections are in the same position in a set of wires, in the event of failure they can all contact one another. If not in a plastic loom there is still still a chance of a wire contacting ground in the event of a failure.
EXCELLENT advice and actually a related point is to make sure you have enough slack to A) prevent issues from stressed wires and vibration and B) to make two repairs "in the field", or in my case, in a gutter full of snow melt by the side of the road in Boston at 3 am. Don't ask. But making a "service loop" is a great advantage if you're no good at stretching wires to make them longer. So far, nobody has successfully done that.
A 'Snake swallowed a Gopher" look? I use to splice telephone cables and you had to stagger the connectors if you wanted the splice to fit in the splice case.
You can actually splice zip cord (ac lamp cord) without individually insulating the conductors just by staggering and covering the whole thing with shrink. Doing that gives you a beautiful, visually clean splice.
Right on
I use marine grade shrink tubing. It has an adhesive inside that seal out moisture.
M23053/4 adhesive lined
I prefer that shrink tubing as well plus i prefer uninsulated crimps and I double crimp them to keep diameter down on the wire if I don't have the soder shrink connectors available those things are awesome slide it on twist your 2 wires together slide it over and using your heat gun shrink it , it soders and seals all in one
That, and on the rare occasion where I only have dry shrink, I'll chop up some hot-melt glue and stuff it inside before shrinking.
You beat me to it Gary. I’m a marine mechanic, but use that shrink tubing on everything.
That heat shrink with glue in it is amazing!!
There's nothing more permanent than a temporary repair
lol ain't that the truth.
That's my line pal lol
Yea, like a mechanics car or an electricians home wiring.
Ain't that the truth. Some of my "temporary fixes" have lasted 20 years.
@@altpotus6913 every mechanics mantra, "I'll come back to it later when I have more time"
I cant count how many customers ive had show up with trailer wiring crimped together under the bumper with no shrink tubing to protect the joints. Canadian winters are brutal and ice build up alone can rip the wire joints apart.
My rule is under the car always gets soldered and shrink wrapped, inside the car can have solderless connectors.
Sadly they probably paid a "professional" to do that. Our company mechanic has worked on antique shit in the bush you never heard of, excellent welder, excellent at diagnosing and fixing hydraulic systems, can fix anything mechanical. Don't let him change a headlight pigtail though or it'll quit in a week and high beam will be low beam prior to it failing. Electrical is like diesels, a minority seem to be good at it. I'm not trying to be a know-it-all but used to be a 310T and electrical was my thang. I let my licence go and drive tow truck now. I just take the driveshaft off now lol
Here in Michigan too. I usually see it coming from a U-Haul hitch installer or some other hitches only installers
Se
When I was 18 working at auto zone, I watched a guy strip a wire with his teeth and split a tooth in half. Haven’t stripped a wire with my teeth since then, just thinking about it gives me the creeps 😆
Watching him do it right now made MY teeth hurt. lol
Man, I used to strip wire with my teeth all the time. Never knew something like that would happen. I knew it wasn't good for you, but that's pretty extreme.
Use a steak kniife
Ouch. I'm an electrician, must admit I have done this. Gotta be something far wrong before you haul a tooth to bits😁
Not best practice though.
I always use my two front teeth, not the side teeth. Which tooth did your guy use?
Never use a flat crimp, They will allow the wire to pull out. I use an electricians pliers meant to crimp bare wire it puts a very positive crimp on the wire
If you want a smaller, neater crimp, you can just use heatshrink and uninsulated crimps.
I mean, I don't, but you could.
There's actually a fair bit to pay attention to when making a proper, correct crimp with even a standard home depot ring terminal. If you do it right that is. Where the conductors are when they exit / enter the bellmouth, where the insulation ends, the condition of the crimp contact area, is there damage to the conductors or insuation, and surprisingly to many people whether or not the conductors were twisted (don't twist) all play a big role in a 'good' crimp or a 'bad' one. I see electrical cable manufacturers' products that fail inspection a lot, and this stuff is their daily bread and butter. The usual reason is that crimps are "easy" and so an assembler got a little sloppy about paying attention. They know what to do but it's the easy stuff that people take for granted. The next simple thing I see screwed up often is tinning the conductors for a crimp.
@@davidkuehne476 I wired a trailer, used uninsulated butt connectors and soldered every one.
My crimping tool has a tooth in it, that bites into the connection, it works awesome, and never pulls apart
I use vice grips. Works every time.
I've been in love with the low temp solder connectors that seal and solder connections with a heat gun. Seems to solve most crimp connector problems.
I was just about to make the same comment...those are the way to go, especially if you aren't great with a soldering iron.
@@drrrrockzo Me too
They're life savers. i always have a little kit of them handy. Super cheap too
Those seem best with 18-22 awg wire
No matter what, these beat the hell out of crimp connectors. You do need to use them properly, not cook 'em and give the solder the best chance to flow. Way better regardless than crimp. I make sure I thread the wires together so even if it isn't the best joint, there is still lots of contact. They show no resistance problems, typically, especially compared to crimps.
