Prada: Fascism and Fashion
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2023
- Miuccia Prada’s profound artistic expression as a household fashion designer explores the intriguing connection between Prada's first show and her nuanced commentary on fascism, drawing inspiration from key historical events and cinematic influences. She took her audience in her debut Fall 1988 Milan Fashion Week runway show to the turbulent era of post-World War II and the aftermath of Benito Mussolini’s rule in Italy. Drawing inspiration from the Italian Neorealist film movement of the 1950s, particularly Roberto Rossellini's iconic film "Rome, Open City," Prada masterfully infuses her collection with visual references and narrative subtleties. By exploring the gritty reality and human experiences depicted in this cinematic gem, Prada cleverly incorporates themes of resistance, resilience, and the dichotomy of power. Today, there’s no re-edition bag, mens sport shoes, headbands, or galleria bag, there’s not even Raf Simons or a slime curtain! But there is symbolism, historical references, and cultural significance that is woven throughout the first ever Prada show. By examining the strange intersection of fashion and fascism, we gain a deeper understanding of the power of artistic expression to challenge and provoke thought through the medium of art that is fashion. Subscribe to watch more TH-cam videos about fashion storytelling.
Support the channel: / blissfoster
Follow me on IG: blissfoster - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This level of research requires time and a lot of resources. If you get value, join the Patreon to help us continue running
💫💫
What you didn’t mention is that fascism is born from the PSI (Partito Socialista Italiano). Which is a left communist party … 👀
U remind me of Jesus.....🤔
* I think it's the white shirt, the long hair and the stigmata @ 03:50
* Although urs could do with being re-centered. (Bless the YT Comments Section, right?)
@b.b. 🤦🏼♀️ (A) It's a joke. AKA having a sense of humour. AKA something most Folk in Fashion possess.
● I'm guessing u don't work in Fashion....🤔
(B) The North Korea stuff !?!? 🤔
Unless I'm missing a comment in our chain...(& I don't think I am)...then I'm not sure where that came from. (Not me.)
Or even how it's linked 2 the subject matter.
● I quietly wonder whether ur a little 🥜🥜🌰?
So, think it best my not responding 2 anything further forthcoming.
● But to pass u some nuggets / triggers to gnaw on...🐿
Illuminati | World Conspiracy | UFO's | Mind Control | CIA | 'Earn £100k pa working from 🏡. As me how' |
Happy chomping 😋
(💡And don't 4get to floss 👍🏼) 😘
Prada is all I wore 😮
I think that is quite obvious@@re7416
Born and bred Italian here, that was a great video. It can get frustrating sometimes as everybody wants "a piece" of Italy on a very superficial level without delving into any sort of detail. Thank you
how did you feel about the map of "north" and "south" I was a little surprised the "north" was that far north
Hearing his pronunciation of Miuccia ("Mewcha") was atrocious
@@icaprone1yes the map was... interesting, to say the least. Good to know Genoa, Bologna, Florence, and even Rome are Southern.. lol
@@icaprone1the map was about where olive oil and butter are used
Yes, they did their research, it shows! That's why I would never point out on another video that Maschietta is pronounced like maschile that means masculine, why people check all their pronunciations, weird
This side of Muiccia (and Prada) is actually talked about extensively, but mostly in design school. Unfortunately, fashion for public consumption is usually dumbed down to asethetics and 'flex' culture. I've actually always felt that Dior under MCG is a bootleg version of everything Muiccia stands for and has done, but fails to do so with anything other than profit and faux intellectuality in mind (and it works! Lol, because nobody is actually digging deeper to question her strategies 🤷♀️).
On that note, this was well done and explored!
And if I might suggest a topic, if you haven't already covered it, Rei Kawakubo and the designers who have 'graduated' from her and are a part of her extensive fashion eco-system, might be of great interest to you (and us if you decide to cover it!).
I’m so glad you connected with the episode! Thank you so much for the kind words.
We read a lot of academic fashion journals and have a pretty sizable collection of fashion school textbooks at home. I’ve never read anyone who discussed the things we talked about in this episode.
Could you recommend some resources that have discussed this topic?
I can recommend the book,
*'Fashion under Fascism'* by Eugenia Paulicelli.
It's by far the most referenced book on this cross section. (Her website is also quite helpful as she researches both Italian fashion and film under the lenses of history).
*Gabriella Romani* would be another reference. She covers Italian fashion from the era of the Risorgimento, downwards, in her journal articles.
