It’s because when you’re busy doing something you’re passionate about you don’t have time to spectate someone else do something you’re not at all involved in. Ya, I’m not a sports guy either.
The Steelers played football yesterday, my brother said. It took me like 5 minutes to find the Xfinity doohickey on my TV, shows how much I even watch the damn thing. And the fucking Dolphins game was on anyway! The fact I don't really care anyway made it easy to shut it off and walk away.
Starting an old engine? I know this one.. First of all, cut back the black berry bushes, chase the big damn possum out of the engine compartment, clean the squirrel nest off the intake, because there's always a squirrel nest on the intake, yeah I'm going to blame the squirrels too, and check the air filter for a mouse nest. Check to see how bad the mice ate the wiring. Check the oil, what's the oil smell like, taste like and look like, examine the dipstick,was it a milkshake at one time and it settled? pull the plugs, how bad was it burning and on which one? a little lube of your choice into the cylinders, myself I use marvels mystery oil,let that sit for a minute, pull the cap,check and rotor for cracks and corrosion, clean the points. For shits and giggles while you have it apart spin it over by hand and check the timing. Throw all that back together. Get out the squirty bottle of petroleum and fill the carburetor bowl. Hold your breath as you get into a mouse nest smelling vehicle,roll down the window so you can breathe, light up a smoke and Give it a try..
@@malcombailey8590 I just wish there were more of you. I recently turned 61 with some health issues that make it hard to turn wrenches like I used to. I have a 67 Camaro that I street raced back in the 80s, 71 Cheyenne pickup, 85 K5 Blazer, and 01 WS6 Trans Am. Would love to find a young guy to help me work on them, and I’d be willing to teach them things, but haven’t had much luck finding someone that wants to do it, even when I’d pay them fairly. About to start restoring my Camaro, wondering how I’m gonna get it done without some help. I’d have plenty of help from my racing buddies back in eastern NC where I’m from, but got to stay here in north GA because I’m taking care of my elderly mom.
@@davidfarrell1167 I am 44 and have been a mechanic at a dealership since ‘96, at a Chrysler store until 01 and at a Jaguar/Land Rover one since then. I have watched UT’s generation leave the industry and the one below me enter it. The video UT did the other day about the decline of our blue collar, skilled trades workforce was right on the money.
@@davidfarrell1167 I’m 41 and fix cars as a hobby, after my late Granddad showed me some basics with engines and tools. UT- not only are you a good man, you ARE the man!!!
My son was helping his friend start an old carbureted Mopar. Old dad to the rescue since I started when it was just carburetors (car dealership). They were giving little squirts of starting fluid. I made him grab the small gas can and told him to flood it, the look on their faces was priceless. I stuck a screw driver in the choke to hold it open as I sat in the car cranking and playing with the throttle. They questioned my sanity when I told them to flood it again. It started and ran like crap and I had to keep it running for awhile playing with the throttle until it would idle on it's own. They couldn't believe it started thinking it was seriously flooded. After it warmed up they asked me why it sounds so rough. I told them if they sat around for 50 years they wouldn't move to good either. I then used a spray bottle and kept spraying water down the carb. Then I tried to choke it out at half throttle lifting the rag before it stalled. It ran much better, that's when I told them they should probably give it a fresh tune up and oil change. They looked at me as if I was a magician.
I have seen engine damaged from this both piston to valve contact And pushrods bent I have found it a good practice to pull The valve cover and give the valves a light tap with a hammer to verify they are not stuck
Yeah, I do this working up to my first start in the Spring to start building oil pressure to avoid a dry start. For new guys: Remember to unplug the coil for safety!
Fifteen Years Ago my brother handed me an old briefcase that contained a timing light, vacuum/ fuel pressure gauge, dwell tach and numerous other tools from the Analog days . I told him to keep them for one of his two sons . A two year old and a four year old. He laughed and said they will never need them because the tools were obsolete. I took the tools home and placed the case in a filing cabinet I had converted to hold various tool cases. Well, last week I got a visit from his youngest son. He asked me to help him work on a 64 Chevy Van he had purchased. I walked him over to the filing cabinet and handed the lad his dad's briefcase. I told him to go home and ask his dad to give him a hand. Also, to make certain to show his dad the briefcase. I added that If the two of them needed a hand I would be more than happy to assist. Got a call one hour later from my brother. He laughed and admitted to his error in judgement. So, never say never folks.
Working in the auto parts industry I was "the carburated guy", my buddy was "the Japanese guy" and our mgr. was "the euro guy". Think I had the coolest title. You can get squirt bottles in the BBQ area at Walmart for a buck. I love to see someone passing on the knowledge! Keep it up, UT. Understand however, this is a skill developed over many years. So don't worry if you can't do it the first time like UT or Thunderhead 289, just practice, that's all.
I was in there the other day. I experienced what is best described as an academic renaissance of sorts. The import performance aisle. I never saw so many LED's, stick on decor and spoilers in my life. They even had skateboards, beef jerky and t-shirts. Forget the fact that they didn't have e-clips in the store or even know what one was
You can save that buck or two and repurpose a plastic soda or oil bottle . Just need to put a hole in the cap of whatever size you deem necessary for your purpose . Most old cars seem to have a few empties laying about , anyway , and , any reasonably sharp object can be used to make the hole . I have even seen some deluxe versions where they actually used a drill bit instead of a pocket knife or a random sharp rock .
@@andrewgarcia3136 Totally get it. A buddy helped me buy a fixer upper 1979 BMW 750L for $1k. Parts were $2500 and it sold for $13k. Expensive and hard to work on. New models are considerably worse.
I'm 28, just bought a 76 GMC C15 with a 350sbc and TH400 that's sat for 3 years after a hard life. After replacing the stupid adapter plated 20" alloy wheels and got some old style steel wheels I've been doing other TLC work like making sure the QJet is in good order and I flushed the coolant system of all the rust, replaced coolant temp sending unit. HEET in the gas tank to catch any water along with some fresh gas with Marvel Mystery Oil, and a squirt bottle into the vent tube and down the gullet really saved me. Now I need to redo the exhaust pipe and patch the body. I'm glad I have my Dad and guys like Uncle Tony teaching the new generation.
I bought a Old car this summer. Cleaned up the Ignition system very carefully it was alot work. My fuel pump started leaking so Replaced that. Ohh some car have no Fuel filter from the Tank. Carburator gets full corrosion I know one guy that used Vacuume to clean it out. I went to college for mechanics and its not interesting or easy but going over the Basics is basic maintenance. Timing chain slop within spec, compression, engine connectors clean. At some point gaskets need done but is intake vacuume hanging in there. Back in the 90s i had duel exaust put on mine i could not get power the cam was weak. GM is awsome
What are prices like on old cars in the US at the moment? Here in Australia prices for old cars with rear wheel drive and carburettor have gone stupidly expensive. Not sure if it's covid or retirees reliving their youth, or people hiding their savings in old cars.
@@BL2197 I paid 2500 dollars for this truck, I've seen ones in better shape go for a lot more. This one was a little beat up and needed floorboards badly.
Good video. I like to add a little 2 stroke oil to the gas in the carb for a little lubricant for the upper cylinder components if it’s been some years sitting
Its nice to ask the older generation questions and get respectful answers. If they are crabby and negative I dont help them when they need help to post their parts / cars for sale on Marketplace LOL.
Agreed, they act like the younger generation are idiots and simultaneously can’t click 3 buttons to complete a basic task on a computer. If you look at both tasks, the computer one is objectively far easier, and only one party is trying to learn something new.
@@bannedbycommieyoutube5time920 Some of us can rebuild an old carbureted engine down to bare block and have it start within the first second, AND have computer certs training others in software. One does not exclude the other. Attitude is of all ages.
What I don't understand is why people don't even pull the valve covers which in my opinion is mandatory on an unknown history of an engine. I pull the plugs and air cleaner, then the valve covers. Some PB blaster or equivalent down the cylinders. Then some fresh oil onto rockers and down on the push rods to the lifters and cam. That way you achieve a basic lubrication. Now I try turning over the crank by hand a couple of times and watch the rockers if everything moves as it should. If successful I now turn the engine over with the starter until I get oil pressure and look for spark. Plugs back in and maybe covers back on if everything looks okay. NOW your procedure follows. I absolutely don't want the hard hits by firing cylinders on the dry main bearings and rods and fast spinning dry parts etc. which might stay dry because of something is bad or clogged in the oiling system while the engine revs up. So I don't really agree with your procedure without doing some work in advance.
I think he assumed that was already done, as you are quite right. The fuelling is the last step. If everything has been done as you outlined, not only will it start, but it will keep running, and not have parts blow up.
One aspect of Uncle Tony’s videos I really appreciate is that he doesn’t feel the need to explain completely how an engine works before giving tips on working on them. So many other channels must think we’re all first timers because they always give lessons leading with “every engine is an air pump.”
