I use a very similar method but bend the wire up into the center hole in the points. The outer tube is glued in place and covered with scenic. It's a simple method that works as well now as it always has. Good on you for showing everyone. Cheers!
Glad to see a foray back in OO. Nothing against N, it's just a bit small for me. I think this is the first time I've seen an instruction video on wire and tube turnout controls - thanks for doing this! Simple and effective.
Simple is good, well done. I've had success using brake/gear cables from bicycles either new from the shop, or scavenged from an old bike. They are flexible so can have the control knobs (good idea the pencil sections) located exactly where required. Cheers, David, Tasmania.
Back in the 1970's, a hobby shop used bent down nails instead of a pencil, hooked to the wire. It protruded up near the edge of the board. It was neat for a similar switching layout. That was back before Tortoise switch machines and plastic hand throws.
Thank you Mike for reminding us of this low cost turnout control method. For those in North America, Hobby Lobby has similar components, in addition to the floral wire, K&S brass wire and tubes are available. BTW the jewelery beads also make great handles.
Great solution again. Not for every brand though, a brand like Roco has points that wont stay put unless a manual throw or point motor is attached. Easy solution for that would be a screw at the end to turn it in the desired position and lock it in place.
I have been reviewing all the videos on this topic as my layout does not presently have point motors. “Just like that” Tommy must have had a hand in this. 👍💥🔥
Well done Mike, how wonderfully simple! I'd have thought Doug could have 3D printed some pretty knobs rather than using a pencil - but the main thing is that it works😃
Sometimes, old tech is simpler :o) Thinking back to about 60 years ago, the advice then was to cut back the tube slightly and include an 'omega loop' in line somewhere along the wire. This acted as a safety feature if the wire was pushed or pulled too enthusiastically - in normal use the loop just transmitted the force in either direction, but if there was excessive movement the loop either closed up or opened up to compensate, protecting the point. A tip I was recently given for tension lock couplings (but haven't tried yet) was to glue a magnet to the end of a tube/pencil or something and then you just dip it on to the top of the couplings and it will lift both link bars. I suppose you could just magnetise an ordinary screw or nail!
Thanks for posting this video. I've just done this on my OO inglenook this afternoon. A length of plastruct tube and two lengths of brass wire set me back the huge total of £2.06 from my local model shop (The Model Shop, Northampton) and works beautifully. I used hot glue to attach the tube to the board and cut down some spare dowels from flat-pack furniture for the knobs on the end of the wire.
Hi Mike i love this sort of thing,no need for expensive point motors and wiring is there! I have seen this before some where,but this person had his mounted under the baseboard.But both are great ideas.Playing with trains should be fun and easy😀
N is great but since I have H0 and OO, I am glad with this video. Great idea for a remote control of switches 👍 I didn't know about the smaller frog in Peco points, I should have checked that before buying my Hornby points. The frog is indeed bigger and it seems quite elevated, wheelsets with larger flanges tend to jump over them... 🐸
This is a great idea, love it, defo gonna do this to my own when I get started. Glad ur back to making a inglenook shunting layout in 00... but loving the N too... keep these grwat videos and tips coming please, my fav model railways channel... the simple things are the best ideas 👌🏻
Yes! Perfect. RC airplanes use this system and there so many lengths and diameters. They come as a set wire and tube you don't need to buy separate. If you wanted, you could drive them with a simple servo and servo test controller. It would better to have the servos away from the switch so they are easier to access and no long runs of wires. Running them under the table and even being able to have flexibility of the tubes leaves lots of options. I think you could go up to 3' with no issue as long as you secure your tubing.
I bought some model aircraft actuator wire and found it too hard and almost impossible to cut to length - it would ruin Xuron track cutters. I think I used a hacksaw in the end. It looks as if you found a better solution.
@DavidJones-hd1jj yes, dremel cut off wheel. That said, never had an issue cutting with linesman plyers. Maybe you are using the heavery gauge. You need the smaller stuff. Like for park flyers and such. I will look up the gauges when i get a chance.
Love the thinking, the value and open approach. Will enjoy hearing about your adventures with a MRC. I've found a club really helpful in giving fresh perspectives and ideas as well as sharing the pleasure of the hobby in person.
I use a similar system for my N gauge. I use half-unwound paper clips with a little hook at the end and put it in the hole next to the dimple. I hold it down with a piece of card glued either side of it. There's going to be a wall between the track and the other end of the paper clip. I call it the 'remote hand of god'.
