Chanel killed me... When people buy these items, I'm sure they never think about all the hard work behind. There still is a human cost, even in France. We all are passionate about our job, but it is a fact that the working condition did'nt change much in a century inside the ateliers working for these brands. I was unable to continue working at 35 because of the way we need to place the tweed on huge tables with big needles before the cut, awfully hard for the backspine. I'm unable to sew now, eventhough if I had the chance I would do it again. We trully put our souls into our work. Thanks for your vidéos! Emmanuelle, couturière luxe from Normandie.
In an interview, Ralph Rucci once noted that while it's great these atelier's still exist, access to them changed after Chanel acquired them. If you aren't one of the major houses (with major house budgets) you simply can't afford Lesage for your collections. I'm not talking about just student designers but also about respected independent designers without corporate-sized backing. So, the industry finds itself in the same position as so many other culturally relevant creators. (I'm reminded of HBO acquiring Sesame Street for instance. I know they're not the same thing.) We live in a world now where artisanship that had been widely accessible (I remember reading once that Lesage-like embroiders used to number into the hundreds in France at the beginning of the 20th century) are now gate-kept by corporations. When the alternative is considered-complete obliteration of the heritage-I guess it's the lesser of two evils? I don't really know how to feel about it, but I don't love it. lol
These houses, which a lot of them closed, needed the money to keep up. Feather houses shoulder pad, embroidery house, take a lot of work to keep going. It is sad that smaller designers can't call on them like that use to
I am grateful that these historic houses exist and have a platform for their incredible work - which I assume is mainly couture. That being said, it feels sad that this incredible work is now mainly serving to sell consumers the idea of heritage and quality to the average “luxury” consumer through the trickle down from the couture shows. So much of what is considered “luxury” fashion today just feels like extremely expensive fast fashion and the smoke and mirrors of quality and cache. I know you don’t generally do business side of things but I’d love to see a video on what you see as the future of “luxury” in fashion or even just the current state.
While I have no personal familiarity with the couture lines, I have noticed that the quality of the ready to wear lines of the luxury brand fashion houses has suffered in recent years. I doubt that this is by accident. You would think that with the attention paid to detail in the couture line, it would trickle down through the rest of the collections. Apparently not.
Sadly, the quality just isn’t there anymore.... Every week there’s someone online complaining about their bag being destroyed after a couple of uses or their shoes, brooches and other items falling apart. A clutch I wore 3 times looks older than my pieces from 2007.. Sadly, the money goes towards marketing, not product quality. Recently there was an article online about factory workers (the factory isn’t owned by Chanel but they are contracted by them) working in such bad conditions, Zara seemed humane in comparison. Keep your coins people
Absolutely, as I mentioned in the video, all of Chanel’s products do not have the quality of the items in this video. Here, we’re just discussing the high-end, artisinal work. Could you link me that article on Instagram please? Would love to read it 💫💫
@@BlissFoster Omg looks like my 2nd comment didn’t get posted… Yes, Chanel nowadays focuses quality only on Haute Couture and other higher price range services 😭 I’ve sent you a link on ig 💕
@BlissFoster but the problem is it is not “High end, artisanal work” when it falls apart in 20mins of wear or the garment sizing is all over the place. It is just BS Shein masquerading in high art. At some point even as fashion designers / enthusiast we have to draw the line and recognize the rotten fish in the room.
I had a guy talking at my fashion program who works as a fabric designer that also manufactures for Chanel. He told us that for some fabrics they develop special machines (only for a single technique). That’s why some fabrics can go upwards 8k for 1 meter.
It’s not ripping them off if the house incurs huge costs. Chef’s who run sushi omakase’s have to charge high prices ($300+) per person for dinner because the cost of the ingredients is so high. These restaurants often only just break even since they will also have no more then 10 seats in the restaurant.
*EVERYONE INTERESTED IN FASHION* should make a Chanel Tweed Jacket - there are many excellent courses but make sure you do it at a high detail level. You will learn SO MUCH, for starters you will learn you can do it and you really can, but the Chanel Tweed Jacket is kinda the break point between modern tailoring and traditional bespoke. Its what EVERY mass produced jacket desperately wants to be. But you will also learn why they can NEVER be. Bespoke is about the production of perfection, this is the perfection of production...
_This_ is the sewing mountain I am aiming to climb. Chanel jacket first. Dior Bar Jacket second (because getting that flair at the hemline appears to be a combination of skill and the correct offerings to the sewing gods - both the old and the new). Basically, I'm slowly sewing my way through the 20th century to learn as much as I possibly can in preparation for an MA in Art History in order to slant things towards fashion history. And, agreed, mass production will never be a match for bespoke... from tailored jackets all the way down the difficulty scale to a simple circle skirt. Things that are made to the body's dimensions will always trump the 'kind-a sort-a maybe' fit of mass production. Ironically enough, mass production means that learning how to achieve _that_ fit of the high-end ateliers is all the more difficult. If for no other reason, that we literally don't know how fabric is suppose to hang on the body because the only truly fitted garment the majority of people wear is their wedding gear (btw - congrats Bliss on the newly minted matrimony!). The only time we get glimpse of a proper fit is red carpets and runway shows - which delete the vast majority of human figures. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@stevezytveld6585 - OH and the other thing I forgot, LEARN TO PATTERN DRAFT if you have not done so already. It really is not that difficult, its basic maths and logic, once you master it you will easily be able to look at a fashion plate and draft a pattern to make it.
@@stevezytveld6585 Honestly - ITS NOT THAT HARD. Dont think of it as a "mountain to climb". Think of it as one tiny job after another. When you come to do a patch pocket for the first time - do 10 of them on scrap fabric, then when you come to do a double welted cross pocket - do 10 of them on scrap fabric, learn how thin fabric reacts differently in a cross pocket to thick fabric.
@@stevezytveld6585 When you come to make a Chanel jacket - and you CAN make one next week - buy at least 1.5 X if not 2 X the fabric. When you come to do a pocket - try the pocket on a piece of the ACTUAL fabric, so you know how much it frays, how it behaves. YOU might need to add a little fusible interfacing to the back to stabilise it.