Yes I scream at those revival videos too. Another thing that pisses me off is when they got a half assed battery and it’s clearly not spinning the engine fast enough. Get a good battery charger on that thing immediately and put it on boost when you’re gonna try to start it and get it properly spinning!!!
I bought a Caddy 500 cid about 10 years ago. it was on the ground when I bought it. When I got home my brother and I decided to see if it would run in the back of my truck., so we hooked up a battery and dumped gas down the carb. I was controlling the throttle and my brother was using a screw driver to bump the starter. I opened the throttle and all of a sudden it gave the loudest back fired out the exhaust manifolds I've ever heard. I was standing on the ground on one side of the truck and my brother on the other. We ducked and when we poked our heads back up we were looking over the engine at each other with this stupid shocked look on our faces and burst out laughing at each other. we both almost had heart attacks that day.
Im in my mid 30s. Videos like this make me happy that I had my grandfather around to show me things like this. Learned the EFI stuff on my own. He was never a fan of it.
Making sure a motor will turn by hand first is also important. If it still doesn't turn after applying reasonable force, just pull the valve cover(s) off because there's probably a stuck valve. I've seen alot of bent pushrods and some broken valves on these revivals. If the valve train is clear then you gotta look in the cylinders and make sure one isn't full of debris.
Back in 2014 I woke up my dad's 1971 340 Duster after sleeping since 1990. Other than lazy lifters from keeping the valves open for 24 years, it fired up pretty easy. The thing that helped was being in a garage since new.
My old man, who's an actual OLD MAN, used to stand around watching me try to start my junk and just give me rations of crap, "GIVE IT SOME GAS! THEY SELL IT BY THE GALLON!!", then elbow me out of the way, grab the bottle and the linkage and make shit happen. There might be a fireball to fill the entire shop or a backfire that shook the windows but whatever woreout 440 or 383 would wake up and start running and he'd look at me like, "what are ya' scared of boy?" We woke up a 318 in a pickup recently and I think he was disappointed it didn't put up more of a fight. 86 years old and still enjoys a good fireball
its the residue petroleum all fuels leaves, makes things gunk up becoming like tree sap. if the vehicle is been sitting for more than 5 years, do a deep clean of the unit before starting, could suck in gunk and burn out
Another note, most carbs have vent tubes that lead directly into the float bowl. You can prime the carb, by filling the float bowl through that vent tube, using a squirt bottle. I have done this many times, and it usually gives just enough run time for the fuel to make it up from the tank, or whatever portable fuel cell you may be using. It will also alow you to increase the rpms with out continuously squirting fuel into the carb. This is important to get oil slinging onto the camshaft, which is also usually mostly dry when an engine has been sitting for years.
Yes, I fill the bowl too. And make sure I can see the squirter works. Then check the spark, battery, compression. Once I had dissasembled a motorcycle engine to bare block halves, needed a crack welded, then reassembled and started and ran on first kick. My fellow motorcycleclub member watching this, who had spent 4 months getting his bike to run unsuccessfully, gave up on old motorcycles that day. Its all about going through the steps and checking off all checkboxes. No need to craaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaank.
Glad you said that. I do the same with a little oil mix to rejuvenate that dry accelerator pump. Also it greatly reduces fire hazard if a valve is sticking and backfire happens when someone is dumping gas in it. No need for that. I just cringe when a young uninformed person is furiously pumping the gas pedal on a bone dry carburetor,
@@richceglinski7543 if your fire starts on the carb a good policy is set air cleaner on top so no open fire could quickly start and then if you have fire, turn the engine over that will suck the fire in
Truth. Years working on carburated marine engines. I got to work on my EFI and electronic ignition Ford 300 engine. What a dream. Just get in the right neighborhood and computer took over. Still points and carb like riding a bike. It's not a science. It's a learned art form.
I always fill the fuel bowl through the bowl vent first. In that process you get enough "spillage" to prime the throttle bores. I usually let them struggle to run until they get oil pressure. Once oil pressure is there I immediately take the rpm's to 1200 or above until normal engine temp is reached.
bought a 66 pontiac about this time last year. In the past year I've gone from not even knowing how the carburetor works to where I am now in the middle of a DIY cam swap. It has been a challenging learning curve because as a 30-something I never had to fiddle with this tech on cars growing up. But in addition to being half the point, learning is almost necessary because there are fewer and fewer places that will even consider touching the old cars, and if you do find one the labor rates have not become any cheaper.
Is it carbed? The quardajet I had on my thirdgen had leaking bowls, needed some epoxy inside the bowls, as its porous, and develops small leaks in the bowl casting.. It leaked down so it didnt gave enough fuel to fire, needed to run the pump some first. Epoxy fixed it. Instant starts after that.
I taught my boys and their cousin exactly what you described on a 75 Monte Carlo that had been sitting for 15 years. First prime it hit a few times. Second prime it hit and coughed. Third prime it ran for a good 4 to 5 seconds. Thanks Uncle Tony for reminding me that old knowledge is valuable knowledge. Not everyone cares to tune with a lap top. But hey, to each their own. Take care. See ya tomorrow.
"Crank it and crank it and crank it and it... and never open the throttle." For years, since I began driving in the '60's (Mopars, of course), get in, pump the gas pedal twice, open to 1/4 throttle, turn the key. The hardest thing for me to learn with fuel injection was to keep my foot all the peal, just turn the key and let the computer do its thing. EDIT: On the other hand, after all these years I finally have a fuel injected Hemi. 😁
dont forget filling the carb through the float bowl vent. to give it something to run on and wet the accelerater pump, float operation on Quadrajets can be cheked through the vent tube using a spray can straw or a bic pen insert. if it rises on it's own after applying light pressure usually there is boyancy for the float to work correctly. if flames are shooting from the intake or exhaust , Timing light comes out and TDC should be confirmed. A thumb over the number one spark plug hole can help you find the compression stroke. A business card or match book is usually enough to thickness to get most points adjusted , The abrasive on matchbooks is also useful for cleaning points in a pinch. Mechanical fuel pumps don't like ethonal fuel, a ruptured diaphram can put fuel into your crankcase washing out bearings.
Sometimes the sitting has other fun things that can be a head scratcher to a young guy as well. I remember going to Dad's house in 1984 to bring my 69 Camaro to Montana after the family grew out of the Datsun pickup. It had been sitting for several years and started but wouldn't shift into 1st gear (Muncie M21). Dad walked by and said "It acts like the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel". So I crawled under, split the 2 piece lakewood bellhousing and pried the disc loose. Drove the car 180 miles without a hiccup. Just last year my son put in a Tremec 6 speed behind the 468 big block in it. He ran enough old cars and trucks to get the "education" from my Dad and I. Now he is teaching his son.
Thanks again ! Always learning something on your channel. I'm an old driveway mechanic (65 years old) and think I've forgotten more than I've ever known about cars. I have a 1971 Dodge D100 with a 318 and four on the floor. Been sitting a couple years now after having a heck of a time trying to get it started and having other projects but have a much better understanding of what to do from this and other videos of yours I've watched. Thanks for all the great insight.
Dodge went to electronic in 1972 so you still have points. Get a thin strip of 300-400 grit emery cloth and fold it in half, grit side out. Pop the distributor cap off and gently open the points. If they're already open, bump the engine until the points are off the peak of the cam (closed). Put your folded emery cloth in there and let the points close on it. Pull it out. Repeat a few times, and you can check for continuity. Inside the cap use a flat screwdriver to scrape the corrosion off the metal contacts that connect to the wire towers. Put it back together and check for spark. If the color of the spark is orange replace the condenser, you want blue sparks. If you have continuity across the points and no spark check the white ceramic resistor on the firewall. My memory says they're five ohms, it's there to drop the voltage so the points last longer you can put a jumper on the terminals and some starter circuits bypass it while cranking to make up for the voltage drop caused by the demand of the starter. A 1971 will not like gasohol, you'll need to feed it non-ethyl. I like to prime them with a splash out of the jug for the chainsaw, that little bit of 2 cycle oil helps lube the valve guides and rings until the oil pump starts working.
Excellent advice!! I'm a big Dodge guy!! I currently have four, all 2wd, 1984 Dodge, 318, 1986 Dodge (seriously rust free) 360, 1991 Dodge 318, 1996 Dodge 360 (extended cab) rust free!! All run, except the 1984!! Parts truck!!
That's great info to pass along Tony. I remember these procedures as I'm the same age as you, Tony, Lol. But as you say many younger folks have never even driven a stick shift let alone a carburetor car. I really miss the simplicity of the carburetor, non computer cars. A few years back we tried selling my wife's Toyota 2000 Solara V6 with a 5 speed manual. No one wanted it because it was a stick shift! We eventually sold it for half of what the automatics were going for.
