This is actually very very good! I literally just bought the G45-1500 so will definitely make sure my workshop watches this video. Thank you so much for making this informative video man! really really appreciated.
It would be messy, but OK to use. I like to make sure everything is clean, tighten the clamp just enough to seat it, tap the band with a plastic faced hammer around its diameter and then torque. IDK if it is the best way, but a good friend who was a mechanic in the air force told me that was "the way to do it!" Regardless, I think cleanliness and just taking your time to look at everything closely is the key to success! HTH, and thanks for the question! -Reed
I definitely noticed the clamp interference. It’s an absolute pain also to separate a turbine housing after it’s been run in a g series for a while. They do make really good power though. I have a g35-1050 and I made 849whp on a 2018 civic type r. I used the .83 housing so there’s definitely more power to be had on bigger exhaust housing.
I tell everybody that anti-seize is your best friend, the good copper infused stuff. Also, if you need to remove the housing after it has been heat cycled a bunch, use a propane torch to heat up the housing. It will make it so much easier to remove! -Reed
does this also apply to a g40 series? I just received mine and placed the turbine housing on and tightened the v band and noticed that it will spin freely when I have it laying horizontally, but when I place the turbocharger on a table with the compressor housing facing upwards the wheels will not spin easily when I rotate it. Is this normal? Doesn’t look like anything is touching or preventing it from spinning
Most likely this is just the bearing and seal structure creating a little bit of resistance due to the weight of the rotor group providing resistance. I would put a bit of oil with a syringe into the feed side, spin it over a few times and repeat. New turbochargers rarely have enough oil in them "as delivered". So, pre-oiling is a requirement. Just look closely at your clamp and make sure there is clearance around all of the edges, and the turbo spins freely without any mechanical noise and you should be good! If you are still concerned, you can send some pictures or more information over to my email. support@workturbochargers.com and I will be happy to help! -reed
Our WORK option gets cover machine work, seal bore coating, stainless seal bore is an option for high oxygenated fuels...we cover all of the basis on these units! Reed
The vband turbine inlet sounds great just like super duper racecar stuff. Now , take that exhaust you welded to the mating vband flange. It is warped as hell. File it down flat, now there's not enough "crimp" in the vband. It is a real thing when you are trying to diagnose problems on the dyno
Yessir...we see this on the daily. It takes somebody that fully understands the application to properly weld/fit exhaust flanges and also compressor v-bands. -reed
@@workturbo I'll take 4 bolt turbine inlet flanges, and slip-fit compressor outlet every day of the year. Any loss in turbine inlet pressure is an evil, non-recoverable loss that wreckes the whole working turbine/compressor relationship
Hi, So I bought a new Cat exhaust housing and Cat reman cartridge for my 1999 3406e 9WR. OEM Garret water cooled 1.19 unit. My original compressor housing fits too tight. No obvious housing damage/distortion. All cleaned and greased for test fit. Won’t drop down past the bump/seal-ring on the cartridge diameter. I need to be able to clock the housing, so dead-blow fit is not cool. I’ve tried heating the housing with the map torch. Still too tight. Cat wants $1200. for a new compressor housing that will probably be the same fit diameter. Thought about maybe lapping compound but reluctant to try it. Any thoughts or advice?
I have had this happen countless times when rebuilding units. The housing is most likely distorted. Take the housing to a competent machine shop that will set it up properly. Center off of the compressor wheel bore and square off of the diffuser surface, keep runout below .0005" in each plane. Put some layout fluid on the receiving ID, and make a skim pass...you should see the distortion very clearly at this point. From there, test fit the chra, remove only enough to get the two pieces to fit, do not worry about getting the whole surface cleaned up and round...just enough to get it to fit! The O ring will seal it, and you can also put a skim coat of Loctite 515 on the flange for added piece of mind! hope this helps-Reed
@@workturboWow! Thanks for sharing your experience. Loving your videos! So glad I found the channel. Absolutely the MOST educational O&R information out there. Thanks for your reply and machining advice. I followed the spirit of your advice and got a good fit today. Clearances look good by eye so far. I’ll gauge it up after fully seating and tightening on the bench. Nuff said. Oh yeah; Cat doesn’t call out an o’ring but the housing has a chamfer for such. I got an assortment of silicone o’ring stock from The O’Ring Store overnight. Made a .063 o’ring lickety-split. I’ll also add some 515 judiciously. Feeling better about the whole thing. Thanks again👍
After welding and then resurfacing turbine inlet v-bands for no leakage, then the loss of clamp, I'm kinda done with vband turbine inlets for street stuff. ANY loss in turbine drive pressure wrecks the whole deal. Give me a 4 bolt turbine inlet flange. A stainless gasket for thin stuff, or no gasket with thick cast flanges
This is actually very very good! I literally just bought the G45-1500 so will definitely make sure my workshop watches this video. Thank you so much for making this informative video man! really really appreciated.
Welcome! -Reed
Very good info! Not gonna lie, for the money, some indexing features would be nice.
What up 802 Garage!
@@baby-sharkgto4902 Yooo! Just tryna get projects done. 😂
These guys out here spending 7k+ on turbos and I am fine with putting Alibaba turbo on my daily. 😅
@@chrisjay7736 I mean big same. Borg Warner makes the best bang for buck big brand turbos IMO. Garrett's pricing is kinda wild.