My daughter’s first car was a 79 Dodge Aspen, with a 225. It was a freebie from a neighbor. I thought it would be a good platform for her to learn the ins and outs of vehicle maintenance. At one point she wanted to put in a stereo, but there was no adapter kit for a car that old. So we worked together, I showed her how to figure out the wiring, etc. She did most of the work, I had her solder and use shrink tubing on all of the connections. I was impressed with her work. It was a great car and we had a good time working on it together. So, Uncle Tony… My point… you have a very valuable channel.
I like using bare uninsulated butt connectors with shrink tube. Amazon has them by the hundreds for dirt cheap
Me to and i soilder them also after crimp
@@jeremyhanna3852 Best way to do it, gets you both mechanical and electrical security. It's how plane wiring repair is done afaik.
@@Cwazywazy140 thxs I did not know that about plane wiring I use the bare crimps then soilder then antiox paste a dab will do then heat shrink then wire loom taped up with good 3m loom tape
Same. Much cleaner than the insulated ones, you can solder them too, you can see how effective your crimp was, smaller shrink tube, t's all better.
Working on highway tractors and trailers I dealt with lots of shabby repairs. The biggest problems came from salt water from the salt put on the roads to melt ice. It gets in the wire strands and creates green death. Then you need to replace 6" to 12" each side. When using the insulated crimp connectors,I squeeze a bit of silicone sealant into the terminal, install the wire and crimp. Make sure both ends are sealed. To be really certain shrink tube can be put over this.
The best is uninsulated crimp connectors with shrink tube. There is shrink tube with a sealant inside also.
If there is a bad enviornment, tractor trailer is it. Thousands of miles per year with slop on the roads and vibration.
I'm a 16 year professional Heavy duty Mechanic and this is by far one of the most important videos for electrical wiring on TH-cam. Those stupid butt connectors are the Devils spawn!
here in montana they use mag chlorate as ice melter on the roads. a solderless splice that is not sealed will last one winter and fail.
I get them without the yellow/red/blue plastic. Dunk each stripped wire and dunk it in dialectic grease, Crimp properly and then heat shrink, not cheap heat shrink either the stuff with glue on it. That way if moisture actually gets into the splice (it won't) it's not going to oxidize instantly.
@@b.c4066 I too adore overkill. it reduces the amount of time I spend re-doing things!
I'm also a 16 year med/heavy truck tech, the worst were some of the body installers, cheap butt connectors, no heat shrink, even seen wire nuts used. I solder everything, rarely use a bare butt connector, follow up with a good heat shrink and that connection will outlast the truck
@@2shay550 hell most of the time I'd prefer wire nuts if it's externally mounted.
I like the ones that are shrink tubing as well as but connectors. I have now gone and bought and starting to use the shrink tubing connectors that have a bit of low temp solder that will flow and solder the wires together as you heat it.
For heat shrink I like the marine type that has sealant inside the heat shrink to glue it to the wire when hot.
That's all I use.
Those ones are ideal. The low temp solder works perfectly with a small heat gun, like the ones available for less than $ 10 in hobby stores. They're relatively small and can easily get into nooks and crannies if you have limited room to work and they don't get so hot that you run the risk of melting your wires or nearby plastics. That combined with them being heatshrink tubes, and the good ones will also have a ring of glue inside both ends, makes for mechanically strong and watertight connections.
@@MicraHakkinen yea I get ones just like that off Amazon for a few bucks for a viriaty pack. I think I paid $5-8 for a kit 9f those style with the ring of glue and solder and heat shrink.
I like those crimps with the integrated heat shrink too. I also use the ones that have both heat shrink and built-in solder on occasion. They're a little pricey so I don't use them everywhere but they can save time or sometimes be easier to work with than soldering in tight spaces like under a dash. If I have the time and the room to maneuver I still prefer to solder a connection and cover it with marine grade heat shrink, I've never had any issues doing that.
Most of my rides are 4x4's and see a lot of vibration and dirty environments. I've had the type of butt connectors that Tony shows us in the video (which somebody else installed without heat shrink) wiggle apart and come loose while driving before, I've also found wires all corroded inside those crimp connectors because no heat shrink was used and when left open to air and moisture the wire eventually starts to oxidize. No Bueno. Wiring issues will strand you in the middle of nowhere really easily and can be a nightmare to troubleshoot... ask how I know, lol.
@@rustyjeep2469 I am guilty of what Tony said, useing those as permenant connections. But the last 5 years or so I am trying to use heat shrink with any connectors if they are not built in heat shrink butt connectors. The kind your and I was talking about with heat shrink and solder I have got off Amazon, there not that expensive if you plan ahead and buy them for your supply closet.
Great tip. My preference is to solder and heat shrink, but heat shrink should be used either way, especially for exterior connections. For temporary circuits, I like to use regular wire nuts so I don't waste crimp connectors and because they are easy to install and remove without cutting the wire and are reusable. I'd never leave them in, but they are plenty secure for temporary use and testing. Wago lever nuts are great for temporary wiring too, but much more expensive than wire nuts.