You're Right TONY, IT Makes it easier on the value train against long-term or short-term storage when it comes to first startup. No fatigue on the value train. think about it
UT, thanks for keeping it real. I learned the trade in the 70's, when a tune up required more than plugs and carbs had to be adjusted. I left the trade professionally BC (before computers). Now just my drag car and hot rods for me! Thanks again, hope the young people are paying attention.
Thankfully I grew up with my Pop and Grandpop building muscle cars my first car was a 69 C-10 I bought from. A farmer. Pulled the 305 and dropped in a 427 with a 400 turbo trans. Now I am working on my Pops 81 f-250. Has a decent 302 but found a 429 boss for her. Love your videos brother, keeping us young folk informed on stuff even my Pop forgot since he left the game. We know the videos are a pain so thanks again.
Well said Tony! Ive found myself as a ‘young guy’ making these mistake even tho I’ve been tinkering with carb’d engines for 15+ years. A good reminder, as this isn’t something we all face each day.
I have resurrected more than a few cars over the years. 20 years ago, when my daughter was 17, a neighbor offered her a ‘79 Dodge Aspen, 225. It had been sitting in their yard for 6 years, untouched. I told my daughter that we needed to see if it would wake up and move under its own power before we accepted. After a wasp-killing and checking vital fluids, we set up an old lawn mower gas tank for fuel, put in a fresh battery borrowed from my truck and cranked. It woke up, but not happy at first. After several more startings, it was sounding much better! She and I did a lot of work on it, if I was getting greasy, so was she. It was her go-to vehicle for years. She learned A LOT about older cars and helped me go through several engines. Good times!
Listen! This is how its done. Im glad I had an uncle Bobby who is much like uncle Tony. He let me fix my car in his garage when I was young. I thought it was because he thought I was awesome, but in fact it was so he could keep an eye on me... and come over and fix things right when I was going off course hahah.
That’s good to hear. Love those cars myself and find it a shame how many people my age ruined them either from crashing/ over modding. If you want one that hasn’t been abused too much the automatics seem to be it.
@@MultiRokusho this is my 4th 240, my previous 3 were all factory automatics, they were of varying condition lol. I’m taking good care of my current chassis. No overfenders or bozo modifications
In case you dont know how helpful this video is, I want to tell you. As millennial I need to start an old RV with no old timers around to talk to about how to get it going. This video has kept alive the older knowledge. Thanks again.
I normally spray WD-40 into the plug holes and let it sit a few hours. Then turn it over by hand, if it does that then I change the oil and filter. Once it starts and shows oil pressure I hold it at 2000 to 2500 RPM to lube the camshaft lobes and lifters for a min. Then I shut it off so it doesn't overheat.
You get really good at priming and throttle position if you own an old kickstart harley. Well, any kickstart bike really. Take the electric start away and if forces you to become much more focused on the machine.
Yep, that was my experience too. I learned the 3 starting scenarios, hot, cold, heatsoaked, one off which always worked. No problem touring country to country ones man and machine is one, even with old stuff.
I restored a 75 F350 truck that sat for 20 years. There was absolutely no rust inside the engine. Did a lot of work on the top side of the engine. Didn't have to rebuild the heads, but I hot tanked them when I pulled them off. I had to pull the heads off to remove the exhaust manifolds. Every single bolt broke off to the exhaust manifold. Used my milling machine to cut the bolts out, and then re-tapped the holes. Other than that, the rocker tubes, rockers, valve springs, and valves were all in terrific condition. I even hot tanked the intake manifold.
I am always yelling at them , GIVE IT MORE GAS!!" lol. I learned this with my hot rods sitting over winter here in Canada, never mind 30 years. It always used to surprise me how much gas it took to get them going in the spring.
This is really funny...'cos I do the same thing. What absolutely appalls me, is that much of the time the oil is not changed nor cycled through the oil galleries before they try to start the old engine.
Marvel Mystery Oil and fuel, 1:25, respectively. Sufficient for combustion chamber/cylinder lube, but plenty of fuel to light it up. There will be smoke, but only for a minute after it starts. Old school mechanic from Europe turned me on to that and it always works, as long as compression is decent and ignition is sending spark.
As a young fella myself ive always been blessed to have a lot of old mechanic friends in my life. I don't know any general master mechanics I.E. someone like Car Wizard, most mechanics I know do have the essential skills but specialize in there own niche: Euro cars, JDM cars, transmission builders, engine builders/machinists, moto mechanics, etc. Gotta take in all the wisdom you can. Having good friends like that who are passionate about the work they put out and willing to pass on their knowledge is so valuable, you'll never learn from a book or a classroom what you would just working next to someone under the hood. P.S. if you want more of those style squirt bottles they still sell them at carpet cleaning suppliers I believe. I reduce my large bottles of solvents/spotter into those tiny bottles and carry them with me on the job.
I first learned this on a 76 440 that sat for 10 years, I kept pouring about 1/2 cup of gas and would make a few pop's, after messing around all afternoon I finally dumped a 1/2 qt down it and she fired right up, lesson learned!
The trick is in knowing how much is a good healthy prime and how much beyond that creates a flame thrower out the carb as soon as it backfires. Also, be careful about splashing gas all over the top of the intake. Get a backfire and you now have a hibachi under the hood. On long sitting engines, I like to keep a sopping wet bath towel ready to go just in case it does backfire and start burning. Cram that down on top of a burning carb and you're saved. Also, for just a little hint of flame in the carb, floor it to open up the air intake and keep cranking. You can suck it back down inside where it belongs but stop as soon as you see it vanish. Don't want to feed more gas to it. Don't panic. As soon as you think you need to dial 911, you just toasted your project because it will be trashed long before the FD shows up. Forget about them and smother it yourself. Even if you tear off your own shirt and jam it in there. Don't panic. Throw the air cleaner assembly back on. Don't panic.
You are correct sir. I've seen seasoned old mechanics that never developed the feel for what's going on when reviving a old engine. I just got a 1960 Imala 348 six pack Impala that has sat for the last twenty years fired up. the owner did not think it possible as the motor had the air cleaner off for the twenty years and was seized tight. the car and under hood had so much pine straw and leaves covering we did not realize it was a six pack engine until we started cleaning it
Hope you get into it and not give up. If your lucky, it could be a seized waterpump, ive had one rust stuck. Or something similar. Thats assuming theres not a rod sticking out of the block. Even seized engines can be unseized, aslong as there is no actual broken parts.
The younger ones have no clue about the older cars. Even the local garage keeps me on call if they get an older car in. Biggest mistake I see is trying to start a car with varnish as fuel. Second biggest mistake they don't check the points or plugs and overlook looking in the fuel tank for rust and other crap. Always put in some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders with some diesel and ATF tranny oil
A few years ago, a coworker had a '77 T bird with the variable venturi carb. As the summer changed to fall, he started riding a cab to work. I asked him what happened to the car, and he said it wouldn't start. I lived about a quarter mile from him so I offered to help him fix it. Upon opening the hood, I saw that the starter solenoid sitting on the fender was absolutely fried. We replaced it, and I asked him to try to start it. He cranked it maybe 15 seconds without touching the gas pedal and I told him to stop. I told him to floor the gas pedal and hold it down for a couple seconds (to set the automatic choke and allow the accelerator pump to fully empty), then let it all the way up for a couple seconds (to allow the accel pump to fully fill again) and then press the gas pedal down halfway before cranking it again. It started instantly. Maybe 3 weeks further, he was riding cabs again. I asked him what happened this time, he said he sold it because "it was too complicated".
I grew up in the points distributor and carb days, I miss them. I also find myself yelling at the tv during revival starts, Lube the cylinders first or risk scratching the walls, or It needs TIMING! or put a wrench on the crankbolt and see if she spins freely for 360! then crank it without the coil and see if it`s making oil pressure!! or It needs more gas! Any engine sitting for a long time, pull the plugs, soak the pistons with Marvel Mystery oil and give it time to penetrate the rings, then turn over by hand. Has worked for many of us Shadetree Mechanics. Keep telling the truth Tony, Respect for passing along the knowledge
the part that I find humorous about all of the revivals is that the cars start but you find five things that need to be fixed. Either a car has terrible blowby, or there's a crack or who knows what else.... ......those things are the reason they were parked! TH-cam operates on several gimmicks. "the something for nothing gimmick" has always been a strong one. And most of the people who watch videos want to imagine they could do something, and they allow that, too. As in, they may even say they'll do something, but never do anything. The "I could do it" and "find something for nothing" part is really strong in those videos.
I always put my nozzle of gas into the carburetor bowl vents so I'm filling it up of course a lot excess goes down on the throttle blades which goes down the intake which of course will get more if I actually get the bowl filled
Next time you have a good example of a car needing to be revived, you should do a video about this while actually demonstrating it in person. I'd live to see it...I'm a younger guy...well 31....who's learning alot from you Tony...thank you brother.
