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How To Wire A DC Model Railway / Railroad Shunting & End-To-End Layout Easily With Only 2 Wires!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 เม.ย. 2020
- How To Wire A DC Model Railway / Railroad Shunting & End-To-End Layout Easily With Only 2 Wires! For More Photos and information visit our website:
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This is actually the thing that’s been putting me off, the wiring. Thanks for making it so simple!
We have a few other similar videos. DC with insulfrog points is actually really simple
Thankyou great info at 67 I may move from my lego train layout to DC maybe.
4:48 length doesn't matter. Thats what she said
Great film thank you thery help ful I will go and lay my track now
Excellent tutorial to explain just how uncomplicated wiring can be. I find if I run out of a color of wire, a piece of black or red or whatever electrical tape wrapped around the wire can distinguish it from the other. A quick shot of spray paint can do in a pinch as well...
Fantastic video I know this will help everyone out a lot
A very useful video since as I will be using DC whilst building my layout being very oldschool. Keep up the great work
Mike and Doug! Brilliant content. I don’t yet own a model railway. I’m one of those who are fascinated by the hobby but with young children and not a lot of space are thinking how do I find the time and space to start! Thank you for helping me understand how I can not only create a small layout but also have a great amount of fun - and helping me further understand the technicalities around how DC works!! Looking forward to watching more content! Cheers again lads, stay safe.
So glad we could help, keep it simple and go for it is the best advice
thanks Mike... great run through... I would add a couple if iso switches to hold an 040 in the platform and have another 040 come from behind and take out the trucks... cheers Neil
Very helpful 👍
always good information and ideas for the hobby
A great informative video, just goes to show how easy DC is for anyone. I use DC too, however when I'm operating, I frequently will have two operators running trains from the same track feed - so a couple of extra toggle switches is the only extra. GWR
great video as usual,very imformative.am trying to make a small tender for my CR pug at the moment.
ah nice!
Thank you for a clear, easily followed tutorial on DC wiring.
Thanks, so many people over complicate it
Thank you very much appreciated
Great.
Thank goodness for this simple explanation, exactly what I needed!
Glad it helped!
A nice video Mike and Doug,i like the look of those powered fishplates,and that little shunting yard looks great already! Happy Easter and stay well my friends :)
Thanks Michael take care
DC has been around since year dot and has worked just fine without DCC. It's not too complicated to have a one man run layout of a decent size and have two locos running the foreign mains whilst you can shunt some freight cars in your yard and switch back between two or three switchers !! Just a little bit of know-how on electrical fundamentals and some patience. I won't deny that DCC isn't great, but all my stuff is DC and has been since I was 8or 9. We had no WIFI signal blackouts back then,nor did we rely on satellites for our phone coverage!! The only problem we had was the occasional electrical storm black out!! If you want to run a large (or any sized) layout with multiple trains and all the bells and whistles literally,then DCC would be perfect for that. But remember.. model trains are one expensive hobby and DCC isn't cheap neither!! Good luck running folks and take it easy!! From J.P( Always) Wright.
Great video I’ve been using DCC since 1995 and have forgotten how to wire conventional DC.
Great, now I understand,,,,thanks
Helpful thanks
Yes thank you this. Today's insul-frog points have a good operating potential with reliability...
Super clear, thanks. I am struggling to work out if I can have two controllers powering a track with one running the main loop and then other a shunting area without shorting the controllers. I can isolate the shunting area from the loop with a point and wire up a second controller to the shunting area but am trying to workout if it's possible to cross the over e.g. a shunting loco leaving the fiddle yard to use the main running loop. Would adding switches to each controllers power line to the track solve the problem allowing me to turn off one controller when I wanted to open the fiddle yard to the main loop? More testing I think...
Hi
I've just brought a small hornby set to go with my peco bits I've collected and the contoller is a HM6000 Bluetooth devise I've got a through road and a spur running parallel to it on the left with a divering road going to the right with two sets of points on a four foot board with a two foot fiddle yard. This runs all on two wires I took your advise on the running river it works a treat. Thank you both for learning me enough to have a go and get started. I've also got a gaugemaster combi on the way as a backup or ready when I want to expand
Sounds great, glad we could help
Intersting info thanks Mike happy lockdown Easter to every one from Blenheim southisland New Zealand cheers Bruce ☺☺☺☺☺
Hi Bruce, all the best to you all in NZ
great boys nice and simple how it should be some people freak out when they got to touch any thing electric very reassuring for any one wanting to have a go well done
Thanks that's very kind
Very clever. I can't do that, because I run Märklin HO 3 rail AC (running dcc).