I just buy motorcycle bullet type connectors in bulk.
I started a job at a "speed shop" basically and they were rewiring a VW Corraddo for a Vr6 turbo or something.
The head guy at the shop was a hothead, thought I knew nothing but he wired that damn car only using solderless connectors. Easily a hundred, all in the engine loom. It hurt to look at as someone whos wired their own car with some pride and joy.
That just hurts man. Everytime I buy a used car, inevitably I have to go through the wiring and cut out that crap and solder wires properly and finish with heat shrink tubing. I may be overzealous with this but I never EVER have electrical problems after I clean up someone else's mess.
@@ec5838 Same here bro. In over 30 years as an owner/mechanic who specialized in automotive wiring and electrical service, I never once had a return due to my wiring repairs having failed, but God knows, I repaired an awful lot of other guys "electrical repairs"!
@@greatnortherntroll6841 a friend of mines daughter had a stereo put in her BMW SUV, then started having all kinds of electrical problems, dash shutting off, things like that, not just a single issue. I told her not to let her have a stereo put in it. Well of course they deny it has anything to do with the stereo, but it never happened before. After six months of BS they brought it to me. I put the factory shit back in it, and problem solved, not sure what they did to it, I just took everything out that didn’t come factory and put it back the way it came. These new cars just aren’t designed for billy bubba to throw a system in.
What a way to absolutely ruin the wiring on a cool and uncommon (dare I say rare?) car... I'm not usually a VW guy but I love those things. I test drove one while looking for my first car (it was a 10 or 15 years old used car at the time), I fell in love with it immediately... mom said no way, it's too fast and twice what we're willing to spend 😂
@@charlesprice7608 I used to work at a body shop, about a year ago one of my colleagues was working on a brand new Grand Cherokee and couldn't get it to start after removing some body panels. He finally figured out it had to have the headlights plugged in for the engine to start. Not exactly a convenient situation for a body shop where half disassembled cars still need to be able to move around under their own power whenever possible... I think he ended up zip tying the probably very expensive LED headlights to the core support so they could drive it 60ft across our lot into the paint shop 😂
I was an aviation electricians mate in the Marine Corps.
Better than shrink tube are Kuject heat shrink connectors with the solder in the middle.
Get them at Amazon.
My dentist wants to know why I have colored plastic stuck between my teeth. :-) love you videos
I used to do that all the time just don’t bite of the copper wiring.🤣🤣🤣
Blow up doll?
@@craigcode7103 I was thinking mannequin.
@@johnwilburnWho has sex with a mannequin...weirdo.
@@craigcode7103 LOL
A few points from someone who also have some experience with fixing connections.
1: Thank you for pointing out those horrid solderfree, jackknife variants. They can easily cut your wire off within a few years. They ARE NEVER to be used.
2: Those crimped red, blue and yellow connectors have a clear/opaque version - which can be melted with a regular heat gun. Fairly good. I usually run the wires all the way through for a better connection.
3: ALWAYS crimp from the outside towards the inside. Otherwise you can push the wires out if you are unlucky. Also make a hard pull on them to check that they are good and strong. Had a bad crimp today just fell out of the crimped piece...also your crimp tool is NOT good enough. You need a real presser (which locks the tool until you press hard enough). If you have to use that crimper, crimp on the other side of the joint. It will be much stronger.
4: Thanks also for telling people to SEAL all connections. With time, most connections otherwise go bad. : )
I'm a dealer tech. Been doing it 12 years now. Always solder and heatshrink everything.
These crimp butt connectors will be a come back at some point.
solder under the hood is also a comeback waiting to happen. I like the 3m crimp/shrink/adhesive combo connecters.
Solder connections can create issues as well. The rosin is acidic. When I work circuit boards, I have a special cleaner to remove the residue so it doesn't eat the board. Solder is also rigid and weak, prone to oxidation. However, butt connectors do have an introduced point of resistance to be factored. One is negligible, but 10 in a circuit will cause some issues.
Good grief Uncle Tony I don't know how I haven't found your channel sooner I've missed out on so much. Never had anyone to teach or help me just started trying and doing and I see you do understand how important it is which makes me feel like you are my Uncle Tony! Thank you so much for your kind words and describing why and how and making it so understandable I'll be watching your channel maybe even ask your advice if possible thank you again.
I bought a set of mechanical wire strippers, paid $45 15 years ago. Some of the best money I ever spent. Snap-on sells the exact same one today.
They make butt connectors that the insulation is heat shrink. Then heat shrink with a little button of solder inside.
Or, get uninsulated ones, they have a little hole in them that is handy for getting solder inside before shrink wrapping.
Use high quality solder and marine heat shrink tubing, it contains an adhesive sealant that flows when heated. You'll get a waterproof seal for a perfect forever repair.