And use two stroke gas. The valves and cylinder walls have likely dried of oil and that 2 stroke gas will add a bit of lubrication for them till oil from the pan can get too them.
90% of the vehicles we had when I was growing up were carb'd engines. my step-dad when dealing with one that had been sitting , he would do the same thing you showed in the video. I learned a lot by watching him. When I either go start my 68 Dart or 79 D-150, I usually prime up the carbs before starting them up. That usually does the trick and they start right off the first key turn. The D-150 is usually a bit more cold-natured, but once it starts to idle, it's good to go. The Dart starts on the first try.
In a word: Yes. In two words: HELL YES! I have to damn near "drown" my '68 Holley to get it started each spring after sitting over the winter. Feels like I'm flooding it, but the spark plugs tell me that this is what it takes. Anyway, thank you, UT!
HI Uncle Tony! On my 87 chevette: As a troubleshooting technique, I just swapped out the computer controlled carburetor to an earlier model non-electronic carb and it runs great. It was operating in open loop mode, meaning full rich. Made it barely run unless WOT. Turns out that every connection in the wire harness is damaged from salt air in Panama City FLA.
As an old timer myself, I would only add that what you are describing is the proper way to do it once you have determined that the engine is capable of starting. For cars that were running when they were parked, this is the proper procedure. For cars that were abandoned, it is necessary to try to figure out why it was abandoned. It may have been abandoned because it would not start at all. One other thing that needs to be stressed for young guys who never worked with carburetors before, is to keep your face and nice full head of hair or beard well away from the opening at the top of the carburetor. Often, these old engines will backfire out of the carb and produce large flames and spray burning fuel. It cab be a spectacular sight but if you set yourself on fire out in some dry field or old barn in the middle of nowhere it could be....you know....bad! So keep your face and hair away and have something to extinguish a fire with. Even a water soaked bath towel will do the trick. Just cover the fire with it. Oh and it is very important to get your fuel container away from the engine when you crank it. Uncle Tony is correct that a squeeze bottle is the way to go. Using a plastic water bottle is hazardous because the flame could travel back into the container which could also be...bad. Really bad. Did I mention eye protection? Yeah, all kinds of stuff can fly around at high velocity when an old engine starts for the first time. Trying to walk back to your car and drive somewhere for help while being unable to see is....bad! Something like that could really ruin your "will it run?" experience.
I know your pain, I left that third world, pathetic excuse of a state for Arizona last December. Hear the horror stories from my buddies and family back there on a daily basis. I empathize heavily with the sane people still there.
@@robd7365 I was 24 years old when I did it after they started doing "your papers, please?" I consider myself lucky that at the time, I was single, had no real baggage, and had amassed a lump sum of money from working at a corporate machine shop. Uhauls are thousands of dollars to leave California with because demand is so high. It's all the more difficult when you've got a family, kids, and tenure at a job, but still, if you want something badly enough, you'll get it.
I watched a bunch of guys under the hood of an 80's Civic, cranking for days trying to get it started. My buddy and I went over to stick our nose in their business. They had everything right, timing, etc but it stunk like gas. We pulled the plugs out, cranked it and watched a ton of fuel pump out of the cylinders. We blew them dry with the compressor and put the plugs in a pile of paper, set said paper on fire to dry out the plugs. We put the plugs in hot, cranked it and it fired right up and purred.
Thank you Tony! I watched 1 last week were everytime the motor would pop a little the guy would pump it 90 mph. Drove me nuts for 20 minutes. I told him to stop flooding it and open it up for air. He got mad and informed me that he knew what he was doing. Then i felt bad for embarrassing him. Ty for what you do.
Don’t forget to cover the information on the old gas in the tank turning to varnish. Just putting the fuel down the carb and turning the key can cause more trouble than you can believe
Yeah, I had a car sitting with old gas for 4.5 years, and then after getting it started on that old gas, drove to Ikea and had meatballs. Then refilled and drove home.
Awesome video, been thinking about stuff like this since my dad started talking about wanting to get a cadillac and he even had a deal set up but the guy who put the engine jn messed it all up. Trans pan with holes in it and drag marks, dropped the oil pan or maybe crushed it with a jack, not entirely sure, and the engine he had ready was full of water and he didn't even know until it was all together. When he told me about it all I wanted to try and make it up to him and fix it up, but he was so frustrated at the time he'd already sold the car off to the first person that asked. I'm in my first year of schooling to become a mechanic, and I love watching videos like these from experienced guys like you, thanks for the info Uncle Tony, got yourself a subscriber and a very grateful somebody.
I couldn't believe it, I went to one of these "will it run" videos you talked about and LITERALLY the FIRST one I watched: the guy, whom was in in his 20's, made every mistake you just covered.
whenever i started my old stingray i always put the pedal to the floor once before i turned the key, and quarter throttle as im cranking. Fired right over every time no matter how long it sat. Same thing for an old 69 gmc fuel truck at the local airport i worked.
We always pulled the plugs, sprayed penetrating oil and let it sit a few days or weeks. Spun it by hand a few times. Then put the plugs back in. I like to use an old spray bottle to semi mist the fuel into the carb. And by all means do it outside.
Thank you for recognizing it's not the younger people's fault! They were never educated about it! How are they supposed to know? Hopefully they will see your videos first so they can become educated!
Step 1 for me with my grandfather's truck has been to clean out the rats' nests out from under the entire hood... and all through the cab... and in the bell housing... LOL
I'm 28 and I picked up a 85 d150 with a slant 6 a few months ago to fix up. Your videos definitely helped me and I have watched all videos involving the slant 6 to get a better idea of what I was getting into. Ended up having to trash the original engine due to previous owner severely overheating it. Picked up another slant with a 4 barrel offenhauser intake and summit m2000 carb and got it dropped in and couldn't be happier with it. I appreciate your videos and time you spend making them!
Sixteen years old with a '60 Corvair Sedan. It's been so difficult learning the quirks of old cars- Corvairs especially. UTG has really helped me along the way though!
I hope that was water in that bottle. Gas is too expensive to clean a table with. In California that was about 30.00 dollars in gas. LOL. Great Video Tony. I know a few young guys that could use this info
"Sports ball" "Get a goalie" "Hit the thing" good to see you're as well versed in sports as I am lol
Haha yes I found that very amusing as I'm exactly the same
It’s because when you’re busy doing something you’re passionate about you don’t have time to spectate someone else do something you’re not at all involved in. Ya, I’m not a sports guy either.
The Steelers played football yesterday, my brother said. It took me like 5 minutes to find the Xfinity doohickey on my TV, shows how much I even watch the damn thing. And the fucking Dolphins game was on anyway! The fact I don't really care anyway made it easy to shut it off and walk away.
What are sports?
Yay! Sportsball!
Starting an old engine? I know this one.. First of all, cut back the black berry bushes, chase the big damn possum out of the engine compartment, clean the squirrel nest off the intake, because there's always a squirrel nest on the intake, yeah I'm going to blame the squirrels too, and check the air filter for a mouse nest. Check to see how bad the mice ate the wiring. Check the oil, what's the oil smell like, taste like and look like, examine the dipstick,was it a milkshake at one time and it settled? pull the plugs, how bad was it burning and on which one? a little lube of your choice into the cylinders, myself I use marvels mystery oil,let that sit for a minute, pull the cap,check and rotor for cracks and corrosion, clean the points. For shits and giggles while you have it apart spin it over by hand and check the timing. Throw all that back together. Get out the squirty bottle of petroleum and fill the carburetor bowl. Hold your breath as you get into a mouse nest smelling vehicle,roll down the window so you can breathe, light up a smoke and Give it a try..
Younger guys (and gals too!) please get into this hobby. I love seeing younger folks restoring, driving and working on old rigs.
We are out here
😎
@@malcombailey8590 I just wish there were more of you. I recently turned 61 with some health issues that make it hard to turn wrenches like I used to. I have a 67 Camaro that I street raced back in the 80s, 71 Cheyenne pickup, 85 K5 Blazer, and 01 WS6 Trans Am. Would love to find a young guy to help me work on them, and I’d be willing to teach them things, but haven’t had much luck finding someone that wants to do it, even when I’d pay them fairly. About to start restoring my Camaro, wondering how I’m gonna get it done without some help. I’d have plenty of help from my racing buddies back in eastern NC where I’m from, but got to stay here in north GA because I’m taking care of my elderly mom.
29 and restoring a Bronco.
they are in this hobby. they can buy a Hemi or a 300 hp V6 and with a cold air kit beat most 14 second musclecars :)
I don’t think a lot of people appreciate what you are actually doing, UT. You’re a good man.
Im 45, I have learned so much from UT, and I hope to continue to learn. I am definitely one who appreciates. Thank you UT
@@davidfarrell1167 I am 44 and have been a mechanic at a dealership since ‘96, at a Chrysler store until 01 and at a Jaguar/Land Rover one since then. I have watched UT’s generation leave the industry and the one below me enter it. The video UT did the other day about the decline of our blue collar, skilled trades workforce was right on the money.