I think I should also point that that if all your references are in English, you might be limited because I do remember sitting through quite a bit of fashion history under Italian lecturers so I would assume their bibliothèque would be from Italian journals, books and articles that might vastly be untranslated. My advice would be to reach out to foreign professors/lecturers/ journalists who cover history in fashion. They would have the best resources for you. The two women I mentioned up could be a good start.
Either way, besides Miuccia, Elsa Schiaparelli and the Sorelle Fontana (Fontana Sisters) are frequently mentioned as Anti-Fascist designers before her so there might be some cross references if you explore other designers that were driven by the same design intent. A helpful book would be,
*Fashion at the Time of Fascism: Italian Modernist Lifestyle Between 1922 and 1943* by Alessandra Vaccari and Mario Lupano.
Lastly, Archives are extremely helpful! Most iconic brands have some (and though many may not be fully digitalized), you might find some things helpful if you're cross referencing eras or particular topics from the articles and journals pertaining to that designer.
*Vogue Archive* is a good one, (you'll need a school lib pass or your local library, otherwise, you have to pay a subscription).
*Vogue Italia Archive* would probably be more helpful here than the U.S one but still give it a go.
Italy also has a ton and I can recommend
*The European Fashion Heritage Association* and the *Archivi Della Moda del Novecento*.
Hope these were helpful!
Cheers!
Fascinating! Can you elaborate more on what you said about MCG at Dior? I'm not really knowledgeable with her design philosophy so I'm curious as to how the faux-intellectualism manifests in her collections
@@MsKateC2K MGC slaps the word feminist on a garment and does not much else outside of that
praise be!💯
To anyone interested in fascist italian fashion, I literally just finished reading a book on it: Eugenia Paulicelli: Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt. Highly recommend.
One very interesting thing was that there seem to have been two official aesthetics for women under fascism: That of the mother and housewife and that of the athlete wearing either sporting gear or more femme fatale like stuff. However this choice didn't mean that you had a choice agains the regime: Both of these were pro regime, one as a birther, the other as, well, an ultimately more fit birther.
Also, there were already calls to italianise fashion before the fascist era and not just by right wing nutjobs. At that point in time Italian fashion still mostly imitated what France did and quite a few people saw it as a great economic opportunity to have a more independent Italian fashion (of course there was also plenty of nationalist rhetoric). However, whatever the fascist ENM did was absolutely unsuccessful (what a surprise) and an Italian fashion only really started to be a thing decades after the fascists.
Strong agree! Eugenia’s work was a really crucial resource in making this video happen 💫💫
Wow...I love most of your videos, but the sheer history-as-fashion-history (+ Prada being awesome) makes this my favorite one yet
this take on Dr. Prada is amazing and it makes me so greatful for fashion critics like you who truly believe in the background story of the conceptual designers it’s what keeps this world going round !
While I do love the escapism element of fashion, I always love it when designers incorporate current politics and culture in their storytelling, it just feels more fresh and contemporary compared to only ever getting inspiration from house codes.
I tell everybody and their mama about this channel- ive never heard anyone talk about fashion this way and its so fascinating and inspiring to me. Looking forward for when ive got some extra coin to send your way
Thanks for this superb analysis! You're one of a kind! As a cinephile myself I noticed that Miuccia also has a strong film influence, sometimes making an entire collection off of just one character's look. She is magnificent!
I don't know much about fashion history, Prada and miumiu were my favorite high fashion brands just because of the looks, but now I just love them even more
I loved this incredible informative video!
I recommended your channel to my not-into-fashion-and-clothing boyfriend. We walked into a fashion forward store in Amsterdam. He made a beeline for the cool menswear and was completely enthralled. His creativity is awakening and he is slowly starting to look towards things he likes and not the things that all Amsterdam men wear. It's great!
And also: up the algorithm you go! ⬆️
I'm from a town near Amsterdam and I can confirm there is a very clear pattern in what the average Ams man wears lol
Yes haha! Nothing wrong with conformity but I know that he likes modern art and has an eye for colour and composition. It's so great to see that his creative side is growing! ❤
Clothes can be fascinating simply because they are with us through many trials and horrors. I love how this video shows us how clothes are part of survival and resistance. I hope you will continue to explore this.