Ya marine heat shrink is definitely what you want but I generally prefer getting non insulated butt connectors it's much cleaner than what he is using and you don't end up with pointy bits from soldering I probably just need to use more Flux but this non insulated are pretty good with marine heat shrink
Good advice!
I like using the butt connectors with heat shrink already on them.
never saw one
most plastic doesnt shrink
@@hotrodray6802 The ones I have used are light blue . Almost transparent.
Me too. It's the only style I buy now as I don't need to tape, or shrink tube the connection. Crimp, heat and done.
@@hotrodray6802 Polyolefin.....
@@hotrodray6802 I dunno the brand, but Eric O. from South Main Auto uses butt connectors with built-in heat shrink - and there's some sort of adhesive that oozes out from the ends when you shrink them so it's a perfect, watertight seal. I'm sure they're not the cheapest, but compared to doing the job twice... :-D
Wrong crimpers. The right crimpers used the right way, with the anvil of the crimper opposite the split of the sta kon connector makes a helluva strong connection
Yes! The alignment is EVERYTHING! when properly aligned and a proper tool used the crimp is so much stronger.
Buy some better crimpers
Wrong crimpers and wrong crimp connectors.
If you're going to crimp it correctly with nice folded over loops like OEM, and use heat shrink like OEM, you should use open connectors where you can see the damn connection... Like OEM.
Obviously you put on the shrink tubing before you solder the wires. I seem to screw that up a lot.
You and me both. You get so happy that you got the crimp down while contorting yourself that you forget to put the shrink on....
I disagree with his whole context here. These types of connections should be both mechanical and solder and then shrink wrapped on top of that.
You're doing wiring that will be under carpet and totally inaccessible ever again without dismantling the car. Nobody knows if these things will last 40 years. We KNOW solder lasts a very, very long time and is both mechanical and chemical, on top of a physical mechanical connection like twisting the wires together.
Flaring brake lines and forgetting the fitting, that's my favorite
@@CodyFazio I'm good at that too!
there is a shrink TAPE available.
also liquid tape
There is a bad thing about the crimp style at least on newer vehicles. I worked at a dodge dealership in tech department in 07 to 09. A nationally known hitch and bed company was installin beds using those. 6 months later 3 trucks came in with fried computers and it was because those added too much resistance. I use them but not on my computer controlled vehicles. And only as a temporary thing. I solder everything else.
When I first got into cars and wiring, I would use these connectors. Never used heat shrink. And then I learned how to solder when I went to electronics repair school in the army. Now I exclusively solder. Soldering irons are cheap. Solder and flux is cheap as well and will last a long time. Plus it’s fun. It’s a little time consuming depending on what you’re doing but it’s going to be a problem free connection in the end and it will last a long time. Marine heat shrink tubing is a must as well as it keeps moisture out.
yup, you fight a corroded connector long enough and still cant figure the issue out, you'll start doing it correctly,
try the low-heat solder connectors, they are a game changer, use like a regular butt connector, run the wires past each-other and heat with a heat gun, bam, soldered and heat shrunk with adhesive heat-shrink
@@narmale I’ve seen that too. Might just have to check it out.
@@narmale I like to solder, but tried those on my last car radio install. Solder and shrink wrap is still more to my liking, but they worked fine
I always use the heat shrink but connectors. They cost a bit more, but I haven't had a wire repair fail since I started using them. They also have hot glue inside of them to help seal, and keep the moisture out
Having worked as an certified Master Auto Technician for 40+ years, every time I saw a crimp connection in a circuit, I replaced it with a solder joint and shrink wrap. Sorry, crimp connectors and shrink wrap are not going to do the job. You still have a danger of a high resistance connection, only one now that may be waterproof. As we used to say, do it right the first time.
Solder connectors are fine with old vehicles but when you start dealing with sensitive circuits like in a computer controlled vehicle where you are measuring voltage drop in the 0 to 5v scale you dont want to solder as the extra resistance will cause issues.
@@Milner62 Exactly the opposite. You run into more of a danger of a high resistance connection with a crimp connection that you do a soldered connection. Exactly why Chrysler and GM both specify solder connections in modern vehicles in computer circuits. Done enough recalls on Jeep Grand Cherokees where TIPM wiring, PCM and BCM wiring was replaced with updated circuits, Each time, it was stressed that only solder connections were to be used.
Not the opposite. Power flows along the outer most strands of the wire. When you fill the wire with solder you introduce more resistance into the circuit as well as producing a stress point that increases the likelihood of breaking the wiring.
As far as Chrysler recalls goes I wouldnt put much faith in that. They are known for having crappy wiring off the bat the same as VW is known for having crappy wiring off the bat.
As far as GM goes, you would have to show some proof cause every pigtail purchased directly from the dealer for late model cars comes with bare metal crimps not solder connections nor does the paperwork stress to solder the connection. Same with Ford, Ford pigtails stress to not solder the connections but to crimp them to avoid introducing increased resistance to the circuit.