Thanks for this Mike. I am planning to do a simple, long, shelf style layout along one wall- station to fiddle yard in 00. This system will be perfect for that...
I use Walthers code 83 turnouts , there is a hole at each side of the throw bar, just need a 90 degree bent in the piano wire, I don’t use Peco turnouts, but the idea is cool
Looks good Mike, but is there any chance you could add the product information to the video description, please? I'd like to try this on a shunting layout I'm making, but I'm not having much luck finding slaters rods which are actually tubes.
Sorry, I bought the slaters tube from Kernow models, it has no packaging etc, so can't give product codes etc. The florist wire is as the packaging I showed and came from hobby craft. Worth remembering that this will only do short straight runs
Just the vid I need for my floating shelf TTn42 Inglenook. Been trying to figure this out. Can Inglenooks use automatic decouplers? Where would they be placed?
Hi, This could be very useful as I have just used a wire system made out of what was in the house so Mains cable, tap washers, washers and a hot glue gun with some bought in knobs £1 each as on the 8ftx1ft 6in end to end I am building wanted it to be simple unlike my iTrains controlled layout in the loft so if you had uploaded this before mine which went live in the last week it could have helped me however your system is straight can it be bent and still work as on mine which is installed under the baseboard does need to. But well done for showing this and if anyone wishes to do the same and does not have spare mains cable your parts and method would help. Cheers Robert.
Hi, I would think it could be bent using a more flexible tube, the length of the wire might be an issue. I did make long bendy runs on another layout using 3d printer tube and filament
@@BudgetModelRailways Hi thanks for the reply if you look at what I have done a bendy run is easy to do and I have with my run around points changed both with one wire pull push. Cheers Robert.
It's difficult to give exact delivery as each order is unique and takes a different time to print, we will get it too you as soon as possible, or can refund if you would prefer. Probably another week to ten days
Any chance you could check your emails. I've order a double controller box 1st March and no word about it getting sent or any contract just pending on your website
Sorry, we usually quote 28 days delivery but have had a sudden huge influx which has pushed things back. It will arrive we have the order but will be delayed sorry
Why not use RC pushrods. They have wire and tube all as a set. Just need to cut to length, they're designed to work as a set, no trying to match the tube with the wire.
![[Live] : ONE 167 วันนี้!! "ตะวันฉาย vs โจ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D9_dvfIa6Ao/mqdefault.jpg)
I use a very similar method but bend the wire up into the center hole in the points.
The outer tube is glued in place and covered with scenic.
It's a simple method that works as well now as it always has. Good on you for showing everyone. Cheers!
Glad to see a foray back in OO. Nothing against N, it's just a bit small for me. I think this is the first time I've seen an instruction video on wire and tube turnout controls - thanks for doing this! Simple and effective.
Thanks
A great classic at last explained, and illustrated with a very convincing example. Thanks for the tip, I buy it !
Thanks
Simple is good, well done. I've had success using brake/gear cables from bicycles either new from the shop, or scavenged from an old bike. They are flexible so can have the control knobs (good idea the pencil sections) located exactly where required.
Cheers, David, Tasmania.
Another simple, ingenious idea …. that came to life 😊
Thanks
Back in the 1970's, a hobby shop used bent down nails instead of a pencil, hooked to the wire. It protruded up near the edge of the board. It was neat for a similar switching layout. That was back before Tortoise switch machines and plastic hand throws.
This is brilliant. Cheap and very affective..right up my street. Thanks.
Thanks
Excelent tip, very Simple and eficient. Thank you for sharing. Greetings from Portugal 🙋
Thanks. Lisbon is one of my favourite cities, love the trams there
Thank you Mike for reminding us of this low cost turnout control method. For those in North America, Hobby Lobby has similar components, in addition to the floral wire, K&S brass wire and tubes are available. BTW the jewelery beads also make great handles.
The bead idea is a great one thanks
Keeping the KISS principle!
Great idea and thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Great solution again.
Not for every brand though, a brand like Roco has points that wont stay put unless a manual throw or point motor is attached.
Easy solution for that would be a screw at the end to turn it in the desired position and lock it in place.
I have been reviewing all the videos on this topic as my layout does not presently have point motors.
“Just like that” Tommy must have had a hand in this.
