Hyundai Sonata Clock Spring Replacement (When Cruise, Trip, Radio & Phone controls stop working)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ย. 2022
- If your Hyundai's steering wheel mounted controls all stop working, it's more than likely your steering wheel clock spring has malfunctioned and needs replacement. A clock spring is a spring loaded coiled flat wire that follows the steering wheel when the wheel is turned. An internal spring keeps light tension on the flat wire to extend or retract the wire to prevent it from bunching up. So the clock spring allows bi-directional electrical signals between a rotating object (the steering wheel) with a stationary object (the steering column).
Replacement of the clock spring will require removal of the driver's side air bag, steering wheel and steering column upper and lower covers.
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Parts & Tools:
Replacement Clock Compatible with Hyundai Elantra 2011-2013,Sonata 2009-2014,Sonata Hybrid 2011-2014
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Alltrade 648645 Kit 14 Heavy Duty Steering Wheel Puller Tool Set
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Angled Push Pin Pliers for Retainer & Anchor
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#sonata
I do lots of car repairs. One of the best videos I have ever seen on any car issue repair. Each hand movement was extremely detailed all the way down to what the release button looks like on the horn spring. Wish you did videos on all my car repair needs, damn good, just damn good.
Thanks! Appreciate your comments! Currently doing a video series on rebuilding the short block on Hyundai/Kia 2.4 engines.
exactly what i was thinking cause all these clips have different release methods and not ones was skipped over nor was it dumbed down to the point i felt stupid
Thank you for sharing what you know. I had this issue for years and replaced the clock spring today and wow it worked just like new all the bottoms.
I disconnected the battery and followed your steps.
Thank you!
Glad it helped and thanks for sharing your experience!
Thank you for this video! Fixed all my steering wheel controls and the horn.
Glad it helped and thanks for sharing!
Thanks a lot this helped out , I replaced the clock spring and my controls work now , appreciate it
Great to hear and thanks for sharing!
I am terrible with car repair and was able to do this thanks to you!! Much appreciated ✌🏼😀
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Super informative👍🏼. Thank you for doing this video. I have a 2012 Sonata and I noticed my controls are acting wonky. When I turn my steering wheel 180°, the Control lights go out. Definitely remove the negative battery terminal one doing this. Good luck to all we have to do this. You can do it.👍🏼
Glad it helped!
thanks for sharing, just got mine done. easy peasy
Nice work!
Hi. Y~o excellent uploading, dude-
Thanks for the visit!
this was very easy to do!! thanks for you help
You bet!
Trippy...I just did this this morning on a 2016 elantra...
Very good video explanation. Thanks!
Glad you liked it and thanks for sharing!
Great video. About to do my Santa Fe.
Let us know how it turns out!
Another great instructional video. I always enjoy your content, keep them coming !
Thanks, will do!
Awesome!
Thanks!
Awesome, thanks!!
You bet!
Thank you so much that helped a lot
Glad it helped!
Thanks very helpfull
Glad it helped!
2018 Santa Fe, only had 2 of the release clips for the airbag/horn module. Flat blade worked best for me. Otherwise plug and play. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing!
Tanks you brother
You bet!
Hope all is well 🙏
Yes ... thanks!
Thanks
You bet!
This is a very helpful video that I’ll need in the future, I’m told by peers that I should disconnect the battery. I saw in your videos based on the car door open visual that you didn’t. Overall question is do I need to disconnect my battery in order to do this repair?
Up to you.
Thanks I replaced the clock Spring and it fixed my "horn not working, steering wheel controls not working" but I still got the airbag light on 😂
Nice work!
Hey, did you ever find the problem? 2014 Sonata horn, cruise, and trip controls not working???
Mi claxon no funciona ni los controles al volante crees que esa sea la solucion?
Hello. I appreciated your video. Make it looks easy. I changed my clock spring, but I have a problem with the headlights now. When I turn the car on, the high beams are on but no the regular low beam. To turn the low beam I have to actually pull the blinker stalk as people usually do for the high beams. So it is backward. Any ideas what it could be? or do I need to try and replace clock spring back again? Any help is appreciated
I don't think the clock spring controls the high/low beam control. If it does, may be the replacement clock spring is defective.
Hi sr I have a question, the clock spring have relation with the horn don’t works? I appreciate your answer
That could be one source of the horn not working.
Ny clock spring went on 2012 sonata SE. Started with the airbag light, then became the horn, now the trip and cruise buttons. I tur nthe steering wheel all the way right and everything works and airbag light goes out so know its the clock spring. I may try to do it myself but have bad shoulders so may have to go to firestone i use unless they want to charge too much. but they do clean up connections and under neath to remove any dust and build up.
Find a mobile mechanic on Craiglist
Question, some of my radio controls and the cruise control don’t turn on sometimes. I also have an air bag light on. Will this fix those issues mainly the air bag light?
Other issues can trigger the air bag light. You'll need to do a scan tool diagnostic test.
Great Video, however it is important to disconnect the battery before, if an airbag is involved.