@@Milner62 electrical engineer, properly done soldered connections are always lower resistance than crimped ones. Also not sure where you're getting the idea that it increases fragility. Simply untrue.
Just letting you know, I’m the racing world, soldering anything that isn’t a potted connection is highly frowned upon. Proper, mechanical crimp connections that hold to the sheathing are the standard. This holds true for all milspec wiring as well. Soldered wiring connection have been shown to be much more brittle and susceptible to fracturing in real world field conditions. I’m not saying all crimps are superior, but properly done crimps with the proper connections have been shown to be superior in every major race teams experience on the planet.
We have the connectors with shrink ends on them. They’re great, and using shrink tubing on top makes it top notch.
I use the weatherproof butt connectors, it already has shrink tubing built into it.
A while ago I soldered and used shrink wrap to rewire the bumper mounted fog lights on my friends s10, when he crashed it those wires were the only thing connecting the bumper to the car. I’ve used shrink tube and solder on everything ever since
LOLOLOL epic
I've been watching this channel for 4 years. That's how loyal I am to UTG.
Me too
The channel will be 4 in November. Time flies.
I subscribed after like the first few videos, has it really been 4 years since that?
@@GlamStacheessnostalgialounge No. Nobody got my joke.
@@johnwilburn Nobody got my joke
Thanks Tony. Marine heat shrink tubing is the greatest for under hood and trailer connections. They have heat activated adhesive inside that seals and grips the best. I don't use it for under dash or interiors 'cause I'm cheap (my daughter says I'm poor).
Uncle tony, I've been using crimp- ons since the late 60's. My dad was a low voltage electrician, he'd been using these things since they first came out. I believe there older and have been used over 70 years. Respectfully.
I am the 25% you're helping.
Your channel is really helpful, and I truly appreciate it.
That's good stuff from Uncle Tony right there.. Excellent advice!
Spot on about the guillotine connectors, they are worse than useless. I do industrial automation wiring for a living and while the gadgets are different the thought process is similar. Also junk crimpers should be a crime, once you use a good pair of crimpers It's the best. Keep em coming!
Great video once again! Crimp connectors get a bad rap from alot of people and it's all because of poor installation. I use them alot on my projects and have yet to experience a failure because I use good tools and heat shrink them afterwards. Thanks for spreading the word!
YOU DA MAN! Cant tell you enough how much I love this channel. It never gets old or stale! Congratulations UTG! BRAVO
Uncle Tony's infinite power loops for your engine bay on sale now.
Been a while since doing assembly, but will give it a try on the "guillotining" issue for the barrel connector. The smaller diameter is supposed to crimp directly on the conductor. The "shoulder" is supposed to crimp the insulator LIGHTLY and give support there. Some of the more sophisticated professional crimpers will have dies that appear offset for this reason. You can see this on wiring pins that get released from connectors; one set of tabs wrapped just tight enough to grip the insulation, and another set of tabs that grip tightly on the wire.
I've always been the solder and Shrink tube kind of guy and old habits die hard. I feel like everything else can get moisture inside for pull apart.
I use noninsulated crimps with solder as reinforcement, plus shrink tubing of course. Best of the both worlds I think
Exactly! The way I wired my 72 Z/28. I get my terminals/wire etc from MAD Electrical. Mark the owner will talk you through any electrical issue you have. Guy is a wealth of knowledge, 60 years of wiring RV's Hot Rods, Trucks, Heavy Equipment.
I switched to the soldering butt connectors with solder in the middle and glue on each side. Hit them with a torch quick and you’re good to go. Haven’t had one fail yet and I use them for a semi truck with TONS of vibration and over 100,000 miles a year. They’re great.
I never knew anyone actually used those flat crimpers for anything outside of the built in strippers? Total trash tool.
Yup, they are very nasty.
I've never had a good experience with the flat ones. The strippers are always so far from the pivot, they loosen up immediately and wobble around where you're trying to get a good positive grip on your wire to strip it. I much prefer the needlenose looking style with the stripping teeth at the end.
My go-to setup for years has been the Mac tools TCT-800MS kit, the crimper is beast, but like all self adjusting strippers, the spring wears or the screws on the left jaw break off. Average lifespan is about 17000 strips.(been through a lot of them) and if you can find one, get the stripper with the left jaw cast into the tool, not screwed in. It lasts longer and has a better self adjust that doesn’t leave you having to use two hands to hold both sides down. 9 years of figuring out what tools work best. If you must use electrical tape, 3m tartan holds the longest. If you’re soldering for a while, forget the standard guns or irons - you want a Triton JLA “push to heat” hotlips setup with the replaceable jaw tips.
Your right Uncle Tony. I prefer the soldered connection with the shrink tubing. Thank you for the video. Your the best! 👍
adhesive lined shrink tubing is fantastic!
Uncle Tony's Garage, and Ian Roussel's Full Custom Garage are a couple of my favorite car shows. I've worked (on the side) as a mechanic, (and professionally) as a machinist, welder and fabricator for many years and I see useful, helpful content on both of these shows. I appreciate how detailed info is presented and explained so the viewer can understand how things are done and why some things are done in certain ways. Thanks for the great content.