@@stevezytveld6585 The key is to NEVER ruin the garment you are making by doing something for the first time on the garment, and always have enough fabric to re cut a panel or two, cos loose weave tweed is a NIGHTMARE to unpick. And then THREAD MARK your sew lines - until you get really advanced where you are half drafting half draping - thread mark every seam line on every piece
Here goes…I’m a furniture designer. Blessed that one of Americas premier companies Kittinger was based where I grew up in Buffalo NY. I was a union cabinetmaker before being hired into the design department…a staunchly blue collar guy turned white collar. In the plant, we knew we made the finest American reproductions from museum programs like Colonial Williamsburg and private home collections like The Breakers in Newport. In the design office I was able to visit and document pieces in those collections. Then and even more so now, public opinion in some quarters scoffs with the thinnest level of understanding at the exorbitance of the thing without appreciation that behind the thing are so many worthy individuals. Artisans to whom it’s not lost that they practice at the absolute top of their trade. It’s the patrons sure, but it’s the people that are provided for whether working to build and gild an overgrown “Cottage” in Rhode Island of some 19th century robber baron from NYC, or the amazing folks you brought attention to here. Had to comment. I think your videos and content are first rate, thank you and I’m planning to be a Patreon shortly through a brand I’m starting intent on giving a platform to artists and makers.
I love that Chanel has preserved the skill sets of our collective cultural grandparents. Although it brings up the conundrum that, if the brand fails, they also bring down all of that knowledge. Mono-cultures, both in agriculture and elsewhere, have their own unique problems. And, yes, dear little Coco was a Nazi. As we move into the 2030's and anniversaries start to land it's something the house is going to need to address. Somehow. Like I said, if the house goes down they'll bring down the collective of skills they've amassed. On behalf of my Isle of Lewis Grandparents - I'm concerned for the artisans. Not so much with preserving the myth that Chanel built for herself - that needs to get blown out of the water. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Apparently Karl Lagerfeld’s parents where members of the Nazi party as well (the nuance being that they were sort of forced to join in order to survive). But he moved from Germany to France to work in French fashion and eventually worked for Chanel.
@@barttrodd7918 I've heard that Lagerfeld leaned towards the anti-Semitic in his beliefs and comments. Given the age he grew up in - not so surprising. The bio's skip over how he got out of mandatory service in the German children's part of the army. The bio's tend to emphasize how he was homeschooled/self-taught. And Christian Dior did drawings of dresses for the girlfriends and wives of Nazi officers after he had done his time in the French Army. The brand presently leans pretty heavily into his sisters work in the Resistance. No mention of his work during the war itself. And Schiaparelli was under O.S.I. (precursor to the CIA) surveillance while she was living in NY during the war itself. She was one of the few refugees who retained title on her properties in France. The assumption being she made some sort of deal. And no one ever talks about how the Hermes family maintained control of their company during occupation. Basically, _all_ the heritage fashion houses have a whole bunch of questions that need to be answered. Unfortunately the answers lie in the paperwork left behind in the Nazi archives... Anniversaries for various parts of the Nazi Regime are coming up on the horizon. Documents are still being declassified. Questions will be asked... We need to learn the complete history. That's the only way the consumer can be armed with the knowledge that will let them decide if they invest in a brand. Let the myth of non-collaboration die. The only thing I really fear is how these niche industries, supported only by the large houses, will survive the aftermath of a company like Chanel going down...
@@stevezytveld6585 oh I didn’t know about those other details involving those other houses! And yeah I have no idea how well they will do or not 🤷🏼 I’ve seen quite a few people turned off by the Chanel price increases and it doesn’t help that the new head of Chanel doesn’t seem to inspire the way Karl did.
@@barttrodd7918 Yeah, history kind of sucks. But hiding from it does no favours to anyone. It's a nightmare for Marketing - I dunno, maybe if they sponsor a documentary going over the darker bits of history? I have to kind of wonder if it's part of the price jack on the Chanel purses. The quality slide has to be connected to trying to churn out the most product before we hit 2033? I actually like the couture wares that have come out of Chanel since Karl. And I like that two women are running the most successful fashion houses - both Chanel and Dior - have women designing for women. Finally... I just wish the media gave them both equal coverage. Karl was such a diva that he just attracted the media like moth to flame. He had well over a million per year for his private floral arrangement gifts to friends... that story writes itself...
The quality of designer brands has gotten shockingly bad, to the point where the only clothes I dont make myself I get made by local craftsman and seamstresses. Too many brands cut corners now.
I could watch production videos for HOURS!!! They satisfy my curiosity about things I see in everyday life. This video was a real treat, thank you. (If anyone has links to MORE PRODUCTION VIDEOS, drop 'em below plz plz plz)
2:43 These silk flowers are very intricately made using forms and stamps which mimic the actual petals for different species of flower. Not only that, but many of these stamps aren't made anymore, so the flowers made using them are all the more precious.
Do these independent atiliers sell directly to the public? If so I'm just going directly to them and buying jewlery, tweed and shoes :) Who needs the Channel logo when you can get the quality on its own.
Thanks for this video, Bliss. I always appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into these heritage luxury brands and I can see why they are priced the way they are. But I also think that some of the recent price increases, especially in the eve of a looming recession, are a bit much given recent news of quality issues in their handbags.
I knew about the Nazi connection and that always bothered me. However, the history of the companies that make Chanel....Chanel is still fascinating....Good talk....continued success.
Crazzzyyy crazy insights. Thanks for sharing this knowledge. Just a feedback - would be helpful to use subtitles for specific names like vendor, manufacturer etc for better clarification
Love your videos. And chanel is most definitely selling it's heritage. If it is what most are buying? No, it is not. They are buying status and it looks pitiful.
Fascinating information - it helps me see (as an aspiring jewlery designer launching sometime this year) that even massive brands know the value in buying specialized knowledge. AKA you dont need to make everything yourself - just have the resources to outsource to the right supplier OR better yet aquire it.
That ended cracked me up because it was so unexpected - but I appreciated it because I don't understand why more people don't talk about her Nazi ties. Also I've heard the bag quality has gone wayyy down hill in the past several years. Seems odd that their quality is going down but prices are going up. I don't own anything from Chanel.
Chanel has become CRAP! Ever since the death of Karl, the bags have been ripping, some of the shoes have been breaking. And they continue to raise prices at least once or twice a year.