As long as the ignition is off, there's no way the airbag will get current to deploy. But doesn't hurt to disconnect the battery.
If the volume up button is triggering the voice command, or vice versa, could a bad clock spring be the cause?
Yes. I'd assume so.
I have a Hyundai Elantra 2015 with working cruise control and trip info buttons, yet the audio controls and phone buttons won't work, Would it got fixed if I change the clock spring?
Hope you really help me on this one, appreciate it.
I would say replacing the clock spring should fix it. Relatively cheap part around $20. Just replaced one on a 13 Sonata 2.0T. As a general rule, if any of the steering wheel buttons don't work, start with the clock spring replacement.
Hello, the cruise control is working but the buttons that change the front dashboard screen aren't. I can't get to the digital speedometer. It is stuck on showing fuel economy. Is this still an issue with the clock spring?
I would think so.
Mine still shows the red man with t he circle although I changed it
ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY,! Btw radio and bluetooth side still works but abs light is on and the cruise control side doesnt work.
Ia that the clockspring as well?
Yes
Replaced and traction control shows now , how to fix it ?
If the light was not on before, I'd say your replacement part is defective.
I have replaced clock spring and horn is working, but now the traction and auto hold options not working, any reason?
Hyundai Azera
Don't believe traction control is tied to the clockspring. Recheck all your electrical connections.
I’m told by peers to disconnect the battery so the airbag doesn’t go off, is that necessary this car make and year?
If the ignition is off, there's no way the air bag can deploy.
Is it the same clockspring in the 2009 sonata ?
You'll have to check with the parts vendor.
I have the same Hyundai but All my controls work the airbag light just came on by itself recently what could be the problem?
You'll have to use a scan tool to download the air bag error code(s).
I WAS ABLE TO FIX IT AND THE RED MAN WITH THE CIRCLE IS GONE. HOW DO I CHANGE MY WORM SHAFT? MY STEERING WHEEL IS MAKING A RUBBING NOISE WHEN I TURN IT.
Maybe this is your problem with the noise: th-cam.com/video/C6v5-f2uZS0/w-d-xo.html
My trip and reset buttons don’t work as well as my horn wonder if this could be the issue
Trip yes. Horn no...check your fuse.
@@hardlymovingpro fuses where good
@@hardlymovingpro horn yes, its tied into it. horn failure is exactly typical of clock spring. in some cases if you turn the wheel all the way to right (or side buttons don't work, then hit horn and it works, then its the clock spring. The typical order of failures is 1. airbag. 2. Horn. 3. Mode and cruise control. Often you can turn the wheel all the way right or at least half right and they will work in that position. Hit horn then. If you tun center again it will stop working. All the functions of the steering wheel is connected to the clock spring.
Where can i find the Clock Sping? Link 🔗 isn't available
Looks like Amazon doesn't carry it anymore. Try Ebay.
Where do I get the clock spring replacement?
A link to the clock spring replacement is in this video's description area.
Ebay
@@hardlymovingprothe link is broken
My horn recently stopped working but honks three times when i turn right could the clock spring be the problem?
I'd say it's the clock spring.
@@hardlymovingprookay thank you so much 🙏🏽
@@DeprisMusic you bet!
Recently the horn, trip, and cruise all stop working, would this item be the problem?
The trip and cruise would be related to the clock spring. Can't say about the horn.
@@hardlymovingpro ok, thx
Did you find out the issue? I am having the same problem with mine, nothing on the wheel works not even the horn
yes. Mine is the same issue , started airbag, then horn, then mode and cruise buttons failed. If I turn the steering wheel all the way right, horn trip and other buttons work, indicating bad clock spring.
@@hardlymovingpro horns part of clock spring/ have same issue, started with airbag light and the notorious click click click sound when turned on. then horn failed, later trip/mode and cruise. If i turn wheel all way right they all work. that is typical for bag clock spring.
I’ve got one more long winded question, and Im going to apologize preemptively for the book I am about to write you.
As I have mentioned prior I am pulling the 3mz out of my 04
Rx but what I haven’t mentioned is I am pulling it out through the top with a hoist. (I know it’s possible because I’ve seen it done on a sienna which has a smaller bonnet opening and engine bay) I’m hoping I can pull it with the back header still attached or at least wiggle it out to make enough room using the hoist in order to take off the back manifold from the top if necessary. I’ve disconnected it from the wye pipe (had to use an oscillating multi tool to cut the badly rusted studs off after using my impact to remove one nut but stripping the stud and nut completely in the process, the other just wouldn’t budge and i rounded the nut and the external torx end of the studs, I couldn’t hammer a bolt biter extractor onto it so I had to hack it off) I am going to drill out the rest of the studs and use stainless washers bolts and nuts to sock it back together
But it was more or less impossible to take the engine out with the back header and transmission still attached because the rear differential output shaft protrudes about 5 inches past the steering rack and the back header tail pipe is directly parallel to it with about 5” of space between the two and in that space is the steering rack. So now I’m separating the transmission and engine as you know. I am Going to try again today but I have some decent pry bars coming in tomorow if I still can’t get them apart.