Oh also get one of these torch lighters. Makes it simpler. Just don't put it too close when heat shrinking. www.amazon.com/Single-Flame-Lighter-Windproof-Refillable/dp/B07MTJSVTT/ref=asc_df_B07MTJSVTT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=366282422082&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8383964913260439201&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004408&hvtargid=pla-813729948897&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=77003623380&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=366282422082&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8383964913260439201&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004408&hvtargid=pla-813729948897
So you know, you're holding your crimping tool backwards when you're stripping like I used to do so many times. The printing is meant to be readable while you're inserting the wire from the front side with the taper. Try it both ways, and you'll see you don't have to pull as hard to get the insulation off.
True. Also, don't twist so much, and use a bit longer stripped end. Let the ends of the individual wires mesh and mix inside the connector and crimp them together in the center as well.
That style of tool is garbage no matter how you use it. Just get the right tools.
I tend to use my lighter to strip ends, it works well in tights spaces and allows me to gently pull off as much the insulation as I need.
Thanks UTG.
I remember when a friend put a stereo and equalizer in his 73 Charger. He wired it by just twisting everything together with no tape. Some owner of the car before him had done a number on the dash with a hacksaw where the radio was supposed to go leaving only one knob hole to support the whole radio as the older Chrysler radios had the volume and tuning knobs side by side. Further he set the equalizer down on on top of the transmission tunnel.
Essentially, every time he rounded a corner or went over a bump wires came loose or grounded out. Sometimes the equalizer also went flying. Consequently, the job of whomever was riding shotgun was to get under the dash and get the tunes back up and fast. He was an impatient guy (actually more of a dick) and had little tolerance for someone who could not get them up fast enough, especially when he wanted to crank up the volume to impress some girl. I was one of the few who could get them up running pretty fast, so I used to get to ride shotgun the most. However, I would have preferred to sit in the back.
ive had really good luck on thinner wires twisting them together, folding them over, and then using shrink tubing over that its comes out pretty neat and seems to work well. The problem with soldering is that apparently wires like to break right after the solder joints if they move around much.
That was one of the best videos I’ve seen I’ve been working on my own cars and motorcycles for 46 years and that’s the first time someone has taught me the correct way thank you sir
Like your channel Uncle Tony. A bit of advice, toss those combo stripper/crimpers. Get a pair of T&B Sta-con crimpers and electricians type strippers. The Klein type strippers are about $20 anywhere. The Sta-Cons are kinda pricey, check your pawn shops. Keep up the great content, Tony
I've been working on trash trucks since 1980. I started with with the stamped steal type crimpers, then I went to the heavy staking type, then I found silicon dielectric grease to keep moisture out. I've now found the ratcheting type crimper that makes a much better and consistent crimp. Most of the time I don't have the space, or the time to use heatshrink. A big part of the failures I run into are rats chewing on the wire
here to learn!
and teach the people who get left behind!
Liquid electrical tape can be a lifesaver too. Seals the wires tight.
Love that stuff.. its also good for sealing wires where insulation has been cut but not the wire itself.. 9nly thing i hate about the stuff is the containers it comes in.. are terrible.. and overtime it dries up in the tub
Hells yes. Don't have to remember to put it on beforehand, it's always the right length, and it doubles as install adhesive!
Where can I get some of that liquid electrical tape ?
@@jimwednt1229 any auto parts stores should have it
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 , thank you , I appreciate your help.
Thank you Uncle Tony!
When I trained automotive apprentices, I always told them that there is no stupid question! :-)
So you lied to your apprentices ? I assure you, there ARE stupid questions.
Let me introduce you to some co-workers.
I love the comment section
@@richardknottek6618 Yes, but insulting a person as they are learning is counterproductive. I'd rather hear a stupid question, then no questions at all. Otherwise, how do they learn!?
@@mikeymike758 m
Your channel has been exactly what y'all wanted for me. I have minimal knowledge and even less tools y'all keep me Workin on my dad's 1975 250 3 on the tree
Best advice. Ditch your flat crimper. Get a set of PWCSS7ACF's.
This right here or a set of Klein Tools J1005 . NEVER use flat crimpers.
@@mach5jeep Not only is it better for the crimp, it’s easier on the hands that are doing the work. Been using the snap-on one for almost a decade now, as an electrical upfitter. No repetitive strain or aches yet.
Exactly what your mom said
You can tell approximately how far along in history this video was filmed by the position of Tony's right-hand index finger bruise that slowly travels up his nail hahaha.
We call them "Slivka" - "Plum" in Slovakian ;P
Use marine grade low temperature solder connector instead. Seals solders and vibration resistant all in one.
not under the hood with that low temp stuff. troubleshooting nightmare on something like a 5 volt reference signal.
Love this channel. He is brutally honest and no B.S..