Even it’s a truth those ateliers were merged by Chanel. But this isn’t the excuse which chanel design so ugly items. They should create much stunning and gorgeous clothing with the favor of these unique and precious ateliers . Seems like really ironic after the videos I feel.
14:28 Also Coco Chanel was a Nazi 😂 That's hysterical. Another content creator I follow said the exact same thing the same way too...like, just slipping this Fact in there for y'all.
Not sure about the Nazi claims but i do think Chanel tweed classic jacket and skirt looked like an outdated uniform maybe inspired by the Nazis. I nevner liked Chanel estetic, seemed uncreative and like a plain money grab. Im out of it.
So there seems to be the poorly made Chanel, sold to the poor and aspirationists, and then there's the actual, high quality Chanel. But is there any way to get one of those high quality pieces? Even people who have lots of money might simply not know where to buy the real stuff and just spend their money on crappy Chanel.
You make an appointment with Chanel in Paris. Go there, pick out what you want and they will make it for you. Depending on the item, they will even come to you, regardless of where you live in the world, for the fitting and any necessary alterations. Be prepared to pay the big bucks for the quality and the service.
One aspect available to the mortal realm, while also a staple of the couture gods, is lace, specifically Solstiss Dentelle. Solstiss is a privately owned company manufacturing what I believe to be the finest, most beautiful Leavers lace in the world, supplying their astonishingly gorgeous works of art to Elie Saab, Chanel, Ralph & Russo, just to name a few. I have had the distinct honor and privilege of working with Solstiss for the last 20 years. They only sell wholesale, but every once in a while what is left of our better retail fabric stores might house a piece or two of Solstiss Dentelle. The only time I have seen it sold retail is at International Silks and Woolens in Los Angeles…another gem for those who love luxury fabrics.
The Dior products shown at 7:51 are not made by Lesage. Those pieces are from Dior Cruise 2022 collection showcased in Athens and all the embroideries were the making of a small Greek embroidery house called « Aριστo Τεχνημα» (Aristo Technima) located in the city of Arta. These embroideries are inspired from traditional embroideries found on the uniform vests of the Greek presidential guards.
"Also, Coco Chanel was a nazi. Have a good day." Right on. This was super interesting, and it was the "Behind the Bastards" podcast episode about Coco Chanel that got me into watching youtube videos about fashion. And I'm glad I did because there's a lot more to it, and it's more interesting than I thought it would be.
Seriously this video seems like collab with Chanel. Eveyting is wonderful, heritage, amazing and lux... Bla bla bla.. Branding brandig branding... Not even a word about actual human side of the story, how much the "small hands" manufacturing the products earn and how are they valued in coin? The same with shady history if the brand. It's also rasism and antysemitism of it's founder. She was a terrible person as sane a Lagerfeld. You coud start to promote small brands of desigers with fresh vision and right attitude instead of praising that old fashion houses. Its all gate keeping. Many new desigers would love to implement that ateliers work but bussiness keep it for themselves buy buying out everyting into huge corporations.
The price includes all their PR cost for the VVIP, The more PR things the do which you can see the dramatic increase in recent years, the price becoming unreasonable.
Very informative and thorough video! But why are we so obsessed with chanel and lv? There are AMAZING international designers from all over the world but we are hyper focused on these brand labels that have put designers out of jobs and probably stole designs too. The world does not consist of just these fashion houses. I wish poeple would look past them and start seeing there's more out there instead of being very western/euro centric. Either way great video.
Hi! Thanks so much for the comment. We focus on a wide variety of designers. This Chanel video is a bit of an outlier for us. If you’d like some more international voices, you should check out our recent video from Berlin Fashion Week 💫💫
Love the investment in these artisans that benefit the broader sector as well. Regardless of the focus on profit, ensuring the sustainability of these crafts is culturally critical.
You know as a kid watching those movies ? Like the hunger games or something. And every district having its own speciality and i always was like “its soooo cool ! ( i wasnt aware of dystopia’s when i was 12 ) but we really do have it, like watching all these houses dedicated to mastering a certain field and them all working together under such a massive house as chanel is insane
Chanel WAS NOT a Nazi/sympathizer… you apparently didn’t do ur research well enough to sort fact from fiction. & Too bad the “leather” bags seem to be going downhill in quality quicker than they can raise their prices. I put “leather” in quotes bc it appears they’re resorting to composite leather to make bags they charge 10K for. Unreal. 🙄
“In late 2014, French intelligence agencies declassified and released documents confirming Coco Chanel's role with Germany in World War II. Working as a spy, Chanel was directly involved in a plan for the Third Reich to take control of Madrid. Such documents identify Chanel as an agent in the German military intelligence, the Abwehr. Chanel visited Madrid in 1943 to convince the British ambassador to Spain, Sir Samuel Hoare, a friend of Winston Churchill, about a possible German surrender once the war was leaning towards an Allied victory. One of the most prominent missions she was involved in was Operation Modellhut ("Operation Model Hat"). Her duty was to act as a messenger from Hitler's Foreign Intelligence to Churchill, to prove that some of the Third Reich attempted peace with the Allies.” ➖➖➖ If you have any evidence that demonstrates Coco Chanel was not a nazi, I’d love to read it 💫💫
There was some back and forth about this topic ten years ago, but it has now been confirmed that she was knowingly a Nazi agent. Go check the sources under her Wiki article, it’s all there 💫💫
didn't catch the name of the first workshop. that and the 2nd one i haven't heard of/seen in process vids (wasn't watching anything fashion for a time) but which is ur actual fave, the jewels or the pleats? hehe also, guess that's why dior is subcontracting to places like india, Africa and mexico more and more and this is why sea of shoes or somebody said, "you don't diss the chanel show". alas, sometimes the savoir-faire is misdirected generally even if heaven is in the details
That is all good and fine, but the Chanel purse, whose quality has gone down while its price has gone up, shows little of this unique craftsmanship. Frankly it is just a stitched together purse.
I'm over modern Chanel. It looks like architecture rather than clothing with stupidly oversize Logos - It's kind of like Carhartt for the Women about town. I prefer subtle small logos near the cuff or lapel where you actually have to come up and LOOK to see what the person is wearing. Actually TALK to them find out what they're ABOUT, perhaps you'll make a lifetime CONNECTION with the person and you'll be GLAD you did! I'm sorry but they are exhausting the cachet of their house classics by continually retreading the same old looks from the 50s and 90s. It's funny you mentioned ownership, it must be one of a handful of brands that aren't owned by Michael Kors Group..