This is by far one of the most interesting videos I’ve seen regarding to fashion. And while I absolutely love all the ideas bliss put forth, as someone who lives under a fundamentalist regime who understands the struggles of being forced into a set of fashion options that aren’t my own choices, in prada’s works I saw an aspect of sneaking in your own expression of individuality into a forced archetype chosen for you by the state. A sense of rebelliousness, of modifying the clothes just enough to hint at others like you that you aren’t conforming to the rules of those controlling you. Like a little wink, a tiny breath of freedom in the middle of what is otherwise chains on your individuality.
I appreciate so much your work!!! We live in a time when unfortunatelly there is little understanding and appreciation of true artistry and I am so glad that someone like you does all this research and presents it to the public! You cannot imagine how happy this makes me!
I can’t help but be so thankful because I learned a ton of new things after watching your video. I felt Prada must have some deep stories behind but never knew this level of nuances. Thank you so much, you make fashion deep and exciting!
Okay, I'm not really used to being impressed by TH-cam content anymore but your knowledge and presentation blew me away! Great job, it was well researched and equally funny and informative 👏 Come paycheck time, I'll be heading to your Patreon, I'd love to learn more 😊
Uno dei tuoi video migliori di sempre! I’m very happy to see your channel and analysis growing in quality like this. Grazie
This is maybe my favorite video you have ever done (neck and neck with the shoulder video). Amazing work here. Your analysis was so good
This video is so amazingly and thoroughly researched, and your analysis of this fashion show amazed me to no end! Thanks a lot, you did an incredible job ❤
👏👏👏This is what passion and research looks like! I love how well you explain everything, plus the reference content helps a lot as well.
This was such a well put together video! I’m just dipping my toes into all things fashion and the history of it and you’re channel has been incredibly helpful in that. Keep up the great work!
Glad you enjoyed it!💫💫
only youtuber that i found who can talk about fashion and the meaning behind it. I love the history and knowledge shared. i absolutely have to sub.
ive never commented, but ive been watching passively for awhile now. selective videos, just of designers i enjoy. i recommended the "understanding vetements" video in a local bookstore to a worker. thanks for the content.
Damn, this made my week. Thanks homie, I really appreciate it 💫💫
Thank you for your videos. I always loved art and fashion (despite being an economist as a profession). I had been searching for my joy in fashion looking at the labels or the likes on instagram, but always leaving feeling somewhat empty. Your videos have been a great joy to me. I feel like I finally found what I like. That is the level of fashion that gives me joy. Truly inspiring. Thank you!
This video is incredible!! Thank you so much Bliss, your work is impeccable 🤩🤩
The idea of fashion being "above politics" is so hilarious to me😂
For sure. The attempt to “opt out” of politics is one of many reasons that fashion isn’t taken seriously. I wish more designers would find smart ways to incorporate politics: something more than slogans on tshirts.
@@BlissFosterBS. Politics are in way too many things already. Just leave fashion alone. I'm so tired of beer, ice cream, cars or whatever being politicized by brands by hiring some ridiculous trans activists or rhings like Trump sneakers and whatnot.
@@Baracuda-xj6zkyou like it or not fashion is and has always been political. People who dont want anything to do with politics are often the same who dont know shit about politics
One of my favorite videos you’ve ever made 👌
honestly one of my fav TH-cam videos ever, no lie
one of the most interesting, in depth fashion videos i’ve seen in a while. thank you for this!
Could you imagine a world where somebody could have a doctorate in political science and also be a prominent fashion designer? I feel like we're going backwards with our society and wonder what viewpoints we're missing out on, just because everything has to be so specialized now.
To be fair though, Miuccia Prada did not create Prada, the brand had existed long before she was even born. In other words, she's a heiress, a nepo baby if you want, but what she did incredibly well is take this small Italian brand into a worldwide mega phenomenon all on the strength of her designs. So maybe we'll have a new Fendi generation who will have had a PhD too, or from another family, who knows.
It is fair to point out that she resisted the idea of taking charge of Prada because of her view on the fashion industry at the time. Even so, when faced with the challenge, she went above and beyond any expectations and made Prada what it is today, together with Patrizio Bertelli. She's amazing, truly
you are amazing. this is my first video from you but omg this is like erin parsons makeup research and explanations but with fashion. subscribing and can NOT wait for more.
I just left architecture to start studying ti become a leatherworker. You are definitely one of my inspirations to get into fashion Thank you so much for your videos
Honored. Can’t wait to see what you make 💫💫
Can you make me suits :D.