Fantastic videos that have inspired me to get back into this hobby. Are the old style triang points suitable for this type of layout? Cheers Steve
Yup, keep it simple ☺️
Completely agreed with you : there is no need of overengineered isolating sections with Peco Insulfrog Setrack points. I have some, they are decently priced, reliable, and I had been able to run on them without any problem a tiny 0-4-0 with a less than 3cm wheelbase.
Isolating sections aroud the points are usefull only with electrofrog points because the frog is electrically live. With small layouts like the ones you are designing and building, one feeding point, or two at most, that's enough with Peco Setrack points. The crucial thing to take care of is the type and the brand of the points, because Hornby ones are not as good as Peco, and suffers from reliability and operational problems (short wheelbase locos tends to get stuck on Hornby points).
Hornby points are awful
Good to know. Thanks
pleased i saw this. very usful & simple
Thanks
What a great video. Really clear and simple. I’ve watched videos about wiring that are ten times as long with so much guff and bluster that afterwards I’m none the wiser.
Sadly so many people try to complicate it, just look at some of the comments on this video. I know people are only trying to be helpful and give additional info but it just confuses things
Couldn’t agree more!
Another great video.Great to get some down to earth advice instead of DCC getting rammed down modellers throats!Have you considered doing any 0-16-5 narrow gauge loco bodies and wagons?That seems to be another area where daft prices are being asked for conversion kits.Keep up the good work.
Thanks, yes we have looked at it and probably will st some point. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching
I am planning my 1st layout and due to space its gonna be a South East London Fictional Shuinting yard... the electric and wiring is something I am having trouble figuring out, this has helped me no ends, thanks so much!
DC wiring can be simple. If you use insulfrog points and don't have any kick back sidings then you will only need two wires. Have fun
@@BudgetModelRailways thank you
Good your sharing of the wiring information. Just a something though: isolating and non isolating points aren't a "modern" thing, the options being around for easily 60 - 70 years, even solenoid operating electric points are a hundred years old, complete with wheel triggered point or signal operation.
Good old 3 rail dublo points from 70 years ago had both isolated and non-isolated available, and you can still by them for 2 quid a pop!
I bought a bunch of 90 year old standard and wide gauge solenoid non-derailing turnouts for $25 (but who's got the space!).
Keep up the great vids :) and Douglas is a great videographer, his editing really makes a viewing very watchable and enjoyable
Thanks for watching and commenting
I used the same kind of system on my loft layout which is also DC . I`ve also been able with the correct points installed and adding a 2nd controller I can run loco`s in a shunting yard unhindered while I have 2 trains running round the main track
Sounds great, and very similar too our own loft layout
you can use only one feed if you use DCC point clips made by Hornby
This is amazing and eerie as ive just received your control box(which is awesome by the way, if anyone hasn’t got one then don’t waste loads of money get their own make it’s brilliant) anyway like I was saying I set up the box and then I thought, how does it connect as I’ve never had a train set till now lol and this was the next video up as I was going through your repertoire so thnx a million for this. I’m looking at where to get some non expensive locos etc as I live in Derby, any ideas? Thnx again for the controller case which I love.👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Glad we could help, the controllers make such a difference. Sadly second hand prices are bonkers and both ebay and retailers are often people dumping rubbish at high prices. Classic Rail is good, he has a good website and is reliable and at good prices
thanks for the advice, i´ll make a note of it for my shunting layout i´m building, perhaps one day you should do a studio and workshop tour
Its not very tidy!
by the way, what happend to Budget the bear and duck?
Thanks for another great video! I’m still not totally settled on what I want to use in my layout just yet.
I was thinking about adding a DPDT (double pull double throw) switch to my layout so I can easily switch between DC and DCC without too much wiring. I bought some cheap Bachmann DC controller and the Bachmann DCC command center. I got 2-3 DC locos for around £35 and 2 DCC locos for £40 each.
I guess in my guess I’ll just need two sets of wiring, one for DC and one for DCC.
How to you guys put the wires in the blocks? Do you strip the ends and just put the same side into it? Like if I had multiple reds I can feed all of them on that side then put the red wire that goes to my controller on the other side?
Correct. Good luck with it all
If you want to do this with Fleischmann points, remove the wire bridges that are installed from the factory, otherwise it will (should in case of oxidation) act like you have all dead ends powered.
does it make a difference if the points are electrofrog but you still use the blades to pass current?