Your communicative skills are superb. Artisans at work, are so underrated. Please respect sacrifice, hunger for knowledge, respect hard learned knowhow.
Interesting for those that did not already known these things but, please call them craftsmen and talk about the their skill and craftsmanship. An artisan bakes bread. And, many of the companies Chanel now owns were about to close down, as the skills are mostly called upon for the making of model items (things for fashion shows) rather than client orders.
The OED says Craftsman: “A person with a special skill, especially one who makes beautiful things by hand.” Artisan: “A person who does skilled work, making things with their hands.” Then it specified for “artisan” that a synonym is “craftsman” 💫💫
Having worked in a couture house, l feel l can safely say that none of the workroom staff would describe the work as that of an artisan. Artisan has become a fashionable word, it is one of many synonyms for craftsman, others being maker, journeyman, specialist and mechanic!
I am curious how much the artisans earn? We use to throw these cliché like heritage, savoir-faire, history of the couture etc... so is person who do embroidery, cut jewels or do feathers application rewarded? I read that these big "heritage brands" don't rush even with % raises, love to use interns, free apprentice and that the training take so long because you get much less as such then the employee with full rights. The impression you can make by saying that you work in one of these ateliers is bigger then your life status and purchasing power.
It’s the Lume Cube 5ft Light Stand Tripod; I got it on Amazon. They’re kinda pricey at $60, but I bought them bc they’re really heavy. So if I use them for a mic on a carpet or uneven floor, they’ll stay put 💫💫
But the quality has gone down on the bags! Is it because the demand is do High that they cant get the required amount of the best leather?! Because the best is limited and Hermes takes the best first. And to little bit shop the Hunt of scares bags they Rise price to Cole the demand down. This i could in one way understand. But bad quality to a bag that isnt an investment anymore? The leather is peeling off and the leathersueface is thinner. My bag is still good efter 45 years and first now started to show use. While many buyers Today seems to complain after one day use!
The ending took me out with the Heritage speech and mentioning how Coco was a nazi. Well, she was also a hater of big feet and big people especially fat people. She was a hater in general and she was highly problematic. So was Karl Lagerfeld and had the same brushes with being a Nazi even if he denied and it’s claimed to be “unclear”, a hater of fat people and a hater overall. We do not observe a pattern over here! It’s highly ironic that the brand is now completely privately owned by the Wertheimer family and they are Jewish. Coming back to the fashion aspect… Chanel is a Heritage brand wether we like it or not. It will have a long lasting history and reign for decades to come no matter how problematic the past was and no matter how boring Chanel will become. Right now it’s boring AF but who knows what the future holds in terms of creativity, certainly there is less need for creativity when one is cashing on legacy and heritage. Thank you for this video, it has enriched my knowledge.
It just rubs me the wrong way, how the idea of some clothes made by a fashion house is supposed to sell the bigger audience items that are mediocre at best. I appreciate the history, the artisans, the ideas and designs, but i honestly wish for it to be reflected in ready to wear items too. PS. As a secondhand market shopper, i come across Chanel items often, but the 14:26 alone will always drag me away from it lol.
i already knew about lesage for embroidery years ago cause you can catch them in some of there vids in the chanel channel which they slipped up letting the info out it was 1 vid
![[Full Episode] The Restaurant War Thailand ศึกพ่อค้าซ่าแม่ค้าแซ่บ Episode 2 | 29 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/r3lfLNH6Ke4/mqdefault.jpg)
Chanel killed me... When people buy these items, I'm sure they never think about all the hard work behind. There still is a human cost, even in France. We all are passionate about our job, but it is a fact that the working condition did'nt change much in a century inside the ateliers working for these brands. I was unable to continue working at 35 because of the way we need to place the tweed on huge tables with big needles before the cut, awfully hard for the backspine. I'm unable to sew now, eventhough if I had the chance I would do it again. We trully put our souls into our work. Thanks for your vidéos! Emmanuelle, couturière luxe from Normandie.
In an interview, Ralph Rucci once noted that while it's great these atelier's still exist, access to them changed after Chanel acquired them. If you aren't one of the major houses (with major house budgets) you simply can't afford Lesage for your collections. I'm not talking about just student designers but also about respected independent designers without corporate-sized backing. So, the industry finds itself in the same position as so many other culturally relevant creators. (I'm reminded of HBO acquiring Sesame Street for instance. I know they're not the same thing.) We live in a world now where artisanship that had been widely accessible (I remember reading once that Lesage-like embroiders used to number into the hundreds in France at the beginning of the 20th century) are now gate-kept by corporations. When the alternative is considered-complete obliteration of the heritage-I guess it's the lesser of two evils? I don't really know how to feel about it, but I don't love it. lol
These houses, which a lot of them closed, needed the money to keep up. Feather houses shoulder pad, embroidery house, take a lot of work to keep going. It is sad that smaller designers can't call on them like that use to
These clothings must be reserved for kings and queens.
@@Chicago48jajajaja is it ironic 😂
It's trash. My best friend has incredible talent and skill, can't sell his work for a dime.
I am grateful that these historic houses exist and have a platform for their incredible work - which I assume is mainly couture. That being said, it feels sad that this incredible work is now mainly serving to sell consumers the idea of heritage and quality to the average “luxury” consumer through the trickle down from the couture shows. So much of what is considered “luxury” fashion today just feels like extremely expensive fast fashion and the smoke and mirrors of quality and cache.
I know you don’t generally do business side of things but I’d love to see a video on what you see as the future of “luxury” in fashion or even just the current state.
While I have no personal familiarity with the couture lines, I have noticed that the quality of the ready to wear lines of the luxury brand fashion houses has suffered in recent years. I doubt that this is by accident. You would think that with the attention paid to detail in the couture line, it would trickle down through the rest of the collections. Apparently not.
Sadly, the quality just isn’t there anymore.... Every week there’s someone online complaining about their bag being destroyed after a couple of uses or their shoes, brooches and other items falling apart.
A clutch I wore 3 times looks older than my pieces from 2007..
Sadly, the money goes towards marketing, not product quality.
Recently there was an article online about factory workers (the factory isn’t owned by Chanel but they are contracted by them) working in such bad conditions, Zara seemed humane in comparison.