Couldnt agree more.
@@davidfarrell1167 I’m 41 and fix cars as a hobby, after my late Granddad showed me some basics with engines and tools. UT- not only are you a good man, you ARE the man!!!
I'm 22 and I can't explain how much UTG has helped me and motivated me
My son was helping his friend start an old carbureted Mopar. Old dad to the rescue since I started when it was just carburetors (car dealership). They were giving little squirts of starting fluid. I made him grab the small gas can and told him to flood it, the look on their faces was priceless. I stuck a screw driver in the choke to hold it open as I sat in the car cranking and playing with the throttle. They questioned my sanity when I told them to flood it again. It started and ran like crap and I had to keep it running for awhile playing with the throttle until it would idle on it's own. They couldn't believe it started thinking it was seriously flooded. After it warmed up they asked me why it sounds so rough. I told them if they sat around for 50 years they wouldn't move to good either. I then used a spray bottle and kept spraying water down the carb. Then I tried to choke it out at half throttle lifting the rag before it stalled. It ran much better, that's when I told them they should probably give it a fresh tune up and oil change. They looked at me as if I was a magician.
@@skidooer583 It's like steam cleaning the cylinders, helps loosen and remove carbon deposits.
water is the more environmentally safe alternative to atf lol
A super important tip for a long sitting engine: Tune the motor over by hand. Ive had valves hanging open from crud.
I have seen engine damaged from this both piston to valve contact
And pushrods bent
I have found it a good practice to pull
The valve cover and give the valves a light tap with a hammer to verify they are not stuck
I'm guessing there was interference hahaha
Marvel in the cylinders will help with this
Yeah, I do this working up to my first start in the Spring to start building oil pressure to avoid a dry start. For new guys: Remember to unplug the coil for safety!
Spraying a little fogging oil in the cylinders never hurts! Definitely crank by hand first!
Perfect illustration of the difference between a “mechanic” and a “technician”. This gentleman is a mechanic.
Fifteen Years Ago my brother handed me an old briefcase that contained a timing light, vacuum/ fuel pressure gauge, dwell tach and numerous other tools from the Analog days . I told him to keep them for one of his two sons . A two year old and a four year old. He laughed and said they will never need them because the tools were obsolete. I took the tools home and placed the case in a filing cabinet I had converted to hold various tool cases. Well, last week I got a visit from his youngest son. He asked me to help him work on a 64 Chevy Van he had purchased. I walked him over to the filing cabinet and handed the lad his dad's briefcase. I told him to go home and ask his dad to give him a hand. Also, to make certain to show his dad the briefcase. I added that If the two of them needed a hand I would be more than happy to assist. Got a call one hour later from my brother. He laughed and admitted to his error in judgement. So, never say never folks.
Thank you for this
Working in the auto parts industry I was "the carburated guy", my buddy was "the Japanese guy" and our mgr. was "the euro guy". Think I had the coolest title.
You can get squirt bottles in the BBQ area at Walmart for a buck.
I love to see someone passing on the knowledge! Keep it up, UT.
Understand however, this is a skill developed over many years. So don't worry if you can't do it the first time like UT or Thunderhead 289, just practice, that's all.
I was in there the other day. I experienced what is best described as an academic renaissance of sorts. The import performance aisle. I never saw so many LED's, stick on decor and spoilers in my life. They even had skateboards, beef jerky and t-shirts. Forget the fact that they didn't have e-clips in the store or even know what one was
You can save that buck or two and repurpose a plastic soda or oil bottle .
Just need to put a hole in the cap of whatever size you deem necessary for your purpose .
Most old cars seem to have a few empties laying about , anyway , and , any reasonably sharp object can be used to make the hole .
I have even seen some deluxe versions where they actually used a drill bit instead of a pocket knife or a random sharp rock .
@@kaboom4679 😂
Im the euro guy and I kinda hate it because I have to tell them (my fellow enthusiast customers) not to buy most of what I sell
@@andrewgarcia3136
Totally get it. A buddy helped me buy a fixer upper 1979 BMW 750L for $1k. Parts were $2500 and it sold for $13k. Expensive and hard to work on. New models are considerably worse.
I'm 28, just bought a 76 GMC C15 with a 350sbc and TH400 that's sat for 3 years after a hard life. After replacing the stupid adapter plated 20" alloy wheels and got some old style steel wheels I've been doing other TLC work like making sure the QJet is in good order and I flushed the coolant system of all the rust, replaced coolant temp sending unit.
HEET in the gas tank to catch any water along with some fresh gas with Marvel Mystery Oil, and a squirt bottle into the vent tube and down the gullet really saved me.
Now I need to redo the exhaust pipe and patch the body. I'm glad I have my Dad and guys like Uncle Tony teaching the new generation.
TH 400 is one hell of an automatic.
I bought a Old car this summer. Cleaned up the Ignition system very carefully it was alot work. My fuel pump started leaking so Replaced that. Ohh some car have no Fuel filter from the Tank. Carburator gets full corrosion I know one guy that used Vacuume to clean it out.
I went to college for mechanics and its not interesting or easy but going over the Basics is basic maintenance. Timing chain slop within spec, compression, engine connectors clean. At some point gaskets need done but is intake vacuume hanging in there. Back in the 90s i had duel exaust put on mine i could not get power the cam was weak. GM is awsome
20 in wheels ugh God no
What are prices like on old cars in the US at the moment? Here in Australia prices for old cars with rear wheel drive and carburettor have gone stupidly expensive. Not sure if it's covid or retirees reliving their youth, or people hiding their savings in old cars.
@@BL2197 I paid 2500 dollars for this truck, I've seen ones in better shape go for a lot more. This one was a little beat up and needed floorboards badly.
Good video. I like to add a little 2 stroke oil to the gas in the carb for a little lubricant for the upper cylinder components if it’s been some years sitting
I second the 2 stroke.
Mustie1 does that.
Great tip thanks
Thanks for the tip. Getting my old ass Elky back on the road. I've been looking for squirt bottles
Me too. I just have the leaf blower gas handy for a squirt bottle. Can't hurt.
Its nice to ask the older generation questions and get respectful answers. If they are crabby and negative I dont help them when they need help to post their parts / cars for sale on Marketplace LOL.
Agreed, they act like the younger generation are idiots and simultaneously can’t click 3 buttons to complete a basic task on a computer. If you look at both tasks, the computer one is objectively far easier, and only one party is trying to learn something new.
@@bannedbycommieyoutube5time920 Some of us can rebuild an old carbureted engine down to bare block and have it start within the first second, AND have computer certs training others in software. One does not exclude the other. Attitude is of all ages.
What I don't understand is why people don't even pull the valve covers which in my opinion is mandatory on an unknown history of an engine.
I pull the plugs and air cleaner, then the valve covers. Some PB blaster or equivalent down the cylinders. Then some fresh oil onto rockers and down on the push rods to the lifters and cam. That way you achieve a basic lubrication.
Now I try turning over the crank by hand a couple of times and watch the rockers if everything moves as it should. If successful I now turn the engine over with the starter until I get oil pressure and look for spark. Plugs back in and maybe covers back on if everything looks okay. NOW your procedure follows.
I absolutely don't want the hard hits by firing cylinders on the dry main bearings and rods and fast spinning dry parts etc. which might stay dry because of something is bad or clogged in the oiling system while the engine revs up.
So I don't really agree with your procedure without doing some work in advance.
I think he assumed that was already done, as you are quite right.
The fuelling is the last step. If everything has been done as you outlined, not only will it start, but it will keep running, and not have parts blow up.
One aspect of Uncle Tony’s videos I really appreciate is that he doesn’t feel the need to explain completely how an engine works before giving tips on working on them. So many other channels must think we’re all first timers because they always give lessons leading with “every engine is an air pump.”
Which is only true on the surface. The whole "glorified air pump" gets more wrong the more in detail you get.
Yes I scream at those revival videos too. Another thing that pisses me off is when they got a half assed battery and it’s clearly not spinning the engine fast enough. Get a good battery charger on that thing immediately and put it on boost when you’re gonna try to start it and get it properly spinning!!!
Your talking about Dylan.I was screaming for him to open the throttle!!!! Still great that the kids are trying 😊
I bought a Caddy 500 cid about 10 years ago. it was on the ground when I bought it. When I got home my brother and I decided to see if it would run in the back of my truck., so we hooked up a battery and dumped gas down the carb. I was controlling the throttle and my brother was using a screw driver to bump the starter. I opened the throttle and all of a sudden it gave the loudest back fired out the exhaust manifolds I've ever heard. I was standing on the ground on one side of the truck and my brother on the other. We ducked and when we poked our heads back up we were looking over the engine at each other with this stupid shocked look on our faces and burst out laughing at each other. we both almost had heart attacks that day.
