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I give props were props are due! Thank you sir!

I think so! Allows us to keep 1 PN for a master backplate...just a simple mill operation and its re sized for a second application. This one PN allows me to adapt to 4 other popular covers we upgrade on a small scale. -Reed

I have always found a sump tank works best to get the oil as air free and collected for the pump's suction side. Keeping the pump primed the best we can anyway. If you are willing to experiment, the T fitting in the line may work in your application. Seems like a simple enough test! -Reed

I would love to discuss options with you. If you are interested, send an email to support@workturbochargers.com and tell me more about your engine and build! -Reed

100% agree!

Many years ago my friend Matt and I did a custom twin turbo kit on a viper...cranked it up, ran great. Shut it off and went inside to grab some food. Came back to 7 qts of oil dripping out of each side pipe. Ooops! Lesson learned! -Reed

It needs to be rated for the flow demand, temparature and also be a low "crack" pressure. I have used products from Eaton, Improved Racing, Vibrant etc with good results. -Reed

I have had this happen countless times when rebuilding units. The housing is most likely distorted. Take the housing to a competent machine shop that will set it up properly. Center off of the compressor wheel bore and square off of the diffuser surface, keep runout below .0005" in each plane. Put some layout fluid on the receiving ID, and make a skim pass...you should see the distortion very clearly at this point. From there, test fit the chra, remove only enough to get the two pieces to fit, do not worry about getting the whole surface cleaned up and round...just enough to get it to fit! The O ring will seal it, and you can also put a skim coat of Loctite 515 on the flange for added piece of mind! hope this helps-Reed

@@workturboWow! Thanks for sharing your experience. Loving your videos! So glad I found the channel. Absolutely the MOST educational O&R information out there. Thanks for your reply and machining advice. I followed the spirit of your advice and got a good fit today. Clearances look good by eye so far. I’ll gauge it up after fully seating and tightening on the bench. Nuff said. Oh yeah; Cat doesn’t call out an o’ring but the housing has a chamfer for such. I got an assortment of silicone o’ring stock from The O’Ring Store overnight. Made a .063 o’ring lickety-split. I’ll also add some 515 judiciously. Feeling better about the whole thing. Thanks again👍

I am using a standard round insert (1/2") toolholder. Available at any good machine supply warehouse. -Reed

@@802Garage it would help out quite a bit with exhaust flow over the standard borg wheel

I appreciate the motivational feedback! I try to provide solid and straightforward answers to my customers questions/problems. Doing a quick video always seems to help the most, plus it gives a little back to the turbo community. Hope all is well "down under!" -Reed

Lots of companies using the same supplier for parts, just re-badging of HPT in this case. The "PTE-esq" looking compressor is most likely being modeled out of the same software as well. We purchase from a supplier who uses this blade design as well...does the job! -Reed

Yes sir, we had a customer with a $1300 Garrett housing sand and grind on his registration flange, ruining the housing. Figured it would be a good topic to cover! -Reed

I have thought about testing them "hot", but in most cases of aluminum housings the "cold" leak will be less due to tighter clearances in the seal area. As the aluminum heats up, the end gaps on the seal rings normally expand a touch. This would be a fairly straightforward test, next time I have one on the bench I will do this...you know, for the sake of learning! -Reed

@@workturbo awesome 😎

Obviously the design has greater blade area, and should perform better IF the engineering is done correctly. Proper engineering is a must for any component, especially a compressor. Look at the evolution of any "same size" turbocharger wheel over the years. The fact that we are seeing gains in flow is testament to this. Personally I have found that proper testing of a blade shape for the given application will always out perform hub thickness reduction applied to older generation wheels. So just changing this attribute with no other consideration will usually net negligible gains. Simply put, applying proper engineering to a hub-less or reduced area hub wheel can provide a flow increase. Is it measurable? Yes. Is it always going to out perform a larger hub compressor? Only if the development time and engineering are in place!-Reed

Next time I get one in the shop, I will do it! -Reed

I tell everybody that anti-seize is your best friend, the good copper infused stuff. Also, if you need to remove the housing after it has been heat cycled a bunch, use a propane torch to heat up the housing. It will make it so much easier to remove! -Reed

I am working on videos showing this just as soon as we can get on the dyno...hoping in the next 4 weeks to cover this in depth with some actual data! -reed

We have a Buick GN with the 9569S that is knocking on 900 whp through a TH400 and a 9". I always try to under rate or "cushion" my power number quotes...its always easier to deal with a customer that is making more power than expected ;) -Reed

I will go down the rabbit hole of compressor maps soon...but the simple truth is any blade count/splitter arrangement can be tailored to perform at any reasonable PR, but like you say...there is no free lunch. Not for Garrett, Borg, Holset or any other manufacturer. You will simply move the numbers around, so choosing based off of your engine's requirement will always be in your best interest. Be ready...its coming as fast as I can wrap up the test and editing. Reed

Yessir...the move over into XRE compressor technology has been a solid move for them HTA/HTZ has long since run its course! The HTA dates back to the very late 90's, being derived off of a K31 borgwarner wheel. It is almost a carbon copy of that technology. Reed

Known Robert for many, many years! Like 26 if my feeble brain is processing it right! Reed