As long as you only use one loco at a time no
Electrofrogs need completely different wiring from a normal turnout otherwise short circuiting will definitely result. Read up on live frog wiring
Hi Mike and Doug, simple question for you, what wire can I use for track etc. can I use the wire from an old extension for instance as I have lots of old wiring around my shed and loft cheers.Great video ( as usual). Oh and I’m just waiting for your control box casing, I have the other parts and look forward to assembling it. One more question if I may, do you know where I can get cheap locos and carriages from, I live in Derby ( just thought you might know, many thnx Mik
Hi, we use whatever thin wire we can get, try it and see us probably the best answer. All the orders went off today so hopefully with you soon. I would contact Classic rail, he is all second hand and has sensible prices and is very reliable. Although wagons and coaches don't get on his website if you ring or email him he is very helpful. Sadly too many other retailers and ebayers are unloading rubbish at over high prices. I have been very impressed with the Piko Hobby range, it's is HO not OO but their new prices are less than OO second hand
This is great. Do you have a build log for the first finished layout on this video??
Should be a few videos
I am contemplating a small shunting shelf layout using an 0-4-0 or at most an 0-6-0. My understanding is that small wheel base locomotives can stall over insulfrog points and thus live frogs can work better. What is your experience? Am I correct in thinking that live frogs would require old school isolation? Thanks
If you only want to run one loco at a time electrofog might be better. It depends on the loco some 0-4-0 are fine some are not. Same with 0-6-0, but thats more about the plastic frog
Good reply thanks
If you have reliable points and a low power controller there is no need to add extra wires.
With Dcc and the associated power levels (some people use 5A boosters) you can literally weld wheels to the track if things get out of hand. In that case the extra connections are more meant as fire risk management to prevent cable fires.
This is DC.
Hey Mike, looking at this video as I'm building a similar layout of this size and with a kickback. Can you give me a link to where i can purchase a connector block like that please? I shall be ordering one of your controller cases soon!
Hi, most DIY stores or Wilko etc
Hi, did you have any issues with having two wires coming out the same terminal? I'm thinking of doing this on mine but wasn't sure how the connection would be? Basically two wires in one side, four wires out the other
Correct using connector blocks
@@BudgetModelRailways is there any risk of shorting out the circuits?
As long as you don't mix the wires I can't see an issue?
Hi guys, thanks for this , can you tell me a bit more about how to improve Hornby points with tin foil please
We have a video on it further back in our listings
@@BudgetModelRailways found it, december 2017, i'll have a go and report back, thanks
I'm looking at doing a similar layout, going to get my points is it for left hand and one right point
One left and right to make the passing loop with one other depending on where you want the siding
Sorry wrong answer , yes four left and one right
This does show that things don’t have to be difficult as you are using the points as switches. There is one flaw that is in order to isolate a train at the rear platform you need to leave the adjacent point in an illegal state or the station will be powered by the rear line. Points for cross overs should be switched together for either crossing or straight travel.
Sorry not with you. If I isolate the bay then its not powering anything?
Budget Model Railways the way I view your layout is you have 2 power feeds, the front one will power the majority of the layout depending on how the points are set. The back one will power the rear siding going through the shed but will also power the station if the point is set straight through. In order to isolate the station you need to switch that point to the crossover position but leave the other point straight which is an illegal state, it would work but is not good practice. Don’t shoot me though I’m not a rivet counter by any means but you could forget to change to one of the correct states and cause a derailment which is why such crossovers operate in tandem. Hope that’s clear or have I just confused everyone else.
I understand, but thats an operating practice issue, not a wiring and power issue, this is how people get confused about wiring, sorry.
Do insulfrog points not have problems with 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 loco where they can stop on a dead point?
Not with points with a smaller plastic frog
What is "kick back"?
A siding that runs back in the other direction
Can you contact me please. Wiring 4 tracks and points DC
If you email us via our website then we can reply. We do have several videos on wiring DC
I am not getting notifications when you post a new video. I hate when TH-cam does this it seems it’s happening more and more often.
Can you Click for notifications again?
Budget Model Railways Thats what I do I unsubscribed then re-subscribe hitting the bell icon. Sometimes it helps but it still doesn’t fix the issue. I have no idea why the notifications just stop coming in the first place.
Not quite what I,ve been told. Wires are needed at both ends on a end to end layout. Current flows in circles thus both ends need connecting to create a circle. Whoms right?
I cant see why you need to power both ends, might hadn't and it till works?
@@BudgetModelRailways could well be that is the reason. Once the track is completed played will find out. Thanks
The circuit or circle is completed by current flowing from one rail of the track, through the loco motor and back to the controller through the other rail.
@@PatGilliland oh thats how it works Thanks
Can you wire analog layouts the same
It's the same thing
@@BudgetModelRailways thanks I'm new to this
@@Burtonupontrentrailwaystoday it gets confusing as people use different terms to jean the same thing. Basically it's either DCC or not ie DC. DC is much easier than people think if you use points to switch power. Feel free to ask if we can help with anything else
@BudgetModelRailways thank you I will
Gents
The layout I'm thinking of doing would be a one road the length of the board 8ft with a left hand point and a right hand point totaling three roads where would I have to wire the layout