Keep your coins people
Absolutely, as I mentioned in the video, all of Chanel’s products do not have the quality of the items in this video. Here, we’re just discussing the high-end, artisinal work.
Could you link me that article on Instagram please? Would love to read it 💫💫
@@BlissFoster Omg looks like my 2nd comment didn’t get posted…
Yes, Chanel nowadays focuses quality only on Haute Couture and other higher price range services 😭
I’ve sent you a link on ig 💕
@BlissFoster but the problem is it is not “High end, artisanal work” when it falls apart in 20mins of wear or the garment sizing is all over the place. It is just BS Shein masquerading in high art. At some point even as fashion designers / enthusiast we have to draw the line and recognize the rotten fish in the room.
@@ech185 Periodt!
You keep your coins baby, instead buying another luxury clutch being brain washed by marketing and then complain. 😂
This was so good. Bravo for all the footage showing the amazing artistry of what goes into these pieces!
What is this applause about? The footage was just taken from other videos.
I don't like Chanel, but I am so gratefull for what they make for keeping this kind of work alive
I had a guy talking at my fashion program who works as a fabric designer that also manufactures for Chanel. He told us that for some fabrics they develop special machines (only for a single technique). That’s why some fabrics can go upwards 8k for 1 meter.
Just because it's inconvenient doesn't mean it's inherently valuable. That's just ripping people off
It’s not ripping them off if the house incurs huge costs. Chef’s who run sushi omakase’s have to charge high prices ($300+) per person for dinner because the cost of the ingredients is so high. These restaurants often only just break even since they will also have no more then 10 seats in the restaurant.
wow
*EVERYONE INTERESTED IN FASHION* should make a Chanel Tweed Jacket - there are many excellent courses but make sure you do it at a high detail level.
You will learn SO MUCH, for starters you will learn you can do it and you really can, but the Chanel Tweed Jacket is kinda the break point between modern tailoring and traditional bespoke. Its what EVERY mass produced jacket desperately wants to be. But you will also learn why they can NEVER be. Bespoke is about the production of perfection, this is the perfection of production...
_This_ is the sewing mountain I am aiming to climb. Chanel jacket first. Dior Bar Jacket second (because getting that flair at the hemline appears to be a combination of skill and the correct offerings to the sewing gods - both the old and the new). Basically, I'm slowly sewing my way through the 20th century to learn as much as I possibly can in preparation for an MA in Art History in order to slant things towards fashion history.
And, agreed, mass production will never be a match for bespoke... from tailored jackets all the way down the difficulty scale to a simple circle skirt. Things that are made to the body's dimensions will always trump the 'kind-a sort-a maybe' fit of mass production.
Ironically enough, mass production means that learning how to achieve _that_ fit of the high-end ateliers is all the more difficult. If for no other reason, that we literally don't know how fabric is suppose to hang on the body because the only truly fitted garment the majority of people wear is their wedding gear (btw - congrats Bliss on the newly minted matrimony!). The only time we get glimpse of a proper fit is red carpets and runway shows - which delete the vast majority of human figures.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@stevezytveld6585 - OH and the other thing I forgot, LEARN TO PATTERN DRAFT if you have not done so already. It really is not that difficult, its basic maths and logic, once you master it you will easily be able to look at a fashion plate and draft a pattern to make it.
@@stevezytveld6585 Honestly - ITS NOT THAT HARD. Dont think of it as a "mountain to climb". Think of it as one tiny job after another. When you come to do a patch pocket for the first time - do 10 of them on scrap fabric, then when you come to do a double welted cross pocket - do 10 of them on scrap fabric, learn how thin fabric reacts differently in a cross pocket to thick fabric.
@@stevezytveld6585 When you come to make a Chanel jacket - and you CAN make one next week - buy at least 1.5 X if not 2 X the fabric. When you come to do a pocket - try the pocket on a piece of the ACTUAL fabric, so you know how much it frays, how it behaves. YOU might need to add a little fusible interfacing to the back to stabilise it.
@@stevezytveld6585 The key is to NEVER ruin the garment you are making by doing something for the first time on the garment, and always have enough fabric to re cut a panel or two, cos loose weave tweed is a NIGHTMARE to unpick. And then THREAD MARK your sew lines - until you get really advanced where you are half drafting half draping - thread mark every seam line on every piece
Here goes…I’m a furniture designer. Blessed that one of Americas premier companies Kittinger was based where I grew up in Buffalo NY. I was a union cabinetmaker before being hired into the design department…a staunchly blue collar guy turned white collar. In the plant, we knew we made the finest American reproductions from museum programs like Colonial Williamsburg and private home collections like The Breakers in Newport. In the design office I was able to visit and document pieces in those collections. Then and even more so now, public opinion in some quarters scoffs with the thinnest level of understanding at the exorbitance of the thing without appreciation that behind the thing are so many worthy individuals. Artisans to whom it’s not lost that they practice at the absolute top of their trade. It’s the patrons sure, but it’s the people that are provided for whether working to build and gild an overgrown “Cottage” in Rhode Island of some 19th century robber baron from NYC, or the amazing folks you brought attention to here. Had to comment. I think your videos and content are first rate, thank you and I’m planning to be a Patreon shortly through a brand I’m starting intent on giving a platform to artists and makers.
I love that Chanel has preserved the skill sets of our collective cultural grandparents. Although it brings up the conundrum that, if the brand fails, they also bring down all of that knowledge. Mono-cultures, both in agriculture and elsewhere, have their own unique problems.
And, yes, dear little Coco was a Nazi. As we move into the 2030's and anniversaries start to land it's something the house is going to need to address. Somehow. Like I said, if the house goes down they'll bring down the collective of skills they've amassed. On behalf of my Isle of Lewis Grandparents - I'm concerned for the artisans. Not so much with preserving the myth that Chanel built for herself - that needs to get blown out of the water.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Apparently Karl Lagerfeld’s parents where members of the Nazi party as well (the nuance being that they were sort of forced to join in order to survive). But he moved from Germany to France to work in French fashion and eventually worked for Chanel.
@@barttrodd7918 I've heard that Lagerfeld leaned towards the anti-Semitic in his beliefs and comments. Given the age he grew up in - not so surprising. The bio's skip over how he got out of mandatory service in the German children's part of the army. The bio's tend to emphasize how he was homeschooled/self-taught.