@@lioninguccisuit hhaahah I’m not sure. It’s mostly bags and small leather goods
Hey Bliss, i really appreciate the work you guys put into these videos. As a fashion student i love learning through your content. Cheers!
Thank you for my first exposure to the historical context and cultural nuance of fashion! Fantastic vid
I freaking love this type of content!! Amazing work
I love it. My grandmother came from Italy to Argentina in 1953. She was 10 years old. She sews so I think she would love this video too
This was so insightful and informative, thank you for dropping so much knowledge. Great job as always! ✨
Thank you so much for this video. I think you are the first fashion youtuber who was able to give an analysis that leans in and acknowledges the political realities and how even in fashion there is still politics present if you know where to look (although I still find the silhouttes of the Miuccia's collection still pretty so maybe I just don't have a refined enough eye to see how it is unflattering).
You provide such genuine and engaging fashion commentary thank you Bliss
Hey Bliss, this video is so great, thank you for making this!!
Bliss I just want you to know that I have personally recommended your channel many times!! And will continue to do so. Always good content, you are the goat
Wow, thank you, homie! Means a lot 💫💫
Your breakdown of the historical context is spot on!
Great video! It was super interesting to watch!
The pattern thing reminded me of: Made in Italy is still a huge marketing/quality thing and it’s also known that to produce it as cheep as possible Italy companies produce in in china only attach labels in Italy and claim it is made in Italy. Since the last step was made there it is even legal.
Loved the video.
Dr. Prada. Love that. This a an exceptional video giving us all the history we so need -- especially now.
beautiful work, bliss!
miuccia reminds me of so many of my school friends and my mother. their style might be seen as a little satirical but jokes aside they stablished the platform to the future both aesthetically and with wisdom. they are miuccia's classmates. they are the best people we know.
Loveee the content about brands history!!❤
as always, the smartest fashion TH-camr out there, with real insight, history and discourse to support his/her/their arguments.
This is such an amazingly done video thank you! I wish i could have shown this to my nonna. She was a strong feminist who lived in Italy during and after the war a has spoken about the effects it had. She would of loved this.
You are an amazing human being thank you for all the videos. Been watching for a couple years and this is somehow my first time commenting thank you.
The nuance, charm, knowledge, insight, professionalism and humor woven into such an intelligent and well researched video make it as much of a statement against fascism as some of the designers it covers. I believe that regardless of what we are passionate about it speaks through whatever we create. If we really believe in something passionately it can’t help but be a part of what we do and I believe there is a deep passion and responsibility against all things fascist that runs as deep as a love of all things fashion on display here. That kind of passion and representation is easily the most powerful thing fashion can do. Always astounded by this channel.
Love this channel !
its been sooooo hard finding any high fashion analysis from a more leftist perspective so thank you for this
Don’t get me wrong, btw I also love his videos, but it’s not that hard to find fashion analysis from leftists perspective, so where are you looking for them? Because to my knowledge fashion industry it’s very liberal/eft centered etc.. (not a hate comment just observation)
@@user-by5fn6yz7s i think we have different definitions of left. like yeah most people in fashion and talking about fashion are pretty liberal, but ive never seen anyone mention miuccia prada's communist roots, let alone analyze how it connects to her work. i'm probably missing someone, but i personally haven't seen anyone else talk about fashion with any serious class consciousness
@@user-by5fn6yz7sliberal = democrats (if you’re American), leftist = socialist. Huge difference
Rian phin (thatadult) i would recommend
@@user-by5fn6yz7s the American political speech has kind of twisted this, so maybe that's why it confused you. Basically, radical left (socialist and communists) are polar opposite to liberals. Now, the US divides liberalism in democrats (progressists) and Republicans (conservatives). In this context the left has voted with democrats (cause there's only two options and one is more to the right) but the democratic party is still very much right-wing. The progressist left, what you called liberals there, usually differ from the radical left for their defense of social-democracies whilst maintaining a liberal/capitalist economic and political structure. Sorry for the long message, hope it helped 😄
I love it when you put history into the fashion analysis. Great video, I'd love to watch more content like this one.