Sorry for the confusing wording...I get a bit excited, plus doing videos in "one take" sometimes I may not finish a whole thought or explanation. Good news, we are about to take my videos to the next level with some real editing and a bit more focus...getting nothing but better content from here on out. Let me clarify. The turbine wheel has a high degree of intake capacity, so it will flow very well, but this does not always correlate into energy being used to actually rotate the assembly. Think of the blade angle and "slip" or "bypass" that takes place before there is enough energy recovery to drive rotation. This is simply high flow, but low energy to drive. Once the exhaust creates enough energy and flow, the wheel will be very efficient and accelerate quickly, providing drive energy with low drive pressure. Hope that makes a bit more sense of my original analysis. FWIW, when applied to the right engine this will be no issue. Thank you for your insight...it will help me with future videos! -Reed

@@workturbo 👍 Do you deal mainly with import( pc, correct term, lol), or deal with real engines, like American V8s, too? hehe Either way, I think the type of fuel would make a big difference, too. Two 78/75s on a 5.3 might sound too big, but use methanol and all is better.

@@funfun8095 I started my career with the Buick GN, shop started in 1997 with that market. I got my foot in the door with SSO (super street outlaw) back in the early 2000's with John Urist, Mike Murillo, Chris Derrick Dan Millen...I am the small shop that ran directly up against PTE and Turbonetics back in then. We ran pretty well in Ultra Street with Mark Rogers, and Haley James...quite a few Drag and drive guys...Rich Guido, Eric Yost, Frank Saponaro and a ton of awesome others. I am a little guy...but try to do big things. Dont get me wrong...we have quite a few fast Import customers also, but my main experience is in the 1800+ HP customer. As time goes by, I will add to this channel and fill in most of this, but I have you covered on just about any platform. Total disclaimer, I learn something new every day, and will be the first to say if I was incorrect if any way possible. If I did not find this still interesting and challenging I would be sitting at the lake fishin :) Reed

@@workturbo Good resume! ;)

Hi, Norb! I would need to see what we could work up for an internal gate to suit the 4.3. The rotor group would be a good match for this application. There is even a possible T3 foot so it would bolt to your existing manifold or headers. I can also upgrade your stock MHI turbo as well :) Drop me an email for details! Hope all is well up in Canada! -Reed

@@workturbo Yes all is well, just really think if its a bolt on the typhoon and syclone owners would definitely buy them! Will email you thanks.

@rpturbo I would love to say that I do not see this often, but the truth is I have this conversation at least weekly with customers, sometimes daily. We just went through this today with a customer who shared with me his timing table. The car made very respectable numbers on the dyno, but none of the driving tune was dialed in at all. Tall deck SBF with only 15-18 degrees at cruising speed. Pair that with his A:F target of 12.4 and the poor turbo was getting cooked running down the highway. Last Friday was a simple 427 SBF with hi-ports. Single 88mm. Total timing above 20 psi was 18 degrees. Car "was out of turbo" according to the tuner at 28 psi and 54 psi of drive pressure. 9 degrees of timing later and 26 psi, we made over 200 more HP. I am not saying every tuner is like this by any stretch, but trying to tell my customers that a "safe" tune is not always "safe" or "fully tuned" is more along the goal of this video. sorry for the long answer, thank you for your comment! Reed

@@workturbo nope, absolutely love the long answer and that cruise timing on that tall deck Ford is absolutely rediculous

Both will be very close in performance, they are some big power makers for their size! -Reed

Not much data that I can accurately spit out of my brain at the moment, but we have a few good sources that have pushed other 64mm units into that range as well. One of the most under rated compressor wheels in the BorgWarner line up is their 64mm SXE, I will see if I can find that data, but we have made well into the 840 AWHP range with that compressor on a 4G63/EVO build a good while back. I am gearing up for some actual dyno testing of various compressors as we speak...I think you are going to enjoy what content is coming! -Reed

It would depend on the engine...and your budget! The 3582R cast wheel ball bearing unit will easily support 500+ whp on most healthy 2.2-4.0L modern engines with good response. Newer G series (G25-550), the Xona XR-5757S and others are a better choice for smaller displacements looking for that power level. Larger engine? For Modular Ford's, 4.8 and 5.3 LS the S366 and S369SXE fill the bill quite nicely without breaking the bank! -Reed

@@workturbo thanks for your response..the engine is a 13B modified it has overlap timing. Are pulsar turbo any good ?

@@juanmangerita Very familiar with your application. We had a very good friend with an FD, very mild street port and it made upper 400 whp on a GT3582 cast wheel unit, IIRC it was a 1.06 T4. We went to a 6766 and made mid 500's without much fuss. This was a street car and boost was kept very conservative. I think the 3582 would have made 500, we just never pushed it to its limit. I have had dealings with pulsar, so far so good once we go through and do our QC. I very rarely use "out of the box" turbochargers from any manufacturer...almost everything we do is custom in some way!-Reed

Thanks again Sir

Turbosmart 5862!!!

Yes sir...if you do not need the flow, clipping has nothing but a negative return. -Reed

Thank you Ryan...I will be putting out content as often as I can. Stay tuned! -Reed

You are welcome Matt! I will be covering some of these topics in more detail soon, stay tuned! -Reed

Most of the time more efficient compressor/turbine wheels will make less noise, the good old 60-1 has great airflow at lower shaft speeds, but it is horribly inefficient...and the T31 hi flow turbine whistles pretty good too...lots of great sounds, just not great efficiency! Reed