And Christian Dior did drawings of dresses for the girlfriends and wives of Nazi officers after he had done his time in the French Army. The brand presently leans pretty heavily into his sisters work in the Resistance. No mention of his work during the war itself.
And Schiaparelli was under O.S.I. (precursor to the CIA) surveillance while she was living in NY during the war itself. She was one of the few refugees who retained title on her properties in France. The assumption being she made some sort of deal.
And no one ever talks about how the Hermes family maintained control of their company during occupation.
Basically, _all_ the heritage fashion houses have a whole bunch of questions that need to be answered. Unfortunately the answers lie in the paperwork left behind in the Nazi archives... Anniversaries for various parts of the Nazi Regime are coming up on the horizon. Documents are still being declassified. Questions will be asked...
We need to learn the complete history. That's the only way the consumer can be armed with the knowledge that will let them decide if they invest in a brand.
Let the myth of non-collaboration die. The only thing I really fear is how these niche industries, supported only by the large houses, will survive the aftermath of a company like Chanel going down...
@@stevezytveld6585 oh I didn’t know about those other details involving those other houses! And yeah I have no idea how well they will do or not 🤷🏼 I’ve seen quite a few people turned off by the Chanel price increases and it doesn’t help that the new head of Chanel doesn’t seem to inspire the way Karl did.
@@barttrodd7918 Yeah, history kind of sucks. But hiding from it does no favours to anyone. It's a nightmare for Marketing - I dunno, maybe if they sponsor a documentary going over the darker bits of history?
I have to kind of wonder if it's part of the price jack on the Chanel purses. The quality slide has to be connected to trying to churn out the most product before we hit 2033?
I actually like the couture wares that have come out of Chanel since Karl. And I like that two women are running the most successful fashion houses - both Chanel and Dior - have women designing for women. Finally... I just wish the media gave them both equal coverage.
Karl was such a diva that he just attracted the media like moth to flame. He had well over a million per year for his private floral arrangement gifts to friends... that story writes itself...
The quality of designer brands has gotten shockingly bad, to the point where the only clothes I dont make myself I get made by local craftsman and seamstresses. Too many brands cut corners now.
That's great that you are supporting local artisans though!
@@Iquey funnily enough that's how I myself got into leather craft, I now make my own jackets.
There are two things that make something luxury. Rarity and sacrifice. Everything else is common. Great talk and thank you.
I could watch production videos for HOURS!!! They satisfy my curiosity about things I see in everyday life. This video was a real treat, thank you. (If anyone has links to MORE PRODUCTION VIDEOS, drop 'em below plz plz plz)
2:43 These silk flowers are very intricately made using forms and stamps which mimic the actual petals for different species of flower. Not only that, but many of these stamps aren't made anymore, so the flowers made using them are all the more precious.
Do these independent atiliers sell directly to the public? If so I'm just going directly to them and buying jewlery, tweed and shoes :) Who needs the Channel logo when you can get the quality on its own.
the glove folk do...sorry can't remember their name but scrub through and you'll find it
Thanks for this video, Bliss. I always appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into these heritage luxury brands and I can see why they are priced the way they are. But I also think that some of the recent price increases, especially in the eve of a looming recession, are a bit much given recent news of quality issues in their handbags.
I knew about the Nazi connection and that always bothered me. However, the history of the companies that make Chanel....Chanel is still fascinating....Good talk....continued success.
Crazzzyyy crazy insights. Thanks for sharing this knowledge. Just a feedback - would be helpful to use subtitles for specific names like vendor, manufacturer etc for better clarification
"Byzantine is an actual genere of jewlery" it bugged me you didnt mention the byzantine empire, jajajaj
Love your videos. And chanel is most definitely selling it's heritage. If it is what most are buying? No, it is not. They are buying status and it looks pitiful.
Fascinating information - it helps me see (as an aspiring jewlery designer launching sometime this year) that even massive brands know the value in buying specialized knowledge. AKA you dont need to make everything yourself - just have the resources to outsource to the right supplier OR better yet aquire it.
I was born in the 90's, Chanel will always be one of my favorite houses.
That ended cracked me up because it was so unexpected - but I appreciated it because I don't understand why more people don't talk about her Nazi ties. Also I've heard the bag quality has gone wayyy down hill in the past several years. Seems odd that their quality is going down but prices are going up. I don't own anything from Chanel.
And what about Malhia Kent? Is this brand not big enough to mention or isn't it on the list because Channel doesn't own them?
I think this is specifically about the brands under Paraffection. There are still many independent ateliers making all of these things as well.
Perfect button on the episode, I lol'ed 😂
Chanel has become CRAP! Ever since the death of Karl, the bags have been ripping, some of the shoes have been breaking. And they continue to raise prices at least once or twice a year.
Even it’s a truth those ateliers were merged by Chanel. But this isn’t the excuse which chanel design so ugly items. They should create much stunning and gorgeous clothing with the favor of these unique and precious ateliers . Seems like really ironic after the videos I feel.
So glad you mentioned that at the end every time you mentioned coco I kept saying the same thing aloud to my tv 😭😭
That woman is absolutely despicable. Will I be buying the 2 toned Chanel shoes when I can afford them? Yes. 🤦🏾♀️
Billionaires are paying for what they want. Poor people are paying for an unattainable dream. Sad but true
14:28 Also Coco Chanel was a Nazi 😂 That's hysterical. Another content creator I follow said the exact same thing the same way too...like, just slipping this Fact in there for y'all.
Not sure about the Nazi claims but i do think Chanel tweed classic jacket and skirt looked like an outdated uniform maybe inspired by the Nazis. I nevner liked Chanel estetic, seemed uncreative and like a plain money grab. Im out of it.
@carrino15 Historically, Chanelle was a Nazi. A card-carrying party member. But what we have now is name only. Brand loyalty and tweed suits.
So there seems to be the poorly made Chanel, sold to the poor and aspirationists, and then there's the actual, high quality Chanel. But is there any way to get one of those high quality pieces? Even people who have lots of money might simply not know where to buy the real stuff and just spend their money on crappy Chanel.
You make an appointment with Chanel in Paris. Go there, pick out what you want and they will make it for you. Depending on the item, they will even come to you, regardless of where you live in the world, for the fitting and any necessary alterations. Be prepared to pay the big bucks for the quality and the service.