I would love to see a full documentary or film about the origins of Prada because this is so interesting
Thank you very much for this fascinating deep dive into Italian (fashion) history. Wish I had known about this first Prada Collection, and its connection to Italian Fascism, back in University when I wrote a paper about the Fashion Administrations (Modeämter) in Nazi Germany. They did similar things concerning women's fashion, making it more German. But the projects were much more elitist and niche, places for teaching elite girls and young Women about how to design and make German Couture. They developed what could be one of the first (?) plexiglass high heels during WWII, because other materials were scarce because of the war effort, but surplus from the arms factories found their ways to the islands of fashion.
thankyou for all the info, bliss! (&mrs.bliss) as a huge fan of mamma miuccia, we all know she likes to design around challenges about what she doesn't like and turns them into things she and other people can wear. this really is very chef's kiss for a 1st collection. thankyou, loveyoutoo, will send the vid to a friend (coz i am one of those who literally can't join the Patreon as of yet - tird worldian). peace.
This was a really fascinating insight into Prada, thank you. The relationship between war and fashion has always been interesting to me.
Finding your channel is freaking my soul
love these deep dives into one collection one house moto... all of it
And this is why I love it when women are in charge of the major fashion houses. The conversations that pick through history in order to comment on it - the personal really is brought to the political. I admire the opening of a conversation about the results of the limitations dictated by the local dictator. If anything, it's an example that the remaining historic houses like Channel, Dior and Schiaparelli may just want to emulate as we start drawing closer to the 100 year anniversaries coming up in the next decade of this century. Ignoring the relationships they had to fascist dictators does no one any favours. Seeing as we're living in a world where we are again flirting with the strong-man image of leadership - the conversation needs to happen.
Here's the irony that makes me almost laugh. The designated look for Italian woman during the war was already emerging, globally, in the mid to late 30's with the raised hemline and the nipped-in waistline. Of course, a group of pasty-faced politico men seated around the committee table are going to ignore that and claim it as their own original thought. The end result being women on either side of the dictator line are wearing very similar garments during the war.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
just sent my mentor your educational playlist i learn so much from this account!!!
GREAT GREAT EPISODE thank you so much 🧡
First time viewer!! Love the content and casual canter!!
what a wonderful job of research and homework, I am now a true fan of yours.
this is my favorite video from you. very good job
Great as always, thanks for your work.
I always appreciate when storytelling comes from the artists truth and is expressed within the design of their work, timelessness with purpose >
Just wonderful Information....thank you so very much...excellent presentation!!!!now the HUGO BOSS Story!!!
amazing! thank u, first video of you that i ve watched and instant fan
Welcome in! As you watch thru other episodes, I’d love to hear your thoughts 💫💫
That was beautiful! Great work!
This one is going to blow up, amazing work!
Definitely new learnings for me (as per usual).
The incredible level of nuance
And this video really highlights how complex context can be. It’s so fascinating to learn about and to gain a better understanding of the depth of the creative process.
Thank you
Thank you for making this extremely important video. You rock!
Dang, this is awesome. You laid your argument and evidence wonderfully.
Incredible video thank you
uno dei tuoi video più interessanti, love it
bravo!!! thank you very much for this!! Art history IS history, period!
Great work man, I’m really learning a lot from you
I hope to have just 1 tenth of the passion and sincerity that you have, towards ANYTHING I do... Amazing work Bliss. 🙏🏽❤
It seems like fashion in the past was much more political, much more of a social statement, tied to real world events. Fashion in modern times is more about "vibes" and personal style, with the odd moments of wearing a certain color on a certain holiday.
Thanks for these videos
Oh fashion and history together I’m geeking😊
This is a very interesting one. Thank you for another thought-provoking video.
i really liked this video, thank you for unveiling some of the dark mysticism behind this brand, I never really understood it and I wouldnt quite understand why!!
👩🍳💋!!! Bravo for so eloquently explaining how sometimes clothes are more than merely garments we dress ourselves in. Sometimes they encapsulate and evoke entire emotions, ideas, and worlds. Far from frivolous!
thanks for another great video, Bliss!
This is such an interesting video and definitely makes me want to learn more.
This is just SO BRILLIANT!
Love your videos
outstanding video!!
This video is incredible omg the part on the blazer pockets 🤯
I could watch hours of this history, so interesting
One day I will sign up your patreon Bliss! Maybe next year, I love love love your work.❤ Love from Brazil🇧🇷
Great content! Thank you so much ♥
Thanks so much for this mr. & mrs. Bliss would loveee to see more videos about political influence on fashion! Great great job
amazing material
Thank you for this amazing analysis! ❤️
loved this video!
Love your video
loved the video, very good recommendation from a friend of mine yesterday
You post the best content thank u