@@802Garage pulsarr
Does it sound stupid to use a light lub film similar to ARP lub on the flange to help the band seat?
It would be messy, but OK to use. I like to make sure everything is clean, tighten the clamp just enough to seat it, tap the band with a plastic faced hammer around its diameter and then torque.
IDK if it is the best way, but a good friend who was a mechanic in the air force told me that was "the way to do it!"
Regardless, I think cleanliness and just taking your time to look at everything closely is the key to success!
HTH, and thanks for the question! -Reed
I definitely noticed the clamp interference. It’s an absolute pain also to separate a turbine housing after it’s been run in a g series for a while. They do make really good power though.
I have a g35-1050 and I made 849whp on a 2018 civic type r. I used the .83 housing so there’s definitely more power to be had on bigger exhaust housing.
I tell everybody that anti-seize is your best friend, the good copper infused stuff. Also, if you need to remove the housing after it has been heat cycled a bunch, use a propane torch to heat up the housing. It will make it so much easier to remove! -Reed
That is a nice turbo for sum reason
thanks for the info great video!
use a flex extention to tighten that clamp, when it buckles its tight enough
does this also apply to a g40 series? I just received mine and placed the turbine housing on and tightened the v band and noticed that it will spin freely when I have it laying horizontally, but when I place the turbocharger on a table with the compressor housing facing upwards the wheels will not spin easily when I rotate it. Is this normal? Doesn’t look like anything is touching or preventing it from spinning
Most likely this is just the bearing and seal structure creating a little bit of resistance due to the weight of the rotor group providing resistance.
I would put a bit of oil with a syringe into the feed side, spin it over a few times and repeat. New turbochargers rarely have enough oil in them "as delivered". So, pre-oiling is a requirement.
Just look closely at your clamp and make sure there is clearance around all of the edges, and the turbo spins freely without any mechanical noise and you should be good!
If you are still concerned, you can send some pictures or more information over to my email. support@workturbochargers.com and I will be happy to help! -reed
is the ported shroud slot better ported more than stock?
Our WORK option gets cover machine work, seal bore coating, stainless seal bore is an option for high oxygenated fuels...we cover all of the basis on these units! Reed
Does the bands do stretch and flare out bolt style was a lot more reliable
The bolt down housings were a more user friendly for the novice for sure! -Reed
Thanks mate
The vband turbine inlet sounds great just like super duper racecar stuff. Now , take that exhaust you welded to the mating vband flange. It is warped as hell. File it down flat, now there's not enough "crimp" in the vband. It is a real thing when you are trying to diagnose problems on the dyno
Yessir...we see this on the daily. It takes somebody that fully understands the application to properly weld/fit exhaust flanges and also compressor v-bands. -reed
@@workturbo I'll take 4 bolt turbine inlet flanges, and slip-fit compressor outlet every day of the year. Any loss in turbine inlet pressure is an evil, non-recoverable loss that wreckes the whole working turbine/compressor relationship
Hi, So I bought a new Cat exhaust housing and Cat reman cartridge for my 1999 3406e 9WR. OEM Garret water cooled 1.19 unit. My original compressor housing fits too tight. No obvious housing damage/distortion. All cleaned and greased for test fit. Won’t drop down past the bump/seal-ring on the cartridge diameter. I need to be able to clock the housing, so dead-blow fit is not cool. I’ve tried heating the housing with the map torch. Still too tight. Cat wants $1200. for a new compressor housing that will probably be the same fit diameter. Thought about maybe lapping compound but reluctant to try it.
Any thoughts or advice?
I have had this happen countless times when rebuilding units. The housing is most likely distorted.
Take the housing to a competent machine shop that will set it up properly. Center off of the compressor wheel bore and square off of the diffuser surface, keep runout below .0005" in each plane.
Put some layout fluid on the receiving ID, and make a skim pass...you should see the distortion very clearly at this point.
From there, test fit the chra, remove only enough to get the two pieces to fit, do not worry about getting the whole surface cleaned up and round...just enough to get it to fit! The O ring will seal it, and you can also put a skim coat of Loctite 515 on the flange for added piece of mind!
hope this helps-Reed
@@workturboWow! Thanks for sharing your experience. Loving your videos! So glad I found the channel. Absolutely the MOST educational O&R information out there.
Thanks for your reply and machining advice. I followed the spirit of your advice and got a good fit today. Clearances look good by eye so far. I’ll gauge it up after fully seating and tightening on the bench. Nuff said. Oh yeah; Cat doesn’t call out an o’ring but the housing has a chamfer for such. I got an assortment of silicone o’ring stock from The O’Ring Store overnight. Made a .063 o’ring lickety-split. I’ll also add some 515 judiciously. Feeling better about the whole thing. Thanks again👍
After welding and then resurfacing turbine inlet v-bands for no leakage, then the loss of clamp, I'm kinda done with vband turbine inlets for street stuff. ANY loss in turbine drive pressure wrecks the whole deal. Give me a 4 bolt turbine inlet flange. A stainless gasket for thin stuff, or no gasket with thick cast flanges
Legend good work. 👍 my borgwarner and wallet thanks you
They could make the band more solid to stop it
Could weld the band but it probably crack
Give me a 4 bolt turbine inlet flange every day vs fighting with vband turbine inlet pressure leaks
ct26b life