One aspect available to the mortal realm, while also a staple of the couture gods, is lace, specifically Solstiss Dentelle. Solstiss is a privately owned company manufacturing what I believe to be the finest, most beautiful Leavers lace in the world, supplying their astonishingly gorgeous works of art to Elie Saab, Chanel, Ralph & Russo, just to name a few. I have had the distinct honor and privilege of working with Solstiss for the last 20 years. They only sell wholesale, but every once in a while what is left of our better retail fabric stores might house a piece or two of Solstiss Dentelle. The only time I have seen it sold retail is at International Silks and Woolens in Los Angeles…another gem for those who love luxury fabrics.
The Dior products shown at 7:51 are not made by Lesage. Those pieces are from Dior Cruise 2022 collection showcased in Athens and all the embroideries were the making of a small Greek embroidery house called « Aριστo Τεχνημα» (Aristo Technima) located in the city of Arta. These embroideries are inspired from traditional embroideries found on the uniform vests of the Greek presidential guards.
Thanks to point that out. Unfortunately TH-camrs think they know everything and thanks every assumption as a fact and then we applaud bullshit. 🙄
The end... Lol! Hahahaha. Love your videos btw
that ending
"Also, Coco Chanel was a nazi. Have a good day." Right on. This was super interesting, and it was the "Behind the Bastards" podcast episode about Coco Chanel that got me into watching youtube videos about fashion. And I'm glad I did because there's a lot more to it, and it's more interesting than I thought it would be.
Love to see how this Chanel has grown over the year love to see it I hope u never quit
Seriously this video seems like collab with Chanel. Eveyting is wonderful, heritage, amazing and lux... Bla bla bla.. Branding brandig branding... Not even a word about actual human side of the story, how much the "small hands" manufacturing the products earn and how are they valued in coin? The same with shady history if the brand. It's also rasism and antysemitism of it's founder. She was a terrible person as sane a Lagerfeld. You coud start to promote small brands of desigers with fresh vision and right attitude instead of praising that old fashion houses. Its all gate keeping. Many new desigers would love to implement that ateliers work but bussiness keep it for themselves buy buying out everyting into huge corporations.
But in todays world, Chanel is going through a craftsmanship crisis, its a mass produced mess
this video is incredible though bliss to highlight Chanel's peak in design processes - thank you!
The price includes all their PR cost for the VVIP, The more PR things the do which you can see the dramatic increase in recent years, the price becoming unreasonable.
Very informative and thorough video! But why are we so obsessed with chanel and lv? There are AMAZING international designers from all over the world but we are hyper focused on these brand labels that have put designers out of jobs and probably stole designs too. The world does not consist of just these fashion houses. I wish poeple would look past them and start seeing there's more out there instead of being very western/euro centric. Either way great video.
Hi! Thanks so much for the comment. We focus on a wide variety of designers. This Chanel video is a bit of an outlier for us. If you’d like some more international voices, you should check out our recent video from Berlin Fashion Week 💫💫
damn this edit is amazing u been improving so much s/o from brazil your content is great
Yay! I went to Linton Tweed in Carlisle last year and bought some navy and black tweed.made a jacket and shorts.
Love the investment in these artisans that benefit the broader sector as well. Regardless of the focus on profit, ensuring the sustainability of these crafts is culturally critical.
"Also Chanel was a nazi" 😂😂 I've been waiting for you to say this throughout the whole video, and it was worth the wait.
You just keep getting better and better, Bliss - the level of journalism is insane. Vive la Chanel!
Fashion people are cool but they also seem impossible to hang out with cuz they know so much and aren’t Cezanne
Chanel quality is going down more and more, then, i think not qualify as luxury anymore.
Please do one on Hermes - from their scarves to their jewelry. ❤
You know as a kid watching those movies ? Like the hunger games or something. And every district having its own speciality and i always was like “its soooo cool ! ( i wasnt aware of dystopia’s when i was 12 ) but we really do have it, like watching all these houses dedicated to mastering a certain field and them all working together under such a massive house as chanel is insane
Thom Browne should be designing CHANEL
i do agree
Chanel WAS NOT a Nazi/sympathizer… you apparently didn’t do ur research well enough to sort fact from fiction. & Too bad the “leather” bags seem to be going downhill in quality quicker than they can raise their prices. I put “leather” in quotes bc it appears they’re resorting to composite leather to make bags they charge 10K for. Unreal. 🙄
“In late 2014, French intelligence agencies declassified and released documents confirming Coco Chanel's role with Germany in World War II. Working as a spy, Chanel was directly involved in a plan for the Third Reich to take control of Madrid. Such documents identify Chanel as an agent in the German military intelligence, the Abwehr. Chanel visited Madrid in 1943 to convince the British ambassador to Spain, Sir Samuel Hoare, a friend of Winston Churchill, about a possible German surrender once the war was leaning towards an Allied victory. One of the most prominent missions she was involved in was Operation Modellhut ("Operation Model Hat"). Her duty was to act as a messenger from Hitler's Foreign Intelligence to Churchill, to prove that some of the Third Reich attempted peace with the Allies.”
➖➖➖
If you have any evidence that demonstrates Coco Chanel was not a nazi, I’d love to read it 💫💫
Yeah I’d love to know what you know that says she wasn’t a Nazi.
There was some back and forth about this topic ten years ago, but it has now been confirmed that she was knowingly a Nazi agent. Go check the sources under her Wiki article, it’s all there 💫💫
Bliss...🐐🐐 🐐Modern-day fashion journalism at its FINEST 🐐🐐🐐
didn't catch the name of the first workshop. that and the 2nd one i haven't heard of/seen in process vids (wasn't watching anything fashion for a time)
but which is ur actual fave, the jewels or the pleats? hehe
also, guess that's why dior is subcontracting to places like india, Africa and mexico more and more
and this is why sea of shoes or somebody said, "you don't diss the chanel show".
alas, sometimes the savoir-faire is misdirected generally even if heaven is in the details
Love your channel I am a new subscriber I love fashion. Thank you for all you do!❤
That is all good and fine, but the Chanel purse, whose quality has gone down while its price has gone up, shows little of this unique craftsmanship. Frankly it is just a stitched together purse.