👍💥🔥
Well done Mike, how wonderfully simple! I'd have thought Doug could have 3D printed some pretty knobs rather than using a pencil - but the main thing is that it works😃
He is at uni, so I have lost my 3d capacity lol
Sometimes, old tech is simpler :o) Thinking back to about 60 years ago, the advice then was to cut back the tube slightly and include an 'omega loop' in line somewhere along the wire. This acted as a safety feature if the wire was pushed or pulled too enthusiastically - in normal use the loop just transmitted the force in either direction, but if there was excessive movement the loop either closed up or opened up to compensate, protecting the point. A tip I was recently given for tension lock couplings (but haven't tried yet) was to glue a magnet to the end of a tube/pencil or something and then you just dip it on to the top of the couplings and it will lift both link bars. I suppose you could just magnetise an ordinary screw or nail!
I've tried the magnet, but the issue is the little hooks if the Wagons are not compressed
Thanks for posting this video. I've just done this on my OO inglenook this afternoon. A length of plastruct tube and two lengths of brass wire set me back the huge total of £2.06 from my local model shop (The Model Shop, Northampton) and works beautifully. I used hot glue to attach the tube to the board and cut down some spare dowels from flat-pack furniture for the knobs on the end of the wire.
Sounds great, cheap simple and effective
Good idea.
You've done this on previous layouts I remember.
Good and simple with no wiring. 👍
Happy Modelling.
Many thanks!
Thank you for sharing, I really like the simplicity of it. I will take a look at trying this for the switching layout I plan on building.
Hi Mike i love this sort of thing,no need for expensive point motors and wiring is there! I have seen this before some where,but this person had his mounted under the baseboard.But both are great ideas.Playing with trains should be fun and easy😀
Absolutely thanks
Big smile and a lightbulb moment for me when you said, and demonstrated that this method is just as quick as flicking a switch for a point motor.
I know, it's a bit of a shock when it occurs to you, same result no expensive complex electrical Components lol
N is great but since I have H0 and OO, I am glad with this video. Great idea for a remote control of switches 👍 I didn't know about the smaller frog in Peco points, I should have checked that before buying my Hornby points. The frog is indeed bigger and it seems quite elevated, wheelsets with larger flanges tend to jump over them... 🐸
I learnt the hard way too, I would never use Hornby, even the mechanism on peco is more positive and reliable
Thanks for the video, love the points idea I would never thought of that, regards, Pete 👍
Brilliant! A truly "hands on" interactive feature for anyone to try. Love it!
Thanks
This is a great idea, love it, defo gonna do this to my own when I get started. Glad ur back to making a inglenook shunting layout in 00... but loving the N too... keep these grwat videos and tips coming please, my fav model railways channel... the simple things are the best ideas 👌🏻
Thanks for the support
That is a nice solution. Thanks for the video!😉👍
Thanks, it's had a very good response, sometimes the simplest ideas are the best ones
Great Idea thanks for the tip.
Realy helpful thanks😊
Love this, thank you for posting.
easy cheap and a great idea for starters well done
great idea Mike
Thanks
Oh excellent, thanks so much for another OO gauge video!
Thanks
Yes! Perfect. RC airplanes use this system and there so many lengths and diameters. They come as a set wire and tube you don't need to buy separate. If you wanted, you could drive them with a simple servo and servo test controller. It would better to have the servos away from the switch so they are easier to access and no long runs of wires. Running them under the table and even being able to have flexibility of the tubes leaves lots of options. I think you could go up to 3' with no issue as long as you secure your tubing.
Thanks I will take a look at RC planes parts for longer lengths, good call
I bought some model aircraft actuator wire and found it too hard and almost impossible to cut to length - it would ruin Xuron track cutters. I think I used a hacksaw in the end. It looks as if you found a better solution.
@DavidJones-hd1jj yes, dremel cut off wheel. That said, never had an issue cutting with linesman plyers. Maybe you are using the heavery gauge. You need the smaller stuff. Like for park flyers and such. I will look up the gauges when i get a chance.
Gotta love wire in tube. I have it on my layout. I use 2mm brass rod with 4mmOD x 2mmID PTFE tube.
Where do you buy those please
Love the thinking, the value and open approach. Will enjoy hearing about your adventures with a MRC. I've found a club really helpful in giving fresh perspectives and ideas as well as sharing the pleasure of the hobby in person.
Thanks I'm looking forward to it
Excellent idea lad, thanks for that.