Im in my mid 30s. Videos like this make me happy that I had my grandfather around to show me things like this. Learned the EFI stuff on my own. He was never a fan of it.
Making sure a motor will turn by hand first is also important. If it still doesn't turn after applying reasonable force, just pull the valve cover(s) off because there's probably a stuck valve. I've seen alot of bent pushrods and some broken valves on these revivals. If the valve train is clear then you gotta look in the cylinders and make sure one isn't full of debris.
Constructive criticism is a lost art.....thank you Mr Tony 😉
Back in 2014 I woke up my dad's 1971 340 Duster after sleeping since 1990. Other than lazy lifters from keeping the valves open for 24 years, it fired up pretty easy. The thing that helped was being in a garage since new.
My old man, who's an actual OLD MAN, used to stand around watching me try to start my junk and just give me rations of crap, "GIVE IT SOME GAS! THEY SELL IT BY THE GALLON!!", then elbow me out of the way, grab the bottle and the linkage and make shit happen. There might be a fireball to fill the entire shop or a backfire that shook the windows but whatever woreout 440 or 383 would wake up and start running and he'd look at me like, "what are ya' scared of boy?"
We woke up a 318 in a pickup recently and I think he was disappointed it didn't put up more of a fight. 86 years old and still enjoys a good fireball
What I've found is fuel pump diaphragm can really go bad after many years . Great video.
its the residue petroleum all fuels leaves, makes things gunk up becoming like tree sap. if the vehicle is been sitting for more than 5 years, do a deep clean of the unit before starting, could suck in gunk and burn out
Another note,
most carbs have vent tubes that lead directly into the float bowl. You can prime the carb, by filling the float bowl through that vent tube, using a squirt bottle. I have done this many times, and it usually gives just enough run time for the fuel to make it up from the tank, or whatever portable fuel cell you may be using. It will also alow you to increase the rpms with out continuously squirting fuel into the carb. This is important to get oil slinging onto the camshaft, which is also usually mostly dry when an engine has been sitting for years.
Yep, I use a spray can lid to fill the bowl if I don't have any bottles handy
Yes, I fill the bowl too. And make sure I can see the squirter works. Then check the spark, battery, compression. Once I had dissasembled a motorcycle engine to bare block halves, needed a crack welded, then reassembled and started and ran on first kick. My fellow motorcycleclub member watching this, who had spent 4 months getting his bike to run unsuccessfully, gave up on old motorcycles that day.
Its all about going through the steps and checking off all checkboxes. No need to craaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaank.
Glad you said that. I do the same with a little oil mix to rejuvenate that dry accelerator pump. Also it greatly reduces fire hazard if a valve is sticking and backfire happens when someone is dumping gas in it. No need for that. I just cringe when a young uninformed person is furiously pumping the gas pedal on a bone dry carburetor,
@@richceglinski7543 if your fire starts on the carb a good policy is set air cleaner on top so no open fire could quickly start and then if you have fire, turn the engine over that will suck the fire in
0:30
Hit the thing !!
Yep that's about as much excitement as I show for any sport without an engine.
Truth. Years working on carburated marine engines. I got to work on my EFI and electronic ignition Ford 300 engine. What a dream. Just get in the right neighborhood and computer took over. Still points and carb like riding a bike. It's not a science. It's a learned art form.
I always fill the fuel bowl through the bowl vent first. In that process you get enough "spillage" to prime the throttle bores. I usually let them struggle to run until they get oil pressure. Once oil pressure is there I immediately take the rpm's to 1200 or above until normal engine temp is reached.
bought a 66 pontiac about this time last year. In the past year I've gone from not even knowing how the carburetor works to where I am now in the middle of a DIY cam swap. It has been a challenging learning curve because as a 30-something I never had to fiddle with this tech on cars growing up. But in addition to being half the point, learning is almost necessary because there are fewer and fewer places that will even consider touching the old cars, and if you do find one the labor rates have not become any cheaper.
that explains my old gen 3 firebird ,it is slow to start and takes a bit of spin and prime just like you said thanks time to getter done
Is it carbed? The quardajet I had on my thirdgen had leaking bowls, needed some epoxy inside the bowls, as its porous, and develops small leaks in the bowl casting.. It leaked down so it didnt gave enough fuel to fire, needed to run the pump some first. Epoxy fixed it. Instant starts after that.
I taught my boys and their cousin exactly what you described on a 75 Monte Carlo that had been sitting for 15 years. First prime it hit a few times. Second prime it hit and coughed. Third prime it ran for a good 4 to 5 seconds. Thanks Uncle Tony for reminding me that old knowledge is valuable knowledge. Not everyone cares to tune with a lap top. But hey, to each their own. Take care. See ya tomorrow.
Dude how come Uncle Tony always smells like raw gasoline?
"I don't know but yeah I noticed that too!"
😂😂👍🏼🇺🇸 Great advice UTG!
"Crank it and crank it and crank it and it... and never open the throttle." For years, since I began driving in the '60's (Mopars, of course), get in, pump the gas pedal twice, open to 1/4 throttle, turn the key. The hardest thing for me to learn with fuel injection was to keep my foot all the peal, just turn the key and let the computer do its thing. EDIT: On the other hand, after all these years I finally have a fuel injected Hemi. 😁
The best tutorial on GAK I've ever seen.
dont forget filling the carb through the float bowl vent. to give it something to run on and wet the accelerater pump, float operation on Quadrajets can be cheked through the vent tube using a spray can straw or a bic pen insert. if it rises on it's own after applying light pressure usually there is boyancy for the float to work correctly.
if flames are shooting from the intake or exhaust , Timing light comes out and TDC should be confirmed. A thumb over the number one spark plug hole can help you find the compression stroke.
A business card or match book is usually enough to thickness to get most points adjusted , The abrasive on matchbooks is also useful for cleaning points in a pinch.
Mechanical fuel pumps don't like ethonal fuel, a ruptured diaphram can put fuel into your crankcase washing out bearings.
Sometimes the sitting has other fun things that can be a head scratcher to a young guy as well.
I remember going to Dad's house in 1984 to bring my 69 Camaro to Montana after the family grew out of the Datsun pickup. It had been sitting for several years and started but wouldn't shift into 1st gear (Muncie M21). Dad walked by and said "It acts like the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel". So I crawled under, split the 2 piece lakewood bellhousing and pried the disc loose. Drove the car 180 miles without a hiccup. Just last year my son put in a Tremec 6 speed behind the 468 big block in it.
He ran enough old cars and trucks to get the "education" from my Dad and I. Now he is teaching his son.
Thanks again ! Always learning something on your channel. I'm an old driveway mechanic (65 years old) and think I've forgotten more than I've ever known about cars. I have a 1971 Dodge D100 with a 318 and four on the floor. Been sitting a couple years now after having a heck of a time trying to get it started and having other projects but have a much better understanding of what to do from this and other videos of yours I've watched. Thanks for all the great insight.
Dodge went to electronic in 1972 so you still have points. Get a thin strip of 300-400 grit emery cloth and fold it in half, grit side out. Pop the distributor cap off and gently open the points. If they're already open, bump the engine until the points are off the peak of the cam (closed). Put your folded emery cloth in there and let the points close on it. Pull it out. Repeat a few times, and you can check for continuity. Inside the cap use a flat screwdriver to scrape the corrosion off the metal contacts that connect to the wire towers. Put it back together and check for spark. If the color of the spark is orange replace the condenser, you want blue sparks. If you have continuity across the points and no spark check the white ceramic resistor on the firewall. My memory says they're five ohms, it's there to drop the voltage so the points last longer you can put a jumper on the terminals and some starter circuits bypass it while cranking to make up for the voltage drop caused by the demand of the starter. A 1971 will not like gasohol, you'll need to feed it non-ethyl. I like to prime them with a splash out of the jug for the chainsaw, that little bit of 2 cycle oil helps lube the valve guides and rings until the oil pump starts working.
@@Techno_Nomadic Thanks for the advice.
Excellent advice!! I'm a big Dodge guy!! I currently have four, all 2wd, 1984 Dodge, 318, 1986 Dodge (seriously rust free) 360, 1991 Dodge 318, 1996 Dodge 360 (extended cab) rust free!! All run, except the 1984!! Parts truck!!
That's great info to pass along Tony. I remember these procedures as I'm the same age as you, Tony, Lol. But as you say many younger folks have never even driven a stick shift let alone a carburetor car. I really miss the simplicity of the carburetor, non computer cars. A few years back we tried selling my wife's Toyota 2000 Solara V6 with a 5 speed manual. No one wanted it because it was a stick shift! We eventually sold it for half of what the automatics were going for.