💥One way to tell Uncle Tony is the real deal is that he's removed the safety feature from his Bic lighter! 👽
Excellent - "back to basics" reminders. Thanks for this. I need reminders. :)
I use heat shrink connectors that seal with adhesive. Used them in medical equipment, they're great.
They're awesome for this too
@@KC9UDX if it's good enough for medical equipment, it's definitely solid enough for cars
@@GideonWallace not necessarily; medical stuff doesn't deal with road salt and wild temperature swings. But otherwise, they do work very well for this.
@@KC9UDX go work on a field hospital, and medical equipment that goes in aircraft and then tell me afterwards
Do you have a link for those? Thank you.
Easy to understand, common sense instruction. Thanks Tony!!
We call that corrosion “green death” in the trucking world road salt and truck wash chemicals accelerate it
100% right. Totally agree. To often l see corroded wires at the connection of every splice on other people's cars.
_"The Single Most Misused Item In The World Of Cars"_ OH that's easy *THE GAS PEDAL!*
The most dangerous part of a car is the nut holding the steering wheel. Guns don't kill people, bad genetic hygiene does.
I was using solderless connectors, mainly crimp caps, 40 years ago as a car stereo installer at a few different local shops. In an inside-car environment, they last forever. Where they see weather, I use shrink tube on soldered connections, or glue filled heat shrink solderless crimp terminals - a great little invention right there.
You can use those for cable stops and other things around the shop. "They're Great"
This is the kind of basic instruction that backyard mechanics like me never get. Thank you so much!
Ok, who’s going to mention that UT was stripping the wires backwards? I guess it’s me. 😁
I remember in the early 2000’s Ford went away from solder for warranty repairs. They found that crimping and heat shrinking created a much more reliable connection. They even sent out a nice ratcheting crimping tool for the dealerships to use.
When it comes to my car I'm a pain in the ass, it has to look pretty, I can solder, but to me it does not look good , even with shrink tubing over it, I cut the insulation off of butt connectors and crimp, then shrink the tubing with a heat gun, I have been doing this for years and have never had a problem!
I do this all the time. I also do it with spade connectors. Compared to the factory insulation, they end up smaller shrink wrapped and you can colour code the shrink wrap to identify circuits. Since it is easier to keep a kit of colourful shrink wrap than a bunch of spools of wire, I sometimes find it better and cleaner looking for simpler wiring jobs to wire with one colour wire and identify with shrink wrap on ends. Btw, I found uninsulated butt crimps on amazon a while back and it saves me the pain of cutting the insulation off.
You can buy non-insulated butt connectors and save yourself both money and time. ;) With the non-insulated ones, you also get to use the u-shaped crimpers instead of the round ones, which makes a more solid connection. You can flow some solder in there as well when you're feeling extra ambitious. Adds a little strength to the connection, but the big thing with the solder is that it fills up the space, making a better electrical connection.
I don't think you are soldering correctly. Try a linemans splice..... but solder is rigid and brittle. You have to pick the appropriate splice for the condition. One needs to flex, or the slower will cause the wire to break, while the next can be held in place and not require any flex. Think about this before "feeling ambitious" and creating a problem by trying to do better.
@LabRat Knatz I still use the good Ole 60/40 solder. It gets brittle, too.
A good video Tony. I remeber the solderless connectors back in the 60's up but I don't know of any heat shrink through to about the 80's. I never really cared for the quik connects that you chucked aside, but we used them to splice into an excising wire but they did damage and the wires would turn green in time even under the dash. I always go to the heat shrink now, it saves somany headaces.
I like a dab of antiox paste on my wire before it goes in the connector
antiox is actually engineered specifically for aluminum wire. It oxidizes differently than copper. You are better off with plain old dielectric grease.
@@DanEBoyd not to speak for anyone else, but in a case like that in my professional life I'd have to question the design and intended use of the materials. In other words: a different set of materials might be in order to avoid having that peoblem in the first place. I see this type of issue professionally in for instance incompatible confomal coatings on circuit boards after a repair. I fail them without exception, to force engineering to re-evaluate the rework instructions, because they _will_ experience premature failure.
@@DanEBoyd every single electrical connection is a situation where galvanic corrosion is possible. Even copper to copper if they are different alloys. Or have different coatings. Again, the "antiox" or more commonly called "noalox" is designed for aluminum wire specifically. It actually has stuff in it designed to penetrate (mechanically) the hard oxide that forms on aluminum as soon as it is exposed to oxygen. Not saying you cant use it on copper. But I have found dielectric grease lasts longer. And is more effective at warding off "green-death".
You don't have to be a beginner to enjoy this channel. I've worked in this very shop since 1999 and I like to let your videos play on my box while I'm working.
Just enjoyable to watch and listen to, plus I learned a lot from your videos
Do not ever use shrink wrap as a substitute for a condom: you'll end up in a real pinch!
The bad part is when you heat it with a lighter.
You had a bad experience??
@@DanEBoyd "It"?