Thanks
Hello,that works great. I have done similar with N gauge but the rod going underneath in the hole and holding the pipe with balsa wood .
Hi, Mike, hope all is ok on your side of the tracks. Great idea - reminds me of your Tutorial Teusdays.
This is brilliant, I'm doing this with my layout.
Thanks
I use a similar system for my N gauge. I use half-unwound paper clips with a little hook at the end and put it in the hole next to the dimple. I hold it down with a piece of card glued either side of it. There's going to be a wall between the track and the other end of the paper clip. I call it the 'remote hand of god'.
I looked at paper clips but on this occasion they were too short
My points are right at the front. You'll see when I send you pics.
Thanks for this Mike. I am planning to do a simple, long, shelf style layout along one wall- station to fiddle yard in 00. This system will be perfect for that...
Sounds great!
I use Walthers code 83 turnouts , there is a hole at each side of the throw bar, just need a 90 degree bent in the piano wire, I don’t use Peco turnouts, but the idea is cool
Should work the same.
It’s a nifty idea ! I wonder if there are some sorts of manually operated semaphore signals that could be operated in some similar fashion.
I would think so, nice idea
I'm smiling. I like it.
Thanks
Great! I very well might give this a go.
Now to find a proper uncoupling solution...!
Hopefully in the next video as I've been experimenting
Looks good Mike, but is there any chance you could add the product information to the video description, please? I'd like to try this on a shunting layout I'm making, but I'm not having much luck finding slaters rods which are actually tubes.
Sorry, I bought the slaters tube from Kernow models, it has no packaging etc, so can't give product codes etc. The florist wire is as the packaging I showed and came from hobby craft. Worth remembering that this will only do short straight runs
Just the vid I need for my floating shelf TTn42 Inglenook. Been trying to figure this out. Can Inglenooks use automatic decouplers? Where would they be placed?
I tend not to use uncouplers as you need to un couple any where along all three roads.
Hi,
This could be very useful as I have just used a wire system made out of what was in the house so Mains cable, tap washers, washers and a hot glue gun with some bought in knobs £1 each as on the 8ftx1ft 6in end to end I am building wanted it to be simple unlike my iTrains controlled layout in the loft so if you had uploaded this before mine which went live in the last week it could have helped me however your system is straight can it be bent and still work as on mine which is installed under the baseboard does need to. But well done for showing this and if anyone wishes to do the same and does not have spare mains cable your parts and method would help.
Cheers Robert.
Hi, I would think it could be bent using a more flexible tube, the length of the wire might be an issue. I did make long bendy runs on another layout using 3d printer tube and filament
@@BudgetModelRailways Hi thanks for the reply if you look at what I have done a bendy run is easy to do and I have with my run around points changed both with one wire pull push.
Cheers Robert.
I am now wondering why I spent hours under my baseboards adjusting servos!
@@robertstrainset6556 very clever
Do you have any equally interesting budget motorbike tips?
Sadly mine is the exact opposite to budget at the moment as it needs work. It does do 100mpg though so that's budget at least lol
Can the wires overheat when covered?
There is no power to them, just manual so should be OK. They are a loose fit so if there was some thermal expansion they should be ok
@@BudgetModelRailways Just thinking as PVC is flammable and toxic...
ant idea of when i get my order?
Depends on when you placed it. We quote a minimum of 28 days for despatch and at the moment there is a delay due to a sudden influx of orders
@@BudgetModelRailways 22nd march
It's difficult to give exact delivery as each order is unique and takes a different time to print, we will get it too you as soon as possible, or can refund if you would prefer. Probably another week to ten days
If you can give me the name on the order or the order number that would help
Any chance you could check your emails. I've order a double controller box 1st March and no word about it getting sent or any contract just pending on your website
Sorry, we usually quote 28 days delivery but have had a sudden huge influx which has pushed things back. It will arrive we have the order but will be delayed sorry
Why not use RC pushrods. They have wire and tube all as a set. Just need to cut to length, they're designed to work as a set, no trying to match the tube with the wire.
RC pushrods?
Where can I get that from please
Just rang slaters direct and the chap claimed the tube wasn't theirs...said it was from America and their tube is solid??...help
Sorry I'm sure it was slaters. Might be worth ringing kernow models in Guildford which is where I bought it. It was in a square orange display stand
Thanks for the video, this is a great idea that I will definitely use,saving a great deal of money!!😎🚂🚃🚃🚃🇬🇧