You're Right TONY, IT Makes it easier on the value train against long-term or short-term storage when it comes to first startup. No fatigue on the value train. think about it
Keep a fire extinguisher handy and do it outside if possible.
UT, thanks for keeping it real. I learned the trade in the 70's, when a tune up required more than plugs and carbs had to be adjusted. I left the trade professionally BC (before computers). Now just my drag car and hot rods for me! Thanks again, hope the young people are paying attention.
Thankfully I grew up with my Pop and Grandpop building muscle cars my first car was a 69 C-10 I bought from. A farmer. Pulled the 305 and dropped in a 427 with a 400 turbo trans. Now I am working on my Pops 81 f-250. Has a decent 302 but found a 429 boss for her. Love your videos brother, keeping us young folk informed on stuff even my Pop forgot since he left the game. We know the videos are a pain so thanks again.
Well said Tony! Ive found myself as a ‘young guy’ making these mistake even tho I’ve been tinkering with carb’d engines for 15+ years. A good reminder, as this isn’t something we all face each day.
Watch for backfire, Jacko. You may be unpleasantly surprised with a 🔥.
I have resurrected more than a few cars over the years. 20 years ago, when my daughter was 17, a neighbor offered her a ‘79 Dodge Aspen, 225. It had been sitting in their yard for 6 years, untouched. I told my daughter that we needed to see if it would wake up and move under its own power before we accepted. After a wasp-killing and checking vital fluids, we set up an old lawn mower gas tank for fuel, put in a fresh battery borrowed from my truck and cranked. It woke up, but not happy at first. After several more startings, it was sounding much better!
She and I did a lot of work on it, if I was getting greasy, so was she. It was her go-to vehicle for years. She learned A LOT about older cars and helped me go through several engines. Good times!
Listen! This is how its done. Im glad I had an uncle Bobby who is much like uncle Tony. He let me fix my car in his garage when I was young. I thought it was because he thought I was awesome, but in fact it was so he could keep an eye on me... and come over and fix things right when I was going off course hahah.
I revived a 1993 240sx that had been sitting for 5 years. Such a good feeling. It’s now garage kept and has seen over 10,000 miles in the past 2 years
KA24 lasts forever
240 had a great look
That’s good to hear. Love those cars myself and find it a shame how many people my age ruined them either from crashing/ over modding. If you want one that hasn’t been abused too much the automatics seem to be it.
@@MultiRokusho this is my 4th 240, my previous 3 were all factory automatics, they were of varying condition lol. I’m taking good care of my current chassis. No overfenders or bozo modifications
@@MultiRokusho You c an always export a JDM silvia or 180sx and many from Japan are in very nice cosmetic and mechanical shape
In case you dont know how helpful this video is, I want to tell you. As millennial I need to start an old RV with no old timers around to talk to about how to get it going. This video has kept alive the older knowledge. Thanks again.
I normally spray WD-40 into the plug holes and let it sit a few hours. Then turn it over by hand, if it does that then I change the oil and filter. Once it starts and shows oil pressure I hold it at 2000 to 2500 RPM to lube the camshaft lobes and lifters for a min. Then I shut it off so it doesn't overheat.
Watching this video right now smoking a cigarette in my garage looking at my old motorcycle I haven't started in many years.
Some day Mr Suzuki...
You get really good at priming and throttle position if you own an old kickstart harley. Well, any kickstart bike really. Take the electric start away and if forces you to become much more focused on the machine.
Yep, that was my experience too. I learned the 3 starting scenarios, hot, cold, heatsoaked, one off which always worked. No problem touring country to country ones man and machine is one, even with old stuff.
It just makes sense! Good refresher.
I restored a 75 F350 truck that sat for 20 years. There was absolutely no rust inside the engine. Did a lot of work on the top side of the engine. Didn't have to rebuild the heads, but I hot tanked them when I pulled them off. I had to pull the heads off to remove the exhaust manifolds. Every single bolt broke off to the exhaust manifold. Used my milling machine to cut the bolts out, and then re-tapped the holes. Other than that, the rocker tubes, rockers, valve springs, and valves were all in terrific condition. I even hot tanked the intake manifold.
I am always yelling at them , GIVE IT MORE GAS!!" lol. I learned this with my hot rods sitting over winter here in Canada, never mind 30 years. It always used to surprise me how much gas it took to get them going in the spring.
This is really funny...'cos I do the same thing. What absolutely appalls me, is that much of the time the oil is not changed nor cycled through the oil galleries before they try to start the old engine.
Also , do your prime with a 2 cycle mix. to add a little lube.
Marvel Mystery Oil and fuel, 1:25, respectively. Sufficient for combustion chamber/cylinder lube, but plenty of fuel to light it up. There will be smoke, but only for a minute after it starts. Old school mechanic from Europe turned me on to that and it always works, as long as compression is decent and ignition is sending spark.
As a young fella myself ive always been blessed to have a lot of old mechanic friends in my life. I don't know any general master mechanics I.E. someone like Car Wizard, most mechanics I know do have the essential skills but specialize in there own niche: Euro cars, JDM cars, transmission builders, engine builders/machinists, moto mechanics, etc.
Gotta take in all the wisdom you can. Having good friends like that who are passionate about the work they put out and willing to pass on their knowledge is so valuable, you'll never learn from a book or a classroom what you would just working next to someone under the hood.
P.S. if you want more of those style squirt bottles they still sell them at carpet cleaning suppliers I believe. I reduce my large bottles of solvents/spotter into those tiny bottles and carry them with me on the job.
I first learned this on a 76 440 that sat for 10 years, I kept pouring about 1/2 cup of gas and would make a few pop's, after messing around all afternoon I finally dumped a 1/2 qt down it and she fired right up, lesson learned!
The trick is in knowing how much is a good healthy prime and how much beyond that creates a flame thrower out the carb as soon as it backfires. Also, be careful about splashing gas all over the top of the intake. Get a backfire and you now have a hibachi under the hood. On long sitting engines, I like to keep a sopping wet bath towel ready to go just in case it does backfire and start burning. Cram that down on top of a burning carb and you're saved. Also, for just a little hint of flame in the carb, floor it to open up the air intake and keep cranking. You can suck it back down inside where it belongs but stop as soon as you see it vanish. Don't want to feed more gas to it.
Don't panic. As soon as you think you need to dial 911, you just toasted your project because it will be trashed long before the FD shows up. Forget about them and smother it yourself. Even if you tear off your own shirt and jam it in there. Don't panic. Throw the air cleaner assembly back on. Don't panic.
Good advice my man!
30 years old. Daily drive a 66 Chevy truck. Had it ten years. Love that thing.
You are correct sir. I've seen seasoned old mechanics that never developed the feel for what's going on when reviving a old engine. I just got a 1960 Imala 348 six pack Impala that has sat for the last twenty years fired up. the owner did not think it possible as the motor had the air cleaner off for the twenty years and was seized tight. the car and under hood had so much pine straw and leaves covering we did not realize it was a six pack engine until we started cleaning it
Hope you get into it and not give up. If your lucky, it could be a seized waterpump, ive had one rust stuck. Or something similar. Thats assuming theres not a rod sticking out of the block. Even seized engines can be unseized, aslong as there is no actual broken parts.
The younger ones have no clue about the older cars. Even the local garage keeps me on call if they get an older car in. Biggest mistake I see is trying to start a car with varnish as fuel. Second biggest mistake they don't check the points or plugs and overlook looking in the fuel tank for rust and other crap. Always put in some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders with some diesel and ATF tranny oil
A few years ago, a coworker had a '77 T bird with the variable venturi carb. As the summer changed to fall, he started riding a cab to work. I asked him what happened to the car, and he said it wouldn't start. I lived about a quarter mile from him so I offered to help him fix it. Upon opening the hood, I saw that the starter solenoid sitting on the fender was absolutely fried. We replaced it, and I asked him to try to start it. He cranked it maybe 15 seconds without touching the gas pedal and I told him to stop. I told him to floor the gas pedal and hold it down for a couple seconds (to set the automatic choke and allow the accelerator pump to fully empty), then let it all the way up for a couple seconds (to allow the accel pump to fully fill again) and then press the gas pedal down halfway before cranking it again. It started instantly. Maybe 3 weeks further, he was riding cabs again. I asked him what happened this time, he said he sold it because "it was too complicated".
I grew up in the points distributor and carb days, I miss them. I also find myself yelling at the tv during revival starts,
Lube the cylinders first or risk scratching the walls,
or It needs TIMING!
or put a wrench on the crankbolt and see if she spins freely for 360! then crank it without the coil and see if it`s making oil pressure!!
or It needs more gas!
Any engine sitting for a long time, pull the plugs, soak the pistons with Marvel Mystery oil and give it time to penetrate the rings, then turn over by hand. Has worked for many of us Shadetree Mechanics.
Keep telling the truth Tony, Respect for passing along the knowledge
the part that I find humorous about all of the revivals is that the cars start but you find five things that need to be fixed. Either a car has terrible blowby, or there's a crack or who knows what else....