Reconsider your voice and accent; just doesn't suit your image
Probably one of the best videos to describe clothes making and the hard work that goes behind it.❤❤
There are hour long videos about french Savoir faire here on you tube.
¿QUE? that last second..
Look at her wiki page 💫💫
Is it just me or does he kind of look like he's standing in front of a green screen?
Congrats on your wedding Bliss 🤍
Yes, congratulations!
- Cathy (&, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Great video, Bliss! Interested to see a video like this for Balenciaga.
best video I cam across about chanel
Oh my god the detail and information packed into your videos is absolutely amazing. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!❤
“WOW those tweeds” a Chanel consumer in the 1920s and also me now in 2023
“Like stolen Chanel, lock me up in jail
Cuff me, please, 'cause this ain't fair
Dripped in my pearls like Coco Chanel”
I love the cat ear Maison Michel hat too! It reminds me of Mich Dulce’s earlier hats and she was eventually hired by Maison Michel. 🤫
I'm over modern Chanel. It looks like architecture rather than clothing with stupidly oversize Logos - It's kind of like Carhartt for the Women about town. I prefer subtle small logos near the cuff or lapel where you actually have to come up and LOOK to see what the person is wearing. Actually TALK to them find out what they're ABOUT, perhaps you'll make a lifetime CONNECTION with the person and you'll be GLAD you did! I'm sorry but they are exhausting the cachet of their house classics by continually retreading the same old looks from the 50s and 90s. It's funny you mentioned ownership, it must be one of a handful of brands that aren't owned by Michael Kors Group..
@BlissFoster! Maybe I'm too high rn and missed it but who is your outfit by??? love the trouser$
Trou is Midori Worldwide 💫💫
this man is life
Funny having an H&M add during this video
thanks for slipping in The Nazi was waiting on it . Always a treat and pleasure to watch your show!
how is the creator just casually... so... hot
You're paying for the letter C.
Fantastic detailed and in depth video Bliss Foster, thank you!
omg the cat ears hat
I will now be enforcing the use of my new title, "fashion girlfriend" at home. That is all.
The production quality of this video - impeccable
Your communicative skills are superb. Artisans at work, are so underrated. Please respect sacrifice, hunger for knowledge, respect hard learned knowhow.
Interesting for those that did not already known these things but, please call them craftsmen and talk about the their skill and craftsmanship. An artisan bakes bread. And, many of the companies Chanel now owns were about to close down, as the skills are mostly called upon for the making of model items (things for fashion shows) rather than client orders.
The OED says
Craftsman: “A person with a special skill, especially one who makes beautiful things by hand.”
Artisan: “A person who does skilled work, making things with their hands.”
Then it specified for “artisan” that a synonym is “craftsman” 💫💫
Having worked in a couture house, l feel l can safely say that none of the workroom staff would describe the work as that of an artisan. Artisan has become a fashionable word, it is one of many synonyms for craftsman, others being maker, journeyman, specialist and mechanic!
I am curious how much the artisans earn? We use to throw these cliché like heritage, savoir-faire, history of the couture etc... so is person who do embroidery, cut jewels or do feathers application rewarded? I read that these big "heritage brands" don't rush even with % raises, love to use interns, free apprentice and that the training take so long because you get much less as such then the employee with full rights. The impression you can make by saying that you work in one of these ateliers is bigger then your life status and purchasing power.
where can i acquire that weapon like tripod?
It’s the Lume Cube 5ft Light Stand Tripod; I got it on Amazon. They’re kinda pricey at $60, but I bought them bc they’re really heavy. So if I use them for a mic on a carpet or uneven floor, they’ll stay put 💫💫
You should talk the business side of things then.
The jab at the end could have come at the beginning. Nice way to reduce her role.
¡Whew!
(first time watcher, here)
I feel as if I've just done the ol' Grand Tour.
Thank you for that.
(glad I'm not paying the various hotel bills!!)
ah haha I love the ending :P
But the quality has gone down on the bags! Is it because the demand is do High that they cant get the required amount of the best leather?! Because the best is limited and Hermes takes the best first. And to little bit shop the Hunt of scares bags they Rise price to Cole the demand down. This i could in one way understand. But bad quality to a bag that isnt an investment anymore? The leather is peeling off and the leathersueface is thinner. My bag is still good efter 45 years and first now started to show use. While many buyers Today seems to complain after one day use!
The ending took me out with the Heritage speech and mentioning how Coco was a nazi. Well, she was also a hater of big feet and big people especially fat people. She was a hater in general and she was highly problematic. So was Karl Lagerfeld and had the same brushes with being a Nazi even if he denied and it’s claimed to be “unclear”, a hater of fat people and a hater overall. We do not observe a pattern over here! It’s highly ironic that the brand is now completely privately owned by the Wertheimer family and they are Jewish. Coming back to the fashion aspect… Chanel is a Heritage brand wether we like it or not. It will have a long lasting history and reign for decades to come no matter how problematic the past was and no matter how boring Chanel will become. Right now it’s boring AF but who knows what the future holds in terms of creativity, certainly there is less need for creativity when one is cashing on legacy and heritage. Thank you for this video, it has enriched my knowledge.
It just rubs me the wrong way, how the idea of some clothes made by a fashion house is supposed to sell the bigger audience items that are mediocre at best. I appreciate the history, the artisans, the ideas and designs, but i honestly wish for it to be reflected in ready to wear items too.
PS. As a secondhand market shopper, i come across Chanel items often, but the 14:26 alone will always drag me away from it lol.
Outros always on point Bliss!
i already knew about lesage for embroidery years ago cause you can catch them in some of there vids in the chanel channel which they slipped up letting the info out it was 1 vid
too expensive for moi
Last sentence - good job I was lying down, if I was sitting - I would fall of laughing.🤣 Thanks!
The quality for haute couture is amazing but for off the rack or costume jewellery, its another story.
And Karl Lagerfeld was antisemitic. Oh how the circle closed.
On one hand I am in awe of the skill in service of chanel, on the other I wish it was in sevice of something I personally like more.
Thank you for making this video. A lot of people like to shit on Chanel without knowing what they are talking about 😘😇💖
That ending was so funny -
I still don’t like Tweed! 😂 Especially not the Chanel tweed bags. I do appreciate the history.
Congrats👋