An empty ball point pen is another good tool for adding relief texture between bricks/stones on card kits. The ball rolls so even with little finesse it's less likely to drag and tear the print surface 😉
Thanks for these tips. You’ve given me some ideas. I’ve always thought that Metcalfe kits were 2D looking and not varied enough in their architectural style. It’s nice to see that some of those drawbacks are relatively easy to fix.
Really interesting tips and tricks 👍🏻 I like these kits too. I usually paint the corners and recess and use scales scenes printed roof tiles and other bits and bobs to enhance these wonderful reasonably priced kits 👍🏻
If you think rows of slates is slow. I was building an old coaching inn which has a three hundred year old roof and the jiggledy slates that go with it. Each slate was individually cut and glued on. Some good hints here. Even when scratch building your own buildings some of these hints will work if using say textures like from Scale Model Scenery.
I did a similar thing many years ago, back in the 90’s. I copied the drawings of the country manor out of the Downesplans book, except I covered the walls in red brick rather than stone, the bricks were separately applied, and supplied by someone who sold them at model railway shows. I can’t remember the name of the person who made them.
I have been thinking exactly the same as you with the lack of texture on the otherwise excellent Metcalfe models. I scratch build but I am thinking that I could use the Metcalfe models as a kind of underbody for the more detailed work that takes them from good but flat models to believable miniature building. Thank you for this.
Thank you for the video These video are great therapy for me as I recover from my brain tumour and😢 stroke as I try to get back to my modelling my modelling
I've built a few Metcalfe kits for others (I model in a different scale) and I've carried out similar modifications, plus guttering, down pipes, roof/chimney flashing etc. They make into charming, realistic models doing so.
Some brick papers can be run through a Sizzix Big shot embossing machine using Wills plastic brick sheets as an emboss. I’v also tried this method with art sketch pad paper, and other Wills sheet, although as yet I haven’t tried painting them yet. I think there is room to experiment much more with that process, though I haven’t had time yet.
I was about to criticize your choice to overlay a perfectly good brick image with plasticard until I remembered I'd done just the same thing. Old Scale Structures Limited kits used printed "textures" which did, in their defense, have a slight texture to them but didn't offer nearly the same relief as actual scribed material. However in that particular example the base card of the structure is blank and you can add whichever texture you wish; those that came with the kit or your own. The plain printed sheets still have their use in the background where the lack of actual texture is less obvious but up front it makes sense to use a better texture. Cheers, thanks for the great tips!
one year late to the party but today you can buy an entire set of scribbing tools for 1.99 on amazon/ebay etc as the nail artists use them so they are called DOTTING TOOLS they come in sets of 12 that give you all size ball ends, cheap as chips
An empty ball point pen is another good tool for adding relief texture between bricks/stones on card kits. The ball rolls so even with little finesse it's less likely to drag and tear the print surface 😉
Thanks for these tips. You’ve given me some ideas.
I’ve always thought that Metcalfe kits were 2D looking and not varied enough in their architectural style. It’s nice to see that some of those drawbacks are relatively easy to fix.
Fantastic tips, the filler for the corners is superb. Thanks.
Really interesting tips and tricks 👍🏻 I like these kits too. I usually paint the corners and recess and use scales scenes printed roof tiles and other bits and bobs to enhance these wonderful reasonably priced kits 👍🏻
If you think rows of slates is slow. I was building an old coaching inn which has a three hundred year old roof and the jiggledy slates that go with it. Each slate was individually cut and glued on. Some good hints here. Even when scratch building your own buildings some of these hints will work if using say textures like from Scale Model Scenery.
I did a similar thing many years ago, back in the 90’s.
I copied the drawings of the country manor out of the Downesplans book, except I covered the walls in red brick rather than stone, the bricks were separately applied, and supplied by someone who sold them at model railway shows.
I can’t remember the name of the person who made them.
Great video. Beautifully produced.
Love this, thank you - especially liked the tip for filler, adding relief and plasticard - hadn't heard of that!
I have been thinking exactly the same as you with the lack of texture on the otherwise excellent Metcalfe models. I scratch build but I am thinking that I could use the Metcalfe models as a kind of underbody for the more detailed work that takes them from good but flat models to believable miniature building. Thank you for this.
Great tips. Thank you!
Thank you for the video
These video are great therapy for me as I recover from my brain tumour and😢 stroke as I try to get back to my modelling my modelling
I’m so using all these tips from now on.
I've built a few Metcalfe kits for others (I model in a different scale) and I've carried out similar modifications, plus guttering, down pipes, roof/chimney flashing etc.
They make into charming, realistic models doing so.
What a huge improvement, thanks for sharing.
Just picked up on your video, I do the same with roofs, I also use stick on ready printed and weathered sheets
Thank you for another brilliant info
Very informative Phil. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent suggestions! I think these could also be used in N gauge, and do give a bit of variety to Middletonville!
Some brick papers can be run through a Sizzix Big shot embossing machine using Wills plastic brick sheets as an emboss.
I’v also tried this method with art sketch pad paper, and other Wills sheet, although as yet I haven’t tried painting them yet.
I think there is room to experiment much more with that process, though I haven’t had time yet.
I think the Chimneys from Scenic3D add great detail as well
Thank you 🥳👍
I was about to criticize your choice to overlay a perfectly good brick image with plasticard until I remembered I'd done just the same thing. Old Scale Structures Limited kits used printed "textures" which did, in their defense, have a slight texture to them but didn't offer nearly the same relief as actual scribed material. However in that particular example the base card of the structure is blank and you can add whichever texture you wish; those that came with the kit or your own. The plain printed sheets still have their use in the background where the lack of actual texture is less obvious but up front it makes sense to use a better texture.
Cheers, thanks for the great tips!
Brilliant thank you
Phil I could not hear the brand of roof tiles you used. Can you or someone state the name and from where they can be bought?
Thanks, Mark
Good tip thanks lee
Anybody know the name of the pointy tool with the ball on the end ??
In the US we call them embossing tools. They come in different sizes and usually sold as a set.
I normal put down pipes and gutters Bill
Alot of effort, but they look so nice.
I would watch this if you used English instead of slang. Do you really think most railway models use youth slang?
Huh?
@@duncangardiner9792 What does hack mean? iI is slang sport.
one year late to the party but today you can buy an entire set of scribbing tools for 1.99 on amazon/ebay etc as the nail artists use them so they are called DOTTING TOOLS they come in sets of 12 that give you all size ball ends, cheap as chips