......those things are the reason they were parked!
TH-cam operates on several gimmicks. "the something for nothing gimmick" has always been a strong one. And most of the people who watch videos want to imagine they could do something, and they allow that, too. As in, they may even say they'll do something, but never do anything. The "I could do it" and "find something for nothing" part is really strong in those videos.
you must be fun at parties...
Imagine the dumb stare you would get if you mention the choke. 🤣
Yup. Also don't be looking down the carb bores when modulating the throttle. You might get a lean backfire!
Hey that's how I trim my beard
those are called a brow raiser
If your short on cash for a haircut though...
I always put my nozzle of gas into the carburetor bowl vents so I'm filling it up of course a lot excess goes down on the throttle blades which goes down the intake which of course will get more if I actually get the bowl filled
Awesome video. Great to see the old guys passing on useful knowledge in a encouraging manner. Need more people like this 👍
Next time you have a good example of a car needing to be revived, you should do a video about this while actually demonstrating it in person. I'd live to see it...I'm a younger guy...well 31....who's learning alot from you Tony...thank you brother.
And use two stroke gas. The valves and cylinder walls have likely dried of oil and that 2 stroke gas will add a bit of lubrication for them till oil from the pan can get too them.
I wish i could have one day with this man jus to soak up knowledge from him an to get help with my 318 that i carb swapped
A young guy is not fully experienced until he has tried to start a car with the timing way off and shoots a giant fireball out of the carburetor.
90% of the vehicles we had when I was growing up were carb'd engines. my step-dad when dealing with one that had been sitting , he would do the same thing you showed in the video. I learned a lot by watching him. When I either go start my 68 Dart or 79 D-150, I usually prime up the carbs before starting them up. That usually does the trick and they start right off the first key turn. The D-150 is usually a bit more cold-natured, but once it starts to idle, it's good to go. The Dart starts on the first try.
In a word: Yes. In two words: HELL YES! I have to damn near "drown" my '68 Holley to get it started each spring after sitting over the winter. Feels like I'm flooding it, but the spark plugs tell me that this is what it takes. Anyway, thank you, UT!
Wow! Thanks for the info!! I appreciate videos like this.
I have been watching you for years, and I'm starting to think you do know a lot of stuff. 👍
HI Uncle Tony!
On my 87 chevette:
As a troubleshooting technique, I just swapped out the computer controlled carburetor to an earlier model non-electronic carb and it runs great. It was operating in open loop mode, meaning full rich. Made it barely run unless WOT.
Turns out that every connection in the wire harness is damaged from salt air in Panama City FLA.
As an old timer myself, I would only add that what you are describing is the proper way to do it once you have determined that the engine is capable of starting. For cars that were running when they were parked, this is the proper procedure. For cars that were abandoned, it is necessary to try to figure out why it was abandoned. It may have been abandoned because it would not start at all. One other thing that needs to be stressed for young guys who never worked with carburetors before, is to keep your face and nice full head of hair or beard well away from the opening at the top of the carburetor. Often, these old engines will backfire out of the carb and produce large flames and spray burning fuel. It cab be a spectacular sight but if you set yourself on fire out in some dry field or old barn in the middle of nowhere it could be....you know....bad! So keep your face and hair away and have something to extinguish a fire with. Even a water soaked bath towel will do the trick. Just cover the fire with it. Oh and it is very important to get your fuel container away from the engine when you crank it. Uncle Tony is correct that a squeeze bottle is the way to go. Using a plastic water bottle is hazardous because the flame could travel back into the container which could also be...bad. Really bad. Did I mention eye protection? Yeah, all kinds of stuff can fly around at high velocity when an old engine starts for the first time. Trying to walk back to your car and drive somewhere for help while being unable to see is....bad! Something like that could really ruin your "will it run?" experience.
8:10 "Way too much fuel, perfect!"
I’m in California and Tony just squirted $17 in gasoline. 😮
No shit huh!! Newsom need’s to find the Exit door and kick rocks!!!
lol
I know your pain, I left that third world, pathetic excuse of a state for Arizona last December. Hear the horror stories from my buddies and family back there on a daily basis. I empathize heavily with the sane people still there.
@@robd7365 I was 24 years old when I did it after they started doing "your papers, please?" I consider myself lucky that at the time, I was single, had no real baggage, and had amassed a lump sum of money from working at a corporate machine shop. Uhauls are thousands of dollars to leave California with because demand is so high. It's all the more difficult when you've got a family, kids, and tenure at a job, but still, if you want something badly enough, you'll get it.
@@vandalvetteworks8008 Don't worry, Arizona is slowly turning blue because of Californians.
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge Tony, thx.
Scott Newstead over at Cold War Motors invented the "will it run" youtube video. AWESOME CHANNEL, definitely worth subscribing.
I watched a bunch of guys under the hood of an 80's Civic, cranking for days trying to get it started. My buddy and I went over to stick our nose in their business. They had everything right, timing, etc but it stunk like gas. We pulled the plugs out, cranked it and watched a ton of fuel pump out of the cylinders. We blew them dry with the compressor and put the plugs in a pile of paper, set said paper on fire to dry out the plugs. We put the plugs in hot, cranked it and it fired right up and purred.
Thank you Tony! I watched 1 last week were everytime the motor would pop a little the guy would pump it 90 mph. Drove me nuts for 20 minutes. I told him to stop flooding it and open it up for air. He got mad and informed me that he knew what he was doing. Then i felt bad for embarrassing him. Ty for what you do.
Oh so true,39 years wrenching for a living carburetors was it along with drum brakes so many vids are made by younger folks. Thumbs up
Don’t forget to cover the information on the old gas in the tank turning to varnish. Just putting the fuel down the carb and turning the key can cause more trouble than you can believe
Yeah, I had a car sitting with old gas for 4.5 years, and then after getting it started on that old gas, drove to Ikea and had meatballs. Then refilled and drove home.
Awesome video, been thinking about stuff like this since my dad started talking about wanting to get a cadillac and he even had a deal set up but the guy who put the engine jn messed it all up. Trans pan with holes in it and drag marks, dropped the oil pan or maybe crushed it with a jack, not entirely sure, and the engine he had ready was full of water and he didn't even know until it was all together.
When he told me about it all I wanted to try and make it up to him and fix it up, but he was so frustrated at the time he'd already sold the car off to the first person that asked.
I'm in my first year of schooling to become a mechanic, and I love watching videos like these from experienced guys like you, thanks for the info Uncle Tony, got yourself a subscriber and a very grateful somebody.
I couldn't believe it, I went to one of these "will it run" videos you talked about and LITERALLY the FIRST one I watched: the guy, whom was in in his 20's, made every mistake you just covered.
This video came at the right time. A few days before i needed the info. Not just after, and not years before. Thx!
whenever i started my old stingray i always put the pedal to the floor once before i turned the key, and quarter throttle as im cranking. Fired right over every time no matter how long it sat. Same thing for an old 69 gmc fuel truck at the local airport i worked.
We always pulled the plugs, sprayed penetrating oil and let it sit a few days or weeks. Spun it by hand a few times. Then put the plugs back in. I like to use an old spray bottle to semi mist the fuel into the carb. And by all means do it outside.
I had manual chokes on my Chevy 250 cu. in. I-6 engines. I learned over time how fast to open the choke
as the cylinders started to fire.
Thank you for recognizing it's not the younger people's fault! They were never educated about it! How are they supposed to know? Hopefully they will see your videos first so they can become educated!
Never heard it explained outright I just subconsciously follow that routine, great explanation!
Step 1 for me with my grandfather's truck has been to clean out the rats' nests out from under the entire hood... and all through the cab... and in the bell housing... LOL
I'm 28 and I picked up a 85 d150 with a slant 6 a few months ago to fix up. Your videos definitely helped me and I have watched all videos involving the slant 6 to get a better idea of what I was getting into. Ended up having to trash the original engine due to previous owner severely overheating it. Picked up another slant with a 4 barrel offenhauser intake and summit m2000 carb and got it dropped in and couldn't be happier with it. I appreciate your videos and time you spend making them!
Information like this is invaluable as I work on bringing my 73 New Yorker back from the dead after close to 15 years. Thank you!!!
Sixteen years old with a '60 Corvair Sedan. It's been so difficult learning the quirks of old cars- Corvairs especially. UTG has really helped me along the way though!
I hope that was water in that bottle. Gas is too expensive to clean a table with. In California that was about 30.00 dollars in gas. LOL. Great Video Tony. I know a few young guys that could use this info
Probably not? Unless that was a stunt carb and didn't matter if it got rusted?
No car made after 2006 is going to be able to be revived in 40 years.
That's a depressing thought.. But I can't argue with it.
It's cute that you think you'll be able to buy gasoline in 40 years.