But the multi million dollar question is…. Am I going to have a problem with the back header still attached? Or will I be able to gain enough room with the hoist to remove the back header from the top before I hoist the whole engine out of the engine bay in a worst case scenario?
You are the expert here, but myself Personally, I don’t see why the engine wouldn’t just come out with the back exhaust manifold still attached, the rx330 engine bay is pretty spacious. Much more room to work than a sienna. I have the fan assembly out but the radiator and condenser are still in. The ac compressor is still attached and pulled out the way with a bungee. I could convert a propane bottle into an evacuation canister if need be but the sooner I get this sucker out the better.
As I’ve said before, Your input is invaluable. If I could have afforded the $2500 in labor to get this done at a shop I would have but alas we are poor and mostly capable enough to attempt this ourselves. Plus I was able to put together a decent diy tool kit in the 5 months before the engine started knocking worse than bob Dylan on heavens door. Found a lot of great used tools online. $30 for a 2.5 ton Pittsburgh floor jack, $80 for an old
Rusty 2 ton torrin engine hoist, $160 for a set of Mac flex head metric combo wrenches, $20 for a 400mm craftsman chain whip and the list goes on.
Now we just need a tool cart and a fine tooth flex head 1/2” ratchet.
Honestly though, how does anyone get at that back cat bank 1 to remove the header? The space to work is almost non existent. Maybe if my ryobi extended reach ratchet didn’t have an awkwardly placed battery pack I may have been able to get up there but the 70 lbs/ft of torque it pushes wasn’t enough to get 66% of the nuts off the front manifold/ cat bank 2. The nuts holding the heat shield on are just little mounds of rust and I definitely couldn’t fit my multi tool up there
To cut them off.
I don’t see any realistic/ practical way to remove cat bank 1 without pulling the engine out either enough to make space or all the way entirely.
Or am I just being a total moron?
What variable have I overlooked in this equation?
Help me hardly moving productions, you’re my only hope.
The way the shops do it is by supporting engine and trans via the subframe corners (4 jack stands), detach the coolant, brake lines, electrical harness and the suspension strut upper mounts. Then they lift the entire car with their lift. Your problem clearing the rear exhaust manifold can be done by removing the entire front end facia, bumper, cross member frame followed by the radiator and ac condenser (watch my video on the Sonata engine swap). You only then need to lift the engine up slightly and pull the engine forward away from the car. This negates the need to remove the engine hood. I can have the front end off in around 15 minutes. Don't understand why people want to remove the hood and lift the engine above the height of the fender. That's how I did it on a Lexus RX350.
@@hardlymovingpro
I have seen your sonata swap video a few times.
I might be reading between the lines but you didn’t say it’s impossible to clear it out the top with the header attached.
Either way, pry bars came in last night so I’ll know what I’m going to do by the end of the day. I would rather not remove the fascia but I may have to. And if I have to I’ll need to get a 1/4” npt to flare fitting and then drill and tap an empty propane canister to fit it.
I’ve got a good 5-7” in front of the engine with the fascia on which should provide me with enough room to work the back header off if need be.
I’ve already removed the hood.
Fingers crossed either way
@@hardlymovingpro yeah I’m going to get a 1/4” npt to flare fitting and a tap and making an evacuation canister tomorow because you were 100% right taking off the front fascia and bumper is the way to go. I always had this option in the back of my head as a last resort but I should have just gone for it from the get go instead of wasting time.
Transmission and engine separated today used every flat head screwdriver I had and my new set of cheap craftsman pry bars. Then realized I forgot the engine to t-case mounting bracket. Once I took those bolts out the engine and bell housing came apart with one more pry. Pretty satisfying.
Thanks for the insight. I don’t feel so stuck anymore
Ok I made the repair and the horn works again the light disappears on start up for about 5 seconds then returns and idea why?
What light?
Was the horn the only thing not working? Was it cruise and trip also?
@@musiccitybassdid you find the issue ? Me and you are experiencing the same and I need to get this solved my son drives this car and he is a teen
@jpowell7885 yes, $12 part on ebay clock spring
Just replaced mines and the airbag light still on why is that
You need to get a scan tool that reads SRS error codes.
@@hardlymovingpro is it a certain kind i need or any code scanner will do
The scan tool should state that it performs SRS and ABS reads along with OBDII.
Replacement clock spring link is broken
Replacement parts can be shoddy.
Not mentioning to disconnect the battery could get someone killed
Don't have to if the ignition is off.
I had noted that too. I had the dealer do this job for me, and they disconnected the battery. The other videos that demonstrate this ALWAYS disconnect the battery. I'd rather be safe than sorry. There must be some good reason the other mechanics disconnect the battery. Very grateful I could understand THIS video and it was well demonstrated....usually some strong accented persons doing the other videos. Or in a different Asian language.
anything electrical I always disconnect the battery, especially on these newer vehicles
Looks like he survived 😂😂😂
killed? not at all likely