Also don't use a forceful statist government as a substitute for controlling yourself around other people in public or on the air.
@@brentfisher902 Wow. You had to go there.
For some of us this channel is a break from dealing with the crap going on in the outside world. It is our chance to deal with simple things: idle mixture, will this cam help with the launch, will the clutch hang in, etc.
And then you came in here and slapped us back out of a pleasent dream.
Yep, always use shrink tube. I stopped using those combo tools decades ago and went to stand alone, quality, wire strippers and crimpers. Like Ken Cooper posted, when I have important connections to make then it gets soldered and shrink tube. In the 70s I learned power line level electric work and learned the lineman splice. It is a mechanical splice for wires that is stronger than the wire you are using. When soldered and properly insulated it is a permanent wire splice that will never need to be touched again. Oh, I also learned the correct way to tape a joint ... that is an entirely different subject. Just a little "plastic" tape will not be insulation for 20,000 volts LOL!
Personally I blame squirrels
I had one jump on my calf one day. I think he wanted my nuts.🤣
@@MrJohnnyDistortion I had one bite me a few years back , it was eating sunflower seeds out of my hand and the furry jerk bit my thumb , made me bleed and it hurt lol ,
@@unclesquirrel6951
Oh yea they're meat eaters. Maybe they eat their young like Florida lizards.🤣
Or those Trash Pandas.
@@derekbowbrick6233 😱
I started using shrink tubing more regularly the last few years. Used to just do the connectors and electrical tape. But now I use shrink tubing basically on everything. Even in right spots where the connector will make the wiring just too thick with Jenny wires. Then I'll just splice, twist, and shrink tube. I also now get the butt connectors with the shrink tubing already on it.
How do you sit on your knees like that for so long?
That is the easy part. Getting back up is the challenge.
Well, that's what the internet if for. Just stay up late and kneel on the chair and play Darth Edgelord for 72 hours....
From my experience over the years as a truck driver and trailer wiring. I used wire crimps, liquid tape, and shrink tubes on all of my connections, cause road salt can work its way down to the connection point. But now with marine grade shrink tubes on the market, you can get by without liquid tape.
That is what I have done and it has work well for me...so far.
They are amateur parts and there's more to soldering.
Great instruction. Thanks Tony.
On a side note, the make solderless connectors with a shrink sleeve. Two birds, one stone. They work really well (I'm sure someone probably mentioned this already somewhere in the comments). I agree heat shrink needed both regular butt splice connectors in automotive applications. The whole care hoes through heat/condensation cycles. Marrettes/wire nuts are BS in a car. Always cause problems. Great for testing but need replacement upon completion.
CULT LEADER UTG!!!
Basic but very true. I used to install car stereos back in the 80"s and most installers didn't heat shrink there connectors they almost always had shorts frying gear or tweeters. Do it right the first time.
Great information Uncle Tony, thanks for explaining it in such good detail.
Hassitronic makes a great crimp connecter, with thick shrink tube over it instead of hard plastic. They also have a connecter with solder inside shrink tube that is used with heat gun, love em...
Shrink tube does not stop moisture. Shrink tube does not seal the joint. To actually seal the joint you need to use a sealant like dielectric grease or my favorite, silicone. Squirt a little drop of silicone in the fitting, insert the wire and crimp, then slide on the shrink tube and heat. That will seal against moisture.
I've been using solderless connectors with shrink tube built in for a couple of years now, they work great.
I'm in the electrical industry where our crimpers are pull tested for quality control. I have $200 crimpers but for the Hot Rod guys I suggest Klein Tools 3005CR. They are a ratchet crimper that ensures full-cycle crimping. They are like under 30 bucks on Amazon right now.
Living in the "rust belt", I use the one's with the shrink attached, apply some dielectric grease to the wire before inserting, and shrink tube over top with normal. Great for trailer wiring and stuff on the exterior
Thanks Tony very helpful, some of the most basic common things we overlook.
i work at Union Pacific and we use these clear and blue wire connectors that you can put 3 wires in it w/o stripping them and you press down the button with some pliers and it has silicone in it to prevent water getting in. Ive tugged on the wires and they don’t come out. They are a really good product!
We use the saddle is crimp connectors back when I was in the Navy in 1977. You gave great advice about using and shrink tubing. I’ll be using it from now on. But you might wanna invest in a good crimping tool. Love your videos.
This is why I watch your channel, I've been working on cars for 12 years now, but I am also well aware that I don't know everything. This however is being added to the cook book as we speak.
One thing i've used while working out in the field when no shrink tubing was available is to coat the solderless connection with plain old R.T.V silicone. This completely seals the joint and makes it incredibly strong
The Small things that are Overlooked... Can make the Biggest Problems. Thanks for Sharing... Brother
Nissan and Peugeot use these crimp connectors in their dealer issue wiring repair kits. The Nissan ratcheting crimper is excellent. The ones I use shrink and the insides melt under a heat gun, perfectly sealing the joint. I used to be a solder guy, but almost exlusively use this now.